I have the camera package which includes the original manual, flash, lenses and filters. Such a great robust unit. The manual even tells you how to do a double exposures and infrared photography and even has a mains power connector for the flash so you dont need batteries. Its a real gem of a collection. Ive even found the correct voltage battery 👌
Thank you David. As I mentioned a couple weeks ago on the first video you did for this camera, I picked one up expecting it to be a sentimental paperweight, as it was my first 35mm slr in 1970. The camera arrived in working order, so I ordered some Ektar 100 and a battery to give it a test run. Alas, like many other cds light meters of the era, this one was DOA. A good excuse to purchase a new light meter. I also have a 16’ pc sync cable coming to use with my Godox AD600 strobe to see what kind of quality I can coax out of this unit. Also coming are the 35 and 95 lenses. They are dirt cheap, so I felt them too good of a bargain to pass up. It’ll be a challenge to see if I can get the most out of the least expensive camera ($25) I’ve ever purchased. Keep the videos coming, always informative.
David - nice video on this camera. I have one that I’ve been shooting for a few months now. The way the focusing distance scale works on these is this: when you mount one of the other lenses, turn the focus ring on the camera to infinity, then line the infinity mark on the front half of the lens to infinity, too. Now, as you turn the focus knob, the white dot will line up with the scale in the front half of the lens and show you the distance. Hope that helps!
I had a Canon EXEE with the 120mm lens and 50mm lens when I was younger, but changed it in for a Canon A1 as it had faster shutter speeds for taking shots of F1 cars in action. I wish I had kept it as it was built like a tank.
Love this video! I was cleaning out the family garage and found this camera, belonged to my dad. I’m going to try to see if I can get a battery and get it to work again!
12:08 I own a Canon EX auto and it has a hot shoe as well as a PC port. I found mine at a antique store and it came with the Original Canon canolite flash which works great!
Awesome video! Just bought a Canon EX AUTO. Where can I get the battery adaptor from? I just bought a PX625A battery and I tried testing the battery and the needle doesn't jump so I'm not sure if the battery doesn't work or the camera has an issue.
Hello David, let me give you a tip, try to use you half 50mm upside down, you will get a great effect and you can still focus. Or you can use in a camera phone and get a wide angle. Cheers
You mean using the lens without a front cell attached? I noticed that still focuses, but it looks like a 35mm AoV in the viewfinder. I did also, just now, on your advice, hold the front 50mm cell backwards to the lens and that is a bizarre effect!
@@DavidHancock without the front cell I never use, but with the 50mm upside down you get the center sharp and the corners stretched, looks like those lens baby with a select focus. But with a lot of vignette.
Ah yes, the 1.35V Mercury batteries that aren't available any more, which makes Ye Olde Nikkormat FTN a "Sunny f/16" manual camera. (It is cheaper than trying to find a Nikkormat FS, though.) Beware of using very old film in these demonstration videos! If/when the film cracks and sheds bits of film, it will drop into the mechanical shutter/mirror mechanisms and lead to a jammed/destroyed camera. Proprietary camera designs are interesting to collectors, but reduce sales in the marketplace. The "which focusing scale do I use?" question reminds me of the "add on auxiliary component lenses" of the Mamiya/Sekor 528TL. Focusing the subject is no problem, but if you have to figure out how far away the subject is to set the correct f/stop for the flash, this can get "very interesting."
I just eyeball the exposures with this camera, Sunny 16, Shaded 8, Indoor 4, etc. Mine doesn't even have a working light meter. Best part about mechanical cameras with batteries only for the meter -- if that part fails the rest works.
These videos are great, learned a lot! I have the 35mm lens coming and am wondering how the focusing works. Both the 50mm and 35mm focus ring need to be lined up or is just the 35mm focus ring used?
@@YosephWondwosen since the camera has party of each lens assembly inside the body, you'd need to remove that and customize a mount adapter for it. The front half of each lens can't focus light without the elements inside the camera.
@@DavidHancock Thanks a lot Dave I really apricate it, Also If in any way or miracle if you could lead me to any tutorial on how to or assemble this adapter it will be very very help full
@@YosephWondwosen I'm not sure if it's ever been dinner or if it's possible. All I can't say is what's needed. An important days point would be the distance from the salvaged lens' housing to the film plane. If it's less than the flame distance of your camera, then the exee lenses won't be able to reach Infinity.
Hi David, great video! My light meter does not work on my Canon EX EE and I was wondering: when using the lenses other than the 50mm, will the aperture reading be correct when using an external light meter? For instance, if I am using the 35mm and my external light meter says that the aperture should be 3.5, would I set the aperture to 3.5 or does the 1.8 equal 3.5? And is there some math involved when using other lenses to figure out the correct aperture you should be using? Thanks!!
Good question. You would simply set the aperture to the number you need. It's been some years since I sold this camera, but IIRC if you set the aperture to faster than f/3.5 with the 35mm lens then the aperture is still set to 3.5.
Hi! I just found this camera, and wonder if it is possible to use it without the battery please? I don't have much money to spend into adaptors or original mercury batteries haha
Bonjour, sur un Canon ex, je souhaiterais nettoyer le miroir et le dépoli. J’ai donc dévissé l’objectif. Mais je n’ai toujours pas accès à l’intérieur. Pour ce faire il faudrait que je désolidarise le porte objectif du boîtier. Comment faire ? Merci
Bonjour et bonne question. Cela nécessite un démontage important de la caméra. Je vérifierais auprès de la chaîne Fix Old Cameras et verrais s'il a des conseils.
Has anyone ever connected their Ex lens to a digital dslr? I would like to locate an adaptor to put my 1:45 on my rebel but I am not sure what kind of mount to use because I’m pretty sure these camera had half of the lens mechanism built into the body of the camera.
The cameras had half the lens in the body, yes. There have not been any adapters made for these lenses and they cannot focus light properly without the rear cell that's in the camera.
According to the manual, in the EE mode, I don't know that it actually points to the aperture it's going to use, rather an indicator between the over and under-exposure warning marks, because it doesn't specify that is what it's doing. is it allowing you to adjust the shutter speed until the indicator moves to the proper exposure range? The upper splitted part of the under-exposure warning mark applies only to the F3.5 lenses. Is the printed aperture in the viewfinder purely for when using manual selection? Otherwise, why would there be over and under-exposure warning marks if it just tells you which aperture it's going to use? For example, if the indicator was pointing to 1.8 to obtain a correct exposure, that would be right on the verge of being in the "under exposure" warning mark? Unless if using a shutter speed too fast, unable to open wider than 1.8 would result in an under exposed image. Though according the the "exposure indicator" as noted in the manual, 5.6-8 would always be the ideal exposure being in the middle, regardless of ASA and Shutter speed.. I really wish the manual would clarify this! :(
You could be correct. I found the manual frustratingly hard to follow, too, and not having one (and I had THREE of these!) with a working meter made it really hard to discern the exact behavior.
My frame count window is not moving past S. Everything else is working just as it should, loaded the film and followed your steps in the video. I don’t want to ruin my film and open it back up, is my counter just broken or is my film not being loaded properly?
For your film loading, if the film rewind knob rotates opposite the direction of the arrow on it when you advance the film, then your film is loaded correctly.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much for the quick answer! It does spin just as you said. This is my first SLR and I got a trip planned in two days so I wanted to make sure I had it ready by then. Your video was super informative and much appreciated by somebody that’s trying to learn more about film photography and cameras. Thanks for replying to my other comment aswell
A curious camera indeed! Was gifted one and am trying to make use of it. The 50 1.8 came default and is nice, meters well and seems accurate. I also picked up the 90mm 3.5 - The thing is, I shift the ASA dial (using 400 speed film) so 400 over the 3.5 mark for the different lens, however it seems to kill the metering range? The light meter drops to the bottom red and doesnt move at speeds below 1/125. Hmm! Any ideas? Has this put the meter out of it's range as if it was 800+ speed film over the 1.8 and it's reading that. Hope that makes sense! I feel like I ask camera questions every other day! Haha thanks David :)
:D I am not sure why the camera is behaving like that. Since mine had a dead meter cell, I don't have a good handle on how to troubleshoot metering issues.
@@DavidHancock I actually suspect battery has or is going flat, the Wein Cells don't last long at all! Have ordered the voltage converter from Japan (sr43 1.55 v-> px625 1.35 v) so the days of wein cells will be over! Here's hoping :)
That's more a film- or setting-dependent decision than lens-dependent. In general, films in the 50-200 range will work better with this camera outside because of the 1/500th fastest shutter speed.
You'll want a 675-type battery and a simple brass adapter (check this video's discussion on batteries for more info.) Then with that installed you can verify it against the Sunny 16 rule, which is at f/16 the shutter speed and ISO (marked ASA on this camera) should be the same. So set the film speed to 250 ASA, shutter to 1/250, and aperture to f/16 and the meter reading should be within a stop of accurate. To check auto exposure mode, set the aperture to auto and the reading should be f/16-ish with the other settings the same. Be sure to test this outside with the sun to your back on a sunny day.
We used these in photography class in 95/96 I was on yearbook We'd load like 50 pics b/w mine got stuck at about 37 it was end if yr teacher said I could have it they were upgrading to digital. Here I am found it about a week ago today took it into a friend's "dark room" unloaded it and wound the film back into the cannister. What's the odds my pics are still good?
Depends on the film, but it's not uncommon for film much older than 30 years to be recoverable. About eight years ago I developed some film taken in the 60s. Images were great.
@@DavidHancock sweet any photo development place or should i send it out? Also do you have a video on how to clean the prism? When you look through It has spots that look like spider droppings lens is clean and viewfinder also.
@@manuelferreira4345 For developing, I like Old School Photo Lab in New Hampshire. There are other options that are also good. For the spots, if they're outside of the viewfinder, I have a few videos on how to clean different parts of cameras. If they're inside the viewfinder assembly, that requires a disassembly to clean and a professional service would be your best bet.
@@DavidHancock thanks I watched the clean up ones it seems that its just the view finder so I'll live with it for now. Our local camera shop acually told me it's not worth the time. The plan is I'll watch a few more videos a few times and sooner or later go for it.
Hi, very good video, i have this camera (its my dads old camera) but with a 95mm lens. Apparently that one is not that usual and to be honest i dont really understand how to shot with it! :/
I hope that this video showed you the basics of shooting with the camera. The 95mm lens is a good portrait lens. So find some people you know, or don't know, and see how it works for portraits.
i found my grandparents old one (great condition because of my grandpa) but i would like to know what kind of battery substitute i can use for it? (sorry my hearing is bad and i wasn't able to catch what kind was mentioned i did hear that the mercury batteries are no longer made, the substitute one was jumbled for my hearing)
That would require a professional repair. That issues indicates a problem with the electronics or metering cells. It's very common and I've never come across an EE without that issue.
hello, i just bought this camera¡ its my first analogic camera and i think i the light meter doesnt work right, i mean in auto mode it seems to work just fine but when i choose the aperture manually the needle just tell me what my aperture is, it doesent seem to be metering anything, any idea what it could be? thank you
@@p.villaruel7006 Nope. As long as you dial in the correct settings the camera will take a proper photo. The light meter only helps ensure that you do that.
Further to the battery adapters (voltage reducing), apparently many do nothing at all. Be aware even though they sell for $30+ they may simply be a battery size reducer and do nothing towards reducing voltage. I use 675 hearing aid batteries from Costco (card of 48 for next to nothing) and adapters from www.paulbg.com/Nikon_F_meter_batteries.htm Please note I have no affiliation what so ever with this web site. I bought a pair of his adapters and really like them. In my Gossen Lunasix # meter I can get over 6 month out of a pair of batteries.
Got it now. And yes, I know of those. I have a few. My results are mixed. With some makes of button cell they fit fine, with others they're too loose or won't fit on at all. But for use with the same make of cell, they're a good option.
@@DavidHancock I have only used them with the Costco Kirkland batteries. Here in Canada I get 48 for about $12.50 or so. They fit quite tight on the Kirkland cells. Good to know the other cells may or may not fit if Costco stops offering the Kirkland cells in 675 size.
I have the camera package which includes the original manual, flash, lenses and filters. Such a great robust unit. The manual even tells you how to do a double exposures and infrared photography and even has a mains power connector for the flash so you dont need batteries.
Its a real gem of a collection.
Ive even found the correct voltage battery 👌
Nice!
thank you so much for the 2 videos, its soo hard to find content on the canon ex ee
Thank you!
Thank you David.
As I mentioned a couple weeks ago on the first video you did for this camera, I picked one up expecting it to be a sentimental paperweight, as it was my first 35mm slr in 1970. The camera arrived in working order, so I ordered some Ektar 100 and a battery to give it a test run. Alas, like many other cds light meters of the era, this one was DOA. A good excuse to purchase a new light meter. I also have a 16’ pc sync cable coming to use with my Godox AD600 strobe to see what kind of quality I can coax out of this unit.
Also coming are the 35 and 95 lenses. They are dirt cheap, so I felt them too good of a bargain to pass up.
It’ll be a challenge to see if I can get the most out of the least expensive camera ($25) I’ve ever purchased.
Keep the videos coming, always informative.
Fantastic! I lucked into a complete lens set for this and the teles are pretty nice. The 95 is a really interesting focal length to use.
David - nice video on this camera. I have one that I’ve been shooting for a few months now. The way the focusing distance scale works on these is this: when you mount one of the other lenses, turn the focus ring on the camera to infinity, then line the infinity mark on the front half of the lens to infinity, too. Now, as you turn the focus knob, the white dot will line up with the scale in the front half of the lens and show you the distance. Hope that helps!
Thank you, Mike, and that does help!
I had a Canon EXEE with the 120mm lens and 50mm lens when I was younger, but changed it in for a Canon A1 as it had faster shutter speeds for taking shots of F1 cars in action. I wish I had kept it as it was built like a tank.
The EXEE had great build quality. The A-1 is no slouch, either, though.
@@DavidHancock Just purchased one from Japan, with all 4 lenses...
@@andrewrfpi Nice!
Love this video! I was cleaning out the family garage and found this camera, belonged to my dad. I’m going to try to see if I can get a battery and get it to work again!
Nice!
12:08 I own a Canon EX auto and it has a hot shoe as well as a PC port. I found mine at a antique store and it came with the Original Canon canolite flash which works great!
Nice!
Do you need a battery to open the film area
Nope
Awesome video! Just bought a Canon EX AUTO. Where can I get the battery adaptor from? I just bought a PX625A battery and I tried testing the battery and the needle doesn't jump so I'm not sure if the battery doesn't work or the camera has an issue.
Thank you! For the adapter, here is an affiliate link for an eBay search: bit.ly/YTDH_MR9
Hello David, let me give you a tip, try to use you half 50mm upside down, you will get a great effect and you can still focus. Or you can use in a camera phone and get a wide angle. Cheers
You mean using the lens without a front cell attached? I noticed that still focuses, but it looks like a 35mm AoV in the viewfinder. I did also, just now, on your advice, hold the front 50mm cell backwards to the lens and that is a bizarre effect!
@@DavidHancock without the front cell I never use, but with the 50mm upside down you get the center sharp and the corners stretched, looks like those lens baby with a select focus. But with a lot of vignette.
Ah yes, the 1.35V Mercury batteries that aren't available any more, which makes Ye Olde Nikkormat FTN a "Sunny f/16" manual camera. (It is cheaper than trying to find a Nikkormat FS, though.) Beware of using very old film in these demonstration videos! If/when the film cracks and sheds bits of film, it will drop into the mechanical shutter/mirror mechanisms and lead to a jammed/destroyed camera. Proprietary camera designs are interesting to collectors, but reduce sales in the marketplace.
The "which focusing scale do I use?" question reminds me of the "add on auxiliary component lenses" of the Mamiya/Sekor 528TL. Focusing the subject is no problem, but if you have to figure out how far away the subject is to set the correct f/stop for the flash, this can get "very interesting."
I just eyeball the exposures with this camera, Sunny 16, Shaded 8, Indoor 4, etc. Mine doesn't even have a working light meter. Best part about mechanical cameras with batteries only for the meter -- if that part fails the rest works.
These videos are great, learned a lot! I have the 35mm lens coming and am wondering how the focusing works. Both the 50mm and 35mm focus ring need to be lined up or is just the 35mm focus ring used?
Thank you! For focus, it depends on your lens. The easiest way is to look through the viewfinder and just adjust the focus until you're happy.
Thanks for the video it really helped me out, and I have a quation for this EX lenses do they have adaptors for like Sony mirror less cameras?
Thank you and no they do not. There lens inside the camera makes adapters tricky at best. I suppose one could be made from a parts camera.
@@DavidHancock as in like using the cameras focuse ring apart from the body by adjesting or custemising it to be as an adaptor for the sony?
@@YosephWondwosen since the camera has party of each lens assembly inside the body, you'd need to remove that and customize a mount adapter for it. The front half of each lens can't focus light without the elements inside the camera.
@@DavidHancock Thanks a lot Dave I really apricate it, Also If in any way or miracle if you could lead me to any tutorial on how to or assemble this adapter it will be very very help full
@@YosephWondwosen I'm not sure if it's ever been dinner or if it's possible. All I can't say is what's needed. An important days point would be the distance from the salvaged lens' housing to the film plane. If it's less than the flame distance of your camera, then the exee lenses won't be able to reach Infinity.
Hi David, great video! My light meter does not work on my Canon EX EE and I was wondering: when using the lenses other than the 50mm, will the aperture reading be correct when using an external light meter? For instance, if I am using the 35mm and my external light meter says that the aperture should be 3.5, would I set the aperture to 3.5 or does the 1.8 equal 3.5? And is there some math involved when using other lenses to figure out the correct aperture you should be using? Thanks!!
Good question. You would simply set the aperture to the number you need. It's been some years since I sold this camera, but IIRC if you set the aperture to faster than f/3.5 with the 35mm lens then the aperture is still set to 3.5.
@@DavidHancock Awesome, thanks so much!!
Hi! I just found this camera, and wonder if it is possible to use it without the battery please? I don't have much money to spend into adaptors or original mercury batteries haha
That should be detailed in the battery section of this video. I think I specifically cover what the battery does and does not power.
Bonjour, sur un Canon ex, je souhaiterais nettoyer le miroir et le dépoli. J’ai donc dévissé l’objectif. Mais je n’ai toujours pas accès à l’intérieur. Pour ce faire il faudrait que je désolidarise le porte objectif du boîtier. Comment faire ? Merci
Bonjour et bonne question. Cela nécessite un démontage important de la caméra. Je vérifierais auprès de la chaîne Fix Old Cameras et verrais s'il a des conseils.
Has anyone ever connected their Ex lens to a digital dslr? I would like to locate an adaptor to put my 1:45 on my rebel but I am not sure what kind of mount to use because I’m pretty sure these camera had half of the lens mechanism built into the body of the camera.
1 : 35 125mm (not a time code)
The cameras had half the lens in the body, yes. There have not been any adapters made for these lenses and they cannot focus light properly without the rear cell that's in the camera.
According to the manual, in the EE mode, I don't know that it actually points to the aperture it's going to use, rather an indicator between the over and under-exposure warning marks, because it doesn't specify that is what it's doing.
is it allowing you to adjust the shutter speed until the indicator moves to the proper exposure range?
The upper splitted part of the under-exposure warning mark applies only to the F3.5 lenses.
Is the printed aperture in the viewfinder purely for when using manual selection?
Otherwise, why would there be over and under-exposure warning marks if it just tells you which aperture it's going to use?
For example, if the indicator was pointing to 1.8 to obtain a correct exposure, that would be right on the verge of being in the "under exposure" warning mark?
Unless if using a shutter speed too fast, unable to open wider than 1.8 would result in an under exposed image.
Though according the the "exposure indicator" as noted in the manual, 5.6-8 would always be the ideal exposure being in the middle, regardless of ASA and Shutter speed..
I really wish the manual would clarify this! :(
You could be correct. I found the manual frustratingly hard to follow, too, and not having one (and I had THREE of these!) with a working meter made it really hard to discern the exact behavior.
I learned a lot here, thanks
Thank you!
My frame count window is not moving past S. Everything else is working just as it should, loaded the film and followed your steps in the video. I don’t want to ruin my film and open it back up, is my counter just broken or is my film not being loaded properly?
For your film loading, if the film rewind knob rotates opposite the direction of the arrow on it when you advance the film, then your film is loaded correctly.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much for the quick answer! It does spin just as you said. This is my first SLR and I got a trip planned in two days so I wanted to make sure I had it ready by then. Your video was super informative and much appreciated by somebody that’s trying to learn more about film photography and cameras. Thanks for replying to my other comment aswell
A curious camera indeed! Was gifted one and am trying to make use of it.
The 50 1.8 came default and is nice, meters well and seems accurate.
I also picked up the 90mm 3.5 - The thing is, I shift the ASA dial (using 400 speed film) so 400 over the 3.5 mark for the different lens, however it seems to kill the metering range?
The light meter drops to the bottom red and doesnt move at speeds below 1/125. Hmm!
Any ideas?
Has this put the meter out of it's range as if it was 800+ speed film over the 1.8 and it's reading that.
Hope that makes sense!
I feel like I ask camera questions every other day! Haha thanks David :)
:D
I am not sure why the camera is behaving like that. Since mine had a dead meter cell, I don't have a good handle on how to troubleshoot metering issues.
@@DavidHancock I actually suspect battery has or is going flat, the Wein Cells don't last long at all!
Have ordered the voltage converter from Japan (sr43 1.55 v-> px625 1.35 v) so the days of wein cells will be over! Here's hoping :)
Hi David, I was just wondering what you think the recommended iso and exposure is for the 50mm lens
That's more a film- or setting-dependent decision than lens-dependent. In general, films in the 50-200 range will work better with this camera outside because of the 1/500th fastest shutter speed.
@@DavidHancock I have a case of 400 film in mine, what would you recommend would be the best. or does that still depend on setting?
@@liamsmith2573 The actual settings will be based on available light. Does your camera's light meter work?
@@DavidHancock how am I able to check, I’m sure it does because the camera is in very very good Nick
You'll want a 675-type battery and a simple brass adapter (check this video's discussion on batteries for more info.) Then with that installed you can verify it against the Sunny 16 rule, which is at f/16 the shutter speed and ISO (marked ASA on this camera) should be the same. So set the film speed to 250 ASA, shutter to 1/250, and aperture to f/16 and the meter reading should be within a stop of accurate. To check auto exposure mode, set the aperture to auto and the reading should be f/16-ish with the other settings the same. Be sure to test this outside with the sun to your back on a sunny day.
What about hearing aid 1.4V batteries? I know they may not fit, but they can be adapted. Do you think a 1.4V battery would affect the metering?
I think they lack the amperage to power the old light meters.
We used these in photography class in 95/96 I was on yearbook We'd load like 50 pics b/w mine got stuck at about 37 it was end if yr teacher said I could have it they were upgrading to digital. Here I am found it about a week ago today took it into a friend's "dark room" unloaded it and wound the film back into the cannister. What's the odds my pics are still good?
Depends on the film, but it's not uncommon for film much older than 30 years to be recoverable. About eight years ago I developed some film taken in the 60s. Images were great.
@@DavidHancock sweet any photo development place or should i send it out? Also do you have a video on how to clean the prism? When you look through It has spots that look like spider droppings lens is clean and viewfinder also.
@@manuelferreira4345 For developing, I like Old School Photo Lab in New Hampshire. There are other options that are also good. For the spots, if they're outside of the viewfinder, I have a few videos on how to clean different parts of cameras. If they're inside the viewfinder assembly, that requires a disassembly to clean and a professional service would be your best bet.
@@DavidHancock thanks I watched the clean up ones it seems that its just the view finder so I'll live with it for now. Our local camera shop acually told me it's not worth the time. The plan is I'll watch a few more videos a few times and sooner or later go for it.
nice content
Thank you!
How to focus on this camera? Thank you!
Just turn the focusing ring and look through the viewfinder to see when the intended subject is in focus.
How would you set this camera if your pictures are all grainy/black and green
What kind of film are you using?
@@DavidHancock 35m
I mean what brand and type and also is it good film or expired?
@@DavidHancock Kodak gold 200
It’s always brand new bought film
can we use this lenses for this days dslr's?...does they have a mount?...if they do pls tell where can i get one?
You can use them on a mirrorless camera like a Sony or Fuji with and adapter. I don't think and DSLRs exist that can mount these.
Hi, very good video, i have this camera (its my dads old camera) but with a 95mm lens. Apparently that one is not that usual and to be honest i dont really understand how to shot with it! :/
I hope that this video showed you the basics of shooting with the camera. The 95mm lens is a good portrait lens. So find some people you know, or don't know, and see how it works for portraits.
What battery is needed?
@@DominiqueValadez there's a whole section in this video dedicated to battery selection.
i found my grandparents old one (great condition because of my grandpa)
but i would like to know what kind of battery substitute i can use for it?
(sorry my hearing is bad and i wasn't able to catch what kind was mentioned i did hear that the mercury batteries are no longer made, the substitute one was jumbled for my hearing)
Nice! I always forget the exact model of the modern batteries. But, an MR9 adapter and 357-size battery will work well.
@@DavidHancock Thank you so much!!! again I'm sorry for making you repeat yourself
if youre not using a lense on this camera what iso should the camera be set to?
I assume 1.8, but the images without a front element are not going to be great. They could create an interesting effect, however.
@@DavidHancock thank you!
Got mine but my EE mode doesn’t work the meter doesn’t move ? How can i fix this?
That would require a professional repair. That issues indicates a problem with the electronics or metering cells. It's very common and I've never come across an EE without that issue.
hello, i just bought this camera¡ its my first analogic camera and i think i the light meter doesnt work right, i mean in auto mode it seems to work just fine but when i choose the aperture manually the needle just tell me what my aperture is, it doesent seem to be metering anything, any idea what it could be? thank you
That sounds correct.
Does it need a battery?
Only for the light meter.
@@DavidHancock oh so i dont need battery to take a photo to the film???
@@p.villaruel7006 Nope. As long as you dial in the correct settings the camera will take a proper photo. The light meter only helps ensure that you do that.
@@DavidHancock thank you so much! Its really hard to find a battery for the canon ex ee
Further to the battery adapters (voltage reducing), apparently many do nothing at all. Be aware even though they sell for $30+ they may simply be a battery size reducer and do nothing towards reducing voltage. I use 675 hearing aid batteries from Costco (card of 48 for next to nothing) and adapters from www.paulbg.com/Nikon_F_meter_batteries.htm Please note I have no affiliation what so ever with this web site. I bought a pair of his adapters and really like them. In my Gossen Lunasix # meter I can get over 6 month out of a pair of batteries.
Thank you, but the link appears to be dead.
@@DavidHancock Try it now. It did not like being in parentheses
Got it now. And yes, I know of those. I have a few. My results are mixed. With some makes of button cell they fit fine, with others they're too loose or won't fit on at all. But for use with the same make of cell, they're a good option.
@@DavidHancock I have only used them with the Costco Kirkland batteries. Here in Canada I get 48 for about $12.50 or so. They fit quite tight on the Kirkland cells. Good to know the other cells may or may not fit if Costco stops offering the Kirkland cells in 675 size.
Hi, did the 1.4 V hearing aid battery worked good with the lightmeter? I have been told that the different voltage may affect its function.