Ep: 3 - Print Your Own Flight Simulator Cockpit
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Yes!! It is possible to print a quality cockpit for your flight simulator at home!!
Let me Show you how easy it really is!!!
Download your F/A-18 Takeoff Panel Now!
cults3d.com/en...
✏️ Fusion 360: www.autodesk.c...
- Download Free Trial / Personal Use
🕹 Digital Combat Simulator: www.digitalcom...
- Free Trails on most aircraft!
🎶 Music: www.epidemicso...
Instagram: / ahornetsnest
Facebook: / ahornetsnest
Thanks mate! Your videos are very inspiring! I was stuck finding a way for backlighting a 3D printed: I tried using black filament for the structure but leaving empty where texts and symbols are and then filling with other white/translucent material (an hot glue?). Another option is printing a very very thin black mask with text and symbols empty to glue on top of the white/translucent panel just to avoid light to pass through but with a good touch feeling... first way too complicated, the second one to be tested soon, but both bonded to the printer/nozzle precision for the details.. never thought about a simple printed white paper: thinking easy is always THE way! Thank you again!
Thank you so much mate!! I really appreciate the kind words and the feed back! Glad to have you here :) send me a DM on Instagram if you try this method and it works for you!!
Tip - use a good amount of glue, I found the sticker sheet was nice and convenient but didn’t stick long term as well as glue
And spray and matte clear coat on them :) it saves the ink from being smudged when you use it often :D
Hi, there's something wrong with bell notification? Luckily I got the video link following you on Facebook cause no notification comes from RUclips 🤷🏻♂️
As always, wonderful content video! 👍🏻
Hey mate! Thanks for the reply! I was silly and didn’t press save when I made it “public” - so it stayed as “unlisted” so the link would have worked but no bell :( thanks for letting me know
If you make a panel from scratch, how do you get the text to show up white? I cannot for the life of me change the text color
Hey mate! So if I’m making it from scratch - in fusion I will make the body white, and make the faces black - then extrude/cut 0.05mm into the surface to “remove” the black face and show white.
If I’m printing - I will use a sticker sheet, you can in some slicers write some lines to the GCode to stop printing at the text layers, change to white filament and resume printing (I don’t usually 3D my panels)
My usual method is to laser engrave paint off painted acrylic sheets 🫡
Fantastic work mate. Just curious where you got the model of the panel from or was it self-made? I'd love to try 3D printing it with my multicolor printer. Keep up the great work, the production quality is amazing.
Hey mate!! Thanks so much for the comment 😀
That model is a extract from my full FA-18 sim that I’m designing myself 😁
Expand the description of the video and you’ll see a link there to cults3D.com - and you can go download the package for this episode as well as the full design package for Episode 1 and 2!
If you do get around to printing it - send me a DM on Instagram or Facebook @ahornetsnest … I’d love to see how it turned out 🙌🏻🙌🏻
See you next video!
You could print both sides of the paper to get the black parts black.
But as much as I apprechiate your tutorial, it's a very time consuming way.
Another way to get the white writings done, would be to engrave them. After that put a very thin layer of black paint onto a flat surface on your table an press the panel (with the engraved side down) on it.
You will get a nearly perfect neat surface. You my have to repeat that step.
But nevertheless great tutorial.
From my experience I would recommend to first build/buy all panels to get them fitted together all at once.
And I highly recommend the backlit way from the beginning,
else you will bite your own butt...
Because your pit will never be finished... ;-)
Hey mate! Thanks for the reply! I tried the double sided print… works reasonably okay, but massive use of ink for not much extra benefit
Yeah this tutorial was to show people that you don’t need to spend the money on an engraver/laser to get into the hobby… you can do it on a budget
But saying that doing it this way did make me appreciate how nice my laser cutter is and how much time I save on it
Haha exactly, the pit is never finished :) if there is ever a question to backlight - the answer is always yes 😂
@@aHornetsNest
If our wifes sell our cockpits to the price we told them... good night and ouch!
;-)
Another possibility may be to get the papers printed in a copy-shop with professional laser printers...
Hahaha … cockpit cost $100 right? 😂
Yeah that’s not a bad way, still cheaper than a laser cutter ✌🏻
I have turned the other way when it comes to 3D Printing - your clarity and little know how's have totally won me. I have a lot of time and little money........ Good onya mate!
Thank you!! 🫡
hi! congrats for your outstanding job! I would like to ask you: how do you make the knobs?
Hey there! Thank you!!
I use transparent resin - and 3D print the knobs if I want them backlightable - otherwise I just use grey
And then k buy all the switches from AliExpress
@@aHornetsNest thank you for your feedback! I am trying to build an F-16 cockpit, I was thinking to try with filament 3d printing (trying to save costs) but would probably have a terrible outcome...what do you think!
Filament printing would work if you were flying VR - where you are not looking at them
If you didn’t want to buy a resin printer, have a look at our sponsors PCBWay and they can print for you - for way less then the cost of a printer
pcbway.com/g/6CU8SX
Use this link for a little discount on your first order! 😊
Thanks a lot. Interesting approach. Keep them coming!!
Thank you! Yeah definitely not my usual approach to panels - but not a bad way to do it if you’re on a budget :)
Hello
Would you be willing to make the other panels of the F-18 available in 2D & 3D for Fusion 360 in Cults for a fee?
The problem that a lot of people seem to have is the fact that they
1. I don't know enough about fusion 360!
2. You can create it much faster and then make it available as a download...
That would be a nice gesture from you!!
Hey there! I will upload to cults files I use with the tutorials so people can follow along - if you want a full Hornet pit now - definitely go look at Open Hornet there work is incredible 😃😃
Amazing channel! Instant folllow from me.
What kind of 3D printer are you using?
Thank you!! I am using the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro as my primary printer
And then I’ve got a Ender 3 V2 as a support printer - but purely based off how fast the N4 Pro prints, I rarely use it these days
Could you also show us the laser cut version? I have a k40 and would love to know how you got the multi color edit: nvm i missed video 2!
What is the type of filament you used to back light better.... Do you have a link of what the filiment is
G’day mate! The filament I fount best to pass through the back light is luminescent green from eSun
If you’re going to follow this method I do recommend using extra adhesive as be luminescent filament is quite course
Here is a link esun3dstore.com/products/esun-luminous-pla-1-75mm-3d-filament-1kg?variant=42987305795799#!
Awesome tutorials...only wish they would come out sooner. I know it must take a lot of work preparing the videos. Any chance that you will release the Fusion360 files as you complete the panels?
Thanks mate!! I really appreciate it
Once I know all the panels work properly I’ll look at releasing them 🙏🙌🏻
... would be keen to see you show the 3 layers you laser cut... showing how it comes together layered.
busy watching the "cheap" version atm as I currently only have a Ender 5 Pro. ;)
Ep.2 has the assembly of the laser cut F-5 armament panel 😃
Did you design all the panels or did you get them from somewhere?
Hey there! I design my own panels but there are groups out there that are working on publicly available Hornet sims that will release soon such as Open Hornet - I think they’re pretty close to releasing their beta version
This is super cool this will help me out alot with my first cockpit!
🫡🫡🫡
what about using brass inserts on the nut part?! it's just a few extra but more neat product (p.s.: I do enjoy watching your work keep up the awesomeness!)
100% you can :) that is an awesome idea! Especially with the 3D printed panels
Usually I make mine out of acrylic so the thought of using a heat insert inside the base panel never even crossed my mind 😅
Thanks for the comment!
This is a really cool DIY series.
Hats off to you for your clear and easy to follow presentation and editing style!
RE: paper print panels. Is it an idea to use a light spray of (semi-gloss) clear coat on the paper to both protect the print better and to let it pop a bit more?
Perhaps laminating the print outs using a desk use laminator might also be an option?..
Thanks mate! You can definitely add a clear coat to the panels to give them a bit of durability
And it’ll also make the black look real nice
I never thought about laminating - that’s a pretty cool idea
Super 👍 Thanks
Thank you!!
Awesome tutorial, and very helpful. This helps me get a first version of some panels in, with fancier versions for the future.
I do have a question, and maybe it’s something for a future tutorial: how do you design the graphics of the front panel, with all their colours? I’m able to create the shapes of the lines, circles, etc, but I have no idea how to give them colours. Could you explain that one?
Hey mate :) Episode 1 has that in there 😃
@@aHornetsNest yes it was. Took me some time to figure it out, and still have done inconsistent behaviour (like, sometimes the face didn’t get coloured in and then suddenly it is there)
Mmm yeah fusion sometimes loses its mind when it comes to appearance- it’s when it’s overworking and it sheds that part first
When I get appearance glitching - instead of re applying the colour, I just save and restart the program - 90% of the time this fixes any issues
@@aHornetsNestanother question for you: what printer do you use? I need to translate the 3D print settings in the file you distributed to my bambu labs A1. If the included files were 3mf instead of stl, I could probably have copied over the settings.
Hey mate, main printer is the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro … and then sometimes I use the Ender 3 v2 as a backup 😊
I don’t add to much printer profiling, just because everyone’s printers are different - and everyone knows their settings best :) but in the folder their should be a basic print guide for wall count and infil etc
15:43 or you could use these sheets and then cut the area you want light to pass by a cricut machine.
am going to try it and post the result. someone please remind me
You definitely could!
update: not worth it the results kinda shit so gonna try to paint it then laser engrave it with 10w laser and see
@@95BLUERAY thanks for the update? Which method did you use? The Cricut?
@@aHornetsNest yeah i have used a vinyl and cut it by the cricut. the results are bad tbh. if you want a picture of the results i will send you
@@95BLUERAY for sure mate! Send it to the Instagram or Facebook @ahornetsnest :) what vinyl did you use?
Really cool! I'm starting to build a P51 cockpit, even this video not being related to the same plane, the overall idea/process will help me a lot. Thanks!!
Awesome!! If I’m ever in a WW2 server I love flying the P-51!
Any questions during the build process just let me know :)
@@aHornetsNest Sure, thanks and keep up with the great work!
@@Jambock86 thankyou!
I’m a bit confused at 6:20 when you talk about top and bottom layers (x3). If the layer height is .2 mm and 3 layers bottom (.6mm) plus 3 layers top (.6mm) it’s only 1.2 mm thick? It looks much thicker than that in your video. How does it get to 5mm? Also - isnt it supposed to be a SOLID full filled 5mm thick piece? Why is there such a low infill number? Sorry if these 3d printer questions are probably pretty basic to experienced 3d printers, but I have no experience with them at all yet. In fact I am trying to use this video to determine if I want to build the panels with a 3-D printer or a laser cutter/engraver, and will determine which type to buy. So I just want to make sure that it is in fact printing a solid 5 mm piece of plastic that will hold switches securely enough when you activate them. I understand your example panel is to be mounted on a vertical surface and won’t be loadbearing. But the majority of the panels on the left and right consul will be horizontal and hold switches and rotaries that you will be pushing on frequently. That is why I’m wondering about the infill part. Can I print a solid 5 mm thick piece using the 3-D printer? And what kind of filament would be best for that? I believe using the Cricut for the negative text cutout, placed over a white or opaque acrylic would be a great solution, if in fact, you can still backlight through 5 mm of opaque plastic. All of these are unknown to me.
Hey there! Excellent question and thanks for asking 😃 you’re correct with the 3 X top and bottom, they equate to 1.2mm total
Slicers register the layers as Bottom Layers - Body/Build layers - Top layers
The top and bottom layers in the slicer just tell the printer to print the first 3 layers solid, and the last 3 layers solid - the remaining model is made up of walls and infil
I use such a low infil to allow back light to pass through the panels 😃 you can definitely increase the infil if you didn’t want to backlight the system
At 15% infil, these panels were perfectly strong to hold and house switches, but if you did want a little more assurance, I found 25% was more than enough… (if you went solid, you’d waste filament for no added structural benefit)
I use PLA for this, because it’s cheap and easy to work with - but PETG is also a great option
Hope this helps, any other questions always feel free to ask 😃
Thanks for the quick reply. Explains most of my question, but at 1:40 you say that - unlike how you normally make panels with a 2mm and 3mm sheet (I assume this is when you are using laser engraving process) - this time you are 3d printing it as one 5mm thick piece. Yet at 14:00 we see there are two panels ? Now do they both COMBINED make the 5mm? Or are they each 5mm? It looks about the same thickness as the laser engraved version when you lay them both side by side. I thought the point of 3d printing it was to just make it as one piece? Sorry…still a bit fuzzy on this
@@checksixivan4921 hey mate
So the Takeoff panel in the Hornet is very similar to the side console panels
It has a base plate (3mm thick) which the toggle switches secure to - then the front plate is 5mm total thickness (if I were laser cutting the front plate would be made up to a 3mm diffuser panel and a 2mm text panel - Episode 1 & 2 show my design phase and build of a panel)
The 3D printing combines the text panel and diffuser into 1 structure - and that gets fastened to the base plate with M3 screws/bolts
The base plate is then attached to the vertical cockpit structure with M4 hardware
The total panel structure equates to 8mm or 5/16in which is fairly close to most OEM panels :)
I also like your edit with the cricut and negative texting the graphics
Thanks Scott - grateful that you always take the time to reply to everyone and help us with all our questions! 👍👍
@@checksixivan4921 no worries mate :) my pleasure