I’m passionate about helping the 4wd community and I'm developing an online course so i can help as many people as I can to get out there and wheel well on their 4wd adventures. To register your interest and for free and exclusive training videos visit madmatt4wd.com.au/register
I stick in high range when traveling 20 or more miles per hour, dropping into low when I hit an obstacle that needs lower speeds. Also use low range on steep, loose trails. I tend to prefer being in low range and taking it slow.
One knows when people actually walk the talk. I've seen no one talk in such a confident way and with live demonstration too 😂 You have a new sub mate! Can't wait for that course. Cheers!
@@williamh2294 Although I thought it didn't make sense, I thought that's how the saying went lol English isn't my first language, so I'm always learning... thanks for pointing that out!
took a class with an i4wdta certified teacher and he said the same thing. on a lot of the trails here you’re not going fast so just keep it in low range so you’re ready for any obstacles. even on easy terrain where you don’t need the extra torque, if you’re still moving slow, keep it in low.
A fine explanation - With standard 3:55 gears, larger tires and a modest 3" lift, I go into 4-low for almost all steep climbs or descents. With 4x4 trails that climb several thousand feet in California, I'm in 4 low a lot. However, 2 WD on dirt roads its too much FUN to slide around corners😃
We always use 4L with our 2014 chevy 2500 duramax when pulling a 35 foot GN trailer loaded ( 20 1400lb hay bales)out of the field. Once on a county road I stop and go to 4H and tow haul for the 8 mile trip home.
I go to high range soon as I leave the bitumen, control to 4 wheels, low range on steep/ slippery loose conditions, slow and steady control, thanks for sharing buddy
The bicycle analogy is good but to push it a little further think of the transmission gears as the sprockets on the rear hub and the transfer case as the chainrings by the pedals.
One thing I'll add to that is that most national parks in African countries have a maximum speed limit of 40 km/h (25 mph), even on their sandy tracks. Therefore, I actually use low range in those cases for the same reasons as you. Furthermore, if you're in a really under-powered vehicle such as an old 1970's Land Rover with around 50-55 kW (67-74 bhp) at the flywheel, you'll need to be in low range on sandy tracks anyway, simply because they can't pull high range. One thing I will add is that a lot of vehicles these days, particularly with automatics, have inhibit mechanisms which prevent you going at any reasonable speed in low range. I think the current generation Hilux prevents you using any gear higher than 4th in low range, which really means that under conditions where I'd rather be in low range, I actually have to be in high. The reason? The transfer box can't cope with high speeds in low range.
I know why manufacturers restrict gears but I find it really annoying. The Ranger I used for Mount Maxxis won’t go into 1st unless you select it. At least it can be selected.
@@MadMatt4WD My parents have a Discovery 3 automatic, that's pretty good because you can select up to 3rd gear in low range whilst stationary for really slippery surfaces. It even makes that suggestion on the dashboard display! That, coupled with terrain response, means you can be oh-so-delicate on really slippery ground. You have to manually select 1st gear in low range though, because in D it defaults to 2nd gear. What I like is that you can change from low to high at up to 60 km/h (37 mph), and high to low up to 40 km/h (25 mph) if you have an automatic, 20 km/h (12 mph) if you have a manual - and the procedure is clearly demonstrated in the Owner's Manual. I really wish other manufacturers understood the benefits of being able to go faster than a crawl in low range. My old Land Rover Series III is fine up to 50 km/h (30 mph), but the warning plate does tell you not to exceed this figure - I assume because it doesn't have CV's in the front axle, just UJ's.
@@cameronwood1994 in the race car I change low to high at up 60kph but it won’t go the other way. I agree being able to change at speed is a good thing
New to offroading. So far I use hi for anything higher speeds over 20kms or easy tracks. As soon as I gotta slow right down and either crawl or to be safe. I'll drop into low range.
When I'm just cruising trails I use 2 / 4hi depending on sand / mud. I have used 4lo for climbing steep hills / crawling. I also use is when snatching a vehicle from mud / sand.
I have a Prado auto petrol and i rarely use low range as most of my 4 wheel driving is on beaches and sand dunes were i think its all about momentum so i only use low range for very slow almost crawling speeds, usually under 30 to 40 kmh.
I am not afraid to put it into low range. I have wheeled with guys who like to brag "I didn't even have to go to low range". I would tell you their names but I can't remember because no one cares. If I know the trail I pick the time to go to low. If I don't know the trail I read what I can but often will just go low as soon as I hit the dirt. My trail rig has a 4 speed Atlas so I can do high, 2 to 1, 2.72 to 1 and 5.44 to 1. Normally I just go 2 to 1 when we hit dirt. You can get up decent speed but also have the advantage of the extra torque. If it gets technical I will go with the other choices. The trick is, don't wait till you need it or are stuck. Many transfer cases do not like to shift to low when the vehicle is not moving.
Yeah I never understand why people think that’s something the brag about. All it says to me is you don’t know how to drive. That atlas is a great case.
@@MadMatt4WD Thanks for the reply Matt. Yeah, it's just kinda weird. My brother had a 70's Dodge power wagon back in the 80's. He would get stuck and then try to put it into 4wd/ low range but the TC didn't cooperate. Running in low range is so much easier on the rig, I just don't understand it. Yeah, the Atlas is a nice case. I picked up mine 'used' but never was never installed. I had to swap the input shaft and I spent 8 weekends on the garage floor installing it but it was worth it. So much flexibility. It takes a bit getting used to. The main TC shifts different than the planetary gear. But once you get the feel for it you can do a lot. Hey, thanks for the videos! I am glad your channel is doing well.
High range for me is gravel roads and paved roads with light snow and low for just about everything else. My traction control goes off in low but I also turn it off in high. I also have an “auto” setting (chevy truck) which I’ve used once when the paved road had intermittent snow as the storm was just starting.
How much fuel you burn depends on how rough the terrain is that you are traversing. If it is so rough that you can do a maximum of only 20-30km/h, fuel consumption is going to be high in either Hi or Lo, when compared to cruising on a smooth road. But you may actually get better economy from Lo because you have more ratios and a better chance of finding the ideal ratio (5 or 6 or more to choose from) for any given situation than having only Hi 1st and 2nd.
because you drive jap 4x4rs ?.. i, idle, when 4x4ing. 3rd gear low, on beach, doing 1000 revs.. soft sand. its becouse you, dont have any torque.. your gears are wrong. i have to drive down 70 degree hills. or id stall.. mate drove my truck, when they came out in 1999, at the toyota ''proving ground'',, being a toyota nut, it impressed him no end & he still talks about it. it idled all around, up, down, the track. never touched the accelorator,, 02, super duty, 4.2tdi. mwm sprint engine from germany, tractor diesel, built, fitted in brazil, sold world wide, except u.s., bought mine 6 yrs ago, wont sell it. gets 14 lt 100, 700nm, 175kw. weighs 4t.. turns better than a 79 series..& more power.. if you have to worry about fuel use, dont go outside.. i wouldnt worry about fuel,,its the breakages that cost you.. guy waited 2 days, for a tie rod. which his doughter brought from home, which was also bent, but not as bad.. another guy had a sensor sht, went into limp mode, took 3 days get to a ''town''.. i had a 1 ton ute, the rear shackle left, spent 3 wks in burke, till it was fixed.. people die in the desert, cos there car breaks.. cant drink fuel,,eh....
I have only been driving 4x4's for about 52 years now. Some 6x6 deuce and a halfs in the Army. I have built transfer cases and axles. Installed manual locking hubs and done a bit of rock crawling. Been stuck a few times and always self-extracted. Driven some 4x4 tractors including a Cat 980 and a Case 570. I use low range when I am pulling heavy loads or need to crawl or on steep tracks. Low range makes the main transmission gears closer in ratio which can help in certain situations.
Great video, Matt! How to understand power: In front of one another get a friends fist head on to your fist. Now push one another and feel how hard it is. This is power. Torque: Grab one another’s lower arm and twist, one at the right, the other to the left. This is torque. When you’re off road you need more torque than you need horsepower. Because torque is what gets you going at slow speed and in full control. My car doubles the torque when I go low range, but the horsepower stays the same. Just as in Matt’s example with the bicycle. As my low range doubles the torque it also halves the top speed. One comes with the other.
Yep petrol v6 is the way to go, gotna couple of fj cruisers, one of them with a aftermarket supercharger kit on it. The 1grfe dual vvti pumps out 220kws then with the supercharger on she sits confortably near 295kw on low boost. Id never ever buy an oil burning tractor diesel motor again.
@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi as an update..in UAE we get only 6 cylinder s and 4 cylinders PETROL version. We do not have diesel cars. However starting next year Prados will be only twin turbo 4 cylinder. Very disappointing
Awesome once again Matt A great explanation of Hi and Low. It’s amazing how many times you hear a car revving it’s rings out and you can tell the car is in the wrong gear. The more time you spend with your vehicle the more it will tell you what to do. Keep up the great work Matt. 👏👏👏
@@MadMatt4WD 4 hi v 4 lo. depends on how much guts your 4 cyl sht box has..do you have a std 1st gear, or granny gear. whats your tyre size, transfer ratio, . auto, manual, makes a difference. modern 4x4rs are junk, not 4x4rs..mate took his mu x, to w.a. from s.a., 4 wk trip , ish. cost 8k ,,,!!,, for a new engine mount.. people are brainwashed into . you have to have a new,''reliable'', vehicle. well, i have a 1962 f100. 4x4, still good..
Up and down hills, crawling over rocks and other rough terrain I stay in low. I don’t necessarily use low for sand but my truck isn’t stock. 365hp magnum 360, NV4500 and 4.56 gears/35s give me a lot of options.
we dont have that option here in aus.. there all 4 cyl jap twin cab utes.. ifs. rubbish. i drive yank 4x4rs. not jeep. you never got the s/duty, 4.2tdi. german engine, brazil built. mine has 700nm, 175kw. good enough for aus.. zf 5sp. 4.11 gears. i have to drive down hills in low. with 35,s. motor aslo fitted to silverado,s in brazil.. watch there vids. try f1000 mwm. they have excursions. theres a vid of an f truck, pushing a motor bike down the freeway.. twin turbo, big.. i havea 62 f. 4x4, 75 highboy, 82 bronco, 02 s/duty.
Thank you SO much!!! This is my first truck with 4WD and I was always confused when to/when not etc use it and how. This video was brilliant in its easy to understand explanation!!!
Hi Matt, thanks for posting this. I have a 1994 Wrangler YJ, with a 4 banger and a 5-speed tranny. When I'm off-roading, I normally run around in 4 low, in 3rd or 4th gear. When the trail gets harder, I might have to shift down into 2nd or even 1st gear. It's almost like driving an automatic. In 3rd gear, I can almost come to a complete stop without stalling and then get back on the accelerator. This really works for me. It's good to see you posting again.
Some good tips for new drivers, thanks. I live off road so have a few comments. #1 yes when going slow I use 4 low, however much of the time I don’t need 4wd and wish our trucks had the option to be in low range without being in 4wd. Of course I would use 4 low when it’s wet or towing or pulling a tree where 4 wheel traction would be beneficial. #2 On dry dirt roads where I can drive “normal” speeds I use 2 high. I guess I drive at somewhat sedate speeds where I don’t need the front wheels to pull me around curves. #3 perhaps I’m mistaken but I think it’s easier on the drive train to to be in 2wd on dry roads. #4 Some people use high range even in times when I would be in low range. I’m not a transmission mechanic but I think that has to be hard on the torque converter and transmission.
Good points. In my Toyotas i can usually make a wiring modification so i get low range without 4wd. Great for backing trailers and other manovering jobs.
Thanks for the wiring tip. I hadn’t thought of that and may look into it. Ps. Re. 2 wheel hi on dirt. I kinda enjoy maintaining control while skidding a bit on curves.
I use low range for going over high clearance obstacles so I can go really slow and keep the suspension up and it also helps for high inclines. Also for manual transmissions it helps cuz if it's super low you pretty much don't have to worry about stalling like in my 23 bronco it's so damn helpful that super high crawl gear and low range it only goes like 2 mph at the fastest
i have an 02 s/duty. 4.2tdi, mwm sprint. 700nm. 175kw. ZF 5sp. 4.11 gears. i drive down hill..or it would stall.. u.s. never had them, but built in brazil, under lic. motor is a german tractor engine. no bs computer..
Complimenti, vado in off road da molti anni Ti ho ascoltato con piacere, hai espresso dei concetti importanti in modo semplice e comprensivo, davvero bravo!
My last 4x4 had a locked front diff and automatic diff locks, so I wasn’t comfortable with the diff wind-up risk of hitting a section of tar or the amount of grip you can get on those higher speed dirt roads. My current car is an AWD with open diffs front and rear, which is the best compromise for the unsealed road I do … I don’t really do proper 4x4ing. The wife and kids aren’t into camping holidays.
You really should stop with these videos, Matt, don't want too many people being able to get out there and find our camping spots😢 haha, nah awesome training/tip videos man! Even us 1/2 seasoned 4wd'ers learn new things from you so keep them coming 🙂👍
In my 95 GQ DX Patrol and my 05 hilux (kun26r) i use high range 4wd as an awd so its just added traction on dirt roads or a really hard packed beach, i use low range for 4wding on a tricky track like a local "powerlines" track, or boggy/soft beach if i had a fancy new 4wd with modes, traction control etc ill prob change my driving style
Nice video - I have a FJ Cruiser and over the years have learnt when to alternate between H4 and L4. I have plenty of "power" at my disposal, but it tends to be high up, so..... examples: thick sand (especially when it's hot) - L4. Lots of power low down so the wheels don't spin. Same on loose gravel and rock crawling......
@@MadMatt4WD - thank you 🌺. Being a woman I have been ridiculed many times for engaging H4 on all dirt roads and L4 by choice (depending on the conditions). However, with 224'000 Kms on the clock (all driven by me) my beautiful FJ has (to date) not needed half the repairs of those vehicles belonging to the ridiculers. Just because these off-road vehicles are so capable, there's absolutely no need to be "gung-ho"......
@@jojoellensohn3513 there’s many out there who have very little idea how ignorant they are. On Fraser Island last week some muppet in front of me did a whole track in 2wd. I imagine he thought his driving was super skilled. Meanwhile he was as slow as a wet week the auto was working hard and he was wheel spinning all the time. Just idiot level 10. Hed be the goose sitting around camp telling us how he did all of Fraser in 2wd.
@@MadMatt4WD ....... oooooooooo indeed 🫣 I've met and listened to sooooo many of those "ee-jots" - quite recently too, whilst driving the deep sand tracks in the Okavango (Botswana) 🤷 No cure for "stupid" 😂‼️
On older trucks, I've even used low range in 2wd if I didn't really need 4wd, but just needed to creep over a flat stretch of road with big rocks. You save wear and tear on your front end AND you don't have to get out and turn the hubs in😅. I've always used (just like you said) low range for climbling, rock crawling, deep snow, mud, and sand, and high range for driving on flatter roads with ice and snow. I believe most vehicles will allow you to shift in and out of high range at any speed (as you said, it's the same "road" gear ratios) but you must be stopped to engage low range. I've also found that sometimes after running in low range things "bind up" and it doesn't want to let you shift out. Merely backing up a few feet and trying again usually lets it pop out and back into 2wd. Great video!😎👍
wow, yeah i remember my old man doing this in our Hj60 wagon back when she was brand spanking new as a kid. That thing went anywhere and still kicks around today.
Hi Matt, As detailled below, its well worth getting on a make specific forum to try and find out things like what gears the torque converter will lock up in if you have an auto, or when the centre diff locks with on demand 4WD systems to know when it is best to use low range... Each of the three 4WDs I have owned I have used high and low range differently in each due to the particulars of the vehicle 1st was a Suzuki Grand Vitara with an auto box....torque converter would only lockup in 3rd and 4th gear, so in addition to the technical slow speed stuff, i went to low range for soft sand, where it would run in those gears nicely at about 60km/hr... 2nd, LN106 Hilux, manual box....only went to low range when i found myself in 1st hi and barely getting above idle, or needing to slip clutch. Back to hi when i found myself in 4th or 5th gear a lot 3rd, KL Cherokee trailhawk, auto, fancy on demand 4WD system....go to low range the second it looks even remotely challenging....from what I have gathered on Jeep forums the centre diff will never lock in high range, (I believe your Jeep is the same), which can cause the transfer case to overheat and leave you with a 2WD vehicle til it cools down as it is constantly shuffling torque around. Switching to low range locks the centre diff and eliminates this issue, while still allowing a reasonable top speed...
if its not manual. dont buy it, dont go 4x4ing. auto needs lock up on all gears.. traction control & down hill assist, are bs.. stay home.. the centre diff should be locked permanent, or in 4x4. too many bs choices with new ''4x4rs''.. a centre diff, if the vehicle, cough,, has lockers, should only be used in mud, sand, or, on rock, being new bs, it will break.. watch u.s. vids. all 4x4 people, use old school 4x4rs, cos they work. watch recovery vids, 99% of vehicles they rescue, are new.. trail mater, matts off road, casey la delle, justin king colorado recovery. you learn more, as they been doing it decades more than us, &, all the gear we use, comes from there.. products for a 4x4. zf 5 / 6 speed. nv4500 / 5600. 1356 / or 205 transfer case, dana diffs, ANY. diff gear 4.11 to 4.56. minimum tyre 35'', winches, 2, front & rear. or in a cradle..solid axles, no ifs garb..preferably 8 stud..engine, what ever floats your boat.. this is why i drive old yank trucks,,.no computer, no sensors, no egr, no dpf, no worries.. note. jeep cherrokee, 1980 ish, had a centre diff. v8, solid diffs. ford broco 1982, lsd front & rear. all u.s 4x4rs have lsd..since the 60,s.. toyota lsd,s dont work..nissan are better.. cant beat dana diffs..most serious off roaders in u.s., with ifs, change it for a solid diff. they drive better & dont break.. jeeps, toyotas, nissans, too much work to make them reliable..
I will use low range while climbing a mountain or coming down. Going up even if its not rough its easier on the engine and can help keep the temp's lower. While coming down it will help slow the vehicle down so I don't wear out the brakes.
i'm not a oof roader but i do use the small rod when needed from what a i read and watched over the years.. but i did understand better watching your video.. please go on and i wish you the best
Nicely described and explained Matt. Looking forward to the 4x4 instruction videos. You know, I have yet to use low range on the Jack. Someday, somewhere I will, I'm sure...especially pulling the camper. By the way, the Jeep Grand Cherokee looks like it is extremely capable stock.
Yah I only have a little money in mine lol, aussie locked rear, 242 tcase, swapped the front from an open to a varilok axle, 4 inch lift on 32s, sway loc quick disconnect sway bar up front. But honestly the Quadra drive version on a budget 2.5 puck or coil lift with 30s or 31s would do almost as good for half the money, even stock quadra drive is very capable. I just have too much money and time on my hands so I keep finding stuff to do to it
This video is really helpful specially with new guys on 4x4. As the video says not all cars are the same. Some have more option when it comes to 4x4 specially the newer ones that also have 4h and 4hllc and 4lllc. And they have more gears (but less is better). This is a good baseline or beginners guide to 4wheel driving. You can never go wrong with the basics. 😁 And also check the owners manual because it has most of the what and what not to do with your car. 😁 Cheers! This kind of informative video is better than those booty shake on tiktoks. 😅😂
very good explanation, I would also add to turn off traction control on dirt, slippery conditions as it prevents wheel spin, which is a good thing on dry tarmac but dangerous on loose surfaces. What happens is when the traction control detects wheel spin it brakes the wheel spinning the most. This has the effect of reducing braking and steering as the traction control tries to 'balance' the car. Ive nearly driven off tracks as traction locks say a front wheel and gives power to rear wheel during a corner, not good! You actually want to skid a bit as the car actually gets traction faster. Don't forget to turn traction control back on the tarmac though!
کانال یوتیوب شما با اختلاف یکی از بهترین هاهست ، احسنت به پشتکار شما مهندس عزیز -- لطفا همیشه ما رو از دانش و تجربه ارزشمندتون بهرمند بفرمایید 👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍♥♥♥♥
@@MadMatt4WD sorry I typed in Farsi -- please keep up the good work ❤❤❤-- I am watching your channel from IRAN and I love to go and live in U.S. ,, I love you people of USA ❤❤❤
Great video, Matt! Even interesting to a bloke with a bit of 4Low time. One matter I'd like to raise attention for your viewers to is that many vehicle manuals advise against using the final gear (5th, sometimes 6th) in 4Low. All the gearbox torque is transmitted to the overdrive gears. For the same reason one should not tow in highest gear (every car I've owned advise against it on the manual). I'm sure no damage will come during light driving, but when you're hitting a moderate incline in 5th Low, just remember you've got 2x more torque forcing through the drivetrain! Cheers and have a great day!
Because I only drive old stuff I’ve never read the book so I’ll take your word for it. I do t wish to be rude but I don’t think you’ve got the torque understanding right. The gearbox doesn’t get affected by the low range it won’t even know it’s driving into a different ration. The torque increase happens at the low range gear sets. So everything after that gets affected by the extra torque. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Matt. Thanks for thanking the time to respond to every comment. No offence taken at all. Thanks for calling me out on the error. You're absolutely right about the torque, I didn't think that one through! It probably is no worse than doing hard work in 5th gear regardless of being in low or high on transfer case. This happens when you're trying to rationalise something beyond your technical knowledge. I'm better off just sharing an explaination from the Bigjimny blog: "Technical reason: As any mechanical engineer knows, gearing links / setups where gears with rather high gearing ratios (5th in gearbox) and rather low gearing ratios ("L" in transfer box) are combined, are structurally fragile - they are highly imbalanced systems considering the distribution of load forces throughout the gearing setup. This means that in such setups, the gear with the high gearing ratio has to endure a lot more load forces than it would in a normally balanced gearing setup (in which all the linked gears have similar gearing ratios). This has a risk of prematurely wearing out or outright destroying the high ratio gear in the setup if enough force is applied onto the gearing setup." Hope that's of use. Have a good day!
this, is because its jap.. i drive up hills in 5th, towing 3.5t. get a real g/box. ZF 5 / 6 sp.. i dont need to use 1st, as its very low, good for off road.. 02 super duty, 4.2 tdi, 700nm, 175kw.. a real truck.. 4x4.. telecom, up in darwin, nt, allways broke the g/box in there toyotas, using 5th. towing a trailer.. sad jap stuff.. [ i really could use a 6 sp. ]..like an nv5600. sold in u.s. for 1,600. re co.ed. there fitted behind the chev 6.6, dodge 6.7,. small block or big block. dont matter.. the nv4500, was made because the 4x4rs, needed a 5sp, to get to there destination, but also needed the granny first.. they do this in the u.s. its demand,,unlike here,,just put up with the sht they sell.. jap 4x4rs are only made to up the towing capacity,,not to go 4x4ing..fact..
This is basically back to basics and I believe that even some one learning for the first they can understand this it's text book 101 if you will, loved the video mate
Nice video and good commentary. Here are a few thoughts based on our experience: Whilst we had our Pajero, we used low range a lot. Going on the beach - engage low range, going up a track, engage low range. The reason was that low range gearing was pretty adequate (going up to 80km / h in 5th so we could keep that for the beach run). We heard that for automatic gear boxes this helps with transmission temperature. Now fast forward, and we have LC 300 with 10 gears. I haven't been able to confirm, but pretty sure that H1 is more reduction than L1 was in the Pajero. And whilst I have 7 gears in low range, I'm still capping out somewhere around 50 km/h. We have also found that the noise in low range is really quite high - seems to come from the air intake, but not sure what that is all about. So - is there a case to be made that it really depends, especially with those newer gearboxes with high number of gears? What are your thoughts on when does low range matter on a newer car like the LC300?
A landcruiser is more hard core than a Pajero so it’s gearing will be lower. I’d say you need to go into high range at a lower speed in the 300. Use the taco as a guide and have a read of the handbook.
80ks in low.???..that wasnt low range, low range should top at about 30ks. or your gearing is sht..&, you bought an lc 300 for what reason.?.image.?. last real toyota 4x4 was the 80 series. all rubbish after that. nissan is better. gu '96. why, because they have a better wheel base & transmission brake. toyota 80 had a better 1st low.. but. id buy the nissan, seeing toyota use the diff & steering box from nissan. as toyotas are weak.. you bought an expensive mall crawler. & its auto.. not,,a 4x4.. i drive old yank sht, cos it works.. mate is a toyota nut. 80 series is it.. new is not better.. plus, pajero.. first mistake.. we have them in the club,,pretty useless. too small, too low, too expensive when they break.. ifs bs.. if, toyota or nissan had there heads screwed on,,id buy one.. best design 4x4 were the f100 79 4x4, or the range rover. why,,suspension.. it works.. [ not a range rover fan. rubbish]. only mod an f100 4x4 needs, is a locker front. thats it.. i have several f series. inc. a 75 highboy. look them up. problem with toyota, all varients come on the same size chassis.. too short. the 79 ''v8 tdi'',, is a disaster, cost 15k to fix toyotas fk ups..then, it still has problems.. guy with a new,, mu x , went on a 4 wk w.a. trip.. cost him 8k,,,8k,,,, for a new engine mount. that, is new vehicles.. ifs, add blue, [ which is urine ], dpf, egr, computer, sensors. 1, of these shts out bush, you die..any person, that buys a 4x4, & intends, to do 4x4ing, needs to join a 4x4 club, with registered trainers. not a cowboy show, they, get tracks , areas closed down for being dicks..which hapened to us with new members doing donuts in the guys field..
It actually depends on the vehicle power train and gearing. My Jeep YJ and TJ are totally different off-road both are good but due to different powertrains the YJ needs 4 low most often and the Rubicon in almost never in 4 low.
I was driving in Colorado few years back and I never understood 2H, 2L, 4H and 4L. The dial was there but in the manual it said to park the car and then switch the dial. I think it was Toyota 4 Runner. So, if I understand correctly, if I am driving up the mountains then I should be using 2L or 4L.
@@MadMatt4WD Sorry I am still confused. So if I am climbing on a steep hill in Colorado, which gear should I be using. Also, If there is no way for me to park and switch gears then what are my options?
if you have the power on the steep hill and the surface is smooth then h4 will be fine. If the surface is rough and you need more power the you have in h4 then shift to low. Go and experiment to see the difference for yourself. Also watch the video a few times.
Sorry for the stupid question. I just bought an old land cruiser to be ready for winter. If I have to go down a steep road in icy conditions what is the best combination to use. Low gears I suppose, first gear to use engine break without touching the actual breaks. Anything else? My car doesn't have the hill descent option.
Whenever I get off the road on to a track or something I always go into low with center diff lock but when it's gravel roads or beaches I go high center diff lock ( I own a 94 land Rover discovery 1)
Matt, you failed to mention most 4wd utes have a locked center diff (transfer box) and are not meant to be used when on bitumen. I know it's written on the back of the sunshade (who reads that?), but really you should not go into 4wd in a ute unless you are on gravel or grass/mud/slippery shit. Constant 4x4 vehicles are the exception here. (hence center diff lock option) Trying hi-range will just twist the car up any time you want to turn a corner, eventually breaking something! I have friends that say...just go to 4wd-hi in the rain...all good, and then wonder why they steered off the road! Love your vids though...proper no nonsense stuff. We need more like you on youtube!
4H or centre diff locked as soon as you hit dirt or gravel, I don't care if it hard packed dirt, ect. its much safer this way and less wear and tear on the transfer case with a constant 4wd transfer case with CDL. Low range if I'm going slow. Usually soon as I hit a track its in low. or if I'm going between tracks slowly its in low. If I know I'm going to be no faster then 20-30km/h its usually in low. I probably use low range or change between ranges more often then others but I like to drive minimising strain on my vehicle
The front locker on my silverado can only be used when in 4low so I engage it only when I am coming up to obstacles that might prove to be a challenge. I never think about going to 4low independently because in my mind it is tied up with having my front and rear locked up. It might not be the best habit because there probably have been spots were 4low could have been useful but because I didn't need my front locked I just never considered it.😮
I just got my first land cruiser, a US spec 2006 100 series, and the owners manual went into great detail about what to use when, and even covered things like starting in 2nd LO and engine braking. I learned a fair amount!
I have experienced that on some tracks, especially steep mud climb, I use 2nd gear low range but there is not enough momentum. Once I switch to 1st gear high range, I get a lot of grunt. Driving manual 80 series. Thanks
How you phrased the discussion about oversteer, and preferring high range 4wd over low range I think is a bit of a misstatement. On a gravel road rwd is totally sufficient. With 4wd versus 2wd its not a lot more safe in corners...
i use low range anytime i cant hold second high. yes you can got to first high but if you are getting stuck or come up to something you dont have a gear to go to.
I basically stay in lo unless i really need wheel speed,i have 4:63 diffs with lockers and 2:1 transfer case ,but only have 170 horsepower so i like the extra reduction, i mainly do muddy and sandy trails,am i doing this right?
Just found your channel Matt and liked what I saw. Have liked and subbed. I have just had " full underbelly protection" (at least that's what I ASKED for) but just discovered over the weekend that there is no cover over the transfer case 🤔. I would have thought that would have been a must have ? I notice on your jeep there isn't one either ? ( I didn't notice on the video any other covers) Having the transfer case NOT protected isn't my idea of *full underbelly protection* ,What say you ?
I’m passionate about helping the 4wd community and I'm developing an online course so i can help as many people as I can to get out there and wheel well on their 4wd adventures. To register your interest and for free and exclusive training videos visit madmatt4wd.com.au/register
The lower the gear the more the torque multiplication.
is there a big difference between a 4wd with hi /lo range or a awd with hi /lo range
I stick in high range when traveling 20 or more miles per hour, dropping into low when I hit an obstacle that needs lower speeds. Also use low range on steep, loose trails. I tend to prefer being in low range and taking it slow.
One knows when people actually walk the talk. I've seen no one talk in such a confident way and with live demonstration too 😂
You have a new sub mate! Can't wait for that course. Cheers!
the phrase is " walk the walk or talk the talk ,not, walk the talk. that doesn't make any sense. think about it.
@@williamh2294 Although I thought it didn't make sense, I thought that's how the saying went lol
English isn't my first language, so I'm always learning... thanks for pointing that out!
@@xavandres please accept my apologies if I offended you. you have good writing skills. i thought you must speak English. all the best to you.
@@williamh2294 No offense at all, I appreciated the correction. And thank you, all the best to you too :)
took a class with an i4wdta certified teacher and he said the same thing. on a lot of the trails here you’re not going fast so just keep it in low range so you’re ready for any obstacles. even on easy terrain where you don’t need the extra torque, if you’re still moving slow, keep it in low.
A fine explanation - With standard 3:55 gears, larger tires and a modest 3" lift, I go into 4-low for almost all steep climbs or descents. With 4x4 trails that climb several thousand feet in California, I'm in 4 low a lot. However, 2 WD on dirt roads its too much FUN to slide around corners😃
We always use 4L with our 2014 chevy 2500 duramax when pulling a 35 foot GN trailer loaded ( 20 1400lb hay bales)out of the field. Once on a county road I stop and go to 4H and tow haul for the 8 mile trip home.
Thanks! If you live in a snowy area, always plow in 4Low
I go to high range soon as I leave the bitumen, control to 4 wheels, low range on steep/ slippery loose conditions, slow and steady control, thanks for sharing buddy
Good stuff!
The bicycle analogy is good but to push it a little further think of the transmission gears as the sprockets on the rear hub and the transfer case as the chainrings by the pedals.
I just finished Installing a new radiator for a customer same Jeep grand Cherokee WJ was a 2003 Model 3:52
Don't forget to mention that all the power goes to the wheel with least resistance with open diff.
One thing I'll add to that is that most national parks in African countries have a maximum speed limit of 40 km/h (25 mph), even on their sandy tracks. Therefore, I actually use low range in those cases for the same reasons as you. Furthermore, if you're in a really under-powered vehicle such as an old 1970's Land Rover with around 50-55 kW (67-74 bhp) at the flywheel, you'll need to be in low range on sandy tracks anyway, simply because they can't pull high range. One thing I will add is that a lot of vehicles these days, particularly with automatics, have inhibit mechanisms which prevent you going at any reasonable speed in low range. I think the current generation Hilux prevents you using any gear higher than 4th in low range, which really means that under conditions where I'd rather be in low range, I actually have to be in high. The reason? The transfer box can't cope with high speeds in low range.
I know why manufacturers restrict gears but I find it really annoying. The Ranger I used for Mount Maxxis won’t go into 1st unless you select it. At least it can be selected.
@@MadMatt4WD My parents have a Discovery 3 automatic, that's pretty good because you can select up to 3rd gear in low range whilst stationary for really slippery surfaces. It even makes that suggestion on the dashboard display! That, coupled with terrain response, means you can be oh-so-delicate on really slippery ground. You have to manually select 1st gear in low range though, because in D it defaults to 2nd gear.
What I like is that you can change from low to high at up to 60 km/h (37 mph), and high to low up to 40 km/h (25 mph) if you have an automatic, 20 km/h (12 mph) if you have a manual - and the procedure is clearly demonstrated in the Owner's Manual. I really wish other manufacturers understood the benefits of being able to go faster than a crawl in low range. My old Land Rover Series III is fine up to 50 km/h (30 mph), but the warning plate does tell you not to exceed this figure - I assume because it doesn't have CV's in the front axle, just UJ's.
@@cameronwood1994 in the race car I change low to high at up 60kph but it won’t go the other way. I agree being able to change at speed is a good thing
New to offroading. So far I use hi for anything higher speeds over 20kms or easy tracks. As soon as I gotta slow right down and either crawl or to be safe. I'll drop into low range.
That’s a good start. Don’t be scared to experiment and with time you’ll get very competent with when to use what.
When I'm just cruising trails I use 2 / 4hi depending on sand / mud. I have used 4lo for climbing steep hills / crawling. I also use is when snatching a vehicle from mud / sand.
Steep terrain or heavy snow (when going slow) is when I use low.
I use 2wd wheneverI don’t need 4wd just because it’s easier to turn sharp corners.
I use low range when I'm climbing steep hills or Moving over large Objects or Obstacles 1:49
The bike example was perfect! I immediately remembered what it felt like to use my gears in the forest on my mountain bike.
I have a Prado auto petrol and i rarely use low range as most of my 4 wheel driving is on beaches and sand dunes were i think its all about momentum so i only use low range for very slow almost crawling speeds, usually under 30 to 40 kmh.
I am not afraid to put it into low range. I have wheeled with guys who like to brag "I didn't even have to go to low range". I would tell you their names but I can't remember because no one cares. If I know the trail I pick the time to go to low. If I don't know the trail I read what I can but often will just go low as soon as I hit the dirt. My trail rig has a 4 speed Atlas so I can do high, 2 to 1, 2.72 to 1 and 5.44 to 1. Normally I just go 2 to 1 when we hit dirt. You can get up decent speed but also have the advantage of the extra torque. If it gets technical I will go with the other choices.
The trick is, don't wait till you need it or are stuck. Many transfer cases do not like to shift to low when the vehicle is not moving.
Yeah I never understand why people think that’s something the brag about. All it says to me is you don’t know how to drive. That atlas is a great case.
@@MadMatt4WD Thanks for the reply Matt. Yeah, it's just kinda weird. My brother had a 70's Dodge power wagon back in the 80's. He would get stuck and then try to put it into 4wd/ low range but the TC didn't cooperate.
Running in low range is so much easier on the rig, I just don't understand it.
Yeah, the Atlas is a nice case. I picked up mine 'used' but never was never installed. I had to swap the input shaft and I spent 8 weekends on the garage floor installing it but it was worth it. So much flexibility.
It takes a bit getting used to. The main TC shifts different than the planetary gear. But once you get the feel for it you can do a lot.
Hey, thanks for the videos! I am glad your channel is doing well.
High range for me is gravel roads and paved roads with light snow and low for just about everything else. My traction control goes off in low but I also turn it off in high.
I also have an “auto” setting (chevy truck) which I’ve used once when the paved road had intermittent snow as the storm was just starting.
Thanks for sharing!
Remember to allow for the increase in feul use if choosing to stay in low range
How much fuel you burn depends on how rough the terrain is that you are traversing. If it is so rough that you can do a maximum of only 20-30km/h, fuel consumption is going to be high in either Hi or Lo, when compared to cruising on a smooth road. But you may actually get better economy from Lo because you have more ratios and a better chance of finding the ideal ratio (5 or 6 or more to choose from) for any given situation than having only Hi 1st and 2nd.
because you drive jap 4x4rs ?.. i, idle, when 4x4ing. 3rd gear low, on beach, doing 1000 revs.. soft sand. its becouse you, dont have any torque.. your gears are wrong. i have to drive down 70 degree hills. or id stall.. mate drove my truck, when they came out in 1999, at the toyota ''proving ground'',, being a toyota nut, it impressed him no end & he still talks about it. it idled all around, up, down, the track. never touched the accelorator,, 02, super duty, 4.2tdi. mwm sprint engine from germany, tractor diesel, built, fitted in brazil, sold world wide, except u.s., bought mine 6 yrs ago, wont sell it. gets 14 lt 100, 700nm, 175kw. weighs 4t.. turns better than a 79 series..& more power.. if you have to worry about fuel use, dont go outside.. i wouldnt worry about fuel,,its the breakages that cost you.. guy waited 2 days, for a tie rod. which his doughter brought from home, which was also bent, but not as bad.. another guy had a sensor sht, went into limp mode, took 3 days get to a ''town''.. i had a 1 ton ute, the rear shackle left, spent 3 wks in burke, till it was fixed.. people die in the desert, cos there car breaks.. cant drink fuel,,eh....
@@PaulSifuel consumption is VERY high in low range
I use low range any time I am driving at less than 500 ft above sea level, and high range any time I am above 500 ft. 😉😉😉🤣🤣
Lol. I do like you 😂😂😂
Well i see u must be fun at the parties
I am using low range till 20km around my home, for more high range.
Duh! That's the only way 😂
I have only been driving 4x4's for about 52 years now. Some 6x6 deuce and a halfs in the Army. I have built transfer cases and axles. Installed manual locking hubs and done a bit of rock crawling. Been stuck a few times and always self-extracted. Driven some 4x4 tractors including a Cat 980 and a Case 570.
I use low range when I am pulling heavy loads or need to crawl or on steep tracks. Low range makes the main transmission gears closer in ratio which can help in certain situations.
Simple and to the point my brother! Just awesome! Looking forward to seeing your other videos 🙂
Great video, Matt!
How to understand power:
In front of one another get a friends fist head on to your fist. Now push one another and feel how hard it is. This is power.
Torque:
Grab one another’s lower arm and twist, one at the right, the other to the left. This is torque.
When you’re off road you need more torque than you need horsepower. Because torque is what gets you going at slow speed and in full control.
My car doubles the torque when I go low range, but the horsepower stays the same. Just as in Matt’s example with the bicycle.
As my low range doubles the torque it also halves the top speed. One comes with the other.
Love this
I drive on sand dunes on 4L on my Prado V6 petrol J150 with traction and ABS disabled.
Amazing it is.
Yep petrol v6 is the way to go, gotna couple of fj cruisers, one of them with a aftermarket supercharger kit on it. The 1grfe dual vvti pumps out 220kws then with the supercharger on she sits confortably near 295kw on low boost.
Id never ever buy an oil burning tractor diesel motor again.
@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi as an update..in UAE we get only 6 cylinder s and 4 cylinders PETROL version. We do not have diesel cars.
However starting next year Prados will be only twin turbo 4 cylinder. Very disappointing
Awesome once again Matt
A great explanation of Hi and Low.
It’s amazing how many times you hear a car revving it’s rings out and you can tell the car is in the wrong gear. The more time you spend with your vehicle the more it will tell you what to do.
Keep up the great work Matt. 👏👏👏
Great point! Thanks for the comment Jack
@@MadMatt4WD 4 hi v 4 lo. depends on how much guts your 4 cyl sht box has..do you have a std 1st gear, or granny gear. whats your tyre size, transfer ratio, . auto, manual, makes a difference. modern 4x4rs are junk, not 4x4rs..mate took his mu x, to w.a. from s.a., 4 wk trip , ish. cost 8k ,,,!!,, for a new engine mount.. people are brainwashed into . you have to have a new,''reliable'', vehicle. well, i have a 1962 f100. 4x4, still good..
Up and down hills, crawling over rocks and other rough terrain I stay in low. I don’t necessarily use low for sand but my truck isn’t stock. 365hp magnum 360, NV4500 and 4.56 gears/35s give me a lot of options.
we dont have that option here in aus.. there all 4 cyl jap twin cab utes.. ifs. rubbish. i drive yank 4x4rs. not jeep. you never got the s/duty, 4.2tdi. german engine, brazil built. mine has 700nm, 175kw. good enough for aus.. zf 5sp. 4.11 gears. i have to drive down hills in low. with 35,s. motor aslo fitted to silverado,s in brazil.. watch there vids. try f1000 mwm. they have excursions. theres a vid of an f truck, pushing a motor bike down the freeway.. twin turbo, big.. i havea 62 f. 4x4, 75 highboy, 82 bronco, 02 s/duty.
Thanks @MadMatt4WD, this video was very helpful!!!
Wonderful
your videos are always great to watch
Glad you like them!
Thank you SO much!!! This is my first truck with 4WD and I was always confused when to/when not etc use it and how. This video was brilliant in its easy to understand explanation!!!
You're welcome!
Great video! I’m just learning beach driving in my little Jimny. There’s some really helpful advice here - thank you! 😊
Awesome I hope we can really help you out
Thank you very much for these informations about H and L ranges.
Our pleasure!
Thanks for the info, learning took place
Hi Matt, thanks for posting this. I have a 1994 Wrangler YJ, with a 4 banger and a 5-speed tranny. When I'm off-roading, I normally run around in 4 low, in 3rd or 4th gear. When the trail gets harder, I might have to shift down into 2nd or even 1st gear. It's almost like driving an automatic. In 3rd gear, I can almost come to a complete stop without stalling and then get back on the accelerator. This really works for me. It's good to see you posting again.
Thanks. I will do similar in low gears
Some good tips for new drivers, thanks.
I live off road so have a few comments. #1 yes when going slow I use 4 low, however much of the time I don’t need
4wd and wish our trucks had the option
to be in low range
without being in 4wd. Of course I would use 4 low when it’s wet or towing or pulling a tree where 4 wheel traction would be beneficial.
#2 On dry dirt roads where I can drive “normal”
speeds I use 2 high. I guess I drive at
somewhat sedate speeds where I don’t need the front wheels to pull me around curves.
#3 perhaps I’m mistaken but I think it’s easier on the drive train to to be in 2wd on dry roads.
#4 Some people use high range even in times when I would be in low range. I’m not a transmission mechanic but I think that has to be hard on the torque converter and transmission.
Good points. In my Toyotas i can usually make a wiring modification so i get low range without 4wd. Great for backing trailers and other manovering jobs.
Thanks for the wiring tip. I hadn’t thought of that and may look into it.
Ps. Re. 2 wheel hi on dirt. I kinda enjoy maintaining control while skidding a bit on curves.
@@LeRoisAdventures We all enjoy a bit of sideways action.
I use low range for going over high clearance obstacles so I can go really slow and keep the suspension up and it also helps for high inclines. Also for manual transmissions it helps cuz if it's super low you pretty much don't have to worry about stalling like in my 23 bronco it's so damn helpful that super high crawl gear and low range it only goes like 2 mph at the fastest
i have an 02 s/duty. 4.2tdi, mwm sprint. 700nm. 175kw. ZF 5sp. 4.11 gears. i drive down hill..or it would stall.. u.s. never had them, but built in brazil, under lic. motor is a german tractor engine. no bs computer..
Complimenti, vado in off road da molti anni Ti ho ascoltato con piacere, hai espresso dei concetti importanti in modo semplice e comprensivo, davvero bravo!
I happy I could help you.
My last 4x4 had a locked front diff and automatic diff locks, so I wasn’t comfortable with the diff wind-up risk of hitting a section of tar or the amount of grip you can get on those higher speed dirt roads. My current car is an AWD with open diffs front and rear, which is the best compromise for the unsealed road I do … I don’t really do proper 4x4ing. The wife and kids aren’t into camping holidays.
That was a very interesting video Matt. I see you are enjoying your Jeep.
I do like the v8
You really should stop with these videos, Matt, don't want too many people being able to get out there and find our camping spots😢 haha, nah awesome training/tip videos man! Even us 1/2 seasoned 4wd'ers learn new things from you so keep them coming 🙂👍
Lol. Thanks for the smile
I do similar, high range if going to be above 30 KPH, low range if below usually
Really good video. I appreciate you sharing from a manual transmission perspective as well.
My pleasure!
In my 95 GQ DX Patrol and my 05 hilux (kun26r) i use high range 4wd as an awd so its just added traction on dirt roads or a really hard packed beach, i use low range for 4wding on a tricky track like a local "powerlines" track, or boggy/soft beach if i had a fancy new 4wd with modes, traction control etc ill prob change my driving style
Nice video - I have a FJ Cruiser and over the years have learnt when to alternate between H4 and L4. I have plenty of "power" at my disposal, but it tends to be high up, so..... examples: thick sand (especially when it's hot) - L4. Lots of power low down so the wheels don't spin. Same on loose gravel and rock crawling......
Well said!
@@MadMatt4WD - thank you 🌺. Being a woman I have been ridiculed many times for engaging H4 on all dirt roads and L4 by choice (depending on the conditions). However, with 224'000 Kms on the clock (all driven by me) my beautiful FJ has (to date) not needed half the repairs of those vehicles belonging to the ridiculers. Just because these off-road vehicles are so capable, there's absolutely no need to be "gung-ho"......
@@jojoellensohn3513 there’s many out there who have very little idea how ignorant they are. On Fraser Island last week some muppet in front of me did a whole track in 2wd. I imagine he thought his driving was super skilled. Meanwhile he was as slow as a wet week the auto was working hard and he was wheel spinning all the time. Just idiot level 10. Hed be the goose sitting around camp telling us how he did all of Fraser in 2wd.
@@MadMatt4WD ....... oooooooooo indeed 🫣 I've met and listened to sooooo many of those "ee-jots" - quite recently too, whilst driving the deep sand tracks in the Okavango (Botswana) 🤷 No cure for "stupid" 😂‼️
Supercharge her, you wont regret it, its an eay 50 to 70 kw gain out of the box and the torque is even more impressive.
You had me giggling at "you can skip gears." Indeed, that might come as a revelation to some, never really thought about it that way.
Nice.
Cheers for the info, i burned my clutch on my 2023 hilux while trying to climb with 4hi ! 😮💨
Oh no!
On older trucks, I've even used low range in 2wd if I didn't really need 4wd, but just needed to creep over a flat stretch of road with big rocks. You save wear and tear on your front end AND you don't have to get out and turn the hubs in😅. I've always used (just like you said) low range for climbling, rock crawling, deep snow, mud, and sand, and high range for driving on flatter roads with ice and snow. I believe most vehicles will allow you to shift in and out of high range at any speed (as you said, it's the same "road" gear ratios) but you must be stopped to engage low range. I've also found that sometimes after running in low range things "bind up" and it doesn't want to let you shift out. Merely backing up a few feet and trying again usually lets it pop out and back into 2wd. Great video!😎👍
Right on
wow, yeah i remember my old man doing this in our Hj60 wagon back when she was brand spanking new as a kid.
That thing went anywhere and still kicks around today.
Hi Matt,
As detailled below, its well worth getting on a make specific forum to try and find out things like what gears the torque converter will lock up in if you have an auto, or when the centre diff locks with on demand 4WD systems to know when it is best to use low range...
Each of the three 4WDs I have owned I have used high and low range differently in each due to the particulars of the vehicle
1st was a Suzuki Grand Vitara with an auto box....torque converter would only lockup in 3rd and 4th gear, so in addition to the technical slow speed stuff, i went to low range for soft sand, where it would run in those gears nicely at about 60km/hr...
2nd, LN106 Hilux, manual box....only went to low range when i found myself in 1st hi and barely getting above idle, or needing to slip clutch. Back to hi when i found myself in 4th or 5th gear a lot
3rd, KL Cherokee trailhawk, auto, fancy on demand 4WD system....go to low range the second it looks even remotely challenging....from what I have gathered on Jeep forums the centre diff will never lock in high range, (I believe your Jeep is the same), which can cause the transfer case to overheat and leave you with a 2WD vehicle til it cools down as it is constantly shuffling torque around. Switching to low range locks the centre diff and eliminates this issue, while still allowing a reasonable top speed...
Yes every vehicle is different for sure. I recommend people read the owners manual but hopefully the information in this video also helps people.
if its not manual. dont buy it, dont go 4x4ing. auto needs lock up on all gears.. traction control & down hill assist, are bs.. stay home.. the centre diff should be locked permanent, or in 4x4. too many bs choices with new ''4x4rs''.. a centre diff, if the vehicle, cough,, has lockers, should only be used in mud, sand, or, on rock, being new bs, it will break.. watch u.s. vids. all 4x4 people, use old school 4x4rs, cos they work. watch recovery vids, 99% of vehicles they rescue, are new.. trail mater, matts off road, casey la delle, justin king colorado recovery. you learn more, as they been doing it decades more than us, &, all the gear we use, comes from there.. products for a 4x4. zf 5 / 6 speed. nv4500 / 5600. 1356 / or 205 transfer case, dana diffs, ANY. diff gear 4.11 to 4.56. minimum tyre 35'', winches, 2, front & rear. or in a cradle..solid axles, no ifs garb..preferably 8 stud..engine, what ever floats your boat.. this is why i drive old yank trucks,,.no computer, no sensors, no egr, no dpf, no worries.. note. jeep cherrokee, 1980 ish, had a centre diff. v8, solid diffs. ford broco 1982, lsd front & rear. all u.s 4x4rs have lsd..since the 60,s.. toyota lsd,s dont work..nissan are better.. cant beat dana diffs..most serious off roaders in u.s., with ifs, change it for a solid diff. they drive better & dont break.. jeeps, toyotas, nissans, too much work to make them reliable..
Turns out I’ve been doing it accidentally. The explanation was bang on and concise. Pleased I know more about it though. Thank you
That’s awesome to hear
I just own my first 4WD, Toyota Hilux, and I appreciate your knowledge very much 🙏
Our pleasure!
I will use low range while climbing a mountain or coming down. Going up even if its not rough its easier on the engine and can help keep the temp's lower. While coming down it will help slow the vehicle down so I don't wear out the brakes.
i'm not a oof roader but i do use the small rod when needed from what a i read and watched over the years.. but i did understand better watching your video.. please go on and i wish you the best
I’m glad I could help
Nicely described and explained Matt. Looking forward to the 4x4 instruction videos.
You know, I have yet to use low range on the Jack. Someday, somewhere I will, I'm sure...especially pulling the camper.
By the way, the Jeep Grand Cherokee looks like it is extremely capable stock.
Go wheeling somewhere where you need to, its worth the time. You need to 😂😂 , thanks
Nice jeep wj, going over that rut at 5 min really showed how the varilok axles work. Jeep wj is what I offroad so I know quite a bit about them
Yeah I’ve not quite got my head around how it works yet but it goes well Offroad for what it is.
Yah I only have a little money in mine lol, aussie locked rear, 242 tcase, swapped the front from an open to a varilok axle, 4 inch lift on 32s, sway loc quick disconnect sway bar up front. But honestly the Quadra drive version on a budget 2.5 puck or coil lift with 30s or 31s would do almost as good for half the money, even stock quadra drive is very capable. I just have too much money and time on my hands so I keep finding stuff to do to it
Thanks for making it makes sense
This video is really helpful specially with new guys on 4x4. As the video says not all cars are the same. Some have more option when it comes to 4x4 specially the newer ones that also have 4h and 4hllc and 4lllc. And they have more gears (but less is better). This is a good baseline or beginners guide to 4wheel driving. You can never go wrong with the basics. 😁 And also check the owners manual because it has most of the what and what not to do with your car. 😁 Cheers! This kind of informative video is better than those booty shake on tiktoks. 😅😂
Very informative topic sir👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Thanks
Most welcome
very good explanation, I would also add to turn off traction control on dirt, slippery conditions as it prevents wheel spin, which is a good thing on dry tarmac but dangerous on loose surfaces. What happens is when the traction control detects wheel spin it brakes the wheel spinning the most. This has the effect of reducing braking and steering as the traction control tries to 'balance' the car. Ive nearly driven off tracks as traction locks say a front wheel and gives power to rear wheel during a corner, not good! You actually want to skid a bit as the car actually gets traction faster.
Don't forget to turn traction control back on the tarmac though!
I agree with you. Most modern 4wds turn TC back on each start or when you go over a certain speed.
کانال یوتیوب شما با اختلاف یکی از بهترین هاهست ، احسنت به پشتکار شما مهندس عزیز -- لطفا همیشه ما رو از دانش و تجربه ارزشمندتون بهرمند بفرمایید
👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍♥♥♥♥
Thank you for the kind words.
@@MadMatt4WD sorry I typed in Farsi -- please keep up the good work ❤❤❤-- I am watching your channel from IRAN and I love to go and live in U.S. ,, I love you people of USA ❤❤❤
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, cheers for the info!
Glad to help
Thanks for this as I'm new to this game and you hear a million experts different opinions. Great help cheers.
Glad I could help! And feel free to reach out if you need any other help. Lots of videos here to help you
This guy is very helpful... Need more of these kinds of contents.. thank you..
My pleasure.
Thanks for this video, cleared up a few things
Glad it helped!
Great video. Can you do a video on full-time 4WD versus part-time 4WD?
Great video, Matt! Even interesting to a bloke with a bit of 4Low time. One matter I'd like to raise attention for your viewers to is that many vehicle manuals advise against using the final gear (5th, sometimes 6th) in 4Low. All the gearbox torque is transmitted to the overdrive gears. For the same reason one should not tow in highest gear (every car I've owned advise against it on the manual).
I'm sure no damage will come during light driving, but when you're hitting a moderate incline in 5th Low, just remember you've got 2x more torque forcing through the drivetrain!
Cheers and have a great day!
Because I only drive old stuff I’ve never read the book so I’ll take your word for it. I do t wish to be rude but I don’t think you’ve got the torque understanding right. The gearbox doesn’t get affected by the low range it won’t even know it’s driving into a different ration. The torque increase happens at the low range gear sets. So everything after that gets affected by the extra torque. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Matt. Thanks for thanking the time to respond to every comment. No offence taken at all. Thanks for calling me out on the error. You're absolutely right about the torque, I didn't think that one through!
It probably is no worse than doing hard work in 5th gear regardless of being in low or high on transfer case.
This happens when you're trying to rationalise something beyond your technical knowledge. I'm better off just sharing an explaination from the Bigjimny blog:
"Technical reason: As any mechanical engineer knows, gearing links / setups where gears with rather high gearing ratios (5th in gearbox) and rather low gearing ratios ("L" in transfer box) are combined, are structurally fragile - they are highly imbalanced systems considering the distribution of load forces throughout the gearing setup.
This means that in such setups, the gear with the high gearing ratio has to endure a lot more load forces than it would in a normally balanced gearing setup (in which all the linked gears have similar gearing ratios).
This has a risk of prematurely wearing out or outright destroying the high ratio gear in the setup if enough force is applied onto the gearing setup."
Hope that's of use. Have a good day!
this, is because its jap.. i drive up hills in 5th, towing 3.5t. get a real g/box. ZF 5 / 6 sp.. i dont need to use 1st, as its very low, good for off road.. 02 super duty, 4.2 tdi, 700nm, 175kw.. a real truck.. 4x4.. telecom, up in darwin, nt, allways broke the g/box in there toyotas, using 5th. towing a trailer.. sad jap stuff.. [ i really could use a 6 sp. ]..like an nv5600. sold in u.s. for 1,600. re co.ed. there fitted behind the chev 6.6, dodge 6.7,. small block or big block. dont matter.. the nv4500, was made because the 4x4rs, needed a 5sp, to get to there destination, but also needed the granny first.. they do this in the u.s. its demand,,unlike here,,just put up with the sht they sell.. jap 4x4rs are only made to up the towing capacity,,not to go 4x4ing..fact..
Oh wow, I've been waiting for this video for years 😅😊
This is basically back to basics and I believe that even some one learning for the first they can understand this it's text book 101 if you will, loved the video mate
Thanks. There’s many people who are not sure about how this works.
That's true mate
Can you do a video on judgement of sides and back and front when in city roads
Nice video and good commentary. Here are a few thoughts based on our experience:
Whilst we had our Pajero, we used low range a lot. Going on the beach - engage low range, going up a track, engage low range. The reason was that low range gearing was pretty adequate (going up to 80km / h in 5th so we could keep that for the beach run). We heard that for automatic gear boxes this helps with transmission temperature.
Now fast forward, and we have LC 300 with 10 gears. I haven't been able to confirm, but pretty sure that H1 is more reduction than L1 was in the Pajero. And whilst I have 7 gears in low range, I'm still capping out somewhere around 50 km/h. We have also found that the noise in low range is really quite high - seems to come from the air intake, but not sure what that is all about.
So - is there a case to be made that it really depends, especially with those newer gearboxes with high number of gears? What are your thoughts on when does low range matter on a newer car like the LC300?
A landcruiser is more hard core than a Pajero so it’s gearing will be lower. I’d say you need to go into high range at a lower speed in the 300. Use the taco as a guide and have a read of the handbook.
80ks in low.???..that wasnt low range, low range should top at about 30ks. or your gearing is sht..&, you bought an lc 300 for what reason.?.image.?. last real toyota 4x4 was the 80 series. all rubbish after that. nissan is better. gu '96. why, because they have a better wheel base & transmission brake. toyota 80 had a better 1st low.. but. id buy the nissan, seeing toyota use the diff & steering box from nissan. as toyotas are weak.. you bought an expensive mall crawler. & its auto.. not,,a 4x4.. i drive old yank sht, cos it works.. mate is a toyota nut. 80 series is it.. new is not better.. plus, pajero.. first mistake.. we have them in the club,,pretty useless. too small, too low, too expensive when they break.. ifs bs.. if, toyota or nissan had there heads screwed on,,id buy one.. best design 4x4 were the f100 79 4x4, or the range rover. why,,suspension.. it works.. [ not a range rover fan. rubbish]. only mod an f100 4x4 needs, is a locker front. thats it.. i have several f series. inc. a 75 highboy. look them up. problem with toyota, all varients come on the same size chassis.. too short. the 79 ''v8 tdi'',, is a disaster, cost 15k to fix toyotas fk ups..then, it still has problems.. guy with a new,, mu x , went on a 4 wk w.a. trip.. cost him 8k,,,8k,,,, for a new engine mount. that, is new vehicles.. ifs, add blue, [ which is urine ], dpf, egr, computer, sensors. 1, of these shts out bush, you die..any person, that buys a 4x4, & intends, to do 4x4ing, needs to join a 4x4 club, with registered trainers. not a cowboy show, they, get tracks , areas closed down for being dicks..which hapened to us with new members doing donuts in the guys field..
It actually depends on the vehicle power train and gearing. My Jeep YJ and TJ are totally different off-road both are good but due to different powertrains the YJ needs 4 low most often and the Rubicon in almost never in 4 low.
I was driving in Colorado few years back and I never understood 2H, 2L, 4H and 4L. The dial was there but in the manual it said to park the car and then switch the dial. I think it was Toyota 4 Runner. So, if I understand correctly, if I am driving up the mountains then I should be using 2L or 4L.
Generally 2l doesn’t exist. 4l for going slow or when you need torque. 4h for any dirt or soft surface you can travel at speed on.
@@MadMatt4WD Sorry I am still confused. So if I am climbing on a steep hill in Colorado, which gear should I be using. Also, If there is no way for me to park and switch gears then what are my options?
if you have the power on the steep hill and the surface is smooth then h4 will be fine. If the surface is rough and you need more power the you have in h4 then shift to low. Go and experiment to see the difference for yourself. Also watch the video a few times.
@@MadMatt4WDif you have manual hubs you can leave them unlocked and go into 4lo aka 2lo
always super informative and helpful information MadMatt!
Thanks mate
What a genius man!
Sorry for the stupid question. I just bought an old land cruiser to be ready for winter. If I have to go down a steep road in icy conditions what is the best combination to use. Low gears I suppose, first gear to use engine break without touching the actual breaks. Anything else? My car doesn't have the hill descent option.
That’s correct. And let the tyres down to a low pressure.
Without a doubt the best explanation I've found as a newbie 4x4 wannabe 😅
Well thinks
Whenever I get off the road on to a track or something I always go into low with center diff lock but when it's gravel roads or beaches I go high center diff lock ( I own a 94 land Rover discovery 1)
Matt, you failed to mention most 4wd utes have a locked center diff (transfer box) and are not meant to be used when on bitumen.
I know it's written on the back of the sunshade (who reads that?), but really you should not go into 4wd in a ute unless you are on gravel or grass/mud/slippery shit. Constant 4x4 vehicles are the exception here. (hence center diff lock option)
Trying hi-range will just twist the car up any time you want to turn a corner, eventually breaking something!
I have friends that say...just go to 4wd-hi in the rain...all good, and then wonder why they steered off the road!
Love your vids though...proper no nonsense stuff. We need more like you on youtube!
4H or centre diff locked as soon as you hit dirt or gravel, I don't care if it hard packed dirt, ect. its much safer this way and less wear and tear on the transfer case with a constant 4wd transfer case with CDL.
Low range if I'm going slow. Usually soon as I hit a track its in low. or if I'm going between tracks slowly its in low. If I know I'm going to be no faster then 20-30km/h its usually in low. I probably use low range or change between ranges more often then others but I like to drive minimising strain on my vehicle
You sound like me.
The front locker on my silverado can only be used when in 4low so I engage it only when I am coming up to obstacles that might prove to be a challenge. I never think about going to 4low independently because in my mind it is tied up with having my front and rear locked up. It might not be the best habit because there probably have been spots were 4low could have been useful but because I didn't need my front locked I just never considered it.😮
Try low without the locker and get to know how that works for you.
it's my first time to your videos well explained
Thanks.
I just got my first land cruiser, a US spec 2006 100 series, and the owners manual went into great detail about what to use when, and even covered things like starting in 2nd LO and engine braking. I learned a fair amount!
Very cool!
Thanks for such informative video. Your videos are high quality.
So nice of you
4Lo < 75 mph
4h > 80mph
Front and rear lockers only during tight turns.
That’s no standard setup. 😁
Matt; what's your opinion on the Torsen Diff as a rear locker solution?
Hey. No opinion as I’ve never used one
I have experienced that on some tracks, especially steep mud climb, I use 2nd gear low range but there is not enough momentum. Once I switch to 1st gear high range, I get a lot of grunt. Driving manual 80 series. Thanks
Yes and with some experiance you'll learn this as you have.
Awesome, thanks.
You bet!
You made my life simpler, thanks for making fun of us newbies. Great demonstration all video by the way
Glad you liked it!
How you phrased the discussion about oversteer, and preferring high range 4wd over low range I think is a bit of a misstatement. On a gravel road rwd is totally sufficient. With 4wd versus 2wd its not a lot more safe in corners...
We’ll have to disagree then.
i use low range anytime i cant hold second high. yes you can got to first high but if you are getting stuck or come up to something you dont have a gear to go to.
Great expalination mate
I basically stay in lo unless i really need wheel speed,i have 4:63 diffs with lockers and 2:1 transfer case ,but only have 170 horsepower so i like the extra reduction, i mainly do muddy and sandy trails,am i doing this right?
What about over drive and traction control, should I turn those off?
You don’t have to. But play around with it and learn what works for you.
I switch into 4WD H when I start to encounter washboards or rocks. I shift into Low gears when it becomes difficult to manage the clutch
Thanks for the info
I’m interested in the course. Thanks
Great stuff make sure to sign up
What a explanation, ❤ thanks buddy.
Glad you liked it!
Just found your channel Matt and liked what I saw. Have liked and subbed. I have just had " full underbelly protection" (at least that's what I ASKED for) but just discovered over the weekend that there is no cover over the transfer case 🤔. I would have thought that would have been a must have ? I notice on your jeep there isn't one either ? ( I didn't notice on the video any other covers)
Having the transfer case NOT protected isn't my idea of *full underbelly protection* ,What say you ?
Thanks for the sub! I agree re full under belly protection. I’ve only just got the jeep and have belly pan to fit.
I have a 22’ Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport any advice for me. I’ve only had it a week
I could give lots of advice. Probably start by watching these videos and go from there.
What do you use to cross the Simpson -- high range
Most of it’ll be high range but be prepared to slip into low if that works better for you vehicle.
Great vids👍👍
Lake Havasu 🌞 Az USA
Thanks mate! Appreciate it. And I appreciate your encouragement each video, it means a lot.