Only defective modules can be found via the voltage. With a capacity measurement, weak modules can also be found. These weak modules are among the first to be broken the next time. I found a 7.4 volt module with only 1800 mAh. Normally old modules (year 2007) have approx. 5500 to 6500 mAh. Here you find the way to check the capacity of your cells: ruclips.net/video/g5KAPge-f6E/видео.html
Correct, if you will notice the title is LOAD testing, not capacity testing, they do not measure the same thing. Why load test? No point in doing a capacity test if the module cannot carry even a small load and so save huge time.
My Camry ex taxi. Over 800,000kms 2010, I know the owner and he never changed the battery. I have the car 5 years. Last 12 months the code throws. First it was every couple weeks, now some days it throw 3 times in one day. But it still go weeks sometimes. Funny only at major part he change was abs. Except for tyres and oil, the only thing, I've changed is a wheel bearing in 5 years. Need a lot now. Hard choice to keep it or flick it.
Thank you for the video! I have load test my 2012 camry battery cells with an old headlamp bulb known as h4; all calls were holding 7.45 volts range and I had meter on for 20 seconds for each cell. If cells are showing capacity where it should be then what should I check next to fix P0A80 fault code? Thanks
i bought a used pack. about six of them were at 7.53v. the rest were 6v , 4v, 2v and 0.45v. i replaced two bad modules with the 7.53v and my prius is good. the low volts ones, i have been trying to balance . i noticed they discharge by themselves quickly or slowly over a few minutes or in a day. the rate discharge differs. the 7.53v would not discharge at all. i did not try to balance them. i just swapped them out.
0:24 Make sure you careful with that power supply. Its not a charger. Cool video, I've burned many power supplies before learning i need a charger in the middle. A nice rc charger will do
Load testing with around 2-3 amps for only a few seconds? I wouldn't think that would be long enough to determine if a battery is good or not. Others have recommend 2 minutes.
150w on a 7.5V battery is like 20A, no way they will take that for two minutes. I think folks are confusing the motor current the inverter produces and the battery current from the High Voltage pack, which are not at all the same thing.
thanks for the video and explanation, this helps me as im currently going through my modules
Great to hear!
The thing is they are hooked up in series so when the car is pulling 30 amps it 30 per block. It is easier to understand if you convert to Watts.
In series, every module (2/block) sees the 30A, yes.
@@ZookeeperJohnG. 30A and then some!
Only defective modules can be found via the voltage. With a capacity measurement, weak modules can also be found. These weak modules are among the first to be broken the next time. I found a 7.4 volt module with only 1800 mAh. Normally old modules (year 2007) have approx. 5500 to 6500 mAh.
Here you find the way to check the capacity of your cells:
ruclips.net/video/g5KAPge-f6E/видео.html
Correct, if you will notice the title is LOAD testing, not capacity testing, they do not measure the same thing. Why load test? No point in doing a capacity test if the module cannot carry even a small load and so save huge time.
My Camry ex taxi. Over 800,000kms 2010, I know the owner and he never changed the battery. I have the car 5 years. Last 12 months the code throws. First it was every couple weeks, now some days it throw 3 times in one day. But it still go weeks sometimes. Funny only at major part he change was abs. Except for tyres and oil, the only thing, I've changed is a wheel bearing in 5 years. Need a lot now. Hard choice to keep it or flick it.
thanks you for video. simple explain , easy to understand
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video!
I have load test my 2012 camry battery cells with an old headlamp bulb known as h4; all calls were holding 7.45 volts range and I had meter on for 20 seconds for each cell. If cells are showing capacity where it should be then what should I check next to fix P0A80 fault code? Thanks
If all the modules check out ok, I would suspect corrosion on the terminals, or the whole pack is just worn out.
Which company this load test? Did you have any link to buy?
i bought a used pack. about six of them were at 7.53v. the rest were 6v , 4v, 2v and 0.45v. i replaced two bad modules with the 7.53v and my prius is good. the low volts ones, i have been trying to balance . i noticed they discharge by themselves quickly or slowly over a few minutes or in a day. the rate discharge differs. the 7.53v would not discharge at all. i did not try to balance them. i just swapped them out.
0:24 Make sure you careful with that power supply. Its not a charger. Cool video, I've burned many power supplies before learning i need a charger in the middle. A nice rc charger will do
There is no power supply in this video.
Load testing with around 2-3 amps for only a few seconds? I wouldn't think that would be long enough to determine if a battery is good or not. Others have recommend 2 minutes.
Not capacity testing, load testing to find bad modules. Performing a capacity test takes a lot longer and will find OK, but weak modules.
that's such a minuscule load I find it hard to believe it's very effective. Think of the load these things are normally put under in normal use!
It is super effective at weeding out failed modules that capacity testing would be a total waste of time on and that was my goal.
I would have liked to see the voltage without load on the bad cells! Can a bad cell show suffucent voltage without load? Thank you!
Yes they can. A truly bad cell will have low open circuit voltage, but marginal ones can show close to normal.
I had an exploded cell. Literally black and burned and leaking liquid. Still gave me a reading of around 8 volts.
what is the voltage it should hold under a load and without a load?
If a module is
On priuschat I've seen a lot of comments that the load test should be 100W or 150W and a two minute to the second time, to get the correct results.
150w on a 7.5V battery is like 20A, no way they will take that for two minutes. I think folks are confusing the motor current the inverter produces and the battery current from the High Voltage pack, which are not at all the same thing.
EVERYONE ELSE THAT LOAD TEST DOES IT LONGER
YOURS IS TOO QUICK
To identify failed ones, this is perfectly fine.