Hi Tony, currently rebuilding a d7 engine and had to remove the gear selector detent socket.It came out easily enough with a lot of heat,any tips for fitting the new one, it's a good tight but not alot of room to drift it in? Great videos mate, very easy to follow
Yep get some heat into the cases like you did to get the old one out.....Use a G clamp to draw it in. Be really careful setting up so the slot is in alignment before you fit it up. Make sure it is all the way home when seated. Hope this helps.
Many thanks for taking the time to get back to me,the g clamp method was all I could think of too.If I could bend your ear a bit more what sort of running clearance should the main shaft sleeve gear bushes have,I was thinking about a thou to a thou and a half for the oilite bushes and do you use a press to put the new ones in before reaming?I have 2 engines to build and the play seems excessive.Your videos have been very useful,too many'experts' over here in the UK bodging rebuilds with the obvious consequences.
Hi @@johnwest-zv1ix Service sheet 511 states the bearing clearances. This is for D1 & D3 engines, but is still relevant to the D7's. Your right on the money with the clearances you stated. however before you start reaming up bushes there's a few things to get done. Firstly if your replacement bushes are "oilite" sintered bushes then get rid of them and replace them with solid bronze bushes. They don't stand up to gearbox loads and can break up. Mainshaft needs to be measured and parallel on the running bearing surface. Expect the last 1/4" at the end to be undersized by up to .010" from the rest of the shaft. If required, polish the shaft in a lathe to get it parallel, this will probably require taking it down to around .497". Disregard polishing the last 1/4" of the shaft that is way undersize. The bushes are then pressed into the sliding gear, oil holes drilled, then reamed to suit the new shaft size. I don't measure the clearance as the gear must spin freely on the shaft without any radial slop. I just keep "creeping" up on the size with an adjustable reamer. until I achieve the fit.....Hope this helps.
Again many thanks for taking the time to answer my question and in such detail too.Your advice is invaluable and has also stressed the importance to me of obtaining the BSA service sheets I always see you refer to in your videos.I know you're a very busy man so again thanks for your help
I'm impressed with the clutch tool. Very positive action.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks 👍
Hi Tony, currently rebuilding a d7 engine and had to remove the gear selector detent socket.It came out easily enough with a lot of heat,any tips for fitting the new one, it's a good tight but not alot of room to drift it in? Great videos mate, very easy to follow
Yep get some heat into the cases like you did to get the old one out.....Use a G clamp to draw it in. Be really careful setting up so the slot is in alignment before you fit it up. Make sure it is all the way home when seated. Hope this helps.
Many thanks for taking the time to get back to me,the g clamp method was all I could think of too.If I could bend your ear a bit more what sort of running clearance should the main shaft sleeve gear bushes have,I was thinking about a thou to a thou and a half for the oilite bushes and do you use a press to put the new ones in before reaming?I have 2 engines to build and the play seems excessive.Your videos have been very useful,too many'experts' over here in the UK bodging rebuilds with the obvious consequences.
Hi @@johnwest-zv1ix Service sheet 511 states the bearing clearances. This is for D1 & D3 engines, but is still relevant to the D7's. Your right on the money with the clearances you stated. however before you start reaming up bushes there's a few things to get done. Firstly if your replacement bushes are "oilite" sintered bushes then get rid of them and replace them with solid bronze bushes. They don't stand up to gearbox loads and can break up. Mainshaft needs to be measured and parallel on the running bearing surface. Expect the last 1/4" at the end to be undersized by up to .010" from the rest of the shaft. If required, polish the shaft in a lathe to get it parallel, this will probably require taking it down to around .497". Disregard polishing the last 1/4" of the shaft that is way undersize. The bushes are then pressed into the sliding gear, oil holes drilled, then reamed to suit the new shaft size. I don't measure the clearance as the gear must spin freely on the shaft without any radial slop. I just keep "creeping" up on the size with an adjustable reamer. until I achieve the fit.....Hope this helps.
Again many thanks for taking the time to answer my question and in such detail too.Your advice is invaluable and has also stressed the importance to me of obtaining the BSA service sheets I always see you refer to in your videos.I know you're a very busy man so again thanks for your help
@@johnwest-zv1ix the service sheets are available from the resource section on www.ozbsabsntsms.com.au