Excellent video! You obviously have an engineer's mind! The techniques you show us here can be used for other alignment situations. Thanks! Much appreciated!
@@talbech do you mean the jointer? On my jointer for alignment I set it even with the out feed table so I can use it as a reference to help level the tablesaw/shaper top. But after alignment I adjust the infeed table to control my cut depth as needed but generally I keep it around 1-2 mm depth of cut.
@@3bikesfly sorry, yes, I did mean the jointer. I set mine at 1,5 mm. Another thing I noticed is that my adjustment mechanism like you show at 16:30 does not have the sideway adjustment screw. Mine really only have the two main bolts, which makes it very hard to adjust precisely. Furthermore it seems like my infeed table is slightly offset sideways (4-5mm) to the output table. Not sure if that is at all possible to adjust.
@@talbech yes that is the older style. Not as easy to adjust but still doable. Some people use clamps or straps to pull or push the rails into place then tighten it down and recheck.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have an old Roland x31 and have found it to be persnickety at best to get aligned. Once it's set, though, it's a pretty nice tool to have in a shop with limited space. Real motors... Unfortunately, support, care, and feeding are lacking, and it is sufficiently different to offer some challenges.
Great walkthrough. I inherited the same vintage X31featured in the video and have a hell of a time trying to align this machine, usually making things worse. Hopefully with the help of this tutorial and a Saturday afternoon (or two), I can get things all squared away.
Thank you very much for this walkthrough! I bought a green one several years ago, and I was not able to figure some things out (especially the rail adjustment). I will start now with building a adjustment help for the rails like the ones on your machine, and check all the other settings. Thank you very much!
Nice walkthrough Elliott. I have found as you stressed, that the 2 adjustment bolts on the lock side of the joiner tables are tricky. I've had my x-31 for about 2 years now and overall am very happy with it. A great quality tool for my small space. Thanks for your effort.
Thanks, this is very helpful. I don't think mine was ever aligned properly. It is from the late 80's. Got it from the wood working show around LA. I remember the guy put it in his pick up and drove it to me from I think if I remember correctly Laguna Beach area. he slid it done on a couple 2 X 12 , in my yard and left. It never never been as accurate as I wanted to be. I bought the bigger sliding table but the sliding table is the worst one as far as alignment.
After a few rounds of alignment I have learned my way around the angled rail adjusters. The biggest tip I can give is once you get close is go slow and do one adjustment at a time and check your progress. I also start low adjust up to the table height that helps.
Thank you for making this video! Do you know if the Robland K26 has similar adjustment options? I'm facing several issues with mine... Can't get the sliding table to run parallel with the blade... Thanks.
@@3bikesfly - Hi, Thank you! So I should pretty much be able to follow the steps you took here, and get the K26 properly calibrated? You do not have any experience with the K26, do you? Thanks again.
@@GuitarNTabs no I don't have any experience with the smaller k26. Yes I think you can follow the steps in the video. I know some k26 don't have height adjustable table saw tops but they are usually made a few mm higher than the jointer tables so you don't have to level them to each other.
Because the saw blade tilts right and I couldn't find a way to cut the angle safely I made a temporary saw fence that slips over the regular fence and holds the wood at the angle I need to cut. Let me know if this helps or not I can make you a video if not.
Thank you for the excellent video, I have one problem, maybe it doesn't matter.... Your saw table has 4 alignment nuts under the bolts, you're able to set the table saw level to the jointer. Mine has only 2 and had the ones closest to the jointer are fixed welded points (from the factory) the table rests on 2,4 mm too high for my jointer....... I cannot adjust low enough to get the saw table level with the jointer, I can only adjust upwards... As a experienced user, does it matter? I'm giving Robland a call too, see if they have any advice... It's pretty lame
If I understand correctly no, having your jointer table lower then the table saw table is not a problem at all. Most of the time my jointer indeed table is left lower because I don't bring the table back up after my last jointing process.
The problem was, that my outfeed table was lower than my table saw. I could not place a straight edge flat across the machine at all. The machine had no way of aligning at all. I solved it though. Did some drilling, grinding and tapping. Now my tablesaw has 4 adjustable bolts like yours and i can actually follow your instructions....
Byrd tool. They just happened to have my size cutter head premade so it was a really fast turnaround. There are a few slightly different cutter heads Robland used over the years so you have to send your cutter head in to them or they can send you drawings of all the heads they know about and you match your head to one of the drawings. I highly recommend getting a helical cutter head.
@@3bikesfly Thanks do much! I picked up the Igaging DigiAlign Set which is what I think you used. I already have a machinist 38” straight edge. Hopefully that will work.
Hi Thanks for the great video....Were you able the change out the bladed cutter head for the helical head or did the machine come with the helical head? If you did change heads, how difficult was it?
I changed the cutter head out for one made by Byrd tool. I bought it through the website mywoodcutter dot com. The head swap is easy enough. You have to lift up the table saw table to get the pulley off the shaft but after that it is easy.
Hello Elliott. I just purchased one of these and have some questions. If you have time I would like to talk about a couple things that I can’t find information on. Since most of the parts where still in box’s, I don’t know where they go
It took me about year to find all the places parts go. What parts do you have questions about? Also there is a online form for x31 on groups.io with lots of info and helpful people.
Omg, this is like old skool motorcycle maintenance. I am looking to buy a combination machine but seeing this I might just go for separate machines as they seem more solid and plain. I don't mind setting it up once, but this X31 seems that it needs a few rounds per year. What are your thoughts on that? Thank you for sharing your experience.
I haven't adjusted this machine since I made this video and it is still holding true. I made this video because I wish there was one when I tried adjusting it before I knew how to do it properly and chased misalignment around the machine. It takes time but it is not hard to do. Also any newer combo machines are easier to adjust so keep your eyes open for them too.
Hi there Elliott. Are you still using the 31 today? You gave me some great pointer which are not on my machine, which I will try to find among the loose items I got with the machine. And have you ever used the head insert on the router to be able to use overhand router cutter heads on the X31? It's the A 9995 combo with a screw where one can fit a 8 mm router bit, and an insert ring for on the cutterhead of the X31. Thanks for the effort. 🎈🍻 Cheers.
No I haven't used the router bit adapter for the shaper, mine didn't come with it. I wonder how well a smaller router bit would cut only spinning at the shaper speed of 6000 rpm vs the higher router speed.
I'm looking at picking up an x31. I'm pretty space constrained so for my setup I would need to move it for use. In your experience would moving the table around throw it out of alignment or would you think once adjusted it would keep alignment with rolling around on the casters
Hey! I own a 2016 NX 310 Pro. And the helical cutter head option has been available since 2017. You have a machine in excellent condition and with a helical head, but at the time of the release of this model, the helical did not exist, and did not exist for 15 years after the end of the production of x31. Where did the helical come from on the machine? Thank you if you answer.
It is made by byrd tool. I bought it through mywoodcutters.com and installed it. I really love it. It was a lot of money but I can't imagine going back to the straight knife head now.
I bought my machine new in 1995 and never aligned it. It moved to a new house, to basement, back to garage with disasterous consequences due to incompetent movers, and there it sits. Robland documentation is incredibly weak on alignment. Your clear procedure should help me return to a finely tuned machine!
@@ajdizzle4shizzle I love mine, just acknowledge it is not the same as stand alone machines. The next closest scm or Felder 5 in 1 is out of most small shops budget. It has a huge bang for your buck and such a small footprint. Of course it has its corks like the alignment but at this price point you can't complain. For hardwood woodworking it is great with sheet goods it definitely leaves something to be desired but I don't build with sheet goods.
Great video, thanks for posting it! Can you say if there's much of a difference between your machine and the older (green) X31's in relation to the adjustment mechanisms?
I know some of the older green ones do not have the sliding table rail adjustments. There are a lot of little changes that are hard to find documentation on but you see in photos.
on the green one the sliding table adjustment is sucks. I have never been able to adjust mine properly. though after this video I may be able to to it. also the table saw fence is sucks.
This was my third time. It held all my adjustments till I changed something. The last time, the one I filmed was because I installed a new cutter head on the planer/jointer.
Ah yes, I've used one of these Rob land machine's. Rob's you of your sanity trying to get them to work accurately. They are engineered around the same philosophy as Felder. Lots of jack screws that drift out of dial in. I tried, I really tried to get it to run accurately and reliably but unlike genuine high quality machinery, this stuff is garbage. Every time you tip up the Jointer tables to run the thicknesser it looses your dial in. The thicknesser bed tends to tip and give uneven thickness. It really is not worth wasting your money on these machines.
That hasn't been my experience. But if I had the opportunity to upgrade to a more modern machine that fits in my tiny space I would. I just haven't found one that is this small.
@@3bikesfly I know. A lot of people get sucked in by the space saving argument and the cost saving. But in practice combination machines are a convoluted compromise. But your advice on the correct dial in procedure is spot on. The easy trick to make space is to get rid of all the useless junk that people keep in their garage. Never use your workspace for storage if it's limited in size.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video! You obviously have an engineer's mind! The techniques you show us here can be used for other alignment situations. Thanks! Much appreciated!
This will help me a ton. Just bought an X31 that I am trying to install in my little workshop.
@@talbech feel Free to reach out with any additional questions.
@@3bikesfly on the plainer how much lower than the outfeed table are you setting your infeed table?
@@talbech do you mean the jointer? On my jointer for alignment I set it even with the out feed table so I can use it as a reference to help level the tablesaw/shaper top. But after alignment I adjust the infeed table to control my cut depth as needed but generally I keep it around 1-2 mm depth of cut.
@@3bikesfly sorry, yes, I did mean the jointer. I set mine at 1,5 mm. Another thing I noticed is that my adjustment mechanism like you show at 16:30 does not have the sideway adjustment screw. Mine really only have the two main bolts, which makes it very hard to adjust precisely. Furthermore it seems like my infeed table is slightly offset sideways (4-5mm) to the output table. Not sure if that is at all possible to adjust.
@@talbech yes that is the older style. Not as easy to adjust but still doable. Some people use clamps or straps to pull or push the rails into place then tighten it down and recheck.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have an old Roland x31 and have found it to be persnickety at best to get aligned. Once it's set, though, it's a pretty nice tool to have in a shop with limited space. Real motors... Unfortunately, support, care, and feeding are lacking, and it is sufficiently different to offer some challenges.
Great walkthrough. I inherited the same vintage X31featured in the video and have a hell of a time trying to align this machine, usually making things worse. Hopefully with the help of this tutorial and a Saturday afternoon (or two), I can get things all squared away.
Damn dude! Good job figuring this thing out. I’ll be referencing this video a lot since I’m going to try to get a used one next week!
Thank you very much for this walkthrough! I bought a green one several years ago, and I was not able to figure some things out (especially the rail adjustment). I will start now with building a adjustment help for the rails like the ones on your machine, and check all the other settings. Thank you very much!
Nice walkthrough Elliott. I have found as you stressed, that the 2 adjustment bolts on the lock side of the joiner tables are tricky. I've had my x-31 for about 2 years now and overall am very happy with it. A great quality tool for my small space. Thanks for your effort.
Thanks, this is very helpful. I don't think mine was ever aligned properly. It is from the late 80's. Got it from the wood working show around LA. I remember the guy put it in his pick up and drove it to me from I think if I remember correctly Laguna Beach area. he slid it done on a couple 2 X 12 , in my yard and left. It never never been as accurate as I wanted to be. I bought the bigger sliding table but the sliding table is the worst one as far as alignment.
After a few rounds of alignment I have learned my way around the angled rail adjusters. The biggest tip I can give is once you get close is go slow and do one adjustment at a time and check your progress. I also start low adjust up to the table height that helps.
Great machine
Thanks for a very helpful video on alignment.
Un grand merci pour votre vidéo excellente elle m’aidera dans mon réglage du rail 👍
GRACIAS POR HACERNOS PARTÍFIPES DE TUS CONOCIMIENTOS
Excellent video. I bought this machine in 1997 and it’s still producing quality projects. What is the cutter head on the jointer? Easy swap out?
It is made by Byrd tool, I bought it through mywoodcutters.com. I found it easy but I do have a lot of experience working on machines.
Thank you for making this video!
Do you know if the Robland K26 has similar adjustment options?
I'm facing several issues with mine... Can't get the sliding table to run parallel with the blade...
Thanks.
@@GuitarNTabs I'm not sure but from what I have seen in photos it looks similar to me.
@@3bikesfly - Hi,
Thank you!
So I should pretty much be able to follow the steps you took here, and get the K26 properly calibrated?
You do not have any experience with the K26, do you?
Thanks again.
@@GuitarNTabs no I don't have any experience with the smaller k26. Yes I think you can follow the steps in the video. I know some k26 don't have height adjustable table saw tops but they are usually made a few mm higher than the jointer tables so you don't have to level them to each other.
Super helpful video, thank you! :) Just wondering how you cut the profile for your zero clearance insert…? I’m struggling to work it out…!
Because the saw blade tilts right and I couldn't find a way to cut the angle safely I made a temporary saw fence that slips over the regular fence and holds the wood at the angle I need to cut. Let me know if this helps or not I can make you a video if not.
Ah, ok - yeah - I think I know what you mean :) Thanks!
Thank you for the excellent video, I have one problem, maybe it doesn't matter.... Your saw table has 4 alignment nuts under the bolts, you're able to set the table saw level to the jointer. Mine has only 2 and had the ones closest to the jointer are fixed welded points (from the factory) the table rests on 2,4 mm too high for my jointer....... I cannot adjust low enough to get the saw table level with the jointer, I can only adjust upwards... As a experienced user, does it matter? I'm giving Robland a call too, see if they have any advice... It's pretty lame
If I understand correctly no, having your jointer table lower then the table saw table is not a problem at all. Most of the time my jointer indeed table is left lower because I don't bring the table back up after my last jointing process.
The problem was, that my outfeed table was lower than my table saw. I could not place a straight edge flat across the machine at all. The machine had no way of aligning at all.
I solved it though. Did some drilling, grinding and tapping. Now my tablesaw has 4 adjustable bolts like yours and i can actually follow your instructions....
Just picked one up. Took all day to get jointer planer knifes adjust watched this video about 10x's very helpful. What cutter head did you go with?
Byrd tool. They just happened to have my size cutter head premade so it was a really fast turnaround. There are a few slightly different cutter heads Robland used over the years so you have to send your cutter head in to them or they can send you drawings of all the heads they know about and you match your head to one of the drawings. I highly recommend getting a helical cutter head.
Can you make a video of you s6s a piece of lumber without any video editing so we can see the setup changes?
That’s so much for this. I just picked up a x31 yesterday. Would you mind sharing the list of calibration tools you use? Many many thanks 🙏
I use a 50 inch straight edge, a table saw alignment kit from Igaging, a indicator on a adjustable magnetic base and a set of feeler gages.
@@3bikesfly Thanks do much! I picked up the Igaging DigiAlign Set which is what I think you used. I already have a machinist 38” straight edge. Hopefully that will work.
Hi
Thanks for the great video....Were you able the change out the bladed cutter head for the helical head or did the machine come with the helical head? If you did change heads, how difficult was it?
I changed the cutter head out for one made by Byrd tool. I bought it through the website mywoodcutter dot com. The head swap is easy enough. You have to lift up the table saw table to get the pulley off the shaft but after that it is easy.
Great video. Next time film in landscape...
Hello Elliott. I just purchased one of these and have some questions. If you have time I would like to talk about a couple things that I can’t find information on. Since most of the parts where still in box’s, I don’t know where they go
It took me about year to find all the places parts go. What parts do you have questions about? Also there is a online form for x31 on groups.io with lots of info and helpful people.
Did you figure it all out? I'm happy to help if you still need it.
Omg, this is like old skool motorcycle maintenance. I am looking to buy a combination machine but seeing this I might just go for separate machines as they seem more solid and plain. I don't mind setting it up once, but this X31 seems that it needs a few rounds per year. What are your thoughts on that? Thank you for sharing your experience.
I haven't adjusted this machine since I made this video and it is still holding true. I made this video because I wish there was one when I tried adjusting it before I knew how to do it properly and chased misalignment around the machine. It takes time but it is not hard to do. Also any newer combo machines are easier to adjust so keep your eyes open for them too.
Hi there Elliott. Are you still using the 31 today?
You gave me some great pointer which are not on my machine, which I will try to find among the loose items I got with the machine.
And have you ever used the head insert on the router to be able to use overhand router cutter heads on the X31?
It's the A 9995 combo with a screw where one can fit a 8 mm router bit, and an insert ring for on the cutterhead of the X31.
Thanks for the effort.
🎈🍻
Cheers.
No I haven't used the router bit adapter for the shaper, mine didn't come with it. I wonder how well a smaller router bit would cut only spinning at the shaper speed of 6000 rpm vs the higher router speed.
@@3bikesfly I have the same question and doubts. When ever I get one, I'll come back with info.
I'm looking at picking up an x31. I'm pretty space constrained so for my setup I would need to move it for use. In your experience would moving the table around throw it out of alignment or would you think once adjusted it would keep alignment with rolling around on the casters
I am in the same situation as you and move mine once or twice a week. Mine doesn't come out of alignment with moving.
I have the factory wheels installed and it rolls easily enough on my plywood floor
Hey!
I own a 2016 NX 310 Pro. And the helical cutter head option has been available since 2017. You have a machine in excellent condition and with a helical head, but at the time of the release of this model, the helical did not exist, and did not exist for 15 years after the end of the production of x31. Where did the helical come from on the machine? Thank you if you answer.
It is made by byrd tool. I bought it through mywoodcutters.com and installed it. I really love it. It was a lot of money but I can't imagine going back to the straight knife head now.
I bought my machine new in 1995 and never aligned it. It moved to a new house, to basement, back to garage with disasterous consequences due to incompetent movers, and there it sits. Robland documentation is incredibly weak on alignment. Your clear procedure should help me return to a finely tuned machine!
I am considering picking up one of these off of Marketplace...How do you like it overall?
@@ajdizzle4shizzle I love mine, just acknowledge it is not the same as stand alone machines. The next closest scm or Felder 5 in 1 is out of most small shops budget. It has a huge bang for your buck and such a small footprint. Of course it has its corks like the alignment but at this price point you can't complain. For hardwood woodworking it is great with sheet goods it definitely leaves something to be desired but I don't build with sheet goods.
Great video!!!
My be picking up a green machine in the coming weeks!!!
...are you by chance in CA?
Yes I am bounce in-between SF and Siskiyou county.
Great video, thanks for posting it! Can you say if there's much of a difference between your machine and the older (green) X31's in relation to the adjustment mechanisms?
I know some of the older green ones do not have the sliding table rail adjustments. There are a lot of little changes that are hard to find documentation on but you see in photos.
on the green one the sliding table adjustment is sucks. I have never been able to adjust mine properly. though after this video I may be able to to it. also the table saw fence is sucks.
Thanks for the video. Do you have any problems with the weight on wood floors. Those combos are usually pretty heavy?
It"s not to bad rolling it around. but if there is a void in the inner plywood it will make a dent in the wood.
Hi Elliot Are your planer table in level with the saw table? Mine (the GreenX31) has the planer table 5 mm below the planer table.
Yes I level the planer tables first then I level the table saw to the planer tables
What cutterhead you have in your jointer/planer? I have LX31 with standard knives in jointer/planer.
I have a byrd tool "shelx" head. It is great.
Ok, thanks, I found the website. At wrong side of the Pond, it seems. Too much fees and tax to ship into EU. :-/
How often do you go through aligning all these surfaces?
This was my third time. It held all my adjustments till I changed something. The last time, the one I filmed was because I installed a new cutter head on the planer/jointer.
Ah yes, I've used one of these Rob land machine's. Rob's you of your sanity trying to get them to work accurately. They are engineered around the same philosophy as Felder. Lots of jack screws that drift out of dial in. I tried, I really tried to get it to run accurately and reliably but unlike genuine high quality machinery, this stuff is garbage. Every time you tip up the Jointer tables to run the thicknesser it looses your dial in.
The thicknesser bed tends to tip and give uneven thickness. It really is not worth wasting your money on these machines.
That hasn't been my experience. But if I had the opportunity to upgrade to a more modern machine that fits in my tiny space I would. I just haven't found one that is this small.
@@3bikesfly
I know. A lot of people get sucked in by the space saving argument and the cost saving. But in practice combination machines are a convoluted compromise.
But your advice on the correct dial in procedure is spot on.
The easy trick to make space is to get rid of all the useless junk that people keep in their garage. Never use your workspace for storage if it's limited in size.