at first i was like too complicated... then i watched it perform... now im blown away... god job captn... i respect the design, very cool... but hard to make under no tool situations...
Hi Michael, love your work, your design and vid is really up at the top. I have built several passive version of stoves and have found that ratio of 5:1 and getting a good airseal between the layers the most critical. the guys looking to power devices using peltier type effect should check out the Powerpot. it isnt too expensive and i reckon it would be a simpler alternative to building a device into the stove... I'll let you know how it goes. cheers from Down under
Best explanation of the woodgas stove burning process. Good on ya mate! How about some video on the construction and assembly of the stove, it would be helpful to those of us not familiar with the inner workings. Thanks
Nice vid Thanks . I think the fan would REALLY do the job in high humidity and altitude . Those days when most wood burns lazy and requires alot of attension .
TLUD = Top-lit Up-draft. It's short-hand for the design of this woodgas stove meaning you light it on the top and the wood-gas is carried upwards. TLUDs can be natural draft (meaning no fan) or fan-forced like this one.
There are any number of woodgas stove designs on youtube that don't use a fan. Personally I think the fan is worth the extra effort as it makes more heat and a more stable flame- i.e. not so affected by wind. It also helps prevent getting soot on the pot and it's easier to light.
I'm making some that burn up to an hour and a half and rolling boil a half gallon in temps down to 10 degrees F(no fan)....... but I have to use wood pellets to get that performance. Sticks don't have a useful energy density. Good job getting it clean, I found the same ratio as you.
Sorry if this question is already answerred.. Have you found if the 5:1 ratio works also with the passive TLUD stoves? And what is the complete ratio for inlet air included (5:1:6 or even more for inlet)?
Thanks- I have a new one now made from stainless steel (with a youtube video) that will last longer has room for more fuel and runs longer. Also, because it's a bit bigger it works ok with the more common simpler design.
Tip: smear a bit of dish detergent on the bottom of your pot before you place it over your stove. After cooking, any soot that settles on your pot will easily wash off. You'd think the soap would just burn but it doesn't. Good how-to video here, thanks for sharing.
Great Work , only one doubt remains in the construction of this stove and is; what is the size of the holes in the bottom of the third can, High has legs
This is not a little too small ? We would need to charge it after how long ? Is it does not consume much fuel ? Sorry for questions, I would build it just to see. It's a bit difficult to recharge because the flame output and input fuels are the same.
Great Video! The outter layer of the can is cool so if you want to place it some where else while the stove still on you didnt get your finger burnt like i do.
This is fan generated and not updraft generated combustion. You might be able to get away from that electric fan if you add or tune more external holes resulting in less orangy flame in the process. By the way, this is a great learning video. Thanks.
I like to call it forced-draft in an upwards direction. I have found all stoves I make work better with a fan than without- producing more heat, more stable flame, less smoke, and more tolerant to wind changes. I've given up worrying about the flame being a bit orange since I made stoves with blue flames that were too hard to keep burning well and easily turned into smoke generators when conditions were less than perfect!
Most excellent, thank you for posting this. I am wondering if there might be a workaround for the fan (losing it). Perhaps a number of slots on the outer can, similar to the main (single) 'entry' one you have, fashioned to direct airflow not only right but also slightly upward. Just a thought.
TLUD = Top-lit Up-draught. This is the general type of this woodgas stove design that means it burns from the top down and the combustion air flows upwards through the fire. Given that I have a fan I'm not even sure it qualifies as TLUD, but the fan is just helping push the air in the direction it would have travelled anyway.
..and you sir, are amazingly perceptive! Just kidding - I'm unworthy - there are heaps of good designs out there. My best stove is still the stainless steel one I made that's shown in another of my videos, but the interest in this video makes me think I should tinker with this design some more. Maybe I could come up with an easier build.
Thanks for your video. I bought a wood gas stove for camping and it looks the business. Nice steel construction and sits together really well. Although there are holes at the top of stove to vent gases for burning; what I've actually seen is very little of what I can scribe as secondary burn. In fact - the majority of the burn is the primary fuel in the centre of the pot creating a yellow flame. I wonder if I were to add a fan to the underside of the stove - if this would draw in air through the bottom vents and force air up the sides - or is this configuration would too close to combustion chamber or not?
@robertsulley I heard it in another RUclips video first (about the smallest tlud fan stove), and eventually found an article confirming this by Paul Anderson et al. He seems to be the main guru on this stuff. My design came about because I was trying to make a small unit that would stay as hot as possible inside to sustain the burning without using insulation.
You don't need many tools. I used scissors and a drill and a hacksaw (for the pot stand) and a soldering iron (for the fan). You can even make do without a drill and just punch holes with a nail or screwdriver or similar. There must be other ways to make a pot stand without using a hacksaw. You may even be able to buy a little battery powered blower of some sort.
very nice vid. where did you find the one to five ratio ? i have a feeling that this ratio want work with non forced air, because not enough air will come in to the primary combustion, when there is no wind blowing. what is your opinion ? thanks
I heard the 1 to 5 ratio from another youtube video that has since been pulled down. It was in reference to a forced air stove- i.e. one with a fan. It has worked out for me as a good starting point, and often I've varied it a bit depending on how well it works and gut feel. It gets you in the ball-park.
The fan makes it burn better. It is easier to start, helps to make less smoke, more heat, a more compact flame that is better directed to the bottom of the pot instead of a tall "wobbly" yellow flame, it is less affected by wind, and it creates less sooty deposits on the pot.
hello, Michael. I am very new to make this type of stove TLUD , to eliminate the carbon content during the process Phyrolisis I tried to make a somewhat higher for the Combustion Chamber. I got the results of the experiment and the flame color for example 70% blue flame and 30% yellow. conditions there is no soot on pot but there are still black from charcoal powder. do you think if the burning is still not perfect? while some people still say if the flame is still a yellow flame color of fire is the burning still not perfect. please. I was very confused in this regard.
The blue flame is best, but I don't think it is required. I only ever achieved it using the Everything Nice design, but that stove didn't perform as well overall as my stainless steel model which never had a blue flame- but also didn't smoke or cause soot. I ended up aiming for what worked best in terms of ease of use and construction. It may be easier to get blue flame in a bigger and hotter stove too.
You mean there's charcoal left in the ashes? That's totally normal - actually the point of TLUD is to produce charcoal which you can use for other purposes like water filtration. If you want to burn up the char too, you can refer to TCHAR videos.
Yes - spare AAA batteries are just another thing you'll need to pack, but they are light - especially lithium ones... I have another video showing a hand-crank that can be used if all batteries are flat though.
garden solar lights have two 3v rechargeble batteries, a cheap n a must have in your kit or better yet get a heat powered setup like the fans for stoves,forgot the name of it?
Michael,i feel stupid for asking but...what does TLUD stand for when talking about the fan?excellent vid btw.i love survival/camping topics,esp anything that's DIY.please post MORE! thnx mate lol...
Have you ever thought of using a thermocouple from a furnace to power the fan. So once the fire is started it will power the fan. "No batteries needed"
Yes- I had a good look at that attractive possibility and did some testing. I found the thermocouples were too expensive and fragile, and required a heatsink that would be too heavy (for a camping stove). It was very difficult to create enough electricity to drive a fan. Also you really need some kind of battery anyway to get it all started and up to operational heat so I gave up on it. Carrying a small battery pack is way more convenient and practical. I settled on making a hand-crank battery re-charger instead (shown in another of my videos).
847MicRoss I tried two 4cm square thermocouples that cost about $20 each (so they could handle the higher temps etc) and I could never get enough electrical power to drive my 5V 120mA fan (i.e. 0.6W). I even tried using ice water to keep the cold side cold. I was using aluminium bar 4cm wide and around 2mm thick to conduct the heat to the hot side and used thermal paste.
847MicRoss I actually used a DC-DC converter to boost the voltage output of the thermocouples to the 5V required for the fan. That is the electronic equivalent of a step up transformer. It could easily generate the 5 Volts but as soon as the fan was connected it dropped way down- i.e. there was not enough power to maintain the voltage - i.e. not enough power to drive the fan. I know the Biolite stove drives a fan from thermocouples so it is possible- I just wasn't able to manage it myself. I must need either more heat flow (e.g. use copper instead of aluminium as in Biolite), shorter heat flow distance, better heat transfer, better thermocouples, or a lower power fan...
Yes - I have tried that. I hate to admit I couldn't get it to work well enough and it was turning out to be too expensive and heavy (with the necessary heat-sink). Another factor is that you need batteries anyway to start it off before the thermoelectric gets hot enough to work.
Young man nice job! Unfortunately, you are forgetting a serious concept of physics. If you want better combustion you do not want to prewarm your combustion air. Hot air carries less dense oxygen than cooler air. This is why all turbochargers on cars have intercoolers to reduce the temperature of the air to make the concentration of oxygen higher per cubic unit of air passing into the combustion chamber which in a car is the cylinder. Again good build.
Turbochargers have intercoolers to increase their efficiency as an engine. That's all about compression and expansion of gases across the temperature range and doesn't apply here. This stove is about simple combustion efficiency and hot things burn more easily.
rach44w- I don't know what help I can offer. I haven't contemplated generating electricity from this before. I assume that jamming a Peltier effect unit in the appropriate place would work but I have no experience there on practicality. I also think it's unlikely I could ever improve on a commercial product like Biolite.
Thanks for your generous comment- I actually have a nicer stainless steel version that's not much harder to build but works better and lasts longer. See the links at the end of the main description.
rach44w- I've done some more research. Ebay sells TEGs (thermo-electric generators) from around $8 for 150'C to $30 for 250'C units. They need a heatsink to keep the cold side cold. Given that expense, plus extra weight and complexity, plus the fact the unit has to power the fan and may have nothing left over, and the fact that the stove only runs for 30min or so I don't think there is any point pursuing this. Just use batteries for the fan - much simpler and lighter.
Uh, no, not really, rocket-stove technology is a different technology. Plus, ceramic insulated rocket stoves aren't backpacker friendly. Trying to hike around with a rocket stove would burn more than my butt.
rach44w- I just had a look at the Biolite, so now I know what you're talking about. It looks pretty high-tech! I assume it uses the Peltier effect. Mine is far simpler and, doesn't generate electricity. The fan supply for mine is just battery powered. Lithium batteries are very light and last ages- or NiMh are ok and rechargeable. I'm sure the electricity generation adds a lot of weight compared to just bringing batteries.
what is the capacity of tin to resist the heat ? and is it long lasting,,what you have used the equipment to get absolute result of carbon monoxide and what are the dissiculties in your stove.how would you take esily ashes from stove...please mail me in shrestha.roman23@hotmail.com..As i am in research about stove in developing countryi like nepal and use tin as an alternate source using from already used tin.I have made a stove as your type, but what are the main thinks to verify the level of CO reduce from this stove..please reply me i am expecting from answer from you as soon as possible.
Tin cans don't last very long. I have another video with a stainless steel version that lasts much better. As for ash, you empty it after each batch- i.e. burn for 30 minutes or so, then let it cool, then empty the remaining charcoal before reloading fuel and starting again. I don't know about CO levels, but I would recommend using it outdoors only.
Thank you for your reply.As I am using Tin in my woodgas stove.As in my view it is a gasifier, what is the difference between gasifier and stove.As In america, i know that people are in research of BIOLITE What is it really?I am using a tin which are wastes in my locality, how could it can be make more convient...
Gasifier means the process creates gas to use as a fuel. In this case the "gas" could also be called "smoke", so the stove is really creating smoke and then burning the smoke. Biolite is a gasifier stove that also creates electricity using an electronic component to convert heat into electricity. Tin is ok, it just doesn't last very long- so designs that use tin need to be very quick to make such as using a punch instead of a drill etc. It will last longer if you can use stainless steel for the inside parts that get the full heat.
Roman man shrestha You can control it a bit- but not much. Too much or too little air will stop the secondary combustion and it will become super smokey.
Your design solves two issues I have with all other "normal" models - preheating the secondary air and insulating the stove itself. Kudos!
at first i was like too complicated... then i watched it perform... now im blown away...
god job captn... i respect the design, very cool... but hard to make under no tool situations...
Hahaha...holy cow...this is the most intricate hobo stove design ever! Awesome!
Really nice design. I like that extra layer letting the air flow longer and make it hotter. Really smart.
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
TLUD's are a lot of fun, and educational too! Your's is a great design and your video is a great explanation of what you've made. Well done!!.
Hi Michael, love your work, your design and vid is really up at the top.
I have built several passive version of stoves and have found that ratio of 5:1 and getting a good airseal between the layers the most critical. the guys looking to power devices using peltier type effect should check out the Powerpot. it isnt too expensive and i reckon it would be a simpler alternative to building a device into the stove... I'll let you know how it goes. cheers from Down under
Best explanation of the woodgas stove burning process. Good on ya mate! How about some video on the construction and assembly of the stove, it would be helpful to those of us not familiar with the inner workings. Thanks
Nice vid Thanks . I think the fan would REALLY do the job in high humidity and altitude . Those days when most wood burns lazy and requires alot of attension .
TLUD = Top-lit Up-draft. It's short-hand for the design of this woodgas stove meaning you light it on the top and the wood-gas is carried upwards. TLUDs can be natural draft (meaning no fan) or fan-forced like this one.
There are any number of woodgas stove designs on youtube that don't use a fan. Personally I think the fan is worth the extra effort as it makes more heat and a more stable flame- i.e. not so affected by wind. It also helps prevent getting soot on the pot and it's easier to light.
I'm making some that burn up to an hour and a half and rolling boil a half gallon in temps down to 10 degrees F(no fan)....... but I have to use wood pellets to get that performance. Sticks don't have a useful energy density. Good job getting it clean, I found the same ratio as you.
+babaloo42 That's good. I'd recommend getting a fan if possible.
The best on RUclips so far.
Good job.
Sorry if this question is already answerred..
Have you found if the 5:1 ratio works also with the passive TLUD stoves? And what is the complete ratio for inlet air included (5:1:6 or even more for inlet)?
Thanks- I have a new one now made from stainless steel (with a youtube video) that will last longer has room for more fuel and runs longer. Also, because it's a bit bigger it works ok with the more common simpler design.
Tip: smear a bit of dish detergent on the bottom of your pot before you place it over your stove. After cooking, any soot that settles on your pot will easily wash off. You'd think the soap would just burn but it doesn't. Good how-to video here, thanks for sharing.
Great Work , only one doubt remains in the construction of this stove and is; what is the size of the holes in the bottom of the third can, High has legs
This is not a little too small ? We would need to charge it after how long ? Is it does not consume much fuel ? Sorry for questions, I would build it just to see. It's a bit difficult to recharge because the flame output and input fuels are the same.
this is a small stove to take hiking. just enough to heat dinner for one or two. see my other video for a better stainless steel version.
I've thrown a glance. Thank you. It consumes a lot of fuel if it's for use for hours ?
Will it work if no fan is used ?
Great Video! The outter layer of the can is cool so if you want to place it some where else while the stove still on you didnt get your finger burnt like i do.
This is fan generated and not updraft generated combustion. You might be able to get away from that electric fan if you add or tune more external holes resulting in less orangy flame in the process. By the way, this is a great learning video. Thanks.
I like to call it forced-draft in an upwards direction. I have found all stoves I make work better with a fan than without- producing more heat, more stable flame, less smoke, and more tolerant to wind changes. I've given up worrying about the flame being a bit orange since I made stoves with blue flames that were too hard to keep burning well and easily turned into smoke generators when conditions were less than perfect!
Actually, lots of TLUDs have small fans, like the well-known Phillips model
Most excellent, thank you for posting this. I am wondering if there might be a workaround for the fan (losing it). Perhaps a number of slots on the outer can, similar to the main (single) 'entry' one you have, fashioned to direct airflow not only right but also slightly upward. Just a thought.
TLUD = Top-lit Up-draught. This is the general type of this woodgas stove design that means it burns from the top down and the combustion air flows upwards through the fire. Given that I have a fan I'm not even sure it qualifies as TLUD, but the fan is just helping push the air in the direction it would have travelled anyway.
Great Job~
If everyone were like you EVERYTHING we use would be far better*
Very interesting. I wonder if I can make a variation using a Heineken mini Keg
..and you sir, are amazingly perceptive! Just kidding - I'm unworthy - there are heaps of good designs out there. My best stove is still the stainless steel one I made that's shown in another of my videos, but the interest in this video makes me think I should tinker with this design some more. Maybe I could come up with an easier build.
Thanks for your video. I bought a wood gas stove for camping and it looks the business. Nice steel construction and sits together really well. Although there are holes at the top of stove to vent gases for burning; what I've actually seen is very little of what I can scribe as secondary burn. In fact - the majority of the burn is the primary fuel in the centre of the pot creating a yellow flame. I wonder if I were to add a fan to the underside of the stove - if this would draw in air through the bottom vents and force air up the sides - or is this configuration would too close to combustion chamber or not?
any chance to avoid soot on a wood a portable rocket stove with out adding any fan?
I have heard someone suggesting rubbing soap on bottom of saucepan. The real fix is better combustion by using a woodgas stove design.
@robertsulley I heard it in another RUclips video first (about the smallest tlud fan stove), and eventually found an article confirming this by Paul Anderson et al. He seems to be the main guru on this stuff. My design came about because I was trying to make a small unit that would stay as hot as possible inside to sustain the burning without using insulation.
You don't need many tools. I used scissors and a drill and a hacksaw (for the pot stand) and a soldering iron (for the fan). You can even make do without a drill and just punch holes with a nail or screwdriver or similar. There must be other ways to make a pot stand without using a hacksaw. You may even be able to buy a little battery powered blower of some sort.
Michael, please make one for me and I'll pay for it.
have you tried using this under a tarp or semi-contained shelter?
will flame last long enough to boil for around five minutes, without adding or do you havr to add?
Should last around 10-15 minutes. You aren't supposed to add more fuel after you start but you can add a little bit. It just might start smoking.
This design needs a fan. Note this is an older design- my stainless steel version featured on my other videos is simpler and works better than this.
Really good video, nice design too. Where did you learn about the air ratios for a good burn?
very nice vid.
where did you find the one to five ratio ?
i have a feeling that this ratio want work with non forced air, because not enough air will come in to the primary combustion, when there is no wind blowing.
what is your opinion ?
thanks
I heard the 1 to 5 ratio from another youtube video that has since been pulled down. It was in reference to a forced air stove- i.e. one with a fan. It has worked out for me as a good starting point, and often I've varied it a bit depending on how well it works and gut feel. It gets you in the ball-park.
You definitely need bigger holes when you don't have a fan.
Is there a video on the construction
No. I have made other better stainless steel ones in other videos but again, no detailed instructions.
Good design. I've made a few of these things myself. I was wondering why you need a fan. There's plenty of heat without it.
Thanks
The fan makes it burn better. It is easier to start, helps to make less smoke, more heat, a more compact flame that is better directed to the bottom of the pot instead of a tall "wobbly" yellow flame, it is less affected by wind, and it creates less sooty deposits on the pot.
OK thanks
hello, Michael. I am very new to make this type of stove TLUD , to eliminate the carbon content during the process Phyrolisis I tried to make a somewhat higher for the Combustion Chamber. I got the results of the experiment and the flame color for example 70% blue flame and 30% yellow. conditions there is no soot on pot but there are still black from charcoal powder. do you think if the burning is still not perfect? while some people still say if the flame is still a yellow flame color of fire is the burning still not perfect.
please. I was very confused in this regard.
The blue flame is best, but I don't think it is required. I only ever achieved it using the Everything Nice design, but that stove didn't perform as well overall as my stainless steel model which never had a blue flame- but also didn't smoke or cause soot. I ended up aiming for what worked best in terms of ease of use and construction. It may be easier to get blue flame in a bigger and hotter stove too.
You mean there's charcoal left in the ashes? That's totally normal - actually the point of TLUD is to produce charcoal which you can use for other purposes like water filtration. If you want to burn up the char too, you can refer to TCHAR videos.
Hi,
DO you, could make a PDF in the dimensions one (or all ) of the can labels?
best,
JJ
Btw...what did you soak the little sticks in before you lit them on fire? I couldn't hear you clearly.
I believe he said "meths" which is methylated spirits or in American English would translate to denatured alcohol.
Super keren👍
Ikut belajar membuat tungku gan🙏🤝
Where do we get a 5 volt battery in the forest if the battery empty??
Yes - spare AAA batteries are just another thing you'll need to pack, but they are light - especially lithium ones... I have another video showing a hand-crank that can be used if all batteries are flat though.
One could ask a similarly pointless question for most other items we take camping.
garden solar lights have two 3v rechargeble batteries, a cheap n a must have in your kit or better yet get a heat powered setup like the fans for stoves,forgot the name of it?
Tech geek forest gnomes. You wouldn't believe the technology they have stashed away in their hollow logs.
Скажи, а сколько банок использовал? 4 или 3?
Michael,i feel stupid for asking but...what does TLUD stand for when talking about the fan?excellent vid btw.i love survival/camping topics,esp anything that's DIY.please post MORE! thnx mate lol...
even in 2021, awesome made very good
Thank you so much for this explicit video
Have you ever thought of using a thermocouple from a furnace to power the fan. So once the fire is started it will power the fan. "No batteries needed"
Yes- I had a good look at that attractive possibility and did some testing. I found the thermocouples were too expensive and fragile, and required a heatsink that would be too heavy (for a camping stove). It was very difficult to create enough electricity to drive a fan. Also you really need some kind of battery anyway to get it all started and up to operational heat so I gave up on it. Carrying a small battery pack is way more convenient and practical. I settled on making a hand-crank battery re-charger instead (shown in another of my videos).
Fragility is a possibility, but we bough a thermocouple for a standing pilot furnace at menards for three dollars and some change.
847MicRoss I tried two 4cm square thermocouples that cost about $20 each (so they could handle the higher temps etc) and I could never get enough electrical power to drive my 5V 120mA fan (i.e. 0.6W). I even tried using ice water to keep the cold side cold. I was using aluminium bar 4cm wide and around 2mm thick to conduct the heat to the hot side and used thermal paste.
I know it would start to loose practicality, and may not be electronically correct, but what about using a type of step up transformer?
847MicRoss I actually used a DC-DC converter to boost the voltage output of the thermocouples to the 5V required for the fan. That is the electronic equivalent of a step up transformer. It could easily generate the 5 Volts but as soon as the fan was connected it dropped way down- i.e. there was not enough power to maintain the voltage - i.e. not enough power to drive the fan. I know the Biolite stove drives a fan from thermocouples so it is possible- I just wasn't able to manage it myself. I must need either more heat flow (e.g. use copper instead of aluminium as in Biolite), shorter heat flow distance, better heat transfer, better thermocouples, or a lower power fan...
Really nice design , perfect
The aim was for it to stay cool. In practise, it is cooler, but it still eventually gets too hot to touch.
Pretty cool
this would be useful as a space heater for a cabin/large tent ,,, with a cheap clay flower pot turned upside down filled with ceramic wool...
what does TLUD stand for please?
wood pellets? please do a vid.
I was thinking about it n what if you put a THERMOELECTRIC POWER n heat sink on it no need for batteries, don`t be shy to try that
Yes - I have tried that. I hate to admit I couldn't get it to work well enough and it was turning out to be too expensive and heavy (with the necessary heat-sink). Another factor is that you need batteries anyway to start it off before the thermoelectric gets hot enough to work.
Is the fan metal ?
No, just a cheap plastic fan.
hello my friend first thanks for video l try it its true it work well like yours no smell no smoke but it is normal that l smell burn thanks
Not sure what you are asking- there is no smoke and normally not any noticeable burning smell.
l do it it works great no smoke but smell like hell maybe the types of wood?
jonathan gauci or whatever the can is lined with from the manufacturer, like bpa for one thing. Will probably take several burns to remove that.
nice job! might make one myself based off your design
Young man nice job! Unfortunately, you are forgetting a serious concept of physics. If you want better combustion you do not want to prewarm your combustion air. Hot air carries less dense oxygen than cooler air. This is why all turbochargers on cars have intercoolers to reduce the temperature of the air to make the concentration of oxygen higher per cubic unit of air passing into the combustion chamber which in a car is the cylinder. Again good build.
Turbochargers have intercoolers to increase their efficiency as an engine. That's all about compression and expansion of gases across the temperature range and doesn't apply here. This stove is about simple combustion efficiency and hot things burn more easily.
Great video, Excellent work!
nice stove, thanx for the 5 to 1 tip!
OK....now i want to find one of those Russian nesting dolls and turn it into a wood gassifier stove. Thanks for great vid.
U should have a instruction vid on making it
you sir, are a genius!!!!
very good JOB
Wow Good job
I'll make one soon thank you
fantastc camping stove. iwould like to built one for myself.
great stove
rach44w- I don't know what help I can offer. I haven't contemplated generating electricity from this before. I assume that jamming a Peltier effect unit in the appropriate place would work but I have no experience there on practicality. I also think it's unlikely I could ever improve on a commercial product like Biolite.
I have another video that shows my stainless steel version - it would be a better one for making...
great job !!!
Thanks for your generous comment- I actually have a nicer stainless steel version that's not much harder to build but works better and lasts longer. See the links at the end of the main description.
very cool i will try this
rach44w- I've done some more research. Ebay sells TEGs (thermo-electric generators) from around $8 for 150'C to $30 for 250'C units. They need a heatsink to keep the cold side cold. Given that expense, plus extra weight and complexity, plus the fact the unit has to power the fan and may have nothing left over, and the fact that the stove only runs for 30min or so I don't think there is any point pursuing this. Just use batteries for the fan - much simpler and lighter.
It must burn your butt just knowing the same thing can be accomplished with rocket stove technology w/o a battery or fan.
Uh, no, not really, rocket-stove technology is a different technology. Plus, ceramic insulated rocket stoves aren't backpacker friendly. Trying to hike around with a rocket stove would burn more than my butt.
Yaddahay smarmalite. Nice one! I agree!
Yaddahay smarmalite yep, that's right. Sorry!
rach44w- I just had a look at the Biolite, so now I know what you're talking about. It looks pretty high-tech! I assume it uses the Peltier effect. Mine is far simpler and, doesn't generate electricity. The fan supply for mine is just battery powered. Lithium batteries are very light and last ages- or NiMh are ok and rechargeable. I'm sure the electricity generation adds a lot of weight compared to just bringing batteries.
great
Если батареек нет, огня не будет? Глупая печка!
very nice i am making for commen people
rocket stove
what is the capacity of tin to resist the heat ? and is it long lasting,,what you have used the equipment to get absolute result of carbon monoxide and what are the dissiculties in your stove.how would you take esily ashes from stove...please mail me in shrestha.roman23@hotmail.com..As i am in research about stove in developing countryi like nepal and use tin as an alternate source using from already used tin.I have made a stove as your type, but what are the main thinks to verify the level of CO reduce from this stove..please reply me i am expecting from answer from you as soon as possible.
Tin cans don't last very long. I have another video with a stainless steel version that lasts much better. As for ash, you empty it after each batch- i.e. burn for 30 minutes or so, then let it cool, then empty the remaining charcoal before reloading fuel and starting again. I don't know about CO levels, but I would recommend using it outdoors only.
Thank you for your reply.As I am using Tin in my woodgas stove.As in my view it is a gasifier, what is the difference between gasifier and stove.As In america, i know that people are in research of BIOLITE What is it really?I am using a tin which are wastes in my locality, how could it can be make more convient...
Gasifier means the process creates gas to use as a fuel. In this case the "gas" could also be called "smoke", so the stove is really creating smoke and then burning the smoke. Biolite is a gasifier stove that also creates electricity using an electronic component to convert heat into electricity. Tin is ok, it just doesn't last very long- so designs that use tin need to be very quick to make such as using a punch instead of a drill etc. It will last longer if you can use stainless steel for the inside parts that get the full heat.
As i am in process to use speedmeter to control the fan.and to control the flame.Is really possible to control flame while burning?
Roman man shrestha You can control it a bit- but not much. Too much or too little air will stop the secondary combustion and it will become super smokey.
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