Paul, I just dropped by to say your technique is awesome! Been trying for 3 days to light some dry grass, without any success, mostly because my strike was too long (I'd usually start from thumb depression and work my way down). So the sparks were too erratic and easily put out. It was a great morale-booster to finally try your way and see it work like a charm. Thanks a lot :)
Brilliant video and a very effective technique. I'm a big fan Paul, hopefully some day I will be able to come to Frontier Bushcraft to learn from you guys. Many thanks, Mike
Thank you for the excellent explanation. Before, I was striking the ferro rod the whole length, which created a lot of sparks flying everywhere, impressive indeed, but with limited success, usually taking a lot of strikes before the tinder lit. Your technique makes a lot of sense, as well as your explanation, which I enjoyed. Take care.
Just like your courses, these videos are full off no nonsense facts about bushcraft which is very much appreciated these days! Great video Paul thanks for sharing!
Thanks Sean. We do our best to provide solid content and deliver it clearly in everything we present. So, thanks for that validation! Glad you liked it and thanks for the feedback.
Great video as usual. Subscribed. I usually jab my fire steel right into the tinder pile / birds nest so it kind of surrounds the tip of the fire steel. What it does for me is that it holds the tinder in place as during mild to breezy conditions. Most of the sparks fire right into the bundle. I'm going to try this technique too.
Very nicely done. I enjoy the different approaches to bushcraft from the UK and whenever I find a new channel I always learn some new techniques to demo with my Boy Scouts. Thanks again for a good tip presented clearly.
joesphx19 Thanks for your feedback. I'm glad you found my channel and this video had something to offer. I hope your Scout troop enjoy implementing this technique. Warm regards, Paul
I had been trying to create a spark like Paul shows in the video with my two cheap firesteels using my Mora companion to no avail. I squared the spine on my knife, tried countless hand and finger variations, speeds, angles etc. Today I took delivery of my light my fire steel scraped the paint of the steel and created a spark first time with this method. Glad to know it was not my technique but rather bad firesteels. Hope this helps someone else.
Another Great Video Paul I Have Been Watching You All Evening And Have Been Picking Up Alot Of Useful Techniques . Your Such An Inspiration Thank You For Sharing. Regards Bobby
Macho Deth Thank you. Glad the video proved illuminating. I think you'll like the shaving technique. It's a good get-out-jail-free card in damp conditions. ATB, Paul
This video was excellent! Great!! I was watching together with my grandson. And he had bought a new spark steel today. Best regards from Kungsbacka in Sweden!
Thank you, Paul. Yes, we put a piece of paper in the sink and managed to get it on fire with the new Swedish steel. This was a great success for both of us. We keep tracking your videos. They are really instructive. Keep up the good work! Warm regards, Oliver and Lasse, gf
Thanks for your feedback Ted. Please do practice this. The key thing in not knocking your material flying is creating that (small) gap by supporting the Fireflash with your finger, then being really controlled with how you push the spark off the end of the steel. As you see, I don't use a lot of speed - it's more important to scrape off plenty of metal. Just use enough speed to create a spark and maintain control. Let me know how you get on. Best, Paul
I'm sure it will. I've got a Spyderco Bushcrafter that I'll use to try it. Once I'm good, I'll post it and share with others on my channel but mention where I got it from. Thanks!
There are many ways to skin a cat as they say but this method allows you to deliver a concentrated, big spark with precision. I hope it serves you well.
Brilliant technique. First time I've seen this. I have been using the stationary knife/pull-the-firesteel-back technique. I like the control your method gives. Thanks.
nicely done, I was one to draw the steel against my knife at close range but found I disturbed my tinder pile on occasion. your method is really accurate and controlled I like it thank you from another uk bushcraft enthusiast.
+Keith Peckett Hi Keith, thanks for your feedback on this video and the technique it shows. I'm happy to read you found this useful and I hope this method serves you well. Warm regards, Paul
Great technique. And heres one about the plastic handles on the ferro rods, remove it and take the best fatwood piece you can find thats totally soaked in resin as in all red and carve a new handle of it, that way you always got a good tinder close by if you cant find anything else to use, once you carved the handle its gonna be all sticky, but the surface will dry up in about a week and contain the rest of the resin in the wood fresh, and to fasten the rod in the new handle, simply drill a tight fitting hole and squeeze in the rod, the resin will glue it stuck to the handle after it dried for a couple of days, I do it to all my rods and it saved me getting a fire started when the rain is poring down, a 2x3cm handle will give you shavings for a good 10-30 fires (depending how you use shavings), and when its gone, just carve a new fatwood handle and pop it on, can of course drill a hole sideways in it for a lanyard aswell :)
I carved my own handle with Hazel, if you use the exact same diameter drill bit on green wood then the wood will encase around the rod and close in nice and tight when drying, you can already notice the stiffness of the rod the very next day, fatwood is a great idea but I will have to just buy another blank rod before I do that, the hazel one is my go-to and I've just spent £340 over the last three weeks buying gear so have to save the pennies now! cheers Bushman AllOutDoors
I never did like handles, simply because what steel you've adhered into the handle you can't use. In my pack I carry a 1/2 x 6 inch rod (because it was two for the price of one on Amazon through world of fire) and in my PSK is a 3/8 x 4 inch rod from firesteel.com. Neither of them have handles and I've never had any problems. If you think you all need one, horses for courses. I cast my lot among those who don't. I do have to say, though, that carrying resinous wood is a champion idea for fire starter and no one should be without it.
Fantastic video Paul! This technique is by far the best practice for anyone using the fero rod. Not only does it save on mashing your prepared material around, but I think its also the most efficient method for getting the most out of the fero rod itself over its lifetime, using less than any other method of striking it, would you agree?
Thanks for your feedback! It's definitely the most efficient way to put a spark exactly where you want it. What I've noticed is that once people get the hang of this technique, they get their tinder lit on the first or second strike. Even though the method in the video does advocate taking off a good amount of material to create the biggest spark possible, compared to how most untutored people bash away, striking the rod repeatedly, creating a shower of diffuse sparks and eventually disturbing the tinder, then yes it will increase the life of your Firesteel.
Hi David, yes I find it much more efficient - both in terms of getting a fire going but also in terms of not striking away at the FireSteel repeatedly and taking metal off it unnecessarily. Hope you find it works well for you too. All the best, Paul.
I love your thumb push method; it's brilliant. I will be using it for most of my fire making from now on, however, the Swedish firesteels are way too overpriced. I have a bag of Ferro rods that I paid a fraction of the price (both hard & softer steels) that work just as well or better. Most peo who have trouble w a Ferro rod is either improper technique, the wrong scraper or the wrong tinder. (The only way I'd have a Swedish Ferro rod is if it was a gift.) Any way, This vid is very informative and your manner of instruction excellent n very easy to understand thank you. Peace.
@Joel Glyn-Davies Paul is not using the spine of the knife to scrap with. The only part that touches the rod is the beveled edge of the knife. From the tip backwards to where the spine begins. Really, this technique is only good for scandi grind as others either have little to no bevel which does not allow enough surface contact to scrap with. Hope this helps.
Dutch1722 Hi there, thanks for your comment. Glad this is working for you and thanks for the info on the specific knives you have tried. I'm sure this will be useful to other people too. Warm regards, Paul.
Paul it turn out that my self I do the same carving in my ferrorod just a bit higher...and I used that for more then 30 years first I start whit a welder torch tricker yes the tiny one but in those days the big one was not on the market yet ..
Hello Paul are you using a Becker knife,and would you have a box of matches and a Bic lighter in your gear bag.? I have a big collection of Scandinavian knives Helle martini Mora but the one that I have in my game bag is the Mora companion for field dressing Deer and rabbits.The rest of the knives are in my gun room in a display cabinet.I'm a knife collecter the same as other people collect stamps.Trying to decide between the Mora Survival black or the Enzo trapper any ideas or advice would be great,again best video I've seen on this topic.Thank you my friend.
Nice vid! I use similar techniques with my firesteels. Never understood why people use "uncontrolled" methods (so to speak) and wind up having to use more material up diminishing the life of their firesteel. Nice accent by the way! Always loved those suave British and Australian accents! :)
I like carrying a "British wick" and a 10 ml bottle of oil. That will take off REALLY quick with a fire steel. One more thing, I'm subbing to your channel.
Hi Paul, I'm not sure if maybe Mora has changed their spine design since they produced the Mora Companion you used, but this method does not work on the 10+ Mora knives that I own. The spines seem to be left too unfinished and rounded to make a spark this way (even using the portion of the spine that's behind the Scandi bevel near the tip as you show here). The only way I can get a spark like this is if the very tip of the knife happens to dig into the fire steel. This results in dulling the tip, which I'm sure is not favorable lol. Not sure if you might have another suggestion? Mora's are some of my favorite knives, but I've always thought their biggest weakness was not being able to effectively strike a fire steel. I wish Mora would just produce all of their outdoor knives with squared off spines! Thanks Paul! Great videos BTW, I've subscribed! =)
***** Hey Dan, That's a very good question. The Mora in the video is a standard Mora Companion but please read on.... We hand out scores, if not hundreds of Mora Companion knives every year on Frontier Bushcraft courses and it's true the backs of all of them are quite rounded and not squared off. I've also noticed in recent years that the bevel width at the tip has become quite variable from one batch to the next. This makes the area where the bevel meets the back/spine really very small in some instances. What I have found in every case I have tried and when I have also directed students to do the same, is that sharpening the knife on a bench stone and getting a well-defined right angle between the bevel and the spine towards the tip really helps. It's still not as good as a typical "bushcraft" knife with a wider bevel and really squared off spine. What is much better, however, is the Mora Companion Heavy Duty, which has a 3.2mm blade thickness flat spine and nice, squared off edges. A final point regarding the standard Companion - if you do find yourself using more tip than spine, you also run the risk of slipping off the FireSteel and stabbing one of your digits, so it's best avoided for that reason too. With the standard Companion, one option is to take a metal to the back to square it off. I hope this helps. All the best, Paul.
Paul Kirtley Hi Paul, Thanks for the reply! It's funny that you mentioned the fact that it's easy to stab yourself using the tip portion of the Companion to strike the fire steel. I came very close a few times (too close for my liking), especially since I keep my blades lubricated with WD-40 and they are slightly slick! I also have about 7 Mora Heavy Duty knives and you are right, they do have a much more "finished" spine, however I've found the spine on these knives are still not sharp enough to get sparks from the fire steel the way they come out of the box. Also, I didn't quite understand your last sentence, "With the standard Companion, one option is to take a metal to the back to square it off." I don't understand what you meant by "a metal"? Did you mean a mill file? Thanks again for the help Paul! I've already begun watching all 22 vids on your website!
Hi Dan, A file that is suitable for working hardened metal, such as extranet.snaeurope.com/prodblock.aspx?CATALOGUEID=5&ProductBlockID=555 Cheers, Paul
Paul Kirtley Hi Paul, I'm sorry but the link you provided doesn't seem to work. It just brings me to an SNA Europe page that wants a username and password. Were you trying to refer me to a picture?
Hi Dan, the link is no longer working for me either. Try this one instead: www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-homeowners-dual-cut-metal-file-8/60320 Cheers, Paul
Great video Paul, do you think the knife plays a part in getting good sparks? my Condor Bushlore knife is kind of soft and doesn't have a great edge on the spine. do you thing that plays a part?
Sure, this is a smart and effective use of a fire steel, but the wild flailing of hands, blade, and ferro, and showers of sparks flying everywhere but onto the tinder is far more entertaining--like a miniature 4th of July or Guy Fawkes Day celebration! LOL Thanks, Paul, for such a well done tutorial.
Hi Paul, I've got a new firesteel after somehow breaking my old one. How long does it take before a new firesteel starts producing some proper sparks? I have read that the more worn it is the better. I get weak sparks by simply striking it and using the technique from your video I can shave off material but no spark! Cheers Nige.
Ouch! Yep, I've done that before too! ;) When the FireSteel is new it is coated with a protective lacquer, which helps prevent it oxidising while in storage. 1/ With a couple of scrapes, you can remove this from the area of the steel you want to strike the spark (it will go from dull to shiny). 2/ If you are removing metal from the FireSteel but not attaining sparks, then the issue is not pressure but speed. Increase the speed of your scrape while maintaining the pressure. There is a point at which this will create a spark. Too slow and it won't, however much you dig in. Hope this helps Nige! All the best, Paul
I have a problem, i grinded the back of my Mora Classic 2 knife so i could use it with a firesteel, but now it mostly just shaves big shavings off the firesteel, and rarely gives any sparks, what should i do?
Hi Paul! When it comes to firelighting devices, the swedish firesteel tends to be the number one solution in the bushcraft community. I have tried it extensively with excellent results, but I'm always coming back to the Doan's magnesium bar. Can't explain why but I seem to prefer it just because the 2 separate steps (shaving the material and sparking). Did you ever tried it? I'm not a beginner anymore but I'm thinking maybe for a beginner, it would be easier to have these 2 separate steps of shaving the magnesium -without accidently sparking on it- and THEN, turning the thing over and sparking the pile of shavings in a more controlled and error-proof manner. Excellent vid! C.
+Sean Ditch Not in the way I'm using it here but it is only a small area which will work well, just behind the tip. In my experience, the depth of bevels at this point on a Mora is variable and can sometimes be very small, increasing the chance of you pricking your finger with the tip. Flattening the back of a new Mora, where it is somewhat rounded, with a metal file creates a much larger right-angled edge between the side of the knife and the back, which works more consistently. But once you have sharpened the knife a few times and the bevel width increased - which it will if it was too narrow at the tip - makes the technique I show in the video more viable. ATB, Paul
Right on Paul, I also carry a Magnesium Rod, It really comes in handy in wet conditions, that Magnesium burns very hot, , , I saw pouches of Magnesium sold, I don't have that, but I have two real large Rods if it, infact it will burn in water, , ,
Hey bud, great video. However my friend and I are having trouble with this technique. We're both using Mora's (1x companion and 1 x clipper) and Web-Tex Firesteels - yes we're aware it could be the naff steel. Any tips? How much pressure do we use? Do you push with the 'firesteel' thumb, or is it mainly pressured with the knife wrist? And tips would be great - many thanks. Great video!!!
Mad Man Mike Productions Apologies for the slow reply. Very difficult to keep up with all comments across all videos, particularly using RUclips's mobile app. I just miss things. Pressure is from both thumbs, nothing much from the wrist. It is harder with a Mora as the bevel is not very wide. You need to a feel a good "bite" from the back of the bevel into the steel. If you are not getting this, then sharpen your knife, making sure the back of the bevel is nice and square. Hope you understand what I mean?...
Hi Paul, Thank you for the reply. Will keep trying it. I've already tried filing the spine of my Mora near the handle to get a 'striking' area. SOME success... will keep practicing, lol.
James Tamlyn Thanks for your comment. Glad you found this one useful. Re using the section towards the end of the firesteel - well you'll wear this down more quickly than the rest but it does not waste the rest because once the end is worn down you just move back and do the same further up the steel. The steel effectively becomes shorter but you still use all the material, just in a different order if you like :-) Hope this helps. ATB, Paul
Many thanks for the video Paul! It will be very useful to improve my skills. Just a question, do you like more the "mischmetal" or the "ferrocerium" rods? I mean those that make large burning blobs of metal with few sparks or those that make only a LOT of sparks?
Paolo Stefani Hi Paolo, thanks for your feedback. Glad this will prove useful to you. Are any rods on the market actually just mischmetal? It's very soft before you alloy it with iron to make ferrocerium...
Paul Kirtley Yes, you're right Paul, it's one of those times when the common saying is not really correct. Probably, as far as I have read around, they only have a different amount of magnesium, but my chemistry memories are very weak to confirm this:) I have found, from some chinese sellers, the "big blob" type, also Going Gear was selling those in the USA. The common "Swedish ferro rods" seems always of the "many sparks" type. (Yes, I have bought probably too many...) Cheers, Paolo
Paolo Stefani I typically use the Swedish FireSteel or very similar. Quite hard as you know. They do create a shower of sparks but as you can see in the video above you can also drop a big spark in one spot. I'm happy with that! :-)
a flint and steel is using a piece if steel and a flint stone to make sparks, and usually into material like charcloth where it's guaranteed to catch. I'll be doing a video on the flint and steel soon :)
+Wyatt Walker Hi Wyatt, thanks for your question. While both a modern firesteel (a.k.a ferro rod) and a traditional flint & steel ignite a fire via the production of sparks, they are different devices. The technique for the use of each differs, as does the range of materials that can be used with each. In some cases, while a material can be used with either a modern Firesteel or a traditional Flint & Steel, the preparation of the material being used can also differ to suit the different device. The following video will help clarify things: ruclips.net/video/kteSUFEplWk/видео.html All the best, Paul
Diwani Kamatoden if you have the tools you can buy blade blanks which you can then fit your own handle to, Condor do a not bad Bushlore blade blank which is similar although a bit thinner across the spine.
Paul, I just dropped by to say your technique is awesome! Been trying for 3 days to light some dry grass, without any success, mostly because my strike was too long (I'd usually start from thumb depression and work my way down). So the sparks were too erratic and easily put out. It was a great morale-booster to finally try your way and see it work like a charm. Thanks a lot :)
Brilliant video and a very effective technique.
I'm a big fan Paul, hopefully some day I will be able to come to Frontier Bushcraft to learn from you guys.
Many thanks,
Mike
Thanks Mike. I enjoy your videos too. Would indeed be good to meet up one day. ATB, Paul
Many thanks! It would be an honor to meet you Paul. Your an inspiration and it would be great to meet up at some stage.
***** can i meet you both?
Thank you for the excellent explanation. Before, I was striking the ferro rod the whole length, which created a lot of sparks flying everywhere, impressive indeed, but with limited success, usually taking a lot of strikes before the tinder lit. Your technique makes a lot of sense, as well as your explanation, which I enjoyed. Take care.
Just like your courses, these videos are full off no nonsense facts about bushcraft which is very much appreciated these days!
Great video Paul thanks for sharing!
Thanks Sean. We do our best to provide solid content and deliver it clearly in everything we present. So, thanks for that validation! Glad you liked it and thanks for the feedback.
Great video as usual. Subscribed. I usually jab my fire steel right into the tinder pile / birds nest so it kind of surrounds the tip of the fire steel. What it does for me is that it holds the tinder in place as during mild to breezy conditions. Most of the sparks fire right into the bundle. I'm going to try this technique too.
Very nice i use the same technique,this also extends the life of the firesteel.
Thanks Reggie, glad to hear you are on the same page...
Even after being on your course I found that very useful, Paul, thanks. Technique development and better control, so I am practising here again!
Great stuff Steve. Thanks for the feedback. Hope you are well. Warm regards, Paul.
Very nicely done. I enjoy the different approaches to bushcraft from the UK and whenever I find a new channel I always learn some new techniques to demo with my Boy Scouts. Thanks again for a good tip presented clearly.
joesphx19 Thanks for your feedback. I'm glad you found my channel and this video had something to offer. I hope your Scout troop enjoy implementing this technique. Warm regards, Paul
Very effective looking. I never thought you could make shavings like this without lighting them. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was useful
I had been trying to create a spark like Paul shows in the video with my two cheap firesteels using my Mora companion to no avail. I squared the spine on my knife, tried countless hand and finger variations, speeds, angles etc. Today I took delivery of my light my fire steel scraped the paint of the steel and created a spark first time with this method. Glad to know it was not my technique but rather bad firesteels. Hope this helps someone else.
Brilliant vid thanks Paul,I've never seen it done so well.
Cheers Billy
Another Great Video Paul I Have Been Watching You All Evening And Have Been Picking Up Alot Of Useful Techniques . Your Such An Inspiration Thank You For Sharing. Regards Bobby
Thanks Bobby.
very useful video, not everyone is a wizard with a firesteel. I have never heard of shaving your steel before ignition, very crafty. kudos
Macho Deth Thank you. Glad the video proved illuminating. I think you'll like the shaving technique. It's a good get-out-jail-free card in damp conditions. ATB, Paul
Learnt so much watching this. Many thanks
I truly love this technique!😃
It demands a bit of practice, but after that it’s superior to any other method!
Many thanks for this tutorial!🙏.
Thanks for sharing your excellent knowledge Paul. I'm learning new techniques everyday. I absorb more by watching your videos.
+Sri Savoor Thank you for your feedback. You are very welcome. I'm glad you are getting so much from my videos. Warm regards, Paul
This video was excellent! Great!! I was watching together with my grandson. And he had bought a new spark steel today. Best regards from Kungsbacka in Sweden!
Hej Lasse (and grandson!). I'm happy you both enjoyed this video. I hope your grandson has a good time using his spark steel :-) Warm regards, Paul
Thank you, Paul. Yes, we put a piece of paper in the sink and managed to get it on fire with the new Swedish steel. This was a great success for both of us. We keep tracking your videos. They are really instructive. Keep up the good work! Warm regards, Oliver and Lasse, gf
Just tried it, it works well ...thank you for that video.
Great video! Technique is very important to get your money's worth out of a fire steel.My first fire steel lasted under a week lol!
Hey thanks! Wow - only one week? That must be some sort of record!! :)
Excellent video Paul; nothing like getting the most of Bushcraft activity. Thanks!!!
I am going to practice and practice because some times I knock my material flying.
thank you for this great tip.
Thanks for your feedback Ted. Please do practice this. The key thing in not knocking your material flying is creating that (small) gap by supporting the Fireflash with your finger, then being really controlled with how you push the spark off the end of the steel. As you see, I don't use a lot of speed - it's more important to scrape off plenty of metal. Just use enough speed to create a spark and maintain control. Let me know how you get on. Best, Paul
Wonderful video Paul. Probably one of the most informative I have seen.
+AdirondackBadger Thanks!
I just got myself a firesteel. I like the control and technique. I look forward to practicing. I really appreciate you sharing. Thank you...Rocky :)
luvlifeclimbsurf My pleasure Rocky. Let me know how you get on with this technique. All the best, Paul
nice one Paul... I enjoyed all 20+ vids. cheers.
You're very welcome Paul. Thanks for your feedback. I'm glad you got some value from them. Cheers!
The best method by far, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Please feel free to share around. Best, Paul
This is a very smart technique. It is nice to see something new that I've never seen before. Very refreshing.
TJack Hi there, I hope it works for you. Let me know how you get on with it. Warm regards, Paul
I'm sure it will. I've got a Spyderco Bushcrafter that I'll use to try it. Once I'm good, I'll post it and share with others on my channel but mention where I got it from. Thanks!
TJack OK, I look forward to seeing that. Cheers, Paul
Excellent video! I have been doing it the wrong way for a long time! Shared!
There are many ways to skin a cat as they say but this method allows you to deliver a concentrated, big spark with precision. I hope it serves you well.
This is a great clip! Thank you for sharing!
Brilliant technique. First time I've seen this. I have been using the stationary knife/pull-the-firesteel-back technique. I like the control your method gives. Thanks.
Richard Caniglia Thanks Richard. Glad you like this. I hope you have good success with applying it. ATB, Paul
I have never seen it introduced anywhere but, a striker, used to light a welding torch makes a good, long lasting firestarter.
Paul, You have explained very nicely! Great!
Barkat Ali Thank you. You are very welcome.
A really well made and informative video. I learnt a lot. Thank you
Thanks. I'm glad it was useful to you. Thanks for letting me know. ATB, Paul
Paul, Very informative. Thank you very much
nicely done, I was one to draw the steel against my knife at close range but found I disturbed my tinder pile on occasion. your method is really accurate and controlled I like it thank you from another uk bushcraft enthusiast.
+Keith Peckett Hi Keith, thanks for your feedback on this video and the technique it shows. I'm happy to read you found this useful and I hope this method serves you well. Warm regards, Paul
Very helpful video - thanks for sharing!
My pleasure
Hi Paul, I like this approach, it adds to this technique. take care
Great technique.
And heres one about the plastic handles on the ferro rods, remove it and take the best fatwood piece you can find thats totally soaked in resin as in all red and carve a new handle of it, that way you always got a good tinder close by if you cant find anything else to use, once you carved the handle its gonna be all sticky, but the surface will dry up in about a week and contain the rest of the resin in the wood fresh, and to fasten the rod in the new handle, simply drill a tight fitting hole and squeeze in the rod, the resin will glue it stuck to the handle after it dried for a couple of days, I do it to all my rods and it saved me getting a fire started when the rain is poring down, a 2x3cm handle will give you shavings for a good 10-30 fires (depending how you use shavings), and when its gone, just carve a new fatwood handle and pop it on, can of course drill a hole sideways in it for a lanyard aswell :)
SignedSign Hey that's a nice tip. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep my eye out for some good fatwood. Cheers! Paul.
Thanx for this great hint. I love it when things have double functions. Sorrily ther are no trees with fatwood in my surrounding.
I carved my own handle with Hazel, if you use the exact same diameter drill bit on green wood then the wood will encase around the rod and close in nice and tight when drying, you can already notice the stiffness of the rod the very next day, fatwood is a great idea but I will have to just buy another blank rod before I do that, the hazel one is my go-to and I've just spent £340 over the last three weeks buying gear so have to save the pennies now!
cheers
Bushman AllOutDoors
I never did like handles, simply because what steel you've adhered into the handle you can't use. In my pack I carry a 1/2 x 6 inch rod (because it was two for the price of one on Amazon through world of fire) and in my PSK is a 3/8 x 4 inch rod from firesteel.com. Neither of them have handles and I've never had any problems. If you think you all need one, horses for courses. I cast my lot among those who don't.
I do have to say, though, that carrying resinous wood is a champion idea for fire starter and no one should be without it.
Fantastic video Paul! This technique is by far the best practice for anyone using the fero rod. Not only does it save on mashing your prepared material around, but I think its also the most efficient method for getting the most out of the fero rod itself over its lifetime, using less than any other method of striking it, would you agree?
Thanks for your feedback! It's definitely the most efficient way to put a spark exactly where you want it. What I've noticed is that once people get the hang of this technique, they get their tinder lit on the first or second strike. Even though the method in the video does advocate taking off a good amount of material to create the biggest spark possible, compared to how most untutored people bash away, striking the rod repeatedly, creating a shower of diffuse sparks and eventually disturbing the tinder, then yes it will increase the life of your Firesteel.
Good advice there. Gonna have a go on it ,never used that area before. Thanks mate
A cut above the rest ! Technique
Thnxs for uploading and sharing
Great video, Paul. Thanks - this is very helpful.
You're very welcome Robert. I'm glad you found this useful.
Paul, thank you for sharing your knowledge, it was very helpful!
My pleasure Walter. I'm happy to hear this was useful to you. Regards, Paul
hi paul thats the first time I've seen a fire steel used that way and it will last a lot longer as well regards dave
Hi David, yes I find it much more efficient - both in terms of getting a fire going but also in terms of not striking away at the FireSteel repeatedly and taking metal off it unnecessarily. Hope you find it works well for you too. All the best, Paul.
Excellent advice. Interesting technique. Many thanks 👍
Great tips and mint lesson
Another help full video, thanks. Keep the good work up, looking foward to watching other videos. regards Peter
Peter Emerson Thanks Peter.
Great, clear demonstration thank you! I hadn't even thought of scraping filings off the stick if a magnesium block isn't handy.
Hi Terry, thanks for your comments. I'm glad you liked the info and ideas here. I hope you find some of my other videos useful too.
Warm regards,
Paul
Another fine video! Your'e a good bushcrafter, and a very good videographer.
I love your thumb push method; it's brilliant. I will be using it for most of my fire making from now on, however, the Swedish firesteels are way too overpriced. I have a bag of Ferro rods that I paid a fraction of the price (both hard & softer steels) that work just as well or better. Most peo who have trouble w a Ferro rod is either improper technique, the wrong scraper or the wrong tinder. (The only way I'd have a Swedish Ferro rod is if it was a gift.) Any way, This vid is very informative and your manner of instruction excellent n very easy to understand thank you. Peace.
Nice tip about the Mora companion
Thank you Robert Williams
@Joel Glyn-Davies Paul is not using the spine of the knife to scrap with. The only part that touches the rod is the beveled edge of the knife. From the tip backwards to where the spine begins. Really, this technique is only good for scandi grind as others either have little to no bevel which does not allow enough surface contact to scrap with. Hope this helps.
I tried the carbon steel opinel knife. Its spine is very sharp and throws sparks like no one's business. Also the Marttiini knives are great too.
Dutch1722 Hi there, thanks for your comment. Glad this is working for you and thanks for the info on the specific knives you have tried. I'm sure this will be useful to other people too. Warm regards, Paul.
Really great advice there Paul.
Thanks Christopher Allen !
OUTSTANDING!
Thanks!
best technique I've seen so far! thanks for sharing :)
Good job brother! That was a good tip and you have some good experience controlling thise sparks.
Paul it turn out that my self I do the same carving in my ferrorod just a bit higher...and I used that for more then 30 years first I start whit a welder torch tricker yes the tiny one but in those days the big one was not on the market yet ..
This is great stuff, Paul
Hello Paul are you using a Becker knife,and would you have a box of matches and a Bic lighter in your gear bag.? I have a big collection of Scandinavian knives Helle martini Mora but the one that I have in my game bag is the Mora companion for field dressing Deer and rabbits.The rest of the knives are in my gun room in a display cabinet.I'm a knife collecter the same as other people collect stamps.Trying to decide between the Mora Survival black or the Enzo trapper any ideas or advice would be great,again best video I've seen on this topic.Thank you my friend.
ruclips.net/video/7TJIrXoAMFI/видео.html
wow! very helpful!!! and a rarely seen technique on YT.
KevlarCamper Thanks. I hope it works well for you. All the best, Paul.
excellent video instruction! The only thing I am afraid to is, the high tempered sparks damage the steel hardness of my knife.
Nice vid! I use similar techniques with my firesteels. Never understood why people use "uncontrolled" methods (so to speak) and wind up having to use more material up diminishing the life of their firesteel. Nice accent by the way! Always loved those suave British and Australian accents! :)
Haha thanks Justin. I don't get called suave very often :-) Cheers, Paul
How did this get into my feed 7 years later? But excellent, timeless advice nonetheless!
I like carrying a "British wick" and a 10 ml bottle of oil. That will take off REALLY quick with a fire steel. One more thing, I'm subbing to your channel.
Thank you for subbing. It's always good to have a few firelighting tricks up your sleeve/in your kit.
Nice technique Paul,who makes the knife you used before the Mora?
hey Paul, i like your "omph" i know exactly what you meen. Great video
Thanks for sharing my videos Ben. All the best, Paul.
That is really helpful! Now, it's time to practice...
Great video to many people want to strike the fire steel and many various ways there is less effort and your fire steel will last way longer to boot
Nice video.
Do you know if there is any difference between LMF army 2 and Mora firesteel( quality of rod, sparks)
Wo Ra Thanks. Glad you liked the video. I think any difference is minor. More important is technique and material selection. Warm regards, Paul
Hi Paul,
I'm not sure if maybe Mora has changed their spine design since they produced the Mora Companion you used, but this method does not work on the 10+ Mora knives that I own. The spines seem to be left too unfinished and rounded to make a spark this way (even using the portion of the spine that's behind the Scandi bevel near the tip as you show here). The only way I can get a spark like this is if the very tip of the knife happens to dig into the fire steel. This results in dulling the tip, which I'm sure is not favorable lol.
Not sure if you might have another suggestion? Mora's are some of my favorite knives, but I've always thought their biggest weakness was not being able to effectively strike a fire steel. I wish Mora would just produce all of their outdoor knives with squared off spines!
Thanks Paul! Great videos BTW, I've subscribed! =)
*****
Hey Dan,
That's a very good question. The Mora in the video is a standard Mora Companion but please read on.... We hand out scores, if not hundreds of Mora Companion knives every year on Frontier Bushcraft courses and it's true the backs of all of them are quite rounded and not squared off. I've also noticed in recent years that the bevel width at the tip has become quite variable from one batch to the next. This makes the area where the bevel meets the back/spine really very small in some instances. What I have found in every case I have tried and when I have also directed students to do the same, is that sharpening the knife on a bench stone and getting a well-defined right angle between the bevel and the spine towards the tip really helps. It's still not as good as a typical "bushcraft" knife with a wider bevel and really squared off spine. What is much better, however, is the Mora Companion Heavy Duty, which has a 3.2mm blade thickness flat spine and nice, squared off edges. A final point regarding the standard Companion - if you do find yourself using more tip than spine, you also run the risk of slipping off the FireSteel and stabbing one of your digits, so it's best avoided for that reason too. With the standard Companion, one option is to take a metal to the back to square it off. I hope this helps. All the best, Paul.
Paul Kirtley
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the reply! It's funny that you mentioned the fact that it's easy to stab yourself using the tip portion of the Companion to strike the fire steel. I came very close a few times (too close for my liking), especially since I keep my blades lubricated with WD-40 and they are slightly slick!
I also have about 7 Mora Heavy Duty knives and you are right, they do have a much more "finished" spine, however I've found the spine on these knives are still not sharp enough to get sparks from the fire steel the way they come out of the box.
Also, I didn't quite understand your last sentence, "With the standard Companion, one option is to take a metal to the back to square it off." I don't understand what you meant by "a metal"? Did you mean a mill file?
Thanks again for the help Paul! I've already begun watching all 22 vids on your website!
Hi Dan,
A file that is suitable for working hardened metal, such as extranet.snaeurope.com/prodblock.aspx?CATALOGUEID=5&ProductBlockID=555
Cheers,
Paul
Paul Kirtley
Hi Paul,
I'm sorry but the link you provided doesn't seem to work. It just brings me to an SNA Europe page that wants a username and password. Were you trying to refer me to a picture?
Hi Dan, the link is no longer working for me either. Try this one instead:
www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-homeowners-dual-cut-metal-file-8/60320
Cheers,
Paul
Excellent Tip....Thanks Bud
Great video Paul, do you think the knife plays a part in getting good sparks? my Condor Bushlore knife is kind of soft and doesn't have a great edge on the spine. do you thing that plays a part?
+WELSBY ROOTS Yes, you need a good right angled edge on the spine Dave.
+Paul Kirtley Thanks Paul,......I need a new knife I think!
You remind me of Ray Mears, in both your teaching style and expertise. You've got yourself a new subscriber. =)
Thank you my friend.
Paul's probably too modest to say, but Paul was the lead instructor and did most of the teaching at Ray Mear's school for many years.
*****
Yup, that's true.
Sure, this is a smart and effective use of a fire steel, but the wild flailing of hands, blade, and ferro, and showers of sparks flying everywhere but onto the tinder is far more entertaining--like a miniature 4th of July or Guy Fawkes Day celebration! LOL
Thanks, Paul, for such a well done tutorial.
kejobo Thanks Keith. I'll just have to entertain you in other ways :-) All the best, Paul.
Very good. Thank you very much
Hi Paul, I've got a new firesteel after somehow breaking my old one. How long does it take before a new firesteel starts producing some proper sparks? I have read that the more worn it is the better. I get weak sparks by simply striking it and using the technique from your video I can shave off material but no spark! Cheers Nige.
Bugga...Just managed to stab my finger as well...Ouch!
Ouch! Yep, I've done that before too! ;) When the FireSteel is new it is coated with a protective lacquer, which helps prevent it oxidising while in storage.
1/ With a couple of scrapes, you can remove this from the area of the steel you want to strike the spark (it will go from dull to shiny).
2/ If you are removing metal from the FireSteel but not attaining sparks, then the issue is not pressure but speed. Increase the speed of your scrape while maintaining the pressure. There is a point at which this will create a spark. Too slow and it won't, however much you dig in.
Hope this helps Nige!
All the best,
Paul
Thanks Paul, I'll keep persevering! :)
Yep, that's all it takes! :)
I have a problem, i grinded the back of my Mora Classic 2 knife so i could use it with a firesteel, but now it mostly just shaves big shavings off the firesteel, and rarely gives any sparks, what should i do?
Great video,and very informative! thanks!
Hi Paul!
When it comes to firelighting devices, the swedish firesteel tends to be the number one solution in the bushcraft community. I have tried it extensively with excellent results, but I'm always coming back to the Doan's magnesium bar. Can't explain why but I seem to prefer it just because the 2 separate steps (shaving the material and sparking). Did you ever tried it? I'm not a beginner anymore but I'm thinking maybe for a beginner, it would be easier to have these 2 separate steps of shaving the magnesium -without accidently sparking on it- and THEN, turning the thing over and sparking the pile of shavings in a more controlled and error-proof manner.
Excellent vid!
C.
Ferro rod is gone long before the magnesium bar in my experience bro
nice videoOne thing I wasn't sure of paul was when you used the mora knife, does anything have to be done to the back edge for it to work?
+Sean Ditch Not in the way I'm using it here but it is only a small area which will work well, just behind the tip. In my experience, the depth of bevels at this point on a Mora is variable and can sometimes be very small, increasing the chance of you pricking your finger with the tip. Flattening the back of a new Mora, where it is somewhat rounded, with a metal file creates a much larger right-angled edge between the side of the knife and the back, which works more consistently. But once you have sharpened the knife a few times and the bevel width increased - which it will if it was too narrow at the tip - makes the technique I show in the video more viable. ATB, Paul
+Paul Kirtley brilliant thanks Paul
+Sean Ditch My pleasure Sean.
Thanks for the technique
You are very welcome.
Right on Paul, I also carry a Magnesium Rod, It really comes in handy in wet conditions, that Magnesium burns very hot, , , I saw pouches of Magnesium sold, I don't have that, but I have two real large Rods if it, infact it will burn in water, , ,
Very nice video and i like the technique. thanks for sharing.
Kullcraven Bushcraft Thanks again. I hope this technique proves useful to you. Warm regards, Paul
Paul, can you make that technique work with hard ferro rods? I only have two out of ten that it works with.
scarz1951 I've not had a problem with hard ones. I find the softer ones are harder to get a good "bite" with the knife...
Good tip
Thanks Jack Sheehan
Good video
What was this man made equivalent of birch bark you used?
susan boone Hi Susan, it's a waxed paper made by a company called Hammaro. Sold widely in Scandinavia as a fire-lighter. All the best, Paul
Awesome thanks for your time 👍🇺🇸
PRETTY DARN GOOD, I did in fact learn proper technique.
Is there any advantage to the real big fire steels ? I've seen some people on RUclips with 3/8ths thick ones
+Derek Hellam Easier to hold and use when cold and they last longer.
Hey bud, great video. However my friend and I are having trouble with this technique. We're both using Mora's (1x companion and 1 x clipper) and Web-Tex Firesteels - yes we're aware it could be the naff steel.
Any tips? How much pressure do we use? Do you push with the 'firesteel' thumb, or is it mainly pressured with the knife wrist? And tips would be great - many thanks. Great video!!!
Mad Man Mike Productions Apologies for the slow reply. Very difficult to keep up with all comments across all videos, particularly using RUclips's mobile app. I just miss things.
Pressure is from both thumbs, nothing much from the wrist. It is harder with a Mora as the bevel is not very wide. You need to a feel a good "bite" from the back of the bevel into the steel. If you are not getting this, then sharpen your knife, making sure the back of the bevel is nice and square. Hope you understand what I mean?...
Hi Paul,
Thank you for the reply. Will keep trying it. I've already tried filing the spine of my Mora near the handle to get a 'striking' area. SOME success... will keep practicing, lol.
Mad Man Mike Productions
:-)
I like to taper approx. 11/2 ins. of my steel to a pencil point, makes for easy striking.
Paul, great video - really helpful technique. What would you say about how it only uses a small part of the firesteel; is this a waste?
James Tamlyn Thanks for your comment. Glad you found this one useful. Re using the section towards the end of the firesteel - well you'll wear this down more quickly than the rest but it does not waste the rest because once the end is worn down you just move back and do the same further up the steel. The steel effectively becomes shorter but you still use all the material, just in a different order if you like :-) Hope this helps. ATB, Paul
Thanks very much; I hadn't thought of that. By the way, your podcasts are great - keep them going!!
James Tamlyn You're very welcome James. Thanks for your feedback on my podcasts also. Warm regards, Paul
Many thanks for the video Paul! It will be very useful to improve my skills.
Just a question, do you like more the "mischmetal" or the "ferrocerium" rods? I mean those that make large burning blobs of metal with few sparks or those that make only a LOT of sparks?
Paolo Stefani Hi Paolo, thanks for your feedback. Glad this will prove useful to you. Are any rods on the market actually just mischmetal? It's very soft before you alloy it with iron to make ferrocerium...
Paul Kirtley Yes, you're right Paul, it's one of those times when the common saying is not really correct. Probably, as far as I have read around, they only have a different amount of magnesium, but my chemistry memories are very weak to confirm this:)
I have found, from some chinese sellers, the "big blob" type, also Going Gear was selling those in the USA.
The common "Swedish ferro rods" seems always of the "many sparks" type.
(Yes, I have bought probably too many...)
Cheers, Paolo
Paolo Stefani I typically use the Swedish FireSteel or very similar. Quite hard as you know. They do create a shower of sparks but as you can see in the video above you can also drop a big spark in one spot. I'm happy with that! :-)
thank you. Great video as usual.
clay moore Thanks for the feedback Clay. ATB, Paul
Superb! Thank you.
Thank you. My experience is that this does not work with all steels however.
is Swedish firesteel the same thing as a flint and steel? i fell like it is. let me know if there is a difference, thanks
a flint and steel is using a piece if steel and a flint stone to make sparks, and usually into material like charcloth where it's guaranteed to catch.
I'll be doing a video on the flint and steel soon :)
+Wyatt Walker Hi Wyatt, thanks for your question. While both a modern firesteel (a.k.a ferro rod) and a traditional flint & steel ignite a fire via the production of sparks, they are different devices. The technique for the use of each differs, as does the range of materials that can be used with each. In some cases, while a material can be used with either a modern Firesteel or a traditional Flint & Steel, the preparation of the material being used can also differ to suit the different device. The following video will help clarify things: ruclips.net/video/kteSUFEplWk/видео.html All the best, Paul
+Paul Kirtley right on, thank you for the explanation. i wasn't trying to sound rude or cocky by the way i was actually curious haha thanks again
this isnt as easy as it looks
Practice makes perfect! :)
Nothing worth learning ever is.
Nice
I want that kind of knife.where to buy?
Diwani Kamatoden if you have the tools you can buy blade blanks which you can then fit your own handle to, Condor do a not bad Bushlore blade blank which is similar although a bit thinner across the spine.