Thanks, man! Following the process you demonstrated in the video, I first put in a new capacity (my multi meter doesn't read capacitors). When that didn't work, I tried the fan spin test like you did and it couldn't spin more freely. So I order a new control board and unplugged and plugged wire for wire. A running fan never sounded that good!
@@ApartmentMaintenance Based on your experience, when the fan does not kick in, which one is more often the root cause: the capacitor, control board or the actual motor?
@@ZL8103 From my experience with these units, it's the control board more often than not. 2nd would be the capacitor & last the motor. Obviously every case is different, but I've changed more control boards than anything.
You can definitely check inputs and outputs on the boards. Sometimes the boards will have spot where it gets power from a transformer and you can for (testing purposes) hook up the power lead from the motor and watch it function. Of course, testing the windings is a better way. Cool video.
Yeah I have other videos where I check for 240 at the relay on the board from common to the Normally closed, and common to normally open. Also where I check for 24 volts coming into the board from the transformer & 24 volts going out to the field wires, which I didn't film the part where I checked for 24 volts at the thermostat (which I had). Those relay's go alot on those boards, I've had them stay open & stay closed to where the fan never shuts off, or the fan never comes on like in the video. All sorts of testing you can do with them, fun to troubleshoot. I had a board last week that basically caught fire, the relay was smoked! I have to edit that video and I will get that uploaded. I Appreciate the knowledge R B & Thanks for watching bro 👍
Thanks for the video. Before getting a board, how about just providing power directions to the blower (bypassing the control board) just to make sure the fan motor is okay.
I've done so many I know where to look lol. This is how I troubleshoot these units, & this is not an instructional description, but just me basically summarizing what I do. If the fan isn't running 1st thing I do is pull the face off the thermostat, jump out the red (24volts) & green (fan wire), if the fan kicks on then you have a bad thermostat. Even in that situation I will still pull the cover off the air handler & test the capacitor for the blower motor, & if it's bad or weak I replace it. If the fan doesn't come on after jumping out the thermostat the next thing I do would be, pull the cover off the air handler & visually check the wires, make sure everything is on tight, & check the board visually. Next I will test out the Capacitor. If that checks out good, I will put the disconnect back in with the cover off, flip the thermostat fan to ON, grab my meter & make sure I'm getting 24 volts across the G terminal on the board & on the C terminal on the board. If I get 24 volts there then I know my thermostat wiring is good. Then the only thing left is the board, & fan motor itself. You can pull the disconnect back out (so power is off of course) Then remove the wires from the relay on the board. You will have a wire at the C (Common) terminal, wire at N.O. terminal (Normally Open), & N.C. (Normally Closed) and set my meter to continuity & test from Common to NC, then Common to NO, if that check out bad, replace board, if that checks out good, next I would put wires back on the terminals on the board, but not all the way down that way I can get my meter leads in there with the lower on to make sure I'm getting 240 volts across the relay, 99% of the time I don't cuz the relay is bad on the board. They are known for that.Ofcourse all of the troubleshooting should be done by a experienced technician with the proper tools & understands how the system works. By NO MEANS this is not a instructional way to go about it, this is how I do it. If any of this information helps out the new guys at your business, or property, then that's awesome but make sure proper safety steps are taken if going to troubleshoot anything with the power on. I would like to think that if someone is learning this field they have an understanding of how the machine works, & how to use a meter properly. Thanks for watching Alex & Subscribe to the channel & Have your new guys all Subscribe as well 👍
Thanks bro, creeping up on that 1k, it will be nice & ur right there as well. I just got that light the other week from home depot, damn thing is bright. Thanks for watching Neil 👍
Have all the same symptoms, except mine was making a humming noise, and the transformer was getting very warm/hot. Does that lean more towards "board replacement" or "capacitor replacement"? Great video 👍
Hard to say without seeing it, they all hum & transformers are warm so not sure. You would have to test the capacitor & check the thermostat as well. Thanks for watching webeducation & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thanks for the reply, that helps a lot. Didn't realize they all hummed and got hot like that. The run/start is rusty looking so I might as well replace it too. Hopefully the tests show thats all that needed.
I’m having the same issue. Replaced blower motor, Tstat, and blower board. Transformer warm to touch. Getting 240 up top. When the signal sends from the thermostat to air handler I’m hearing one single click but no action with blower. Any suggestions?
I know you said your getting 240 up top, but are you getting 24 volts coming out of the transformer? Did you check the blower motor capacitor? Thanks for watching Zach & Subscribe to the channel 👍
you were just guessing it was the board,the motor could've been out on overload,I've seen that numerous times,always make sure the motor is getting voltage
If it was out on overload then the indoor fan blower would not have spun easily or something else would have been fairly cooked. That relay could show full voltage without a load but once loaded up it could drop out.
Yes it could of been the motor & I've could of ohmed it out to make sure before changing the board, but just from past experience it's always been the board. I'm sure the day is coming when it will be the motor. Thanks for watching Pelon & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Definitely make a video on how to change out one of these blower motors same style as my property but there Definitely has to an easier way to replace them than how I've been doing it
I need your advice brotha if you can spare a second. I have an old 1979 furnace in my crawl space. For financial reason I can’t replace it just yet. But the blower isn’t running on hot or cold. The blower motor speeds show the correct resistance and it spins freely, the capacitor shows the correct capacitance. I replaced the relay I went wire for wire with the updated and appropriate replacement. I updated the thermostat with a nest months before that was working correctly on heat all worked as it should. Till a week ago when I wanted to kick on the AC. All that’s left on those old furnaces is the transformer am I correct? I can’t find a control board. If so I can’t find a replacement. How do I check a transformer if it’s working properly? It’s an old honeywell 138472aa transformer. Any help is appreciated sir, thank you in advanced.
Do you have a meter? If so, & your comfortable with working around electrical devices, you would have to see if your getting your high voltage into the primary side, then check to see if your getting your low voltage out of your secondary side. You said you replaced the thermostat awhile back in heat season, I would still check the system without the thermostat involved cause those nest thermostats have had alot of issues from what I heard. If you remove the face off the thermostat & jump out your 24 volt power wire to just the fan wire & the fan kicks on, then you know it's the the thermostat. I don't know what color wires were used on your install at the thermostat but usually Red is your 24 volt power wire at the R terminal, & the fan wire is usually green and at the G terminal. If you removed those two wires and touched them together the fan should kick on if it's a thermostat issue. another thing to check is to see if there is a small 3 amp, or 5 amp fuse in the wiring coming off the transformer low voltage wire. If there isn't, then it would be best to add one so it protects your transformer. Thanks for watching Gomezx & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I really appreciate your help. that was it. the G wire was actually Blue. I mistook it for Common. I rewired it and it works like it should. Blue runs down to my fan and fed a new wire down to feed the common. Again sir, I appreciate your help i wouldn't of thought to check from behind the thermostat. I subscribed my brotha. thank you.
Yep I know how to wire up a relay instead of using the time delayed board. The relay is the 90340. It's really easy once you understand how the relay functions & how the system operates. I prefer to go back with OEM parts though. I will only use the relay in a pinch just to get the system up & running until I can get a board, but I usually stock 4 or 5 boards at all times. Thanks for watching OG & make sure your Subscribed to the channel 👍 More videos to come 🔧
@@ApartmentMaintenance hey so by any chance do you know or can you get me the item number for that boards use the exact same one and it is actually our lead who is eliminating boards and putting fan relays even though I am against it but he's going to be out for a couple months and I want to go back to using boards instead of sequencers but I can't find that exact board in our Home Depot Pro order book BTW it was a dryer that wasn't heating up that lead me to your videos which I subscribed to and it turns out it was the exact same problem your dryer was giving hahaha its maintenance like you that give all maintenance a good name and not hacks like sparkys and plumbers like to call us lol much love and respect bro!
@@OG-Malinali That's awesome to hear. Glad you found the channel. The Goodman Blower Board that I replaced in my video is: PCBFM103S Just make sure your systems use the same one. I know Wilmar (Now goes by Home Depot Pro) has them, & so does Chadwell Supply. Thanks for watching bro 💪
UPDATE - It did fit !! yeah it was blower motor . replaced it and could tell it was working right away at the vents . It waa blowing weakly beflore so replaced capacitor at first but that wasn't it . Only $16 . Next suspected motor . Great that I fixed it . Century universal motor $74 plus needed bracket $30 YAY
@@jaimeolavarrieta6706 ac parts suplier Johnson Supply . Unfortunately many won't sell to those that aren't licensed AC techs but some do . Gotta call around in case there's no Johnson Supply near you . And there was at least one other smaller supplier that sold to the public .
Thanks for the video, my fan sounds like it barely turning, i am hoping it is the cap. I am going to check that and the connections, if it is the board are there numbers on the boards to get the right one or are they interchangeable? I put my fan only ( nest thermostat ) on for 15 minutes and it was fine, I decided to go an extra 15 minutes after it stopped and now it will not turn on and i hear it humming and sounds like it is turning slowly. I tried putting the a/c on and the same. I haven't opened it up cause i had to go to work. Thanks.
Hopefully it's the capacitor, & most of the time it is. Usually when the board is bad, the fan will either not come on at all, work sometimes, or stay on non stop. There should be numbers on the board, is yours a Goodman? If you get the model # off the air handler you can search it online to figure out the part # for the board. Good luck. Thanks for watching Robert & Subscribe to the channel bro 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Okay so i removed the panel and the wire connections were not the greatest looking. I was wrong the fan was not spinning at all. I pulled the capacitor and it was a 10nf plus or minus 6%. My reading was 7.78 repeatedly. I had the fan running for 15 minutes from the thermostat ( the fan was not spinning but had the demand to ) while cleaning things up i heard the contact switch off on the board because the thermostat told it to, so i knew that was working. I hooked the capacitor back up with cleaner connections and it did work. So i ordered a new capacitor and the system is at least working until then. I am in cooling mode here in Florida. Thanks for your help and i did subscribe, My job is in building engineering for a high rise condo but i do not work on a/c's regularly. I know enough to make things interesting. At 59 years old i am still learning. My unit is a carrier heat pump.
@@rsk8310 Glad you figured things out & once the new capacitor is installed you should be good. 7mfd is definitely out of range for a 10 mfd capacitor. Anything under 9.4 mfd is out if range, which I replace them once they get to 9.5 since their basically at their +/- rating & it's only going to get worse. Thanks for Subscribing & Stay safe out there! 👍
You probably have an ECM motor. They don't have capacitors. The module on the motor is probably bad. They are known for going bad. Chances are the motor is fine & it's just the module. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Djpitophp & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
So confused. My handler worked perfectly and suddenly won’t power on. My dog knocked the drain pipe that includes the shut-off float next to it. The float wire may have got tugged. I’ve turned breakers on n off and same with outside unit. Any ideas spring to mind?
I would check the little 3 amp fuse on the circuit board first, you can visually check that. If that checks out good, whoever installed the float switch probably installed it by breaking red (24 volt hot wire) to cut the thermostat off when the switch is full of water. I would check the wires at that wire nut as the dog could have knocked the wires out. If so, you won't get any low voltage. Thanks for watching Dale & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@dalebrenchley3311 Wow I was typing my response as your next comment came through. Sounds like the float switch might be bad. Since you have it removed from the system you can test the float switch with a multimeter on the continuity setting & slide the float up & hold it there the meter should beep & when you slide the float back down the beeping should stop. If it doesn't beep at all then the float switch is bad. 👍
Is there any V checks that can be done at the thermostat, saving me from crawling into my attic? Also, my board has a micro relay, but I think the AC people added a switch in case water built up in the collector pan, and they told me that it would shut off the handler. The pan has water, but I'm not sure it's enough to stop the blower .I went ahead and ordered a blower circuit board, $58 on Amazon for a carrier
The switch your referring to is a float switch. If the main condensate drain clogs, the condensate water will fill up the float switch & shut the unit down to avoid water damage to your home. Whether or not you have a float switch on the secondary drain line or not I wouldn't know that without seeing it of course, but sounds like you have a pan switch which would do the same thing as the secondary drain float switch. Depending how your float switch is wired up, here's what would happen, if it was wired up to the red wire (24volt power wire) & it was full, your thermostat would have a blank screen unless you had battery backup in the thermostat, if they hooked it up to the yellow wire which sends 24volts out to the condenser, the condenser wouldn't turn on outside, but the fan in the air handler would still run but blow out warm air inside the home. To see if it's the thermostat causing the issue, you would have to jump out the red, green & yellow wires & see if everything turns on. If it's a heat pump, you would also have to jump out orange, & if it's a Rheem or Rudd system you wouldn't have to add orange to that color scenario. Best thing to do is set the thermostat to cooling, turn the temp down a few degrees below the room temp & go outside to see if the condenser is running. If it's not running, then you would have to go to the attic & check the condensate drain line to see if it's clogged, & see if you have a secondary drain float switch & see if it has water in it. If you don't have a secondary drain line & there's water in the pan. Most likely the pan float switch is causing the outdoor unit to not turn on cause the main condensate drain is clogged in the attic. You would have to get the drain line opened then remove the water from the pan & then everything should work properly aslong as that's the issue. 90% of the time the clog is at the trap in the drain line where it comes out if the coil at the air handler. If there's a cap or lid at the beginning of the trap, lift it off & see if it's full of water. If so, that's more than likely the issue. Thanks for watching Mike & Subscribe to the channel 👍
They told me there wasn't a switch on the original pan, so because that pan was leaking they ordered another pan and just double panned it and threw in a switch. They also ran a PVC line out to my garage, and I had to extend that out to the side so it would drip into my garden area and not into my driveway. They charged me$700 for the pan + labor+ switch and PVC line work, this was after it ruined a large area of my ceiling above my kitchen.
If the ac fan blower is not running, you won’t hear any noise at all in the air handler? My AC won’t turn on ( it was working before I bypassed the thermosthat) will a bad relay , bad transformer bad capacitor all will not start an AC? I mean if all these 3 parts are bad you won’t hear any noise at all in the air handler? Like even a humming noise? It’s an old air handler there’s no fuse or circuit board
Without seeing it in person it's definitely hard to say. I have no idea what all parts are there, & if there's an in line fuse, etc....Normally on an older system you can hear the transformer buzzing even when the system isn't running. But yes a bad relay, bad transformer, & bad capacitor will all cause the system not to run. When you bypassed the thermostat you could have fried the transformer if there isn't a fuse for the low voltage. A wire could have touched another, or touched anything metal. I wouldn't rule out everything until you properly checked each part. If your unsure of how to diagnose each part, I recommend calling an HVAC technician as it can be very dangerous if you don't know exactly how everything works & how to test it. Thanks for watching Rick & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Appreciate your answer, you are rite I better have a tech fix it for me . Before i make the problem go worse or cause a fire or something. Thanks for your advice.
Awesome, glad Neil (The Maintenance Man) sent you over! Yes sir, it's the Klein HVAC 8n1 Slide driver. Thanks for watching & Subscribe if you haven't already. 👍
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacitor
@@frankmontez6853 That something is bad with the cooling speed on the fan motor or the cooling speed tap on the board. Each color wire from the fan motor represents a fan speed besides white which is common, & the brown wires are for the capacitor. So your fan could have fan speed wires with colors that are black, blue, red, orange etc....So by turning on the heat you can see if the fan possibly works fine. Without seeing everything in person, I don't know if you have just a control board, blower board, fan relay etc...so it's hard to say
@@ApartmentMaintenance on one hand you're saying that you can't know what kind of board be it control, blower fan relay etc but on the other if I turn on heat that will definitely tell me what ? That no matter what board I do have, that this turning on heat will definitely tell me if blower or board is bad ? I'm been without ac for three days. I'm getting to where I'll change out $205 blower motor see if that fixes it. Board at just over $100 ( I think ) might be replaced next if that doesn't work. I'm trying to be sure .
Johnstone Supply, any Maintenance book you would order supplies from. Looks like you can get one online as well from Amazon & other sites. Thanks for watching Carlos 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thank you so much, it is actually one of those stores close to my house 👍👍👍( most of the time you see the stores and you don't know what they sell) appreciate your help 🙂
Great question Jelly Roll, & to answer your question, No it wouldn't of been bad or blown cause if the fuse was bad or blown, the thermostat wouldn't of had any power (as these systems are wired up by 24 volts from the transformer). Also when the fuse is blown, nothing works, the coil would of never iced up, it would of never sent 24 volts out to the contactor at the condenser either, (which closes the contacts on the contactor allowing 240 volts to pass through which allows the condenser to turn on). I also kept the old fuse & put it in my parts case as I always do when I have a bad blower board. The blower board on these units are just to turn off & on the indoor blower, it's not like a control board on a furnace or anything like that, strictly controls the blower. Thanks for watching Jelly & Subscribe if your not already! 👍👍
Appreciate you watching & commenting Abraham, I got a few videos in the pipeline coming up along with my tool bag load out as I've gotten alot of requests to show my veto bag & how I have it loaded out, & a Maintenance shop tour as well. 👍
Should have explained the capacitor when you de-energized it, there are plenty of people that don’t know you can get lit up from a capacitor. When you used your needle nose to touch both contacts on the capacitor it made it safe. With a run stop you touch each of the contacts together to de-energize and make safe.
I changed my little blower control board, the one with the little fuse and my blower still doesn't come on. So again, here comes the AC repair people.... bending over.... this absolutely sucks. I've probably got a bad motor because I've got a good thermostat and power to it. And the AC heat pump comes on...
Did you check the capacitor for the blower motor? Sometimes those relays stick on the blower boards. With the power off, take a screwdriver & tap on the relay with the handle end of the screwdriver. Then turn the power back on & try the fan. You can just switch the thermostat fan to the ON position to test it out. Thanks for watching Mike 👍
A bad blower, voltage to it but still didn't wanna work, replaced and is good, but then I had a problem with blowing heat and cold at the same time, but that was a switch on the thermostat set to the wrong way ..my fault, I was checking voltage and was playing with it. Forgot to place it back.. stupid...I deserve a bill
@Christov LoL, Andy is referring to Steve Lavimoniere, another RUclipsr. I wear them cuz u never know what your touching in someone's home. Pure Nast! Thanks for watching Christov 💪
@Christov I hear ya, yeah I do clean my tools but not after every time I use them. I try to keep my hands clean also that way if I have to handle something that I don't want or need all greasy or dirty it helps in that case as well. Company provides them, so we wear them, especially doing drain calls.
@Christov They do, I've gotten used to them as we have to wear gloves & a mask to enter anyone's unit, (company policy). But yeah definitely when working on a toilet or changing a toilet seat. Yeah sure send me ur tools I'll clean them up & pick which ones I like 🤣 👍
Not trying to take away from the video ,far from that in fact thank you for showing us how to do this problem most folks have and im one of them and i know some people will say well do this do that first for those that have something to say about my comment just hush ,anyways , problem is how do we get to that point where we know which part we need where we buy it for the video everything was ready to go just swap in my case im staring at the fan and now what i do
Getting to the point where you know what you need is called troubleshooting. Disclaimer: Safety First! If you don't know what to check or how to check I would call a professional. Check the thermostat & wiring first with a multimeter, if that is good, turn the power off to the unit check the capacitor, (your multimeter has to be able to read mfds), if that's good then you would have to check the board. If you don't understand how to do this or have never done any of this then I would advise you to call a HVAC technician to come diagnosis the issue. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance lol i know the process im just cheap and want to do everything myself i just dont believe in oaying 400 or more to have my blower serviced i just dont the anount of work does not justify the arm and leg price for 30 min worth sorry if i offend anyone but thats how i feel but thanks for pointing it out and advice
@@oOohdaddy Haha, I like the song. Playing some Madden from back in the day lol I was gonna say reshoot the video to today's quality. I was waiting for your boy to rap on the hook, but he never did. Then the boys pull up in the impala with 2 garbage bags lol
Thanks, man! Following the process you demonstrated in the video, I first put in a new capacity (my multi meter doesn't read capacitors). When that didn't work, I tried the fan spin test like you did and it couldn't spin more freely. So I order a new control board and unplugged and plugged wire for wire. A running fan never sounded that good!
@@ZL8103 Nice!! Glad the video helped you out. Thanks for watching & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Of course. A subscriber now! 😊
@@ZL8103 Appreciate it 💪
@@ApartmentMaintenance Based on your experience, when the fan does not kick in, which one is more often the root cause: the capacitor, control board or the actual motor?
@@ZL8103 From my experience with these units, it's the control board more often than not. 2nd would be the capacitor & last the motor. Obviously every case is different, but I've changed more control boards than anything.
Here he comes to save the day! Maintenance man is on his way!
🤣💪🤣 Yes Sir! Saving the property one work order at a time!! Thanks for watching David 👍
You can definitely check inputs and outputs on the boards. Sometimes the boards will have spot where it gets power from a transformer and you can for (testing purposes) hook up the power lead from the motor and watch it function. Of course, testing the windings is a better way. Cool video.
Yeah I have other videos where I check for 240 at the relay on the board from common to the Normally closed, and common to normally open. Also where I check for 24 volts coming into the board from the transformer & 24 volts going out to the field wires, which I didn't film the part where I checked for 24 volts at the thermostat (which I had). Those relay's go alot on those boards, I've had them stay open & stay closed to where the fan never shuts off, or the fan never comes on like in the video. All sorts of testing you can do with them, fun to troubleshoot. I had a board last week that basically caught fire, the relay was smoked! I have to edit that video and I will get that uploaded. I Appreciate the knowledge R B & Thanks for watching bro 👍
Thanks for the video. Before getting a board, how about just providing power directions to the blower (bypassing the control board) just to make sure the fan motor is okay.
You can just ohm out the fan wires. The sum of two sets should equal the 3rd set. Thanks for watching mgpvii & subscribe to the channel 👍
New guys wanted to see how you troubleshoot it to determine that it was bad; nice video
I've done so many I know where to look lol. This is how I troubleshoot these units, & this is not an instructional description, but just me basically summarizing what I do. If the fan isn't running 1st thing I do is pull the face off the thermostat, jump out the red (24volts) & green (fan wire), if the fan kicks on then you have a bad thermostat. Even in that situation I will still pull the cover off the air handler & test the capacitor for the blower motor, & if it's bad or weak I replace it. If the fan doesn't come on after jumping out the thermostat the next thing I do would be, pull the cover off the air handler & visually check the wires, make sure everything is on tight, & check the board visually. Next I will test out the Capacitor. If that checks out good, I will put the disconnect back in with the cover off, flip the thermostat fan to ON, grab my meter & make sure I'm getting 24 volts across the G terminal on the board & on the C terminal on the board. If I get 24 volts there then I know my thermostat wiring is good. Then the only thing left is the board, & fan motor itself. You can pull the disconnect back out (so power is off of course) Then remove the wires from the relay on the board. You will have a wire at the C (Common) terminal, wire at N.O. terminal (Normally Open), & N.C. (Normally Closed) and set my meter to continuity & test from Common to NC, then Common to NO, if that check out bad, replace board, if that checks out good, next I would put wires back on the terminals on the board, but not all the way down that way I can get my meter leads in there with the lower on to make sure I'm getting 240 volts across the relay, 99% of the time I don't cuz the relay is bad on the board. They are known for that.Ofcourse all of the troubleshooting should be done by a experienced technician with the proper tools & understands how the system works. By NO MEANS this is not a instructional way to go about it, this is how I do it. If any of this information helps out the new guys at your business, or property, then that's awesome but make sure proper safety steps are taken if going to troubleshoot anything with the power on. I would like to think that if someone is learning this field they have an understanding of how the machine works, & how to use a meter properly. Thanks for watching Alex & Subscribe to the channel & Have your new guys all Subscribe as well 👍
Great video Rich! I hope your doing well! Congratulations on 900!! And nice Milwaukee light!!
Thanks bro, creeping up on that 1k, it will be nice & ur right there as well. I just got that light the other week from home depot, damn thing is bright. Thanks for watching Neil 👍
Have all the same symptoms, except mine was making a humming noise, and the transformer was getting very warm/hot. Does that lean more towards "board replacement" or "capacitor replacement"?
Great video 👍
Hard to say without seeing it, they all hum & transformers are warm so not sure. You would have to test the capacitor & check the thermostat as well. Thanks for watching webeducation & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thanks for the reply, that helps a lot. Didn't realize they all hummed and got hot like that. The run/start is rusty looking so I might as well replace it too. Hopefully the tests show thats all that needed.
@@webeducation I have seen a few capacitors rusty as well. But hopefully that's all your issue is. Good luck 🤞
I’m having the same issue. Replaced blower motor, Tstat, and blower board. Transformer warm to touch. Getting 240 up top. When the signal sends from the thermostat to air handler I’m hearing one single click but no action with blower. Any suggestions?
I know you said your getting 240 up top, but are you getting 24 volts coming out of the transformer? Did you check the blower motor capacitor? Thanks for watching Zach & Subscribe to the channel 👍
you were just guessing it was the board,the motor could've been out on overload,I've seen that numerous times,always make sure the motor is getting voltage
If it was out on overload then the indoor fan blower would not have spun easily or something else would have been fairly cooked. That relay could show full voltage without a load but once loaded up it could drop out.
@@walkingfreak do you know what out on overload even means? you must be mistaken with ceased
@@walkingfreak obviously you're not an hvac tech
Yes it could of been the motor & I've could of ohmed it out to make sure before changing the board, but just from past experience it's always been the board. I'm sure the day is coming when it will be the motor. Thanks for watching Pelon & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@walkingfreak My bad Matthew, thought u were talking to me, didn't realize u were talking to Pelon. Thanks for watching👍
Definitely make a video on how to change out one of these blower motors same style as my property but there Definitely has to an easier way to replace them than how I've been doing it
Next one I have go bad I will make a video on it for sure. Thanks for watching OGCreeperMalo 👍
I need your advice brotha if you can spare a second. I have an old 1979 furnace in my crawl space. For financial reason I can’t replace it just yet. But the blower isn’t running on hot or cold. The blower motor speeds show the correct resistance and it spins freely, the capacitor shows the correct capacitance. I replaced the relay I went wire for wire with the updated and appropriate replacement. I updated the thermostat with a nest months before that was working correctly on heat all worked as it should. Till a week ago when I wanted to kick on the AC. All that’s left on those old furnaces is the transformer am I correct? I can’t find a control board. If so I can’t find a replacement. How do I check a transformer if it’s working properly? It’s an old honeywell 138472aa transformer. Any help is appreciated sir, thank you in advanced.
Do you have a meter? If so, & your comfortable with working around electrical devices, you would have to see if your getting your high voltage into the primary side, then check to see if your getting your low voltage out of your secondary side. You said you replaced the thermostat awhile back in heat season, I would still check the system without the thermostat involved cause those nest thermostats have had alot of issues from what I heard. If you remove the face off the thermostat & jump out your 24 volt power wire to just the fan wire & the fan kicks on, then you know it's the the thermostat. I don't know what color wires were used on your install at the thermostat but usually Red is your 24 volt power wire at the R terminal, & the fan wire is usually green and at the G terminal. If you removed those two wires and touched them together the fan should kick on if it's a thermostat issue. another thing to check is to see if there is a small 3 amp, or 5 amp fuse in the wiring coming off the transformer low voltage wire. If there isn't, then it would be best to add one so it protects your transformer. Thanks for watching Gomezx & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I really appreciate your help. that was it. the G wire was actually Blue. I mistook it for Common. I rewired it and it works like it should. Blue runs down to my fan and fed a new wire down to feed the common. Again sir, I appreciate your help i wouldn't of thought to check from behind the thermostat. I subscribed my brotha. thank you.
@@gomezx6056 Awesome! Glad I was able to help. Thanks for the Subscribe 🪛🔧👍
I'm curious if you know how to bypass a board with a sequencer or a fan relay I just learned how to do it!
Yep I know how to wire up a relay instead of using the time delayed board. The relay is the 90340. It's really easy once you understand how the relay functions & how the system operates. I prefer to go back with OEM parts though. I will only use the relay in a pinch just to get the system up & running until I can get a board, but I usually stock 4 or 5 boards at all times. Thanks for watching OG & make sure your Subscribed to the channel 👍 More videos to come 🔧
@@ApartmentMaintenance hey so by any chance do you know or can you get me the item number for that boards use the exact same one and it is actually our lead who is eliminating boards and putting fan relays even though I am against it but he's going to be out for a couple months and I want to go back to using boards instead of sequencers but I can't find that exact board in our Home Depot Pro order book BTW it was a dryer that wasn't heating up that lead me to your videos which I subscribed to and it turns out it was the exact same problem your dryer was giving hahaha its maintenance like you that give all maintenance a good name and not hacks like sparkys and plumbers like to call us lol much love and respect bro!
@@OG-Malinali That's awesome to hear. Glad you found the channel. The Goodman Blower Board that I replaced in my video is: PCBFM103S Just make sure your systems use the same one. I know Wilmar (Now goes by Home Depot Pro) has them, & so does Chadwell Supply. Thanks for watching bro 💪
UPDATE - It did fit !! yeah it was blower motor . replaced it and could tell it was working right away at the vents . It waa blowing weakly beflore so replaced capacitor at first but that wasn't it . Only $16 . Next suspected motor . Great that I fixed it . Century universal motor $74 plus needed bracket $30 YAY
Niceeeee 💪 Glad you got everything squared away & it's working now! Thanks for watching Frank 👍
Where did you buy the parts from Frank?
@@jaimeolavarrieta6706 ac parts suplier Johnson Supply . Unfortunately many won't sell to those that aren't licensed AC techs but some do . Gotta call around in case there's no Johnson Supply near you . And there was at least one other smaller supplier that sold to the public .
Thanks for the video, my fan sounds like it barely turning, i am hoping it is the cap. I am going to check that and the connections, if it is the board are there numbers on the boards to get the right one or are they interchangeable? I put my fan only ( nest thermostat ) on for 15 minutes and it was fine, I decided to go an extra 15 minutes after it stopped and now it will not turn on and i hear it humming and sounds like it is turning slowly. I tried putting the a/c on and the same. I haven't opened it up cause i had to go to work. Thanks.
Hopefully it's the capacitor, & most of the time it is. Usually when the board is bad, the fan will either not come on at all, work sometimes, or stay on non stop. There should be numbers on the board, is yours a Goodman? If you get the model # off the air handler you can search it online to figure out the part # for the board. Good luck. Thanks for watching Robert & Subscribe to the channel bro 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance Okay so i removed the panel and the wire connections were not the greatest looking. I was wrong the fan was not spinning at all. I pulled the capacitor and it was a 10nf plus or minus 6%. My reading was 7.78 repeatedly. I had the fan running for 15 minutes from the thermostat ( the fan was not spinning but had the demand to ) while cleaning things up i heard the contact switch off on the board because the thermostat told it to, so i knew that was working. I hooked the capacitor back up with cleaner connections and it did work. So i ordered a new capacitor and the system is at least working until then. I am in cooling mode here in Florida. Thanks for your help and i did subscribe, My job is in building engineering for a high rise condo but i do not work on a/c's regularly. I know enough to make things interesting. At 59 years old i am still learning. My unit is a carrier heat pump.
@@rsk8310 Glad you figured things out & once the new capacitor is installed you should be good. 7mfd is definitely out of range for a 10 mfd capacitor. Anything under 9.4 mfd is out if range, which I replace them once they get to 9.5 since their basically at their +/- rating & it's only going to get worse. Thanks for Subscribing & Stay safe out there! 👍
I’ve looked for the capacitor and the board in my unit and it seems not to have either. It only has a relay and wires direct .
You probably have an ECM motor. They don't have capacitors. The module on the motor is probably bad. They are known for going bad. Chances are the motor is fine & it's just the module. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching Djpitophp & help support the channel by subscribing 🛠️👍
So confused. My handler worked perfectly and suddenly won’t power on. My dog knocked the drain pipe that includes the shut-off float next to it. The float wire may have got tugged. I’ve turned breakers on n off and same with outside unit. Any ideas spring to mind?
Update: removed the float out the circuit and connected the red wires together. Off/on breaker and magic I got ac tonight 😬
I would check the little 3 amp fuse on the circuit board first, you can visually check that. If that checks out good, whoever installed the float switch probably installed it by breaking red (24 volt hot wire) to cut the thermostat off when the switch is full of water. I would check the wires at that wire nut as the dog could have knocked the wires out. If so, you won't get any low voltage. Thanks for watching Dale & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@dalebrenchley3311 Wow I was typing my response as your next comment came through. Sounds like the float switch might be bad. Since you have it removed from the system you can test the float switch with a multimeter on the continuity setting & slide the float up & hold it there the meter should beep & when you slide the float back down the beeping should stop. If it doesn't beep at all then the float switch is bad. 👍
Failed open...good job man. I'm a recent subscriber
I like the content. It reminds me of lex's...
Glad you like it, Lex's channel is great! Thanks for watching & Subscribing Benjamin 👍
Did you brush that coil down it was filthy
Great question!! I sprayed evap coil cleaner on it, rinsed it, put pan tablets in the drain pan. Thanks for watching Geoff & Hope your Subscribed👍👍
Is there any V checks that can be done at the thermostat, saving me from crawling into my attic? Also, my board has a micro relay, but I think the AC people added a switch in case water built up in the collector pan, and they told me that it would shut off the handler. The pan has water, but I'm not sure it's enough to stop the blower .I went ahead and ordered a blower circuit board, $58 on Amazon for a carrier
The switch your referring to is a float switch. If the main condensate drain clogs, the condensate water will fill up the float switch & shut the unit down to avoid water damage to your home. Whether or not you have a float switch on the secondary drain line or not I wouldn't know that without seeing it of course, but sounds like you have a pan switch which would do the same thing as the secondary drain float switch. Depending how your float switch is wired up, here's what would happen, if it was wired up to the red wire (24volt power wire) & it was full, your thermostat would have a blank screen unless you had battery backup in the thermostat, if they hooked it up to the yellow wire which sends 24volts out to the condenser, the condenser wouldn't turn on outside, but the fan in the air handler would still run but blow out warm air inside the home. To see if it's the thermostat causing the issue, you would have to jump out the red, green & yellow wires & see if everything turns on. If it's a heat pump, you would also have to jump out orange, & if it's a Rheem or Rudd system you wouldn't have to add orange to that color scenario. Best thing to do is set the thermostat to cooling, turn the temp down a few degrees below the room temp & go outside to see if the condenser is running. If it's not running, then you would have to go to the attic & check the condensate drain line to see if it's clogged, & see if you have a secondary drain float switch & see if it has water in it. If you don't have a secondary drain line & there's water in the pan. Most likely the pan float switch is causing the outdoor unit to not turn on cause the main condensate drain is clogged in the attic. You would have to get the drain line opened then remove the water from the pan & then everything should work properly aslong as that's the issue. 90% of the time the clog is at the trap in the drain line where it comes out if the coil at the air handler. If there's a cap or lid at the beginning of the trap, lift it off & see if it's full of water. If so, that's more than likely the issue. Thanks for watching Mike & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance ty.
They told me there wasn't a switch on the original pan, so because that pan was leaking they ordered another pan and just double panned it and threw in a switch. They also ran a PVC line out to my garage, and I had to extend that out to the side so it would drip into my garden area and not into my driveway. They charged me$700 for the pan + labor+ switch and PVC line work, this was after it ruined a large area of my ceiling above my kitchen.
@@mikelunsford7462 Wow, atleast it's all taken care of now. Thanks for watching Mike!
I looked at the float switch, I bypassed it as well and no blower...
If the ac fan blower is not running, you won’t hear any noise at all in the air handler? My AC won’t turn on ( it was working before I bypassed the thermosthat) will a bad relay , bad transformer bad capacitor all will not start an AC? I mean if all these 3 parts are bad you won’t hear any noise at all in the air handler? Like even a humming noise? It’s an old air handler there’s no fuse or circuit board
Without seeing it in person it's definitely hard to say. I have no idea what all parts are there, & if there's an in line fuse, etc....Normally on an older system you can hear the transformer buzzing even when the system isn't running. But yes a bad relay, bad transformer, & bad capacitor will all cause the system not to run. When you bypassed the thermostat you could have fried the transformer if there isn't a fuse for the low voltage. A wire could have touched another, or touched anything metal. I wouldn't rule out everything until you properly checked each part. If your unsure of how to diagnose each part, I recommend calling an HVAC technician as it can be very dangerous if you don't know exactly how everything works & how to test it. Thanks for watching Rick & Subscribe to the channel 👍
Appreciate your answer, you are rite I better have a tech fix it for me . Before i make the problem go worse or cause a fire or something. Thanks for your advice.
@@migosmadeira9892 No problem 👍 Thanks again for watching the video!
Oh God the mold on those wires eeeeeyuccck!
Lol Thanks for watching KL4life & subscribe to the channel if you're not already 🛠️👍
Thanks for the info. The maintenance Man sent me your way. Nice rubber grip screwdriver. Klein brand? Again, thanks and God bless! 😁👍
Awesome, glad Neil (The Maintenance Man) sent you over! Yes sir, it's the Klein HVAC 8n1 Slide driver. Thanks for watching & Subscribe if you haven't already. 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance oh, definitely subbed!
Good work
Thanks for watching Roc The World I & Subscribe to the channel 👍
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacitor
Does the blower work fine on heat setting? Thanks for watching Frank & Subscribe to the channel 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance I'll try it . What will that tell me ?
@@frankmontez6853 That something is bad with the cooling speed on the fan motor or the cooling speed tap on the board. Each color wire from the fan motor represents a fan speed besides white which is common, & the brown wires are for the capacitor. So your fan could have fan speed wires with colors that are black, blue, red, orange etc....So by turning on the heat you can see if the fan possibly works fine. Without seeing everything in person, I don't know if you have just a control board, blower board, fan relay etc...so it's hard to say
@@ApartmentMaintenance on one hand you're saying that you can't know what kind of board be it control, blower fan relay etc but on the other if I turn on heat that will definitely tell me what ? That no matter what board I do have, that this turning on heat will definitely tell me if blower or board is bad ? I'm been without ac for three days. I'm getting to where I'll change out $205 blower motor see if that fixes it. Board at just over $100 ( I think ) might be replaced next if that doesn't work. I'm trying to be sure .
@@ApartmentMaintenance and seems like if I do it in certain way I can sorta bench test it and see blower motor is good or not ?
Where you can buy those circuit boards ?
Johnstone Supply, any Maintenance book you would order supplies from. Looks like you can get one online as well from Amazon & other sites. Thanks for watching Carlos 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance thank you so much, it is actually one of those stores close to my house 👍👍👍( most of the time you see the stores and you don't know what they sell) appreciate your help 🙂
@@CarlosRodriguez-oq4hq No problem! 👍
I replaced the blower motor, cap, thermostat and still motor blower won't turn on????
Did you check the board? If so, you didn't mention that in your comment.
Could the fuse have just been bad on the board
Great question Jelly Roll, & to answer your question, No it wouldn't of been bad or blown cause if the fuse was bad or blown, the thermostat wouldn't of had any power (as these systems are wired up by 24 volts from the transformer). Also when the fuse is blown, nothing works, the coil would of never iced up, it would of never sent 24 volts out to the contactor at the condenser either, (which closes the contacts on the contactor allowing 240 volts to pass through which allows the condenser to turn on). I also kept the old fuse & put it in my parts case as I always do when I have a bad blower board. The blower board on these units are just to turn off & on the indoor blower, it's not like a control board on a furnace or anything like that, strictly controls the blower. Thanks for watching Jelly & Subscribe if your not already! 👍👍
Good stuff
Appreciate you watching & commenting Abraham, I got a few videos in the pipeline coming up along with my tool bag load out as I've gotten alot of requests to show my veto bag & how I have it loaded out, & a Maintenance shop tour as well. 👍
Can you just unplug the relays?
No you can't. They are soldered into the circuit board. Thanks for watching benchurch1309 & subscribe to the channel 👍
Should have explained the capacitor when you de-energized it, there are plenty of people that don’t know you can get lit up from a capacitor. When you used your needle nose to touch both contacts on the capacitor it made it safe. With a run stop you touch each of the contacts together to de-energize and make safe.
Great tips! Thanks for watching Dennis & Subscribe to the channel 👍
How about you stop showing people how to do it and call a professional
I changed my little blower control board, the one with the little fuse and my blower still doesn't come on. So again, here comes the AC repair people.... bending over.... this absolutely sucks. I've probably got a bad motor because I've got a good thermostat and power to it. And the AC heat pump comes on...
Did you check the capacitor for the blower motor? Sometimes those relays stick on the blower boards. With the power off, take a screwdriver & tap on the relay with the handle end of the screwdriver. Then turn the power back on & try the fan. You can just switch the thermostat fan to the ON position to test it out. Thanks for watching Mike 👍
A bad blower, voltage to it but still didn't wanna work, replaced and is good, but then I had a problem with blowing heat and cold at the same time, but that was a switch on the thermostat set to the wrong way ..my fault, I was checking voltage and was playing with it. Forgot to place it back.. stupid...I deserve a bill
@@mikelunsford7462 It's always something isn't it? 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance always... but I'll get a huge bill, I can't wait! Send me bills, all of em, fake bills too why not..
No wonder why, it needs a louver door.
Thanks for watching 🛠️👍
Why do you wear gloves ( said Steve)
🤣👍🤣 Love watching Steve Lav!! Thanks for watching Andy 💪
@Christov LoL, Andy is referring to Steve Lavimoniere, another RUclipsr. I wear them cuz u never know what your touching in someone's home. Pure Nast! Thanks for watching Christov 💪
@Christov I hear ya, yeah I do clean my tools but not after every time I use them. I try to keep my hands clean also that way if I have to handle something that I don't want or need all greasy or dirty it helps in that case as well. Company provides them, so we wear them, especially doing drain calls.
@Christov They do, I've gotten used to them as we have to wear gloves & a mask to enter anyone's unit, (company policy). But yeah definitely when working on a toilet or changing a toilet seat. Yeah sure send me ur tools I'll clean them up & pick which ones I like 🤣 👍
You changed the board without knowing if It was good
It was bad. Thanks for watching Beto 👍
Not trying to take away from the video ,far from that in fact thank you for showing us how to do this problem most folks have and im one of them and i know some people will say well do this do that first for those that have something to say about my comment just hush ,anyways , problem is how do we get to that point where we know which part we need where we buy it for the video everything was ready to go just swap in my case im staring at the fan and now what i do
Getting to the point where you know what you need is called troubleshooting.
Disclaimer: Safety First! If you don't know what to check or how to check I would call a professional.
Check the thermostat & wiring first with a multimeter, if that is good, turn the power off to the unit check the capacitor, (your multimeter has to be able to read mfds), if that's good then you would have to check the board. If you don't understand how to do this or have never done any of this then I would advise you to call a HVAC technician to come diagnosis the issue. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ApartmentMaintenance lol i know the process im just cheap and want to do everything myself i just dont believe in oaying 400 or more to have my blower serviced i just dont the anount of work does not justify the arm and leg price for 30 min worth sorry if i offend anyone but thats how i feel but thanks for pointing it out and advice
@@oOohdaddy No prob, I hear ya. Who's song "gotta get my weight up" ?
@@ApartmentMaintenance that be me 😂 in my early days or should i say in my dumb days before i wised upand left it all behind
@@oOohdaddy Haha, I like the song. Playing some Madden from back in the day lol I was gonna say reshoot the video to today's quality. I was waiting for your boy to rap on the hook, but he never did. Then the boys pull up in the impala with 2 garbage bags lol
Where do you buy these boards and how to find them
I buy them from Johnstone Supply. Thanks for watching Call me Pops & Subscribe to the channel 👍
I picked mine up on Amazon. eBay wanted too much and an ac place wanted double!!