I seen you guys in Liberty I did not know you where this close to me, how do i go about getting you guys to look at my 1984 Honda Xr 80? I'd love to have you guys work on it for content!
THIS is what you have been missing. Turbo engines almost require fuel injection unless you are a carburetor Yoda. The tuning flexibility should make all the difference for your forced induction drag antics.
for a blow-thru turbo with carbs you either need carburetors that are designed or modded to handle pressure, or you have to enclose them inside pressure housings, which is easier said than done. efi in the long run is cheaper, easier and lighter/more compact. it's also easier to tune with a laptop rather than swapping carburetor metering components.
@@WyFoster they say not to boost air cooled engines because of heat soak. That being said if it's just long enough for a drag run I don't see a problem. Top fuel cars dont tend to have radiators and such. I guess if your engine life is measured in minutes are you really loosing?
i’m looking forward to it to. mainly looking for how much faster the rail will be beings it will be more efficient and won’t be breaking up all the time anymore
Great video! Cant wait to see what the drag rail does now! Should add some rubber around the fuel pump straps and mount. Will help with isolating and any vibrations to the pump.
By lapping the two together the key will sit nice and flush as the flywheel will be all the way on the crankshaft eliminating the wobble or chatter. We do it with boat propeller washer/bushings to propshafts often in the marine industry
Methanol will eat your aluminum fuel tank. Just have it hard coat anodized, along with fuel rails, etc. Also, methanol will cause standard buna-n o-ribgs to swell & not seal. I believe Viton rings are ok. Set up a gasoline engine map as well, so when you're done running at the strip, you can swap back to gas, which is a lot easier on fuel system parts.
@@cskalle1213honestly it doesn't seem like there's much methanol doesn't eat up given the time. Some things just seem to hold up longer. I think it's just a significant oxidizer (edit I should have added "significant compared to other fuels at least")
I have been WAITING for you guys to swap the drag rail to fuel injection! This should help with the fuel delivery issues once it's dialed in! One of the beauties of turbocharging is that you don't have to worry about having too many bends in the intake. That's because the turbo SHOVES the air into the cylinders instead of the cylinders sucking the air in like a straw!
I really admire your patience John. When things don’t always go perfect, you always find the constructive side of things like finishing up the fuel system, wiring, etc. To some it may sound like a small thing, but as a business owner myself I understand that you can be your own worst enemy or your own best friend. Anyways, good job guys! That dash is so cool!
For future reference, the key doesn't hold your flywheel on, it just positions it. The taper holds it on. The performance guys don't even use keys. For a good taper seat, use some fine lapping compound on the flywheel and crank until you get a good seat pattern, then lock it down. You won't have anymore worries about a loose flywheel.
They routinely lap their billet flywheel replacements, so they can resolve this with their eyes shut. Fixing this issue will be the easiest part of their project.
Let's take a moment to appreciate the rapid deployment of the "Charles in charge volunteer fire department"! That was impressive! Not sure why the Opel spontaneously combusted, the one my friend had never did that.
@@braddocksgarageFire extinguisher is good, but a fire watcher is better. The guy welding can't see flames through the helmet. I know when welding alone the first sign of a fire is the smell, and by then your pants are already on fire. Literally. ;)
I've been a long time viewer and I remember when this was your first big project laying tubing on the floor in your parents garage, and i though it was kind of silly to put a harbor frieght engine in a dragster. but its so awesome and amazing to see how long this series has bean going on and how far its come. You guys got me into engines in middle school and I've finished college not too long ago, now I'm working as a mechanic and rebuilt my first motorcycle last summer
I can tell you EXACTLY what happened to the old Flywheel. When someone was doing some welding (Exhaust) work on that motor the Flywheel somehow was Grounded and welded itself to the Crank shaft. I have seen this happen before! When welding on an engine it is VERY improtant to watch the ground clamp location. Being a Certified welder i have seen this happen many times!
The 91 mph mini bike had support bearings at each end of the crankshaft maybe that’s something to think about to keep the crank from flexing drag rail is so cool
I love watching videos about the dragster. I really enjoy the settings part....trial and error eventually leading to a trial and win. The turbo, now with fuel injection...adjustments should be much easier. There will be a learning curve here fellas....be mindful of that, but it'll make great content. Thank you for "testing purposes only' and starting it , it was music to my ears to hear it run. That pipe that was supplied though....cool right? View counter is going crazy as I am writing this.....good job guys.
THIS IS AWSOME!!! Talk about a wonderful surprise to find out this was being worked on in the background! I am extremely excited to see how this setup works out for you guys!
Idk what you ended up doing on the flywheel issue, but I have had good luck cleaning the bore and the end of the shaft with unlubricated ether. It helps the figment be very tight and dry. You can also heat up the flywheel a little to help it press fit more. It'll be harder to remove but it won't slip.
That's a great album John! During the very late 80s and early 90s my pops lived in Seattle and was friends with Alice in chains and Soundgarden and Nirvana. And he would take me with him to watch them play small shows in Seattle and Portland before anyone knew who they were. So it was really cool to watch them get big.😊
Heck yeah glad u guys went with haltech I commented wayy back when u guys were thinking about fuel injection saying to try haltech. Pricey but so freaking awesome. Thanks guys for dragging us along in y'all's awesome builds and adventures, I will be looking forward for more content.
Might be a good idea to put a fuel return line and a fuel pressure regulator, That way you can tune in more ways than one and save some rings in the future.
Good point.. I didn't realize it dead-ends into the rail until you mentioned it. If they're going to be running methanol, it's definitely going to need a return line to keep the fuel from boiling in the lines and cavitating!!😲
i wish i could show you how much you guys have taught me i built my own mini bike at 16 years old 212 ghost stretch powder coated cherry apple red pin striping and custom seat now currently building a ct100u fully built ghost purple powder coated and a custom seat and chromed out motor currently working on a custom control center/dash for it
If you put a permanent fitting in that housing and then can connect your fuel line to the permanent fitting you would eliminate the aluminum on aluminum problem
Ike, think about removing the flywheel again and lapping it to the crankshaft before installing it with it's key. You can, if needed, leave the key out and set any timing degree you want without the need for modified keys. The lapping will drastically increase the contact and hold between the two surfaces.
the hardest part of efi is getting it to start... even if if run like crap. if all your sensor work and it fires... your on the right track. keep at it and it will get their. oh and get rid of the equus gauges there junk... and I hope you all checked trigger offset. any time you change/install uninstall crank trigger you should verify that.
In the old days of 5hp Briggs racing engines, we used valve grinding compound to mate the flywheel inner taper to the crank taper. Just like you would lap the valves... It looks to me that the flywheel and crank surfaces weren't matched good enough for the rpms and torque you are running now. Just my opinion. Good luck guy's!
Y'all are fortunate you were in the shop when the Opal wiring harness grenaded. That could have really sucked big time. Looking forward to the first pull on the Haltech FE setup. Cheers Guys! Zip~
It's the harmonics. That engine hits so hard, so much more than it was designed for. I bet that crank twists and "whips" Being a 2 cyl its only a power pulse every 360 degrees. Lot of harmonics and vibration for sure.
@@SportbikerNZ, Lol! If they have, then I have to wonder why they didn't think of that seeing the condition of the keyway and key. They didn't teach me that either. I've been a mechanic for over 45 years. I learned that longer ago than some of them have been alive. Have a great day!
@@Enigma-Sapiens Whose to say they ever removed this flywheel. One thing is for sure, they don't need the kindergarten level advice with all the billet flywheels they've lapped to cranks.
This is awesome. Man im so happy to see this thing back . I was starting to wonder what happened. Thank you guys so much for the amazing video and thank you guys for stepping out of your comfort zone . It may seem hard now but once you learn mroe about the software and tuning then you realize its just numbers and theres way more features in that thing that you guy could ever use . Should be simple once you guys getbused to it and it will start and fire up more consistently.
Yaaaay!! Finally, this is what this thing needs to go fast and perform like it should!😄👍👍 Can't wait to see the first rip down the dragstrip. The new aluminum fuel tank looks great, and once you get the pressure fittings lined out, you'll be able to do a real tune on it with and without boost. Hope she stays together!!😉 Keep checking those plugs! *EDIT:* Guys, I just saw a comment that made a lot of sense. You may need a return line and a pressure regulator off that fuel rail back to the tank, especially on methanol. Otherwise there's a possibility of the fuel boiling in the line and cavitating (i.e. going lean under boost!)😳
Love what you guys do you guys have inspired me to make my own RUclips channel with my own mini bikes I have been trying to build up my channel you guys are awesome
The taper on the crank doesn't match the taper in the flywheel. That's where the movement is coming from. Put sharpie on both parts and twist the new flywheel on the crank, if it doesn't clean the sharpie off all the way around and front to back, you'll have to lap them together or you'll mess up a really nice custom flywheel.
i absolutely love all of the builds that you guys do this one is amazing and i 100% believe that this will make the 100 mph and then some keep up the hard work guys but have fun with it all 3 of you guys make my day when i see new videos when they come out ive been here since day one i remember back in the shed and the rat rod gocart and when you were building the ducarty then the trophy cart i love watching your videos you guys are hilarious and you build really impressive stuff and its what made me as a mechanic start to open my mind and make cool things and make minibikes and gocarts
Once you get the tuning down right and tight, I think that efi is going to make a serious difference in both performance and maintenance. I can't wait until its all back together and running down the track, it's going to be awesome!
If it chews up the flywheel and shaft too much. You could put thin layer of silicone or even jb weld it. Lol keep it from moving. Good luck getting it off later. Not impossible but fun.
Harmonic are a challenge to maintain in a performance environment. May need to see if there's a way to get a fluid balancer on the to soak up the vibration
Sounds like he has it setup for idle by timing. It’s idling too fast so it pulls timing to slow it down and it dies because it pulls too much timing. How are you guys regulating fuel pressure? I don’t see a regulator or return line anywhere? You’re definitely going to want the O2 sensor in the exhaust. It won’t “learn” until that’s installed and long term and short term fuel trims are setup correctly. I’m currently working with fueltech systems on a similar project.
I know you guys probably hear this all the time, but I have a couple of karts I need to get out of the way. I don't want to scrap them! One is hand-made out of all stainless, with a golf cart steering rack. It has marine style planking as a floor. It also has a predator 212 that is new but has sat for 5 years. The other is a stripped racing go-kart frame, no frills, nothing cool, just parts. I also have a torque converter. I think it's an old school super 30, never been installed. They are yours if you want them. I'm in SC
Please put some kind of intercooler on it, small factory side mounted ome from a 1.8t audi a4 will work perfectly, will help make power aswell look cool and sound awesome as it'll allow for some turbo flutter
You guys have the single best camera settings I've seen when you're filming indoors with the "main" camera. Can you tell me what the lowdown is and whether or not it was something I suggested way back when (if you remember)? The reason I ask is because I always go around telling RUclipsrs that have poor settings (especially 24fps) to use 30fps with 1/50th or 1/40th shutter speed for more motion blur to offset the smoother frame rate and get it as "cinematic" as 30 can possibly get.
I might have missed things before but I'll ask anyways, who did you get the EFI kit from for the 670cc and how much did it cost? I have a 670 CC on my project (little ripper) and I am looking at two other projects to use the same style setup on. I think fuel injection is easier than dealing with carburetors that's why I'm asking where you got that from. Sorry I don't post videos very often as I have life situations that get in the way as well as weather because I do not have a garage to work in.
westport wa.state here. wishing you young men a good time. have fun until the wheels come off. i did. worth it . waiting for updated show. "tires down"
I have never been a fan of one time use fuel rails or injector lines. Would it he feasible to get one done out of whatever plastic is used on car engines to supply the fuel rail and just have a proper QD connector to the aluminum rail from a plastic supply line?
i have one question why use not a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel back line, so you have not the issue, for fuel leaks and fuel pressure lost and you can use a bigger fuel pump for more throughput
Don't know if this will help, but a few years ago I was talking to a guy who was part of a team that engineered race turbo systems and he said 'you have to remember that compressed air doesn't move along a pipe like toothpaste' and if you have a 180 degree bend in the pipe, it has to be double the diameter of the initial pipes to not create restriction/turbulence as it passes around the bend, as the air wants to pass around the outside edge of the pipe/manifold.
I would put the fuel tank into the frame, more inline instead of externally and transverse to the frame. Don't know if there's any mechanical advantage, but it'll look cleaner and possibly be safer if you have an accident. Great build, can't wait to see it fly
I disagree. The further the fuel tank is away from them the better for safety. And the further forward the better, for weight over the front wheels for steering. The frame up front doesn't have enough depth to encase the tank anyway.
That thing is a beast i believe yall gonna hit that 100 mph mark easy hey ike i haven't posted it yet but the 454 is going to be for sale soon you got first dibs
The taper of the crankshaft is too steep for the taper in the flywheel. So the very end of the crank was bottoming out before the taper itself was able to make contact. So the flywheel may have been installed properly. It was just that very corner of the crank was touching the taper of the flywheel instead of the tapered surfaces mating together
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Hi
I seen you guys in Liberty I did not know you where this close to me, how do i go about getting you guys to look at my 1984 Honda Xr 80? I'd love to have you guys work on it for content!
It’s definitely Ikes beanies and weenies, and I am not a beanies and weenies Guy lol 😂
What got launched?
Little too much boost? rofl
Hope no one got hurt there at the end.
Nice ❤
THIS is what you have been missing. Turbo engines almost require fuel injection unless you are a carburetor Yoda. The tuning flexibility should make all the difference for your forced induction drag antics.
for a blow-thru turbo with carbs you either need carburetors that are designed or modded to handle pressure, or you have to enclose them inside pressure housings, which is easier said than done. efi in the long run is cheaper, easier and lighter/more compact. it's also easier to tune with a laptop rather than swapping carburetor metering components.
Yes sir, wait till I get this baby tuned up, staged up at 10 PSI sitting on the two step. Prepare for lift off, she's got a date with the Moon baby!
Also Haltech has wifi enabled ones as well I think @@marzsit9833
@@WyFoster they say not to boost air cooled engines because of heat soak. That being said if it's just long enough for a drag run I don't see a problem. Top fuel cars dont tend to have radiators and such. I guess if your engine life is measured in minutes are you really loosing?
@@Turkeythigh420 All high end drag racing engines like Top Fuel are air cooled.
The end of the crank is going to need a Morse taper. I'm shocked that key hasn't sheared off. The scaring is from the flywheel oscillating.
Ye, I thought the same. The oscillation is widening the keyway. Maybe check that the centre bolt is not bottoming out.
The drag rail is by far my favorite project on the channel. I watched u guys build it originally. So excited for the efi
So nice to see the rail back on the shop floor.
Looking forward to seeing it back at the drag strip.
i’m looking forward to it to. mainly looking for how much faster the rail will be beings it will be more efficient and won’t be breaking up all the time anymore
Great video! Cant wait to see what the drag rail does now! Should add some rubber around the fuel pump straps and mount. Will help with isolating and any vibrations to the pump.
Remove the key. Use valve lapping compound between the crank and flywheel rotate back and forth 360° until you have a uniform fit.
Good advice 👍 and I would do the same
Looks like it was wobbling , so it wasn't set correctly
Then use the next size up in keyway material..
next size up in material? its a tapered shaft woodruff key does nothing but set the timing. @mikewhite3123
By lapping the two together the key will sit nice and flush as the flywheel will be all the way on the crankshaft eliminating the wobble or chatter. We do it with boat propeller washer/bushings to propshafts often in the marine industry
Methanol will eat your aluminum fuel tank. Just have it hard coat anodized, along with fuel rails, etc.
Also, methanol will cause standard buna-n o-ribgs to swell & not seal. I believe Viton rings are ok.
Set up a gasoline engine map as well, so when you're done running at the strip, you can swap back to gas, which is a lot easier on fuel system parts.
But will methanol eat gold? If not Golden fuel tank is now recommended
@@cskalle1213honestly it doesn't seem like there's much methanol doesn't eat up given the time. Some things just seem to hold up longer. I think it's just a significant oxidizer (edit I should have added "significant compared to other fuels at least")
The dragrail has to be my favorite C&C build. Awesome to see you guys have stuck with it!
I have been WAITING for you guys to swap the drag rail to fuel injection! This should help with the fuel delivery issues once it's dialed in! One of the beauties of turbocharging is that you don't have to worry about having too many bends in the intake. That's because the turbo SHOVES the air into the cylinders instead of the cylinders sucking the air in like a straw!
I really admire your patience John. When things don’t always go perfect, you always find the constructive side of things like finishing up the fuel system, wiring, etc. To some it may sound like a small thing, but as a business owner myself I understand that you can be your own worst enemy or your own best friend. Anyways, good job guys! That dash is so cool!
My theory is a mistake is only a mistake if its not learned from
The vacume line runs the ecm internal M.A.P sensor (mainifold absolute pressure) 😊
For future reference, the key doesn't hold your flywheel on, it just positions it. The taper holds it on. The performance guys don't even use keys.
For a good taper seat, use some fine lapping compound on the flywheel and crank until you get a good seat pattern, then lock it down. You won't have anymore worries about a loose flywheel.
They routinely lap their billet flywheel replacements, so they can resolve this with their eyes shut.
Fixing this issue will be the easiest part of their project.
1:12 best view of the shop 👌🤤
I love how genuinely excited Charles got seeing the green manifold 👍
I absolutely love all your build videos.
Let's take a moment to appreciate the rapid deployment of the "Charles in charge volunteer fire department"! That was impressive!
Not sure why the Opel spontaneously combusted, the one my friend had never did that.
really curious what happened there as well. great reaction time on charles' part and can't wait to eventually see the opel on the channel
They were welding on the bottom of the car and it caught something on the floorboard on fire.
@@WyFoster been there! Done that! almost burned my shop down! Always have a fire extinguisher ready when welding is the lesson of the day
So many have been there before.
@@braddocksgarageFire extinguisher is good, but a fire watcher is better. The guy welding can't see flames through the helmet. I know when welding alone the first sign of a fire is the smell, and by then your pants are already on fire.
Literally. ;)
I've been a long time viewer and I remember when this was your first big project laying tubing on the floor in your parents garage, and i though it was kind of silly to put a harbor frieght engine in a dragster. but its so awesome and amazing to see how long this series has bean going on and how far its come. You guys got me into engines in middle school and I've finished college not too long ago, now I'm working as a mechanic and rebuilt my first motorcycle last summer
I can tell you EXACTLY what happened to the old Flywheel. When someone was doing some welding (Exhaust) work on that motor the Flywheel somehow was Grounded and welded itself to the Crank shaft. I have seen this happen before! When welding on an engine it is VERY improtant to watch the ground clamp location. Being a Certified welder i have seen this happen many times!
doubt
The 91 mph mini bike had support bearings at each end of the crankshaft maybe that’s something to think about to keep the crank from flexing drag rail is so cool
"Testing Purposes Only" Best quote ever! Put that on your Merch. 🤣
Timing marks-exciter ring.....sweet build ❤
I love watching videos about the dragster. I really enjoy the settings part....trial and error eventually leading to a trial and win. The turbo, now with fuel injection...adjustments should be much easier. There will be a learning curve here fellas....be mindful of that, but it'll make great content. Thank you for "testing purposes only' and starting it , it was music to my ears to hear it run. That pipe that was supplied though....cool right? View counter is going crazy as I am writing this.....good job guys.
THIS IS AWSOME!!! Talk about a wonderful surprise to find out this was being worked on in the background! I am extremely excited to see how this setup works out for you guys!
Idk what you ended up doing on the flywheel issue, but I have had good luck cleaning the bore and the end of the shaft with unlubricated ether. It helps the figment be very tight and dry. You can also heat up the flywheel a little to help it press fit more. It'll be harder to remove but it won't slip.
Wow thats mad guys - Haltech 750 Elite for a Harbor Freight Engine? Never thought I would see the day... Such an insane build at this point...
You should lap the flywheel to the crank.
You were probably taught be them how to do this on their previous videos. They've done it with all their billet flywheels.
That's a great album John! During the very late 80s and early 90s my pops lived in Seattle and was friends with Alice in chains and Soundgarden and Nirvana. And he would take me with him to watch them play small shows in Seattle and Portland before anyone knew who they were. So it was really cool to watch them get big.😊
Heck yeah glad u guys went with haltech I commented wayy back when u guys were thinking about fuel injection saying to try haltech. Pricey but so freaking awesome. Thanks guys for dragging us along in y'all's awesome builds and adventures, I will be looking forward for more content.
I’m currently putting a Kohler command EFI V twin in a golf cart. I’m definitely going to pay attention for the turbo option!
12:36 Imagining what the fab work is going to look like and the possibilities. I know that look and that feeling, rock on guys 🤘🏽
Might be a good idea to put a fuel return line and a fuel pressure regulator, That way you can tune in more ways than one and save some rings in the future.
Good point.. I didn't realize it dead-ends into the rail until you mentioned it. If they're going to be running methanol, it's definitely going to need a return line to keep the fuel from boiling in the lines and cavitating!!😲
Thats a good point
i wish i could show you how much you guys have taught me i built my own mini bike at 16 years old 212 ghost stretch powder coated cherry apple red pin striping and custom seat now currently building a ct100u fully built ghost purple powder coated and a custom seat and chromed out motor currently working on a custom control center/dash for it
now currently 18
the reluctor wheel is a form of "tone ring" similar to abs rings on a hub
Don't forget to put a fuel filter before and after the fuel pump
If you put a permanent fitting in that housing and then can connect your fuel line to the permanent fitting you would eliminate the aluminum on aluminum problem
Just finished welding a custom 5hp cam for my cousins gokart and it rips
YAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYY HALTECH AND FRANKENSTEIN MOTORS!!! THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!
I've been watching you guys for years and John's dad's garage. You guys are doing awesome. I have nothing but great things to say about great job !!!
I remember when this all stared so far y'all came, i love it, keep up the good work
9:38 I was thinking the exact same thing. Proof of concept was successful now lets get down to business 💪🏼
Ike, think about removing the flywheel again and lapping it to the crankshaft before installing it with it's key. You can, if needed, leave the key out and set any timing degree you want without the need for modified keys. The lapping will drastically increase the contact and hold between the two surfaces.
the hardest part of efi is getting it to start... even if if run like crap. if all your sensor work and it fires... your on the right track. keep at it and it will get their. oh and get rid of the equus gauges there junk... and I hope you all checked trigger offset. any time you change/install uninstall crank trigger you should verify that.
you need a straight shot in from the turbo to the intake build headers accordingly less charge pipe is the answer direct exhaust were needed
In the old days of 5hp Briggs racing engines, we used valve grinding compound to mate the flywheel inner taper to the crank taper. Just like you would lap the valves... It looks to me that the flywheel and crank surfaces weren't matched good enough for the rpms and torque you are running now. Just my opinion. Good luck guy's!
They've done a lot of lapping of billet flywheel upgrades on their engines, so it's something they're very familiar with.
Charles was right about the throttle blipping lol probably just needed a little input more than what was in it to idle
Y'all are fortunate you were in the shop when the Opal wiring harness grenaded. That could have really sucked big time. Looking forward to the first pull on the Haltech FE setup. Cheers Guys! Zip~
You need a rubber isolator for the fuel pump it will reduce noise from the pump and vibration fatigue from the engine running
Perhaps you need to "lap" fit your flywheel to the crank. Just because they are supposed to be the same doesn't mean they will be.
It's the harmonics. That engine hits so hard, so much more than it was designed for. I bet that crank twists and "whips"
Being a 2 cyl its only a power pulse every 360 degrees. Lot of harmonics and vibration for sure.
@@WyFoster, Yes, I agree, which enforces my suggestion to lap the flywheel to the crank. The better it fits the less it will want to move around.
They probably taught you this given they've lapped many billet flywheels. Had to laugh at the comment.
@@SportbikerNZ, Lol! If they have, then I have to wonder why they didn't think of that seeing the condition of the keyway and key. They didn't teach me that either. I've been a mechanic for over 45 years. I learned that longer ago than some of them have been alive. Have a great day!
@@Enigma-Sapiens Whose to say they ever removed this flywheel.
One thing is for sure, they don't need the kindergarten level advice with all the billet flywheels they've lapped to cranks.
This is awesome. Man im so happy to see this thing back . I was starting to wonder what happened. Thank you guys so much for the amazing video and thank you guys for stepping out of your comfort zone . It may seem hard now but once you learn mroe about the software and tuning then you realize its just numbers and theres way more features in that thing that you guy could ever use . Should be simple once you guys getbused to it and it will start and fire up more consistently.
Cannot wait to see this setup go down the track! Good luck tuning this puppy up.
I've been with you all since the beginning! I luv what you guys do. Thanks Ray
Oahhhh baby, that's what you need, let's goooo!!! Now time for just a little nitro!!
Yaaaay!! Finally, this is what this thing needs to go fast and perform like it should!😄👍👍 Can't wait to see the first rip down the dragstrip. The new aluminum fuel tank looks great, and once you get the pressure fittings lined out, you'll be able to do a real tune on it with and without boost. Hope she stays together!!😉 Keep checking those plugs! *EDIT:* Guys, I just saw a comment that made a lot of sense. You may need a return line and a pressure regulator off that fuel rail back to the tank, especially on methanol. Otherwise there's a possibility of the fuel boiling in the line and cavitating (i.e. going lean under boost!)😳
man I really love this project! I am so happy to see it evolve and the direction it keeps moving towards.
Love what you guys do you guys have inspired me to make my own RUclips channel with my own mini bikes I have been trying to build up my channel you guys are awesome
The taper on the crank doesn't match the taper in the flywheel. That's where the movement is coming from. Put sharpie on both parts and twist the new flywheel on the crank, if it doesn't clean the sharpie off all the way around and front to back, you'll have to lap them together or you'll mess up a really nice custom flywheel.
great stuff guys thanks
i absolutely love all of the builds that you guys do this one is amazing and i 100% believe that this will make the 100 mph and then some keep up the hard work guys but have fun with it all 3 of you guys make my day when i see new videos when they come out ive been here since day one i remember back in the shed and the rat rod gocart and when you were building the ducarty then the trophy cart i love watching your videos you guys are hilarious and you build really impressive stuff and its what made me as a mechanic start to open my mind and make cool things and make minibikes and gocarts
That is sick.. yal will get it right. Going in the right direction for sure ...
Once you get the tuning down right and tight, I think that efi is going to make a serious difference in both performance and maintenance. I can't wait until its all back together and running down the track, it's going to be awesome!
Holley efi 550-552 1100 series works great on a 670 predator buddy of mine is using it on a racing mower best part it's self learning
Great upgrade to the Drag Rail. Keep it up boys!!!
what happened at the end did something catch fire?
If it chews up the flywheel and shaft too much. You could put thin layer of silicone or even jb weld it. Lol keep it from moving. Good luck getting it off later. Not impossible but fun.
i found you guys when you built the 4 engine 4wd go cart and you guys have come a long ways since then. and just as interesting to watch.
Some of the Summernats guys in Aus running methanol setups won't even reach temp on the skid pad for the 90 seconds they're burning the tires off.
Finally! Can't wait to see the real potential of the drag rail now!
Harmonic are a challenge to maintain in a performance environment. May need to see if there's a way to get a fluid balancer on the to soak up the vibration
Sounds like he has it setup for idle by timing. It’s idling too fast so it pulls timing to slow it down and it dies because it pulls too much timing. How are you guys regulating fuel pressure? I don’t see a regulator or return line anywhere? You’re definitely going to want the O2 sensor in the exhaust. It won’t “learn” until that’s installed and long term and short term fuel trims are setup correctly. I’m currently working with fueltech systems on a similar project.
I know you guys probably hear this all the time, but I have a couple of karts I need to get out of the way. I don't want to scrap them! One is hand-made out of all stainless, with a golf cart steering rack. It has marine style planking as a floor. It also has a predator 212 that is new but has sat for 5 years. The other is a stripped racing go-kart frame, no frills, nothing cool, just parts. I also have a torque converter. I think it's an old school super 30, never been installed. They are yours if you want them. I'm in SC
Finally something besides a bike! Loved watching this build!
This is the build that made me start watching back when they did the initial build of the engine before the rail was even built
Please put some kind of intercooler on it, small factory side mounted ome from a 1.8t audi a4 will work perfectly, will help make power aswell look cool and sound awesome as it'll allow for some turbo flutter
You guys have the single best camera settings I've seen when you're filming indoors with the "main" camera. Can you tell me what the lowdown is and whether or not it was something I suggested way back when (if you remember)? The reason I ask is because I always go around telling RUclipsrs that have poor settings (especially 24fps) to use 30fps with 1/50th or 1/40th shutter speed for more motion blur to offset the smoother frame rate and get it as "cinematic" as 30 can possibly get.
I might have missed things before but I'll ask anyways, who did you get the EFI kit from for the 670cc and how much did it cost? I have a 670 CC on my project (little ripper) and I am looking at two other projects to use the same style setup on. I think fuel injection is easier than dealing with carburetors that's why I'm asking where you got that from. Sorry I don't post videos very often as I have life situations that get in the way as well as weather because I do not have a garage to work in.
Yessss! I've been waiting for this ever since the turbo went on 😁😁😁😁
I would love to see that in the micro car as well as the slicks. Love the content gentlemen great job.
westport wa.state here. wishing you young men a good time. have fun until the wheels come off. i did. worth it . waiting for updated show. "tires down"
that thing is gonna be nuts
The rail content is my favorite stuff.
Ohh this is exactly what we were hoping for in the future for the drag rail! Super excited for the next episode! 🙏🤗❤️
Finally my favorite project is back! Can't wait for the next episode. Good job guys👍
I have never been a fan of one time use fuel rails or injector lines. Would it he feasible to get one done out of whatever plastic is used on car engines to supply the fuel rail and just have a proper QD connector to the aluminum rail from a plastic supply line?
Finally we have some proper EFI!
Keep it up guys! Awesome build. Failures happen. Tuck and roll!!
I'm excited about seeing this thing go down the drag strip.
i have one question why use not a fuel pressure regulator and a fuel back line, so you have not the issue, for fuel leaks and fuel pressure lost
and you can use a bigger fuel pump for more throughput
Don't know if this will help, but a few years ago I was talking to a guy who was part of a team that engineered race turbo systems and he said 'you have to remember that compressed air doesn't move along a pipe like toothpaste' and if you have a 180 degree bend in the pipe, it has to be double the diameter of the initial pipes to not create restriction/turbulence as it passes around the bend, as the air wants to pass around the outside edge of the pipe/manifold.
If you need any haltech tuning help I can do it remotely.
Very cool, I'm super excited for you guys!
So stoked for this!!! Idk how long we've been waiting for this one...
You should consider a remote turbo mounting (in place of muffler) behind the driver. (Longer exhaust pipe)
Been waiting forever for more of this build
This is my favorite build of yours👌🏻
Keep the shorts up love the updates.
Cool video. Love the Opel GT, my first car!
I would put the fuel tank into the frame, more inline instead of externally and transverse to the frame.
Don't know if there's any mechanical advantage, but it'll look cleaner and possibly be safer if you have an accident.
Great build, can't wait to see it fly
I disagree. The further the fuel tank is away from them the better for safety. And the further forward the better, for weight over the front wheels for steering. The frame up front doesn't have enough depth to encase the tank anyway.
@@SportbikerNZ I didn't realize those extra couple of inches made that big a difference.
Said no woman to me ever.
@@danielcox3983 Let's point the flat end forward.
That thing is a beast i believe yall gonna hit that 100 mph mark easy hey ike i haven't posted it yet but the 454 is going to be for sale soon you got first dibs
The taper of the crankshaft is too steep for the taper in the flywheel. So the very end of the crank was bottoming out before the taper itself was able to make contact. So the flywheel may have been installed properly. It was just that very corner of the crank was touching the taper of the flywheel instead of the tapered surfaces mating together
Very kool guys. Can't wait to see it run.