How many times do we have to drop the lamé in the shower? Is two enough? I'm afraid to drop it three times but then again you seen to know what you're doing
An obvious preventative measure would be to use a towel after using your mask to wipe off. Do you recommend adding any solution to the towel in order to clean it after every session?
No....the green patina stays. I've never seen it go away. On the other hand, I've seen lames that look like they were made from the flag of Ireland pass wonderfully, and clean-looking ones fail miserably.
@@ethanboy2005 depends on how often you fence and how much you sweat. if you're a heavy sweater or fence frequently, probably once a week, but keep in mind that what you;ll be doing is slowing the degradation down...that green patina will eventually be there.
I was wondering is you could show us how to test connectivity of a lame with the free (almost) multi meter from Harbor Freight Tools (Cent-Tech 7 function multi meter). Possible?
I don't have that multimeter, but the testing is the same regardless of the meter you use. I'm a little busy with armory this week, but I'll see if I can get on that vid. Thanks!
I'll mail you a new one or e-mail you a coupon. You can subscribe to their coupons as well. I just got e-mailed the coupon today. It's good from 2/2/18 - 2/4/18.
Ok. The meter is on its way. See, I have no idea the correct setting on any multimeter - what is passing and what is not. I’d like to be one step ahead of the tournament armors to fix problems and not spend big bucks on a new lame….don’t forget the new stenciling. Ouch! Also, the armors look to have jerry-rigged every multimeter they use with a foil tip weight tester. Thanks for the time you give us do-it-yourself fencers!
Not sure...never heard of people doing that. Is that in addition to or instead of the ammonia or soap?? Either that or they sweat so much that the lame smells like a reopened grave and they'd rather deal with the vinegar smell!
@@samsignorelli seems like instead of the ammonia. I’ve tried both methods and the green stuff still won’t come off. That’ll teach me for buying the cheapest stuff.
@@BetterExplanation The green stuff is copper oxidizing and doesn't really go away. However, it doesn't immediately kill the lame. I've seen ones fairly green that passed resistance testing with no issues. It's the corrosion you DON'T see that causes issues initially. Eventually, tho, the oxidation WILL result in a dead lame. It happens to inox lames as well.
@@samsignorelli That's a good point. Some of the green spots actually are still under 5 Ohm. I just feel like there must be another way though chemically to remove that oxidization but I guess adding more chemicals to something you wear isn't the best idea. I also only noticed now that at least for the glove I have the metallic part of the threads (I think) in the weaving are actually really thin, are they cloth surrounded by metal? I'm not sure.. We need like a high school, or college freshman to do a chemistry study or material science study as part of a class and find the ultimate solution.
And it's up at ruclips.net/video/a6ed-xpuMx4/видео.html Apologies if it's a little off...I'd just gotten back to the office after working a tournament and I'm still a little whacked....
It's more a matter of care of the lame, regardless of the type. My own sabre lame is a Linea copper one, and I have a couple others I use for my sabre class. They've all lasted well in spite of being shoved into my bag at the end of class (not with the whites, tho....those hang up outside the bag!), which, admittedly, is NOT how I tell people to care for their own gear. The only major prob I've had was with the right forearm sleeve under my glove cuff...because that's where sweat from my hand went and started to corrode the copper... but even that took some time. I had it patched and still use the lame, and the rest works fine. My experience with lame material that looks more smooth -- like the Leon Paul lames -- is limited to my first FIE sabre glove, which WAS an LP...and the cuff turnover -- the part laying against my lame sleeve -- died after a few months...twice. A stainless steel lame lime an Allstar INOX might last longer than a copper one, but it's still going to come down to care. If you fold the lame tightly in the same place for storage, you'll eventually break the wires and make a dead spot, regardless of copper or stainless steel material.
...and the other thing that helps, is to take your wet, sweaty clothing out of your fencing equipment bag after practice, hang it up and let it dry. Goes for body cords too. Great video!
Sure it is....getting it wet won't destroy it (unless you leave it submerged for a full week or so) nebula.wsimg.com/a9e1ad8ef821a8ad60f28250149031fe?AccessKeyId=30E8767FB0ECAD7A5D19&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 Those are the printed instructions. You can also do the dishwasher trick...place the mask on the top rack of a dishwasher, open end facing the sprayers. Run it by itself with a FEW drops of detergent (not the gel packs). Either turn off the heated dry cycle or pull the mask out when the wash cycle is done but before the dry cycle starts. Then wipe down and press water out of the bib as the instructions specify. In either case, it takes a couple of days for the bib to fully dry due to the foam inside.
Thanks Sam. Keep up the good work
How many times do we have to drop the lamé in the shower? Is two enough? I'm afraid to drop it three times but then again you seen to know what you're doing
Three times IS the recommended daily allowance of lame shower drops...
So helpful! Thank you!
An obvious preventative measure would be to use a towel after using your mask to wipe off. Do you recommend adding any solution to the towel in order to clean it after every session?
@@samsignorelli Interesting, and perhaps good point on the "always grabbing the mask in the same place to remove it." Didn't think of that.
After this process, will the green discoloration on the sabre mask bib be removed?
No....the green patina stays. I've never seen it go away. On the other hand, I've seen lames that look like they were made from the flag of Ireland pass wonderfully, and clean-looking ones fail miserably.
Quick question: So if there is rust on the neck area what would be the best way to get it off ? I never really understood how to do that
red rust or green oxidation?? either one is going to eventually kill the lame., i've never found a way to get rid of either, unfortunately.
@@samsignorelli the oxidation, if so since that’s the case how often should you wash the lame to insure that the rust doesn’t stay on ?
@@ethanboy2005 depends on how often you fence and how much you sweat. if you're a heavy sweater or fence frequently, probably once a week, but keep in mind that what you;ll be doing is slowing the degradation down...that green patina will eventually be there.
@@samsignorelli got it thank you
I was wondering is you could show us how to test connectivity of a lame with the free (almost) multi meter from Harbor Freight Tools (Cent-Tech 7 function multi meter). Possible?
I don't have that multimeter, but the testing is the same regardless of the meter you use.
I'm a little busy with armory this week, but I'll see if I can get on that vid. Thanks!
I'll mail you a new one or e-mail you a coupon. You can subscribe to their coupons as well. I just got e-mailed the coupon today. It's good from 2/2/18 - 2/4/18.
Sure....homfencing.com for my biz address
Ok. The meter is on its way. See, I have no idea the correct setting on any multimeter - what is passing and what is not. I’d like to be one step ahead of the tournament armors to fix problems and not spend big bucks on a new lame….don’t forget the new stenciling. Ouch! Also, the armors look to have jerry-rigged every multimeter they use with a foil tip weight tester. Thanks for the time you give us do-it-yourself fencers!
The meter arrived today...let me play with it a bit and get back to you.
I have seen some other add a gallon of white vinegar too. What are your thoughts on that?
Not sure...never heard of people doing that. Is that in addition to or instead of the ammonia or soap??
Either that or they sweat so much that the lame smells like a reopened grave and they'd rather deal with the vinegar smell!
@@samsignorelli seems like instead of the ammonia. I’ve tried both methods and the green stuff still won’t come off. That’ll teach me for buying the cheapest stuff.
@@BetterExplanation The green stuff is copper oxidizing and doesn't really go away. However, it doesn't immediately kill the lame. I've seen ones fairly green that passed resistance testing with no issues. It's the corrosion you DON'T see that causes issues initially.
Eventually, tho, the oxidation WILL result in a dead lame.
It happens to inox lames as well.
@@samsignorelli That's a good point. Some of the green spots actually are still under 5 Ohm. I just feel like there must be another way though chemically to remove that oxidization but I guess adding more chemicals to something you wear isn't the best idea. I also only noticed now that at least for the glove I have the metallic part of the threads (I think) in the weaving are actually really thin, are they cloth surrounded by metal? I'm not sure.. We need like a high school, or college freshman to do a chemistry study or material science study as part of a class and find the ultimate solution.
Maybe I should start putting antiperspirant on my forearm and hands too.
AF Standard Lames are Copper+Silver fibers. Are those OK to wash in this way as well?
Not problem. Even the lames designed to be tossed in a washing machine can be done this way.
Hi there, could you please make a video tutorial on how to repair saber mask cords? Thank you in advance!
Sure! I saw your comment and shot the vid you wanted....should be up later tonight. I need to edit the pieces together and upload it.
sam signorelli Oh wow, that is so great, thanks so much! Looking forward to seeing it!
And it's up at ruclips.net/video/a6ed-xpuMx4/видео.html
Apologies if it's a little off...I'd just gotten back to the office after working a tournament and I'm still a little whacked....
I’m assuming this works fine with stainless steel foil and Sabre lames?
Yep...the technique works for any of them.
hi! Do you use hot or cold water? Ty
Warm, generally.
In your opinion, what is the most durable foil lamé (maybe for a reasonable price)?
It's more a matter of care of the lame, regardless of the type.
My own sabre lame is a Linea copper one, and I have a couple others I use for my sabre class. They've all lasted well in spite of being shoved into my bag at the end of class (not with the whites, tho....those hang up outside the bag!), which, admittedly, is NOT how I tell people to care for their own gear.
The only major prob I've had was with the right forearm sleeve under my glove cuff...because that's where sweat from my hand went and started to corrode the copper... but even that took some time. I had it patched and still use the lame, and the rest works fine.
My experience with lame material that looks more smooth -- like the Leon Paul lames -- is limited to my first FIE sabre glove, which WAS an LP...and the cuff turnover -- the part laying against my lame sleeve -- died after a few months...twice.
A stainless steel lame lime an Allstar INOX might last longer than a copper one, but it's still going to come down to care.
If you fold the lame tightly in the same place for storage, you'll eventually break the wires and make a dead spot, regardless of copper or stainless steel material.
Thank you.
...and the other thing that helps, is to take your wet, sweaty clothing out of your fencing equipment bag after practice, hang it up and let it dry. Goes for body cords too. Great video!
i dont think its safe to Wash the mask?
Sure it is....getting it wet won't destroy it (unless you leave it submerged for a full week or so)
nebula.wsimg.com/a9e1ad8ef821a8ad60f28250149031fe?AccessKeyId=30E8767FB0ECAD7A5D19&disposition=0&alloworigin=1
Those are the printed instructions.
You can also do the dishwasher trick...place the mask on the top rack of a dishwasher, open end facing the sprayers. Run it by itself with a FEW drops of detergent (not the gel packs). Either turn off the heated dry cycle or pull the mask out when the wash cycle is done but before the dry cycle starts. Then wipe down and press water out of the bib as the instructions specify.
In either case, it takes a couple of days for the bib to fully dry due to the foam inside.
i dont think it safe to Wash the mask?
i dont think its safe to Wash the mask?