Steve - I am considering buying the MU-3P. (I cannot see a need for the digital ruler). I cannot wrap my head around how, so I ask - Is it possible to do that same joint with fasteners on the inside edges? I'm not real fond of the bowties showing, even with the wood overlay.
Hello, Steve! I'm a cabinetmaker in South Korea. I’ve been thinking about buying a Hoffmann machine. I came across your videos and subscribed to your channel. From the comments on your past video, I noticed that you used to own the MU2 model for a long time. I'm currently thinking about buying an MU2P model. I heard that MU2 is currently discontinued, but there are sellers in my country who have that model in stock. Of course, they also sell MU3, but there is a big price difference. I'm going to use that machine mainly to make drawer boxes. You've used both MU2 and MU3. Is there a big difference between using the two machines? Differences in ease of use, etc… Thank you for posting a lot of informative videos!!👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you. I am glad you enjoy my content. I still have the MU2 machine (21 years now) and still use it. I have given thought to selling it but some of my projects call for different size keys so it is convenient for me to have both machines. I think you are on the right track to go with the pneumatic version as they can clamp greater height pieces than the manual versions which would be useful for drawer boxes. Functionally, both the MU2 and MU3 machines do the same thing. In my opinion, the primary differences are capacity, convenience, and power: 1) The motor wattage of the MU3 is almost double that of the MU2 (both standard motor configurations). Hoffmann has told me that the standard motor of the MU3 will handle limited use for the W4 bit. 2) The MU3P clamping height capacity is greater than that of the MU2. I can clamp up to 170mm height with the MU3P where my MU2 can only go up to about 115mm. 3) Adjusting bit projection is critical to getting a good joint. Due to a micro adjustment, the MU3 machine is much easier and more accurate to adjust than the MU2. If you just intend on using the same bit size all the time, this is probably less important to you. I change bit sizes frequently so this saves time for me. 4) The table size of the MU3 is greater than the MU2 so it supports longer pieces better. With the MU3, you also have the option to add extension tables for even more support if needed. 5) The dust collection port on the MU2 is at the back of the machine where the MU3 is on the bottom. Both work equally well but the MU2 location is more convenient in my opinion. One intangible consideration is that I have found uses for the Hoffmann dovetail machine (as I do with most tools) that I had not envisioned at the time of purchase. Some of these uses have been beyond the capacity of my older MU2 so in those instances, I have appreciated the MU3. I hope this helps in making the best decision for you. Steve
@@extremewoodworker Thank you for the kind reply, Steve! I finally bought the MU2-P machine yesterday and did some tests. Like what you said, it is kind of difficult to adjust the router bit for a good joint. I've already got some cracks on my test mitered boards :( haha. I hope I could get a good joint soon and do a lot of works with the machine for a long time like you :) Thank you, Steve!
@@grgrfmfm Awesome! I am sure you will enjoy this for many years to come. There is definitely a sweet spot for getting a good joint and it can vary depending on the wood species. Sometimes 0.1 mm makes all the difference. Steve
Interesting thought. I did this as a test joint for a couple of doll case builds so the stock was scaled to look delicate. This could probably be done with quarter round but would have to be scaled up in size to have enough meat to connect. Steve
@@extremewoodworker thank You very much for replying. Well, today or perhaps tomorrow when warmer, I will take my table saw outside to carport and experiment cuts, because I need to finish mad room with new shiplap panels and must cover all the corners vertical and horizontal. Maybe I do video lol. Greetings from 🇨🇦👍
Hi Mike. The MU3PD shown in this video is on loan and the end of the loan period rapidly approaching. I have owned its predecessor (MU2) for going on 19 years now and have never regretted its purchase. I look at this from a value perspective over time. My Hoffmann MU2 cost including accessories (not including keys) over my entire period of ownership is about 37 cents per day and the projects it helps me create will last for generations. I do not use the Hoffmann machine everyday or for every project but, that is the case for virtually every one of the specialty tools that I have. Years ago, a co-worker asked me how I justified buying high priced tools and equipment. My response was that I don't. These purchases support my hobby, give me decades of use, help me efficiently produce useful and beautiful projects, and I just enjoy using them. Since he was holding a Starbucks in hand when asking this question, I rhetorically asked how he justified purchasing a Starbucks every day. His response was that he liked Starbucks and he had to have it. This coffee costs him about $5 per day and what it produces literally gets flushed in a matter of hours (less as we grow older). Steve
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wonderful what a nearly unlimited equipment budget can produce!
Glad to see you posting more frequently, Please keep it up.
Thanks Howard.
Incredible Steve. But that is you; so thank you for sharing your innate talents with us.
Thank you Pat.
Steve - I am considering buying the MU-3P. (I cannot see a need for the digital ruler). I cannot wrap my head around how, so I ask - Is it possible to do that same joint with fasteners on the inside edges? I'm not real fond of the bowties showing, even with the wood overlay.
Hello, Steve! I'm a cabinetmaker in South Korea. I’ve been thinking about buying a Hoffmann machine. I came across your videos and subscribed to your channel. From the comments on your past video, I noticed that you used to own the MU2 model for a long time. I'm currently thinking about buying an MU2P model. I heard that MU2 is currently discontinued, but there are sellers in my country who have that model in stock. Of course, they also sell MU3, but there is a big price difference. I'm going to use that machine mainly to make drawer boxes. You've used both MU2 and MU3. Is there a big difference between using the two machines? Differences in ease of use, etc… Thank you for posting a lot of informative videos!!👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you. I am glad you enjoy my content. I still have the MU2 machine (21 years now) and still use it. I have given thought to selling it but some of my projects call for different size keys so it is convenient for me to have both machines. I think you are on the right track to go with the pneumatic version as they can clamp greater height pieces than the manual versions which would be useful for drawer boxes.
Functionally, both the MU2 and MU3 machines do the same thing. In my opinion, the primary differences are capacity, convenience, and power:
1) The motor wattage of the MU3 is almost double that of the MU2 (both standard motor configurations). Hoffmann has told me that the standard motor of the MU3 will handle limited use for the W4 bit.
2) The MU3P clamping height capacity is greater than that of the MU2. I can clamp up to 170mm height with the MU3P where my MU2 can only go up to about 115mm.
3) Adjusting bit projection is critical to getting a good joint. Due to a micro adjustment, the MU3 machine is much easier and more accurate to adjust than the MU2. If you just intend on using the same bit size all the time, this is probably less important to you. I change bit sizes frequently so this saves time for me.
4) The table size of the MU3 is greater than the MU2 so it supports longer pieces better. With the MU3, you also have the option to add extension tables for even more support if needed.
5) The dust collection port on the MU2 is at the back of the machine where the MU3 is on the bottom. Both work equally well but the MU2 location is more convenient in my opinion.
One intangible consideration is that I have found uses for the Hoffmann dovetail machine (as I do with most tools) that I had not envisioned at the time of purchase. Some of these uses have been beyond the capacity of my older MU2 so in those instances, I have appreciated the MU3. I hope this helps in making the best decision for you.
Steve
@@extremewoodworker Thank you for the kind reply, Steve! I finally bought the MU2-P machine yesterday and did some tests. Like what you said, it is kind of difficult to adjust the router bit for a good joint. I've already got some cracks on my test mitered boards :( haha. I hope I could get a good joint soon and do a lot of works with the machine for a long time like you :) Thank you, Steve!
@@grgrfmfm Awesome! I am sure you will enjoy this for many years to come. There is definitely a sweet spot for getting a good joint and it can vary depending on the wood species. Sometimes 0.1 mm makes all the difference. Steve
wonderful - how about quater round 3 way ????
Interesting thought. I did this as a test joint for a couple of doll case builds so the stock was scaled to look delicate. This could probably be done with quarter round but would have to be scaled up in size to have enough meat to connect. Steve
@@extremewoodworker thank You very much for replying. Well, today or perhaps tomorrow when warmer, I will take my table saw outside to carport and experiment cuts, because I need to finish mad room with new shiplap panels and must cover all the corners vertical and horizontal. Maybe I do video lol. Greetings from 🇨🇦👍
W1 or W0 ? Thanks for a great idea !!
I thought I had mentioned this. W-2 keys
A very cool machine and/but you'll have to make a lot of boxes to rationalize $5K if I looked it up correctly...
Hi Mike. The MU3PD shown in this video is on loan and the end of the loan period rapidly approaching. I have owned its predecessor (MU2) for going on 19 years now and have never regretted its purchase. I look at this from a value perspective over time. My Hoffmann MU2 cost including accessories (not including keys) over my entire period of ownership is about 37 cents per day and the projects it helps me create will last for generations. I do not use the Hoffmann machine everyday or for every project but, that is the case for virtually every one of the specialty tools that I have.
Years ago, a co-worker asked me how I justified buying high priced tools and equipment. My response was that I don't. These purchases support my hobby, give me decades of use, help me efficiently produce useful and beautiful projects, and I just enjoy using them. Since he was holding a Starbucks in hand when asking this question, I rhetorically asked how he justified purchasing a Starbucks every day. His response was that he liked Starbucks and he had to have it. This coffee costs him about $5 per day and what it produces literally gets flushed in a matter of hours (less as we grow older). Steve
You must have a half million dollars in machines
Nope.