Excellent tutorial. Your perfectionism will pay you for sure and that third rail you made is gorgeous. Even if Marklin have may be the best reputation, after all i don´t think that any manufacturer try to beat their astonishing non stop world record made some forty years ago, but on the other side of the big blue, 3 rails are extremely rare. I´ll stick to 2 and cut that copper "bridge". A big thanks and your trees are very nice too.
Thanks for sharing your skill and tips on DIY 3rail turnouts. I too run Marklin and might be making a few of my own turnouts for slim curved turnouts. But I can see it will take time, a lot of patience and skill, which I'll see if I have. LOL, Kai
Very nice! There are some questions here though: - You say you solder the end of the tracks, as well as the new point contacts, to a piece of copper. How do you then isolate them from each other? I’m thinking you are using a piece of circuit board, coated with copper, where you can make scratches through the copper layer to isolate tracks and point contacts. Am I right? - Interesting to hear you want to avoid track joints! So you solder the next track to the first one when in place? - How flexible are the flex tracks after adding the point contacts? Thanks for your feedback!
You have answered my question from Part 1. Most enjoyable; it is not hard to mount an argument that deserting 3 rail or stud contact was one of the worst mistakes our movement has made. And yes, I am aware of why. Some ideas: 1/ I wonder if copper wire is long-term strong enough? I have pondered long over 3rd rail design; no real conclusions yet, and have left HO anyway. But I still wonder. 2/ Don't forget expansion (non solid-soldered) joints between track lengths. 3/ You are a tiger for roasted fingers. I use square-off ended icy-pole stick, or half a clothes peg, or a short piece of roughly 4mm balsa (preferred) to hold down things for soldering things like that wire. 4/ I have often wondered if this method (apparently first used by Peco?) would look better if the 'loops' were over the ties rather than between them??? 5/Do you find the flanges bottom out on the code 83? 6/ A worry with this system is the lack of width in the stud tops. Marklin's studs are wide enough to support the pickup skate from tipping. 7/ A good idea is to blunt the blade and point of that knife your are using, and to place it down between operations. One reversal when tired can destroy an eye. Have a look at the youtube 3rd Rail channel. I don't recommend anything, but I can point out. For example I would not attempt the following without professional advice: ruclips.net/video/SUM_WW0AFLM/видео.html , but safely effected under supervision it is worth researching. Also, in the unlikely event of your not already knowing ruclips.net/user/marklinofsweden
Some useful comments, thankyou. Also thanx fot the links! About the tipping of the pick-up skate: I was afraid of this myself, but somehow it doesnt happen, not even over turnouts where the skate has to be lifted over the rail. 5. Yes, with older locos it does bottom out, the wheels skid over the tieplates then at some speeds, driving slower solves this. Maybe a good look at the exact wheel distance would be a good idea too. About 4: the idea was to isolate the pickup loops from the ties. On shadow tracks however, this is the easy way to go.
@@trainfanattic Always a pleasure encouraging someone who actually does something. A most interesting reply. Looks like flange bottoming is a problem, or is at least marginal. After that it comes down to flange modification; and what complicates flange modification is the reticence of Marklin to supply spares as widely as in the past. I tried to source (I hate that 'verb') a gear for an NS postal railcar and had no luck. So don't muck-up a wheel whilst grinding down the flanges. (Honestly, who else in the universe could be found having a conversation like this!) The best wheel flange reduction operation I have ever seen was done by a fitter and turner, and he simply used a fine file; all was done with wheels in situ. You might have to flush out the swarf. Martin of Marklin of Sweden might have some ideas. Another web address worth knowing is mkn-digital-train-repairs.com/. The NMRA have an interesting diagram on their turnouts material showing a plan view of a wheel on the crossing gap. It is supported by the closure rail and the v rail so it does not drop. You need to be careful. As a friend who puts up with me says: the rail standards and the wheel standards are system. Watch that knife. I gently warned a youtube channeler about waving a 'loaded' Swann-Morton No 6 around his eyes as he manipulated between cuts, and the comment was deleted. Kids watch us! Thankfully, I have not yet injured myself; but I shudder. Thanks (no name), shall keep out a general eye on your channel.
That's nice ... another modellrailroader told me about your work ... very nice ... I tried too this special work with the third rail (we call it Puko) ... if you may, visite "Haltepunkt Auwiesen" ... now I will listen your Videos ... best regards, Roland
my solution with the turnouts: I use Märklin K-Gleis rails and Peco Code 100 turnouts with nails as the third rail... I am a fan too "Wuerttemberg Epoche 1" but still not to see, may be next 🙄 year ... hope so...
@@HP-Aw-Haltepunkt-Auwiesen sounds good, wuerttemberg epoche I. It is 1910 on my layout, so that excludes a few nice engines. No T18, Tn, G12 or K class for me. Well, I'm not that strict, I have a T18 haha, but the focus is on the earlyer stuff.
@@trainfanattic let's habe fun with it... my trains are the C, K and Kittel from Märklin and a lot Brawa, the passenger train from Roco too .... I am living in Wuerttemberg, so it was a "must have" ... 🤓
Excellent tutorial. Your perfectionism will pay you for sure and that third rail you made is gorgeous. Even if Marklin have may be the best reputation, after all i don´t think that any manufacturer try to beat their astonishing non stop world record made some forty years ago, but on the other side of the big blue, 3 rails are extremely rare. I´ll stick to 2 and cut that copper "bridge". A big thanks and your trees are very nice too.
Very nice and informative video. I've never seen 3 rail done that way before. I've learned a lot today. Thank you
Thanks fot watching!
Have a great new week!! 🚆
Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your skill and tips on DIY 3rail turnouts. I too run Marklin and might be making a few of my own turnouts for slim curved turnouts. But I can see it will take time, a lot of patience and skill, which I'll see if I have. LOL, Kai
Thanks! Good luck with your own turnouts!
great idea making workbench part of your layout
Thankyou!
Interessting Video. Have a nice evening.
Thank you!
Very nice! There are some questions here though:
- You say you solder the end of the tracks, as well as the new point contacts, to a piece of copper. How do you then isolate them from each other? I’m thinking you are using a piece of circuit board, coated with copper, where you can make scratches through the copper layer to isolate tracks and point contacts. Am I right?
- Interesting to hear you want to avoid track joints! So you solder the next track to the first one when in place?
- How flexible are the flex tracks after adding the point contacts?
Thanks for your feedback!
Yes William, you are correct, its circuit board where the top and bottom layer of copper are insulated from eachother. Thanks for watching!
You have answered my question from Part 1. Most enjoyable; it is not hard to mount an argument that deserting 3 rail or stud contact was one of the worst mistakes our movement has made. And yes, I am aware of why.
Some ideas: 1/ I wonder if copper wire is long-term strong enough? I have pondered long over 3rd rail design; no real conclusions yet, and have left HO anyway. But I still wonder. 2/ Don't forget expansion (non solid-soldered) joints between track lengths. 3/ You are a tiger for roasted fingers. I use square-off ended icy-pole stick, or half a clothes peg, or a short piece of roughly 4mm balsa (preferred) to hold down things for soldering things like that wire. 4/ I have often wondered if this method (apparently first used by Peco?) would look better if the 'loops' were over the ties rather than between them??? 5/Do you find the flanges bottom out on the code 83? 6/ A worry with this system is the lack of width in the stud tops. Marklin's studs are wide enough to support the pickup skate from tipping. 7/ A good idea is to blunt the blade and point of that knife your are using, and to place it down between operations. One reversal when tired can destroy an eye.
Have a look at the youtube 3rd Rail channel. I don't recommend anything, but I can point out. For example I would not attempt the following without professional advice: ruclips.net/video/SUM_WW0AFLM/видео.html , but safely effected under supervision it is worth researching. Also, in the unlikely event of your not already knowing ruclips.net/user/marklinofsweden
Some useful comments, thankyou. Also thanx fot the links! About the tipping of the pick-up skate: I was afraid of this myself, but somehow it doesnt happen, not even over turnouts where the skate has to be lifted over the rail. 5. Yes, with older locos it does bottom out, the wheels skid over the tieplates then at some speeds, driving slower solves this. Maybe a good look at the exact wheel distance would be a good idea too. About 4: the idea was to isolate the pickup loops from the ties. On shadow tracks however, this is the easy way to go.
@@trainfanattic Always a pleasure encouraging someone who actually does something.
A most interesting reply.
Looks like flange bottoming is a problem, or is at least marginal. After that it comes down to flange modification; and what complicates flange modification is the reticence of Marklin to supply spares as widely as in the past. I tried to source (I hate that 'verb') a gear for an NS postal railcar and had no luck. So don't muck-up a wheel whilst grinding down the flanges. (Honestly, who else in the universe could be found having a conversation like this!) The best wheel flange reduction operation I have ever seen was done by a fitter and turner, and he simply used a fine file; all was done with wheels in situ. You might have to flush out the swarf. Martin of Marklin of Sweden might have some ideas. Another web address worth knowing is mkn-digital-train-repairs.com/. The NMRA have an interesting diagram on their turnouts material showing a plan view of a wheel on the crossing gap. It is supported by the closure rail and the v rail so it does not drop. You need to be careful. As a friend who puts up with me says: the rail standards and the wheel standards are system.
Watch that knife. I gently warned a youtube channeler about waving a 'loaded' Swann-Morton No 6 around his eyes as he manipulated between cuts, and the comment was deleted. Kids watch us! Thankfully, I have not yet injured myself; but I shudder.
Thanks (no name), shall keep out a general eye on your channel.
Great solution for code 83 rail.
Thankyou!
That's nice ... another modellrailroader told me about your work ... very nice ... I tried too this special work with the third rail (we call it Puko) ... if you may, visite "Haltepunkt Auwiesen" ... now I will listen your Videos ... best regards, Roland
Thank ypu, I'll check out your channel!
my solution with the turnouts: I use Märklin K-Gleis rails and Peco Code 100 turnouts with nails as the third rail... I am a fan too "Wuerttemberg Epoche 1" but still not to see, may be next 🙄 year ... hope so...
@@HP-Aw-Haltepunkt-Auwiesen sounds good, wuerttemberg epoche I. It is 1910 on my layout, so that excludes a few nice engines. No T18, Tn, G12 or K class for me. Well, I'm not that strict, I have a T18 haha, but the focus is on the earlyer stuff.
@@trainfanattic thats okay, let's have fun ... I have the C, tue Kittel an K from Märklin and a lot from Brawa
@@trainfanattic let's habe fun with it... my trains are the C, K and Kittel from Märklin and a lot Brawa, the passenger train from Roco too .... I am living in Wuerttemberg, so it was a "must have" ... 🤓