What is a real shame is that they do not give us any response from the manufacturer. I have personally written to them several times and they do not solve my problem. They don't give the welder for free and neither does the pedal. I'm delighted to see your video and know that I'm not the only crazy one. I hope you can share a solution for users who are not experts in electronics and that we can follow step by step to make the circuit. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, thanks for your comment, here is the VW answer (I didn’t hear from them since): Dear Customer, Thank you for message. This is a great video! Thanks a lot for this. I will forward it to the factory immediately and hope that it will be repaired as soon as possible. Thanks! Unfortunately, I can't say for sure whether it's the device. My guess is that it's the device on the circuit board. Freundliche Grüße, best regards, saludos cordiales, Ihr Team von Vector Welding
You're right in that one fundamental problem of the design is that there's a (too small) pull-up resistor on the machine side - seems to be around 1k on my machine. So no way can you properly control the input by a simple voltage divider. I was inspired by your video and went a bit further - added a couple of operational amplifiers, a transistor and a capacitor, and now it works like I think it should! Check it out ruclips.net/video/Toc_aTVPjqo/видео.htmlsi=_QI4Dl_c8E2RpF6m
Hi, thanks for your comment. I have nothing to compare. No visible bugs, except the pedal. it seems to work flawlessly. I want to play with the variable potentiometer on the pedal (may be to use Logarithmic potentiometer) to get more sensitivity in small amperage region. When I weld 2mm aluminum, I sometimes don’t get enough of sensitivity to cover the crater. Second thing: sometimes you need to get very close to the piece to initiate the arc on aluminum. (Especially when the piece is not 100 clean) Third thing you might be concerned is small wire crossection - 100A max Fourth thing: the arc spark is very bright at the ignition. I use static 11Din glass and my eyes feel it.
nah AC is on the poor side, it doesn't have a good cleaning action, so you can weld extrusions to some degree, but if you are thinking to buy this to weld cast e.g. alloy wheels go buy proper 3phase AC/DC tig
Ciao grazie per il video mi è risultato molto utile per rendere il pedale più modulabile Ho una saldatrice come la tua e il tuo stesso pedale ma sia prima che dopo le modifiche apportare non riesco a superare i 65 ampere Secondo te da cosa potrebbe dipendere?
Hi, thanks for your comment. I’m not sure that the automatic translation was perfect. As far as I understood, you had a similar problem, you modified the pedal as I did and now you are limited to 65Amps, right ?
I feel a bit stupid asking the question. if I have understood this correctly. on the pedal's potentiometer. cut the green cable completely. take the red wire and solder it where the green wire was. don't refit the green cable somewhere?
@@driverinblack hi thanks for the comment. if you don’t refit the green wire you won’t be able to change the current, the machine will give you the max current. Not attaching the green wire is equivalent to unplugging the pedal.
Hi, ive seen a video on spanish since 3years ago and the guy (seller) say there is a procedure to do when u plug the pedal. U need to turn the machine off and turn it on and chek the remote light is on. Because if its not on the machine will use only two pinsof the pedal.
Thanks for your comment. I know that Spanish video you are referring to. It is the initial pedal setting. And it doesn’t solve the problem that I expose here
What is a real shame is that they do not give us any response from the manufacturer. I have personally written to them several times and they do not solve my problem. They don't give the welder for free and neither does the pedal. I'm delighted to see your video and know that I'm not the only crazy one. I hope you can share a solution for users who are not experts in electronics and that we can follow step by step to make the circuit. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Hade you checked with vector why they have this problem?
Hi, thanks for your comment, here is the VW answer (I didn’t hear from them since):
Dear Customer,
Thank you for message.
This is a great video! Thanks a lot for this. I will forward it to the factory immediately and hope that it will be repaired as soon as possible. Thanks!
Unfortunately, I can't say for sure whether it's the device.
My guess is that it's the device on the circuit board.
Freundliche Grüße, best regards, saludos cordiales,
Ihr Team von Vector Welding
Btw, they sent me the second pedal when I first contacted them with the problem, but as we know now, pedal is not a source of the problem
You're right in that one fundamental problem of the design is that there's a (too small) pull-up resistor on the machine side - seems to be around 1k on my machine. So no way can you properly control the input by a simple voltage divider. I was inspired by your video and went a bit further - added a couple of operational amplifiers, a transistor and a capacitor, and now it works like I think it should! Check it out ruclips.net/video/Toc_aTVPjqo/видео.htmlsi=_QI4Dl_c8E2RpF6m
Nice! Are you glad about this machine for aluminium welding ?
Hi, thanks for your comment. I have nothing to compare. No visible bugs, except the pedal. it seems to work flawlessly. I want to play with the variable potentiometer on the pedal (may be to use Logarithmic potentiometer) to get more sensitivity in small amperage region. When I weld 2mm aluminum, I sometimes don’t get enough of sensitivity to cover the crater. Second thing: sometimes you need to get very close to the piece to initiate the arc on aluminum. (Especially when the piece is not 100 clean)
Third thing you might be concerned is small wire crossection - 100A max
Fourth thing: the arc spark is very bright at the ignition. I use static 11Din glass and my eyes feel it.
nah AC is on the poor side, it doesn't have a good cleaning action, so you can weld extrusions to some degree, but if you are thinking to buy this to weld cast e.g. alloy wheels go buy proper 3phase AC/DC tig
@@MM2009Hi, wich machine is 3phase ac ? Thanks
Ciao grazie per il video mi è risultato molto utile per rendere il pedale più modulabile
Ho una saldatrice come la tua e il tuo stesso pedale ma sia prima che dopo le modifiche apportare non riesco a superare i 65 ampere
Secondo te da cosa potrebbe dipendere?
Hi, thanks for your comment. I’m not sure that the automatic translation was perfect. As far as I understood, you had a similar problem, you modified the pedal as I did and now you are limited to 65Amps, right ?
Thanks
You understand well but the problem was before the modify
I feel a bit stupid asking the question.
if I have understood this correctly. on the pedal's potentiometer. cut the green cable completely. take the red wire and solder it where the green wire was. don't refit the green cable somewhere?
@@driverinblack hi thanks for the comment.
if you don’t refit the green wire you won’t be able to change the current, the machine will give you the max current. Not attaching the green wire is equivalent to unplugging the pedal.
@@ValkusR
so the green cable should go into 3 and 5. remove the red cable that goes from 5 and 7 completely? have I understood it correctly?
Hi, ive seen a video on spanish since 3years ago and the guy (seller) say there is a procedure to do when u plug the pedal. U need to turn the machine off and turn it on and chek the remote light is on. Because if its not on the machine will use only two pinsof the pedal.
Thanks for your comment. I know that Spanish video you are referring to. It is the initial pedal setting. And it doesn’t solve the problem that I expose here