Boat Transom and Floor Rebuild - Volvo Penta Gimbal Housing Assembly (1 of 2) - Part 60
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- This is a critical video to watch. Lots of tips in here that will make your Volvo Penta/OMC Cobra install go super smooth. Pay close attention to some of the best practices I show in this episode as they will save you boat loads of time.
3M-8011 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive
3M-8001 Yellow Super Weatherstrip Adhesive
Start at center top cutting a 45 degree on neoprene gasket. Run a 6" bead of adhesive in casting gasket relief, lay gasket in and then pull a half inch away and let dry for 40 seconds then press gasket back into mating surface pressing in firmly and let stand for 20 min for initial set so the rest can be readily installed. Repeat 6" beading all the way around until reaching the end. Cut again excess gasket at 45 degrees then coating joint both mating surfaces, pulling apart letting dry for 40 seconds then firmly pressing for a finished fit. Let all thoroughly dry before installing to transom
Thanks for the added details!
@@michaelromer2016 Hi Michael, thank-you for the videos. I used to be an autobody man about 40 years ago. I've always been interested in stern drives and how they transom mate and work. I'm seriously contemplating building a medium wooden drop bow Dory landing craft for diving with a Volvo Penta stern drive unit and am building a current information library filled with content such as yours. Thanks!
How critical is it that the transom plate is sitting flat?
Hi Michael. Whst would cause a water leak at the bottom bracket of the transom. Water is pouring in coming out at the hole of the bottom bracket
90% chance it’s a rotted transom, which is part of the boat itself. There’s also a seal that keeps water out-called the transom seal. Either way, motor must come out.
@@michaelromer2016 Thanks Michael. Transom seems pretty solid still. I hope its the seal
Could you just not mount longer bolts? Sanding down the transom to match the bolt length sounds excessive work. Sure the driveshaft will not go in as long but up to half an inch should be ok, no? Am I thinking the wrong way now?
Great questions. I'm sure the shaft not going in the engine coupler as far, wouldn't hurt in the short term. I worry about metal fatigue due in part to less drive shaft surface area inside the engine coupler. As far as longer studs, sure that could work. The time you will spend installing them would make it not worth your time. Try to stick to the thickness I mentioned. I've gone too thick before with a prior project and it took me an hour cut some material out of the transom.
How critical is it that the transom plate is sitting flat?