Thanks John. I am putting the finishing touches on a DIY injection molding machine (similar principle to the LNS 150A, but bigger) and am looking forward to learning my way through some of the lessons you shared.
It's definitely a fun process. My suggestion is just go for it. You'll learn more from your failures than your successes. And start with simpler designs and work your way up.
Hi John, never knew of these or this process, we have had USA injection mold clam shell sets made for us in the past, but that was an outside service, so this is VERY interesting to learn from you about John and it is a great way to keep prototyping and small run work in-house as we love to be able to always do (learn), seems reasonably affordable as well. Nice lesson understanding to us. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks guys. It definitely opens up many possibilities, especially for small parts like you guys make. If you want to collaborate on a project, please send me an email. I think that would be fun. P.S. Are you by an chance going to the Bar Z Summer Bash next weekend? I'll be there.
@@JohnSL Working on a future project would be great you see our interest is what you identified as we do small parts so yes that makes this injection mold well within range no project just yet though John. We are so happy to know of this as mentioned. That summer bar event you are attending we do not go, we do not know the host either huh. John it is in the same county we are located in though two different worlds as this is the largest county (San Bernardino) in the continuous 48 states. You have a great time and someday we are still likely to meet. Thank you again. L&P.
Thanks for making this great video. It's nice to get an overview of the timing/speed adjustments on these pneumatic presses. I'm curious about how the heating chambers on these machines are mounted, and how they make contact with the mold. I assume they have to descend when the ram descends with enough pressure that they don't leak. How does that work? Are they floating in some way? Thanks again for the video. I've been watching a lot of your videos recently since I started doing some home brew injection molding.
They're mounted to the column with screws that are in slotted holes, and have springs. The ram pushes the heating chamber against the mold, which provides a good seal to keep the plastic from coming out.
I found your vid's last week and love the content. Great stuff. Have you covered a vid on a supplier for colored pellets? I will be designing a pellet maker based off of your approach (for ABS in different colors) but wanted to ask if you use that material you make/cut or just ended up buying it?
I haven't. From what I know, getting custom colored pellets means buying a minimum of 55 pounds (if I recall correctly). And that's way more than I can use. That's why I'm chopping up filament.
It's made by Mac Valves Inc. The model on this machine is 811C-PM-111BA-152, which doesn't seem to be made anymore. My valve is having problems, so I'm going to tear it down and see if I can fix it. If not, I'll be replacing it with a newer valve. That will be the subject of a future video.
I can't believe how dangerous these desktop machines are. What's the plan if a body part gets caught between the mold halves? The production manager in me freaks a little when unsafe machinery is used
You'll need to contact them. I purchased my AB-100/150 (it's a 100 with upgraded to be more like a 150) used on eBay over 10 years ago. Rulon also purchased his machine used.
The main thing is the cost of molds. Molds for desktop injection molding machines are a lot less expensive because they’re much easier to make. But that assumes the part is small enough and doesn’t have complicated features. In those cases, hundreds of parts. This is based on molds costing around $1,000. When you get to larger or more complicated parts, generally thousands of parts.
I have the Emco 999 but I've found that information on its operation is pretty tough to find online. I have a manual I've ordered for it but I'm curious to know if your emco features in any of your other videos?
There isn't much to it, and I've never had a manual for my Emco. There are basically two things you can change: the temperature and the pressure on the cylinder. So the operation instructions are turn it on, wait until the heating light goes out, add plastic, clamp the mold, press injection for a few seconds, and take the mold out. Was there anything specific you were looking for?
Hello, John - Very interesting & informative video.. I have the 2/3 oz version of the pneumatic Emco molder. It came with a small matching compressor that needs to be switched on for every injection (no holding tank). I'd love to hook this up to my larger vertical compressor - I'm curious what sort of intermediary valve set-up you have on yours, if any... The large compressor has a small moisture filter on it. Do you think another should be added, closer to the molder? Any info would be much appreciated - Best, Aaron
I was having problems with water in the are and used a water filter near the compressor. I found that upgrading to a 30 gallon compressor made a huge difference in the amount of water in the air. With smaller compressors, the water stays in the air. But with the larger tank, it does a much better job falling to the bottom.
@@JohnSL Thanks, John! - Mine's a 20 gallon so I'll see how that does for now.. Did you put any extra air controls between the compressor and molder or did you find that one valve on top of the Emco was all you needed to deal with? The valve on mine kind of sticks & I have to give it a pull to retract the ram.. Still fairly new to pneumatics & trying to be safe.
Absolutely. And in fact my Emco has a tapped hole on the side already so it would be easy to add an end stop. However, I rarely use that machine anymore, so probably won't get around to updating it.
I talk about clamping force in my latest video, which covers my Travin TP-1 that has a 25mm diameter plunger, and how to make some parts (not very quickly) when they're larger than the clamping force will allow on desktop machines.
@@JohnSL Hi John call me dumb but if I have a 125mm bore with a 30mm ram what clamp force would that need? The force of the ram I think works out to 1250kg at 10 bar
Some people have had success with 3D printed molds. But they don't last for very many parts. Another option, which I haven't tried, is to use epoxy with metal powder mixed in. Here is an example: www.instructables.com/Home-Plastic-Injection-Molding-with-an-Epoxy-Mold/
Email is better, as this is a hobby for me and I have a day job that keeps me busy. On my RUclips site, click on the About tab in the upper-right, then there will be a button to view my email address.
Thanks John. I am putting the finishing touches on a DIY injection molding machine (similar principle to the LNS 150A, but bigger) and am looking forward to learning my way through some of the lessons you shared.
It's definitely a fun process. My suggestion is just go for it. You'll learn more from your failures than your successes. And start with simpler designs and work your way up.
I thoroughly enjoyed this vid. I appreciated that it highlighted key points for success in injection molding.
Just found your channel, I like how you are not dumbing all info down... Enjoy the info.
Thanks and welcome
Hi John, never knew of these or this process, we have had USA injection mold clam shell sets made for us in the past, but that was an outside service, so this is VERY interesting to learn from you about John and it is a great way to keep prototyping and small run work in-house as we love to be able to always do (learn), seems reasonably affordable as well. Nice lesson understanding to us. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks guys. It definitely opens up many possibilities, especially for small parts like you guys make. If you want to collaborate on a project, please send me an email. I think that would be fun. P.S. Are you by an chance going to the Bar Z Summer Bash next weekend? I'll be there.
@@JohnSL Working on a future project would be great you see our interest is what you identified as we do small parts so yes that makes this injection mold well within range no project just yet though John. We are so happy to know of this as mentioned. That summer bar event you are attending we do not go, we do not know the host either huh. John it is in the same county we are located in though two different worlds as this is the largest county (San Bernardino) in the continuous 48 states. You have a great time and someday we are still likely to meet. Thank you again. L&P.
Great overview. Thank you very much!
Interesting and informative video.
Very enjoyable, thank you.
Great video John 👍
Thanks 👍
Hi John, would you recommend pneumatic injection molder for a part around 100 grams?
Excellent Video- Thank you for the wonderful content! Very informative.
Thanks John, Very interesting...Enjoyed
Thank you.
Thanks for making this great video. It's nice to get an overview of the timing/speed adjustments on these pneumatic presses. I'm curious about how the heating chambers on these machines are mounted, and how they make contact with the mold. I assume they have to descend when the ram descends with enough pressure that they don't leak. How does that work? Are they floating in some way? Thanks again for the video. I've been watching a lot of your videos recently since I started doing some home brew injection molding.
They're mounted to the column with screws that are in slotted holes, and have springs. The ram pushes the heating chamber against the mold, which provides a good seal to keep the plastic from coming out.
@@JohnSL Yes it seemed like it had to be able to move/be pressed against the mold, but I couldn't find any pictures of how that worked. Thanks!
Great very informative video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi John where did you get your pneumatic hydraulic clamp from on the AB 100? Thanks for all the great content 👍
Thank you,Very informative.
You are welcome!
Nice content, we agree with you.
Yes very useful thanks
I found your vid's last week and love the content. Great stuff.
Have you covered a vid on a supplier for colored pellets? I will be designing a pellet maker based off of your approach (for ABS in different colors) but wanted to ask if you use that material you make/cut or just ended up buying it?
I haven't. From what I know, getting custom colored pellets means buying a minimum of 55 pounds (if I recall correctly). And that's way more than I can use. That's why I'm chopping up filament.
Thank you for the informative video. I always enjoy your deep explanations.
What is the brand of electromechanical timer used with the AB100 ?
It's made by Mac Valves Inc. The model on this machine is 811C-PM-111BA-152, which doesn't seem to be made anymore. My valve is having problems, so I'm going to tear it down and see if I can fix it. If not, I'll be replacing it with a newer valve. That will be the subject of a future video.
I John, I am making a part about 6 inch long x 2 inch wide x .400" thick. WHat injection mahcine would you suggest?
Thanks John!!
You're welcom.
Thank you!
have you tried to make the mold using cement?
Please make a video about it
I can't believe how dangerous these desktop machines are. What's the plan if a body part gets caught between the mold halves? The production manager in me freaks a little when unsafe machinery is used
The clamping cylinder has a very short stroke of just 1/4". So it's safer than it might at first seem.
بالتوفيق والنجاح ، متابع معك من سورية 🌹
Thank you.
Excellent video. How much do those A.B. Plastic Injector machines run for?
You'll need to contact them. I purchased my AB-100/150 (it's a 100 with upgraded to be more like a 150) used on eBay over 10 years ago. Rulon also purchased his machine used.
This channel is 👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great video! well explained.What quantity is it suitable for injected molded parts?
The main thing is the cost of molds. Molds for desktop injection molding machines are a lot less expensive because they’re much easier to make. But that assumes the part is small enough and doesn’t have complicated features. In those cases, hundreds of parts. This is based on molds costing around $1,000. When you get to larger or more complicated parts, generally thousands of parts.
What’s the biggest size piece you can make
I have the Emco 999 but I've found that information on its operation is pretty tough to find online. I have a manual I've ordered for it but I'm curious to know if your emco features in any of your other videos?
There isn't much to it, and I've never had a manual for my Emco. There are basically two things you can change: the temperature and the pressure on the cylinder. So the operation instructions are turn it on, wait until the heating light goes out, add plastic, clamp the mold, press injection for a few seconds, and take the mold out. Was there anything specific you were looking for?
Could you do a video about overseas short-run injection molding in small quantities? Like 20-50?
I don't know anything about that. It seems like a quantity of 20-50 would be better done with 3D printing or casting from silicon molds.
Hello, John - Very interesting & informative video..
I have the 2/3 oz version of the pneumatic Emco molder. It came with a small matching compressor that needs to be switched on for every injection (no holding tank).
I'd love to hook this up to my larger vertical compressor - I'm curious what sort of intermediary valve set-up you have on yours, if any...
The large compressor has a small moisture filter on it. Do you think another should be added, closer to the molder?
Any info would be much appreciated - Best, Aaron
I was having problems with water in the are and used a water filter near the compressor. I found that upgrading to a 30 gallon compressor made a huge difference in the amount of water in the air. With smaller compressors, the water stays in the air. But with the larger tank, it does a much better job falling to the bottom.
@@JohnSL Thanks, John! - Mine's a 20 gallon so I'll see how that does for now.. Did you put any extra air controls between the compressor and molder or did you find that one valve on top of the Emco was all you needed to deal with? The valve on mine kind of sticks & I have to give it a pull to retract the ram.. Still fairly new to pneumatics & trying to be safe.
many of those things could be added to any machine in a few minutes. Such as that mold stop and pusher
Absolutely. And in fact my Emco has a tapped hole on the side already so it would be easy to add an end stop. However, I rarely use that machine anymore, so probably won't get around to updating it.
where's the morgan press? (i guess not a desktop machine)
Yup, not a desktop machine.
Hi John I have 1.25 tone on a 30mm ram is this going to be ok for larger parts?
I talk about clamping force in my latest video, which covers my Travin TP-1 that has a 25mm diameter plunger, and how to make some parts (not very quickly) when they're larger than the clamping force will allow on desktop machines.
@@JohnSL
Hi John call me dumb but if I have a 125mm bore with a 30mm ram what clamp force would that need?
The force of the ram I think works out to 1250kg at 10 bar
How long would it take to run 100 parts on the blue machine?
It depends on the part, but for simple parts, 100/hour is realistic.
عندي سؤال ، ممكن اعمل قوالب ( اسطمبات) من الريزين ( بولبستر ) وشكرا
Some people have had success with 3D printed molds. But they don't last for very many parts. Another option, which I haven't tried, is to use epoxy with metal powder mixed in. Here is an example: www.instructables.com/Home-Plastic-Injection-Molding-with-an-Epoxy-Mold/
Como adquirir um produto desse
Hola nececito una máquina por favor me puede decir el precio soy de Colombia
I don't sell machines--these are machines I purchased from eBay used.
Sir i want how can i call u
Email is better, as this is a hobby for me and I have a day job that keeps me busy. On my RUclips site, click on the About tab in the upper-right, then there will be a button to view my email address.