For the 3 hotbed y axis screws I was turned on to a product called "gear floss" to clean them, they use it on bicycle gears to clean them, works great!
Good video. Just a small tip, what I like to do for a good deep clean on the Z axis is a soft bristle tooth brush that I dip in isopropyl to really get in there.
Great advice! I particularly liked how thorough you were with explaining how to tighten the belts. I will say that the multiple times the subscribe logo appeared with a sound effect was a bit unpleasant
I understand! my gain level was down so when this published i realized the level was a bit loud. we will continue to work on this. Thank you for your feedback and support!
Nice video. I do have a concern about using the oil on the lead screws. Bambu Lab recommends grease. While Super Lube is good stuff it is a lightweight oil. Super Lube makes grease and its recommended due to sticking around longer than oil in the warm chamber.
We are currently doing a comparison video using both lightweight oil and the heavy grease. So far both have been doing fine other then the grease collecting the residue and turning dark. We will post when its done. No issues mechanically however. Thanks for your support!
I’m pretty sure you should completely unplug the printer before moving the print head by hand. Moving it generates power in the motors and can damage things.
Negative, you need the unit on in order to move the head around and reduce the slack in the cables. when your servicing the head and moving it around, the head will generate electricity causing some of the lights to light up. I assure you that this is normal and all part of the cleaning process. Have a great day!
in the video SUPER LUBE ISO 68 but the picture showsISO 32 and I accidentally bought generally ISO 100 and do not understand what still need and whether my ISO100 will be very grateful for a detailed answer.
ISO ratings refer to the viscosity of the lubricant. ISO 32 and ISO 68 are lighter oils better suited for 3D printer components, ensuring smooth motion and even distribution. ISO 100 is much thicker and can cause issues like buildup or drag on precision parts. If you’ve already applied ISO 100, clean it off and switch to ISO 32 or 68 as recommended. Using ISO 100 temporarily might work with caution, but it’s not ideal for long-term use. spread it out on a cloth and wipe it on to avoid too much.
Any sign of the carbon rod wearing , any play in the printhead? Just wondering how many hours you could expect before having to replace these carbon rods. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
So far we have been running through the night non stop and the carbon rods have been doing great. I do see where its critical on the maintenance because of the buildup of residue on the ABS. We will continue to post videos as we run into issues and tips to make these run at tip top performance. Thanks for your feedback and support!
Thanks for the video, what program/webportal are you using for scheduling the maintenance? At the moment I'm using Trello, though wondering if there is something better?
We have created an excel spreadsheet with the units, dates and other columns to keep track of the progress of each unit. We share it and update as a team
Light weight oil is no good for lead screws. Use heavy grease. The oil will leak into bearing and collect dust forever. The build-up will get so out of control that you'll have to replace the bearings eventually.
We are currently doing a comparison video using both lightweight oil and the heavy grease. So far both have been doing fine other then the grease collecting the residue and turning dark. We will post when its done. No issues mechanically however. Thanks for your support!
@@Rakku NAaa if you use these like we do, the heavy grease becomes gummy with the offgassing using ABS. the light oil is far more superior as our current studies show. bambu reccomends this for your standard projects. We run a non stop print farm and its just too gummy on the guide screws. We are currently at 34 X1C farm
What do you print for your business? All I could find out was RV accessories, are you pushing out that much volume that 25 printers is needed? If so very impressive, but I think you have other products you make, just wondering if you could share.
we handle the OEM manufacturing lines. We are on Amazon and just got accepted into Walmart. All of our designs have design and utility patents. we are at 34 units but we are heading the injection molding route. Thanks for your follow!
We are in iwht some of the manufacturers and have design and utility patents. We are on Amazon and recently got into Walmart. We are at 34 X1-c farm right now. Thanks so much for your support!
My dude. This is something you have to do every time. It generates power even when unplugged and this is required to service and clean the rods. This seems to be a concern in the groups as well showing that not many service them to this caliber. its totally normal.. Thanks for the eye
all of our equipment are on high end gimbals. Im sorry you encountered this. I also had the gain on the background music a bit too high which interferes with the video. We are continuing to work on this. Thank you for your support.
i really don´t like you "moving" the print head around with the speed you are, you are pushing power back into the board, i know also from my Mk3S just small movements, will make the screen go on... and flicker... it is not healthy for the board.. we also know that from PC repair, when working with fans.. you NEVER blow air into a fan and let it freespin. because it becomes a generator..
For the 3 hotbed y axis screws I was turned on to a product called "gear floss" to clean them, they use it on bicycle gears to clean them, works great!
Good video. Just a small tip, what I like to do for a good deep clean on the Z axis is a soft bristle tooth brush that I dip in isopropyl to really get in there.
I like this. We will definitely order some brush assortments for this! Thank you for your feedback and support!
Just got my first warning, so today's my maintenance day! So glad I found this video, thank you!!
Nice! Good to see how professionals maintain their printers - thanks for showing!
Thank you for your feedback and support. We are here to grow together.
Are you serious call professional to this? God please, this is stupidity, try to do maintenance to an aircraft.
Great guide - step by step and easy to follow! Thanks!
Fantastic video. Thanks!
Great advice! I particularly liked how thorough you were with explaining how to tighten the belts. I will say that the multiple times the subscribe logo appeared with a sound effect was a bit unpleasant
I understand! my gain level was down so when this published i realized the level was a bit loud. we will continue to work on this. Thank you for your feedback and support!
Nice video. I do have a concern about using the oil on the lead screws. Bambu Lab recommends grease. While Super Lube is good stuff it is a lightweight oil.
Super Lube makes grease and its recommended due to sticking around longer than oil in the warm chamber.
We are currently doing a comparison video using both lightweight oil and the heavy grease. So far both have been doing fine other then the grease collecting the residue and turning dark. We will post when its done. No issues mechanically however. Thanks for your support!
Great guide, thanks!
I'm still saving up to buy one Bambu to replace my possessed Ender 😢 . One day, one Day 😊
How is your Ender Possessed...lol 😂
I'd there was a ❤ button, I would hit it. Great vid
This is great. THank you for doing this.
I’m pretty sure you should completely unplug the printer before moving the print head by hand. Moving it generates power in the motors and can damage things.
Negative, you need the unit on in order to move the head around and reduce the slack in the cables. when your servicing the head and moving it around, the head will generate electricity causing some of the lights to light up. I assure you that this is normal and all part of the cleaning process. Have a great day!
@@arcadiaeverything why does Bambu say to disconnect power? Why am I able to easily move the tool head even when off?
Lose the annoying music!
Honestly you guys saved me on sooo much time. KINGS! Subscribed! 👑🔥
Where does the oiling of the rollers go?? this is an important point!
keep watching and we literally show you. This is critical to the proper operation of the unit. Thanks for your support!
@@arcadiaeverything
@@arcadiaeverything This is what I'm talking about, it's not in the video!...
@@Polika270 look at 8:50 mark. We literally show you. Thanks for your support!
@@arcadiaeverything I think he means the belt pulleys and not the Z-axis screws. Thanks for this video!!
in the video SUPER LUBE ISO 68 but the picture showsISO 32 and I accidentally bought generally ISO 100 and do not understand what still need and whether my ISO100 will be very grateful for a detailed answer.
ISO ratings refer to the viscosity of the lubricant. ISO 32 and ISO 68 are lighter oils better suited for 3D printer components, ensuring smooth motion and even distribution. ISO 100 is much thicker and can cause issues like buildup or drag on precision parts. If you’ve already applied ISO 100, clean it off and switch to ISO 32 or 68 as recommended. Using ISO 100 temporarily might work with caution, but it’s not ideal for long-term use. spread it out on a cloth and wipe it on to avoid too much.
Any sign of the carbon rod wearing , any play in the printhead? Just wondering how many hours you could expect before having to replace these carbon rods. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
So far we have been running through the night non stop and the carbon rods have been doing great. I do see where its critical on the maintenance because of the buildup of residue on the ABS. We will continue to post videos as we run into issues and tips to make these run at tip top performance. Thanks for your feedback and support!
Thanks for the video, what program/webportal are you using for scheduling the maintenance? At the moment I'm using Trello, though wondering if there is something better?
We have created an excel spreadsheet with the units, dates and other columns to keep track of the progress of each unit. We share it and update as a team
@@arcadiaeverything thanks, I'm going to have to implement something similar.
Light weight oil is no good for lead screws. Use heavy grease. The oil will leak into bearing and collect dust forever. The build-up will get so out of control that you'll have to replace the bearings eventually.
Came here to say this
We are currently doing a comparison video using both lightweight oil and the heavy grease. So far both have been doing fine other then the grease collecting the residue and turning dark. We will post when its done. No issues mechanically however. Thanks for your support!
@@arcadiaeverything Well, Bambu itself advises heavy grease for the lead screws and lightweight oil for idlers and the other rods.
@@Rakku NAaa if you use these like we do, the heavy grease becomes gummy with the offgassing using ABS. the light oil is far more superior as our current studies show. bambu reccomends this for your standard projects. We run a non stop print farm and its just too gummy on the guide screws. We are currently at 34 X1C farm
What do you print for your business? All I could find out was RV accessories, are you pushing out that much volume that 25 printers is needed? If so very impressive, but I think you have other products you make, just wondering if you could share.
we handle the OEM manufacturing lines. We are on Amazon and just got accepted into Walmart. All of our designs have design and utility patents. we are at 34 units but we are heading the injection molding route. Thanks for your follow!
@@arcadiaeverything That's very impressive, thanks for sharing. Best of luck to you guys
We are in iwht some of the manufacturers and have design and utility patents. We are on Amazon and recently got into Walmart. We are at 34 X1-c farm right now. Thanks so much for your support!
Music to loud and distracting. Otherwise good information.
Yes. I will work on that!
I hope this heads have a diode, because this guy may fry the board with reverse DC power every time he slides the head on the rods.
My dude. This is something you have to do every time. It generates power even when unplugged and this is required to service and clean the rods. This seems to be a concern in the groups as well showing that not many service them to this caliber. its totally normal.. Thanks for the eye
Please stop the elvator music. We are not watching timelapses, we are trying to listen to you.
The gain was up too high in production. It should have been lower. We will work on this. I appreciate your feedback and support
The camera movement is making me dissy. Sorry to say i had to stop watching after a few minutes.
all of our equipment are on high end gimbals. Im sorry you encountered this. I also had the gain on the background music a bit too high which interferes with the video. We are continuing to work on this. Thank you for your support.
get rid of that music!
Yes the gain was high in post production. Sorry..
i really don´t like you "moving" the print head around with the speed you are, you are pushing power back into the board, i know also from my Mk3S just small movements, will make the screen go on... and flicker... it is not healthy for the board.. we also know that from PC repair, when working with fans.. you NEVER blow air into a fan and let it freespin. because it becomes a generator..