Good video. I used to do this on my MG - I did valve no. 1 with no. 8 full open and did all other valves where the sum of the open valve added up to 9. e,g. check no 3. with number 6 fully down. Check no. 4 with no. 5 fully down. As long as they add up to 9 you can't go wrong.
Makes no difference and you're better off setting them a little tight at .011/.012. SO many people get worked up about the spec when in reality there is a LOT of "wiggle" room(literally). IF it were a critical spec it would be required to be set with a dial gauge...a lot of variation between feelers and how people "feel". Also, the ONLY reason there's a "hot and cold" spec was so techs wouldn't need to let an engine cool down. Oh...and the gap doesn't increase .002" but the oil changes the feel. I've been building all sorts of engines for two decades...set these things so they don't rattle like an old Singer sewing machine. Also...with hardened valve seats and new SS valves you're NOT burning out valve faces and seats even if they're a little tight. I own a 73 "B" and know these cars VERY well...
Different strokes. Makes no difference to the engine. Also, obviously hydro's ARE set running much more often than flat tappet. But you knew that right?????????
Really high quality content and good tips to pick up! Thanks
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Good video. I used to do this on my MG - I did valve no. 1 with no. 8 full open and did all other valves where the sum of the open valve added up to 9. e,g. check no 3. with number 6 fully down. Check no. 4 with no. 5 fully down. As long as they add up to 9 you can't go wrong.
Quick note: The manufacturer's suggested .013" is for a hot engine. For a cold engine, it should be .015". This is a great video, BTW.
Makes no difference and you're better off setting them a little tight at .011/.012. SO many people get worked up about the spec when in reality there is a LOT of "wiggle" room(literally). IF it were a critical spec it would be required to be set with a dial gauge...a lot of variation between feelers and how people "feel". Also, the ONLY reason there's a "hot and cold" spec was so techs wouldn't need to let an engine cool down. Oh...and the gap doesn't increase .002" but the oil changes the feel. I've been building all sorts of engines for two decades...set these things so they don't rattle like an old Singer sewing machine. Also...with hardened valve seats and new SS valves you're NOT burning out valve faces and seats even if they're a little tight. I own a 73 "B" and know these cars VERY well...
@@TakeDeadAimI have a '77 that I'm rebuilding. Do you think I should set it at .013 cold?
Go with the cams manufacture specs if not stock. My fast road is .016 hot. It can and will wipe a cam being too tight for the specs.
adjusted a 1957 Morris Minor valves with the same OHV train
Right on! Maintenance can be both the most fun and most rewarding part of owning a classic or antique car.
8:48 Literally listened to engine run for two seconds. Laughable
Viewing as a lay person, I would have thought cylinder 3 was a little too tight?
Never heard of adjusting the valves with the motor running?????? Did it that way for 50 years.
Different strokes. Makes no difference to the engine. Also, obviously hydro's ARE set running much more often than flat tappet. But you knew that right?????????
I know Larry he is my friends grandpa lol