I bought a Winchester 92, and Colt SAA companion set in 38/40 WCF, so I'm going back into reloading by necessity. I haven't loaded pistol ammo in quite a few years, so needed a refresher. Thanks for the great tutorial!
I was loading some 38 brass and a 357 shell got mixed up in the box and I put that thing in there and went to decap and resize it well it did but it got stuck I thought I had ruined my die. But after some hard pulling on the press handle it finally came out. Morel of this story is to look 👀 at each and every shell before running in the die. The die will do 38/357 but it has to be adjusted for it.
I just purchased a 444 marlin and need to know more about reloading it. I have been reloading bottle neck cartridges for a long time but not straight wall.
@@atlyvwire 6000 rnds in the last 5-6 months. As long as we get an abundance of primers, the rest is easy! No telling what happens when that moron biden steals the presidency...
At what point do you clean your brass? The cases in the video appear not to be cleaned and polished yet. Do you use the double drum rock tumbler on your bench for part of the reloading process?
When I made that video I didn’t have the new sonic cleaner that I have now. Now I use the sonic cleaner exclusively prior to any sizing and reloading. I usually clean them after resizing and De capping.
@@atlyvwire I clean my brass before I size the case. Do not want the dirt damaging the sizing die. I use the old style locking ring by either using a nylon tip set screw or drop a lead shot in the set screw hole if you do not intend to adjust later.
That’s a really good question! I do know that boat tails guide themselves in there for rifle. But when we resize rifle we expand the case mouth when the expander ball is pulled back up after sizing. when we resize straight wall cases we are squeezing them down. so yes for your straight wall cases you should bell the mouth just a little or you might shave the projectile when inserting it into the case.
Yes. Only after the case has been sized and case mouth belled. Then insert the primer. Otherwise when you bell the case mouth, air pressure in the case created from the belling tool when pushed down can push the primer out and make it proud.
@@victorv4340 The only die in there that has carbide in it is the sizing/de-priming die. You can see the carbide insert, the rest of the die is just steel. The others can be seated down to the ram as they are only steel. On my Lee set the carbide is recessed from the steel bottom of the die some so not entirely necessary for the gap either but many loaders still do. My RCBS set the carbide insert is closer to flush with the steel bottom of the die so I do use the paper/cardboard spacer when setting up as an insurance measure.
"....shell holder that comes with the kit"? When did RCBS start adding free shell holders to their non-premium die sets? I've used them for thirty years, and every shell holder I ever had came at a separate cost.
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I know that this video is 3 years old but you have helped me significantly. Now I have work to do. Thank you Sir
I’m glad I was able to help, now get back to work. 😁😁
Never thought of using calipers when belling..... You sir have been a great help.
I bought a Winchester 92, and Colt SAA companion set in 38/40 WCF, so I'm going back into reloading by necessity. I haven't loaded pistol ammo in quite a few years, so needed a refresher. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thank you for your videos, your information is clear, concise and no nonsense, I'm not so new to reloading now.
Glad you enjoyed the videos and I’m glad I could help!!
@@atlyvwire very much appreciated mate.
I was loading some 38 brass and a 357 shell got mixed up in the box and I put that thing in there and went to decap and resize it well it did but it got stuck I thought I had ruined my die. But after some hard pulling on the press handle it finally came out. Morel of this story is to look 👀 at each and every shell before running in the die.
The die will do 38/357 but it has to be adjusted for it.
I just purchased a 444 marlin and need to know more about reloading it. I have been reloading bottle neck cartridges for a long time but not straight wall.
While I was listening to this I reloaded 100 rounds of 9 start to finish. Go Dillon!
Keep pumpin em out!!
@@atlyvwire 6000 rnds in the last 5-6 months. As long as we get an abundance of primers, the rest is easy! No telling what happens when that moron biden steals the presidency...
@@shaverlocal I do have rounds. I have no idea what the future holds, but my powder is dry and my primers are stocked!! 😎
@@atlyvwire Wishing you the best friend!
The Blue Press is the Best!! Lol
Great vid ! Did help me a lot !
This really helped as I am new to reloading.
Very informative videos! What recommendations do you have for a tumbler to clean the brass?
At what point do you clean your brass?
The cases in the video appear not to be cleaned and polished yet.
Do you use the double drum rock tumbler on your bench for part of the reloading process?
When I made that video I didn’t have the new sonic cleaner that I have now.
Now I use the sonic cleaner exclusively prior to any sizing and reloading. I usually clean them after resizing and De capping.
@@atlyvwire Do you do gems also?
I noticed the rock tumbler on your bench.
@@jamesglenn520 nah, it just collects dust and sits as a backup. 😎
@@atlyvwire I clean my brass before I size the case. Do not want the dirt damaging the sizing die.
I use the old style locking ring by either using a nylon tip set screw or drop a lead shot in the set screw hole if you do not intend to adjust later.
I'm reloading 38 super with the 3 carbide die set up. For the 147gr Hornady xtp do you have to bell or flare still since they have a boat tail?
That’s a really good question!
I do know that boat tails guide themselves in there for rifle. But when we resize rifle we expand the case mouth when the expander ball is pulled back up after sizing. when we resize straight wall cases we are squeezing them down. so yes for your straight wall cases you should bell the mouth just a little or you might shave the projectile when inserting it into the case.
This is the step where you would use the priming arm if you use that correct?
Yes. Only after the case has been sized and case mouth belled. Then insert the primer. Otherwise when you bell the case mouth, air pressure in the case created from the belling tool when pushed down can push the primer out and make it proud.
Should I use a round or swc bullet seat for xtp hollow points?
What caliber are you loading?
What grain XTP bullet also?
Good video !
Hey man do you think the Hornady lock rings will fit a Lee die ?
Most dies are 7/8“ - 14 thread pattern. Including Lee. So yeah they should fit fine
at 3:51 it says need gap for carbide dies. why for carbide?
Because carbide is brittle if you don’t gap it with a card stock or something like that and your shell holder hits it you risk breaking the carbide.
@@atlyvwire thank very much. I need to know as much as I can. new to reloading
@@victorv4340 The only die in there that has carbide in it is the sizing/de-priming die. You can see the carbide insert, the rest of the die is just steel. The others can be seated down to the ram as they are only steel. On my Lee set the carbide is recessed from the steel bottom of the die some so not entirely necessary for the gap either but many loaders still do. My RCBS set the carbide insert is closer to flush with the steel bottom of the die so I do use the paper/cardboard spacer when setting up as an insurance measure.
I hate the lock rings that rcbs includes too
"....shell holder that comes with the kit"? When did RCBS start adding free shell holders to their non-premium die sets? I've used them for thirty years, and every shell holder I ever had came at a separate cost.
450 Bushmaster
At about 3min in you call the Press a Die Twice 😖
I know!!! 😳🤣
Bloke superchill buckaroo