For a permanate seal (that can still be removed Anchor makes a sealant coated heat shrink, I use 3/4" (that shrinks down 3 times smaller aprox 1/4") . I have removed this after 20+ years of exposure to the sun and salt water on a sailboat's mast and the connectors still looked new.
For a permanent installation, I use a silicone dielectric grease being careful to keep it out of the connector. I coat the exterior of the conection too. Then I use shrink tubing to cover the connector to finish it. It makes a neat looking connection. It's worked great for me for 30 years. For a temporary install, I use rubber tape to water proof the connection. I'm sold on the 3M products.
Great video! May I humbly suggest that when ending the last layer of tape, that you cut it rather than pull/stretch it to separate it from the roll. Cutting helps prevent "flagging", which tends to then self unravel. Home depot sells "Commercial Electric" brand #PLT-122 stretchy tape and Scotch Super 33. 33 is also UV safe. Cheers!
This stuff is awesome. I use another brand like this that is wider and it is UV protected. It also comes in many colors. I also use it to seal my antenna sections.
I did this exactly as shown. I knew better. I learned many years ago that any enclosed space that isn't airtight, and is thermal cycled, will pump full of water. Yes, it's a watertight seal - that keeps the water in. It's not airtight, therefore, water comes in. My SWR went nuts, because my connection filled with water and froze, breaking the backshell off the PL-259. Cooling pulls air in, water condenses. Warming pushes air out, and the cycle repeats until the space is full of water.
)Uh, I thought "dielectric grease" was aan electrical conductor. I put in on my car battery posts, and then discovered my batteries would not ever charge. I am shocked to see anyone suggesting something that is about the same as PETROLEUM JELLY. If anyting would ever run or flow, and coat your wires, it is Dielectric Grease. Huh-Uh. Not me Baby. All of my protective coatings are going on the outside of the COAX. However, I did buy all the other DX Engineering Tape and TenFlex. Your COAX Cable Stripper is so easy to use I am really happy. Your Cable Cutter is the best! etc. Good stuff.
Odd since dielectric is the insulator in coax. The first I saw it was way back doing spark plug wires - it was specified for the high voltage system to prevent flash over. A popular antenna maker has recently been suggesting petroleum jelly for the same thing - sealing the threads. Like others, I wondered about glue lined heat shrink.
Ive wondered but dielectric grease is non-conductive it is interrupting my shield connection, and some guys think it ok to put on center pin also. I prefer a spray of deoxit before connecting and taping. KC2-AGT John
When I was a teenager in highschool I cut my hand with a utility knife slicing cable just as you were there6:21(still have a scar), instead of moving the knife along the cable hold the knife and cable in one hand such that the index finger lifts the cable against the knife, then pull the cable through with the other hand you will have greater control and can't cut yourself this way.
Don't ever use that cheap, crappy Harbor Freight electrical tape (someone in comments say they recommend it for a temp connection). That shlitz will soon unfold and leave a very sticky residue. I tried their tape once (being on the cheap), regretted it and threw the rest of the rolls away. It doesn't even wrap that well. I was a Field Wireman in the Marines back in the 80's (don't remember brand of the tape if it had a brand, but very similar to the 3M 33+). We learned to water-proof a connection was to start in middle, wrap to [right or left], back to opposite side, then end in the middle and use a knife (or scissors) to cut, don't tear or the tape will unfold. I recently retired (34 years) as a telecomm engineer and was a tech before that for many years. The RF connectors, it was best to start with the 3M tape (I wrapped as taught in Marines), cover with the water-proofing material, then finish with the 3M tape. These methods held up well to the SoCal UVs and weather.
Bad idea, the threads provide the ground so RF doesn't leak out. If the plumbers tape causes the connection to be broken, you'll leak RF and could let in stray RF.
If you put electrical tape first, over time it will leave glue residue and the surface will be sticky. It's cleanable with IPA, but that's a painful job to do for a not really effective result, imho.
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For a permanate seal (that can still be removed Anchor makes a sealant coated heat shrink, I use 3/4" (that shrinks down 3 times smaller aprox 1/4") . I have removed this after 20+ years of exposure to the sun and salt water on a sailboat's mast and the connectors still looked new.
Appreciate the video, and loved the quick shipping from your store with the sealing kit - it arrived days before my coax and new antenna did!
For a permanent installation, I use a silicone dielectric grease being careful to keep it out of the connector. I coat the exterior of the conection too. Then I use shrink tubing to cover the connector to finish it. It makes a neat looking connection. It's worked great for me
for 30 years. For a temporary install, I use rubber tape to water proof the connection. I'm sold on the 3M products.
Lordy.. you don't know how many times I wanted to scream "it amalgamating tape" throughout this video. 🤷🏼♂️
Great video! May I humbly suggest that when ending the last layer of tape, that you cut it rather than pull/stretch it to separate it from the roll. Cutting helps prevent "flagging", which tends to then self unravel. Home depot sells "Commercial Electric" brand #PLT-122 stretchy tape and Scotch Super 33. 33 is also UV safe. Cheers!
appreciate the suggestion
Hi Rod and Mark, nice seeing you on RUclips!! This is a GREAT video and nice to see DX engineering has the 2 tapes in 1 kit!!
In the air force we called that F4 tape. That's what kept f4 phantoms flying lol
This stuff is awesome.
I use another brand like this that is wider and it is UV protected. It also comes in many colors. I also use it to seal my antenna sections.
I did this exactly as shown. I knew better. I learned many years ago that any enclosed space that isn't airtight, and is thermal cycled, will pump full of water. Yes, it's a watertight seal - that keeps the water in. It's not airtight, therefore, water comes in. My SWR went nuts, because my connection filled with water and froze, breaking the backshell off the PL-259. Cooling pulls air in, water condenses. Warming pushes air out, and the cycle repeats until the space is full of water.
)Uh, I thought "dielectric grease" was aan electrical conductor. I put in on my car battery posts, and then discovered my batteries would not ever charge. I am shocked to see anyone suggesting something that is about the same as PETROLEUM JELLY. If anyting would ever run or flow, and coat your wires, it is Dielectric Grease. Huh-Uh. Not me Baby. All of my protective coatings are going on the outside of the COAX. However, I did buy all the other DX Engineering Tape and TenFlex. Your COAX Cable Stripper is so easy to use I am really happy. Your Cable Cutter is the best! etc. Good stuff.
Odd since dielectric is the insulator in coax. The first I saw it was way back doing spark plug wires - it was specified for the high voltage system to prevent flash over.
A popular antenna maker has recently been suggesting petroleum jelly for the same thing - sealing the threads.
Like others, I wondered about glue lined heat shrink.
Ive wondered but dielectric grease is non-conductive it is interrupting my shield connection, and some guys think it ok to put on center pin also. I prefer a spray of deoxit before connecting and taping. KC2-AGT John
How would you weather seal a 90 degree connector in close proximity, about an inch, from the an overhang?
would this be good underground?
What about liquid electric tape? Any good for waterproofing?
Thank you, very helpful!
Hi,
Can the Di-electric grease be used on the center conductor, besides the grounding threads?
Best,
William
On permanent sealing, id used double wall epoxy heat shrink which will encapsulate the connectors and coax and will be weatherproof.
When I was a teenager in highschool I cut my hand with a utility knife slicing cable just as you were there6:21(still have a scar), instead of moving the knife along the cable hold the knife and cable in one hand such that the index finger lifts the cable against the knife, then pull the cable through with the other hand you will have greater control and can't cut yourself this way.
Cut towards your buddy, not your body!
Cambric tape applied to the connection first will make it easy to remove, or super 33 sticky side out will work as well.
Hi. Can we use Permatex 22064? Thanks in advance!
Wouldn't that Barrel be considered some kind of coupling?
Theres a way or wrapping so that water runs over the tape edges and not under.
"Self Annealing".... also Scotch 2228, which is also UV resistant on its own and self annealing/sealing
dielectric grease?
Would this work to seal ferrite snap beads from the elements?
Hey guy's I know this is a old post but what do you think of heat shrink over it
Don't ever use that cheap, crappy Harbor Freight electrical tape (someone in comments say they recommend it for a temp connection). That shlitz will soon unfold and leave a very sticky residue. I tried their tape once (being on the cheap), regretted it and threw the rest of the rolls away. It doesn't even wrap that well.
I was a Field Wireman in the Marines back in the 80's (don't remember brand of the tape if it had a brand, but very similar to the 3M 33+). We learned to water-proof a connection was to start in middle, wrap to [right or left], back to opposite side, then end in the middle and use a knife (or scissors) to cut, don't tear or the tape will unfold.
I recently retired (34 years) as a telecomm engineer and was a tech before that for many years. The RF connectors, it was best to start with the 3M tape (I wrapped as taught in Marines), cover with the water-proofing material, then finish with the 3M tape. These methods held up well to the SoCal UVs and weather.
What about plumbers tape around the threads?
Bad idea, the threads provide the ground so RF doesn't leak out. If the plumbers tape causes the connection to be broken, you'll leak RF and could let in stray RF.
If you put electrical tape first, over time it will leave glue residue and the surface will be sticky. It's cleanable with IPA, but that's a painful job to do for a not really effective result, imho.
Isn't that barrel connector a SO238?
PL259 I male, SO239 is female, barrel (not through hole) is SO238. I'm not sure about others.
Scotch 130c is UV resistant
I would not use electrical tape it does not last in the heat and not uv safe as some people make you think
No freaking way.