Great video and Thank You for taking the time to explain the proper steps needed for a HVAC system to function and perform well. Im almost 40 years into the HVAC trade and a HVAC contractor and it is so cool that the newer HVAC techs can get so much needed information online/ RUclips to help make them better HVAC techs. Keep up the great work and videos. Cheers
Nice work!! I love all the info and attention to detail. Most people don't realize how much work and knowledge goes into HVAC design and installation. The HVAC company you choose can make all the difference. The brand you choose matters. However, that brand (Mitsubishi, Trane, Carrier, etc.) only makes the "engine" your HVAC contractor builds the rest of the "car."
Ok, I got distracted.....and please don't be offended........3 good looking fellows crawling around feelin' sexy, and those camera shots oh my! ((O: But, great work there for sure and your 'OCD' really comes into play. I had a very nice crew from a pro HVAC business here (August 2021) in the NE install a new Mitsubishi 30K BTU split system in my home (3 air handlers) Poor guys were out there in the hot sun, then under my 28' deck putting the line set in while on their knees anchoring low into the foundation! I offered water and shade, but they were just happy working along for 1.5 days during the install and were very kind to put up with my photo documentation! I decided to call them moments ago to let them know that I was able to STILL get warm air from a NON 'hyper heat' outdoor unit down to 0.3 degrees F. and keep the home at 65 degrees! They were very pleased to hear. However, the temp ran BELOW 0 last Saturday night (-2) and the system would run for only about 2 minutes and then stop. It got down to 52 degrees in the home during the overnight ! Tomorrow (1-21-22) they are going to get back to me on the mechanics of changing out to the hyper heat outdoor box. Thanks again for reading, AND your video presentation.
21:20 FYI precipitation percentage generally reflects both area and confidence. I.e. being 80% sure that rain will fall on 50% of the physical area of the forecast would be a "40% chance of rain" because 0.8*0.5=0.4.
I got a quote with a 9K BTU hyper heat for a 900 sq ft open space with 8 ft ceiling and relatively good insulation and 4 windows and I initially don't believe that could heat the space during winter of new england. But after looking at the engineering data does tell me it's output is 18K BTU at 47F and 14K BTU at 17F, 11.6K BTU at 5F, I am quite convinced. But just in case, still ask contractor to use 12K BTU hyper heat instead.
Good digging, Pan- but that conservative ‘extra padding’ you added at the end is already built into Manual J. 9k is oversized for my 800 sq ft studio with 13 ft ceilings plus a 4’ crawlspace, fyi.
@@HomePerformance I also have a space with 600 sq ft studio with 14 ft ceiling without crawlspace (concrete floor on the ground), 2 windows, 1 french door and 3 walls from external walls, it gets 18K BTU single zone Mitsubishi hyper heat. So the calculation seems quite different here. I assume your space has no window and very very good insulation?
@@HomePerformance My house is from 95 original Anderson wood double panel window, 2x6 structure. So not that confident its isolation is as good as yours.
Thanks, me too. But it IS a bit of a PITA, and it tries to fall down like a sock with no elastic on vertical runs with cuts. Lots of zip ties my friend.
@@HomePerformance I use K-Flex 320 Rubber Adhesive, which works well, in case you are planning to insulate some of your pipes get one that is precut but not with glue, peel and stick glue on pipe insulation does not work well. Insulating cold water pipes is more important than hot ones. Keep up great work and videos.
Did Kaleb ever finish cutting that copper tube at the end of the video??? 😉 (I know he was trying to get a really clean cut because he probably couldn’t ream it.)
I was told by my contractor the return duct needs to be place in the ceiling to pull in the warm air from the house and the supply ducts at the floor. It appears your return is at the floor level. How well is that functioning in the warm summer days?
Do you have any idea how much of friction the ducts costs？ pls share. I am in China, we mainly use mini splits for cooling and heating, some bigger home owner may use VRV systems, however I only see ducts for the refrigerant lines, both system directly blow air to the room, no need for the air to travel all the way. Do you have any idea why we use totally different system? The pros and cons for both system.
Your expectations for humidity and temperature seem to be very different from Americans, Lynn. And you’re used to using ‘decentralized’ systems, so homeowners/renters probably understand better how many and what type of standalone extra equipment to have hanging around. Are you in the building industry?
Not even for a second, Steve- those can be bad for system performance if you mess with them- back pressure will build up. Set it and forget it is the best way.
Here’s a nerdy question, what are doing with your ac/ Dehum condensate? I’m assuming you’re not dumping it directly outside since that drain line would be a potential air leakage pathway.. I’m in furnace country so often our condensate traps dry out in the winter, and then get re primed by ac condensate in the summer, I don’t know if this occurs with heat pumps or not... this is where I’m curious.
Any suggestions to locate a firm to build an energy model for a residential project still in design in Alabama? I have an architectural sketchup model and have been playing around with OpenStudio, but I also haven't been able to find any good training videos related to residential construction.
Hi Brian- I would be happy to help you, I build and tune energy models for clients nationwide. Get in touch via: buildingperformanceworkshop.com/new-homes
Where were you able to buy that lineset? I was able to source a 1/4"Lx 3/8"S x 1/2" insulation streamline lineset but couldn't find anything with a thicker insulation unfortunately.
Tim I really love the gravel idea as a builder - it reduces my reliance on concrete products and processes - also easily and non destructively moved if the equipment changes down the line. Nice!
Yes, ozone is basically the grandmother of all indoor chemistry- create a little bit of it and you spawn all kinds of weird reactions that make it almost impossible to predictably mitigate.
@@HomePerformance i still don't understand. It is my understanding that hospitals use some sort of UV light thing. Maby a video for us not so much in the know.
I’ll do one for you. Start here: Ozone: Original Villain of Indoor Chemistry ruclips.net/video/iDzdlt9ufWk/видео.html Yes, hospitals are more concerned with disinfection than with chemical reactions than with chemical reactions, and yes, hospitals are not homes- very different characteristics and parameters.
correct me if i'm wrong by UV lights don't make ozone. ionizers do. the problem with UV is the bulbs are way way to small for the massive amount of airflow. not to mention a health hazard if someone opens the unit not knowing there is one inside.
I used to sell hvac eq ... Crazy but it seemed only 20% of the techs really understood all the things you presented.. The other 80 were either repair or installation guys. They likely could run a calculation when they got out of school but these are the same folks who look at the square footage.. say ok need this many BTU. then add 20% to make sure they have enough capacity. The thought of running smaller seemed to never be in their lexicon.
@@HomePerformance I think that there is actually not a lot of reason for most techs to keep up on running a j calc. It is a lot of effort and as you know doing them is only an estimate. I was watching the install of a mitsubishi vfr. 3.5 tons. Granted it is out in the desert but The house is an ICF build. Talk about major thermal fly wheel effect. That place likely could have gotten by with 2 tons and that might have been serious overkill. The rule of thumb is long lasting. This many cubic feet of space = this many btu period. FYI his place looks to be perhaps half the size of your build. Looked to me that he has a lot less window sq footage so the heat gain is not going to be super dramatic. Still with variable refrigerant flow and 4 zones I would be amazed that his normal needs are even a ton.
I have that issue here. I did an online calc for my office heatpump. Could not buy one small enough. Heat pump guy was going to get the smallest we could get. But he got the next size up. So it gets to temp in half the time the lounge one does and you watch the humidity climb back up 😭
@@stevepailet8258 they do not make one for my market here, at least in the main brands. Corbett has a small mitsi for the tiny lab, but thats not available here. the smallest mitsi i think is two sizes up. the smallest i could find was one size above. rather annoying because a lot of houses here have small bedrooms and ducted hvac is non-existent.
You totally skipped over the electrical installation of the outdoor heat pump😢 You didn't talk About the disconnects or the circuit breaker size or the wire size etc.
... I installed my Mitsubishi ductless in my house and had no issues with my hole placement??????? I don't understand and I wouldn't stand for the way that ended up!
@@HomePerformance residential units are now are R32. most manufactures i can buy here seams to have swapped over in the last few years. my older one is r410 and the two newer ones are R32.
But sloppy till you cover it as well and why they didn’t come stray out instead of making a bend inside the home sorry it’s not a problem as far as performed but this guys are the best of the south
Didn’t want to bury the compression fittings in the wall, Leo. And as explained, I wanted to hit at least one stud for support, and the lineset lined up perfectly with the next stud. Don’t blame these guys for my self-build quirks.
@@HomePerformance got it . Hey awesome channel by the way I been learning a lot!! company i work for in Atlanta is base on comfort science so I mention ur channel a lot we are all fans !!! Keep up the good work
Hey all, it’s real life- we tried masking as best we could, but you still forget when you’re focused on something major. Hate on us if you must, but we all take COVID seriously, and happy ending: none of us got it.
@@HomePerformance No hate here Corbett. Just wondering what you're thinking was on it. Perhaps you all got tested. But glad you made it through virus free so you can make more interesting content!
Great video and Thank You for taking the time to explain the proper steps needed for a HVAC system to function and perform well. Im almost 40 years into the HVAC trade and a HVAC contractor and it is so cool that the newer HVAC techs can get so much needed information online/ RUclips to help make them better HVAC techs. Keep up the great work and videos. Cheers
Thanks coolmandude1000, for the comment and for your name
Nice work!! I love all the info and attention to detail. Most people don't realize how much work and knowledge goes into HVAC design and installation. The HVAC company you choose can make all the difference. The brand you choose matters. However, that brand (Mitsubishi, Trane, Carrier, etc.) only makes the "engine" your HVAC contractor builds the rest of the "car."
Hell yes my man
Your passion comes through so much. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for appreciating buddy!
Ok, I got distracted.....and please don't be offended........3 good looking fellows crawling around feelin' sexy, and those camera shots oh my! ((O:
But, great work there for sure and your 'OCD' really comes into play. I had a very nice crew from a pro HVAC business here (August 2021) in the NE install a new Mitsubishi 30K BTU split system in my home (3 air handlers) Poor guys were out there in the hot sun, then under my 28' deck putting the line set in while on their knees anchoring low into the foundation!
I offered water and shade, but they were just happy working along for 1.5 days during the install and were very kind to put up with my photo documentation!
I decided to call them moments ago to let them know that I was able to STILL get warm air from a NON 'hyper heat' outdoor unit down to 0.3 degrees F. and keep the home at 65 degrees! They were very pleased to hear. However, the temp ran BELOW 0 last Saturday night (-2) and the system would run for only about 2 minutes and then stop. It got down to 52 degrees in the home during the overnight !
Tomorrow (1-21-22) they are going to get back to me on the mechanics of changing out to the hyper heat outdoor box. Thanks again for reading, AND your video presentation.
Very cool stats, Gary, thanks for sharing! I bet below zero is definitely in the cards for you again this year, your hyperheat will be worth it.
@@HomePerformance Thanks so much for your kind reply. I will write again and let you know about the H2i conversation with A-Plus' HVAC.
21:20 FYI precipitation percentage generally reflects both area and confidence. I.e. being 80% sure that rain will fall on 50% of the physical area of the forecast would be a "40% chance of rain" because 0.8*0.5=0.4.
Thank you for clarifying, Evan!
Great stuff, good content, very informative!
Thanks Robb!
I got a quote with a 9K BTU hyper heat for a 900 sq ft open space with 8 ft ceiling and relatively good insulation and 4 windows and I initially don't believe that could heat the space during winter of new england. But after looking at the engineering data does tell me it's output is 18K BTU at 47F and 14K BTU at 17F, 11.6K BTU at 5F, I am quite convinced. But just in case, still ask contractor to use 12K BTU hyper heat instead.
Good digging, Pan- but that conservative ‘extra padding’ you added at the end is already built into Manual J. 9k is oversized for my 800 sq ft studio with 13 ft ceilings plus a 4’ crawlspace, fyi.
@@HomePerformance I also have a space with 600 sq ft studio with 14 ft ceiling without crawlspace (concrete floor on the ground), 2 windows, 1 french door and 3 walls from external walls, it gets 18K BTU single zone Mitsubishi hyper heat. So the calculation seems quite different here. I assume your space has no window and very very good insulation?
@@HomePerformance My house is from 95 original Anderson wood double panel window, 2x6 structure. So not that confident its isolation is as good as yours.
You should be able to see everything they put into the Manual J, to check their assumptions.
Good video, like that extra thick insulation on lines.
Thanks, me too. But it IS a bit of a PITA, and it tries to fall down like a sock with no elastic on vertical runs with cuts. Lots of zip ties my friend.
@@HomePerformance There is a glue made especially for that insulation.+ aluminum tape.
Ooh, interesting, I’ll look around.
@@HomePerformance I use K-Flex 320 Rubber Adhesive, which works well, in case you are planning to insulate some of your pipes get one that is precut but not with glue, peel and stick glue on pipe insulation does not work well. Insulating cold water pipes is more important than hot ones. Keep up great work and videos.
Thanks buddy
Did Kaleb ever finish cutting that copper tube at the end of the video??? 😉
(I know he was trying to get a really clean cut because he probably couldn’t ream it.)
He was being so zen. I aspire to spinning a cutter that many times and not my usual 3-cranks, 3-spins and break the thing in half technique.
I wondered this, too lol. Great video!
I was told by my contractor the return duct needs to be place in the ceiling to pull in the warm air from the house and the supply ducts at the floor. It appears your return is at the floor level. How well is that functioning in the warm summer days?
It really doesn’t matter if you keep the air mixed (like with ceiling fans on low speed upward)
Do you have any idea how much of friction the ducts costs？ pls share. I am in China, we mainly use mini splits for cooling and heating, some bigger home owner may use VRV systems, however I only see ducts for the refrigerant lines, both system directly blow air to the room, no need for the air to travel all the way. Do you have any idea why we use totally different system? The pros and cons for both system.
Your expectations for humidity and temperature seem to be very different from Americans, Lynn. And you’re used to using ‘decentralized’ systems, so homeowners/renters probably understand better how many and what type of standalone extra equipment to have hanging around. Are you in the building industry?
Rather than putting dampers in the ductwork did you consider smart vents like Flair or Keen?
Not even for a second, Steve- those can be bad for system performance if you mess with them- back pressure will build up. Set it and forget it is the best way.
Here’s a nerdy question, what are doing with your ac/ Dehum condensate? I’m assuming you’re not dumping it directly outside since that drain line would be a potential air leakage pathway.. I’m in furnace country so often our condensate traps dry out in the winter, and then get re primed by ac condensate in the summer, I don’t know if this occurs with heat pumps or not... this is where I’m curious.
Great question Paul! I’ll show you all about it very soon.
nice video, pleasant to watch
Thanks very much, Rodney
Any suggestions to locate a firm to build an energy model for a residential project still in design in Alabama? I have an architectural sketchup model and have been playing around with OpenStudio, but I also haven't been able to find any good training videos related to residential construction.
Hi Brian- I would be happy to help you, I build and tune energy models for clients nationwide. Get in touch via: buildingperformanceworkshop.com/new-homes
Where were you able to buy that lineset? I was able to source a 1/4"Lx 3/8"S x 1/2" insulation streamline lineset but couldn't find anything with a thicker insulation unfortunately.
If you get the SKU off Mueller-Streamline, any supply house can special order it
@@HomePerformance Thanks!
Neil got the gravel bed idea from Howard Mechanical out of D.C. Gotta give Alex and his crew their props!
Tim I really love the gravel idea as a builder - it reduces my reliance on concrete products and processes - also easily and non destructively moved if the equipment changes down the line. Nice!
Always interested in giving props where props are due
Quick question. In one of your past videos you stated that you didn't like UV light sterilization used with HVAC. Can you please explain.
It can produce dangerous amounts of ozone from what I understand.
Yes, ozone is basically the grandmother of all indoor chemistry- create a little bit of it and you spawn all kinds of weird reactions that make it almost impossible to predictably mitigate.
@@HomePerformance i still don't understand. It is my understanding that hospitals use some sort of UV light thing. Maby a video for us not so much in the know.
I’ll do one for you. Start here:
Ozone: Original Villain of Indoor Chemistry
ruclips.net/video/iDzdlt9ufWk/видео.html
Yes, hospitals are more concerned with disinfection than with chemical reactions than with chemical reactions, and yes, hospitals are not homes- very different characteristics and parameters.
correct me if i'm wrong by UV lights don't make ozone. ionizers do.
the problem with UV is the bulbs are way way to small for the massive amount of airflow. not to mention a health hazard if someone opens the unit not knowing there is one inside.
Good video, fyi background music at the end was a little loud.
Sorry bud
I used to sell hvac eq ... Crazy but it seemed only 20% of the techs really understood all the things you presented.. The other 80 were either repair or installation guys. They likely could run a calculation when they got out of school but these are the same folks who look at the square footage.. say ok need this many BTU. then add 20% to make sure they have enough capacity. The thought of running smaller seemed to never be in their lexicon.
Right on, Steve- we all have a lot of work to do
@@HomePerformance I think that there is actually not a lot of reason for most techs to keep up on running a j calc. It is a lot of effort and as you know doing them is only an estimate. I was watching the install of a mitsubishi vfr. 3.5 tons. Granted it is out in the desert but The house is an ICF build. Talk about major thermal fly wheel effect. That place likely could have gotten by with 2 tons and that might have been serious overkill. The rule of thumb is long lasting. This many cubic feet of space = this many btu period. FYI his place looks to be perhaps half the size of your build. Looked to me that he has a lot less window sq footage so the heat gain is not going to be super dramatic. Still with variable refrigerant flow and 4 zones I would be amazed that his normal needs are even a ton.
I have that issue here. I did an online calc for my office heatpump. Could not buy one small enough. Heat pump guy was going to get the smallest we could get. But he got the next size up. So it gets to temp in half the time the lounge one does and you watch the humidity climb back up 😭
@@tweake7175 One really has to look hard to find tiny equipment
@@stevepailet8258 they do not make one for my market here, at least in the main brands. Corbett has a small mitsi for the tiny lab, but thats not available here. the smallest mitsi i think is two sizes up. the smallest i could find was one size above. rather annoying because a lot of houses here have small bedrooms and ducted hvac is non-existent.
Not hating but those line sets look kind of vulnerable. Are you planning on adding any supports or line hide?
Yes, cladding over them
@@HomePerformance good call.
We do 3/4" as our minimum:)
Nice, Louisiana
@@HomePerformance lol no, it's just something I started doing a few years ago. It's amazing how much hackery happens around here 😪
Oh, I get it- I was just calling you ‘Louisiana’ because you should be their king
You totally skipped over the electrical installation of the outdoor heat pump😢
You didn't talk About the disconnects or the circuit breaker size or the wire size etc.
... I installed my Mitsubishi ductless in my house and had no issues with my hole placement??????? I don't understand and I wouldn't stand for the way that ended up!
You probably didn’t worry about fastening into a stud, just anchored into drywall. Or your house is not framed 16” oc.
Interesting that its r410. Thats pretty much phased out here.
Interesting, Tweak! What are you on, CO2?
@@HomePerformance residential units are now are R32. most manufactures i can buy here seams to have swapped over in the last few years.
my older one is r410 and the two newer ones are R32.
Have not heard of that one, interesting
@@HomePerformance the old good USA is always behind of the entire world especially in construction industry
I believe it
Exposed refrigerant line super sloppy.
Only exposed til you cover it bro
But sloppy till you cover it as well and why they didn’t come stray out instead of making a bend inside the home sorry it’s not a problem as far as performed but this guys are the best of the south
Didn’t want to bury the compression fittings in the wall, Leo. And as explained, I wanted to hit at least one stud for support, and the lineset lined up perfectly with the next stud. Don’t blame these guys for my self-build quirks.
@@HomePerformance got it . Hey awesome channel by the way I been learning a lot!! company i work for in Atlanta is base on comfort science so I mention ur channel a lot we are all fans !!! Keep up the good work
Rock on Leo! Thanks man!
Bummer about that receptacle location.
Indeed. Happy that nobody will ever see this side of the house. I’ll clad it in metal, tho.
Why did everyone decide masks weren't needed halfway through the video?
Its video editing, Time frame from installation to this video was both before and after Corona making landfall.
@@dc1bamf ok, but that doesn't explain what happening at 9:48.
Hey all, it’s real life- we tried masking as best we could, but you still forget when you’re focused on something major. Hate on us if you must, but we all take COVID seriously, and happy ending: none of us got it.
@@HomePerformance No hate here Corbett. Just wondering what you're thinking was on it. Perhaps you all got tested. But glad you made it through virus free so you can make more interesting content!
Yeah, it’d just hard to remember masking when you’re doing ten things at once