WOW, Too cool! This video was so helpful. My mom's clock quit working - she's been gone now for 6 years, the clock was probably 70 years old. I took it apart and saw the wires burned at the coil. With just a little history myself with something like this, I went to RUclips and found your video. I made the attempt to repair it myself and I was SUCCESSFUL! So proud of myself and thankful to you and your video. It took me 12 hours to repair it. Those leads on that coil were so little, thinner than a human hair! I had to soak the coil in hot water to get the paper and glue it to come apart. Afraid to break a wire, I was very cautious to care for the leads. I was fortunate that the front lead was the one that was broken. Because the back lead was short I ended up tying a heavier gauge wire extension to that lead and then join the wires with solder. Once that was done I used clear epoxy to glue it down to the coil to protect it from breaking again. After that I checked for continuity and then connected the power cord. SUCCESS! Thanks again - so very helpful.
I am so happy to hear of your success. It is one of the harder repairs to make. I would have been nervous soaking it in water, water and electricity don’t mix very well. If you can send a photo of the front and back, I might be able to give you more information on your clock.
@@mherzog7 as long as the coil is then completely dry it wont hurt. I use a toaster oven at about 120 Fahrenheit for a couple hours to help dry. Dont go too hot. Just hot enough it is uncomfortable to touch but not hot enough that you will burn yourself.
Great video, I have a Hammond wall clock. I can start it will run for a few days but stop again. I was just looking for Hammond clock information and really liked your video! Brian Desert Edge CA.
Odds are it needs to be taken apart for a good cleaning. If you try, feel free to ask me any questions that come up. Can you send a pic of front and back?
Got out an old Westclox Logan alarm clock. Tore it down to clean it and eventually broke the two coil wires. With this video I think I'll be able to salvage it! thanks!
It is really quite difficult. Tin the ends, and try to solder them when touching, so they stick. You almost need a third hand. Then tape them down so moving the power cord will not tug on it.
Coil wire is typically coated with something to insulate, like varnish or shellac or similar. You may need to scrape the wire with a sharp blade, x-acto or razor, to expose the copper and get a reading on your meter. You likely burned through this coating when you soldered.
That makes sense. But the coil was broken as I was getting no reading from the plug. Once I soldered to a new power cord the circuit was re-established.
I just did this to a sessions clock motor. I used kapton tape in addition to the electrical tape. Those wires are so thin it is very hard to do this without breaking them. Also if the coul was toast, you could always buy a roll of the same awg magnet wire and unwind the coils and count the turns (hahaha) there are a lot of turns! And rewind it with the same number of turns. You will now have a new coil. There are some good rewinding videos out there that show electric motors in general. Just adapt that to the motor you have.
Thanks for posting this. I have restored hundreds of Hammonds. I haven’t put a lot of effort into Bichronous movements but everything else. I usually service, working coils as a part of the repair but have always wanted to learn this piece. Thank you. I’ll see if I can master it before moving onto the Bichronous movement. Lol. Again, much appreciated. Denny Griggs. Williamsburg, Va.
Great vid, thanks! I have a small coil from a music box where I need to do this procedure. Harder to get the coil out, but doable. You have given me hope at least. But if I can't get continuity then one would have to re-wrap the coil. I get very little info on that process other than it's "doable".
@@mherzog7 I see little homemade crank rewinders demonstrated on RUclips. I can make one easily enough....using a magnet and electronic counter, one can come up with the number of wraps as you unwind. Then similarily, you rewind the same number of wraps of the new wire. I'm not sure I want to go through all this, however for one coil. This is a different coil than the Hammond coil you worked with. I have a cardboard coil spool with just wraps of visible wires....no separated layers.
Plastic electrical tape makes me feel a bit uneasy with regard to long term exposure to heat but if it works, ok. I would have used Kapton tape. Kapton has high dielectric strength and high temperature tolerance.
Many thanks for the reply. If you send me the general dimensions of the coil form - length, width and square hole dimensions for the plates in the center, I can design a 3d print file and you can usually get a coil form printed at your local library (free in my area). This may be a way to add life to your other clocks with new coils. I believe I saw the resistance of the coil as ~600 ohms in your video. I maybe able to calculate the number of turns (at least in the ballpark)
Hi! Great video! Has anyone tried to 3D print a form and wind a new coil. It seems to be pretty straight forward to print the form - does anyone know the number of turns for the coil? Assume it's 42 Gauge as someone mentioned below. Is this correct? - thanks for the education!
WOW, Too cool! This video was so helpful. My mom's clock quit working - she's been gone now for 6 years, the clock was probably 70 years old. I took it apart and saw the wires burned at the coil. With just a little history myself with something like this, I went to RUclips and found your video. I made the attempt to repair it myself and I was SUCCESSFUL! So proud of myself and thankful to you and your video. It took me 12 hours to repair it. Those leads on that coil were so little, thinner than a human hair! I had to soak the coil in hot water to get the paper and glue it to come apart. Afraid to break a wire, I was very cautious to care for the leads. I was fortunate that the front lead was the one that was broken. Because the back lead was short I ended up tying a heavier gauge wire extension to that lead and then join the wires with solder. Once that was done I used clear epoxy to glue it down to the coil to protect it from breaking again. After that I checked for continuity and then connected the power cord. SUCCESS! Thanks again - so very helpful.
I am so happy to hear of your success. It is one of the harder repairs to make. I would have been nervous soaking it in water, water and electricity don’t mix very well. If you can send a photo of the front and back, I might be able to give you more information on your clock.
@@mherzog7 as long as the coil is then completely dry it wont hurt. I use a toaster oven at about 120 Fahrenheit for a couple hours to help dry. Dont go too hot. Just hot enough it is uncomfortable to touch but not hot enough that you will burn yourself.
I am very happy I found your video! Thanks!
I am happy it helped you. You’re welcome!
THANK YOU!! Your video gave me the courage to do this aaaaaaannnnddd it works!!!!
You are welcome! Very happy it worked out for you.
Great video, I have a Hammond wall clock. I can start it will run for a few days but stop again. I was just looking for Hammond clock information and really liked your video!
Brian Desert Edge CA.
Odds are it needs to be taken apart for a good cleaning. If you try, feel free to ask me any questions that come up. Can you send a pic of front and back?
Got out an old Westclox Logan alarm clock. Tore it down to clean it and eventually broke the two coil wires. With this video I think I'll be able to salvage it! thanks!
Good luck!
Got it! Biggest issue for me is how to solder small wires. And then get it back in the case without the electric cord getting in the way.
It is really quite difficult. Tin the ends, and try to solder them when touching, so they stick. You almost need a third hand. Then tape them down so moving the power cord will not tug on it.
Coil wire is typically coated with something to insulate, like varnish or shellac or similar. You may need to scrape the wire with a sharp blade, x-acto or razor, to expose the copper and get a reading on your meter. You likely burned through this coating when you soldered.
That makes sense. But the coil was broken as I was getting no reading from the plug. Once I soldered to a new power cord the circuit was re-established.
Craig’s book is great.
Yes it is.
I just did this to a sessions clock motor. I used kapton tape in addition to the electrical tape. Those wires are so thin it is very hard to do this without breaking them.
Also if the coul was toast, you could always buy a roll of the same awg magnet wire and unwind the coils and count the turns (hahaha) there are a lot of turns! And rewind it with the same number of turns. You will now have a new coil. There are some good rewinding videos out there that show electric motors in general. Just adapt that to the motor you have.
Thanks for posting this. I have restored hundreds of Hammonds. I haven’t put a lot of effort into Bichronous movements but everything else. I usually service, working coils as a part of the repair but have always wanted to learn this piece. Thank you. I’ll see if I can master it before moving onto the Bichronous movement. Lol. Again, much appreciated. Denny Griggs. Williamsburg, Va.
Thanks. I’ve repaired one bichronous clock, for me it’s one and done. Very complex. Do you restore to sell or for the fun of it?
Heeeps of help dude, Thank you so much!
Outstanding job.
Thank you!
very interesting video Thanks
Thanks, glad you like it
Great vid, thanks! I have a small coil from a music box where I need to do this procedure. Harder to get the coil out, but doable. You have given me hope at least. But if I can't get continuity then one would have to re-wrap the coil. I get very little info on that process other than it's "doable".
If by re-wrapping you mean the wire that is wound around the coil, it’s unlikely one can do that.
@@mherzog7 I see little homemade crank rewinders demonstrated on RUclips. I can make one easily enough....using a magnet and electronic counter, one can come up with the number of wraps as you unwind. Then similarily, you rewind the same number of wraps of the new wire. I'm not sure I want to go through all this, however for one coil. This is a different coil than the Hammond coil you worked with. I have a cardboard coil spool with just wraps of visible wires....no separated layers.
Plastic electrical tape makes me feel a bit uneasy with regard to long term exposure to heat but if it works, ok. I would have used Kapton tape. Kapton has high dielectric strength and high temperature tolerance.
Good job, lucky you didn't have to rewind the whole coil.
The coil wire looks precisely like 42 gauge formvar wire like is/was used for single coil guitar pickups (hint hint)
Meaning?
Many thanks for the reply. If you send me the general dimensions of the coil form - length, width and square hole dimensions for the plates in the center, I can design a 3d print file and you can usually get a coil form printed at your local library (free in my area). This may be a way to add life to your other clocks with new coils. I believe I saw the resistance of the coil as ~600 ohms in your video. I maybe able to calculate the number of turns (at least in the ballpark)
Thanks, will look into it next time I need a new coil.
Hi! Great video! Has anyone tried to 3D print a form and wind a new coil. It seems to be pretty straight forward to print the form - does anyone know the number of turns for the coil? Assume it's 42 Gauge as someone mentioned below. Is this correct? - thanks for the education!
Thanks, but I know nothing about 3D printing, or the number of turns for the coil.
What year was that book published?
2011