CNC Semi Holow Body Guitar| Fusion 360 CAM
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2019
- CNC cutting a semi hollow body guitar. with Fusion 360 CAM simulation
/ twocherriesinstruments
www.twocherriesinstruments.com
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Great video as well. I dig the shape and I Love the green you put on it. Its cool.
Thanks a bunch! instagram.com/vanhoutenguitars/ did the finish work, I just did the design and milling for him.
I just found this video! James, you did such an amazing job! Thank you so much for helping make my rough sketch on a piece of paper into a beautiful instrument! Your design work and craftsmanship is second to none!
Thank you, there is nothing better than working out an instrument design like this one. I like to think that together we built a fantastic instrument together.
holy moly...very nice editing! wait...super nice editing!!!!!!!!!!!
can't wait till this is on your patreon site!
Thanks, I'm working on it. Not perfect yet.
Thank you for showing the speeds and feed rates, as somebody who is just starting out in CNC as a hobby it's really useful for getting a "feel" for what I should be aiming for.
I'm planing on providing even more information in upcoming videos, The response has been awesome. Thanks for watching.
@@TwoCherriesIns no problems, I'll be sure to Keep an eye out and "get the bell on" 🤣
@@DeanMakes awesome, thanks
Looks great!
Thanks,
Super video!
Thanks!
Seeing as you're not using a Vacuum Table to hold your workpiece in place. A better solution that I found on another video uses 3" Frog Painters tape. With multiple Strips placed upon the Wasteboard an Subsequently place across the bottom of the workpiece. I spread CA Glue between the various Strips. That way at the end of the machining cycle I only have to remove the Tape from both and Painters Tape doesn't leave any Sticky Residue on either Surface.
I use that method but with regular 1" masking tape. I also use CA accelerateor on one side. I haven't noticed much difference between using the expensive tape and the cheap stuff. I used to use the 2" stuff to but the 1" works the same and I can buy it in bulk for a significant discount. The only issue with this method is that the stock has to be perfectly flat to work well.
Great videos. I’m really enjoying them. I’m interested in learning bout your setup process. I understand the reasons for cutting the body free of the blank for bit engagement but I don’t see how you are accurately lining it up with your work coordinates, particularly on the flips (here and on the Bomber video). Can you talk to that a bit?
I try to make my setups as simple and easy as possible, I’m not doing production runs (usually just a single part) so I want my setups as configurable to new and different shapes as possible. When I’m cutting the rough stock off of the blank with the band saw the profile I cut at .1” deep is set to .25 stock to leave radially. So I don’t have to be extremely accurate at getting the sock back on the bed perfectly as I have a lot of extra stock to work with. You are correct the flip requires as much accuracy as possible. The way I accomplish the flip is based on the center line. Almost all the parts I flip are joined lumber exactly at the center seam, I use this join line along with a center line I have cut with an engraving bit into the center of the spoil board. All I have to do is line up these two center lines as close as possible, I normally cut the profile in the first operation so one access is zeroed form the profile and the second from the center seam. I have measured my accuracy at this flip as good as .01” and that is defiantly good enough for me. This is also the reason I usually do round overs with a hand router its much faster than cutting them on the machine and it alas me to sand out any tool marks with the spinal sander before cutting the round over. This is just my current process, I’m learning things all the time so they are bound to change over time. Thanks for taking the time to ask such a good question.
how did you reference the body back into place , after taking it off to trim with bandsaw? Really enjoy your channel . Excellent content .
I'm cutting 1/2" outside the outline with the bandsaw, so I don't have to be all that accurate, I use the centerline as the reference and indicate from that to set my x an y.
I totally get band-sawing off the excess to save wear and tear on the bit, etc.-great idea-but I still don't understand how you get the body back on the waste-board in the right spot without registration pins.
It sounds like you are not accustomed to relative coordinates and possibly haven't ventured into this milling area no pun intended. I bandsaw the outline with 1/2" extra around the perimeter, so I only have to get it back in the machine on the center access, and this is easy to do with a center line on the spoil board and the part. In absolute coordinates, this is a lot trickier.
I will try to explain this better in my next videos, I get this question a lot, so I'm clearly not explaining it well.
@@TwoCherriesIns Thanks, yeah, I figured that out a few minutes later from another of your videos. I'm an old builder with a new CNC on the way. Terrified. hahaha
Interesting. Your method surely gives a better surface finish than cutting in the plain material. But ... how do you position your workpiece properly after all those steps performed by hand? When I think on the binding channels 1/10 of a bad positioning will kill the workpiece ...?
Simple, I cut the binding channels with a hand router. It's not necessary to do everything with the CNC.
a great project, how long does it take to machine the whole guitar.
The milling operations staked up are probably only three hours; the setup time, assembly, and finish work take much longer.
I’m just being to research what building a guitar on the cnc could look like
Is there a reason you cut the profile first then then pockets? I typically. Do my pockets first
It doesn't matter all that much, as long as it works, it works.
@@TwoCherriesIns cool, your videos, have been giving me lots of confidence and fair shair of information for this endeavor.
It's a long learning curve, but well worth the effort.
How do you index the body when you put it back on the CNC? I’m toying with fully hollow but double flip milling frightens me.
I use the center line of the instrument and a center line on the machine. It gets a bit technical to describe, I've tried a couple of times in videos. The way I do the flip is a lot different than other makers.
In regards to the depth of cut (DOC) and chatter, consider taking a large depth of cut as a 1/2 EM can do full 1" DOC in most woods assuming you are running a 2.2kw spindle or more and caculate your F&S correctly. For chatter always machine a rough profile offset, in your case - about 60 thou climbmilling. Go back with a full DOC Conventional Milling to tolerance.
I have had first hand experience with multi head cnc routers that produce Gibson Guitars, they use the same method as well. Not my idea, it's common practice in the industry. Keep the vids going!
Absolutely on more rigid machines this is possible, while I am running a 2.2 kw spindle my work holding method will not take this kind of force. I'm not doing production work I'm just making one off parts. The key to the kind of cnc work I do is being able to design a setup that will work for a lot of different types of cutting and cut the part correctly the first time. Are my methods conservative, yes but they are also very predictable.
@@TwoCherriesIns
Though production is not a requirement for my above cnc operational routine, I wanted to be clear this method is used in your specific application and I would go further to say in general the less you handle a part and less post processes and operations you use the less likely the chances of a mistake. However I may have missed the point here and I am sure I can find value in your videos and really like your focus.
@@dbtoutfitt7751 This is true there is certainly more opportunity for error with more setups. If I run dust collection and can clear chips I can defiantly run more aggressively the downside is no way to shoot good video with the dust shoe on the machine. I'm certainly not saying this is the only way, it just happens to be the most effective method I have found at this time, and I know it will change over time.
Oh, and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I really appreciate it.
What make/model CNC do you have?
It's the CNC router parts CRP2448 standard machine(the old design). I put together the electronics on my own and save quite a bit. I plan to build a new machine this year.
What CNC machine are you using?
The CNC router parts crp2448, I only purchased the frame kit from them and I put together the electronics myself. It's a very good machine for a very good price if you are willing to do more work on your own.
Two Cherries
Do you have a basic build list for what you built posted somewhere?
I found the CRP4824 4' x 2' CNC Router Kit
Not really, I pieced together all the electronics(steppers, drivers, PC, relays, VFD, spindle, power supplies, and wiring) from eBay. CNC router parts sells electronics kits, but I saved a lot by doing it on my own. If your not experienced or willing to learn a lot It's probably better to get a kit. I believe there are basic kits with G540's and stepper motors on eBay as well.
Your cnc specificaion ??
This is a CNC Router Parts CRP2448 standard machine frame.
Wood is to thick needs to be lighter. And it can.
Ah, not sure how you came to that conclusion, you should read the comment below.