Replaced the bearings on my GWL15 this weekend, found the bearings kit on ebay out of Australia for about $60 shipped to the US vs online part stores wanted about $280 for the kit. Simply tilting the machine back at an angle allowed me to knock out the old bearings and pop in the new ones without needing to remove the entire tub from the cabinet. Took about a half hour and the machine works great again. I've got over 15 years on this machine and it just keeps running. Old bearings were starting to rust from water beginning to leak through the seal. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you so much. My Fisher Paykel washer is 20 years and counting. I think the bearings are starting to go. Hopeful I can find someone versed in repairing my washer, or maybe begging one of my brothers to help muscle through.
Great video. Easy to follow and I'll do mine tonight or tomorrow. From your accent I thought you might be in USA, possibly a southern region but but you are in New Zealand! Rad as man.
I used to live in South Carolina before New Zealand, and that was about seven years ago. My accent isn't as noticeable now, but I do get comments for it occasionally. All the best with your washer!
Great video. I've seen a piece of brooker rod with washers slightly smaller in diameter than the bearings and a nut above each bearing, sometimes you may need additional washers depending on the inside diameter of the washers so the nuts are secured. Then only a matter of lining up the bearings in the housing and tightening both nuts progressively until the top and bottoms are seated correctly. A decent pin punch or brass drift is also great for knocking out the old seal and bearings
Excellent video. Wondered about the lift of the tub which was described as difficult then tipped the machine over (onto some carpet) and pulled the tub out from under. Easier! Getting the bearings into place was the hardest part. Thanks!
Great video I tried this repair myself about 4 years ago now on a Fisher & Paykel Kelvinator GW608K Washing Machine made in December 1996. Unfortunately the machine continued to be difficult after replacing the bearings so in the end I decided to strip it.
I'm glad you liked the video. Too bad about your Kelvinator. It must have been great owning that washer while you still had it. I myself am still waiting to come across an older F&P like that. I found a Gentle Annie agitator at the place where I get my washers from, so they're definitely around here somewhere. I'll just have to keep waiting. Thanks for the comment!
Great video. I did the bearings on my 15 year old Fisher and Paykel smartdrive on the weekend. It's doable however I wouldn't say it's for someone with limited technical skills. It took me quite a few hours to do. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the old shaft back through once I put in the new bearings. It took quite a lot of beating with a rubber mallet and piece of work to get it through. I should have tried sanding it. Using Lanox inox on all screws and bolts when you put back also a great idea. Also when I put in the bearings seal it doesn't sit flush with the top of the bowl but rather quite a bit under the lip, that said it seems to run well so not sure if it's meant to be like that or the new bearings are a different size. That said I got it all back together and I can't believe how quiet the machine is now on the spin cycle. Thanks again for the video as just someone showing all the steps and parts gives you the confidence to take it on however just remember it's not a beginner's job.
Changing bearings Isn't an easy job that's for sure, but so far I've had pretty good success with doing them. Sometimes the shaft doesn't slide in as easily, but with a bit of persuasion, you can get it to work
I did the bearings for the third time since i started, it wasn't very often i needed to do them, but the machine i did them on yesterday was a Kelvinator badged Fisher & Paykel GW701K smart drive washing machine made in December 1993 so 29 years old now so far, but basically one i scored recently nearly 2 weeks ago as of tomorrow! 😁
I will see about doing a youtube video of that machine, and along with 3 Intuitives and the Aquasmart, obviously not in one hit, most likely, i'll film them on my iphone!
@@grnappliance7297 yes your absolutely correct, 1991 to 1993, they did the very first smart drive or known as Phase 1 or 00's. They are very very rare to even find, the phase 2's were basically the improvement series as the Phase 1's had slight differences with the motor controller and display and the pump was a different type in the beginning before they went to the Selni pump later on!
Reliable machines. Had mine 15 years and only done a hot water valve and rps sensor needed the contacts cleaning. That machine u did looks like it had a hell of a life. I cant see how it would be viable for someone to pay a technician to do a beating job on one of these even a new one. Do I know what a shop would charge? Even doing it to re sell by the time u buy the bearing kit
Wow man, we have something in common. That was quite a amazing repair. I love fixing washing machines too. I sell washing machines and do repairs on them. I live in Wellington might be quite far away were you are. love your vids. And do you buy, Fix up and sell. cheers
You must've hammered into the bearing. I remember getting my screwdriver stuck in one of them as well, but you've just got to find a way to pry it out of the rubber. I believe I hit my screwdriver on the side with a hammer to get it unstuck. It shouldn't have caused any damage to the actual tub.
If you're referring to the part where you're putting the shaft back in, then yeah. Sometimes they don't slide back into place that easily. Also, If your shaft was shaped over time by the old bearings, that could be causing the tub to wobble ever so slightly during spin causing the noisiness. I'm not sure what could be causing your rotor problems though. Maybe it's just the seal wearing in?
@@grnappliance7297 The problem I experienced w the rotor is that I had a hell of a time getting the windings to center and bottom out on the exposed bearing OD at the bottom. If the plastic recess on the windings doesn't slip over that bottom bearing evenly, the windings are either off center wrt the magnets or it's not perpendicular to the shaft. Either way, the gap between the windings and magnet becomes an interference rub. Had to use a Dremel tool to grind a small bevel in the plastic, lube the bearing OD and slowly and evenly torque the windings down to get it to pop into place.
@@grnappliance7297 - aha! Thank you. I wondered whether that may have been the problem, regarding the outer bearing. It seems like it is aligned, but one side always looks out of alignment. Perhaps, I should knock it gently, because every time I hit one side of the bearing the other side always pops out higher; very deceiving.
Don't touch the serrated edges on the inner bowl because if you are unaware they act like a cheese grater and rip your hands to pieces a safer way is to maybe grab it by the inside of it at the top with both hands on opposite sides so you don't cut your self
So, why don't you just work from under the machine with it on the side? I realise that you don't need to disassemble the machine to that extent. You're only after the bearing and so take the inner bowl off of course and for that you don't have to remove the top with the electronics- you just undo those two screws and pivot back the cover as it's designed to do that, hook it up and take the bowl out, then temporarily place the top back, secure it and lay the machine on it's side to work underneath? ((Yes remove those agitator inner bowl plastic splined parts that are for the floating bowl and it disconnects the locking for the bowl (agitate/ spin actions); for taking the shaft out, but not needed to do so if you're just cleaning the inner bowl, not doing a bearing.)) 😊
Although technically possible, I wouldn't recommend doing it that way. Taking the whole tub out allows more freedom of movement (standing up, laying on side, etc) and makes cleaning easier. Additionally, there's a decreased risk of cutting yourself on the edges of the cabinet. That said, I'll be more than willing to try this method when possible.
Sorry man, you're going far too far to change the bearings. The top by design will hinge back to vertical. Support it so it doesn't go back too far to unclip the outer bowl top cowling. You change the bearings with the most of the machine assembled. This involves only laying the machine on it's side for all the underside and put the machine back on it's feet for the bowl stuff. When you take out the bearings, go around the bearing on the outer ball race, so the housing for them isn't stretched and damaged.
Replaced the bearings on my GWL15 this weekend, found the bearings kit on ebay out of Australia for about $60 shipped to the US vs online part stores wanted about $280 for the kit. Simply tilting the machine back at an angle allowed me to knock out the old bearings and pop in the new ones without needing to remove the entire tub from the cabinet. Took about a half hour and the machine works great again. I've got over 15 years on this machine and it just keeps running. Old bearings were starting to rust from water beginning to leak through the seal. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you dude, you rock!! Extremely clear instructions and very peaceful voice.
Thank you so much. My Fisher Paykel washer is 20 years and counting. I think the bearings are starting to go. Hopeful I can find someone versed in repairing my washer, or maybe begging one of my brothers to help muscle through.
Great video. Easy to follow and I'll do mine tonight or tomorrow. From your accent I thought you might be in USA, possibly a southern region but but you are in New Zealand! Rad as man.
I used to live in South Carolina before New Zealand, and that was about seven years ago. My accent isn't as noticeable now, but I do get comments for it occasionally. All the best with your washer!
@@grnappliance7297 Thanks, I've got a pretty modern one and I had to use a puller bolt to remove the rotor.
Great video. I've seen a piece of brooker rod with washers slightly smaller in diameter than the bearings and a nut above each bearing, sometimes you may need additional washers depending on the inside diameter of the washers so the nuts are secured. Then only a matter of lining up the bearings in the housing and tightening both nuts progressively until the top and bottoms are seated correctly. A decent pin punch or brass drift is also great for knocking out the old seal and bearings
Excellent video. Wondered about the lift of the tub which was described as difficult then tipped the machine over (onto some carpet) and pulled the tub out from under. Easier!
Getting the bearings into place was the hardest part. Thanks!
That's a good idea. I'll give that a try next time.
So satisfying to see those bearings popped out. Great video, cant wait for another one!
I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video I tried this repair myself about 4 years ago now on a Fisher & Paykel Kelvinator GW608K Washing Machine made in December 1996. Unfortunately the machine continued to be difficult after replacing the bearings so in the end I decided to strip it.
I'm glad you liked the video. Too bad about your Kelvinator. It must have been great owning that washer while you still had it. I myself am still waiting to come across an older F&P like that. I found a Gentle Annie agitator at the place where I get my washers from, so they're definitely around here somewhere. I'll just have to keep waiting. Thanks for the comment!
A good ending?
Great video. I did the bearings on my 15 year old Fisher and Paykel smartdrive on the weekend. It's doable however I wouldn't say it's for someone with limited technical skills. It took me quite a few hours to do. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the old shaft back through once I put in the new bearings. It took quite a lot of beating with a rubber mallet and piece of work to get it through. I should have tried sanding it. Using Lanox inox on all screws and bolts when you put back also a great idea. Also when I put in the bearings seal it doesn't sit flush with the top of the bowl but rather quite a bit under the lip, that said it seems to run well so not sure if it's meant to be like that or the new bearings are a different size. That said I got it all back together and I can't believe how quiet the machine is now on the spin cycle. Thanks again for the video as just someone showing all the steps and parts gives you the confidence to take it on however just remember it's not a beginner's job.
Changing bearings Isn't an easy job that's for sure, but so far I've had pretty good success with doing them. Sometimes the shaft doesn't slide in as easily, but with a bit of persuasion, you can get it to work
I wish you were able to get more viewers, because what you've just shown us has saved me a lot of money.
Thanks again
I did the bearings for the third time since i started, it wasn't very often i needed to do them, but the machine i did them on yesterday was a Kelvinator badged Fisher & Paykel GW701K smart drive washing machine made in December 1993 so 29 years old now so far, but basically one i scored recently nearly 2 weeks ago as of tomorrow! 😁
I will see about doing a youtube video of that machine, and along with 3 Intuitives and the Aquasmart, obviously not in one hit, most likely, i'll film them on my iphone!
@@lukekneebone9831 Sounds exciting. At that time, they had only been making the Smart drives for 2 years, so it will be interesting to see what it is.
@@grnappliance7297 yes your absolutely correct, 1991 to 1993, they did the very first smart drive or known as Phase 1 or 00's. They are very very rare to even find, the phase 2's were basically the improvement series as the Phase 1's had slight differences with the motor controller and display and the pump was a different type in the beginning before they went to the Selni pump later on!
Reliable machines. Had mine 15 years and only done a hot water valve and rps sensor needed the contacts cleaning. That machine u did looks like it had a hell of a life. I cant see how it would be viable for someone to pay a technician to do a beating job on one of these even a new one. Do I know what a shop would charge? Even doing it to re sell by the time u buy the bearing kit
Good video. Thanks
Wow man, we have something in common. That was quite a amazing repair. I love fixing washing machines too. I sell washing machines and do repairs on them. I live in Wellington might be quite far away were you are. love your vids. And do you buy, Fix up and sell. cheers
I would like to see more videos with this fisher and paykel washing machine but doing wash loads
I must of missed the bearing - so instead I hammered my screwdriver head into something rubbery. Any idea as to how I can remove my screw driver?
You must've hammered into the bearing. I remember getting my screwdriver stuck in one of them as well, but you've just got to find a way to pry it out of the rubber. I believe I hit my screwdriver on the side with a hammer to get it unstuck. It shouldn't have caused any damage to the actual tub.
If the bottom plastic nut is broken what should we do?
I've never encountered that issue before. Perhaps you could clamp it down with vice grips or something like that.
My shaft did not just drop in. I had to give I a good hit. It’s not as quiet as I expected. The rotor didn’t spin easily when I was done. Hmm
If you're referring to the part where you're putting the shaft back in, then yeah. Sometimes they don't slide back into place that easily. Also, If your shaft was shaped over time by the old bearings, that could be causing the tub to wobble ever so slightly during spin causing the noisiness. I'm not sure what could be causing your rotor problems though. Maybe it's just the seal wearing in?
@@grnappliance7297 The problem I experienced w the rotor is that I had a hell of a time getting the windings to center and bottom out on the exposed bearing OD at the bottom. If the plastic recess on the windings doesn't slip over that bottom bearing evenly, the windings are either off center wrt the magnets or it's not perpendicular to the shaft. Either way, the gap between the windings and magnet becomes an interference rub. Had to use a Dremel tool to grind a small bevel in the plastic, lube the bearing OD and slowly and evenly torque the windings down to get it to pop into place.
Is it necessary to disconnect the mother board?
I disconnect the motherboard in order to remove the top of the machine. The process would otherwise be quite complicated.
@@grnappliance7297 - thank you generously for your video. I finally managed to knock out the top and bottom bearings; what a mission.
Hello - I cannot get the shaft through the other side, so I can put the bolt on. Actually, it is impossible.
@@taratitipene6692 When tapping the bearings back into place, try your best to align them properly so that the shaft can slip through.
@@grnappliance7297 - aha! Thank you. I wondered whether that may have been the problem, regarding the outer bearing. It seems like it is aligned, but one side always looks out of alignment. Perhaps, I should knock it gently, because every time I hit one side of the bearing the other side always pops out higher; very deceiving.
Don't touch the serrated edges on the inner bowl because if you are unaware they act like a cheese grater and rip your hands to pieces a safer way is to maybe grab it by the inside of it at the top with both hands on opposite sides so you don't cut your self
So, why don't you just work from under the machine with it on the side? I realise that you don't need to disassemble the machine to that extent. You're only after the bearing and so take the inner bowl off of course and for that you don't have to remove the top with the electronics- you just undo those two screws and pivot back the cover as it's designed to do that, hook it up and take the bowl out, then temporarily place the top back, secure it and lay the machine on it's side to work underneath?
((Yes remove those agitator inner bowl plastic splined parts that are for the floating bowl and it disconnects the locking for the bowl (agitate/ spin actions); for taking the shaft out, but not needed to do so if you're just cleaning the inner bowl, not doing a bearing.))
😊
Although technically possible, I wouldn't recommend doing it that way. Taking the whole tub out allows more freedom of movement (standing up, laying on side, etc) and makes cleaning easier. Additionally, there's a decreased risk of cutting yourself on the edges of the cabinet. That said, I'll be more than willing to try this method when possible.
This is the way it's done in the real world. No one has half a day to add all these extras steps if you do this for a living.
@@adamhanne8431 To whom are you referring to?
Sorry man, you're going far too far to change the bearings. The top by design will hinge back to vertical. Support it so it doesn't go back too far to unclip the outer bowl top cowling. You change the bearings with the most of the machine assembled. This involves only laying the machine on it's side for all the underside and put the machine back on it's feet for the bowl stuff. When you take out the bearings, go around the bearing on the outer ball race, so the housing for them isn't stretched and damaged.