Thats awesome! I've always wanted to live off the grid. Have a setup like you have to heat the water and also heat the house by hooking some sheet metal to your fireplace with a blower and a couple of filters to keep the smoke out but essentially what it'll do is move the heated air through the ductwork and through the vents in the home.
Very good video. For once its short and precise and explains everything without endless ummming. love the idea of a simple C shaped stainless steel tube in the fire box. Clever guy
Well done on both counts, video and job. It may not look like a factory product filmed in a pro studio, but what the hell is wrong with the 7 who gave a thumbs down.
I've heated domestic water with my wood stove for 25 years. I have two observations: 1. I didn't see a mention of a "tempering" valve. The wood stove can heat pressurized water to over 230 degrees. A tempering valve on the hot water line going out into the house will mix unheated water with the flow coming out of the tank to lessen the chance of scalding. They have a dial on them to set the temperature at which they start to open. 2. The pop off should be plumbed out of the house. I've had tanks pop off. If you've plumbed the tank to avoid mixing and enhance stratification, about half the tank will empty before the incoming water will cool the top of the tank enough to allow the pop off to close. Picture 20 or 30 gallons of scalding hot water flashing to steam in the house and the damage it could cause. There is tremendous energy in water heated to steam. Be sure your system either can't get that hot or can deal with the consequences. B.
Brian Brehmeyer Good advice on plumbing the blow off valve. I have research the tempering valve and have been watching my temps. I haven't had to use one yet. I think that because it is a single 1" U-shape line in the fire box, it is more of a slow and steady climb to heat up? Currently the hottest it gets before someone showers or does dishes is around 160 f. When it gets that hot I also have the option of running that stove lower & another hotter to continue to heat the house. So far I have been loving it.
Yeah, mine was rated at 210 F also. It popped around 220 F. Made quite a roar as it vented the tank. I'd plumed it outside, but it blew the pipe apart where it turned to go down the house wall into the foundation drain system. I was running about 38" of 1" copper pipe in the firebox as my heat exchanger. This happened in the first year I was running the system. I never let the water get that hot again. I've since replaced that big stove with a smaller one and a shorter exchanger. This system doesn't get that hot. I have 3 temp gauges on my system. Two measure temp into and out of the stove and one that measures the temp at the top of the tank.
Good information I am considering coiling a stainless steel tube around the stove pipe of my wood stove taking the heat from that and dumping it into my hot water storage tank that is used for the radiant floor heating it will have to be a separate system the radiant floor only has about 7 psi so it would require a water to water heat exchanger to transfer the heat. My concerns are how hot the coils get if it were to flash into steam and controlling the amount of heat so the hot water storage tank doesn't get to hot. Guess I would need to experiment with how many coils around the pipe and total volume of water on that closed loop and the speed that I circulate it. Good tip on plumbing the vent for the relief outside.
And you would think that till about 1980s the huge and extremely inefficient wood or coal boiler with 3 inch supply and return heating system with cast iron radiators, with no circulation pumps, was a standard heating solution in every residential home in USSR. My grandma had this three door cast iron boiler in her wet basement, it was a scary, five feet tall, three feet wide and three feet deep boiler, that had 3 inch return and supply going to upstairs and in every room there was these crudely made, unpolished since demoulding from sand molds cast iron radiators, and the pipes that to the ceiling for each radiator supply and return, both pipes connecting to the huge 3 inch pipe that went in a circle around the ceiling of each room and finally returned to a boiler. Basic principle of operation: You shovel about 50 kilos of coal into the boiler, set it on fire, and after half an hour you could hear boiling water inside the boiler, basically, the sounds of thunderstorm in your basement, and radiators were crackling with 120'C of heat and your ears melting in the heat of 30'C in every room. That was the way to live. Outside -30'c, indoors +30'c you walk with your bare underwear and do whatever you want.
It wouldn't be good. All water heater/ boilers here in US are closed systems with TP valves. If any valves failed it wouldn't be good. In my opinion wood boiler is probably riskier but I still have faith in the valves. Also when my system is getting really hot I tend to monitor it more closely. So far no problems.
Incorrect. It doesn't have to be open vented. There are very good ways of doing closed systems in the UK when using woodstoves. This is a HETAS approved closed system for woodburners with back boilers. ruclips.net/video/UX1O1kcvo1Q/видео.html
what about over temperature boil over, just pops the TPRV and thats it? I might consider adding a return line from the electric tank (hot) back to the wood tank (cold) with circulating pump that turns on just before the TPRV pops. They sell little mechanical switches on aliexpress for acouple bucks at whatever temperature you pick, say 190F. You could also have a manual pump on switch bypass to prime the second tank from a cold fill.
I have an indirect water heater that is currently setup to be heated with our propane fueled high efficiency boiler. How can I bypass the high efficiency boiler in the winter with a “closed loop” from my wood stove. By the way the wood stove is on the main floor and the indirect water heater is in the basement. I have an extra grunfos pump laying around that I could incorporate but I would like to keep it as simple as possible.
It definitely would be some stuff to work out but here are some thoughts. In my case it's more of a hybrid system. My wood stove is preheating the water in an additional tank before it goes into my main water heater. If the water temperature is hot enough then it won't trigger my main on grid tied heating elements to kick in. Because my extra tank was close to my wood stove I was able to use thermosiphon. If you have to have an additional tank further away or below the wood stove you would have to have some sort of circulating pump. There are more considerations with pump. Just remember to put in safety valves excetera.
So what keeps the water in the main tank servicing your house warm? If it's not hooked up to keep a minimum temp when there is no demand for water? Just a question because I would thunk the water in the main tank would cool down until there is a demand for hot water...just a thought
When I originally put the system in my kids are always making sure that that would never happen. Now it is mainly a hybrid system. When it gets cold and the fire is going for hours down there (basement) it won't trigger electric water heater. When the fire is not going it just is just heated by Electric. If the power went out for some time then I could manage fire and the tanks and make it work. I have thermometers installed in going and outgoing so I can tell what's going on at any given time. There have been times when the fire would go too long and I would simply open a faucet for few minutes to introduce cold water in order to not over heat the water etc. (we have backup gravity fed water as well that dosnt need electricity)
the well supply comes into the cold side, cold out through your bottom drain, through your coil, up inti the top of the tank....how do you get it out of that tank to your electric tank?
The well pump supplies 50 psi. Its a pressurized system so the water want to go somewhere when the faucets are opened. Its the same thing that happens in the electric tank. Hope that helps.
@@wadewilliamson7994 sweet, thank you! ive been trying to figure out a system for my house. Would it work if I piped my cold supply directly into a coil, loop around (several times) the stove pipe, up and into the cold side of a hotwater heater? then the hotside of the heater runs throughout the house like normal.
@@stephentucker2714 Yes, many have done that or something similar. Just use caution. Most folks put a safety valve on their system to mitigate the risks. Don't mess with steam. It can be very dangerous. There are a lot of other videos that do exactly what you are saying. Check them out. Hope your project goes well!
I want to do the same thing ! Just wondering what happens once your domestic water is up to temperature and theres no usage or demand, but the wood stove is still pumping out the heat??? Thanks
It can be an issue. Because the heat just keeps rising in the secondary water heater. When it gets hot I monitor it and have someone take a shower or something. It works good for me because it's a secondary wood stove in my basement, so I can let it die down if it's too hot and just use the upstairs wood stove. I installed some wired probes that run upstairs to a thermometer that I can watch
Great video a question when time allows do respond how did you install the pipes in the stove did you drill a hole in the back of the stove could you please explain thank you
Yes the one-inch u-shaped pipe came with some gussets and I drilled through the heat shield, stove, and broke off small chunk of the bricks in order make it work. It was pretty straight forward. Just have a proper steel drill bit.
I have the Energy max 160. I believe it is the big brother to this stove. with a 1" Stainless Steel loop similar to this one. I am wanting to use this to heat my in floor heating. Here is my main question. How much Degrees does this increase my water flowing through the pipe. and what is the flow rate? I know ill need a pump to circulate through my floor but do I need a pump to circulate through the stove?
How hot the tank gets is all based on how hot and long the Fire gets and Burns. The rate of flow is simply based on and open faucet. Watch a couple videos on how Wells and pressure tanks work and you'll see what I mean.
I have the original electrical WH plugged in as it has to be cold enough to run woodstove consistently. In warmer months when woodstove is not run as much, or even at all, the electric WH kicks on. Its a technically a hybred system.
I bought a kit that includes a 1 inch stainless u-shaped pipe with some washers that are designed to go inside of a wood stove. I drilled holes through the heat shield and through the wood stove itself and through the fire brick in order to install this kit. That's about it.
@@wadewilliamson7994 oh....a kit....seems like this kit has taken off...saw another post with similar kit....probably not that hard to duplicate it. Great video and information.
Hi wade, thanks for your reply and time to put all this info togethier, much appreciated! One more question, how does the water stay warm in the second water heater, the electric one? If it does not circulate? And supplies the house line from that tank? Thanks again for your video and any help with this!
It works as a hybrid system using electricity in the second tank if the water isn't hot enough coming in from the 1st tank. If the power goes out It still works good because the water stays hot for a day or two in the insulated second tank and because we use/ replenish that water before it has time to cool with the heated water from the 1st tank. Hope that helps.
Hi, wondering if can help? I am doing the same sytem but feeling a little dense! I see the water comes from your well into stotage tank, through top inlet cold side, than comes out bottom of storage tank to wood stove than dumps back in to storage tank through the top or is it coming in to the tank at the hot pressure relife valve in the side,? than or, out to hot water tank through hot side on top to electric to the cold side than normal out the hot? And also dont understand the shut off between the two lines on your storage, dont see how it isolates it! Any help much appreciated, kind of confused! Thank for uploading this!
The water circulates coming from the bottom of the tank through the wood stove and back in the top of the water heater where the pressure relief valve is. That's all that's going on there. As far as the water coming in the PEX line and going out of the red PEX line. If I close both of them and open the horizontal valve the water bypasses the tank. Hope that helps.
dreamofmules13 hi . I'm on the same path. I'm going to run the pipe as my grandfather use to from the wood fire to the tank. Safety valve and no need for crazy temp. A waste paper full of little bits of wood. Use existing tank as you do now but zero electric to it. Bypass that by putting a basic 60 pump and everything be like always except free minus wood and 60 w to pressurise the system. That's my plan🤔
I just hooked up a coil of copper around my pipe, the water got so hot it almost exploded the cpvc pipe that was no where near the copper ends it connected to. I need to know what i should do to prevent this and the best way to control it.
Genuine questions. I want to try this into my existing electric water heater. I would like to go in line diectly from fire to tank. The pressure valve will keep it safe as long as temperatures arnt excessive. Use a seperate inexpensive pump eliminating any need for electricity going to the existing electricity guzzling electric water heater. Does this sound feasible??? Any suggestions much appreciated:))
Just a home store hot water heater safety blow off valve so it can't boil and I put on a valve on the highest part designed to release any air that might be in the system. I also put in a thermometer just so I could see how well it was working but that isn't needed.
The well pump is electric. It pressurizes the whole system to 60 psi. It will need a backup power source for sure. However in my case I also have a water tank up the hill from me, and all I have to do is turn on a couple valves to use it. It will give me 22 psi no electricity at all.
Charity McGowen. You can use lots of types of tank. It would need to be able to get hot and not harm anything it would be attached to. It would need to have 4 openings on it if it was set up like mine. Insulated would be a very good thing to hold the heat in. Oh, and if you are using it for domestic water it will need to be ok to have potable water in it. (no old fuel or unwanted chemical residue that might be harmful to you.. etc) Hope that helps.
Good question. I suppose that would happen if you didn't use the hot water for a few days. There are 6 of us using so it isn't a problem. When I planned this system, there was two popular ways to do it. One like my setup, and one using just your main water heater doing the the essentially the same thing. Also, I know that with my 50 gal main water heater, it will stay warm enough to take a shower 3 days after the power goes out if no one was using.
I just don't understand why people call it a " hot water heater " it's a cold water heater or simply a " water heater "! I mean who heats hot water, it's already hot!
Thats awesome! I've always wanted to live off the grid. Have a setup like you have to heat the water and also heat the house by hooking some sheet metal to your fireplace with a blower and a couple of filters to keep the smoke out but essentially what it'll do is move the heated air through the ductwork and through the vents in the home.
Very good video. For once its short and precise and explains everything without endless ummming. love the idea of a simple C shaped stainless steel tube in the fire box. Clever guy
Well done on both counts, video and job. It may not look like a factory product filmed in a pro studio, but what the hell is wrong with the 7 who gave a thumbs down.
I've heated domestic water with my wood stove for 25 years. I have two observations:
1. I didn't see a mention of a "tempering" valve.
The wood stove can heat pressurized water to over 230 degrees. A tempering valve on the hot water line going out into the house will mix unheated water with the flow coming out of the tank to lessen the chance of scalding. They have a dial on them to set the temperature at which they start to open.
2. The pop off should be plumbed out of the house.
I've had tanks pop off. If you've plumbed the tank to avoid mixing and enhance stratification, about half the tank will empty before the incoming water will cool the top of the tank enough to allow the pop off to close. Picture 20 or 30 gallons of scalding hot water flashing to steam in the house and the damage it could cause.
There is tremendous energy in water heated to steam. Be sure your system either can't get that hot or can deal with the consequences.
B.
Brian Brehmeyer Good advice on plumbing the blow off valve. I have research the tempering valve and have been watching my temps. I haven't had to use one yet. I think that because it is a single 1" U-shape line in the fire box, it is more of a slow and steady climb to heat up? Currently the hottest it gets before someone showers or does dishes is around 160 f. When it gets that hot I also have the option of running that stove lower & another hotter to continue to heat the house. So far I have been loving it.
Also the current pop off valves are set to 210 F as not to boil and have a steam issue.
Yeah, mine was rated at 210 F also. It popped around 220 F. Made quite a roar as it vented the tank. I'd plumed it outside, but it blew the pipe apart where it turned to go down the house wall into the foundation drain system. I was running about 38" of 1" copper pipe in the firebox as my heat exchanger.
This happened in the first year I was running the system. I never let the water get that hot again.
I've since replaced that big stove with a smaller one and a shorter exchanger. This system doesn't get that hot.
I have 3 temp gauges on my system. Two measure temp into and out of the stove and one that measures the temp at the top of the tank.
Good information I am considering coiling a stainless steel tube around the stove pipe of my wood stove taking the heat from that and dumping it into my hot water storage tank that is used for the radiant floor heating it will have to be a separate system the radiant floor only has about 7 psi so it would require a water to water heat exchanger to transfer the heat. My concerns are how hot the coils get if it were to flash into steam and controlling the amount of heat so the hot water storage tank doesn't get to hot. Guess I would need to experiment with how many coils around the pipe and total volume of water on that closed loop and the speed that I circulate it. Good tip on plumbing the vent for the relief outside.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video ❤️
I'm thinking about doing a similar setup but use the hot water with a pump for radiant floor heat with pex tubes in concrete. Great video.
i like that idea. the indirect water tank also works well by using wood stove & saves money on electric bill to cut down off.
Excellent . Just the information we needed
Best explanation so far I've found. Than k you!!!!
And you would think that till about 1980s the huge and extremely inefficient wood or coal boiler with 3 inch supply and return heating system with cast iron radiators, with no circulation pumps, was a standard heating solution in every residential home in USSR. My grandma had this three door cast iron boiler in her wet basement, it was a scary, five feet tall, three feet wide and three feet deep boiler, that had 3 inch return and supply going to upstairs and in every room there was these crudely made, unpolished since demoulding from sand molds cast iron radiators, and the pipes that to the ceiling for each radiator supply and return, both pipes connecting to the huge 3 inch pipe that went in a circle around the ceiling of each room and finally returned to a boiler. Basic principle of operation: You shovel about 50 kilos of coal into the boiler, set it on fire, and after half an hour you could hear boiling water inside the boiler, basically, the sounds of thunderstorm in your basement, and radiators were crackling with 120'C of heat and your ears melting in the heat of 30'C in every room. That was the way to live. Outside -30'c, indoors +30'c you walk with your bare underwear and do whatever you want.
Oh yeah, I remember one of those. I sat on one of the radiators for a sec. An experience I never forget.
My stove looks identical to yours, could you do a quick video on how you installed the coil? Also, that was 8 years ago, is it still working? Thanks!
I don't know why this is in my recommendations in 2020 but you Pronounced Craigslist correctly, No crag or creg 👍
update 4 years later?
Thank you for sharing
In the UK, we have to use an open vented system for wood stove boilers. What if the P&T valve failed?
It wouldn't be good. All water heater/ boilers here in US are closed systems with TP valves. If any valves failed it wouldn't be good. In my opinion wood boiler is probably riskier but I still have faith in the valves. Also when my system is getting really hot I tend to monitor it more closely. So far no problems.
Incorrect. It doesn't have to be open vented. There are very good ways of doing closed systems in the UK when using woodstoves. This is a HETAS approved closed system for woodburners with back boilers.
ruclips.net/video/UX1O1kcvo1Q/видео.html
what about over temperature boil over, just pops the TPRV and thats it?
I might consider adding a return line from the electric tank (hot) back to the wood tank (cold) with circulating pump that turns on just before the TPRV pops.
They sell little mechanical switches on aliexpress for acouple bucks at whatever temperature you pick, say 190F. You could also have a manual pump on switch bypass to prime the second tank from a cold fill.
How do you regulate the heat not to have the pressure relief valve open?
I have an indirect water heater that is currently setup to be heated with our propane fueled high efficiency boiler. How can I bypass the high efficiency boiler in the winter with a “closed loop” from my wood stove. By the way the wood stove is on the main floor and the indirect water heater is in the basement. I have an extra grunfos pump laying around that I could incorporate but I would like to keep it as simple as possible.
It definitely would be some stuff to work out but here are some thoughts. In my case it's more of a hybrid system. My wood stove is preheating the water in an additional tank before it goes into my main water heater. If the water temperature is hot enough then it won't trigger my main on grid tied heating elements to kick in. Because my extra tank was close to my wood stove I was able to use thermosiphon. If you have to have an additional tank further away or below the wood stove you would have to have some sort of circulating pump. There are more considerations with pump. Just remember to put in safety valves excetera.
So what keeps the water in the main tank servicing your house warm? If it's not hooked up to keep a minimum temp when there is no demand for water? Just a question because I would thunk the water in the main tank would cool down until there is a demand for hot water...just a thought
When I originally put the system in my kids are always making sure that that would never happen. Now it is mainly a hybrid system. When it gets cold and the fire is going for hours down there (basement) it won't trigger electric water heater. When the fire is not going it just is just heated by Electric. If the power went out for some time then I could manage fire and the tanks and make it work. I have thermometers installed in going and outgoing so I can tell what's going on at any given time. There have been times when the fire would go too long and I would simply open a faucet for few minutes to introduce cold water in order to not over heat the water etc. (we have backup gravity fed water as well that dosnt need electricity)
the well supply comes into the cold side, cold out through your bottom drain, through your coil, up inti the top of the tank....how do you get it out of that tank to your electric tank?
The well pump supplies 50 psi. Its a pressurized system so the water want to go somewhere when the faucets are opened. Its the same thing that happens in the electric tank. Hope that helps.
@@wadewilliamson7994 sweet, thank you! ive been trying to figure out a system for my house. Would it work if I piped my cold supply directly into a coil, loop around (several times) the stove pipe, up and into the cold side of a hotwater heater? then the hotside of the heater runs throughout the house like normal.
@@stephentucker2714 Yes, many have done that or something similar. Just use caution. Most folks put a safety valve on their system to mitigate the risks. Don't mess with steam. It can be very dangerous. There are a lot of other videos that do exactly what you are saying. Check them out. Hope your project goes well!
@@wadewilliamson7994 Thanks Wade, I sincerely appreciate it ! have been banging my head against the wall on that puzzle for a few days now lol
is there a limit for copper pipe run vertical versus horizontal
I want to do the same thing ! Just wondering what happens once your domestic water is up to temperature and theres no usage or demand, but the wood stove is still pumping out the heat??? Thanks
It can be an issue. Because the heat just keeps rising in the secondary water heater. When it gets hot I monitor it and have someone take a shower or something. It works good for me because it's a secondary wood stove in my basement, so I can let it die down if it's too hot and just use the upstairs wood stove. I installed some wired probes that run upstairs to a thermometer that I can watch
Great video a question when time allows do respond how did you install the pipes in the stove did you drill a hole in the back of the stove could you please explain thank you
Yes the one-inch u-shaped pipe came with some gussets and I drilled through the heat shield, stove, and broke off small chunk of the bricks in order make it work. It was pretty straight forward. Just have a proper steel drill bit.
I have the Energy max 160. I believe it is the big brother to this stove. with a 1" Stainless Steel loop similar to this one. I am wanting to use this to heat my in floor heating. Here is my main question. How much Degrees does this increase my water flowing through the pipe. and what is the flow rate? I know ill need a pump to circulate through my floor but do I need a pump to circulate through the stove?
How hot the tank gets is all based on how hot and long the Fire gets and Burns. The rate of flow is simply based on and open faucet. Watch a couple videos on how Wells and pressure tanks work and you'll see what I mean.
Did you find the DHW heater kept constant up to temp or did you end up plugging into power was of benefit?
I have the original electrical WH plugged in as it has to be cold enough to run woodstove consistently. In warmer months when woodstove is not run as much, or even at all, the electric WH kicks on. Its a technically a hybred system.
So your craigslist find is a gas type water heater used to store your heated water..? Please describe your loop inside the wood fired stove...?
I bought a kit that includes a 1 inch stainless u-shaped pipe with some washers that are designed to go inside of a wood stove. I drilled holes through the heat shield and through the wood stove itself and through the fire brick in order to install this kit. That's about it.
@@wadewilliamson7994 oh....a kit....seems like this kit has taken off...saw another post with similar kit....probably not that hard to duplicate it. Great video and information.
@@offgridmangogrower www.amazon.com/dp/B001D5JTB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pVY.FbGNM4XGJ
Interesting! Why 2 cylinders?
preheat, in series.
Hi wade, thanks for your reply and time to put all this info togethier, much appreciated! One more question, how does the water stay warm in the second water heater, the electric one? If it does not circulate? And supplies the house line from that tank? Thanks again for your video and any help with this!
It works as a hybrid system using electricity in the second tank if the water isn't hot enough coming in from the 1st tank. If the power goes out It still works good because the water stays hot for a day or two in the insulated second tank and because we use/ replenish that water before it has time to cool with the heated water from the 1st tank. Hope that helps.
Hi, wondering if can help? I am doing the same sytem but feeling a little dense! I see the water comes from your well into stotage tank, through top inlet cold side, than comes out bottom of storage tank to wood stove than dumps back in to storage tank through the top or is it coming in to the tank at the hot pressure relife valve in the side,? than or, out to hot water tank through hot side on top to electric to the cold side than normal out the hot? And also dont understand the shut off between the two lines on your storage, dont see how it isolates it! Any help much appreciated, kind of confused! Thank for uploading this!
The water circulates coming from the bottom of the tank through the wood stove and back in the top of the water heater where the pressure relief valve is. That's all that's going on there. As far as the water coming in the PEX line and going out of the red PEX line. If I close both of them and open the horizontal valve the water bypasses the tank. Hope that helps.
dreamofmules13 hi . I'm on the same path. I'm going to run the pipe as my grandfather use to from the wood fire to the tank. Safety valve and no need for crazy temp. A waste paper full of little bits of wood. Use existing tank as you do now but zero electric to it. Bypass that by putting a basic 60 pump and everything be like always except free minus wood and 60 w to pressurise the system. That's my plan🤔
I just hooked up a coil of copper around my pipe, the water got so hot it almost exploded the cpvc pipe that was no where near the copper ends it connected to. I need to know what i should do to prevent this and the best way to control it.
Shorten the coil of copper.
i know you said in another comment your well pump is electric.. is it mounted in the tank ? I'm just curious what the line going into the tank is ?
Genuine questions. I want to try this into my existing electric water heater. I would like to go in line diectly from fire to tank. The pressure valve will keep it safe as long as temperatures arnt excessive. Use a seperate inexpensive pump eliminating any need for electricity going to the existing electricity guzzling electric water heater. Does this sound feasible??? Any suggestions much appreciated:))
Very nice
what kind of gauges do you need?nice video
Just a home store hot water heater safety blow off valve so it can't boil and I put on a valve on the highest part designed to release any air that might be in the system. I also put in a thermometer just so I could see how well it was working but that isn't needed.
SO the pressurized tank uses electricity right?
The well pump is electric. It pressurizes the whole system to 60 psi. It will need a backup power source for sure. However in my case I also have a water tank up the hill from me, and all I have to do is turn on a couple valves to use it. It will give me 22 psi no electricity at all.
what alternatives can you use for a water heater tank
Charity McGowen. You can use lots of types of tank. It would need to be able to get hot and not harm anything it would be attached to. It would need to have 4 openings on it if it was set up like mine. Insulated would be a very good thing to hold the heat in. Oh, and if you are using it for domestic water it will need to be ok to have potable water in it. (no old fuel or unwanted chemical residue that might be harmful to you.. etc) Hope that helps.
Wade Williamson thank you that was a big help. any kind of insulation?
Charity McGowen any that can handle temps up to 210 degrees plus.
what happens if the temperature of the water in the electric heater goes down. how does the water get reheated by the wood stove
Good question. I suppose that would happen if you didn't use the hot water for a few days. There are 6 of us using so it isn't a problem. When I planned this system, there was two popular ways to do it. One like my setup, and one using just your main water heater doing the the essentially the same thing. Also, I know that with my 50 gal main water heater, it will stay warm enough to take a shower 3 days after the power goes out if no one was using.
I plumed my system so either the preheat tank or the main electric tank could be bypassed in case of power outage or repair.
Brian Brehmeyer That is a great idea. I already have the bypass on the first tank. I will add one to the main tank. It is very easy with pex.
By default, all solid fuel boilers need to be open vented. You are in violation of UK code. 🙂
😆😂🤣
I’ll get
Ever heard of the Declaration of Independance? It specifically states "UK Laws are Nanny Laws and UK Laws don't apply anymore" Happy 4th of July!!
@@guyroberts9377 the suspense is killing me. What will you get?
This is how it used to be done, but 100% illegal, against epa, homeowners insurance wont cover a fire, house could burn down, etc.
I just don't understand why people call it a " hot water heater " it's a cold water heater or simply a " water heater "! I mean who heats hot water, it's already hot!
Its a term that has been used for years. Stop acting like an entitled Liberal who is offended over the dumbest things.