well i have a vtwin mower that does 45 with the stock rear end. no problems shifting on the fly yet. has been in service for 2 years now and diff is not welded reverse chain is still in case and giving me no problems. i did however fill the rear end with genuine gm gear lube out of and old can from the 50's. math has rear end pully spinning at 9'000 rpm when motor is spining at 3'500 rpm.... is wicked fun
Find a Peerless 700 series (needs to be 700 series - there's a tag that's usually covered by the shifter arm you need to take off to find the series number) -- find the 700 series on almost all rear engine mowers such as the john deere's - that's where I found not one but two of them. Save 250$ by looking for yourself rather than buying one online :) Great detail on this video Mike! I'm learning how to make the mounting plate for it so it doesn't destroy itself. :) I wish I could find a pdf i could print out thats actual size for a template!
Thanks for the video, i have a Huskee 18hp with a peerless gearbox, i dont know if I need to put fluid or grease on it... Peerless told me it uses grease, but watching your video you put both,, what kind fluid you used? Thank you...
Cool video boss. Ive been looking into these peerless for a go kart. Hopefully it will help with hill climbs and speed on the flat land. What size sprockets do you run on the axle and transmission?
Hey, I have a Peerless transmission like this. It’s a 3-speed with reverse. One of the gears is damaged. How do I identify the gear so I can order a new one?
I have a 770 trans going into a mini bike, there is going to be a clutch between the engine and the trans but the output shaft is going right to the rear tire with a chain. With that setup do I run the risk of breaking the shift keys if I shift while moving?
I found your video to be very interesting and maybe you can help me. My Scag mower with a 700-070 transmission in certain gears seems to jump out of gear then back in, causing the mower to buck. Do you know what will cause this? Is it an easy fix and can it be done without removing the transmission from the mower?
Man, no grease, it's not needed. Just use a good synthetic 75-90 gear oil like Mobile One. Also, my friends and I had Peerless start manufacturing some 3spd 700's just for our race applications. They run $350.00 but are bullet proof.
MikesBigBlock you must not be running much horsepower then. I run BP. Actually it's not, the others we used to use only lasted a couple races if we were lucky. Those awful EC "race" transmissions were the worst. They lasted one race day if we were lucky.
MikesBigBlock yes and the gears are total junk also. Ours are the best. They have heat treated gears, four shift keys, ball bearings on the output shaft and a few other tricks that make them run perfect.
I got a peerless 700 used with some broken gears for $35 then for $120 got non sintered steel bevel and pinion gears and $4 an oil seal for the shaft then used heavy 85-90w lucas tractor trailer trans oil (commonly used in racecars). I am only using 1 gear set right now though cause I figured the less in the trans the less chance of something breaking, also I have no way to fit a shifter right now. btw this is all on a motorcycle with a vertical shaft engine.
I'm assuming you've being using this transmission for 2 years now, how do you get around the problem of not being able to shift on the fly? I used one of the cheaper aftermarket transmissions (yea I know probably not the best choice) and shifted on the fly with it and it completely got eaten up on the shifter keys and the parts of the gears they come into contact with. My question is are you able to shift on the fly with the older transmissions like yours or can you not shift on the fly at all? And if so how do you get around that problem of not being able to shift on the flY? A response would be greatly appreciated, cheers
shifting on the fly is never recommend you will break shift keys & possibly a case in the worst situation, all we run are peerless 700 series transmissions some are two keys some are 4 keys. you can update a 2 key to a 4 key, the two keys shifting on the fly you will wear out the shift keys & it will not hold in a gear the four key you can you need to bevel the inlet side of the counter gear (shifter key insert end) by beveling it you are adding a easier transition into that gear instead of a hard square insert when shifted up a gear. the shift keys are made out of a soft metal so that i will break the shift keys (cheaper) then breaking the drive gears (expensive).
Thanks for the reply, beveling is what I thought of doing and actually started to work on today. Just when you race lawnmowers how do you shift gear without stopping?
Thanks again for the advice, I'm going to be trying the beveling idea on the damaged transmission i have now just to see if it improves the shifting and staying in gear then I'm most likely going to buy a proper original peerless 700 rather that the chinese aftermarket clone i have now that got damaged so easily.
Hey there Mike I am Steve Jones I am wanting to build a Mower Racer and was wondering if there are any Spects that you have to go by to building a Racing Mower? I rather build my Cart to Spects and do it right the First time then to keep doing it over and over again.
Question for you, I don't race but have commercial mower with a 700-083 in it. When I'm going it feels like it slips out of gear then pops back in, causing a lurch while I am mowing. @ 12:45 in the video you mentioned that Allan screw that has a spring behind it that goes to the shifter holding it in gear if I understood you correctly. If I screw that in further will it help hold it into gear better? I know it's non racing, but nobody at my small engine shop I use knows anything about then. Ugh Thanks in advance for any help. Dan
Mine does the same thing I think I'm gonna try to run that Allen set screw in further. Wish he didn't get out of racing the mowers but times change I guess
Belt-drive walk-behind commercial mowers and rear-engined jobbies like craftsman/murray and the like. Not Snapper--that's a totally different apparatus (gearless actually).
I don't have one like this transmission but mine was stuck in 5th and I tried to fix it but now the input shaft feels locked up unless I loosen the bolts , by doing that the shaft is still hard to spin, any idea as to what I could do?
well i have a vtwin mower that does 45 with the stock rear end. no problems shifting on the fly yet. has been in service for 2 years now and diff is not welded reverse chain is still in case and giving me no problems. i did however fill the rear end with genuine gm gear lube out of and old can from the 50's. math has rear end pully spinning at 9'000 rpm when motor is spining at 3'500 rpm.... is wicked fun
love see this stuff.. i mixed the same grease up in bucket stuck a bit of zinc in as i had it for my flat tappet movers n ole 350 chevy
Find a Peerless 700 series (needs to be 700 series - there's a tag that's usually covered by the shifter arm you need to take off to find the series number) -- find the 700 series on almost all rear engine mowers such as the john deere's - that's where I found not one but two of them. Save 250$ by looking for yourself rather than buying one online :) Great detail on this video Mike! I'm learning how to make the mounting plate for it so it doesn't destroy itself. :) I wish I could find a pdf i could print out thats actual size for a template!
I have like 6 of those laying around, didn’t know they are worth that much
im in belgium, its $800 for a peerless ...
@@Boemel Buy from ebay, there are special kind of retards ripping people off.
Thanks for the video, i have a Huskee 18hp with a peerless gearbox, i dont know if I need to put fluid or grease on it... Peerless told me it uses grease, but watching your video you put both,, what kind fluid you used?
Thank you...
Cool video boss. Ive been looking into these peerless for a go kart. Hopefully it will help with hill climbs and speed on the flat land. What size sprockets do you run on the axle and transmission?
Hey, I have a Peerless transmission like this. It’s a 3-speed with reverse. One of the gears is damaged. How do I identify the gear so I can order a new one?
I run 90 weight gear oil in mine
I have a 770 trans going into a mini bike, there is going to be a clutch between the engine and the trans but the output shaft is going right to the rear tire with a chain. With that setup do I run the risk of breaking the shift keys if I shift while moving?
You can also swap the gears around to get a 1-1 gear ratio
I've got a place by me that has daily/weekly shipments of beat up scrap mowers and you can go in there and pick up a peerless 700 for $30.
i need some
hey mike love your vids keep making more.
I found your video to be very interesting and maybe you can help me. My Scag mower with a 700-070 transmission in certain gears seems to jump out of gear then back in, causing the mower to buck. Do you know what will cause this? Is it an easy fix and can it be done without removing the transmission from the mower?
Man, no grease, it's not needed. Just use a good synthetic 75-90 gear oil like Mobile One.
Also, my friends and I had Peerless start manufacturing some 3spd 700's just for our race applications. They run $350.00 but are bullet proof.
never had a internal failure doing it this way $350 is allot for a transmission
MikesBigBlock you must not be running much horsepower then. I run BP. Actually it's not, the others we used to use only lasted a couple races if we were lucky. Those awful EC "race" transmissions were the worst. They lasted one race day if we were lucky.
The EC casings are thin remans i run OEM peerless they hold up better
MikesBigBlock yes and the gears are total junk also. Ours are the best. They have heat treated gears, four shift keys, ball bearings on the output shaft and a few other tricks that make them run perfect.
I got a peerless 700 used with some broken gears for $35 then for $120 got non sintered steel bevel and pinion gears and $4 an oil seal for the shaft then used heavy 85-90w lucas tractor trailer trans oil (commonly used in racecars). I am only using 1 gear set right now though cause I figured the less in the trans the less chance of something breaking, also I have no way to fit a shifter right now. btw this is all on a motorcycle with a vertical shaft engine.
good video but you should never mix lubricants
what size sprocket? and where from?! part number?
I'm assuming you've being using this transmission for 2 years now, how do you get around the problem of not being able to shift on the fly? I used one of the cheaper aftermarket transmissions (yea I know probably not the best choice) and shifted on the fly with it and it completely got eaten up on the shifter keys and the parts of the gears they come into contact with. My question is are you able to shift on the fly with the older transmissions like yours or can you not shift on the fly at all? And if so how do you get around that problem of not being able to shift on the flY? A response would be greatly appreciated, cheers
shifting on the fly is never recommend you will break shift keys & possibly a case in the worst situation, all we run are peerless 700 series transmissions some are two keys some are 4 keys. you can update a 2 key to a 4 key, the two keys shifting on the fly you will wear out the shift keys & it will not hold in a gear the four key you can you need to bevel the inlet side of the counter gear (shifter key insert end) by beveling it you are adding a easier transition into that gear instead of a hard square insert when shifted up a gear. the shift keys are made out of a soft metal so that i will break the shift keys (cheaper) then breaking the drive gears (expensive).
Thanks for the reply, beveling is what I thought of doing and actually started to work on today. Just when you race lawnmowers how do you shift gear without stopping?
@@emmettcarr2988 apply light pressure as you are on the throttle then let off throttle & apply more pressure it should slide into next gear
Thanks again for the advice, I'm going to be trying the beveling idea on the damaged transmission i have now just to see if it improves the shifting and staying in gear then I'm most likely going to buy a proper original peerless 700 rather that the chinese aftermarket clone i have now that got damaged so easily.
Hey man i have a spicer transaxel with the 4 keyway shaft in it do you thing i can shift it when i move i have a clutch on the engine
yes just rpm match your gears when you shift
Where did u buy the transmission and how do you use bandit racing chassis website
what is recommended torque for the bolts holding the transmission together.
i generally would recommend 7 ft lbs but i normally snug with 1/4" ratchet then go 1/4 turn with blue lock tight
Hey there Mike I am Steve Jones I am wanting to build a Mower Racer and was wondering if there are any Spects that you have to go by to building a Racing Mower? I rather build my Cart to Spects and do it right the First time then to keep doing it over and over again.
What specs are you looking for?
Question for you, I don't race but have commercial mower with a 700-083 in it. When I'm going it feels like it slips out of gear then pops back in, causing a lurch while I am mowing. @ 12:45 in the video you mentioned that Allan screw that has a spring behind it that goes to the shifter holding it in gear if I understood you correctly.
If I screw that in further will it help hold it into gear better?
I know it's non racing, but nobody at my small engine shop I use knows anything about then. Ugh
Thanks in advance for any help.
Dan
Mine does the same thing I think I'm gonna try to run that Allen set screw in further. Wish he didn't get out of racing the mowers but times change I guess
you need new shift keys your are worn out
Apply the seal on the cover case instead it's way easier
You know what lawnmower that 700 transmmison in????
Belt-drive walk-behind commercial mowers and rear-engined jobbies like craftsman/murray and the like. Not Snapper--that's a totally different apparatus (gearless actually).
I don't have one like this transmission but mine was stuck in 5th and I tried to fix it but now the input shaft feels locked up unless I loosen the bolts , by doing that the shaft is still hard to spin, any idea as to what I could do?
Wolf Nation it might have a bent shaft causing it to bind.
Where do u get the sprocket for the side
ec distributing
If you strip it out just grab a helicoil kit and fix it rofl
Way, way, way too much RTV.