Adding Fresh Air Intake to Existing Furnace
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- Опубликовано: 21 апр 2023
- Although a fresh air intake is not required for all applications, it does help keep your furnace heat exchanger in good condition. This particular job it was necessary as the basement proved to be an especially corrosive environment.
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I really like and appreciate you showing us details, thank you!
I think almost all condensing furnaces should be installed as 2-pipe. Using indoor air for combustion takes away the advantage of not drying out the house from having cold, outdoor air replace it and also cuts the efficiency a tad for the same reason.
Though I also despise 2-stage furnaces on single stage thermostats and automatically assuming factory high speed is right for cooling, yet most seem to be done like that.
In an unfinished basement where it's easy to run pipes and thermostat wires, there's no excuse for either single pipe or single stage stat on 2-stage furnace. (and goodman royally screwed up their gmvc by removing w2 from the board -no excuse for that either)
Hello I enjoy your movies.Can I say a few things. I am not trying to trash you since You most likely did not install this unit.
At 4:40, the filter is on the side of furnace.
The supply air going to the above rooms, have no visible return path to furnace,other than the stairs,which would make a hellish draft and noise.
I won't even talk about the wood stand that furnace is sitting on,hopefully the furnace is rated for use on combustable surfaces.
I recommend the INTAKE pipe use the snorkel extension,with a double elbow to keep the rain out.
The (exhaust)venter motor will push out any snow that might get in, easier than the intake sucking in snow.
The a/c line set is not sealed to outside, bugs can enter and mice can make the hole bigger very fast and the holes could let in flue gasses to the house,since the basement is a big depressurized zone,again because of the lack of a proper cold air return.
Hey, you were there and I wasn't and could see If saw what I saw.
Yeah, not everything there is conventional. What did you think of that plumbing right at the end? This is one of those old farm houses that uses a "Wild return" which depending on the setup has some advantages and disadvantages. As for wether or not it's rated for contact with combustible surfaces, most modern furnaces are rated to contact them at least on the bottom. Even garage heaters only require an inch of clearance on the top (where they are mounted). I am glad you got some entertainment from it nonetheless! ☺
If you look again, the furnace has a return drop and filter on one side, and a open filter on the other - poor man's basement return. i just hope there isn't a natural draft water heater near by.
No return drop? Just a filter on the side of it so drawing all RA from said basement?
On your exhaust pipe, the white pvc looks like it is going into a black rubber connector? I have leaking water around my flange the is attached to the top of the cabinet(where the white pvc is attached and the gray flue pipe on the inside attaches to the flange on the bottom). Do you think my connections were glued? Im sure they were and I plan on getting a new flue pipe, maybe the flue elbow pipe and a new flange & gasket. Somehow water is leaking from around the flange(I checked the drain hoses inside & water is draining into the side catch & pumping out of the condensate pump. Im thinking theres gotta be a crack where the flange and pvc meet? Sorry for the long text just frustrated lol
Well, I would suggest trying to tighten up the clamps on the rubber fernco. Sometimes they work loose or the rubber shrinks a bit causing a leak. The other thing you could do is pull the condensate trap off and rinse it out good. Make sure the dip tubes are clean and not blocked off. I wouldn't think it necessary to replace the whole pipe. If you can just find where it's leaking I would just fix that.
@@ReubenSahlstrom I don't have the black rubber fernco. Mine is a gray Goodman flange(part #200497) that has a think gasket where its seated into the top of the furnace cabinet. The gray flue pipe inside the furnace is connected to the bottom of this flange, and then a 45 white pvc is connected to the top of the flange. It is leaking water on top of the cabinet front around that gray flange. Ive taken apart all the drain hoses and pipes to make sure theyre clear, which they are. Disconnected the condensate and water is being pumped out, no problem. I think either the flange has a small crack or it needs to be resealed at the 45. I think the water is leaking when it runs back into the furnace in the exhaust line and a small amount is seeping thru the crack while most gets pumped out.
Goodman seems to design some things very well and some things terribly. Their burners inducers and pressure switches are pretty easy to access, but I can't figure out why they liked to put their blower capacitors all the way at the back of the blower. Also their condenser coils are trash.
You my man, have been around the block. I have found the same issues with Goodman as you. Their heat pumps are not very reliable. I am always fixing leaks and low voltage lines on them.