How to Waterproof Boots with Wax | Nicks Handmade Boots
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
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In this video, Nathaniel from Craft & Lore shows us how he waterproofs his Nicks Boots with beeswax. This method is all-natural and produces a highly water-resistant boot. Like all waterproofing, maintenance is necessary. Pick up a Nicks Work Boot Care Kit for the brush, conditioner, and some other care items. Find a local beekeeper and buy your wax locally from them. Then, have fun and get to work waxing your boots!
For the last two years, we've been working tirelessly with our USA tanneries to produce leather that is more similar to the "classic boot leather recipe" we used decades ago. The 1964 Brown is similar to these older leathers in temper and color. While our current work boot leathers are great and have worked well for years, we are always looking to improve. We have packed oils, waxes, and natural conditioners into the leather so that they'll feel even better out of the box. They are just as durable as our current offerings and work great in all applications, including fire. After field-testing the leather, it wears and burnishes like every boot should, gaining character as it takes a beating. Nicks Boots in Spokane Washington has been making the toughest handmade boots since 1964. As always, if you have additional questions, check out our FAQs below!
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#waterproof #workboots #nicksboots 
Хобби
Who stuck around until the end? 😂
I will definitely be giving this a shot on my rough out boots after they get a little more broken in! Thanks yall have really stepped up the game on your videos.
I’m paused at 9:20. I plan on completing. We shall see.
Well I’m glad I did cause I saw him smell the boot and made me happy I’m not the only one that does that😅
@@SethSmith-jl1pq All the time!
Yeah this will work the same for rough out boots correct?
everybody out there, do youselves a favor and listen to me: the wax part is great. They way this guy goes about applying it is way to hard and will give you a spotty (literally) result. Use your heat gun to melt the wax into a bowl of some kind. Double boil it, whatever. Then apply heat to your boots and paint the liquified wax on with a brush. you will get it on much more evenly. Yes, it will clump up a bit so you hit it with the heat gun. The main thing is don't take a big block of beeswax and do it like he does. I also recommend doing the welt first and then working up.
Well stated. This is exactly how I apply BearGuard boot waterproofing. It contains bear fat and bees wax which makes it pretty hard to apply when cool. I'll put the tin in a toaster oven at 250* or so and let it melt down and then maintain the melt using a candle warmer. The wax is usually warm enough to stay melted but not enough to burn your fingers as I like to apply by hand.
Exactly, great comments…. I set the oven to 250 degrees, when I’ve got the boot coated in wax I turn the oven off and toss them in for 10 minutes. When they come out I just do a quick buff. This is how I do my leather mittens for snowboarding, as well as leather boots.
I thought the guys here did great but also had similar concerns and I don’t feel compelled to go out and get a heat gun as I’d have no other use for it. I DO have a candle making kit with beeswax. Could I accomplish the task by heating the leather with a standard hairdryer and rubbing melted wax onto it?
@@katbtrx Yes.
I would add: Condition the leather before waxing with some leather conditioner. It's easier to get that conditioner in there, the wax also blocks the conditioner from absorbing in as well.
Or just use sno seal if you're lazy like me, it's basically mink oil puls beeswax
I'm a former paratrooper and I can tell you we used to do similar with Kiwi wax on our Corcorans. We would brush on the Kiwi with the round brush and then melt it with a lighter. We'd follow that with a buff with a nylon stocking and then "spit shine" with a pad cut from a T shirt slightly dipped in water. Yeah it took hours but when your wearing them and look down and can see your reflection in the toe you know you'll ace inspection! :)
Amazing.
Totally agree. AATW.
I can smell this comment.
That's how I do it.. it always produces a good shine
Does the Army still issue black boots to airborne? Sounds like I was in the military long after you, but shining black boots is a big part of enlisted navy shipboard life. I’ve inhaled my share of black shoe polish.
I love when craftsmen share and work together. Dont get to see it often in today's society sadly
Gotta love the small business support 👊
I purchased a pair of the 1964 travelers yesterday. I probably won’t be waxing them but after seeing this I am even more excited t get them in a couple months! Will be my third pair of Nicks.
Very cool. To add, the smell of heated bees wax rocks. I was dabbling in blacksmithing when my mentor used beeswax on a hook I made to change the appearance. He said he loved the smell, I agree. It smells great.
Bet you guys never thought a boot channel would be so popular! Love the videos
We're just glad to share the boot love.
I love how this looks. I think if you used a double boiler to melt the wax then a small paint brush to apply you'd likely get a cleaner application. the heat gun to warm the leather would still be necessary.
I really appreciate this. I am a mink oil guy and it’s great to know there’s other options. Thanks.
Nice!
Me too. I over mink oiled my red wings and nearly destroyed them. Happy to see other methods. (I’m a every weekend Square away your equipment guy)
@@brianblack546 i use to do the same over oil my redwing logger boots , it would weaken the leather detroriate it , i have up until a few years ago started with the bees wax , it makes the leather stronger and waterproof and shine up easy with a micro fiber cloth , the best thing i have done .
@@jeffdutcher3676 Thanks, I’ll try bees wax.
GOOD STUFF. Just ordered my beeswax! Craft and Lore site looks high quality -- love the boots! -- though I already have most of those needs filled.
Love the beeswax. We use it for a lot of stuff and it’s awesome. Blessing.
i use only nicks heavy duty LP and i am pretty pleased with the results..
I've been doing this with a double boiler and painting it on, then follow up with a heat gun. It's a quicker process.
This is exactly what I was thinking
Yes. This is exactly how I wax my suede
Love the 1964's. Love the bee's wax idea, but love the color of the untreated leather. Great channel. I'm going out west next year, going to pay you a visit. Can't wait.
Sounds great! Looking forward to having you out!
Good video! I have some nice American made boots that I want to try this on. Thank you!
I love the look of those builder pro in that 1964 leather
Sure are nice!
I am organizing plans to get fitted for a pair (likely 2 pair afterwards)
it literally requires planning because of where I live. but I am going to love the traveling and I'm confident boots of this caliber are going to serve me well down the road.
Awesome stuff !!! 🤟🏼👏 I’ll be ready now to take my boots to work lol and not worry too much of getting them covered in water
Oh yeah!
Got my urban loggers all wax up now just waiting on my builder pros made to order to come and I’m ready to pull the trigger on the travelers 1964 made to order
I started using Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner with Beeswax. Stuff waterproofs your leather, and works like a charm.
I would love to see a video on care and maintenance in regards to the footbed. I have seen plenty who can maintain there uppers but end up with cracked footbeds requiring rebuilds. There really is a lack of instruction and most of it amounts to put mink oil on it. As a boot manufacturer I would love to see and hear your take on that.
Also second the melt it in a metal can, use a horse hair brush 2”. You can also get beeswax in a clearer color if you want it to darken less. The key thing to keep in mind is you really need to give the leather excellent dry time. Be sure to give enough time on a Peet Shoe Dryer and insert a shoe tree and or boot tree to help maintain shape while they cool.
Also shy of muck, hiking in wet conditions/shale, or excessive time spent in salt n’snow for hours on end this is of course overkill. However everyone should have one pair of boots that they are willing to put through hell and back and beeswaxing has no substitute! In style forum there is a method called the cranes method of waterproofing. You can get pretty close with Heavy Duty LP with that method too. It takes two heavy coats though.
I would put emphasis on the no going back part. Also this erases any chance of a patina usually. Function over form and all that. But for people who want to put on a pair of boots, unload truck loads of soil, hike in shale, mow the lawn, work in the warehouse or construction it will keep your feet dry and your uppers intact. You know it is wearing off when that scuff will no longer rub out and the boot feels dry.
I found beeswaxing lasts 6 months to a year. It takes a long time and several coats and lots of buffing but you sure know that you can count on your boots!
Lastly for cleaning beeswaxed leather I found no substitute for using a bar of Fieblings Glycerin saddle soap. It sometimes takes up to three 3 coats but when you’ve completely impregnated the wax getting off the old layers can take some time. Be sure to oil the fibers or use Heavy Duty LP for a base coat after though. Those fibers will be dry and prone to abrasion! I had a pair of boots I put through hell doing this until the leather footbed cracked, The uppers still are in amazing shape despite everything they have experienced! They are a permanent color of brown although the pullup effect of the leather was maintained.
Lot of good info here. We'll crank some more videos out to answer some of these.
@@nicksboots Sounds good, I very much will look forward to watching those videos.
To remove old wax, put turpentine on a cloth and wipe the boots well. Follow with warm water and saddle soap.
Toooo long....didn't read
I'd be interested to know if the applying of the wax then blocks the leather from taking up the leather oil/preservative? It seems it would to some degree?
Good one guys.. do you know of a workaround to waterproofing your tan boots without darkening the leather?
Hey I likee the video, however I had a doubt. I use leather boots to ride my motorcycle, and this will be very helpful when it rains, but dont you think the wax will melt with the heat of the engine beeing too cloose to the boots?
The way we used to do it in ROTC is soften a small amount of wax in a dish or paper plate in microwave. Doesn't have to be liquid, just soft. Smear it into the boot with a hot wet rag, just to coating the boot completely. Preheat oven to 150, heat your waxed boot about 3 minutes or until it starts to smell. Don't burn it, it's not a turkey. Buff warm boot with cold wet rag, rubbing in vigorous small circles. You can get a mirror finish with any cheap wax good enough to clearly see your face in the boot.
I'm at about 30-40 hours into breaking my new boots in. Can I add beeswax before the full break-in is complete?
For 25 years I kept my all leather (inside and out) Fabiano mountaineering boots absolutely waterproof with Sno Seal. Just heat them up a bit with a hair dryer and apply to outside including the welt. Never failed me once in creeks, snow, slush or anything wet. Just need a stout pair of goretex gaiters and good to go for days.
Thanks for the input!
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
@@davidmartinez1870 Sno Seal is literally the safest shoe product made IMHO.
@@davidmartinez1870 if you use any conditioner on a leather midsole it'll eventually soak in and destroy the adhesive connecting the outsole to the midsole. I think that would still happen if you used kiwi products as well and I'm not sure if it'd happen if you used pure beeswax but it probably would
How long should you wait to do this? I've been wearing my boots for about 2 weeks now. The person I ordered them from told me not to put anything on them until I brake them in. She said not to use the nicks greese until they are broken in because the leather needs to breath to form to my feet. Is this true? I'm worried about them in the rain because they seem to just soak up water like a sponge
If I clean these with a saddle soap for regular maintenance will it destroy the bees wax? What are the cleaning limitations to this method? I wear mine for work and I rely on them.
Great Video! Who makes Nathaniel's vest? Very cool!
How often should the wax be re-applied?
Will this method work better than something like Sno-Seal? My concern is preventing damage to the leather from road salt. It's frustrating to want good leather boots, but living in an area where everything is covered in salt in the winter! I tried Sno-Seal, but it didn't seem to work that well.
I just got my boots in the mail, wondering if the same care goes for roughout leather? Or what to do with roughout leather in the beginning for a long healthy boot life
It's a bit like TIG or gas welding, isn't it? you heat the base metal (leather), then dip the filler rod (wax) into the base metal, keeping the heat constant and moving on when one area is fused together.
Do yourself a favor and use a hair dryer. I've been using a hair dryer to waterproof my leather for decades. They get plenty hot, and you don't have to worry about burning yourself, burning the leather, harming other materials within the boots (or jacket), or breaking down any glues. Considering the limited amount of surface area on a pair of boots, it adds little time to this process. Beeswax melts at 143-151°F, and a hair dryer easily hits that temperature.
Great advice! We'll have to try with that!
@@snek9353 I can't say that I pay a lot of attention to that in the short term, but I can tell you that in the long term, as I look at them now, my boots are possibly softer as a result. I also have to say that pure beeswax isn't my proofer of choice. I'd go with something like Obenauf's Heavy-Duty LP. Beeswax is a component.
@@snek9353 This is the exact process of hardening leather for armor. It will make your boots very stiff. On the toe and heal probably fine, perhaps prefered. On the rest of the boot that you want to move? You would break it up rather quickly seeing as how the leather is thin unlike armor. So the wax will "work" itself through friction to basically keep itself fluid. The issue I have really is that the leather ends up being harder to dry out on the inside of the boot after you take it off. I feel like you're rotting the boot from the inside out at that point. Does it make the boot last longer because you can only wear it half as often, because of the time it needs to dry between wearing it? If you need extra rugged and extra waterproof at the same time this may be you're only true option. Those conditions would not make any boot last long. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend this process to boots you wear for everyday normally dry conditions, even if they occasionally stomp through a puddle briefly.
Thanks for sharing!
awesome video
Its definetely a like! Thanks!
Obenauf's HD LP works great for me!
Very cool video
Glad you enjoyed it
With Waxing your boots like this, how often do you need to clean them with saddles soap, and condition them? And after a wash and condition is it recommended to wax them again? Thanks
I made my own water resistant leather conditioner. Coconut oil and bee wax.
Same way we have applied snow seal for over 20 years
Does this work with roughout leather?
How long until you need to re-apply? I am from a rainy environment.
Those boots look really amazing! Are the Traveler Boots made in steel toed?
They can be!
Will you still need to do a periodic clean with saddle soap and if so, what would that do to the finish?
If dirt gets into the leather, yes. You'll probably have to add a bit after that.
Interesting! Have not yet tried my heat gun. I’ve used a very low oven to warm both boots and dressing. I’ll have to grab some beeswax and try this. 👍
Oven works, and i found a better option: Food dehydrator! its basically a small low-temp convection oven. I can set temps up to 180F. And the wife doesn't freak lol
@@BrettMonson91 interesting! My wife has a dehydrator... 🙄
Can I do this to a new pair of Nicks???
I have used Filson oil finished wax for 23 years. Goes on easy and conditions and keeps water out. No heat gun required
I use a blow dryer to apply wax on my cowboy boots. I've had to reapply it somewhat frequently. Due to the fact that salt and slush in the winter time dissolves the wax coating fairly quickly.
I assume this will work the same way for rough out lowers on my builder pros?
Sure will!
That’s great! Thanks for this video! Can you tell me if the same method is good for chromexcel leather too?
It could work! Test it first though.
It will destroy all depths of color on Chromexcel.
By adding the wax wouldn't it block the pours from being able to take in the conditioner as well as not allowing the leather to breathe. Just curious. Thank you.
Condition first, then use beeswax to waterproof. Yes, it will block the pores, regardless of what people say.
Would this method work on the builder pro?
I'm curious where OP got his jacket from?
How would the oils get to the leather after applying the wax?
Does this work on rough out?
How does it work with rough out
Should you apply a wax based product to brand new boots before you even wear them ?
can I wax your rough out leather with snow seal? I had been using snow seal as my wax for more than 10 years.
If it works, it works. Our recommendation is Nicks Grease and beeswax though.
Got keen targhee 2 boots size 10 and the last pair lasted almost two years but dryed out and ripped on the left left side and left on one boot and left side of the other boot as well and never put anything on them to keep them from drying out, want to waterproof them even better then they already are and also keep them from drying out but wear them everyday to work in the mud and rain an weedeating grass a good bit what can I do and use to make sure they last this time around lol? Thank you
I wish I could get the traveler boots in black with a kletterlift sole for LEO work.
Sir what is the size of the redwing 877 eyelets?
sno seal works great for me one coat is heavy rub in after heating with hair dryer till fully in,then let cool apply light coat and heat again for shine.
Would love to see this done with some roughout boots to see how it changes the look of the leather,
Good idea!
I am curious about what style of boots that gentleman brought in? Can anyone help me to figure it out?
What would be the difference between using bees wax and mink oil? Which one is better? Also does the bees wax leaves a oily residue in the surface or it feels like the leather is dry but is waterproof?
It feels more dry after soaking in. Definitely recommended over mink oil.
This was really cool to see done. Along the same lines, I'd love a video showing waxed flesh care and re-waxing since I'm considering my next Nick's purchase already 🤣
Sure thing!
Yes, my waxed flesh urban loggers should be coming soon!!!
@@patrickwallen5065 natural or brown?
@@estark1991 brown
@@patrickwallen5065 that is such a beautiful leather I have a pair of charleys coming in that color
If you heated the beeswax in a pot and bushed it on would it be the same effect?
Maybe, we heat the boot as well for it to "drink it in" better.
Would this work at all on roughout parts of the boot
It would!
Grant, you've gotta tell us where that jackets from.
How about putting bees wax on rough out?
Actually just recently discovered Skidmore’s beeswax and they have a good leather water proofing
Made here in my hometown!
Does this affect breathability?
Is this process also recommended with the leather being rough out? also forgive me, but if the wax is waterproofing how is the oil and conditioner goign to make one ounce of difference for the leather? It's just going to sit on top of the wax right as all of the pores of the leather will be clogged with wax?
Likely, you will have to preheat the boot and work it in. Oil and wax mix together pretty good when warmed up
The exact video im looking for, but can i do this on roughout?
Sure can! Just make sure they're clean first!
I wax my roughout boots with neutral shoe polish - I love it. It almost resembles waxed flesh, but the surface is a bit more textured.
I've had best success on rough out with venetian leather balm.
Same process for roughout?
The boys 🤘
Gotta love it!
So would this help quite a bit for protecting the boots from metal dust in a welding shop?
It's more for water but it may help!
Yes, it seals up the fibers to prevent ultra fine dusts from getting down inside and breaking the fibers down. I've also noticed it helps resist scuffing a bit more as well.
What boots where those in the video
How do you keep water out of the screws on logger boots soles? Or are they sealed tight already. I really want to get a pair from you guys but this is the only thing that is deterring me.
They are tightly sealed
How does this compare to a lazier method like Obenauf's?
If the wax makes it waterproof how does the conditioner reach the leather through the wax?
The conditioner is waxed based as well.
Should boots be broken in first or can you do it right out of the box?
As long as the fitment is good, you can do it whenever you'd like!
Amazing Craft and Lore. I ordered a veg tan belt and daaaaammmmm good.
What can I say about Nicks? The best brand around in the PNW and all the USA for tank boots( work Or heritage)
Thanks for the love!
I was wondering if my Craft and Lore belts could be beat. I love it. I want a new work belt, and am considering another c&l
@@nicksboots you got more than love from this guy. You have his life’s cash!!!! Nobody needs as many Nick’s as he has. Lol
@@gqfiend buddy,! You know me well!😉. Come back to IG,!!!🙏🏻
Thanks!
Can this be done with the rough out?
Yes
How significantly is this going to negatively effect boot breathability?
I'd just warm.melt it in a can and apply with a half inch brush. Probably a bit more consistent coverage.
How does the wax effect breathability?
It will!
does this affect the breathability of the boots? and can I waterproof rough out?
It may affect breathability a bit. You can do this to roughout!
@@nicksboots excellent, I ordered a pair of builder pro's and definitely need to make them last.
Hey Grant what jacket are you wearing???
Same, it looks super cool
I'm guessing this would greatly affect the breathability of the leather? Also, it would probably be easier to melt the wax in a double boiler and brush it on.
I think you're right about breath-ability. Also, your method sounds much better. I haven't had good luck with bee's wax for water proofing. It's brittle and tends to break up anywhere there is a great deal of movement. Microcrystaline wax is much better if the goal is strictly to keep water out. The Lone Woodman has a guide to making tin pants where he investigates wax types and that was what he found when applying it to canvas anyways.
Was thinking the same , I just use nikwax myself
@Henry Rs leather is breathable, and waxing/oiling will affect that. Why wax your Gortex boots???? I would recommend Bick 4 or something like that as a preservative. Also, leather oil has been known to hinder Gortex, so I'd be careful with that as well.
Does anyone know where he got that vest? I love that vest.
The vest is from LC King down in Tennessee.
@@craftnlore Ooh I should look in on this. It looks great.
What I wanna know is the jacket Grant wears. Badass
How much price
Sno seal is great stuff
Is this something you would recommend doing to new boots?
It's an option but not for everyone!
@@nicksboots I guess what I'm really asking is, is this process less efficient or helpful if the boots are new, and are there more effective ways to waterproof new boots?
Pro trick heat the wax up in a coffee can or pan and use a small paint brush
🧐 ...genius...
Coffee cans are mDe of plastic these days...
Can this be done with rough out
It sure could!
Incredible video! I used beeswax all the time to lubricate steam valves on my ship, but never really put two and two together for boots.
Big questions: What should be my routine for these boots? Daily cleaning? Weekly oiling/conditioning? Monthly waxing? Do I have to condition before I wax or vice versa (do they effect each other and I should or shouldnt do it at the same time?) I'm basically looking for a practical framework to maintain my boots.
Near the end at 10:30 or so, you say that you still use the conditioner and boot oil. Let's just say my job will test "waterproof", and my boots are subject to exhaust dust (nasty stuff), concentrated industrial chemicals, marine environment in general, and it'll have a heap of oil including diesel. So... this time I want my boots to do better this time around. Given the crew size of 22, there is no onboard cobbler... so I gotta be that guy to at least some extent haha. Thanks for making a video like this and helping me become a little more self sufficient out here!
Hey, concerning your questions about boot care, we have a few videos up on our channel specifically outlining how to clean, condition, and take care of your boots