This video is where I got the idea to use a fuse on the power line. Thanks for that advice. I'm consolizing a 1FZ now and I had a mishap and shorted something out the other day. I kind of panicked because I thought I killed the board, but the fuse saved it. So again, thanks for that. And for doing these videos too. They've been very helpful throughout this project, and in working with electronics in general ^_^
Glad to see you acknowledge that it could've been ESD. Every time I point out that we shouldn't do this stuff on carpet (I do too), people defend it by saying that they've "never had a problem." I always respond with "you mean that you've never had an ESD problem that you know of because it's almost impossible to prove what caused the failure after the fact." Saying they've never even potentially had an ESD problem is like saying that they've never had anything die on them before. Should I interpret that as lack of experience? ;) That's exactly the opposite of the impression they were trying to give!
Hi GadgetUK, I seem to have stumbled on the same problem here - 1P start is whats doing it for me, nothing happens when I press it all of a sudden. Blasted MVS, nothing but problems! I have the same board and followed your method - I am getting the signal to C1(69) and it toggles when I press 1P Start so it looks like I will have to replace the NEO-C1 from one of my donor boards. Will let you know how it goes once I get some Chip quick and thanks a bunch for those videos, they are very very helpful and interesting too.
Hello! I love your videos! I have a MV1C that I would like to consolized but I can't find any video that shows how to do it in this specific model, by any chance do you know one??? Gracias!
Hey there! Fellow British Neo Geo nut here, and I've been very interested in your videos. I ordered an MV-1B board a few days ago and I'm planning to consolize it. I'm not too sure what PSU to use with my board, but I really like the size of the one you're using in this video as it looks a lot more appealing than a bulky PC PSU. XD Any chance you could link me to a place where I could get one? :) Would really appreciate the help! Good luck with your MVS mod man, it's looking great so far!
Hi, thanks for watching and subscribing =) I will check out some of your vids! You need something like this for 5v:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YT-0508-PSU-2-5-2-1-5V-8A-AC-DC-Desktop-Power-Supply-/190895774809?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_PowerAdaptors_SM&hash=item2c72465c59#ht_2646wt_1161 It's worth noting that on the MV-1FZ that I have it needs +5v and +12v and in order to just use +5v I had to do a modification to the audio circuitry to route all power through just the +5v. I am not sure if you need to do that with the MV-1B or not, it's worth posting on the neo-geo forums first to check if you need to do a similar mod etc.
GadgetUK164 I ended up getting a Ault SC200 PSU and it seems like other people have used the same power supply for Neo Geo consoles. It dose both 5V and 12V, and says: +5V/4.0A and +12/1.0A Looking at my MV-1B manual, it says I need +5V/3.0A and +12/1.0A Will that extra amp of current coming out of the PSU mess my board up? Or will the board not draw that much? Sorry to ask, but I can pretty much get cracking with my consolization when I get this power stuff sorted haha! Hope you can get that player 2 start button working >.
Hi, glad you've got a board and PSU =) The extra amp isnt anything to worry about, it just means the MV-1B won't stress your PSU out. I doubt the MV-1B draws more than 1.3 amp on the 5v line, and probably < 1 amp on the 12 volt line. What is important is to check that the PSU is outputting 5v and 12v. If you've got a good branded PSU like I think you have you should be OK. The cheap one I ordered from EBAY outputs 5.5v with no load, which could damage some of the old chips, but measured under load its 5.17v, which drops to around 5.05v when it settles after 4 or 5 minutes. The other mod I will be doing to mine is adding a little LED display to show the +5v voltage level - to use as a dual purpose power indicator and a warning to me if voltage starts to go high. They are around £5 on EBAY. Should get a new NEO-C1 chip onto my board sometime this week hopefully. Just waiting for a second spares board to arrive. I decided that I love the MVS so much that I should keep a 2nd fully working MVS in the loft. At £50 it's probably worth it. Spares board I am waiting for cost me £20 which isn't too bad - just hoping the NEO-C1 chip works on it.
Fantastic! :D Thanks for the info! I'm eagerly awaiting your finished MVS system, it sounds pretty hardcore haha. I'll send you pics of mine too when it's done! Would love to see your MVS collection too in a future video! :) Mine should end up looking something roughly like this: i.imgur.com/X2dr4uD.png
Thanks, yes, I got a board from SupremeJudge (Xian Xi), but I've worked out I can fix that board lol. I am going to program a PIC micro controller to fix this problem, then just attach the 12 or so wires to the NEO-C1 chip.
I gotta Street Fighter Double Impact PCB that has a faulty surface mount chip on it. How easy do you remove SMC's, have you got a special technique. I am not very good at things that small.
Check out this video I did:- You can remove chips easily with chipquik:- SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) NEO-C1 Controller Input Repair The chipquik solder has a lower melting point so once you've put some all the way around the chip and go around the chip several times with the iron - either clockwise or anti clockwise, you will find the chip can lift off easily as I've shown in that vid above. It's also worth using a desoldering pump to remove the solder from the old chip and the board when you've removed the faulty chip - collect it all in your soldering iron tray, then use the iron to melt it all into one blob. You can then reuse that chipquik later for another repair etc. Also see this video below on how to reflow the solder, the same technique can be used to solder them on - ie. use blu-tac or similar to hold the new chip in place - so pin 1 is aligned correctly (the dot to 1 on the PCB), and then solder just the 4 corner points. Inspect the chip with magnifying glass to ensure the pins are all correctly aligned. Then add solder to the pins as you drag across - don't use too much solder but don't worry if many pins are bridged with solder - when I do it most of them are joined. Then see this video:- SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ Consolization Part 4 (MVS CMVS) + Willem EPROM Programmer See the part where I tidy up the solder? That's the same technique for reflowing the new chip. When you use that type of flux (some comes with the chipquik, not a lot but you need hardly any on each side). Once fluxed, drag the iron tip over the pins slowly and you will find that the solder evens out really nicely. If you've still got bridged pins or too much solder use the solder wick (as shown there) to remove some solder, then try dragging over the pins again, and add a little more flux if required. Finally, check with magnifier, and check continuity between pins with multimeter to make sure that pins next to each other aren't shorted. If you take your time, make sure you have chipquik, flux (comes with it, use sparingly), desoldering braid / wick, 15w soldering iron, something to lift the chip when the chipquik is still molten on each side - just something fine and pointy will do to lift one corner. Just take your time and it's easy work.
GadgetUK164 Also, if its only soldered on two sides (ie. dual flat pack etc), then you should see this video (below) for removal without chipquik. It's unorthodox, but if you are very very slow and take your time, ie. heat pin sufficiently before lifting very very slowly with a pin or something. You can easily lift pins from one side, then the other. Alterntively you can cut pins on the old chip using a sharp knife, but you have to be VERY careful not to slip through the pins and hit the board with the knife or you will end up having to do loads of wires everywhere to repair damaged you inflict on the board. Another similar way which I sometimes use is to heat the entire side of one of the 2 sides (for example on an SRAM chip where there might be 12 / 14 pins on each side of the chip. Heat that one side with extra solder, and use something to lever one side of the chip up - but in order to do this you have to have all pins on one side joined with solder and heated, so that all pins on that side are loose. Then levering very slowly (no force required, you will know because the chip will just lift on one side). That is the most risky method. The safest way is the chipquik method. SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) Repair Part 1 (Backup RAM) SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) Repair Part 2 (Backup RAM)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is where I got the idea to use a fuse on the power line. Thanks for that advice. I'm consolizing a 1FZ now and I had a mishap and shorted something out the other day. I kind of panicked because I thought I killed the board, but the fuse saved it. So again, thanks for that. And for doing these videos too. They've been very helpful throughout this project, and in working with electronics in general ^_^
Thanks =) No problem, glad you used a fuse!! Always better to be safe than sorry!
Glad to see you acknowledge that it could've been ESD. Every time I point out that we shouldn't do this stuff on carpet (I do too), people defend it by saying that they've "never had a problem." I always respond with "you mean that you've never had an ESD problem that you know of because it's almost impossible to prove what caused the failure after the fact." Saying they've never even potentially had an ESD problem is like saying that they've never had anything die on them before. Should I interpret that as lack of experience? ;) That's exactly the opposite of the impression they were trying to give!
Boa noite tenho Uma placa igual essa de onde posso tirar o som com Uma qualidade melhor
Hi GadgetUK, I seem to have stumbled on the same problem here - 1P start is whats doing it for me, nothing happens when I press it all of a sudden. Blasted MVS, nothing but problems! I have the same board and followed your method - I am getting the signal to C1(69) and it toggles when I press 1P Start so it looks like I will have to replace the NEO-C1 from one of my donor boards. Will let you know how it goes once I get some Chip quick and thanks a bunch for those videos, they are very very helpful and interesting too.
jkage198 No problem! Just take your time, the worst thing you can do is rush with a chip like this.
Hello!
I love your videos!
I have a MV1C that I would like to consolized but I can't find any video that shows how to do it in this specific model, by any chance do you know one??? Gracias!
Hi, I don't know about any videos for the MV1C but there's a guide here:-
www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/cmvs.html
Thanks for the nice comment by the way =) And thanks for watching!! =D
Thank you!
You're welcome =) Thanks for watching and commenting! Let me know how you get on the with the MV1C =)
Hey there! Fellow British Neo Geo nut here, and I've been very interested in your videos. I ordered an MV-1B board a few days ago and I'm planning to consolize it.
I'm not too sure what PSU to use with my board, but I really like the size of the one you're using in this video as it looks a lot more appealing than a bulky PC PSU. XD
Any chance you could link me to a place where I could get one? :)
Would really appreciate the help!
Good luck with your MVS mod
man, it's looking great so far!
Hi, thanks for watching and subscribing =) I will check out some of your vids!
You need something like this for 5v:-
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YT-0508-PSU-2-5-2-1-5V-8A-AC-DC-Desktop-Power-Supply-/190895774809?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_PowerAdaptors_SM&hash=item2c72465c59#ht_2646wt_1161
It's worth noting that on the MV-1FZ that I have it needs +5v and +12v and in order to just use +5v I had to do a modification to the audio circuitry to route all power through just the +5v. I am not sure if you need to do that with the MV-1B or not, it's worth posting on the neo-geo forums first to check if you need to do a similar mod etc.
GadgetUK164
I ended up getting a Ault SC200 PSU and it seems like other people have used the same power supply for Neo Geo consoles. It dose both 5V and 12V, and says:
+5V/4.0A and +12/1.0A
Looking at my MV-1B manual, it says I need +5V/3.0A and +12/1.0A
Will that extra amp of current coming out of the PSU mess my board up? Or will the board not draw that much?
Sorry to ask, but I can pretty much get cracking with my consolization when I get this power stuff sorted haha!
Hope you can get that player 2 start button working >.
Hi, glad you've got a board and PSU =) The extra amp isnt anything to worry about, it just means the MV-1B won't stress your PSU out. I doubt the MV-1B draws more than 1.3 amp on the 5v line, and probably < 1 amp on the 12 volt line.
What is important is to check that the PSU is outputting 5v and 12v. If you've got a good branded PSU like I think you have you should be OK. The cheap one I ordered from EBAY outputs 5.5v with no load, which could damage some of the old chips, but measured under load its 5.17v, which drops to around 5.05v when it settles after 4 or 5 minutes.
The other mod I will be doing to mine is adding a little LED display to show the +5v voltage level - to use as a dual purpose power indicator and a warning to me if voltage starts to go high. They are around £5 on EBAY.
Should get a new NEO-C1 chip onto my board sometime this week hopefully. Just waiting for a second spares board to arrive. I decided that I love the MVS so much that I should keep a 2nd fully working MVS in the loft. At £50 it's probably worth it. Spares board I am waiting for cost me £20 which isn't too bad - just hoping the NEO-C1 chip works on it.
Fantastic! :D Thanks for the info! I'm eagerly awaiting your finished MVS system, it sounds pretty hardcore haha. I'll send you pics of mine too when it's done! Would love to see your MVS collection too in a future video! :)
Mine should end up looking something roughly like this: i.imgur.com/X2dr4uD.png
Get on Jamma+ mate, you can pick up a faulty one for about £15 to fix this on
Thanks, yes, I got a board from SupremeJudge (Xian Xi), but I've worked out I can fix that board lol. I am going to program a PIC micro controller to fix this problem, then just attach the 12 or so wires to the NEO-C1 chip.
I gotta Street Fighter Double Impact PCB that has a faulty surface mount chip on it. How easy do you remove SMC's, have you got a special technique. I am not very good at things that small.
Check out this video I did:- You can remove chips easily with chipquik:-
SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) NEO-C1 Controller Input Repair
The chipquik solder has a lower melting point so once you've put some all the way around the chip and go around the chip several times with the iron - either clockwise or anti clockwise, you will find the chip can lift off easily as I've shown in that vid above.
It's also worth using a desoldering pump to remove the solder from the old chip and the board when you've removed the faulty chip - collect it all in your soldering iron tray, then use the iron to melt it all into one blob. You can then reuse that chipquik later for another repair etc.
Also see this video below on how to reflow the solder, the same technique can be used to solder them on - ie. use blu-tac or similar to hold the new chip in place - so pin 1 is aligned correctly (the dot to 1 on the PCB), and then solder just the 4 corner points. Inspect the chip with magnifying glass to ensure the pins are all correctly aligned. Then add solder to the pins as you drag across - don't use too much solder but don't worry if many pins are bridged with solder - when I do it most of them are joined.
Then see this video:-
SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ Consolization Part 4 (MVS CMVS) + Willem EPROM Programmer
See the part where I tidy up the solder? That's the same technique for reflowing the new chip. When you use that type of flux (some comes with the chipquik, not a lot but you need hardly any on each side). Once fluxed, drag the iron tip over the pins slowly and you will find that the solder evens out really nicely. If you've still got bridged pins or too much solder use the solder wick (as shown there) to remove some solder, then try dragging over the pins again, and add a little more flux if required.
Finally, check with magnifier, and check continuity between pins with multimeter to make sure that pins next to each other aren't shorted.
If you take your time, make sure you have chipquik, flux (comes with it, use sparingly), desoldering braid / wick, 15w soldering iron, something to lift the chip when the chipquik is still molten on each side - just something fine and pointy will do to lift one corner. Just take your time and it's easy work.
GadgetUK164
Also, if its only soldered on two sides (ie. dual flat pack etc), then you should see this video (below) for removal without chipquik. It's unorthodox, but if you are very very slow and take your time, ie. heat pin sufficiently before lifting very very slowly with a pin or something. You can easily lift pins from one side, then the other. Alterntively you can cut pins on the old chip using a sharp knife, but you have to be VERY careful not to slip through the pins and hit the board with the knife or you will end up having to do loads of wires everywhere to repair damaged you inflict on the board. Another similar way which I sometimes use is to heat the entire side of one of the 2 sides (for example on an SRAM chip where there might be 12 / 14 pins on each side of the chip. Heat that one side with extra solder, and use something to lever one side of the chip up - but in order to do this you have to have all pins on one side joined with solder and heated, so that all pins on that side are loose. Then levering very slowly (no force required, you will know because the chip will just lift on one side). That is the most risky method. The safest way is the chipquik method.
SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) Repair Part 1 (Backup RAM)
SNK Neo Geo MV-1FZ (MVS) Repair Part 2 (Backup RAM)