From my personal collection. My Craftsman 10 Inch Tine Width Cultivator with a 2-Cycle 2 hp Tecumseh Engine (m/n: 143.002072) with a 24:1 Gas Mix Ratio
I have the same little tiller. It's not starting, and there's fuel dripping from below the carb. Not a major drip but I'd guess that a part of the problem as to why it's not starting. By now it most likely needs carb work. When you pulled the carb on your tiller, how'd you do it? Hope to hear back from you....
I have this same model but I can't figure out how the throttle cable actually attaches to the Carburator. on mine when you pull on the throttle handle the arm is moving back and forth but it's not attahced to the throttle disc in the carburator. Not sure if I need a spring or what and the manuel I have doesn't show this at all.
James, if you find the right carb, please send me an email with the ordering instructions. I removed the carb and cleaned but will run until the gas I put in the cyclinder burns out , gas is getting to the carb from the tank but not to the engine, thank you.
The spring that I questioned is the one that connects the throttle cable to the long plastic piece that acts as the governor. opening and closing the butterfly. Sadly, the spring that's on the throttle shaft was not connected, so not pushing the butterfly back closed when the throttle is pushed to low speed. I did some jury-rigging and got the butterfly to open and close when I pull the throttle lever. So that part is solved. I even took the carburetor apart again, giving it a thorough cleaning again. It still will not start. I'll check the pressure at the plug hole tomorrow afternoon after work. Thanks for the continued help. BTW, I had ordered a new ignition coil last week from eBay, so i'll replace it as well when it arrives. But I don't think that it's bad. Could be weak, I suppose. I did see a a spark on my homemade sparkplug tester.
I was given this cultivator, not running,and with no history. I've cleaned the carburetor and installed a new carburator kit. I changed the plug, It will not start. I have a spark plug tester, and am getting fire through the plug wire. I made the adjustment on the mixture adjustment screw, as described on page 17 of the owners manual, while cleaning the carburetor. The fuel tank and plastic fuel line is clean and free from trash and blockage. There is no blockage between the tank and into the carburator. I verified fuel flow to the fuel intake port, and also from the intake port into the chamber with the needle valve assembly. All is clear. Any ideas?
Do you have a video on putting the tank on? I have one similar and can't put a new tank on. All part numbers match but holes are not lining up on the carb stud.
Great video! Can you show a clear photo or video of both the idle speed and mixture adjustment screw, please? My husband is trying to repair one of these things, and is having a hard time determining which screw is which. Thank you!
I own that same roto tiller. Should the idle screw or the low speed mixture screw be set to the tines do not rotate when the engine idles? Would it be ok to use a leaner fuel/oil mixture in the engine like 32:1; 40:1 or 50:1?
Do you have a video on how the throttle is linked to the carburetor? I found this old unit with the pull string and spring broken. I fixed that and cleaned up the gummed up carburetor and have got it to start. The problem is I cannot understand how the throttle cable is linked to the carburetor. I put a wire and connected it but the problem is the throttle is working in reverse - revs up when throttle is not pressed and goes to idle when the throttle is pressed. Exactly opposite of what should be happening. I just cannot figure out how to fix it correctly. It is possible I am missing a linkage. Would it be possible for you to help by either posting a video showing the linkages or some photographs to show how it is put together. Would really appreciate some help. Thanks!
Have you ever pulled the engine off to inspect the clutch? My clutch stopped working, I inspected it but cannot find any specs for thickness or diameters, is there clutch material on the clutch plates or are they steel against steel? Any info would be helpful. (It's just 4 bolts on underside of engine)
I found a photo of the replacement rotor and found the existing one to be OK based on measurements from the photo and physical condition of the rotor. I took apart the transmission and found the brass drive gear was stripped away from the steel tine shaft. It is a very flimsy design, the teeth in the soft brass are very tiny and the grooves in the steel barely extend above the surface of the rest of the shaft. The replacement part is $67 at Amazon.com under Murray Model F1016-80, part 56159MA. I am considering cutting a keyway in the existing one rather than paying that much for a crap original replacement. I figure a steel key plus some JB weld should hold it. If anyone is interested please let me know and I will post my progress under a new thread.
I have the same tiller. I cleaned the carburetor. It starts now but could you show me a picture of the the throttle cable . I lost the. spring that connects to the throttle cable. can not same to see where it is connected to. Thanks
Also, is there a small spring on the small plate where the throttle shaft (#1 on the parts list) contacts the Idle Speed Screw (17) ? Or was the one on my engine added by a previous back yard mechanic? There is was one on my engine, but not one in the picture, and I cannot determine where it would connect to the engine. It looks to me that the Throttle shaft has it's own return spring on the shaft itself, making any other outside spring not necessary. is that butterfly valve normally open or normally closed?
Timing could be off or low compression. Take the flywheel off and see if the key is sheered. The butterfly should remain closed until throttle is applied.
+Alec Ulm's Busted Knuckles Alec, What do you mean..."if the key is sheared"? Does that mean just see if the flywheel turns moves the piston? I had done that, and also put a screwdriver into the plug hole. The piston is moving as I hoped. Am I wrong in thinkin that getting a spark in the plug tester tells me that the flywheel key is okay? What about low compression. Do is that tested? How about the other question. Is there a small spring attached to the small plate on the end of the throttle shaft (the one that the butterfly is attached to inside)? In otherwords, is there a visible spring on that spring that stretches to another place on the engine, like most larger carburators have? Mine has one, but I don't think it is supposed to be there. Now there is a spring on the shaft, but it does not seem to be pulling the throttle shaft either way. So I figure that a previous mechanic attached an outside spring to pull that butterfly closed, as you indicated.
+Joe Zorn I will have to look into that spring. But as far as timing goes, if the key is sheared it will usually still crank the piston but the spark won't be there when it is needed , instead to early or late. Compression, if you don't have a gauge, take the plug out ,MAKE SURE THE KILL SWITCH IS OFF SO YOU DONT GET ZAPPED, and place your finger over the hole and have somebody pull the cord. If you can't keep the air in your good.
I have a Dynamark the same to this one, wouldn't start after sitting for a couple years. I removed the carb to clean it and put everything back together but apparently didn't get the governor spring put back on right. It just runs now at full throttle. If anyone has a photo on how this goes together it would be much appreciated. Thanks
Sorry, no I don't have a vid for the restring task. I just did it again the other day but I didn't make a vid because idont have a way to upload right now.
I have the same little tiller. It's not starting, and there's fuel dripping from below the carb. Not a major drip but I'd guess that a part of the problem as to why it's not starting. By now it most likely needs carb work. When you pulled the carb on your tiller, how'd you do it? Hope to hear back from you....
How do you remove the blades to get to the grease fitting
Sorry I finally stopped looking.gonna junk it.
Please make a video how to clean the Carburetor or replace. Thanks
I have this same model but I can't figure out how the throttle cable actually attaches to the Carburator. on
mine when you pull on the throttle handle the arm is moving back and forth but it's not attahced to the throttle disc in the carburator. Not sure if I need a spring or what and the manuel I have doesn't show this at all.
There's a spring between the two. Mine is all bent up and I'm looking for a replacement. I'll let you know if I find anything!
How do I find a carburetor for looked on Amazon nothing my name is shawn how lod is it
Do you have a video on replacing the recoil rope?
where to find a carb for this model?
James, if you find the right carb, please send me an email with the ordering instructions. I removed the carb and cleaned but will run until the gas I put in the cyclinder burns out , gas is getting to the carb from the tank but not to the engine, thank you.
The spring that I questioned is the one that connects the throttle cable to the long plastic piece that acts as the governor. opening and closing the butterfly. Sadly, the spring that's on the throttle shaft was not connected, so not pushing the butterfly back closed when the throttle is pushed to low speed. I did some jury-rigging and got the butterfly to open and close when I pull the throttle lever. So that part is solved. I even took the carburetor apart again, giving it a thorough cleaning again. It still will not start. I'll check the pressure at the plug hole tomorrow afternoon after work. Thanks for the continued help. BTW, I had ordered a new ignition coil last week from eBay, so i'll replace it as well when it arrives. But I don't think that it's bad. Could be weak, I suppose. I did see a a spark on my homemade sparkplug tester.
Joe Zorn I’m stuck with the issue you had now. I’ve tried everything. My problem is when I give it throttle it won’t close back up any suggestions?
I got shocked before by the spark plug wire on this same tiller
nice tiller, love to the old 2 strokes running.
I have one like this question there's a little linkage under carburetor does it needs a wire to control throttle??
Hi, would you senda video showing the spring attachment and how to engage the throtle. I can not find the manual anywhere that shows the diagram. tx
maher jordan do you have a photo of the Carb installation. Can't get mine back together. Interference with Vane arm.
It was nice to hear it run, not for 6:39min. I waiting for you till some dirt I wanted to see it work.
I was given this cultivator, not running,and with no history. I've cleaned the carburetor and installed a new carburator kit. I changed the plug, It will not start. I have a spark plug tester, and am getting fire through the plug wire. I made the adjustment on the mixture adjustment screw, as described on page 17 of the owners manual, while cleaning the carburetor. The fuel tank and plastic fuel line is clean and free from trash and blockage. There is no blockage between the tank and into the carburator. I verified fuel flow to the fuel intake port, and also from the intake port into the chamber with the needle valve assembly. All is clear. Any ideas?
+Joe Zorn mudbug000@gmail.com
Do you have a video on putting the tank on? I have one similar and can't put a new tank on. All part numbers match but holes are not lining up on the carb stud.
Great video! Can you show a clear photo or video of both the idle speed and mixture adjustment screw, please? My husband is trying to repair one of these things, and is having a hard time determining which screw is which. Thank you!
Do you have a pic of how the carb is mounted. The butter fly idler on mine hits the handle
I've got one like that it's a great machine I love those Tecumseh engines
I have the same machine, its just a Murry brand.
Better than ten years old and still starts and runs great. I haven't done anything to it.
I own that same roto tiller. Should the idle screw or the low speed mixture screw be set to the tines do not rotate when the engine idles? Would it be ok to use a leaner fuel/oil mixture in the engine like 32:1; 40:1 or 50:1?
Do you have any pics. On the governor spring? What does it connect to?
Do you have a video on how the throttle is linked to the carburetor? I found this old unit with the pull string and spring broken. I fixed that and cleaned up the gummed up carburetor and have got it to start. The problem is I cannot understand how the throttle cable is linked to the carburetor. I put a wire and connected it but the problem is the throttle is working in reverse - revs up when throttle is not pressed and goes to idle when the throttle is pressed. Exactly opposite of what should be happening.
I just cannot figure out how to fix it correctly. It is possible I am missing a linkage.
Would it be possible for you to help by either posting a video showing the linkages or some photographs to show how it is put together.
Would really appreciate some help. Thanks!
I have a leak in the fuel line I believe. How do you replace that?
Hi Can the two outer tines be taken off to cut a narrower swath?
Have you ever pulled the engine off to inspect the clutch? My clutch stopped working, I inspected it but cannot find any specs for thickness or diameters, is there clutch material on the clutch plates or are they steel against steel? Any info would be helpful. (It's just 4 bolts on underside of engine)
I found a photo of the replacement rotor and found the existing one to be OK based on measurements from the photo and physical condition of the rotor. I took apart the transmission and found the brass drive gear was stripped away from the steel tine shaft. It is a very flimsy design, the teeth in the soft brass are very tiny and the grooves in the steel barely extend above the surface of the rest of the shaft. The replacement part is $67 at Amazon.com under Murray Model F1016-80, part 56159MA. I am considering cutting a keyway in the existing one rather than paying that much for a crap original replacement. I figure a steel key plus some JB weld should hold it. If anyone is interested please let me know and I will post my progress under a new thread.
Cral Dogman hi there having the same problem with mine i know your post is old but was curious how it worked out for you
Hi,what kind of pre mix oil do you use,any special kind,i just acquired one and need to find some oil,ok thanks
I have the same tiller. I cleaned the carburetor. It starts now but could you show me a picture of the the throttle cable . I lost the. spring that connects to the throttle cable. can not same to see where it is connected to. Thanks
How do you get the carb off ?
Do you have to do oil changes on that cultivator?
No it a 2 cycle, oil is mixed with the gas. No oil changes needed.
Also, is there a small spring on the small plate where the throttle shaft (#1 on the parts list) contacts the Idle Speed Screw (17) ? Or was the one on my engine added by a previous back yard mechanic? There is was one on my engine, but not one in the picture, and I cannot determine where it would connect to the engine. It looks to me that the Throttle shaft has it's own return spring on the shaft itself, making any other outside spring not necessary. is that butterfly valve normally open or normally closed?
+Joe Zorn mudbug000@gmail.com
Timing could be off or low compression. Take the flywheel off and see if the key is sheered. The butterfly should remain closed until throttle is applied.
+Alec Ulm's Busted Knuckles Alec, What do you mean..."if the key is sheared"? Does that mean just see if the flywheel turns moves the piston? I had done that, and also put a screwdriver into the plug hole. The piston is moving as I hoped. Am I wrong in thinkin that getting a spark in the plug tester tells me that the flywheel key is okay? What about low compression. Do is that tested? How about the other question. Is there a small spring attached to the small plate on the end of the throttle shaft (the one that the butterfly is attached to inside)? In otherwords, is there a visible spring on that spring that stretches to another place on the engine, like most larger carburators have? Mine has one, but I don't think it is supposed to be there. Now there is a spring on the shaft, but it does not seem to be pulling the throttle shaft either way. So I figure that a previous mechanic attached an outside spring to pull that butterfly closed, as you indicated.
+Joe Zorn I will have to look into that spring. But as far as timing goes, if the key is sheared it will usually still crank the piston but the spark won't be there when it is needed , instead to early or late. Compression, if you don't have a gauge, take the plug out ,MAKE SURE THE KILL SWITCH IS OFF SO YOU DONT GET ZAPPED, and place your finger over the hole and have somebody pull the cord. If you can't keep the air in your good.
+Joe Zorn also, take the muffler off and check the spark arrester, it may be clogged, try this first since it's easiest
I have a Dynamark the same to this one, wouldn't start after sitting for a couple years. I removed the carb to clean it and put everything back together but apparently didn't get the governor spring put back on right. It just runs now at full throttle. If anyone has a photo on how this goes together it would be much appreciated. Thanks
Should have showed what you did to fix it
I put the gas up all the was and the air all the way and was running nitro methane and it had it on nos and blew it up lol
say is ther anyway I can get you to allow me too see how and what types of parts are use for carb..what happen we bought new carb but,its assebly
Show me how to clean carb
how much is that worth same exact one
Sorry, no I don't have a vid for the restring task. I just did it again the other day but I didn't make a vid because idont have a way to upload right now.
Do you have to do oil changes on that cultivator?
Its gas oil mixed so no