Make loose-tenon joinery without a Festool Domino
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- "Loose-tenons" don't mean tenons that are loose. And you don't need a $1000 tool to make them!
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Finally a mortise and tenon jig that I can afford and can build myself. That simple video just took all the trepidation out of making those joints. Once my shop is set up I'll be making one. Thank you.
Did you make one?
@@aaronq2627 not yet. But hopefully this winter when I can spend the days in the ( still in progress) shop. Thanks!
Running The Jig through the table saw and making a thin kerf is brilliant. Such a simple way to make it perfect!
Agreed, real clever
Thanks for making the jig part of this simple and straightforward. :)
Sir, you are a genius. This is something I have been looking to build for a while as I can't justify the outlay on a Domino. I look forward to spending the next few days watching your video archive. Thank you and a big hello from the UK!
I have been working with wood since I was a small kid in the 70's alongside my dad in his garage shop. I like that while you have and use the new tech, you also add little ways to make things with the older skills, and less expensive tools. good job, keep it up. I have passed my love of woodworking along to my son, who also watches your videos.
Loose tenon joinery is a very nice option in most cases, I'd also recommend checking the Samurai Carpenters Mortise and Tenon jig for routers, that one is awesome.
Thanks James. I knew how to do the first bit, but the second half making a kerf width dado to keep the fence parallel is the game changer for me! Thanks man!
James, you're the muts nuts. That's awesome in UK English. 😎👏👍✌️
James, one thing I would add, having done a bed recently with lots of loose tenon joints. If your bit chatters because you used the wrong plunging technique and your mortises are a 1/16” too wide, cut thin strips on the saw, then glue the shim and tenon into the mortise. And if your bit chatters as badly as mine, use polyurethane construction adhesive. The glue’s expansion in the joint makes for rock solid joints even though a few mortises were frustratingly out of dimension (1/4” spiral upcut with 2”deep mortises).
My favorite part is leaving the tenon a little shy in the mortise. That's something my perfectionism just won't always let me do, but it sure is nice to have that little movement when you need it!
You ran through that really quickly, a rookie such as myself will have to watch and a few more times and take some notes. Really cool video
Right there with you. I understood the concept easily enough, but the specifics, I'll need to watch it again
I appreciate his conciseness - I can always pause or watch something numerous times. It’s better than having to watch a 30 minute video with 5 minutes of information or worse yet - someone who just plays bad music and doesn’t explain anything at all
I made a similar jig using CA glue for instant adhesion. I saw the technique on NextLevelCarpentry
Many videos about mortise jigs, but this one is most useful ! Great tips in making parallel fence !! Thank you !!
That you so much from "down under" in New Zealand! The video on making a loose tenon joint has made it so clear to me now. I will be using this type of Joinery quite often in the future on various projects. It is really so simple, and cheap, to make up the appropriate jig for the job. Thanks once again. Doug 🤠
I enjoyed this video when it first came out and kept it in the back of my mind to use later. Later arrived yesterday when I used it on a couple of bookcase face frames. Went pretty well, will assemble them starting today. As a woodworker who has been doing this longer than most of the RUclipsrs have been alive I have to say that there is much to be learned from the younger folks in the business. Thank you for the tips and I will continue to keep my eyes open for new ideas.
Giving us all the benefits of your years of experience, it almost makes it feel like we’re cheating. As always, thank you for making our time in the shop all that much better.
If tenon stock can technically be shorter than the mortise length, there would be no real need to round over the ends, right? Thanks for this video! Makes loose tenon joinery a lot less intimidating!
Fantastic, will be trying out a few loose tennons on a project, tennons are super strong👌 just like the dovetail you added on that floating bed on instagram, nice detail only real woodworkers appreciate
Great timing Stumpy! I have been wanting to build a solid core pocket door for our bathroom and with this setup I believe I can use your method! Thanks for posting, always great info!
If you don’t already have a tv show you should. Not that I want you to leave here, you just do a great job and I think you deserve a large audience.
Another brilliant one!
I bought a “hedgehog “ featherboard” after seeing one of your videos, I don’t really like it because you have to really tighten it down before it stays put. I wish it was easier to tighten down and use.
It sounds like the slot in your saw is a little wide. My Sawstop has slightly wider slots and it makes it difficult to attach feather boards. The solution was to put a little tap on the side of the metal piece that goes in the slot. Try it.
Jared, the fix for that is to flare the miter clamp out a bit: With the Hedgehog out of the miter clamp, tighten the knob A LOT. Then loosen the knob again and see if it holds more securely in the miter clamp. If that didn't do the trick, insert the tip of a flat screwdriver into the gap on the miter clamp and give it a twist to flare it out. It doesn't take much so go easy and repeat if necessary. Hope that helps. Brett
@@featherboards1565 I’ll give it a try. All I know is I tighten it down and it’s still loose so then I really crank it down and it finally stays put. Hope this works
Wow! Thank you so much for this amazingly simple to build and to use jig!! I just made my first loose tennon and it feels like a small revolution in my shop 👍👍
In my upcoming project (table base) I will need to fit some loose tennon in an angeld joint (85°).
I am trying to figure out a way, but didn't succeed yet.
If you have an solution how to approach it, I would highly appreciate if you let me know 😊
Greetings from Austria
You’re just a Stud! I don’t know what else to say….?? lol. Your vids up my woodworking game….. so what else am I suppose to say….??! Besides, thx a million!
Supercalifragalisticexpalidocious
This is superb! Very simple, clear. It’s no more intimidating as it seems after watching your video. Thanks a ton!
Neither your subscription form nor your contact email form work on your website. It might prove difficult for you to get new subscribers using these methods. Good luck, though!
🤦 just made my first mortise jig and I realized too late the hole isn't perfectly lined up and centered for the thickness of wood I'm using to build a gate. Im annoyed but it'll still work out 😐 awesome idea using the kerf- thank you so much for sharing
I have a question regarding the master video on building this door but I’m here so what would be the lightest wood species that would be good for the core of an exterior door. Please don’t say oak !!! 😂 Thanks
Thanks for the $1,500.00
This is absolutely awesome! I'm building a table and will likely use this for all of the legs since all of the parts are the same thickness! Thank you!
You should look at a mortise master
Ive come to think of if before but ill apply it when the time comes for me to make my own door
actually ignore my question…just realized you addressed it in very beginning of video😂
Every time I comment I say one thing like "thanks for another excellent video" and that's the sae again this time. So thanks...
Question: if you wanted to do a bit more work, couldn't you also add a piece in the form of a wooden dowel through each side of the mortise-and-tenon joint? And if so, wouldn't this add more security to the joint?
Could you just buy festool's dominos and build a jig to cut for those? This would save the hassle of cutting tendons and eliminate the expense of a festool.
Thank you so much for sharing. It is a great tutorial and tool. I made a modification to the tool to capture saw dust. I cut a channel, the width and thickness of a small crevice tool centered on the back side of the gig that opens on the router guide slot. With my shop vac attached, I do not have to stop to vacuum the sawdust.
Have you had the need to make a mortise deeper than 2 inches. All the upcut bits I have seen have 2 inch cutting surface or less. How do you go deeper if needed?
Thanks for sharing but I have a question left. Should the tenon be made of the same type of wood and how should I deal with the grain of the wood compared with the grain on the tenon ?
Someone at work ask the shop to buy a Festool Domino cutter, they were promptly denied.
What size spiral upcuy do you recommend?
Incredible video James! Clear, succinct, and budget friendly. Have yourself a cold one, you definitely earned it with this one.
What is the cutting length of the upcut spiral bit used? The above link results in several lengths.
Beginner here, but what keeps the router from wanting to wander into the slot of the jig while cutting the mortise?
If the tenons don't need to be as wide as the mortise, why bother and round the edge ? A square tenon will fit in a longer mortise, i'm i missing something ?
Great video thanks for sharing.
That’s way cheaper to test out that the other options.
If the homemade dominos are cut narrower than the mortise, why do they need rounding over at all?
This winter or next year I need to make a coffee table and dining room table.
Thanks this is a mix between a domino and a biscuit with no special tools.
1:06 Why using a bushing instead of a router bit with a bearing?
Why am I now seeing this, great idea 🤠💡👍💡
Can you tell me what is the total length of the up spiral cutting bit please for those dominoes or using
Thanks for another very good, easy to understand tutorial. Keep 'em coming.
Hey, I liked this a lot but at the end you supposed we all know how to make the loose tenons, do you have a video on this? Jon
Even though I have a domino, this is still great because I don’t own the larger one and I wouldn’t need it for most projects, so this is a terrific option. Also; I’ve used tenons to fortify butt joints or add decorative touches. Thanks for sharing - Grand Rapids, MI
Bookmarked because of your newest video
2:04, it is not critical to spell "Parallel" the same way twice.
Thanks bud! Fantastic video!
I need a link to the router that uses the bushing as shown in video.
When would domino need to be used instead of dowel joinery ?
Great Video...way better than spending $1000+ for a Festool Domino tool... Thank you
This is by far the best alternative for the beginner wood worker in place of both the JessEm Pocket Mill Pro and/or Festool Domino. The plunge router can be used for far more applications than either of those two "one trick ponies". I'll be sharing this video!
Excellent video and explanation. When I make my mortise templates, rather than gluing them up like you do, I staple the strips to a blank of 1/2 inch MDF. Then, I use a bearing bit to cut out the hole in the MDF. Pop off my strips, and the template is ready to go. No glue squeeze out, or waiting for it to dry.
Stumpy. I want thank you for all your Master Craftsman Teaching in Basic and other Techniques. I'm going forward in making Projects to Sell. I wish to be successful as yourself, as my example.
This video is perfect -- fantastically good tips, expertly presented. I made two jigs like this to create loose-tenon mortises in a queen bed frame, adding a second fence to enclose the workpieces completely. A wide jig for the leg mortises, and a narrower one for the headboard and footboard rails. It's hard to slide the router bit sideways to cut deep 1/2"-wide mortises in red oak -- especially in end grain. The plunging method is the answer. Thanks for your help, once again. All hail Stumpy Nubs!
Excellent video! Succinctly and thoroughly explained. Nice work, James. Scott
You're "Always Amazing" James. Thank you for this as you saved me a lot of money!!! Peace out!
Thank you for another informative video that explains how I can rectify a problem I have. As an old (71 years) Marine Ordnance-man I am always amused by the Stumpy Nubs nick-name. We sometimes referred to our less cautious fellow ordnance brothers as One-eyed, Stumpy, limping guy. The really careless brethren were simply referred to in the past tense. Semper Fidelis.
I had to rewatch the part of placing the jig fence like 6 times before I got it. As usual I was overthinking it. Brilliant design and I can’t wait to apply this loose tenon joinery for the next doors I build. Sure sounds easier than the rail and style method on the shaper I did plus dowels to make some solid oak doors a few years ago. 😉
Simple easy to use jig. As I've gotten more in to more than just home repair/Reno and actual woodworking builds, staying mostly away from pocket hole joinery but not having the time to do mortise/tenon, I've used beech dowel joinery a lot. However I'd like to try using this technique but am unsure of how well or the best approach when it comes to this technique for making mortises in the ends of thin boards such as a 1×2 rail into the stile of a cabinet or table leg. Any suggestions?
I have the hedgehog feather board but the only limitations I find is that it has a lot less contact & therefore support against a piece vs my traditional feather boards so bot as good for router table work.
The only other limitation is a reflection on my affordable but otherwise good quality job site Dewalt table saw as the guide slot is a few hundredths inch too wide >0.75" for any standard screw down guide. As much as it would have to constantly be put on/taken off , I suppose 4 or 5 strips of tape could "solve" this vs making my own from hardwood & V-notch slot router bit. Any suggestions in this regard? Oak seems too split too easily along the grain but generic maple seems too stiff - would you be able to suggest a better suited species of wood or an entirely different approach all together? Thanks!
That's actually a fantastic tip! 😃
Thanks a lot, dude!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
It seems to me that if the top surface of the jig is 1/2" plywood and you want to make a 3/4" deep mortise, then you'd need a bit that has a cutting length of 1 1/4". That might tough to find with a 1/4" shank, so you probably won't be able to use this technique with your trim router.
Would it be accurate to say you would need a jig for different thickness boards? Ex: 1 1/12" stock , 1" stock and such?
This particular jig is custom built for the project, yes. But you could build an adjustable jig if you wanted to spend the time.
I have been using a hollow chisel mortise and table saw for years. I gotta give this a try. Next project is restroom wainscoting. Perfect opportunity. Thx.
Nice method. I plan to check out your magazine soon as you provide extremely valuable content. Keep it up!
Hello would this technique and jig work for breadboards if you make a large mortison on the outer breadboards expansion?
hi there ,greetings from the westcountry (England) ,great video , perfect little jig , keep up the good work
That's awesome!!!! Thank you so much for for offering another scenario that doesn't include a $1500 domino jointer
Thank you for this video.. about to embark on a baby crib build and am weighing this vs dowels.
Thinking actually making slat tenons on saw since the wood dimensions are thin. Great work your doing !!
Thanks Stumpy...
I just learned something.
Have a 🍺 on me.
Yeah but I had wanted to buy a biscuit joiner for a table top project and I’ll just do this instead. How am I going to keep justifying new tools?
The one downside to this method is that the jig/bushing eats up some of your bit length. This is only a problem if you are cutting a deep mortise that uses the whole length of the bit and that’s something I often do; cutting 2” deep mortises with a 3” OL bit. For that task I use a double sided edge guide custom base plate so I can get the collet nearly touching the work surface if I want to.
I really like your work. i just started in woodworking this last year or two but since I started I've started I have emassed almost all the tools I think will be needed for the type of woodwork that i plan on doing. So far I have made an enclosure for my hot tub, an old fashion folding leaf table for my wife and a bench seat for our kitchens bay window dinning nook. Much to the thanks of videos like yours, keep them coming and thanks for the help.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to help all of us DIYers that can not afford $1,000 + for the other loose tenon jig. I really like the simplicity of this jig. I am going to be building a few cabinets soon and will be using this jig for the joinery.
This is great tip. Thank you
Thank you very much. Great to learn new ways of doing things without having to spend heaps of money!
Nice video, and good work, but it also seems to really exemplify why I think if you are doing more than a couple tenons a year, the domino is really worth it, especially if you have a smaller shop and don't have room to leave countless jigs lying around.
I love loose tenons and cut the mortises in various ways. Your quick jig is a smart method. That said, related to your intro comments, here's an off-topic suggestion to facilitate perfect fit when using a tenoning jig to make traditional tenons on the table saw: Cut both cheeks simultaneously by using two blades with a carefully sized spacer mounted between them. The spacer dictates the tenon thickness, eliminating that part of the setup hassle. (Of course, this method requires that you take care in centering the tenon on the thickness of the work piece, if required.)
Mortise & loose tenon has literally been around since the pyramids. Also very popular with the Greeks and Romans for things like ship building.
Hi James, this is brilliant! I already have a biscuit joiner, dowelling jig and soon I'll be making loose tenons without the expense of the Festool machine. Oh happy day! Thanks always for sharing, off to visit the sponsor. It is too bad there's not a Canadian version of your affiliate link as I don't think the amazon links add anything to your efforts but I'll visit nonetheless! Thanks for sharing, cheers from BC!
I really like your videos. Although I am mostly a turner these days, I have done my share of flat work. I started in my 20s, if you don't count one year of jr. High shop, and I am now 85. One minor quibble - I wear hearing aids, which work ok, but not as well as real ears. I sometimes miss a few words at the end of your sentences, when you drop the volume of your voice slightly. I can usually get it in context, or repeat a short section at a higher volume. My problem, not yours. It is good to listen to someone who knows what he is talking about, and is very clear in the explanations.
This is a super cool idea! I've been looking for a better system than I have been seeing on RUclips, as they involve time consuming steps. A double mortise and tenon is the perfect solution, and I don't need a biscuit jointer either!
Thanks for sharing with us, lots of good information you’re putting out. Thanks so much.👍👍👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Making the tenons less that full length of the slot (minus just enough to barely fit) makes a joint that can be shock-sheared by an impact in the plane of the length of the mortise and tenon. Also, it allows your pieces to shift while gluing, especially if the tenon is across non-right angle members.
Another Great video and tip!!! Thanks so much for sharing with us,always enjoy your videos!!!w
Stumpy,
I have been racking my brain over loose tenons lately, this solves a lot of the problems I have been trying to figure out.
I plan on getting a Festool Domino at some point, but this is exactly what I need right now!
Now to the shop! Ok not right this second, I don't think my kids or neighbors want me out making saw dust at 5am :)
Excellent video thanks for sharing...🤘🤘
Thank you very much for the awesome jig idea! Subscribed!!!
great info but i have a question. Would you make a couple variations of this for different thicknesses of stock?