Ignition Switch | 1965-1966 Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Bill shows you how to install a Ignition Switch Assembly on your 1965-1966 Mustang.
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If you're having starting issues or your 1965-1966 Mustang shuts off while driving, you might be able to fix this problem by replacing the ignition switch. Bill shows how to install this Ignition Switch Assembly on our Weekend Wrench new project car.
First, you remove the lock cylinder and then separate the ignition switch from the ignition bezel. You'll then remove the plug and replace it with your new ignition switch, and place the switch back into your dash. Total installation takes under an hour.
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Thank you for the video. it has helped. This is not a very easy job, I have read over 50 comments where the assembly would not simply twist and turn and be installed. This part of the job is almost impossible, I have no idea how the factory did thi unless the cluster is removed. This is not easy at all. 2 hours of aligning and pushing and twisting still not installed. You are upside down, things are sharpe inside there. It does not twist easily, you can not see a thing. I am still trying after taking many breaks to watch the video again and again. That s why it has so many views!!!! If they made a switch that simply installed and plugged in I'd buy it! This is going to take a lot of luck and my time to get done.
I was a about to give up trying to get the switch out--I could not get my fat hand back there to apply enough push and twist. Then I thought I 'd try removing the instrument bezel. And there it sat, ready to be plucked out with a flip of the wrist. (Of course, learning how to take off the bezel three months ago is another story.) Anyway, much easier to remove and to install by going from above.
For anyone that doesn't have the key. A lot of those old ignition switches didn't use the tumblers to activate the accessory feature. Find yourself a screwdriver with the same width as the key Stick it as far in as you can then push the pin in, turn the key to accessory, then turn counterclockwise and pull the ignition switch out.
Thank u so much I was looking for this specifically
LOST IGNITION KEY = I was scratching my head trying to figure this one out! Thought I was going to have to replace the entire assembly!!!
I just changed the ignition switch on my '65 Fairlane. This video was very helpful and made the job easy.
Give thanks! Your video helped me get my key cylinder back into the new switch! Great video!
Thank you. This looks similar to my 66 F-100, though the truck switch is left and below the column, likely easier to see and get to than the Mustang. I am having issues starting, not sure if the switch, the solenoid, ground issues, alternator not charging enough, wiring issues or something else. It either starts fine or nothing at all, not even a click.
Great video! I am stuck on the hard part...getting the bezel to lock into the spacer on the dash. Any tips? I tried it alone for about an hour and then my son and I tried for another 1/2 hour and we couldn't get it to lock into place.
This is the "movie" version. In real life, it's a huge PITA. I'm 45 minutes into mine and I still can't get the bezel to release the switch. I've moved the instrument cluster over to get at it a little easier, but still can't get the stupid things apart. It's about to get ugly!
thank you very much this is why i buy from you guys you provide videos and answer questions my mustang is back on the streets thanks to you guys
Great video....I've changed mine in my Early Bronco ('73) over 20 years ago when I was a "flat belly" when I could contort in all ways under the dashboard, etc.....I am now a "flat belly" without the "l", less limber and much less patient....but having done it before I know I can do it again....this video is great and thanks for taking the time.....OBTW, many aftermarket switches are NOT quite right in size so I found NOS which for me was the way to go FoMoCo or Motorcraft....thanks again
thank you for this clear and concise instruction video. Not an easy task; that spring is way too strong for the mounting of the switch. I had to heat mine up to relieve some of the tension, and then it went together well.
Thank you for this video, I could not figure out how to get my 63 Ford Falcon bezel and switch out. Since falcon and mustang pretty much the same, this video work perfectly
You didn't mention that the little ears on the sides of the switch are different sizes, and the bezel/switch will only go together one way. I found that if you push the bezel into the dash so that it's sitting flush, and the push the switch against it and turn, it will go together much easier.
Thanks, someone that actually does it on video. Thank you.
Thank you very very much. The best video for this job out there and I’ve watched them all. BTW.....nice work jacket 😬
Much helpful works with lots of other old cars
Thanks for watching, glad we could help!
You can easily change the lock cylinder, I assume you mean the ignition cylinder though. The only option there is to drill straight through the center of the cylinder and remove it that way which can be a process to get out.
You turn the switch CLOCKWISE to remove. Still informative thanks.
Dude thank you for leaving this comment, I was trying to turn the bezel and getting no where. As soon as I turned the switch clockwise while holding the bezel in place it came right out. THANK YOU!!
Do yourself a favor guys, take the 4 screws off the dash cluster and replace it back from the top...waaaayyy easier than trying to wedge under the dash
Thanks for the compliments Keith, make sure you subscribe!
I can't get it back in. That spring is just way to strong and just well not go back far enough to lock into place. I have been at it for 2 hours now and I still can't get it to work. I have completely destroyed both my shoulder and hand and I'm no closer then when I started. Is there a trick to it? I refuse to believe it's suppose to be this difficult. I have all but given up at this point.
I lost my 🔑 and i need to replace the whole assembly can instill get the switch out?
The tumbler came out just as advertised however I cannot get the bezel to release the switch. I may have to cut it. Are there any suggestions?
LOL, 45 minutes to a hour, took mine out 10 years ago, been using a screwdriver ever since, after looking at this I think one of my biggest problems was compressing the spring while inserting (65F100), I think I will retry it but first collapse the spring & to hold it in that position use wire ties, then after inserting cut the ties
How do you get your hand in there. I removed the courtesy lamp, but with the radio, and the wiper motor, there is no room.
The switch won't release after pushing in the small pin (with the key inserted into the switch). It will turn with the key as you described, but it won't come out like it should. Is there another way to remove the switch, other than drilling it out?
That was a great help. Clear and concise. Thanks
Replaced the wiring harness on my 66 Ford Mustang but having issues with the car not starting.
I switched the wiring from the coil to the oil sending unit I somehow crossed them
Will the key be locked into the cylinder until u reinstall? Do u need to insert the paperclip for installation as well? I have a 65 lincoln and removal was identical but have not been able to inall yet.
I ordered an ignition switch wiring pigtail, but don't see an installation video for that part.....any help?
My tumbler was not in the proper position and now it’s impossible for me to get in correctly
Same
Hello, I am unable to get the bezel to release from the switch. The switch will push in against the spring, and the switch and bezel will turn counter clock wise, but the bezel will not release from the switch. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Ok,. Anyone know how to remove the ignition switch if you don't have the key???
I cant get at mine from the back under the dash. There's way too much stuff in the way. either that or my giant hands are too big. He just reaches up easily and pop...its out.
hey sometimes my mustang doesnt turn on when i turn the key only manually by using a screw driver touching on the solenoid the starter with the cable that goes to the posotive battery and sometimes when i take out the key the car will stay on. any help or advice would be helpful thanks
Hi. I have a 1965 Ford f100 given to me. But I'm having trouble wiring my ignition switch.
They placed an ignition switch from another year and it's not working.
Id like to replace it but the back of the switch is different.
So it's kind of confusing.
I was wondering if it was possible to make a video. It's be a lot of help.
How I remove the ignition switch with out a key?
We appreciate the feedback
Mr. Bill tumas I have a 1965 mustang I lost my key and I want to change my lock cylinder would I be able to?
So with the new ignition switch you get a new key. Does that mean you have one key to start the car and one to open the doors?
Yes, unless your old key tumbler is useable.
Switches and key tumblers use to come separately.
Please help. I have a 68 mustang, just replaced the underdash wire harness. Now the Ignition resistance wire gets really HOT. I've replaced coil, voltage regulator, fairly new solenoid. HELP.
I'd like to know that as well. A wire gets warm but not to melting point. Also, on this video it only has one looped wire not 3 like I have on the back threaded stud. I'm confused. I also have to run wires to the solenoid & a starter button. It doesn't turn on without it.
Not sure if this will help anyone else, but I had zero room from the bottom. I loosened the instrument cluster and changed from the top.
I had to do the same thing and loosen the instrument cluster in order to get enough room to work. I couldn't get it from under the dash, but it was easy with the instrument cluster removed. I had to remove the speedometer cable as well.
Hey Bill, excellent video! But at 3:28 into the video, did you fart?? Hahahaha!!!
Bill I have a 1961-66 truck switch which is the same as a Mustang. It is a new switch and not in the truck. I cannot get the cylinder to go in. Been messing with it for 3 hours and no luck. What position does the slot in the switch need to be in ? (from top 9:00, 10:00, etc) Do I need to put a pin in the hole while trying to slide the tumbler in? HELP!!!!! This has been a big episode of frustration ! I've owned a lot of Fords of different years but have never had this problem before.
Mark Muffs If the bezel and switch are installed in the original location the slot should be on top of the cylinder and should go in just to the left of 12:00
Bill Tumas Thanks Bill. I put a safety pin in the hole and it snapped right in. Never have problems with the older or the newer (two sided 1967-up) but these were always tricky.
Tips: The new spring is almost impossible to compress enough from under the dash: Use the old spring.
A new lock might not come aligned and will not go in regardless of how your key was positioned in the old lock. Use the pick on the new lock to align before trying to install.
Great advice but I still can’t get my cylinder to meet up. This project is a pain in the ass
@@Kasper623 Hope you got it sorted. It was a PITA the first time I did it.
My mustang 1970 grande won't turn on only the fan spin I need help.
What do I do if my key doesn’t turn to the accessory position?
Video is very misleading,can’t get bezel to release from switch,I’ve tried everything
What if you don't have the original key? How are you supposed to remove the tumbler?
Never mind. I see where you said drill it out.
Great video thank you sir.
OK I've got my switch replaced and bezel has off at the top with "start" at 3 o clock like it was but I can't get the lock cylinder to stay in.HELP PLEASE.THANKS MIKE.
Typical CJ Pony, Horrible customer service. See how fast he replys to help you?????
I have 1965 Comet, I just charged my battery. When I went to hook it back up the car try to start. The keys are not in the ignition. I am hooking it up the same way as before and i have never had any issues like this before. could my ignition switch be toast?
Either that or more than likely your starter selenoid might be stuck open
Bill Tumas thanks it was the selenoid.
do you ever find out what was makeing your start up like that becouse my car is doing the same thing
What if the key won't even turn to the accessory position !?! 63 thunderbird
What is the ignition coil for a Ford 1966 Mustang?
Same for 64 F100. Thanks!
Honestly the hardest thing i have done on my car yet, mine just wasn't cooperating xD
What if you don’t have a key tho ?
Hi Bil,
im currently restoring a 64 Fairlane 500 here in Australia. You video on removal of the ignition switch has got me out of a jam, however after turning the key past the accessories, I still cant remove the barell. I have lube the barrel just in case something inside was jamming. The barell has move slightly out (1/8") but that's all.
Do you have any thought on this
Cheers
Craig
Once you go past assy. it should just come out. I would try rocking it in both directions since maybe something is hanging up.
Bill Tumas my 1993 mustang has ignition problem. When I turn the key,the car starts,but key does not return to run position unless you move it. Which do you think it is?
Glenn Runninghawk Could just be a worn cylinder, make sure that the plastic trim isn't holding it up.
I purchased a 66 Mustang without keys....any ideas how to get the tumbler out????
Drilling out the center of the tumbler is probably your best option.
Same process for a 67?
1st I want to say your videos have been very helpful. My question is that my key seems to be loose when i place it into my ignition and now my ignition is stuck on "on" and wont go back to off. Any suggestion? What should I replace (or do you have a video on such problems?). Thanks.
If it is stuck on the on position it can either be the switch or the cylinder itself. I would try removing and then re-installing the cylinder and see if the cylinder has free movement when you remove it
Bill Tumas Thanks for the help. The guy who did the restoration on the dash area did who knows what to my ignition switch. The cylinder was jammed in, so I break the face on it to remove the switch from the bezel. After all was done followed your video to install a new switch, cylinder, and shinny new bezel. The old cylinder is still stuck in the switch so into the trash it goes. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Are you turning the bezle itself?
Usually you just have to turn the switch to release the bezel.
Got this g link system and now fighting the sway bar that's over 500 dollars. Have to find out how thick the sway bar bolt bracket is. Can't get it to fit since mine didn't have the one shown here for the sway bar. Did anyone else have this issue?
What if the key doesn't want to go acc
Good video but what if you don't have the key?
The problem I'm having is the fact that I don't have a key to go in and turn to the acc position. How do u remove it without the key??
Difficult?!? Ya! A couple of tips. Bring a pillow to lay across the seats if you care about your back. Oh, also, disconnect the battery first.
thank uh
I hate you.... I have a 74 Firebird and to replace the ignition lock cylinder I had to take off the steering wheel including about a million little parts including the need for a pressure plate remover and a harmonic balancing tool. We wont even get into how much of a pain it was to replace the ignition switch which was obviously intended to be replaced by someone with the hand size of one of Snow Whites crew. Regardless, great video.
So the only way is to drill directly into where the key goes.
Sounds like you have a bad ignition switch to me.
That is the only way I have ever been able to remove one with the key missing.
How ?
Just a note.... at 1:28 the video "jumps" ahead, hiding exactly how HARD it is to reach and "grab" the back of the switch. Typical for this type of video. There is so much stuff under the dash, it is almost impossible to actually grab it in a position where you can push and turn the switch to release it from the bezel......awkward and no leverage. The same thing is at 3:09 when reinstalling the switch and having to push and turn. Very difficult without removing other components under the dash.
45 to an hour!? should take all of 5-10 minutes!
Guys fingers were in the way
Yeah right, why am I bleeding
This didn’t not help in anyway possible removed the original and looked nothing alike