This is absolutely the most comprehensive vid on youtube for doing this job, thank you for taking the time to make this! you're giving me confidence to tackle my own coaster conversion :) I appreciate you
Extremely grateful to have you making these videos a few steps ahead of us, so that we have such a clear view of whats next. Thank you for your time and effort making these!
You are doing a great job! Im wanting to import a coaster to the USA athough getting it to pass California smog test might actually require registering it out of state. Glad to see you seal the underside of the floor though. Can't wait to see it once your all done. ;-)
Nice work Dyani. I have been doing my Coaster over here in NZ and its awesome to see another women smash it out. I have watched a few RUclipsrs do bus floors and yours by far has been one of the best if not the best I have seen. To my amazement I have seen many folks try to save money by putting in the wrong type of Plywood and in one case seen someone use MDF because it was cheaper..... I have also done the same as you where I have stripped it back to the bare bones so I can fix up the leaks and cracks. Also, maybe instead of using a rubber gasket for the fuel sender hatch you could try PVC Foam tape. Keep up the fabulous build and I look forward to watching your progress.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you are enjoying my videos. Do you have an instagram ot somewhere you share your own bus conversion? I'd love to follow along!
@@AGirlADogandABus No I haven't been doing videos of it, just focusing on doing the project itself. Have only really just started as well. I may start doing some tho not sure yet. Another thing you could use as a gasket, which is probably better is Neoprene rubber sheeting, which is also good for doing the taillight seals to if they leak. A common thing with the coasters. You just have to cut your own gasket of course.
Wow your steel framing under the bus looks so rigid doesn't look like other ones I've seen or did you make it that black colour ? Thanks for the videos they are very helpful
hi a girl a dog and a bus what are your thoughts about this idea - instead of removing the original floor adding a second 6mm floor glued and screwed to the original - that would I think avoid the where to screw it down issues and give you the thickness - I am about to convert my bus and enjoyed you insights - thanks bob
Hi Robert, yes that would work too. I only removed my floor because it had some patches of water damage and I just felt more comfortable replacing it all.
Hi Dani, Love your videos,can ask how you fix your flooring down over the steel plated area over the fuel tank? Is there a small void so the screws miss the tank. Regards Grant.
I can’t remember if you can see it in the video or not but my floor had some pieces of thick wood glued onto that section that the old floor was screwed into and I screwed the ply onto those. I think I put a few screws on the edges but I was very careful to keep looking underneath the bus to make sure I didn’t hit anything.
Thanks Dyani for getting back to me👍I see what you mean ,I did the same but the glue has not held properly in the middle of that area and now makes a noise when walking down the middle of bus, so I thinking of putting very short screws in that just long enough to pick the metal substrate hoping there might be a void above the fuel tank to do this. Sketchy😳
Yeah I was so paranaoid about screwing into the fuel tank or the lines underneath the floor! Are you in any of the coaster groups on Facebook? You could ask there - someone may have more knowledge about whether there is a gap between the tank and the floor there.
I have a picture of the map I drew on my blog here: agirladogandabus.com/toyota-coaster-bus-conversion/installing-the-new-plywood-floor/ You can use it as a general guide but please bear in mind that there may be differences with your coaster, in terms of the actual frame, as well as what is underneath it.
@@AGirlADogandABus Thank you so much Dyani. I'm following your steps and It's really helpful. Now time to take all floor out and purchases plywood. Did you use 2440 x 1220 x 18mm? How many did you used them in the end? Looking forward to next episode.
Yes that is the size I started with. I ended up using 4 sheets of the 18mm and 2 of the 12mm just because of how I cut them and how I joined them on the frame. You could do it using fewer sheets if you run them lengthways instead, but I wanted good support underneath mine so chose to do it across the bus. I have a fair bit of ply left over but I don't mind as I will use it for things inside the bus so won't be wasted.
You know, I honestly can't remember now. I think I used four sheets, but there was a bit left over, because of the way I cut them to fit the frame. I think I explained that in the video. If you laid the sheets lengthways in the main section I think you could get away with three sheets. But you'd have to do the measurements for your bus. It has been so long since I did the floor. Actually, I am just now thinking of redoing it. I am having issues with mould in the marine ply and am not totally happy with it. Considering replacing it with Formply, which is what I used for my first bus. But oh, it is such a massive job. I'm still debating what I will do.
@@AGirlADogandABus I'm thinking of using thermo-lite boards, which is composite material, lighter, mould free, rot free, better thermal insulation, but 3-4 times more expensive than normal ply. This is why I'm trying to see if I can get away with 3 sheets of 12.7mm and one 6.35mm.
@@AGirlADogandABus The 19mm Thermo-lite board requires spacings at 610mm, while the 12.7mm requires spacings between 305mm - 406mm. This is info I've got. It's used for subfloor in some campers I believe.
Yeah I hope not. I did paint them with Penetrol and it is galvanised steel so it should be ok. But I do kinda wish I'd thought to put those pieces on first before I painted the whole frame.
It cost AUD$700 all up. Although because of how I had to cut the sheets, I probably only used about 2/3 of the ply altogether, so some of it will go into other projects.
Your videos are helping me through my bus conversion. Thankyou!
It is great that you are not shortcutting, and are being very thorough.
This is absolutely the most comprehensive vid on youtube for doing this job, thank you for taking the time to make this! you're giving me confidence to tackle my own coaster conversion :) I appreciate you
Oh thank you so much! i try to out as much detail as I can into my videos so I'm glad to hear you find that useful. Thanks for watching!
Extremely grateful to have you making these videos a few steps ahead of us, so that we have such a clear view of whats next. Thank you for your time and effort making these!
Thanks for watching Holly! I'm really glad you are finding them helpful 😊
I totally agree with you the factory floor is thin and you can feel it flex under foot
Good job, Dyani! Excellent containment area for Pepper, by the way.
Girl you are awesome! 💫✊🏼👏
Love that video and love your energy! Thanks for the tips as well xx
I'm really enjoying watching the video's,you;re really talented.thanks
Its cool. You did the great job. I can't wait to see your next video. Thanks for sharing your impressive processing.
You are doing a great job! Im wanting to import a coaster to the USA athough getting it to pass California smog test might actually require registering it out of state. Glad to see you seal the underside of the floor though. Can't wait to see it once your all done. ;-)
That's awesome. I've been considering importing a Coaster from Japan to build on. Thanks for the detailed videos and the dimensions at 27:10 :)
The dimensions may vary sightly between the different models. Mine is a 2005 Australian model
Nice work Dyani. I have been doing my Coaster over here in NZ and its awesome to see another women smash it out. I have watched a few RUclipsrs do bus floors and yours by far has been one of the best if not the best I have seen. To my amazement I have seen many folks try to save money by putting in the wrong type of Plywood and in one case seen someone use MDF because it was cheaper..... I have also done the same as you where I have stripped it back to the bare bones so I can fix up the leaks and cracks.
Also, maybe instead of using a rubber gasket for the fuel sender hatch you could try PVC Foam tape. Keep up the fabulous build and I look forward to watching your progress.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you are enjoying my videos. Do you have an instagram ot somewhere you share your own bus conversion? I'd love to follow along!
@@AGirlADogandABus No I haven't been doing videos of it, just focusing on doing the project itself. Have only really just started as well. I may start doing some tho not sure yet. Another thing you could use as a gasket, which is probably better is Neoprene rubber sheeting, which is also good for doing the taillight seals to if they leak. A common thing with the coasters. You just have to cut your own gasket of course.
Yes that's what I was thinking of using
Looks great Dyani. :)
drop the battery box down and put a external hatch to access the batteries from the side of the bus.
great job!! very inspiring I’m about to do the same
Good job.
What about installing water tanks, hoses and fittings before flooring??
The tanks I am getting are designed to bolt straight up into the floor without needing brackets etc underneath
Wow your steel framing under the bus looks so rigid doesn't look like other ones I've seen or did you make it that black colour ? Thanks for the videos they are very helpful
I painted the subfloor frame. If you watch the video before this one you will see how I treated the frame for rust and then painted it all.
@@AGirlADogandABus absolute legend thank you
hi a girl a dog and a bus what are your thoughts about this idea - instead of removing the original floor adding a second 6mm floor glued and screwed to the original - that would I think avoid the where to screw it down issues and give you the thickness - I am about to convert my bus and enjoyed you insights - thanks bob
Hi Robert, yes that would work too. I only removed my floor because it had some patches of water damage and I just felt more comfortable replacing it all.
Hi Dani,
Love your videos,can ask how you fix your flooring down over the steel plated area over the fuel tank? Is there a small void so the screws miss the tank. Regards Grant.
I can’t remember if you can see it in the video or not but my floor had some pieces of thick wood glued onto that section that the old floor was screwed into and I screwed the ply onto those. I think I put a few screws on the edges but I was very careful to keep looking underneath the bus to make sure I didn’t hit anything.
Thanks Dyani for getting back to me👍I see what you mean ,I did the same but the glue has not held properly in the middle of that area and now makes a noise when walking down the middle of bus, so I thinking of putting very short screws in that just long enough to pick the metal substrate hoping there might be a void above the fuel tank to do this. Sketchy😳
Yeah I was so paranaoid about screwing into the fuel tank or the lines underneath the floor! Are you in any of the coaster groups on Facebook? You could ask there - someone may have more knowledge about whether there is a gap between the tank and the floor there.
Thanks Dyani will try those groups.
Kind Regards Grant
Your floor frame map is great idea! Are you able to share ?
I have a picture of the map I drew on my blog here: agirladogandabus.com/toyota-coaster-bus-conversion/installing-the-new-plywood-floor/
You can use it as a general guide but please bear in mind that there may be differences with your coaster, in terms of the actual frame, as well as what is underneath it.
@@AGirlADogandABus
Thank you so much Dyani. I'm following your steps and It's really helpful.
Now time to take all floor out and purchases plywood.
Did you use 2440 x 1220 x 18mm? How many did you used them in the end? Looking forward to next episode.
Yes that is the size I started with. I ended up using 4 sheets of the 18mm and 2 of the 12mm just because of how I cut them and how I joined them on the frame. You could do it using fewer sheets if you run them lengthways instead, but I wanted good support underneath mine so chose to do it across the bus. I have a fair bit of ply left over but I don't mind as I will use it for things inside the bus so won't be wasted.
@@AGirlADogandABus
Thank you so much. I’m off to Bunnings this morning.
😊🚎 .
Roller brush it on
Great job, as usual, Dyani! How many ply sheets did you end up using? and what do you think can be the minimum amount?
You know, I honestly can't remember now. I think I used four sheets, but there was a bit left over, because of the way I cut them to fit the frame. I think I explained that in the video. If you laid the sheets lengthways in the main section I think you could get away with three sheets. But you'd have to do the measurements for your bus. It has been so long since I did the floor. Actually, I am just now thinking of redoing it. I am having issues with mould in the marine ply and am not totally happy with it. Considering replacing it with Formply, which is what I used for my first bus. But oh, it is such a massive job. I'm still debating what I will do.
@@AGirlADogandABus I'm thinking of using thermo-lite boards, which is composite material, lighter, mould free, rot free, better thermal insulation, but 3-4 times more expensive than normal ply. This is why I'm trying to see if I can get away with 3 sheets of 12.7mm and one 6.35mm.
@@sergeykolesov4992 How strong is that stuff? I've heard of people using it for cabinets etc but not for the floor.
@@AGirlADogandABus The 19mm Thermo-lite board requires spacings at 610mm, while the 12.7mm requires spacings between 305mm - 406mm. This is info I've got. It's used for subfloor in some campers I believe.
Those small pieces will rust?
Yeah I hope not. I did paint them with Penetrol and it is galvanised steel so it should be ok. But I do kinda wish I'd thought to put those pieces on first before I painted the whole frame.
How much did all the marine ply cost in total for floor?
It cost AUD$700 all up. Although because of how I had to cut the sheets, I probably only used about 2/3 of the ply altogether, so some of it will go into other projects.