Sharkbite Frost Free Outdoor Faucet (12"): geni.us/kVYEUf2 Sharkbite 1/2" Cap: geni.us/TWSTle Sharkbite 1/2" Removal Tool: geni.us/pAyD9g Sharkbite 1/2" Elbow: geni.us/KfdR Sharkbite Deburring Tool: geni.us/Q05teu0 Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Makita Cordless Drill Combo Kit: geni.us/t7dIA Dewalt Drill Bit Set: geni.us/oFlSl Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: geni.us/VDcr Craftsman Screwdriver Set: geni.us/jXqFI Eklind Allen Wrench Set: geni.us/7XfvO Pliers (4-Piece Set): geni.us/RIdx Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: geni.us/MlyiLk Stanley Tape Measure: geni.us/bUfD1R Studbuddy Stud Finder: geni.us/RySCuVw Johnson Torpedo Level: geni.us/wiLcDY Stanley Hammer: geni.us/bPDk8Wo Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: geni.us/vk3cpTW Klein Voltage Tester: geni.us/h9Hl Klein Outlet Tester: geni.us/kdBAJ Milwaukee Wire Strippers: geni.us/5zuLAbC Little Giant Ladder: geni.us/fmlmTk DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I live in Springfield,IL and I forgot to unhook the hose one winter and the next spring I had a flood in the basement when I turned on the hose to water the grass. I'll never forget to do that again! I had a plumber give me an estimate on replacing the spigot, he quoted me $700.00 and that's with a 10% discount!! I just finished doing the job myself with your help from this video and I did it for less than $100.00 and it only took a couple of hours. I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance! I'm a life long member of RUclips University!!
I watched 4 videos before I got to yours. Wish I had found it first. Exactly my issue and you made it look super simple. Great step-by-step instructions. Thanks!
Good video. I've used these on two spigots and both failed. They didn't fail on the pipe connection but on the outside at the chrome cap (vacuum break) on the top. You mentioned here what I didn't know at the time and that is you MUST disconnect your hose before they freeze. If I had read the directions (my bad) I would have realized this and saved myself the time and hassle of having to replace them.
I'm surprised you didn't add a SharkBite shutoff valve, you if you ever have any problems with the outdoor faucet, you can just shut the water off to that particular faucet. Great Video.. Thank you. JC
Hi Scott. Very nice step-by-step video! I have 2 suggestions: yes, while you spoke about deburing the outside of the pipe, it is also important to debur the inside of the pipe to stop water turbulence and possible banging from all of those burrs especially when cutting with a hacksaw. Secondly, I would put a pipe clamp on the 2x4 just before the SharkBite to give the whole assembly more support. Yes, I would interested in the drywall plumbing project too! Thanks!
I saw your video and ordered the parts and replaced the spigot on my own!! I am not a plumber but I do try to make a go at things and this was so simple to do..Thanks!!
I don’t mean to nitpick but you did miss one important step and a lot of people don’t do this step but it’s extremely important. That is measuring and marking the insertion depth on the copper pipe for the shark bite fitting. I think it’s 15/16 for half inch fittings and one in the eighth for three-quarter but verify those. It’s important because you can push the fitting on until it pops and stops and think you’re at hey solid seat but not actually be there. I marked the pipe once and push the sitting on and it popped and stopped. I looked at the mark I had made to ensure proper insertion depth and it wasn’t all the way on so I pushed harder and then it did go to the Mark for a solid seat. So that convince me that marking the pipe first prior to pushing the shark bite fitting on is extremely important to avoid leaks.
@@DireNeeds yes I have the orange tool that measures and deburrs the outer side but you also need the pen with blades tool for the inside. Both are only about $30 all together at a building store
My pipe burst recently due to the winter and we were able to hear the water leaking into the crawl space. Luckily caught it in time. Loved the video,without you I wouldn’t have been able to fix it!Also it was the weekend so it was hard to get ahold of a plumber!
I have a manufactured home that has all PEX plumbing and I always use the Sharkbite system. I absolutely love it because its so simple ands easy to use.
Thanks very much for making this video. I reviewed it before I did the same job on my house. My only comment is that I assume you were concerned about orientation of the outside spigot because of the way it has to fit on your siding boards. Those who don’t have that issue should know that once the spigot and piping is installed in the SharkBite fittings - it can be rotated 360 degrees before securing it to the house.
Thank you thank you thank you! I am a senior widow in the woods so to speak and your video was so informative and educational . I hesitate to call plumbers unless in an emergency because of the expense as I am on SS . I would like to know more about those Shark Bite copper fittings .
Over the years I have decided that if it's outdoors or wet areas I use stainless steel bolts / fasteners. Yes they cost more, but they save so many headaches down the road.
I havent used sharkbite spigot before and that's what I'll use next time if the customer is ok spending the extra money for the part. Also want to comment on leak testing. You said you ran water out the spigot to look for leaks. The true test should have been conducted under pressure with the spigot turned off. That should have been mentioned in this video. Also you mentioned reusing the old part (90°) to avoid having having to purchase another sharkbite 90. I liked that you were able to reuse it. In my mind it's best to replace. Suggesting to reuse corroded copper piping is a shortcut and in most cases not recommended. Also it looks cleaner and reassuring to replace rather than reuse (best practice).
I've been looking for replacing my garden faucet for quite some time and your video and the detail of step by step are very helpful. Thank you for sharing!
Love your videos.. great for home owners uses. And yes, you should include deburing and also a marked measurement of the fitting 15/16” so proper seating is achieved. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and information so handy guys could help themselves
Recently I was informed to change these to stop the leaks but didn’t know how to. Thanks for showing this will follow these steps. Will love to see other types as well. Just subbed.
I have to replace my outdoor spigot also, but it is a the bottom of the list. It leaks so much outside, sometimes we can't tell if the water is on/off. Eventually, it all drains, but water outside is an enemy in the North. Mine goes inside to a finished part of the basement, but I may have access. I will have to add some of these details for when I'm ready to tackle. Thanks for the perfect pace of your videos.
As a handyman/renovator in Canada, I am not a fan of the frost free wall hydrants, with or without the vacuum breaker. I've installed dozens and most never last more than 3 to 5 years. The majority are off-shore junk and parts, other than a replacement washer, are rarely available. I prefer the older KISS system (Keep It Simple Stupid). My 1928 home has three exterior spigots mounted through the poured concrete foundation wall. All are simple quality solid brass spigots. These valves now typically sell for about $8 compared to $55 for the newer 'frost free' type. I have repaired all three brass valves once during the last 46 years and one valve has just be repaired for it's second time. (Clean, replace washer and replace bonnet packing). I will recondition the other two spigots some time this summer, then they will all be good for the next 50 years. Canadian building codes require every external faucet to have a separate interior shut off valve with a bleeder valve. It takes about 2 minutes each fall to turn off the inside shut-off valve, bleed the excess water that remains between the inside and outside valves and leave the exterior valve open for the winter to prevent freezing when the temps sink to minus 30. I never plan to replace an outside spigot.
Along the lines of your reply, you don't have to drill a big hole for the conventional spigots. And I found one that is made with a ball valve. I installed that on the outside of my in-law's house. I think ball valves are easier to use for the elderly.
@@AStanton1966 I'm a big fan of 1/4 turn, full port ball valves for almost all valve requirements. Superior as an on/off shut-off valve, but not well suited for applications requiring throttling to control flow. Still works very well for outdoor faucets because throttling can be done at the hose nozzle.
@@kooale I suppose. Frost-free valves, having a longer valve stem, tend to drip a lot before shutting down. This makes people want to kill the valve and over-tighten them.
We had a record freeze in south Texas that burst some of my pipes. I had to cut into my inside wall to get to the faucet. Since I had paneling cutting into the sheetrock was no problem. I did have my plumber buddy do the soldering in the wall. It had to be done fast as not to burn the house down. I will try the SharkBite on other projects.
Yeah, when you are starting off sweating pipes I think the open flame around wood does intimidate a good number of home owners. I wonder home many spigots burst during the freeze in Texas 🤯
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Also a lot of vacuum breakers for sprinklers cracked. Most stores were sold out. I went to a industrial supply store and found one. He told me he had six left after ordering eighty.
Thanks. They want $500 plus to install a for one new sillcock installation. Mine is straight in. I have been watching videos to gain the confidence to DIY. I am getting more confident if I take my time and not rush.
I clean carpets for a living since 1987 so I've literally hooked up to thousands of homes outside faucets for water. I've seen a whole lot of these freeze up during winter and cause a leak inside the home or under the house more times than I can even keep track of because it happens a LOT. I'm sure improper installation is the number one culprit. If they aren't sealed up against the wall properly or pitched properly it will only take one good freeze and you'll be needing either a repair or a replacement. When I clean I need to hook up to the outside faucet and believe me this has caused me trouble a lot of times over the years. I would almost bet money if I were a betting person that somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/4'th of all faucets in my area is bad as I type this. I'm in SE Missouri so our weather may get down to zero in the winter and rarely lower with wind chill. I very rarely see a faucet that is actually sealed up against the wall and often they're hanging very loose and not pitched properly so they can drain out when you take the hose off. Most people do remove their hoses in the winter, or at least they claim they do so improper installation is the number one cause IMHO of failure of these faucets.
You might be in luck, I have 2 spigots which are covered by drywall and I am trying to work that project into the content calendar. Thanks for the feedback!
For newbies, I would recommend purchasing the Sharkbite depth gauge. Using a Sharpie to mark the proper insertion depth on the pipe ensures a tight connection.
Thanks for the video. I bought everything the same and everything works perfectly. I drilled my hole slightly lower to clear the lip on the siding so it sits more flush.
Another winner here Scott. I was a little worried until you cleaned up the pipes. I’ve used SharkBite push to fit, and they have leaked, due to my error. All pipes must be burr free, inside as well as outside, so glad you covered that. I’m not a big fan of them, but feel they have their place, and make a good temporary fix. I’ve used the stops, on pipes I would have to come back to work on, and allow the water to be cut back on. I’ve got an outside spigot that needs to be replaced, but it should be relatively easy? It’s a frost free design, and it runs directly into the plumbing with a compression fitting. I just can’t tell what size I need, so I will buy a 10 and 12 inch spigot. There is a secondary cut off ( gate valve ) but it’s locked on tight. Sediment and some corrosion I’m sure, but PB blaster, WD 40, nothing will loosen it. I can just cut off the main ball valve at the utility area. I think your idea on other types of installs would be good. BTW, I just picked up the Klein NCVT you rec’d in a recent video, and it’s the best non contact tester I’ve used, so big Thanks for that! 👍👍👍😁✌🏻
I like to use a small spirit level on the pipe to the valve to insure you have downward drainage when you turn the valve off. Doesn't take much, half a bubble at the line will do.
Very good explanation of how to replace an outdoor faucet. Another brand of faucet I would like to see how you install is the Aquor House Hydrant. This faucet self drains and can be left uncovered during freezing conditions without bursting and would be interesting to see how easy it is to install.
I just replaced all mine with the Aquor, you can put a SharkBite fitting on the end of the Aquor and then its identical install to this video. The vacuum breaker is on the removable hose part so it leaves a really classy fixture on the outside of the house.
Good video as always. I just replaced 2 frost-proof faucets this weekend. One leaked inside the house when you turned the water on. (Luckily I went into the basement right after turning it on or my basement would have flooded). And my other frost-proof faucet was spraying water outside when you turned it on. The anti-siphon had failed. I replaced them both with an Aquor V2+. A very slick system and they are rebuildable. Definitely worth checking them out. I have brick at both faucets and the recommend the Aquor V1 for brick or concrete but I liked the look of the V2 better and don’t mind the extra work. And I used the Pex-A expansion version with a service loop so I can pull it out from the front to service it should I ever need to. I personally don’t care much for the quick connect fittings. If I am in a tight spot or don’t have room for a torch to solder and don’t have Pex-A available I use a double ended compression fitting (or make one). It’s more work but I’ve never had one leak and I can easily take it apart if I need to service the hydrant.
My parents had the same issue with one of their outdoor spigots. When I replaced it, I also added a cut-off switch just before the spigot in case I had to replace it again, just so I didn't have to turn off the entire house's water (like I had to do the first time :) In addition, I also added a small drop-down "box" over the entire area with a "door" that opened, giving access to the entire area (this too was in a finished ceiling). Painted, it more or less blended in (being in the corner helped too).
Yeah, I added a dedicated shut off inside my house when I replaced my spigot. I have one main shut off, and that's it. I don't have dedicated shut offs. Whoever plumbed my house was an idiot.
I'd be interested to see the other spigots start to finish, including dry wall. But this video is exactly the same scenario I'm in. I didn't even realize shark bite spigots were a thing. Thanks.
@@johnchonka2052 if you install them correctly, they are fine. Most leaks come from not deburring the inner and outer diameter..and making sure they are fully seated. Iirc got2learn goes over it a lot in pretty good detail .. when he put that cap on, he should have deburred the outside of the copper ..it tears up the rubber o ring (fyi: wrote before watching video)
@@scarce911 where I live they fail alot due to extreme cold -20°f consistently and even colder. I've been plumbing 25+ years I'm old school I prefer soilder and expansion pex with male sweat brass adaptors. Sharkbite is for people that don't know how to Plumb. I will say I use sharkbit for temporary fixes example if I can't get the water totally off atm I'll use sharkbit until I can solider a permanent fix
at -20°Fa Sharkbite can prevent a burst cooper pipe, by acting as a relief valve... yes it will still leak but a Sharkbite can usually just be pushed back into place instead of having to find where the pipe burst and then having to repair it.... but I get it the trades hate to see anything.that will avoid a overprice service call.... FYI PEX A is better option than cooper to prevent freezing damage...
Very nice pertinent video. Would have been nice to show the removal of the end-cap sharkbite with the removal tool used to cap-off the supply copper pipe. Also, the supply copper pipe was not apparently sanded or cleaned before the 90-degree was attached, which could cause a terrible leak.
I’m refinishing my basement currently and found my front yard water turn off valve buried behind 2 gas pipes that was all drywalled over. Definitely trying to make it leak proof now during the remodel compared to later on when it’s all buried again especially because I’m going to lose access to the shut off valve again
Scott, This is great. I unfortunately have the issue where my spigot has been stripped (a Mr. Thread wouldn't even work) and it is frost-free and within the drywall, compliments of the former home owner who finished the basement. I am interested in learning about the drywall video - if you have one.
If your wanting the spigot to last longer, you would install a shut off valve with a bleeder valve especially if your in the northern Canadian winters.
Yeah, I was really surprised he didn't simultaneously install an isolation valve. A small effort to avoid bigger potential problems down the road, whether the basement is finished or not!
My understanding was Infin1ty was talking about plumbing through the slab as opposed to open air in the basement like the video. If that's the case, it would be quite different.
All depends on how the plumber decided to do it. It should be just a matter of cutting the water off(draining)and unscrewing it. We'd always screw a drop eared elbow to a purlin, and stub out a galvanized nipple. Most do it this way, but have seen a little bit of everything.
I installed these at four locations in my house and less than a year later replaced them all. These are easy to install, but you can't get parts for them, they have a ridiculously flimsy seal, that leaked almost immediately, and a handle that while cute, it painful to turn. If you want the convenience of a slip op fitting, buy a regular valve and add an shark-bite adapter.
Oh man, that handle is a questionable design 😂. Mine leaked a bit at the start and was hard to turn completely off but after a little use it seems to have seated the seal a bit better.
This video was very informative, I had the same faucet installed several months ago but the water pressure is so low, that I cannot use my sprinkler to water my plants. I am not having this problem with any other water faucet at my home. Is that something that can be done so that I can get better water output?
Man, I think I will do one of those in the near future. I have 1 of my outdoor spigots in this situation and I think it would relate to many homeowners.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to this video. I have 3 spigot which need to be replaced soon... all behind finish walls. Would you also talk about adding an optional access panel? Thanks!
Here's how I would have done it. De-sweat the hose faucet from the street elbow, retrieve a matching length from the truck, clean street elbow and sweat on the new bibb. It's actually less work and less money than what you did. But hey what do I know I'm just a licensed master plumber LOL
Ive seen that Sharkbite reccomends against sanding the outside of the pipe like this. I imagine it would be fine with an extermely fine paper, but the idea is that the outside of the tube needs to be very smooth (IE not roughed up with medium grit) for the o-ring gaskets to work properly. So you might have done better to just melt that excess solder off with a torch, and clean with a towel.
Nice video, as a plumber I do not recommend shark bite fittings for copper situations. I believe the ring inside the fitting is stainless steel which could cause electrolysis to both copper and stainless steel. Just my 2 cents worth.
Should definitely debur and also clean of the outside of exposed pipe with fine steel wool or similar. I would also not use that salvaged segment of pipe with so much stuff on it. Just grab a 3ft chunk of 1/2 pex tubing and an elbow. Although this is in accessible area if it ever leaks.
@@appleztooranges Sharpbite actually sells a combo tool that deburrs and measures the correct depth. It looks like an orange flute. I also recommend the Sharkbite removal tongs. They sell for about $10 at Lowes. They work a lot better than the little plastic orange removal tool.
FYI sharkbite saved me. I keep some around house in case of emergencies. July 4, I had an emergency leak (pin leak) and hole depot was closed and plumber wouldn’t answer. Used the sharkbite instead. That worked
Nice job for your situation. I need to replace my spicket but my cellar has 2x6 wall to a walk-in basement, therefore that spicket is way to long. I wanted to upgrade mine to a cold weather spicket but looks like I have replace mine with a regular short spicket.........
I would like to see a video covering replacement of the shut-off valve. My house was built mid 70's and the valve doesn't work, as well as being in a horrible location. I know I could hire a plumber, but with my experience I would also love to do the job. But as I do with everything, pre task planning dictates I should probably make sure the steps I have in my head are accurate. Thanks for another great video!
Unless your good at soldering I don't recommend a large fitting like that, depending on age could be a screw on though. If the area is finished think of the damage that could be caused. I am fairly good at plumbing and do a small amount in a professional capacity, I would still hire it out for the peace of mind personally unless it was a trailer or screw on in an unfinished basement.
@@stich1960 It's currently soldered, but looks like it was probably "wet" while being done. More than likely replaced already. We have lived there for 21 years and it has been crap for at least a couple years. I have checked with a couple local places (small and large business) and they want $500 plus to do it. That just seems silly. I can call the utilities to shut off the water and that's only $35 (off and on). I'm more than able to solder, but I have never done a soldered valve before. I do agree though, when I have enough doubt or have failed at similar jobs I call someone. Ex: replacement of a fuse panel, not gonna do it. Lol. The knowledge is there but the risk is high enough that's it is worth hiring it out.
@@Toyotajunkie I mean you do you. It's fairly risky imo around here it's hourly and would probably be closer to 300+ parts. I would still do it if it's finished at 500 because it comes with insurance
You can do the exact same steps with a shark bite ball valve and use pex instead of copper eliminating the soldering aspect. Would cost you around $100 hose bib, ball valve, and pex. As long as the angle from ball valve to hose bib isn't crazy you won't need to crimp anything.
I didn't know sharkbite made those, thanks. My lines have shutoff valves inside house so when the spigot starts leaking I can just shut it off, until I can fix it.
I'm interested to know how you did your repair on replacing the spigot in the wall. My son has no basement or crawl space and I need to find what part of the wall I need to cut out. I really love the shark bite pieces. Menards uses Aqualock which is similar to Sharkbite.
Great video, I'm glad we don't have frost here in California. I do have a question though. Our outdoor spigots have a anti siphon valve on them. When you turn off the water, there's always a spray of water comingout of the anti siphone valve. It's that normal. Can I just remove the valve from the spigot? Thanks
I would keep the valve in place but you can get a rebuild kit usually depending on the brand. Overall from your description I would say you are find and having some water go past the anti siphon valve when you shut the water off is common 👍
That downward slope is a big deal. We found that out the hard way last winter. There was no slope on ours and due to a freak ice storm the water inside froze and blew the faucet apart and there was water everywhere. For a replacement I'm going to use a couple of feet of PEX flexible pipe to replace the old galvanized steel that will allow me to get the bend required to give me slope.
Shark bites are good unions. You just don't want the pipe just de-bur the inside and outside of the pipe. It explicitly states that in the installation instructions. If you sand the pipe they may fail.
Liked this and it was informative. But. I was really hoping to change my spigot from the round handle to the lever style for quicker on and off. I checked your site but didn't see that. Perhaps you could consider a video on that style or explain how I change from the existing round handle. If it matters, this is a Florida install. Enjoy your videos.
Highly recommend adding a shut off valve for that spigot. These should have shut off valves so that the family can continue using water while you work on it when needed.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for responding. It would be a Skarkbite ball valve to replace the old style valve that’s connected ahead of the regulator inside the basement and is 58 years old. It is leaking like a shower spraying if I turn it to shut off the water supply inside the house to do any other repairs.
I was wondering if you ever did a video when replacing an outdoor faucet where the pipes go into a finished basement? I just found this video you made so I wish I had seen this video when you created it. I realize I am asking two years after you created this video.
I live in New England, I didn't go through all of this. All I did was add a ball vavle inside so in the winter I shut it off and run the rest of the water out. You just really have to remember to shut the water off.
Way to go ! Teaching people to use a garbage product, cause that's what more home owners need! Soldering isn't that hard and pex is even easier..way to take the easy way
Great video as always. I just bought 2 new Sharkbite sillcocks for my house. Can you please link where you got the heavy duty mount screws? Much appreciated!
How can I find your video about replacing outside faucet when the indoor wall is finished drywall? The one I just watched was awesome about the frost proof replacement.
Sharkbite Frost Free Outdoor Faucet (12"): geni.us/kVYEUf2
Sharkbite 1/2" Cap: geni.us/TWSTle
Sharkbite 1/2" Removal Tool: geni.us/pAyD9g
Sharkbite 1/2" Elbow: geni.us/KfdR
Sharkbite Deburring Tool: geni.us/Q05teu0
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I live in Springfield,IL and I forgot to unhook the hose one winter and the next spring I had a flood in the basement when I turned on the hose to water the grass. I'll never forget to do that again! I had a plumber give me an estimate on replacing the spigot, he quoted me $700.00 and that's with a 10% discount!! I just finished doing the job myself with your help from this video and I did it for less than $100.00 and it only took a couple of hours. I can't thank you enough for your help and guidance! I'm a life long member of RUclips University!!
Happy to help 👍
I second the drywall plumbing project video. Thank you helping all of the DIYers who could never afford hiring a plumber for these projects.
I watched 4 videos before I got to yours. Wish I had found it first. Exactly my issue and you made it look super simple. Great step-by-step instructions. Thanks!
Good video. I've used these on two spigots and both failed. They didn't fail on the pipe connection but on the outside at the chrome cap (vacuum break) on the top. You mentioned here what I didn't know at the time and that is you MUST disconnect your hose before they freeze. If I had read the directions (my bad) I would have realized this and saved myself the time and hassle of having to replace them.
I'm surprised you didn't add a SharkBite shutoff valve, you if you ever have any problems with the outdoor faucet, you can just shut the water off to that particular faucet. Great Video..
Thank you. JC
Hi Scott. Very nice step-by-step video! I have 2 suggestions: yes, while you spoke about deburing the outside of the pipe, it is also important to debur the inside of the pipe to stop water turbulence and possible banging from all of those burrs especially when cutting with a hacksaw. Secondly, I would put a pipe clamp on the 2x4 just before the SharkBite to give the whole assembly more support. Yes, I would interested in the drywall plumbing project too! Thanks!
I saw your video and ordered the parts and replaced the spigot on my own!! I am not a plumber but I do try to make a go at things and this was so simple to do..Thanks!!
Really appreciate the video and comments! Heading out do the replacement shortly
Yes I would be interested in seeing the other spigots!
I don’t mean to nitpick but you did miss one important step and a lot of people don’t do this step but it’s extremely important. That is measuring and marking the insertion depth on the copper pipe for the shark bite fitting. I think it’s 15/16 for half inch fittings and one in the eighth for three-quarter but verify those. It’s important because you can push the fitting on until it pops and stops and think you’re at hey solid seat but not actually be there. I marked the pipe once and push the sitting on and it popped and stopped. I looked at the mark I had made to ensure proper insertion depth and it wasn’t all the way on so I pushed harder and then it did go to the Mark for a solid seat. So that convince me that marking the pipe first prior to pushing the shark bite fitting on is extremely important to avoid leaks.
Hey Steve, thanks for the comment and call out as you are right and I did miss calling out the depth during the final install. Take care!
It isn't nitpicking if you provide constructive criticism in a positive respectful manner, as you did here. Thanks for adding that important tidbit!!
There's actually a tool put out by Sharkbite that will deburr and measure the insertion depth for you. Handy thing to have.
@@DireNeeds yes I have the orange tool that measures and deburrs the outer side but you also need the pen with blades tool for the inside. Both are only about $30 all together at a building store
Very important, makes it full proof
Yes, I'm interested in seeing the hard to reach spigots. It sounds like a good thing to learn.
Same here, I'd be interested in seeing the handling of that hard to reach spigots.
My pipe burst recently due to the winter and we were able to hear the water leaking into the crawl space. Luckily caught it in time. Loved the video,without you I wouldn’t have been able to fix it!Also it was the weekend so it was hard to get ahold of a plumber!
Nice, way to jump on the problem, get it fixed, and avoid a bigger problem 👊
I have a manufactured home that has all PEX plumbing and I always use the Sharkbite system. I absolutely love it because its so simple ands easy to use.
Can't beat it, takes alot of work away from plumbers tho🤫
*The world could always use more bartenders.* 🤷🏾♀️
What are you talking about. Why would we quit the plumbing when there’s all that work repairing failed shark bites
Going to replace my older 2 spigots with Sharkbite fittings as well as shut off valves for each! Thanks for helping us DIYer's!
Thanks very much for making this video. I reviewed it before I did the same job on my house. My only comment is that I assume you were concerned about orientation of the outside spigot because of the way it has to fit on your siding boards. Those who don’t have that issue should know that once the spigot and piping is installed in the SharkBite fittings - it can be rotated 360 degrees before securing it to the house.
Thank you thank you thank you!
I am a senior widow in the woods so to speak and your video was so informative and educational . I hesitate to call plumbers unless in an emergency because of the expense as I am on SS . I would like to know more about those Shark Bite copper fittings .
Over the years I have decided that if it's outdoors or wet areas I use stainless steel bolts / fasteners. Yes they cost more, but they save so many headaches down the road.
I havent used sharkbite spigot before and that's what I'll use next time if the customer is ok spending the extra money for the part. Also want to comment on leak testing. You said you ran water out the spigot to look for leaks. The true test should have been conducted under pressure with the spigot turned off. That should have been mentioned in this video.
Also you mentioned reusing the old part (90°) to avoid having having to purchase another sharkbite 90. I liked that you were able to reuse it. In my mind it's best to replace. Suggesting to reuse corroded copper piping is a shortcut and in most cases not recommended. Also it looks cleaner and reassuring to replace rather than reuse (best practice).
Thank you. I just installed a new spigot on a wall that didn’t have one based on your video (and a few others). Works great and no leaks! 👍
I've been looking for replacing my garden faucet for quite some time and your video and the detail of step by step are very helpful. Thank you for sharing!
Shark bite everything for 15 years and counting! Zero problems or replacements!
Love your videos.. great for home owners uses. And yes, you should include deburing and also a marked measurement of the fitting 15/16” so proper seating is achieved. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and information so handy guys could help themselves
Recently I was informed to change these to stop the leaks but didn’t know how to. Thanks for showing this will follow these steps. Will love to see other types as well. Just subbed.
I have to replace my outdoor spigot also, but it is a the bottom of the list. It leaks so much outside, sometimes we can't tell if the water is on/off. Eventually, it all drains, but water outside is an enemy in the North. Mine goes inside to a finished part of the basement, but I may have access. I will have to add some of these details for when I'm ready to tackle. Thanks for the perfect pace of your videos.
Thanks for the video, by watching it, I realized I needed some stuff like the weather caulking and sandpaper.
As a handyman/renovator in Canada, I am not a fan of the frost free wall hydrants, with or without the vacuum breaker. I've installed dozens and most never last more than 3 to 5 years. The majority are off-shore junk and parts, other than a replacement washer, are rarely available. I prefer the older KISS system (Keep It Simple Stupid). My 1928 home has three exterior spigots mounted through the poured concrete foundation wall. All are simple quality solid brass spigots. These valves now typically sell for about $8 compared to $55 for the newer 'frost free' type. I have repaired all three brass valves once during the last 46 years and one valve has just be repaired for it's second time. (Clean, replace washer and replace bonnet packing). I will recondition the other two spigots some time this summer, then they will all be good for the next 50 years. Canadian building codes require every external faucet to have a separate interior shut off valve with a bleeder valve. It takes about 2 minutes each fall to turn off the inside shut-off valve, bleed the excess water that remains between the inside and outside valves and leave the exterior valve open for the winter to prevent freezing when the temps sink to minus 30. I never plan to replace an outside spigot.
Along the lines of your reply, you don't have to drill a big hole for the conventional spigots. And I found one that is made with a ball valve. I installed that on the outside of my in-law's house. I think ball valves are easier to use for the elderly.
@@AStanton1966 I'm a big fan of 1/4 turn, full port ball valves for almost all valve requirements. Superior as an on/off shut-off valve, but not well suited for applications requiring throttling to control flow. Still works very well for outdoor faucets because throttling can be done at the hose nozzle.
Fabulous remarks. Big smile
@@AStanton1966 Aren't ball valves easier to turn for EVERYbody?
@@kooale I suppose. Frost-free valves, having a longer valve stem, tend to drip a lot before shutting down. This makes people want to kill the valve and over-tighten them.
We had a record freeze in south Texas that burst some of my pipes. I had to cut into my inside wall to get
to the faucet. Since I had paneling cutting into the sheetrock was no problem. I did have my plumber buddy do the soldering in the wall. It had to be done fast as not to burn the house down. I will try the SharkBite on other projects.
Yeah, when you are starting off sweating pipes I think the open flame around wood does intimidate a good number of home owners. I wonder home many spigots burst during the freeze in Texas 🤯
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Also a lot of vacuum breakers for sprinklers cracked. Most stores were sold out. I went to a industrial supply store and found one. He told me he had six left after ordering eighty.
Thanks. They want $500 plus to install a for one new sillcock installation. Mine is straight in. I have been watching videos to gain the confidence to DIY. I am getting more confident if I take my time and not rush.
I clean carpets for a living since 1987 so I've literally hooked up to thousands of homes outside faucets for water. I've seen a whole lot of these freeze up during winter and cause a leak inside the home or under the house more times than I can even keep track of because it happens a LOT. I'm sure improper installation is the number one culprit. If they aren't sealed up against the wall properly or pitched properly it will only take one good freeze and you'll be needing either a repair or a replacement. When I clean I need to hook up to the outside faucet and believe me this has caused me trouble a lot of times over the years. I would almost bet money if I were a betting person that somewhere in the neighborhood of 1/4'th of all faucets in my area is bad as I type this. I'm in SE Missouri so our weather may get down to zero in the winter and rarely lower with wind chill. I very rarely see a faucet that is actually sealed up against the wall and often they're hanging very loose and not pitched properly so they can drain out when you take the hose off. Most people do remove their hoses in the winter, or at least they claim they do so improper installation is the number one cause IMHO of failure of these faucets.
The more challenging spigot behind the drywall is exactly what I'm dealing with, I would love to see a video on that
You might be in luck, I have 2 spigots which are covered by drywall and I am trying to work that project into the content calendar. Thanks for the feedback!
Yes Sir, I sure could use that video going into the wall, I have 2 I need to do and the plumber wants 350 each including the parts. 😩
For newbies, I would recommend purchasing the Sharkbite depth gauge. Using a Sharpie to mark the proper insertion depth on the pipe ensures a tight connection.
Yep, not getting the proper depth I would guess is 99% of the reason behind people getting leaks with Sharkbie fittings.
Yes, and use the debur tools. I've seen a debur tool that also measures depth. Very handy.
Thanks for the video. I bought everything the same and everything works perfectly. I drilled my hole slightly lower to clear the lip on the siding so it sits more flush.
This is my favorite DIY channel. Thanks.
Thanks for the support!
Love the low voltage line wrapped around the copper pipe lol
We have textured walls in our house on a slab, so that other video sounds very useful!
Another winner here Scott. I was a little worried until you cleaned up the pipes. I’ve used SharkBite push to fit, and they have leaked, due to my error. All pipes must be burr free, inside as well as outside, so glad you covered that. I’m not a big fan of them, but feel they have their place, and make a good temporary fix. I’ve used the stops, on pipes I would have to come back to work on, and allow the water to be cut back on. I’ve got an outside spigot that needs to be replaced, but it should be relatively easy? It’s a frost free design, and it runs directly into the plumbing with a compression fitting. I just can’t tell what size I need, so I will buy a 10 and 12 inch spigot. There is a secondary cut off ( gate valve ) but it’s locked on tight. Sediment and some corrosion I’m sure, but PB blaster, WD 40, nothing will loosen it. I can just cut off the main ball valve at the utility area. I think your idea on other types of installs would be good. BTW, I just picked up the Klein NCVT you rec’d in a recent video, and it’s the best non contact tester I’ve used, so big Thanks for that! 👍👍👍😁✌🏻
Hey George, sounds like you got a nice little project ahead of you. 😁
I like to use a small spirit level on the pipe to the valve to insure you have downward drainage when you turn the valve off. Doesn't take much, half a bubble at the line will do.
Very good explanation of how to replace an outdoor faucet. Another brand of faucet I would like to see how you install is the Aquor House Hydrant. This faucet self drains and can be left uncovered during freezing conditions without bursting and would be interesting to see how easy it is to install.
I just replaced all mine with the Aquor, you can put a SharkBite fitting on the end of the Aquor and then its identical install to this video. The vacuum breaker is on the removable hose part so it leaves a really classy fixture on the outside of the house.
Good video as always. I just replaced 2 frost-proof faucets this weekend. One leaked inside the house when you turned the water on. (Luckily I went into the basement right after turning it on or my basement would have flooded). And my other frost-proof faucet was spraying water outside when you turned it on. The anti-siphon had failed.
I replaced them both with an Aquor V2+. A very slick system and they are rebuildable. Definitely worth checking them out. I have brick at both faucets and the recommend the Aquor V1 for brick or concrete but I liked the look of the V2 better and don’t mind the extra work. And I used the Pex-A expansion version with a service loop so I can pull it out from the front to service it should I ever need to.
I personally don’t care much for the quick connect fittings. If I am in a tight spot or don’t have room for a torch to solder and don’t have Pex-A available I use a double ended compression fitting (or make one). It’s more work but I’ve never had one leak and I can easily take it apart if I need to service the hydrant.
love shark bite used them to redo my entire cold water line, its been about 5 or 6 years now and not a single leak so far
This guy is the real deal! Great explanation and instructions. I had a similar issue and this video helped me so much.
Happy to help 🙌
My parents had the same issue with one of their outdoor spigots.
When I replaced it, I also added a cut-off switch just before the spigot in case I had to replace it again, just so I didn't have to turn off the entire house's water (like I had to do the first time :)
In addition, I also added a small drop-down "box" over the entire area with a "door" that opened, giving access to the entire area (this too was in a finished ceiling). Painted, it more or less blended in (being in the corner helped too).
Yeah, I added a dedicated shut off inside my house when I replaced my spigot. I have one main shut off, and that's it. I don't have dedicated shut offs. Whoever plumbed my house was an idiot.
i always add extra shut offs for water or gas whenever i have to take something apart. they always come in handy later on.
@@feelingtardy but adds another failure point, no?
@@wolfeadventures I'm in a house that will be 100 years old next year. Things done right can last a very, very, long time without aver failing.
Yes, absolutely interested in the other spigots. Mainly for tracing the line & finding it on the interior side.
I'd be interested to see the other spigots start to finish, including dry wall. But this video is exactly the same scenario I'm in. I didn't even realize shark bite spigots were a thing. Thanks.
They are handy 👍
I wouldn't use them they leak get a real plumber to fix it right and will last
@@johnchonka2052 if you install them correctly, they are fine. Most leaks come from not deburring the inner and outer diameter..and making sure they are fully seated. Iirc got2learn goes over it a lot in pretty good detail .. when he put that cap on, he should have deburred the outside of the copper ..it tears up the rubber o ring (fyi: wrote before watching video)
@@scarce911 where I live they fail alot due to extreme cold -20°f consistently and even colder. I've been plumbing 25+ years I'm old school I prefer soilder and expansion pex with male sweat brass adaptors. Sharkbite is for people that don't know how to Plumb. I will say I use sharkbit for temporary fixes example if I can't get the water totally off atm I'll use sharkbit until I can solider a permanent fix
at -20°Fa Sharkbite can prevent a burst cooper pipe, by acting as a relief valve... yes it will still leak but a Sharkbite can usually just be pushed back into place instead of having to find where the pipe burst and then having to repair it....
but I get it the trades hate to see anything.that will avoid a overprice service call....
FYI PEX A is better option than cooper to prevent freezing damage...
Very nice pertinent video. Would have been nice to show the removal of the end-cap sharkbite with the removal tool used to cap-off the supply copper pipe. Also, the supply copper pipe was not apparently sanded or cleaned before the 90-degree was attached, which could cause a terrible leak.
When you mentioned o-rings I was thinking what happens when those deteriorate? Solder or pex does not deteriorate.
Good info. One note, you did not give the vinyl siding any opportunity to expand or contract with temperature changes.
I’m refinishing my basement currently and found my front yard water turn off valve buried behind 2 gas pipes that was all drywalled over. Definitely trying to make it leak proof now during the remodel compared to later on when it’s all buried again especially because I’m going to lose access to the shut off valve again
Scott, This is great. I unfortunately have the issue where my spigot has been stripped (a Mr. Thread wouldn't even work) and it is frost-free and within the drywall, compliments of the former home owner who finished the basement.
I am interested in learning about the drywall video - if you have one.
Thanks! This is exactly what I needed to replace my outdoor spigot.
What are you using at 7:00? Is that some kind of a potable vise?
Yes, I need to replace in finished ceiling,in basement. Valve is in garage and it’s not obvious where it enters, I don’t want holes everywhere
If your wanting the spigot to last longer, you would install a shut off valve with a bleeder valve especially if your in the northern Canadian winters.
Thanks for the feedback/advice!
Yeah, I was really surprised he didn't simultaneously install an isolation valve. A small effort to avoid bigger potential problems down the road, whether the basement is finished or not!
Did you consider adding a vinyl siding adapter (also used for lights) to give you a flat surface to mount to?
Yep for the cost easy to do and finished look..
That’s what I did. Looks much better than this slash job.
Amazing, just what I needed, know what the plumber quoted me today!!!!!!!!!$800!!!! Thank you so much.
😬
Since you cut the pipe, why not put a shut off valve right before it? (Since you had to shut off the whole house?)
Great video! I just replaced mine the exact same way. I wish I saw your video sooner, it would have saved me some time.
Yes I need to see the other installed finish space spicket replacement
I would love to see how to do this with a brick house that is on a slab.
That would be a good one, thanks for the feedback 👍
Same thing except you might need a hammer drill and masonry screws
My understanding was Infin1ty was talking about plumbing through the slab as opposed to open air in the basement like the video. If that's the case, it would be quite different.
All depends on how the plumber decided to do it. It should be just a matter of cutting the water off(draining)and unscrewing it. We'd always screw a drop eared elbow to a purlin, and stub out a galvanized nipple. Most do it this way, but have seen a little bit of everything.
I have a hard to reach spigot I need to replace, so a video on that would be great!
Thanks for the feedback! 👍
I installed these at four locations in my house and less than a year later replaced them all. These are easy to install, but you can't get parts for them, they have a ridiculously flimsy seal, that leaked almost immediately, and a handle that while cute, it painful to turn. If you want the convenience of a slip op fitting, buy a regular valve and add an shark-bite adapter.
Oh man, that handle is a questionable design 😂. Mine leaked a bit at the start and was hard to turn completely off but after a little use it seems to have seated the seal a bit better.
Mine is also painful to turn, I might return it.
This video was very informative, I had the same faucet installed several months ago but the water pressure is so low, that I cannot use my sprinkler to water my plants. I am not having this problem with any other water faucet at my home. Is that something that can be done so that I can get better water output?
Can’t wait to replace these!! remove the hose bib and solder a new one on easy money! Cheap out now means you pay later!
Would love to see the job with hard to reach pipes behind drywall. That is my project for today.
Man, I think I will do one of those in the near future. I have 1 of my outdoor spigots in this situation and I think it would relate to many homeowners.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Looking forward to this video. I have 3 spigot which need to be replaced soon... all behind finish walls. Would you also talk about adding an optional access panel? Thanks!
Here's how I would have done it. De-sweat the hose faucet from the street elbow, retrieve a matching length from the truck, clean street elbow and sweat on the new bibb. It's actually less work and less money than what you did. But hey what do I know I'm just a licensed master plumber LOL
Knowledge is Power. Go for it, I'm interested.
Thanks for the feedback!
Amazing job on this - exactly what I needed for very similar project.
Ive seen that Sharkbite reccomends against sanding the outside of the pipe like this. I imagine it would be fine with an extermely fine paper, but the idea is that the outside of the tube needs to be very smooth (IE not roughed up with medium grit) for the o-ring gaskets to work properly. So you might have done better to just melt that excess solder off with a torch, and clean with a towel.
Thanks for the feedback Jon 👍
Think most important is straight cut and no burs
Awesome I just took look because I need to replace on in my crawl space THANK YOU 🙏
I would like to see how to replace the spigot in the finished area of the basement. Thanks for your great videos.
We used sharkbites when we remodeled our bathrooms. They work great!
If installed correctly they seem to hold up well. Will they last for 40-50 years 🤷♂️
Nice video, as a plumber I do not recommend shark bite fittings for copper situations. I believe the ring inside the fitting is stainless steel which could cause electrolysis to both copper and stainless steel. Just my 2 cents worth.
Yes, I'm interested in the other spigot with the dry walll thanks.
Did you post a video for installing a new spigot in a finished area?
Not yet, it is on the list 👍
Don’t you have to debur the inside of the pipe as well? With the pencil deburrer/ exacto knife
Should definitely debur and also clean of the outside of exposed pipe with fine steel wool or similar. I would also not use that salvaged segment of pipe with so much stuff on it. Just grab a 3ft chunk of 1/2 pex tubing and an elbow. Although this is in accessible area if it ever leaks.
Some tubing cutters come with a de-burring built on them. In a pinch, you can use a utility knife to swish around the inside diameter.
@@AStanton1966 what I used. Utility knife. Now I got the pencil deburrer
@@appleztooranges Sharpbite actually sells a combo tool that deburrs and measures the correct depth. It looks like an orange flute. I also recommend the Sharkbite removal tongs. They sell for about $10 at Lowes. They work a lot better than the little plastic orange removal tool.
@@AStanton1966 I got it. Hard to do in between cuts though. Like if you have just a coupling or something and only got 1/4” or so
Wish I had seen this a week ago! I used the same fitting and had to install a flex line in between the spigot and supply line because of the offset.
FYI sharkbite saved me. I keep some around house in case of emergencies. July 4, I had an emergency leak (pin leak) and hole depot was closed and plumber wouldn’t answer. Used the sharkbite instead. That worked
The sharkbites really do shine in those type of scenarios. 👍👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I don’t have any soldering and no propress device. So It works out for me. Tons of plumbers cringe when they hear l sharkbite”
Excellent, simple, direct, less talking is appreciated
Nice job for your situation. I need to replace my spicket but my cellar has 2x6 wall to a walk-in basement, therefore that spicket is way to long. I wanted to upgrade mine to a cold weather spicket but looks like I have replace mine with a regular short spicket.........
I would like to see a video covering replacement of the shut-off valve. My house was built mid 70's and the valve doesn't work, as well as being in a horrible location. I know I could hire a plumber, but with my experience I would also love to do the job. But as I do with everything, pre task planning dictates I should probably make sure the steps I have in my head are accurate.
Thanks for another great video!
Unless your good at soldering I don't recommend a large fitting like that, depending on age could be a screw on though. If the area is finished think of the damage that could be caused. I am fairly good at plumbing and do a small amount in a professional capacity, I would still hire it out for the peace of mind personally unless it was a trailer or screw on in an unfinished basement.
@@stich1960 It's currently soldered, but looks like it was probably "wet" while being done. More than likely replaced already. We have lived there for 21 years and it has been crap for at least a couple years.
I have checked with a couple local places (small and large business) and they want $500 plus to do it. That just seems silly. I can call the utilities to shut off the water and that's only $35 (off and on). I'm more than able to solder, but I have never done a soldered valve before. I do agree though, when I have enough doubt or have failed at similar jobs I call someone. Ex: replacement of a fuse panel, not gonna do it. Lol. The knowledge is there but the risk is high enough that's it is worth hiring it out.
@@Toyotajunkie I mean you do you. It's fairly risky imo around here it's hourly and would probably be closer to 300+ parts. I would still do it if it's finished at 500 because it comes with insurance
You can do the exact same steps with a shark bite ball valve and use pex instead of copper eliminating the soldering aspect. Would cost you around $100 hose bib, ball valve, and pex. As long as the angle from ball valve to hose bib isn't crazy you won't need to crimp anything.
I didn't know sharkbite made those, thanks. My lines have shutoff valves inside house so when the spigot starts leaking I can just shut it off, until I can fix it.
Nice! That is handy to have shutoff in place.
I'm interested to know how you did your repair on replacing the spigot in the wall. My son has no basement or crawl space and I need to find what part of the wall I need to cut out. I really love the shark bite pieces. Menards uses Aqualock which is similar to Sharkbite.
Great video, I'm glad we don't have frost here in California. I do have a question though. Our outdoor spigots have a anti siphon valve on them. When you turn off the water, there's always a spray of water comingout of the anti siphone valve. It's that normal. Can I just remove the valve from the spigot? Thanks
I would keep the valve in place but you can get a rebuild kit usually depending on the brand. Overall from your description I would say you are find and having some water go past the anti siphon valve when you shut the water off is common 👍
Scott, where can I see the video on repairing the bib when the pipes are enclosed behind drywall?
Open outside spigot after closing water supply and opening drain valve to break vacuum. Less water left in pipe.
Thanks for the feedback!
That downward slope is a big deal. We found that out the hard way last winter. There was no slope on ours and due to a freak ice storm the water inside froze and blew the faucet apart and there was water everywhere. For a replacement I'm going to use a couple of feet of PEX flexible pipe to replace the old galvanized steel that will allow me to get the bend required to give me slope.
How about extending an old spigot on a wall face to the outside corner of the wall? And also switching the spigot to a frost free one. Thanks!
thank you so very much- love to see the new drywall video!
Shark bites are good unions. You just don't want the pipe just de-bur the inside and outside of the pipe. It explicitly states that in the installation instructions. If you sand the pipe they may fail.
Interesting comment. I assume that the sanding of the pipe changes its diameter if sanded too much. Ir is it another reason?
Cool,that was great. Google must have seen my outdoor faucet? Thanks.
Hahaha, be careful with those smart home devices 👀
Liked this and it was informative. But. I was really hoping to change my spigot from the round handle to the lever style for quicker on and off. I checked your site but didn't see that. Perhaps you could consider a video on that style or explain how I change from the existing round handle. If it matters, this is a Florida install. Enjoy your videos.
Highly recommend adding a shut off valve for that spigot. These should have shut off valves so that the family can continue using water while you work on it when needed.
Can shark bite fittings be used on the main water supply line into the house before the main shut off valve for the house water supply?
Would this just be a Coupling? Or do you want to use a Sharkbite ball valve for you main water shutoff?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for responding. It would be a Skarkbite ball valve to replace the old style valve that’s connected ahead of the regulator inside the basement and is 58 years old. It is leaking like a shower spraying if I turn it to shut off the water supply inside the house to do any other repairs.
I was wondering if you ever did a video when replacing an outdoor faucet where the pipes go into a finished basement? I just found this video you made so I wish I had seen this video when you created it. I realize I am asking two years after you created this video.
I live in New England, I didn't go through all of this. All I did was add a ball vavle inside so in the winter I shut it off and run the rest of the water out. You just really have to remember to shut the water off.
Way to go ! Teaching people to use a garbage product, cause that's what more home owners need! Soldering isn't that hard and pex is even easier..way to take the easy way
He needed a video...
Great video as always. I just bought 2 new Sharkbite sillcocks for my house. Can you please link where you got the heavy duty mount screws? Much appreciated!
Great video, especially for clueless DIYers like me.
😂 thx!
How can I find your video about replacing outside faucet when the indoor wall is finished
drywall? The one I just watched was awesome about the frost proof replacement.