Thank you for your video Steve. What about when you have the scenario with I-Joists, I'm assuming you could no longer utilize a linear drain in this case, or the only solution would be to have the linear drain installed parallel with the I-Joist.
i never saw you actually install the waterproof membrane........also never saw actual finished product......i want to see how you finished that triangular edge that dives into the floor .......is this a schluter type pan/membrane ??? because i didnt see you install a sub drain either
Typically I paint on a liquid waterproofing. This being a steam I used the Schluter membrane over the QuickDrain slope panels. Walls and ceiling were also wrapped in membrane. The triangle wedge I filled with tile at the bench end and filled the rest with grout. The Prism grout is bomb proof. As long as the membrane overlaps the PVC drain all the water goes down the drain. No sub drain. I have photos I'll see if I can attach them somehow. FYI that house burned to the ground in the Marshall fire outside Boulder this time last year. Shame
In this example, how or could you do this with the floor joist running the opposite direction? In my case the floor joist (I Joist) is running the opposite direction of how my shower needs to be placed.
With the "I" joist running perpendicular to the drain, I suggest you put the drain at the entry. At the back wall you would need to cut into the joist and that is not recommended. As well I would use the "ProLine", stainless drain not the "Showerline" PVC. The stainless drain is more shallow.
Just batten screw 90x45mm to the joists and use one 19mm layer of ply on top. Will save your client heaps of money, give a smoother and better finish, and save 2mm in not using your brackets.
Well done, Sir. I appreciate your great explanations too. Would you be so kind as to please you provide a detailed list of materials, time and approximate cost for the job.
Rapid Recess brackets are available from Wedi for around $225. Linear drain from Quickdrainusa available through me or Ferguson Plumbing around $650. I can usually install the brackets, drain and waterproofing in a day.
I'm sorry if you were misled, I have never used drywall in a shower area. As well, liquid waterproofing is every bit as waterproof as membrane if applied to manufacturer specs.
Nice demonstration! Though I don't see the benefit of the rapid recess brackets vs adding 2x4 ledgers on regular 2x joists. I can see it being of more value on the engineered joists where you would have to do more work to add 2x ledgers. You seem like a good conscientious craftsman. I appreciate good folks who take extra time to make sure it's done right even if it winds up coming out of their bottom line.
Tight spaces and sometimes filled with venting. If there is crowing in the bays you won't know until you crack open the subfloor. If you have these it wont matter. I use lumber where I can, and these when I cannot.
I would and wouldn't trust 2x4s being married onto the joists to support the weight. Especially considering most people are going to be using non-structural screws or hell, even NAILS that have no sheer rating... Even though it's a small space, it's still not "technically" kosher....
Title of video *"YOUR BRACKET FAIL"* 🤔🤣🤣adding a peices of back wood to screws the plywood 🤣🤣🤣 So easy and cheaper to screwed a 2x4 to support your new plywood... 😞 Plus that metal thing you need to screwed to the top... SO YOU LOOSING SPACE WITH THE METAL AND SCREWS ON THE TOP OF THE BEAM. I'm wrong?
Moreover, looking at it, I don't see how that could possibly have been waterproofed with that second sheet of drywall... that gap wasn't waterproofed, then you slid the drain in to it... unless you squished a topical waterproof membrane into the slot and hoped it got 100% of the exposed gypsum etc, then I don't see how you can guarantee it be waterproofed.
The drain flangers wider than 1/2" and for the tile to tuck behind the drain cover the wall needs to be furred out 1/4" ruclips.net/video/SjFYWRiSbZw/видео.html
Is there any reason why i couldn't put my linear drain where you walk into the shower (normally where the curb is) instead of at the back of the shower?
In this applicationi, the linear shower drain would be running at an angle, and it would not drain properly. The only other way to do this would be put it in the center, then slope from both walls inwards, or put it all the way to the shower trim side and slope it in the opposite direction. However, I'm not even sure how that'll work, because I would assume there was a glass wall in this application on the left side, opposite the bench.
Disappointed you didnt put soomething more than a piece of plywood in to support that piece of plywood. Should of headered it off or sistered the joyce! Really should of ripped plywood other direction. And why not rip old floor out to center of joyce???? Show actual work. But nice clean job
I actually found them on my own google search, they were 16-18"x4' and they were pretty cheap, I want to say it was going to cost me less than $100 for my 3.5'x3.5' shower. I am going to have to look through my history, though, because the tab isn't on my browser anymore and it's been at least a month-2 months. Good thing I don't use my computer all that much. Here is the website the guy used, though: www.noblecompanyonlinestore.com/c-17-pro-slope-kits.aspx
This is fantastic. Thanks for taking time to share your install. Very well explained.
If I am putting down a subflooring over my whole floor couldn't I just sit my shower pan in the old floor because it would be lower?
Why didnt you show us the membrane install?? Kind of key to the whole process!!
Thank you for your video Steve. What about when you have the scenario with I-Joists, I'm assuming you could no longer utilize a linear drain in this case, or the only solution would be to have the linear drain installed parallel with the I-Joist.
Yes the TJI joists would have to run parallel to the drain, or place the drain at the threshold and slope from the back wall.
i never saw you actually install the waterproof membrane........also never saw actual finished product......i want to see how you finished that triangular edge that dives into the floor .......is this a schluter type pan/membrane ??? because i didnt see you install a sub drain either
Typically I paint on a liquid waterproofing. This being a steam I used the Schluter membrane over the QuickDrain slope panels. Walls and ceiling were also wrapped in membrane. The triangle wedge I filled with tile at the bench end and filled the rest with grout. The Prism grout is bomb proof. As long as the membrane overlaps the PVC drain all the water goes down the drain. No sub drain. I have photos I'll see if I can attach them somehow. FYI that house burned to the ground in the Marshall fire outside Boulder this time last year. Shame
In this example, how or could you do this with the floor joist running the opposite direction? In my case the floor joist (I Joist) is running the opposite direction of how my shower needs to be placed.
With the "I" joist running perpendicular to the drain, I suggest you put the drain at the entry. At the back wall you would need to cut into the joist and that is not recommended. As well I would use the "ProLine", stainless drain not the "Showerline" PVC. The stainless drain is more shallow.
That thing is going to leak like crazy.
Could be i did romain shower manytime but not his way never leak you have to know what you doing i use shluter system
Using drywall screws to attach the brackets - the only thing holding up your subfloor - is not a great idea. Those screws are not structural.
Should he have used nails instead?
@@jayrob7418 Nails or screws, if appropriate size. Definitely not drywall screws.
That shock at 5:49 was hilarious 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I want to do this but my question is, is there a reason why you didn't you take less off the joists for newbies like me?! Thank you
Nice job! Question, why not just nail 2"x4" studs instead of the metal brackets?
They make the brackets incase there are TJI joists as well
That’s what I did.
Just batten screw 90x45mm to the joists and use one 19mm layer of ply on top. Will save your client heaps of money, give a smoother and better finish, and save 2mm in not using your brackets.
Cut the 2/10 by 1 1/4 then reenforce it way simple i did it manytime by the way i dont use metric ☠️
Do you have a video on how to install a shower panel with type of shower
Well done, Sir. I appreciate your great explanations too. Would you be so kind as to please you provide a detailed list of materials, time and approximate cost for the job.
6,000+. Material list you can google.
Rapid Recess brackets are available from Wedi for around $225. Linear drain from Quickdrainusa available through me or Ferguson Plumbing around $650. I can usually install the brackets, drain and waterproofing in a day.
@@antarestile3512 I'm coming to Colorado soon if you need a great installer 34 yrs Exp Installing Marble,tile and terrazzo thanks
What tool do you use to cut along the wall. Circular saw leaves too much subfloor between the wall
I use a Sawzall. There is a circular saw with a flush cutting blade but I didn't care to make the investment.
Where did you get the subfloor lowering kit? Sky number available? Thank you
Go to the Rapid Recess website and they might direct you. You might also find it through your local Weidi distributor.
#1 Drywall in a wet area? Absolutely not. #2 there is no waterproofing membrane. There are several other errors with this installment .
I'm sorry if you were misled, I have never used drywall in a shower area. As well, liquid waterproofing is every bit as waterproof as membrane if applied to manufacturer specs.
Timber floor for a shower ?
Ok this is canded camera right,
I figured Allan Funt was going to jump out.
Nice demonstration!
Though I don't see the benefit of the rapid recess brackets vs adding 2x4 ledgers on regular 2x joists. I can see it being of more value on the engineered joists where you would have to do more work to add 2x ledgers.
You seem like a good conscientious craftsman. I appreciate good folks who take extra time to make sure it's done right even if it winds up coming out of their bottom line.
Tight spaces and sometimes filled with venting. If there is crowing in the bays you won't know until you crack open the subfloor. If you have these it wont matter. I use lumber where I can, and these when I cannot.
I would and wouldn't trust 2x4s being married onto the joists to support the weight. Especially considering most people are going to be using non-structural screws or hell, even NAILS that have no sheer rating... Even though it's a small space, it's still not "technically" kosher....
With the ease of these brackets, you will never use 2X4s again. Particularly if you don't have access from below.
omg.... stay away from my house
How does it slope?
The Quickdrain kit I purchase comes with PET foam slope material. 2 coats of liquid waterproofing gives you a waterproof pan.
This guy does amature work wrong all the way cant belive is that crap🤘
Title of video
*"YOUR BRACKET FAIL"*
🤔🤣🤣adding a peices of back wood to screws the plywood 🤣🤣🤣
So easy and cheaper to screwed a 2x4 to support your new plywood...
😞
Plus that metal thing you need to screwed to the top... SO YOU LOOSING SPACE WITH THE METAL AND SCREWS ON THE TOP OF THE BEAM.
I'm wrong?
Why you don't show how to put the membrane
There is no membrane unless it's a steam shower. I use liquid waterproofing over the slope panels, tape in the corners, and up the walls.
Drywall in a steam shower? Wow
If he membranes the Entire shower It is really the same as Any other backer board for showers.
Drywall shit denshield the best all the way just mesh tape the joint then waterproof
Why did you use 2 sheets of drywall on the bench? I've never heard of that before.
Moreover, looking at it, I don't see how that could possibly have been waterproofed with that second sheet of drywall... that gap wasn't waterproofed, then you slid the drain in to it... unless you squished a topical waterproof membrane into the slot and hoped it got 100% of the exposed gypsum etc, then I don't see how you can guarantee it be waterproofed.
The drain flangers wider than 1/2" and for the tile to tuck behind the drain cover the wall needs to be furred out 1/4" ruclips.net/video/SjFYWRiSbZw/видео.html
Hey Antares Tile, I live 2 blocks away in your neighborhood. See ya around!
What's the name of the bracket kit? Website?
Rapid Recess is the brand name.
Is there any reason why i couldn't put my linear drain where you walk into the shower (normally where the curb is) instead of at the back of the shower?
In this applicationi, the linear shower drain would be running at an angle, and it would not drain properly.
The only other way to do this would be put it in the center, then slope from both walls inwards, or put it all the way to the shower trim side and slope it in the opposite direction. However, I'm not even sure how that'll work, because I would assume there was a glass wall in this application on the left side, opposite the bench.
Don't do what he says. It is almost all wrong in so many ways. Just stop.
Disappointed you didnt put soomething more than a piece of plywood in to support that piece of plywood. Should of headered it off or sistered the joyce! Really should of ripped plywood other direction. And why not rip old floor out to center of joyce???? Show actual work. But nice clean job
Ok commented to so ! Cant watch. Horrible... Lost me at the horrible idea of filling with mud
Like 10 thousand years to explain... You need to pay me hahahha No. I refuse.... fast forward from 19 seconds to the last part. Unbearable, totally!!!
Completely antiquated and it will fail
where can i find those sloped panels?
Those are ProSlope styrofoam panels. Order online or at Dal Tile, which are all over the country.
@@bouldervon7487 I can't find the slopes that you showed in this video on the Noble
web site? Can you elaborate?
Rapid Recess is the slope system
Rapid Recess is the system used here.
I actually found them on my own google search, they were 16-18"x4' and they were pretty cheap, I want to say it was going to cost me less than $100 for my 3.5'x3.5' shower. I am going to have to look through my history, though, because the tab isn't on my browser anymore and it's been at least a month-2 months. Good thing I don't use my computer all that much.
Here is the website the guy used, though:
www.noblecompanyonlinestore.com/c-17-pro-slope-kits.aspx
Where do you get the panels that drop on the brackets? I don’t see these included as part of the kit
he cut those himself from plywood. Probably 3/4in plywood
The rapid recessed site doesn’t sell anything. Any other suggestions for the brackets?
Rapid Recess brackets are available through Wedi.
@@antarestile3512 Yes, at $350 dollars for kit, way too expensive for a bunch of metal brackets...
@@queensmarine6506 cut the 2/10 then re enforce it 350$ for bracket WTF
Rite
Talk too much