$50 JACKPOT PAYOFF !!! : MADE IN JAPAN KENMORE 158.19411 BONUS: HOW TO REMOVE THE BOTTOM (video 399)
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- If you want to be the smartest one in your circle of sewing friends, scoop up one of these marvels of precision workmanship for $50.
You’ll be just as brilliant if you buy one for $400, except you’ll just be the one who spent a little more to prove their moxie.
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I just picked up one for $175, beautiful condition, no scratches. Got it from my sewing machine repair store, they had gone over it. I think it was a good deal. I have to laugh; crafters tell me I had to spend at least $2k for a machine. This does the job.
That’s a great buy. I sell them for around $300 (serviced and guaranteed) when I’m fortunate enough to have one for sale.
They usually sell rather quickly.
If you sew on one, you realize what high end quality is all about.
It’s like driving a Lexus. So smooth.
😎👍🏼
You've been so incredibly helpful to me. I wanted to share my fun news! It happened today! Fb marketplace had a 19411 for sale $50. No accessories or the top front cover. I offered $35 and the seller took it. I'm hoping and have my fingers crossed that it will be fairly easy to find a replacement top front cover but, if all else fails I have a 1931 and those parts are interchangeable. Thanks again for all your helpful advice!
You’re welcome. Good job on landing that bargain trophy. 😎👍
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 👍🏼😊👍🏼
Bought mine from a lady online. Met in the parking lot of a local grocery store. Use it every day. Love the buttonhole attachment system. I hated making buttonholes with my Elsa but now, I put a buttonhole in everything I can. High shank makes changing presser feet easy. I was able to pick up a Kenmore cabinet that it will fit into. Kenmore sold some of the best cabinets.
You’ve got a good setup there. Your sewing situation is totally under control.
Now you can concern yourself with things like the weather, rising prices, obnoxious people, and other more pressing issues. 🤣🤣😎👍🏼
As soon as i saw you had a new one 10 minutes ago i had to tune in. Thanks for that. I’ll be oiling a friend kenmore this weekend and i think it is that model.After that video she will think i’m a pro.
I appreciate you watching. Thanks. 😎👍
Thanks for showing this. I have a Kenmore 158.156 that I love. It is so quiet. You had me nervous working on it while it was plugged in. Glad you realized it. Keep them coming.
Like I said, today is my first day. I’m likely to get smarter and better as time goes on. 😂😂😂
🤣🤣@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
Saw a 148 in a thrift shop today. Already have one. This one was dirty so I asked for some handi-wipes and cleaned it the outside and did a cursory wipe on the bobbin and race. It was $60 including the desk cabinet. It ran pretty well. Too bad I had no oil with me. Still on the hunt for a 158 like this one in your video. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge and wisdom. It has been very useful for me. 👍👍
I appreciate that you took the time to write a positive comment that supports our goal on this site, that we’re here to help each other with helpful information.😎👍
It has been a few months since I bought my first Sears Kenmore 158 machine. Well, I liked it so much, I was able to pick up two more in great condition. The second one looked like it wasn't ever used, it also came with accessories and the manual, and it was the exact same model as the first, it runs amazing. Last week I saw someone had one for sale in my area at an estate sale for $100, great condition with attachments and manual. I oiled it up and it works great too. I am set forever. LOL
@@annakitty7983 you are probably all set for “several forevers” with a collection like that.
At least you’ve illustrated how the process works when employed correctly.
Good work. 😎👍🏼
Congratulations to the new owner. You got a better than new machine for a gift . Thank the good Lord. ☕🙂👍
Yes a blessing can be many things. Sometimes it’s an awesome sewing machine.😎👍
Paid mine 20$the kenmore ultrastitch 10 at the local thrift store last week ! and i have to admit, i really like this machine
You also know what a prize it is. I’ve serviced them for folks who saw them sitting on the curb for trash day, brought them to me, and are sewing on them years later. They can’t stop telling the whole world what a great day that turned out to be. Amazing. 😎👍
Thanks for showing that bottom plate business! I have a 1913 and a 1760 - at least one of them has that same configuration. I managed to massage it off and back on again, but this demo helped for the next time I need to access the underside of the machine.
You’re welcome. It can be a challenging puzzle. 😎👍🏼
I recently got a Kenmore 158.19471 for $50 at a garage sale, and I also have a Singer 421G. The Kenmore sews circles around AND can handle the bulky seams I have in bag making, that my Juki TL-18QVP cannot handle - I have just sold the Juki!
I’m familiar with that story. It’s a common one. The proof is in the application.
When it’s the right machine for the job, it makes itself known pretty quickly.
Excellent explanation of how to remove the bottom plate. When I did it to clean/ lube it was kind of a challenge.
I should bookmark this video for next time.
It’s sometimes easier to see it it done, to make that imprint on our brain’s memory card. At least, it is for me.
I didn’t know anything about RUclips until I used it to help show me the proper way to install a new ceiling fan many years ago. Now it’s like having a reference library of useful information.
Arguably the best domestic sewing machine EXCEPT for the Singer 201-2. I have 3 slant-o-matics, and I prefer the 158-1941. It has better speed control, a wider zigzag stitch, plus the reverse stitches. As far as longevity, both are excellent choices. Another version of the 158-1941, is the 158-1931. Same machine but also uses cams. Very rare and VERY EXPENSIVE.
Line them up and I’ll take them all. That’s a respectable menagerie of awesomeness. You’re discernment is admirable. 😎👍
Good talk❤, comparatively speaking
@@cyncyn747 thanks. 😎👍🏼
I enjoy watching your videos. I have a 158.1941.2 with a center home position. that my mom gave me in early 80s when she stopped sewing. I love this machine, and used your videos to take covers off and clean, oil and grease it well. In one of your videos from several years ago you stated these machines like to be oiled regularly. So I try and oil it once a month or if starts sounding more noisy. 1. Would you please show how to fill the grease compartment under the bobbin area, I wasn't sure if grease went in just a section or if entire area was to have grease inserted since there was some old grease all over in the compartment. 2. Also what # would be average for the presser foot pressure regulator button?I never know where to begin to set that regulator. Thank you for any help you can give me. Your video I watched didn't clarify exactly where the grease was to go under there. Keep sharing your knowledge in your awesome videos, I have learned so much from watching.
That gear box is sealed and doesn’t require any notice unless it’s been opened and the grease has hardened.
If you do open it to inspect the grease and it’s hardened, you can scrape it out and fill the area with Vaseline petroleum jelly.
If it hasn’t hardened, it’s fine.
That area isn’t subject to high temperatures, and grease doesn’t go bad like milk or yogurt.
I have one except for the free arm. It's a great machine and very user friendly.
@@lindagardner4746 yes it is. 😎👍🏼
(I wanna pick up a comment I made on Video 393,, in re to the Kenmore 158.19461,, the Feed Control Lever)
I managed to get a downloaded copy of the manual for the K 1946, a machine somewhat simular to this K1941.
My concern about the Feed Control Lever involved it not raising or lowering the Feed Dogs at all.
Upon reading the 1946 manual, the 1946 has the button holing dial (a knob inside a dial ) that has the "F", "R" and orange dot choices
The 1946 uses the feed dogs in conjuction with the F&R settings to do a button hole.
You cant/shouldnt try using a buttonhole device on the presser foot either.
So the Feed Control Lever on my 1946 is completely vestigial.
When the bottom pan was removed on the 1941, I could see there is more parts in place around the bobbin zone in regards to its Feed Control level mechanism,, vs., my 1946 model.
Mystery Solved!
Thanks for workable information that is likely to help someone solve an issue or answer a question.
We’ve got a lot of great minds out there, and that all together makes us very knowledgeable about these machines.
I am on the hunt for one of these. We will see how it goes.
Wish me luck.
@@stormyrayn2104 good luck 🍀.
was this made before or after the 158.13510? I have a 13510 made in Japan that I got for Christmas back in 1977. Is the servicing and information the same as this one? My only issue with my machine is the tension. The bobbin thread shows from the top between the top stitches. Do you have a video on how to fix that? My tension is at 4 and my top tension button is half way up. These videos are very informative and helpful.
My knob to lower the feed dogs will not move down. How do I get it to work? I oiled it but so far no luck. Help please. Love your knowledge about sewing machines. ty
Use penetrating oil. It has a solvent to dissolve the old oil that has turned to glue because it hasn’t been used for a long time.
Be patient and it will work.
Ty
@@whisperingpinesrugssewingm8085 👍🏼😎
You can't go wrong with a Kenmore 158. I have several of them won't get rid of any of them. I don't have this one but I have the 17600 with the cams. I was even able to find the steel cam 20 person that sold it didn't even know what they had. They just were selling a set of cams and the cam 20 was in this set of cams so I picked that sucker up for about 20 bucks
Right place right time. Well done.😎👍
Thank you going to try first to oil
I just found your channel. Great work!!! I'd love your thoughts... I just bought a Kenmore 148.15600 at Goodwill for $25. Still had the original box and packing, accessories and instruction booklet (no case). Made in Japan. It's barely used. I cleaned and oiled - runs great. What are your opinions on this model? This is my first of this era, and so far, I'm very impressed. Anything I should watch for with this model? Thanks.
PLEASE HELP ..Itook your advice and found one looks new pd $175, drive two hrs but got home and being excited …had to see if it would work on straight stitch run a little to test and abt a few minutes locked up the hand wheel, all the others working fine. What do I need to do. 😊
hello, do you have any videos on the 1352 12 stich Kenmore? I do not have a manual and trying to get the bottom off of it. I have the screws all out I think and it wont budge. Do not want to break anything by forcing it. its not like the 1941 or the 1914 that I have. can you help me out. thank you. love your channel.
Search the perimeter of the base for a random hidden screw. Open the bobbin area flap to see if one is hiding there on the left side bottom cover.
Sometimes a foot pad has to be removed as well.
To the right of the bobbin area there’s a plastic tab that often hinders the operation as well.
I may have a video addressing that issue among the 425 videos. Good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 it was the foot pads that needed to be removed. didn't know this. got it off, thank you.
Great videos! I was under the assumption that the 158.19411 and 158.19412 were ALL metal - however, I was told today that the 19412 has a non-metal (I don’t know if they meant nylon or plastic) gear for the non-straight stitches. True or false? Thank you!
I’m not sure about that info, nor would I be concerned.
The drive gears are steel, and they are the ones that matter.
The drive gears get the stress and need to be made of steel, which they are.
The pattern followers have zero stress and are made of nylon quite often without any issues whatsoever. 😎👍🏼
I have a 158-19412 not sure if it works but great condition physically. Has the case and owners manual. Whats the value you think?
@@bronsoncharkowski4273 do an online search using the machine information followed by the words for sale.
Compare yours to the others to get the price of the current market.
Randy, would this model fit in a table. I have a White/Kenmore table in need of a machine.
A flat bed, square cornered sewing cabinet will only accommodate a flat bed machine. A free arm machine has to have a special cutout that fits that specific machine.
Hi Randy. You are very right about not shipping machines as stuff breaks off. Can you tell me what the thread size is for the spool pins on a 158.1941 Kenmore? I know that #6-40 might be the correct threads per inch, but it is too small. Metric?
When you order spool
Pins, there will be fine thread and coarse thread. You want fine thread.
If you order them for a Kenmore 158 series, they will be fine threads.
What are the advantage of the dual belt system?
@@DLong-wp8su it increases the torque and raises the puncture power of the needle.
Hi. I need your help on a kenmore 158.1060 machine. I couldn't find any videos on this one. I took the base off and opened the bottom of the machine to check if it needed oiled and can't figure out how to put the screws back in to secure the bottom and the base. Can you help? I checked searspartsdirect and got a schematic but it hasn't helped me. I would be soooo appreciative!
@@pattymcl2667 the next one I get in for service, I’ll do that. I don’t know when that will be.
I used mine tonight wow it was fast!!!
Excellent. I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching. 😎👍🏼
Hi Randy, Thanks for all the videos I learned a lot. I am looking for a vintage sewing machine that can sew 6mm stitch length. I have a Pfaff kinda of vintage from 1989 ( Tiptronic 1151) it can sew a 6 mm stitch. But I am looking for vintage all metal or cast iron with a 6mm stitch. And I see only 4 mm or 6 stitches per inch. Maybe you know one? Pfaff 30 can make 5mm, but I was able to get only 4.5 mm from her.
Six stitches per inch is about as long as you’re going to find in most household type machines.
Make sure you’re applying as much presser bar pressure as you can to get the maximum length.
I was wondering if you ever compared a 1941 and a 1914 Kenmore? I bought both in the last two months and would like to know the difference and are they almost the same other than the 1941 does not take cams and the1914 takes cams and can do a chain stitch. Are they basically the same?
If they are both:
1) Kenmores
2) 15 class
3) front load bobbins
I would say there’s not much difference. That’s what makes them excellent.
Any top loading bobbin Kenmore is from another realm as far as I’m concerned. They usually have issues that aren’t curable.
I have a 158. 14002. I got it for $25 and oil it up and got things moving but cannot get the white stitches to work at all. It is similar to this one where you have to switch from the white dot to the red dot The reverse works, the zigzag works, but the white stitches do not form I've oiled add use penetrating oil and got everything moving as far as I can tell. I've been through different videos and the troubleshooting areas are running the way they should. The only thing I could not find a video on is how the lever or arm in conjunction with the white to Red lever is supposed to be moving. Do you have a video on fixing that area. I haven't found any videos that go into detail in that specific area.
The stitch length has to be set to its longest length.
The stitch width has to be set to its widest width.
Cycle the pattern dial and watch the mechanism to see if it moves up and down on the post.
It’s most likely lacking lubrication in a key area, providing that you haven’t used a screwdriver on anything.
Oil it, cycle it.
Be patient. It will come around.
I have a 158 and a 148. I just repaired the 148 with a broken zigzag cam gear, and was wondering if you have any advice on syncing up the front and back stitch selector cams.
The worm gear that is on the top main shaft that drives the zig zag cam gear will have to be set to the proper timing.
There are two set screws that secure it to the shaft.
Loosen the two set screws and hold that gear motionless, while rotating the main shaft.
I usually do it in quarter turn increments until I get it real close.
Once it’s real close to being timed to a close pendulum arc, you can fine tune it to perfection by sliding it left or right in small increments.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 the part that's out of sync is on the stitch selector know itself. The worm gear part seems to be in sync (although I'm no expert). I wish I could send pictures, lol
@@seffssweetsstitches2897 if the worm gear is in sync, it would mean that the pendulum swing has a perfect arc and when the zig zag begins on the left side moving upwards, it continues in an upside down “U” until it contacts the fabric on the right side moving downwards.
If it moves in any other way, it is out of sync.
How do i clean my machine? I agree, bedt machine ever!!
@@RUTHLangley-v6x i use windex and an absorbent cloth.
Mercy! After reading the comments below, I'm convinced I need to grab every 158 series I come across. Do you really think one of these 158s are the equivalent to a $16K Bernina? I have two granddaughters that are going to love me someday.
I would say not the equivalent, but superior. In 20 years, many electronic, plastic machines will be obsolete and unrepairable. These classic Kenmores will be sewing. With 51 years in the business, I’ve watched it happen repeatedly.
It doesn’t make me a seer of future events. It just makes me a spectator of recent history.
Believe me, when it comes to watching the demise of the sewing machine industry, I’ve had a front row seat.
You are right on. @@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
There are many differences between the current Bernina’s and a 158 Kenmore, but for my 2 cents the Kenmore is much easier to use and will last far longer because it’s not computerized. You can meet most every sewing need with it. So much so that I’ll never buy another computerized machine, despite their fancy stitches and conveniences.
@@ccreel64 I hear you. I’m in agreement. 😎👍🏼
They are more than equivalent, they are far superior than any of the new plastic/electronic sewing machines.
Folks tend to think that newer is better. The exception to that rule is :sewing machines.
Old school repairmen are going away to that great repair center in the sky.
No new ones are filling the void.
The new machines are failing on multiple levels and can’t be repaired because of parts unavailability and lack of repair personnel.
You can spend 16k for an eventual doorstop, get $129 disposable machines at Wallyworld, or find a quality 158 series Kenmore, that was designed to last for generations, and learn to service it yourself.
That’s the purpose of my channel.
Hi Randy, just picked up this machine from a thrift store. It’s stuck on the straight stitch. Not sure how to fix it, any pointers?
Watch some of my videos that address those issues. There are many.
Right off, if it has been sitting unused for an extended time, it will need to be serviced.
I have a video concerning that as well.
not related to this video but what are your thoughts on a Kenmore 48? I'm buying one and its in really rough shape, but I think it will clean up ok. no cams, but does have the manual. I'm getting it today. Do you have any video;s on these?
I’m pretty sure I have at least one video about a Kenmore 48.
They’re awesome Japanese made machines.
Oil it up and it will sew for another 50 years. 😎👍🏼
Hi Randy - what's the difference between the 19411 and the 19412? Thank you!!!
The 19412 is the newer model. Unless they’re playing a trick on us and numbering them backwards.
Maybe there’s a cosmetic difference. Maybe the light switch is in a different place. Maybe the reverse lever is different. Maybe there’s a difference in the color scheme of the logo.
Maybe the bobbin winder mounting bolts have two extra threads and are a full two millimeters longer.
Maybe someone out there can answer that one for you.
I can honestly say that I have no idea. Only guesses.
I do know that structurally and operationally, they’re most likely identical.
I wouldn’t refuse to have one instead of the other.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you, Randy - I know you love the 19411, not sure if 19412 is as good! I'm looking at a nice 19412 tomorrow!
@@sonopoly 😎👍
If I remember correctly the 19410 is low shank, the 19411 is high shank and the 19412 is super high shank. The difference is likely in the needle bar.
@@ccreel64 Thank you - I bought the 19412 and it is amazing!
I just acquired my grandmother’s Kenmore 158 just like this. I can not figure out how to drop the feed dogs. Can they be dropped?
Look on your needle plate and see if there is a round hole on either side of the feed dogs.
If there is, the machine came with a metal plate that fits into place there, and there is no drop feed.
No holes by feed dogs.
@@amberwilhite776 look for the lever to drop the feed dogs on the front of the machine, to the right of the bobbin area. If it has one, it’s going to be obvious in that area.
Yep! There's a lever! Where are you located?
@@amberwilhite776 Fort worth Texas USA planet earth.
Awesome
Indeed. 😎👍🏼
I bought my wife one at a resale store for $29
@@skyetaylor1389 keep it clean and oiled for a lifetime of service. Good find. 😎👍
All of my Kenmore 158s I've not spent over $50 for any of them. My 17600 I spent $ $30 My 1914 I spent $20
I’m wondering how much longer we can expect the general sewing public to remain completely in the dark about these machines.
I remember when I could get a nice Singer 221 Featherweight with all the trimmings for around $100. Then, one day, they were $200, then $300, and eventually they are at crazy prices like $500 and up.
I see them selling for $1K to $1250 now and it’s amazing to observe the bidding at the auctions.
It won’t be long and the Kenmore 158’s will join the show.😎👍
When? I'll tell ya when - when we quit shouting with glee about these marvels! Some folks just buy them to be on the popular bandwagon - the "look what I have" folks.
Wonder when manufacturers are going to wake up & build solid machines sgain?
@@deborahegan1708 can you imagine what the cost would be to replicate one of those 158 series machines that were made in Japan?
The top of the line Bernina sell for $16,500. They would be in that range, and would ultimately be 100 times better.😎👍
STEAL!! I got mine for $65, but I had to piece together all the accessories.
That’s still a heck of a deal.
I super- tune them (after I buy it) and people line up to give me $300 for them.
To me, they’re worth way more than that, but folks only have so much money.
I know that soon they’ll be more scarce, and then more pricey.
3/26/2024. Randy
This past weekend of 'junkin at the thrift stores, I picked up 2 Kenmore 148 series machines,,when I usually never find them at all.
148.15700 free arm, all metal gearing, ...runs/sews good
148.13101- Beautiful Disaster!😢($18) Its a teaching machine, learned something about cam stack assemblys with this one.
It was very clean, no scuffs, has all the knobs, and the Kenmore acc's cardboard box was prestine.
I could get a few revolutions out of the hand wheel, then a hard stop occured.
I did an autopsy on it, and removed the cam pack guts, and the shaft had a warped/bent runout problem, and the butterfly gear jammed up the worm gear driving it.
Look closer and fiddling with the cam shaft, I accidently realized that the cam/butterfly gear shaft, has eccentric adjustment capability.
I have the machine running (no stitching yet) ,,,Zig Zag needs some tuning.
This 148.1310 is a departure in the way it has 3 rotational knob (one is a 2 fer' ).
Compared to Kenmore 158's I can switch stitch type knob under power, with no issues.
If I make a make a stitch-type selection,, under power,, with this 148.1310 it will crash the needle (to the left).
I guess I better break out my Brother Label Maker and add some caution stickers on this 148.😊
👍
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 After 20 feet of test stitching, it sews like an $18 machine. Fast straight stitching, the zig zag isnt very wide.
@@robotbuster1487 two reliable machines for sure.
PLEASE HELP ..Itook your advice and found one looks new pd $175, drive two hrs but got home and being excited …had to see if it would work on straight stitch run a little to test and abt a few minutes locked up the hand wheel, all the others working fine. What do I need to do. 😊
@@pjbutler7977 it will need to be serviced. If it’s not lubricated,it will lock up. I have a three part video series on oiling it.