KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 янв 2018
- Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out...
Shows how to inspect KTM DDS clutch and replace the inner hub dampers and clutch plates.
2017 KTM 250EXC
KTM Clutch Kit Part # 54832011110
Tokyo Offroad Oil Drain Tool: www.tokyooffroad.com/product/o... 
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Probably the best how-to videos in RUclips as far as KTM goes. Slavens Racing is good, but I think Tokyo Offroad has him beat. Excellent, your best video to date.
And yet another great video going into my "KTM maintenance" folder...Excellent.
I did my first top end rebuild watching your videos and now I’ll be attempting my first clutch rebuild watching your videos! Thank you for the time and effort you put into these!
Pleased to hear that you are finding the videos helpful...
some of the best instructional videos going cheers Tokyo Off Road👍
Just amazing. Thank you for sharing.
So refreshing to see a video like this that pays attention to important details. Thanks Tokyo Offroad!
The best instructional videos for maintaining a KTM. Great job!
Replaced my clutchpack today using the detailed procedure here. The info about checking the spring plate flatness primed me for when I discovered it was concave with the new plates, and I immediately knew what to do to rectify it. Spot on! Excellent video. (Also a member of Kansai Riders)
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
I love the attention to detail on your video. Makes rebuilding clutch packs less intimidating
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very good instructor!
Love your no-nonsense instructional videos! Best I've found for my KTM.
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos
Damn boy! you are seriously detailed! You are the kind of person that would be working on my factory edition 450sxf. Good Stuff!
Thank you. This video increased my confidence. And I must say, WOW what a difference the new ones made. I just bought a ‘21 sxf 450 and had heard about this maintenance item so I ordered the Rekluse set figuring it may be due. So much smoother, quieter and best of all, no more chain slap rolling through the pits!! The chain slapping around was ridiculous.
Thanks for the video. I never did that style of clutch before and I just bought a 2018ktm xcw 6 days. So the clutch design is very different than my 2008 KTM 200 Xcw.
Another great tutorial, thanks for putting time into these videos.
I rebuilt my top end recently following your top end video, very helpful thank you.
Can you make a video on how to clean a bike properly. With 160 hours on your bike and mine has sixty mine looks like it's done 560 compared. Your swing arm looks new, mine is all stained from mud, same with my hubs.
The best videos on RUclips for riding and mechanical tutorials.
Awesome work cheers from Australia.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Regarding cleaning, I don't really do anything special, other than clean it regularly (usually after every ride) and store the bike in the garage in a dry environment. I show how I clean my bike in this video: ruclips.net/video/MEeb81HS1Ec/видео.html
Brilliant video as usual. I have lost count of the amount of times I have referenced your videos while working on my bike. One question. What is the thickness of the fibre plates when new. To see what loss you occurred with them all reading about the same on inspection. Thanks
thanks for the good video! i need to do this today to my 300 tpi :)
Your TPI clutch should be exactly the same as the 2017 clutch shown in the video. Hope it overhaul goes well...
Excelente video! Muy claro y útil. Gracias por compartirlo.
Un saludo desde Argentina!!!
Your videos are fantastic, thanks for sharing them.
Thanks a million. All worked out perfectly. Appreciate the attention to detail. Even going make a tool from the old clutch plate...👍🙏
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful. The old clutch plate holder tool works really well so I can recommend making one...
@ minute 20:36
I've got the same kit for my Husaberg 2013 Te 300.
I've measured the metal disks and found:
4 disks with 1.3~1.34 mm and only 3 with 1.4mm. I wonder if that's just a fabrication variation.
I've mounted the internal 1mm with the "S" mark as you mentioned, then 2x 1.3mm, then 3x 1.4mm in the middle, the other 2x 1.3mm and the top 1mm disk.
Tested the bike this weekend and worked just fine.
Great channel, great videos! Best regards from Brazil!
Thanks for the video! My new clutch set has three 1.3mm metal plates. What's the logic for putting these thinner ones to the inside? Thanks
well done, 3 of my dampers were broken in two. the other 3 were spread out, lots of play. easy fix.
piuteben what does the bike do when those dampers need to be replaced?
Just done this :) great help thanks, on this 250tpi 2018, one of the dampers had actually broken and worn right down uneven on one side!!
Best and most detailed videos. Thanks a lot for this from Brazil!
Will help me rebuild my Husaberg TE 300 2013 clutch
Pleased you found the video useful...
Great video and very informative as usual, however it’s extremely difficult to take anything you say seriously after I watched your best modification video. My favorite was the power band! Please keep up the great vids.
Pleased to hear you enjoy the videos. The mods shown in the top 5 mods video are for unreal gains...
One of the best video for ktm... Hope you make rebuilding the engine👊👊👊
Make note: clutch cover bolts, there are long sizes there. The shorter of the longer clutch cover bolts goes in by the starter. If you install the long one there it will not tighten the clutch cover. It bottoms out on the outer cases of the starter area. Learned that the hard way.
Nice vid I liked your cardboard template for the bolts ,I have 2 x 2007 450 sxf engines which we retrofitted the dds clutch into ,I really like this clutch over the earlier conventional spring clutch .cheersd
i like how u work, really nice
Thanks this was very helpful to watch before attempting myself. Few minor differences on my 2020 500 EXC-F. Manual says torque is 80NM and no loctite. Everything else was pretty much the same.
What kind of effect can loose rubber dampeners have on the bike? I just ordered a new set as mine are loose themselves. The bike feels like the clutch is dragging at mid-to-top end. After inspecting the clutch, this was the only item of notice.
What is the concern with the discolouration? Worried about it becoming brittle or warping? Looking at mine and likely coming up on needing to change the clutch pack. Great informative video!
David Thegan - Things to check for are heavy discoloration, hot spots and warpage. Discoloration indicates the plates got very hot. When I changed my clutch in the video it still worked fine and the fiber plates were still in spec. But due to the hours I thought it would be best to change the clutch pack anyway as I don’t want to have issues while riding.
Interesting my OEM kit for my 2017 TE250 came with One 1.0mm S, Three 1.3mm, Three 1.4mm, and one 1.0mm. I wonder if they have updated the pack since you made this video. Measured with calipers and clearly shown different then your video
My kit had 3 metal plates, too. But not in the same quantity as yours. I put my thickest plates in the middle, as my worn pack was the worst there. More metal = more heat capacity, I figure. So they're setup as 1.0-1.3-1.3-1.4-1.4-1.4-1.3.-1.3-1.0.
I had dampers break from heat cycles in ktm that only had 40 hrs....good job Mark
Jerry Mangan - The time the dampers are sitting in the oil is also important. I think a good replacement interval is once a year, that way you should minimize any issues.
Just used the video to replace my clutch and now it's working perfect! thanks Mark! :)
Nir Hason - That’s great. I’m pleased you found the video useful...
@@TokyoOffroad I must say that the most tricky part was tightening the 6 bolts of the belleville plate.
Great video as always - used it to inspect and change my first clutch on my '16 300XC.
Interesting that although my metal discs measured 1.0mm on the inside and outside, the four discs (going inside to outside of the bike) after the "S" disc measured 1.3mm, and the remaining four discs measured 1.4mm.
My bike has less than 75 hours on it, but it has started slipping suddenly. The friction plates look good and appear to have little wear. The middle-metal plates are hued purple, and most of them show somewhat heavy wear marks. Sliding aside the rubber boot next to the clutch master cylinder, I noticed either corrosion or dried fluid.
Any idea which of these could be responsible for the slippage?
If the metal plates have become very hot (you mentioned they have become hued purple) they can distort and become prone to slipping. The other thing to check is the belleville spring is flat across the face as shown in the video and tensioned correctly.
Awesome video - when I am going to change my clutch (which is soon), this will be my guide :-) Thank you.
I didn’t pay any attention to the difference in steel plates thickness when I replaced mine, seems to be working. What happens if the steels are in wrong order (thickness wise)?
i checked my spec on the belville spring it was around 0.35mm so out of spec, i have pulled the clutch apart to replace but the clutch plate thickness is basically identical to the brand new set ! , maybe i just need to change the belville spring to get the correct tension back onto the plates ?
Nice explained ! But still rubber for the damping ? My BSA from 1968 had also rubber dampers , and on 4000km they must be replaced ! Nothing has changed !
Nice video again! Is there any different feeling after changing the hub damper? Is there any way to know the wear of them before dissemble the basket?
I couldn't really feel the amount of play while riding the bike. If it got really bad you probably would though. Anyway, I think it's a good idea to change the rubber dampers once a year or so. If you have the tools it doesn't take long and the rubber dampers are relatively cheap.
so the adjustment on the belvil spring tensor would stop my clutch from being so grabby ??
Do U have schematic print out on ur homemade clutch tool for ktm 15 xcw 300 ? Or do U sell them. Great video by the way.tks
How do i get one of those fancy Tokyo off-road oil drain tools? Looks like a compression tester fitting 😃.
Great video! Which setting (1,2,or3) on the Belleville spring makes the clutch pull the lightest?
From 23:00 ruclips.net/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/видео.html I explain the tensioner positions (Position 1= Less pressure (easiest clutch pull); Position 3= Most pressure (heavier clutch pull)). This information is correct for my 2017, but positions may be reversed on other models so best to check for your model...
Would the fiber thickness be the same on a 19 300i xcw? I just pulled my plates and the inner ring on the steel plates are black, fiber plates are 1.55-1.79mm thick. Can’t find the spec in my manual
Advise Please! My KTM 2018 xc-w clutch drags with the clutch lever fully pulled in to a point that if you lock up the rear it sometimes kills the engine. Thanks for all your videos. Peter
Has it always dragged? If not, the cause is probably air in your clutch hose (replace the fluid and bleed), or the clutch master seal needs replacing.
Great video. Just one question. Should the clutch throw out shaft have a rounded end on the clutch side ?
Learned quite a lot. Very concise and easy to follow. 🎯
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
Hello love your vids could u tell me were do u get the we dampers from I'm goin 2 put a new clucth in my bike an want 2 put new dampers in 2 like u hav done here thanks.
Im thinking about doing this with my own 500 exc 2016 with your video as a guide. If my plates is not the same thickness as yours, should i just go from thin to thick? Lovely video btw!
Great tutorial, it guided me through the process. Thank you 👍🏾
Pleased to hear it helped...
First I have to say great Video!! Helped me a lot... I have a 300 EXC 2015. Clutch is not 100% the same as yours but Looks similar. I done everything like you explained it in you Video.. but if I Pop the clutch for a wheelie as exaple it Slips... checked several times... changed the Spring from y to x and z but it won't get better.. Maybe you have an advice for me..
You fitted a new clutch pack and it started slipping? Or is it an old clutch pack? Check that your clutch lever is fully disengaging (Mikhail in the comments below had an issue where his lever was sticking).
Your videos are veery therapeutic :D thank you for great information here.
Great video, I’ve just done my clutch rubbers but my clutch still sounds very chattery when clutch lever is out. Should there be rotational play on the clutch basket? Any help would be appreciated, or are they just noisy
Maybe your clutch basket is worn. In the video at 9.37 I inspect the basket for wear: ruclips.net/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/видео.html
Very well explained all along, with specs and tricks.
Very great video, when I inspect my clutch pad, it's still more than 1.9mm, but it weared somehow forsure, should I move the bolt from position 2 to position 3? I think the clutch disk get thiner, thus the spring preload might get ligher in the same position. Am I correct?
Hello, you dont know, but you helped me a LOT. I was wondering if you know what is the difference with starting plate marked with S and the last one, both 1mm but different part number. Thanks
Greetings from Slovenia
Mark, I am rewatching the vid as I have problems with my clutch slipping for the second time - each time after approx 60 hrs the clutch was toast. I see in your vid, when you put the pressure plate it doesnt wobble. Mine does wobble (there is 0,5-0,8 mm gap between the pressure plate and last metal plate...and I wonder why that is - i was suspecting some bubbles inside my clutch line but I think I bled them out...really strange...and all the plates are within spec...
It doesn't sound normal for the pressure plate to wobble. I'd take the pressure plate off and inspect it for damage/warpage.
For the 1, 2, or 3 setting on the spring, is this adjusted by the factory for a specific bike, or can you change the setting based on preference? Such as using a lighter setting if you don't demand as much instant torque?
I have the same question.
Weird that on the 2012-2016 250/300s it says to use 10nm on the clutch spring bolts and the clutch cover bolts and on the newer ones it says to use 6 and 8. I just stripped one of my clutch cover bolts either because of the 10nm or it was the wrong length.
Edit: So it turns out all of the bolts are supposed to stick out the same amount when fully unscrewed. One was really far in and one was far out. I switched them around and it worked fine, I tightened them to 8nm and the one I stripped had enough thread further down to hold that one. After I had stripped it the first time I would've left it except the bottom of my clutch cover was leaking oil.
Excellent video , nicely done !!
Thank you for the videos you make Sir !
@tokyooffroad Can you point me to a good place to find clear instructional video like yours for an older 4T KTM?
2010 450 XCW SD
Can't find any help anywhere. I believe those clutches all the same 2008-2012??
Pre-DDS.
Do you have a video of such?
Thank you for your consideration. I give you a 5star 10 out of 10 rating over others I have compared. Slavens is not as good!
Hi Mark! how are you? nice video! which are the possible failures or problems if your dampers needs replacements on the hub?? you show the hub has some play...what can happen if that occurs?
The rubber dampers are there to reduce shock between the transmission and crankshaft. The rubbers will slowly degrade over time, resulting in progressively more play. So long as the dampers have not totally broken up it shouldn't cause a real issue. Of course it's best to replace the rubbers periodically, before they break down.
Excellent. Thank you for a great instructional video.
Unsure if the 300 is different, or its a error, but on the 4 strokes torque for the inner clutch hub nut is 80nM, not 100 as mentioned in the video. Pays to check the manual, like I didnt :(
My clutch steels has 3x 1.3 plates and the rest 1.4 do they still go in first
Excellent video. If I done this I could follow your video the first time and breeze through the job
excellent video. thanks for posting.
Cant find the spec for the plates for my ktm exc 125 i have the manual
Another excellent video. My 2018 clutch seemed to be dragging, will adjusting the Bellville spring from II to I help? Next mod I'll be following is your idles screw video. Thanks
Clutch drag is common when the engine is cold. Does it still drag badly when warm? If so make sure that you're using the recommend oil grade and also not over-filling. If drag changed recently and became bad then it's probably air in the system (try bleeding), or the master, or slave needs rebuilding.
@@TokyoOffroad Appreciate your reply, thank you. Yes, using oil as per manual. Will double check I haven't over filled but it had a slight drag since new. My idle seems low and I haven't adjusted the bypass screw which can cause to stall on occasions when warm. Can I do harm if I adjust the Bellville from II to I? I'm yet to bleed the clutch. Thanks
Thank you! Do you know if the basket is supposed to have a little back and forth play? How would you check if the parts behind it need replacing? Also, i heard that since the dds, the clutch doesn't work properly until the oil is warmed up. Unless I warm mine up for 5-10 min, putting it in 1st just stalls the bike.
Yes, it's very usual to have some clutch drag when the transmission oil is still cold. I always cold start my bike in neutral, then once it's warmed up have no problem starting it in gear.
Regarding basket back and forth play, are you talking about the inner, or outer baskets? The inner basket is connected to the transmission and the outer basket is connected to the engine. Excessive play could be due to worn out bearings, or transmission wear. This should only occur after a high number of hours.
Tokyo Offroad Thank you for the reply, it is the outer basket, just a little back and forth like the gear's motion, not side to side. The bike has 300 hrs.
crs2crs2 - That sounds normal. Unless you’re having problems shifting, jumping out of gear, false neutrals etc I wouldn’t worry about it. For a high hour bike (500H+), when it comes time to replace/rebuild the crank it would be good to replace all the bearing in the transmission and inspect the transmission for issues.
None of the problems you mentioned, so good news. Thank you!
Great videos, keep them coming.
Great tip on using the cardboard to keep track of which nut goes where, but I ran into a problem when replacing the stock with a Hinson cover. On the 18's or maybe part of a running change, instead of using a 55mm bolt for that one spot, they made the cover thicker there to act as a washer and use all 60mm bolts. Hinson didn't update the cover so my dumbass ran the bolt until it hit the starter and cracked the cover. Now it's bound up (even with the bolt backed out) and won't turn over.
Any ideas for freeing it up or will I need to replace parts of the starter?
Sorry to hear about the issue. My advice is to take the starter motor out, inspect it and figure out if the damage is something you can fix, or whether a new starter motor is required.
Thanks, went ahead and ordered the replacement, but will try to repair the old one and keep as a spare. Now i'm just trying to figure out how much of the motor I need to take apart to get it. I think I can just unbolt the engine from the mounts to get at the starter cover and the starter bolts on the clutch side, then hopefully be able to get the bendix off and the the screw that holds the starter on on the other side just by removing the alternator cover and not have to take the rotor off.
My 2020 XC 300 TPI has a strained idle when not moving, in gear, no throttle and eventually stalls. It jerks the slightest bit when shifting from neutral to first but not a full on lurch forward with lots of wheel movement and it's really only noticeable if the bike is on a downhill slope. It does this whether cold or hot and it did it before it's first oil change and after its first oil change using the manufacture recommended Motrex oil. I read somewhere that it's just because it's a new clutch and that it will go away after a while. Also it did this since day one and I assumed KTM and the dealer wouldn't let this go out the door if it was an issues... I now have 20 hours on the bike. I got used to giving it a bit of throttle to keep it from stalling but a technical trail I was riding reminded me of this crappy issue. So if it is a wear-related problem and the clutch is still too new, with little wear (I don't ride super crazy), should I try running the bellevue-spring ring on position 1? My closest KTM dealer is not close at all. Last time I had it there for its 5 hour maintenance, they checked the idle and said it was fine. Not sure if they tried shifting it into gear or not.
Sorry to hear about the problem. I'm assuming the bike idles OK in neutral? Where does the clutch start to engage? With two fingers on the clutch lever it should start engaging just after the lever comes off your other fingers gripping the handlebar. If you need to pull the lever right to the bar to disengage the clutch something is not right. I'd also try using 675ml of transmission oil (Motorex TopSpeed 15W-50) rather than 800ml. This will help reduce clutch drag. I measured the amount of oil required in this video: ruclips.net/video/AhxQje0jFAM/видео.html.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the delay. Work has been really busy and I was thinking I could record a video of it, as it would probably be easier for you to see what it's doing. I'll try to get a video posted this weekend. I think it's idling fine in neutral but this is also my first two stroke so I'm not 100% sure. I've always thought the idle sounded a little low, but the shop said it was fine when I brought it in at 5 hours. It doesn't stall when idling in neutral.
Really satisfying see u work 👌
Have you ever went to the point where the clutch started to slip ? Im just changing mine and will put in new rubbers from Recluse too. It has 265 hrs on it and still feels good, maybee a slight more drag than new. Im riding tecknical enduro and slip it a lot.
Personally I've had extremely good experience with the KTM OEM clutches and never had any slipping issues. I currently use the Recluse dampers as others have said they last longer. The clutch pack, fibers and steels, I don't know of anything better than OEM.
Can I use Loctite 243 or 2701 instead of the 648, which I can't find?
Thank You Sir for your time, this video is perfect, very well done, congratulations. Best regards.
Would bad damper's cause a knocking noise at idle with clutch out?
thank you, best video replacement for sure!!!
Just found your channel. Have you ever done a complete motor rebuild video? Would be a great help of what all goes into it since KTM is very particular and uses a lot of special pieces unlike other bikes.
No, I haven't done a bottom end rebuild video yet. I'll be sure to make one when the chance comes up in the future...
Tokyo Offroad alright cool. If you do one, do it on your 2 stroke bike as that is what I plan on getting next season. All these videos help me prepare for what ill be doing to the bike if i get one.
Bottom ends on the KTMs typically don’t need anything done until 500H or more. My 2017 has done 260H now (in just under 2 years), so it’ll be a while longer...
Tokyo Offroad damn thats crazy. Whats your thoughts on a 2013/14/15 250xc motors? How reliable are they?
Can this clutch be retrofitted to pre 2012 bikes? Is it any quieter?
It seems some of the smaller newer bikes use a non damped version of this basket
There is a thread on KTM Talk (web forum) discussing this topic. Unfortunately it appears that a retrofit would be very difficult...
How do you know all these small details? I have owners manual and even bought repair manual as well but there is no information about direction of plate "S" and other plates with sharp edges up etc. etc.
I noted the "s" plate orientation when I took it off the bike (s side was facing the basket. But I don't think the orienation of the "s" plate really matters as it doesn't move in the basket. All the other plates do move so the orientation is more important. The theory behind the plate orientation is that the sharp edge direction will be a little more difficult to move, so it's better to have the sharp edge out so it's acting against the hydraulic pressure when you force the plates apart, and there's a little less drag when you release the clutch and the plates are forced together by the bellville spring.
Thanks a lot for this. Really well done video.
Thanks for the video!
My manual (16 500EXC) says 80Nm (60ftlbs) for the clutch basket .... not 100 and no loctite
k kon - Yes, I had a 2013 500EXC and the manual spec was the same as your 2016. However, for my 2017 250 EXC it does state 100Nm and to use Loctite. Probably no issue using the lower torque setting though, especially with the lock washer...
When you talk about the sharp edge and the smooth edge of the steels, if you get one wrong, what would happen? I know I got my "s" plate in and faced correctly but am not 100% on my steel plate placement. After I replaced my clutch dampers and re-assembled, the clutch is working great. Is it worth inspecting again? Thanks!
If the steel plates are reversed you might experience slightly worse initial engagement after releasing the clutch (plates might stick a little). In most cases there may be no noticeable difference, but it's still good practice to orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out.
Great video thank you for being so thorough
Hey man I live your videos, very informational. I am going to replace my clutch basket, once the hub is removed does it just slide off the shaft?
Yes, the clutch basket will slide off the shaft once the inner hub has been removed. Be sure not to lose the spacer which goes between the inner hub and basket.
@@TokyoOffroad Awesome man thanks a lot.
Tokyo Offroad Hey man I’m having some issues and was hoping you had some advice. I have a 2017 tx300 and the clutch will not fully disengage. I have bled the clutch, replaced the clutch disks, replaced the clutch basket in attempt to fix, to no avail. Is there anything you can think of? Very frustrating every time I lock up my rear break or come to a stop my bike stalls.
Is it the same method for a 2019 500 EXC-F ? Thank you very much for the video.
Yes, the 500 also has a DDS clutch so the method is the same. Please check your owners manual for torques values as there may be some differences.
Is this the same for those of us with the Rekluse?
How many hours do you typically put on a clutch pack riding woods? Great videos, thanks!
About 180H seems to be a good interval for changing the clutch pack for the riding I do (mostly slower, steep mountain trail riding)
@@TokyoOffroad Awesome, thanks so much for the recommendation.
Great video Mark !
I used the clutch overhaul kit and when I finished fitting the spring was convex from the engine side, what should I do? I tried all 3 screw positions but nothing has changed
Sorry to hear about the problem. Please measure how far off from flat the belleville spring is (use a steel rule and feeler gauges).
Cool Vids!
Something to keep in mind...apparently the furthest inside and outside Drive Plates (obviously only 2) are about .96mm thick, and the inside Drive Plates are approximately 1.3mm thick...might ck with digital caliper, just in case the pack is removed in multiple layers.
Thanks for the positive feedback regarding the videos.
Yes, the inner and outer metal plates are both 1mm, but they are different part numbers. To ease identification the inner 1mm plate is marked with an "S". The plates between the two 1mm plates are thicker, but as I noted in the video not all 1.4mm thick. From inside to outside the correct order is:
1.0mm (S), 1.3mm, 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.0mm
I modified the parts list diagram shown in the video to clarify this:
ruclips.net/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/видео.htmlm58s
Both the plates in my bike (factory fitted) and the clutch kit were the same.
this is awesome! now need to go back into my clutch and remove plates and reinstall correctly. This is very helpful....also, great for people that were maybe running Rekluse and going back to stock clutch. sure enough, I had the S plate on the outside.....really appreciate your vids!
Fantastic demonstration
Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great video. I rebuilt mine and now the clutch feels very tight and slips at high throttle. Tried changing between I, II, and III settings. I have clean oil and clutch fluid is at spec. Any idea what I missed here?
Sorry to hear about the issue. Could you explain a bit more about what you mean by "feels very tight". Here are some questions and things to think about/check:
1) Did you install a new clutch pack (new fiber and steel plates) and soak all the fiber plates in oil before installation (preferably overnight, but at least a couple of hours)?
2) Did you measure the steel plates and order them correctly?
3) Did you orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out? If the sharp edges are in the engagement may not be as positive and you may experience more slippage.
4) When you tried the I, II & III settings did you measure the flatness of the belleville spring? If so which position was flattest?
5) Check that nothing is preventing the clutch lever being fully released
6) Did you replace the damping rubbers? When you reinstalled the clutch hub did you install the spacer behind the hub?
If the clutch pack is in good condition and installed correctly it should not slip at all...
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks very much for the thorough reply. I simply had to adjust my aftermarket clutch lever (Midwest). I should have thought of that before I pulled the clutch back apart 4 times looking for a mistake.
Thanks again. I very much appreciate your videos.
Super huge thanks for not running a loud and annoying music bed.
@@JoshuaPfenning - I'm pleased you found the issue. Have you been able to find an adjustment for the Midwest lever which works well? Two of my riding buddies tried Midwest clutch levers on their KTMs and couldn't find a position that worked well. Either it was slipping, or not disengaging fully. One ended up going back to stock the other got a Clake One Light Clutch. This was about 4 years ago so they might have redesigned it. Don't know...
@@TokyoOffroad Yes there is a set crew on the inside of the lever that allows for fine tuning. It was easy to do, but I overlooked it. Important to remember when rebuilding the clutch that the lever might need adjusting after.
We really love these short Midwest levers. Clake look impressive but are quite pricey.
I got a used KTM 250 sx and my impression was neutral was impossible to find, shifting was meh and the power felt like it just slapped on and was too abrupt. All the articles about the 18 250sx says it’s powerful so I just figured it’s how it is. Well did a Rekluse clutch thinking it would make it easier to deal with the bike. While doing the job I found the rubber dampeners were in terrible shape not even connected by the little piece of rubber anymore. Those little pieces of rubber can make the all the difference in the world make sure to grab a set next time you go to do clutch work!