Love your stuff Winky!! I use these on my lathe and mill, work well. One thing, if it doesn't seem to work, try flipping the magnet over. Before gluing it, which I found wasn't REALLY necessary, hold the magnet up to the sensor, if the light turns on, use that side toward the sensor, or flip it. Thanks for the great content. Pierre
Hi Winky. I fitted one more or less the same on the Myford lathe. I just stuck the magnet on with 2 pack adhesive. At over 2000 rpm never had a problem in over 2 years of running. Fitted one to my Milling machine too. Great addition. Regards. Steve.
I have a similar tacho to fit on my lathe. I made an extended spindle lock nut that sticks out of the back cover similar to Wink's arrangement. My lathe is currently buried under piles of household wears as we jave been demolishing and rebuilding the kitchen and dinning room so as that dusty old project nears it's end I will be able to liberate the lathe and finish the job. My tacho works off a 12v dc supply so need to provide one.
Nicely done!! I did the same with my Logan 820. It is good to see the rpms easily. I was not aware these came to wire directly to 110volts... I did not even bother to look for one like that. The one I got runs on 12volts so I got a left over power supply from something. I can't remember what it used to power as this was in the box of power supplies in the garage (finally saving all those power supplies paid off, 😂😂🤣)... Also like the idea of having the calculator handy... I go for my phone now... I will copy that idea and install one as well... might make it so that I can move it around between lathes/mills... with some magnetic base. Thank you for sharing the mods!!
Thanks for the comment. Yeah... I was tired of looking for the calculator. I think calculator and screw driver were work together. They like to hide from me. One time the screw driver got really creative, it was hiding in plane sight where you would never suspect. In my hand!
Out of curiosity what does your 820 run at in it's 3 speeds? I'm guessing pretty close this one, 400 / 650 / 1000 ? (if you have the stock 1725 single phase motor)
@@Zt3v3 The Logan had a little more range. It had a 2 step pulley coming from the motor. The speeds were 420 780 and 1400 on the larger motor pulley. I never used the smaller pulley.
Nice job, Winky! I recently did the same to my old Atlas 10". While I was at it, I replaced the original step pulley, jackshaft, and constant belt-changing with a treadmill motor I'd rebuilt, and its variable speed controller. It's really nice not to have to fiddle with belt changes. Left the back gear system intact so I can still get the really low speeds if needed. This setup's a lot quieter, too. Highly recommended. The tach I bought on Ebay runs on a 9 volt battery, and it's lasted a surprsingly long time so far. I can switch it on before the lathe to give it a few seconds to stabilize. Nice additions to the old machines! Thanks! I always learn useful tricks from your videos.
Thanks Dave, the treadmill motor sounds great. I'm okay with my step pulleys. Most the time the speed on the lathe is not so critical plus on my 1931 it's nice to retain an original look even if it isn't really original. The milling machine I just restored had a bad motor. Vevor game me a 1 hp replacement so I used it. It seems to be a good motor and I like the fact that it was free but the belts are a real pain to get to. I'm seriously thinking about either a 3ph motor of a treadmill motor. I have a VFD and also found a 3/4HP 3ph motor so that's probably what I'll go with. My 1917 Avey drill press could also use a higher range of speeds. Right now I'm stuck between 280 and 550 RPM. It would be nice to have up to 1500 without losing the low speed. I might simply add a step pulley to the motor... again, it's nice to have the original look of the old machine.
These are great. I bought a bunch of them with blue LEDs. When I put a new 2HP inverter motor/vfd on my mill, I used one. Same thing on one drill press, and on my SB FOURTEEN lathe that has variable speeds, but whose analog meter isn’t the most accurate. And for those doing this, make absolutely sure you have the correct side of the magnet facing the sensor. It won’t read otherwise. I also milled a pocket for the magnets, but epoxied them in place. For that, I use aluminum collars. It’s easy to make them. Don’t trust the magnet staying there. At some point, vibration and centripetal force will have it popping out, and shattering. I don’t trust super glue for this, vibration will break it loose.
You could get a magnet with a countersunk hole to attach it to your adapter, thereby preventing it from coming loose. Super glue can loosen up over time.
I manufacture a bunch of RC Aircraft kits. I use magnets to hold wings on small models and hatches on all models. If you use super glue, the shock of the magnets coming together always causes micro fractures in the glue releasing the magnets in short order. Epoxy is soft enough that it lasts forever. Burnish the magnet a little with fine sandpaper first. You won't be snapping anything onto your magnet, so CA is likely to work ok. Nice project. Looking forward to watching the rest of the video.
Mill out a place for the magnet and glue it in with lock tight 638. To get it back out you would have to heat the shaft to melt the lock tight otherwise it's there forever. I've used it several times on the neodymium strong magnets. Never lost one yet.
Hello Mark. I may do that. Maybe even leave it on. I'm not worried about the power but I thought it might shorten the life of the electronics. For $18 Bucks maybe I need to buy a couple replacements.
Hi Winky, Man you have that Lathe running like a Swiss Watch. It’s so quite you hardly hear it. I like these little Digital RPM Meters. I bought one awhile back for my Mill. Thanks for another Great Video. I use my Tap Handle that I made just like yours all the Time. I watched your Video on how you made it, and it sure is handy. Anyway, keep the Videos coming, I really enjoy all of them.👍❤️
Nice improvement Mark. You have to like that there is no complicated electronics that you have to deal with. I liked the little duel rod drill press vice that you were using when you were welding the bracket.
Yes very simple. Ah yes, I think that is the first time I have ever used that vise. I got three of them with my mill and that one was sitting further back on the shelf.
Great find! I reckon the magnet carrier should of be made from a plastic - it might be taking time to settle because the magnetic field is dispersed by the metal holder around the magnet?
mine works imbedded in a steel tube but after I installed it I found instructions on the Amazon page that said it needed to be imbedded or attached to something non-magnetic.
I did the same thing on my Craftsman/Atlas 12" lathe, same time I converted to variable speed treadmill motor. I was able to attach the magnet with JB Weld directly to the surface of the shoulder of main spindle gear. That was about 3 or 4 years ago, and it has never flown off.
that's great. Mine is still there. I mounted mine to a steel sleeve but later I found some instructions on the Amazon page that said it should be mounted on a non-magnetic surface. Hmmm... mine of on steel and works well.
Thanks. Technically this would be a good idea but the wire I used is very industrial (thick insulation). Plus the wire will never be moved like it would be with a normal power cord.
I had just ordered one of these tachs., should arrive today. Was starting to think of where to mount sensor. Liked your approach here. And wanted to make a "cats head" for that far end of my spindle anyway for centering long pieces in this 1 3/8" spindle throat. (I may consider tacking my new piece to the spindle with a few TIG weld tacks to assure it stays put - as long as I don't get too much heat to damage/warp bearings or spindle). Although I suppose JB weld might be a good option as well, with set screws still for safety. So would make the steel tube extension longer than yours for the catshead screws to not interfere with the sensor. In process of converting my 1/2 HP AC motor on an 11" Logan, to a 1.25 HP DC motor (treadmill motor) with speed control. So will incorporate the tach in the same housing. Will be great to be able to set speed, even if just avoiding chatter in some instances. But also want to be able to slow start as well - should allow me to 'carefully' run in reverse (without losing the chuck) for threading in reverse direction to assure I don't crash the lathe. Also really liked the idea of having the calculator there mounted - especially for those of us without a DRO. Just like I have different sets of tools at different 'stations' around the place - prevents the searching and shuffling of gear from place to place. So will have to pull out one of my old calcs to put there. ...where is that old HP35 -- LOL. Also think I should make a flip chart mounted there for having speed tables handy - have to see if I can find some tables which are practical & hobby lathe friendly. I'm a newbie at this.
Yeah... I like the flip chart idea. I have a bunch on the wall but I can't see them. The VFD would be nice for chatter and the Speed Indicator is a must.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks -- For me if the data is not handy I will "guesstimate". Similar reason why I have 4 trashcans with a broom and dustpan at each -- for less "mess-timation". LOL
I super glued the magnet to my three jaw chuck for my tach set up on my Craftsman lathe. It came off once but stayed on the chuck somehow. I degreased the surfaces and glued it back on. It gets a few shavings on it but I carefully wipe them off. Sure don't want that magnet ending up in the gears.
I did the same thing on my wood lathe that was belt driven and could just have easily figured out the speeds by sheave sizes but the readout is nice. Did put one on my metal lathe as it was variable speed and had no factory speed indication.
Thank requires math! Haha... Actually the flat belts are easy but the pulley on the motor is small and I'm never sure where to calculate the diameter? Inside the belt or outside or half way? Then the back gear ratio is unknown.
Nice find, casually searched once but all I found was low voltage displays and I sure didn't want another low voltage adapter creating a spider's nest of wires. Also reminds me I need to paint my South Bend someday, they sure look nice with new paint...
@@Bennyboy-dog Messing with the main power was easy and I didn't want more wires and outlets to deal with. 12V would be okay if I had to but the 120v option is better for me.
You will like it and wonder how you got along with out it-- I put one on my lathe about 10 years ago or longer when I converted to a thread mill motor and got variable speed but my lathe is a Harbor Freight 9X20 and if I remember wright I used JB Weld to glue magnet to spindle and I think the north side of magnet had to point to pick up but I may be wrong
Beautiful job there Winky!! Wowzers, you went to whole lots more trouble on yours with special brackets and stuff than I did. I just made a wooden box for the display and power supply, and JB Weld glued the magnet to a gear hub on the spindle in my little Craftsman 12" lathe. It works perfectly so far, but I really like the fabrication you did on yours, and it looks lots better than my installation!
Magnet mount could be on the inside of the ring bore for security. Drill through from the opposite side, pocket it into the receiving side. Might need to drill a hole in the pocket floor for the right magnetics for the Hall effect sensor.
The tachometer description recommends using non-ferrous material to hold the magnet. Also, since the sensor works up to 10 mm away, wrap the magnet with electrical tape or if you want to be quick and dirty, zip tie it in place.
Yeah... mine did not come with instructions but I found out about the non-ferrous metal looking the Amazon page. It seems to work... I missed the 10mm spec, Thanks!
I tried this on my LMS 7350 lathe, and when I turned up the speed the magnet that comes with it flew off the spindle. I tried a stronger magnet I got out of a computer hard drive and it worked great. I didn't need to add or modify anything to the spindle other than the magnet. The magnet is strong enough to stay put. Now I just need to come up with a way to permanently attach the sensor and the display and wire it up.
Cool! I found out later that the Amazon page has some instructions on it. Apparently the magnet is supposed to be mounted in a non-magnetic surface. I mounted mine in steel and it worked.
Nice addition to your lathe! I was thinking that another option for retaining the magnet might have been to bore a slightly smaller hole through both sides of the spindle extension the n drilling almost through with a full diameter bit. You would need to grind the bit flat to finish the hole bottom. It might have been "fiddly" to get that to work just right. Loctite would give a little extra retention as well but it looks like it is going to work just fine like it is!
As you mentioned near the end I think I would have wired it direct or at least have a separate switch to shut if off when you leave the shop. Since you need to turn the lathe off to change speeds there is that lag (pretty short) to stabilize. But at least you have more than a guess on the speed.
I finished installing the tachometer on my Jet lathe today and mounted it on the back of the headstock. Power is from a 110V socket behind the lathe but it’s still slow ramping up and turning off. Not bad for 20 bucks, thanks to Winky.
@@WinkysWorkshop Check out Mr. Pete’s Saturday video that I helped him produce by surface grinding two small angle plates to inspection grade. The title is “Precision Grinding Angle Plate’s”. Collaboration with Ellie Price.
@@ellieprice363 I just watched it, Very nice video! Isn't Mr. Pete a great guy? I met him at the Florida Flywheeler event last year. Thanks for letting me know about this video!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, Mr. Pete is a super nice guy and a wonderful teacher. I've never met him in person but enjoy sending him ideas to use on his channel. My primary purpose is to help him reach 300K subscribers which may be possible if he continues to publish his great videos. BTW, you're doing great. I see you've received over 13K views on your latest.
This is fantastic, thank you for posting! I'll order one for both my lathe and mill. Currently no clue what rpm they actually run. Can't wait to find out!
I installed a similar one I purchased off Amazon on my Clausing 5904 lathe and it works great. I however needed to replace the magnet with a stronger one. I epoxied mine onto the spindle and mounted the sensor under the side cover.
I called some local (past) used equipment dealers I used to deal with here in FL to see what they had and they said that decent used stuff had become impossible find and what they do find is badly worn out. They gave up trading in it and now just sell the new stuff now like Grizzley, Jet and some cheaper copies.
I much prefer the older stuff. With that being said, most often these machines have wear, sometimes significant. My South Bend is worn fairly bad. If I was running a machine shop I'd look for new or newer machines but for hobby use I can take the time to work around the wear. I usually buy from individuals but have bought from dealers as well. My Hardinge lathe and Avey drill press came from a dealer. The Great Lakes area is a hot bed of used machines. I'm in KY so I sometimes end up driving a long distance. I mill was over 300 miles away.
I have some of these as well. I put one on a drill press with a VFD and it works great. I need to put the others on the lathe and mill when I get some time.
I put one similar to that one on my old craftsman lathe,, it works fine too although I don't know what speed to run the lathe for every different job anyway.. lol but it looks purty.
If you know the RPM and the diameter you can calculate the surface speed (SFPM=Surface Feet Per Minute Dia is in inches that's why things get divided by 12 π= 3.14145927=Pi). You use this formula SFPM = (π x Dia x RPM) / 12 And if you want to know what RPM to go for a particular diameter to get a certain surface speed then you use this formula RPM = SFPM / (π x (Dia / 12)) HSS cutting mild steel you want to keep it under 100 SFPM. I have a chart hanging up so I'm not using those formulas all the time.
@@WinkysWorkshop I do not find standard to be inferior to metric for what I use it for. I am not a scientist. I only build their laboratories for them.
I see a few uses for such a tach. And it makes it a lot easier to repeat a setting on variable speed power tools. Set speeds via belts or gears, once noted, will always be the same speeds there after (hopefully). But variable speed equipment makes it easier to set certain speeds... Thumbs Up!
Always nice to have a speed display-takes the guess work out. I installed the same one on my Clausing 15" variable speed drill press. Magnet wasn't a problem: i put a piece of double sided tape on the fixed side of the vari-drive pully with the magnet on top. Magnetic force and the sticky-ness of the tape have held it in place for 2 years now. The prox mounting bracket was a little tricky but with creative bending and tapped holes conveniently provided by Clausing it was fairly easy. I used an off the shelf electrical enclosure for the display unit and have it continuously powered on as long as the drill press is plugged in.
@@danhayward9186 Agree... for a variable speed drive its a huge advantage. My lathe doesn't have a speed chart. It was originally intended for overhead drives although it had options for motor brackets. Nevertheless, I made the drive and at least the motor pulley is not original (even if I had a speed chart). Yeah... I did some math but I wasn't sure where to measure the diameter of the drive pulley for the V-belt. It's about 1/2" thick. Do you use the small diameter or the outside of the belt..... maybe halfway between? Either way... the speed indicator was almost as easy as the math. :o)
Hi Winky, if it's not a daft question, what have you actually achieved by fitting this to your fixed speed lathe ? Once you know what the 6 spindle speeds are, it is totally useless. I can understand having it if your motor was a VFD, but your motor is fixed at about 1425 or 1700. Once you know the pulley diameters it is a simple calculation to get the speeds, and even if you got it wrong by a few RPM, does it really matter as you can not alter what it is. I wonder how long it will last with it keep going on and off every time you start and stop the motor ? All you needed if you are unable to remember what the spindle speed are, is either a small chart or a Dymo label. Regards from Australia.
Let me look up daft.... uh, yeah... maybe daft :o) Honestly, I'm not sure on the back gear ratio and wasn't sure what diameter to use for the motor pulley. Maybe you know. It's about 3" on the OD of the belt and just over 2" on the ID.
You should add bolts to your spindle extension to make it into a Lathe Spider as well as holding your magnet. If you move the magnet towards the lathe it seems like there would be space.
Since you sunk the magnet down in the hole a little bit, a couple light Center Punch Dimples on either side of it would "Stake" It in place so it can't fly out.
A good idea I'm sure. So far I've been lucky.... it's still in place and held by magnetism. Also, after installing the magnet I found instructions on the Amazon page. It said to mount the magnet in a non-magnetic material. I mounted in steel but it works.
I didn't think of the Non-magnetic mount till you mentioned it @@WinkysWorkshop but eventually it may lose its magnetism and/or spread the magnetic field around the circumference affecting the accuracy of your tach. A piece of PVC Tubing might have been a better choice of material. . .
I cant remember and mine had no instructions. Later I found them on the amazon page for this product. Also, i mounted my magnet in steel. It works but the instructions say to use plastic or aluminum.
Hello, I know that this is a bit old, but I am setting up my mill with a new 3 phase motor and a VFD. I was wondering if you ever switched it to be powered all the time, and if it made a difference in the time that it takes to give a steady reading? Thanks
I just turned the lathe on with slack in the belt and then tightened it. It seems to take about the same time to stabilize. I suspect it might be due to the fact that my magnet is mounted in steel. After installing the speed indicator I found the instructions on line. It said i was supposed to mount the magnet in something non-magnetic like aluminum. I suspect this would help a lot.
Winky I just received mine in the mail. I think I have this figured out but want your advice before doing it. The pigtail with the red blue and brown goes to the sensor and then plugs into the back of the display and then you need to make up a drop cord and hook it up to the blue plug on the back of the display unit and then plug it into a wall socket correct. Wiring is not my strong point and just need a little help. Thanks.
You got it. If your lathe is 120V just hook into the main power at your switch and have two smaller wires go to the display. I'd say you could do it before the switch and just leave it on all the time. I was worried it might shorten the life of the display but who knows if this is true. If you don't feel comfortable doing the wiring get some help. I'd hate to hear about one of my viewers getting electrocuted!!!!
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you my only thoughts was how small the ports were for the AC Current and seeing it had no instructions with it I did not want to hook it up wrong and shorten out the unit. I'm having a problem finding a place to put the magnet on my South Ben the motor is down in the cabinet and my side door that covers the change gears has to be opened every day to oil my reverse gear and with something in the end of the spindle the side door will not open.
@@anthonycash4609 I'm not sure what to tell you on the magnet location but it needs to be on the spindle or bull gear. Yes the power wires going to the display need to be small gauge.
@@WinkysWorkshop finished my lathe speed meter today winky. Slow 471 medium 798 fast 1375 forgot to check back gear. I ended up putting the magnet on the end of the spindle like you did. Works good thanks for your help.
something I can't understand, once you know the speed of the chuck at all belt settings, and back gears, what purpose does the RPM indicator serve? Seems just a small chart on the wall would suffice and then the indicator could be better used on a mill, drill press or any other tool with a VFD or variable pulley that has no set speed. Just my 2cents
Of course you are right and I knew about what they were. The math was easy although I didn't know where to measure the V-belt pulley on the motor. On the outside of the belt or inside. This makes a big difference.... and the indicator was easy.
@@WinkysWorkshop I must have implied that the rev counter was of no value...sorry. What I should have said that just chucking the magnet is some temporary holder, noting the rpm for all possible belt combinations and making a chart would relieve the rev counter for some other application that is more variable.
@@Uts9000 No need to explain. You make a good point. I will say however, it's convenient to see. It's hard to find a place to post a speed chart in my shop. I'm now thinking about an easy access flip chart with tabs. I have stuff plastered everywhere.
I can't help but think the readout would be a function of the diameter on the sleeve that holds the magnet. Do they provide any adjustment for this? Nice job thanks for the video.
A larger diameter would have greater surface speed but exactly the same RPM. No adjustment needed. Kind of like a clock. You can use the same clock works in any size dial you want.
Ratios only come into play when there's one thing spinning another thing. Like say two pulleys or gears. But if you spin a cone it's all spinning at the same RPM.
On the outboard side I'd have to drill a hole in the guard for the sensor and I'm not willing to do that on this old lathe. The bull gear has the pin that you disengage for back gear that would obstruct the sensor.
You're welcome, I made a mistake, the piece you mount the magnet in needs to be aluminum. I used steel and it worked but it would likely work better if I had used plastic or aluminum. Good luck
Really sexy on off switch. You probably stole it from a wall in your house. I always have trouble with these rpm monitors. The light comes on but rpm doesn’t show. Yes, I know about the polarity of the magnet. Always have to fuss with them. Love your videos. Wish you were my neighbor. 😬 Paul
Ha, thanks. On this indicator I found out later the magnet holder this be aluminum on non-magnetic. It works with steel but maybe better with non-magnetic.
I would have drill through both sides with a smaller bit and enlarge the hole drill with an exact size of the magnet stop short from going through the opposite side leaving a small lip to hold the magnet from centrifugal force. No glue required. But this is hind sight. Great idea and skill.
Could you not have just gotten an optical tachometer and just written down the Chuck speed with all six combinations and post ot on your lathe someplace? I guess I don’t understand the need to have the speed displayed all the time.
Winky. Do you use gas in your MIG welding or flux core? I’m using flux core and my welds look like crap. Splatter everywhere but where I want it. I want to be able to weld but it never works out well. I have a stick welder. Do you think I would have better luck with that? I plan on getting gas for the MiG but haven’t yet. Just wanted your opinion on the difference between gas MiG and flux core MiG. Paul
I gave up on MIG. TIG is much easier. I did a review on a Vevor TIG but they no longer make the one I reviewed. If I was doing production welding I would probably use MIG but my TIG welds look MUCH better than my MIG. If you just want to weld steel I recommend getting the cheapest 220V TIG. Inverter technology has progressed and I suspect most TIGs are good welder.
@@WinkysWorkshop If you put JB Weld on rare earth magnets the epoxy migrates over the entire surface and forms geometrically precise patterns of spikes. I found it amusing and was once a grandkid.
What a beautiful lathe, it looks like the lathe i recently bought. I like the counter as well. I was watching a movie while watching this video so i dont know if i missed it but was there a DRO on it or is it possible for one to be fitted on the compound?.
I was thinking you could take a center punch and peen over the metal two places on the o.d. to be sure the magnet won't fly out (while removed from the spindle, of course). Nice video Winky.
Hello Elliot, look on the Amazon page where you ordered, there is a picture with a diagram. Also, it says to mount the magnet to something none magnetic (aluminum). I mounted mine to steel and it works but aluminum is probably better.
Awesome! Also I’ve been meaning to ask you what brand that awesome dovetail style vice is you’re always using in your vids? I want one, really really want one lol
I got that at a garage sale 30 years ago. It is an excellent vice but has one big negative. The back jaw moves instead of the front. This makes it impossible to hold stock vertically below the vice. I'm not sure on the brand but it's make in Poland.
I see a possible new project, a powered brake for bending heavy gauge sheet metal. 🙂 CA glue would probably work and if you had to remove it just soak the piece in some Acetone. Nice, I've already ordered one for my shop.
Cool. With fixed speed combinations like yours and mine it has limited usefulness because you already know the speed of each combo, unless you can get variable speed on your machine. I'd like to see something that reads the SFM for the diameter being turned.
Love your stuff Winky!! I use these on my lathe and mill, work well. One thing, if it doesn't seem to work, try flipping the magnet over. Before gluing it, which I found wasn't REALLY necessary, hold the magnet up to the sensor, if the light turns on, use that side toward the sensor, or flip it. Thanks for the great content. Pierre
Another person said the same. I guess i got lucky, Thanks!
I found the same when I fitted one to my mill drill, magnet in upside down and it doesnt work
I only recently found this channel, but have really enjoyed watching your thought process. Thanks for all the content!
I'm glad you enjoy the channel! Thanks
Hi Winky. I fitted one more or less the same on the Myford lathe. I just stuck the magnet on with 2 pack adhesive. At over 2000 rpm never had a problem in over 2 years of running. Fitted one to my Milling machine too. Great addition.
Regards.
Steve.
So far mine is friction fit plus magnetic
Awesome content, no music, just knowledge. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I have a similar tacho to fit on my lathe. I made an extended spindle lock nut that sticks out of the back cover similar to Wink's arrangement. My lathe is currently buried under piles of household wears as we jave been demolishing and rebuilding the kitchen and dinning room so as that dusty old project nears it's end I will be able to liberate the lathe and finish the job.
My tacho works off a 12v dc supply so need to provide one.
Been there done that... yeah, i like the 120V tach.
Nicely done!! I did the same with my Logan 820. It is good to see the rpms easily. I was not aware these came to wire directly to 110volts... I did not even bother to look for one like that. The one I got runs on 12volts so I got a left over power supply from something. I can't remember what it used to power as this was in the box of power supplies in the garage (finally saving all those power supplies paid off, 😂😂🤣)...
Also like the idea of having the calculator handy... I go for my phone now... I will copy that idea and install one as well... might make it so that I can move it around between lathes/mills... with some magnetic base.
Thank you for sharing the mods!!
Thanks for the comment. Yeah... I was tired of looking for the calculator. I think calculator and screw driver were work together. They like to hide from me. One time the screw driver got really creative, it was hiding in plane sight where you would never suspect. In my hand!
@@WinkysWorkshop 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Out of curiosity what does your 820 run at in it's 3 speeds? I'm guessing pretty close this one, 400 / 650 / 1000 ? (if you have the stock 1725 single phase motor)
@@Zt3v3 The Logan had a little more range. It had a 2 step pulley coming from the motor. The speeds were 420 780 and 1400 on the larger motor pulley. I never used the smaller pulley.
Nice job, Winky! I recently did the same to my old Atlas 10". While I was at it, I replaced the original step pulley, jackshaft, and constant belt-changing with a treadmill motor I'd rebuilt, and its variable speed controller. It's really nice not to have to fiddle with belt changes. Left the back gear system intact so I can still get the really low speeds if needed. This setup's a lot quieter, too. Highly recommended.
The tach I bought on Ebay runs on a 9 volt battery, and it's lasted a surprsingly long time so far. I can switch it on before the lathe to give it a few seconds to stabilize.
Nice additions to the old machines! Thanks! I always learn useful tricks from your videos.
Thanks Dave, the treadmill motor sounds great. I'm okay with my step pulleys. Most the time the speed on the lathe is not so critical plus on my 1931 it's nice to retain an original look even if it isn't really original. The milling machine I just restored had a bad motor. Vevor game me a 1 hp replacement so I used it. It seems to be a good motor and I like the fact that it was free but the belts are a real pain to get to. I'm seriously thinking about either a 3ph motor of a treadmill motor. I have a VFD and also found a 3/4HP 3ph motor so that's probably what I'll go with. My 1917 Avey drill press could also use a higher range of speeds. Right now I'm stuck between 280 and 550 RPM. It would be nice to have up to 1500 without losing the low speed. I might simply add a step pulley to the motor... again, it's nice to have the original look of the old machine.
These are great. I bought a bunch of them with blue LEDs. When I put a new 2HP inverter motor/vfd on my mill, I used one. Same thing on one drill press, and on my SB FOURTEEN lathe that has variable speeds, but whose analog meter isn’t the most accurate.
And for those doing this, make absolutely sure you have the correct side of the magnet facing the sensor. It won’t read otherwise. I also milled a pocket for the magnets, but epoxied them in place. For that, I use aluminum collars. It’s easy to make them. Don’t trust the magnet staying there. At some point, vibration and centripetal force will have it popping out, and shattering. I don’t trust super glue for this, vibration will break it loose.
Thanks for the magnet advice. Others have said the same. I guess i got lucky.
Most impressed with the idea, simple, cheap and effective. Thank you from Australia 😊 (and I'll be putting one on my Mill too :)
Cool. I hope you can find a deal like this down under.
You could get a magnet with a countersunk hole to attach it to your adapter, thereby preventing it from coming loose. Super glue can loosen up over time.
True... so far its holding just with magnetism but I need to do something better.
@@WinkysWorkshop how about a set screw from the end?
@@dans_Learning_Curve I liked the idea one guy had, run an end mill almost all the way thru from the other side. So there is a lip to hold the magnet.
@@WinkysWorkshop and the magnetic would go in from the inside?
@@dans_Learning_Curve That would be the best for sure!
I manufacture a bunch of RC Aircraft kits. I use magnets to hold wings on small models and hatches on all models. If you use super glue, the shock of the magnets coming together always causes micro fractures in the glue releasing the magnets in short order. Epoxy is soft enough that it lasts forever. Burnish the magnet a little with fine sandpaper first. You won't be snapping anything onto your magnet, so CA is likely to work ok. Nice project. Looking forward to watching the rest of the video.
I agree, epoxy is better in many situations. Although super glue is amazing stuff for some things. Like Balsa wood!
Mill out a place for the magnet and glue it in with lock tight 638. To get it back out you would have to heat the shaft to melt the lock tight otherwise it's there forever. I've used it several times on the neodymium strong magnets. Never lost one yet.
Cool, I'll try it
I have one on each of my lathes. Very handy to make sure you have the leavers in the right spots to get the rpm's you desire.
Yep, thanks
How simple is that! Funny how it takes a while to stabilise the reading. Maybe leaving it powered up with its own switch?
Hello Mark. I may do that. Maybe even leave it on. I'm not worried about the power but I thought it might shorten the life of the electronics. For $18 Bucks maybe I need to buy a couple replacements.
Hi Winky, Man you have that Lathe running like a Swiss Watch. It’s so quite you hardly hear it. I like these little Digital RPM Meters. I bought one awhile back for my Mill. Thanks for another Great Video. I use my Tap Handle that I made just like yours all the Time. I watched your Video on how you made it, and it sure is handy. Anyway, keep the Videos coming, I really enjoy all of them.👍❤️
Thanks, I love to hear this. Yeah, that tap handle is very handy.
Great video. I just ordered this unit from eBay for my lathe. Thanks for showing how it's installed and works.
A very simple install. I like it. Thanks
Nice improvement Mark. You have to like that there is no complicated electronics that you have to deal with. I liked the little duel rod drill press vice that you were using when you were welding the bracket.
Yes very simple. Ah yes, I think that is the first time I have ever used that vise. I got three of them with my mill and that one was sitting further back on the shelf.
and what a nice late
@@henkholdingastate It's a 1931 11-inch South Bend, thanks
Great addition to the lathe. I may add one to my old Clausing 100 and my Walker Turner drill press. Thanks for sharing with us
You bet. Cheap and easy to install too
Great find!
I reckon the magnet carrier should of be made from a plastic - it might be taking time to settle because the magnetic field is dispersed by the metal holder around the magnet?
Could be... maybe aluminum.
The Magnet they supply with the sensor I purchased was next to useless if there is a lot of metal surrounding it. Use a larger magnet for reliability.
mine works imbedded in a steel tube but after I installed it I found instructions on the Amazon page that said it needed to be imbedded or attached to something non-magnetic.
That's really a nice addition.
Well worth the effort.
Now you know your speeds.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
You bet, thanks for watching
I did the same thing on my Craftsman/Atlas 12" lathe, same time I converted to variable speed treadmill motor. I was able to attach the magnet with JB Weld directly to the surface of the shoulder of main spindle gear. That was about 3 or 4 years ago, and it has never flown off.
that's great. Mine is still there. I mounted mine to a steel sleeve but later I found some instructions on the Amazon page that said it should be mounted on a non-magnetic surface. Hmmm... mine of on steel and works well.
@WinkysWorkshop yes that, plus I found my prox sensor was magnetically polarity sensitive. Had to be sure I had the "trigger pole" mounted outward
Nice job, although I am concerned about no strain relief & bushing on the AC line into the switchbox.
Thanks. Technically this would be a good idea but the wire I used is very industrial (thick insulation). Plus the wire will never be moved like it would be with a normal power cord.
Another project brought to a successful conclusion. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thanks, will do!
Wanted to put a tach on my old Jet 1024 lathe but didn’t have a good mounting solution. Think I’ll try your approach. Thanks for the video!
You bet, thanks for watching
I had just ordered one of these tachs., should arrive today. Was starting to think of where to mount sensor. Liked your approach here.
And wanted to make a "cats head" for that far end of my spindle anyway for centering long pieces in this 1 3/8" spindle throat. (I may consider tacking my new piece to the spindle with a few TIG weld tacks to assure it stays put - as long as I don't get too much heat to damage/warp bearings or spindle). Although I suppose JB weld might be a good option as well, with set screws still for safety. So would make the steel tube extension longer than yours for the catshead screws to not interfere with the sensor.
In process of converting my 1/2 HP AC motor on an 11" Logan, to a 1.25 HP DC motor (treadmill motor) with speed control. So will incorporate the tach in the same housing.
Will be great to be able to set speed, even if just avoiding chatter in some instances. But also want to be able to slow start as well - should allow me to 'carefully' run in reverse (without losing the chuck) for threading in reverse direction to assure I don't crash the lathe.
Also really liked the idea of having the calculator there mounted - especially for those of us without a DRO. Just like I have different sets of tools at different 'stations' around the place - prevents the searching and shuffling of gear from place to place. So will have to pull out one of my old calcs to put there. ...where is that old HP35 -- LOL.
Also think I should make a flip chart mounted there for having speed tables handy - have to see if I can find some tables which are practical & hobby lathe friendly. I'm a newbie at this.
Yeah... I like the flip chart idea. I have a bunch on the wall but I can't see them. The VFD would be nice for chatter and the Speed Indicator is a must.
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks -- For me if the data is not handy I will "guesstimate".
Similar reason why I have 4 trashcans with a broom and dustpan at each -- for less "mess-timation". LOL
I super glued the magnet to my three jaw chuck for my tach set up on my Craftsman lathe. It came off once but stayed on the chuck somehow. I degreased the surfaces and glued it back on. It gets a few shavings on it but I carefully wipe them off. Sure don't want that magnet ending up in the gears.
The power source for my readout is a nine volt battery. Amazon has a box with an on off switch just for a nine volt.
9V would be easier but I like not having to worry about batteries
Not a bad idea but I change chucks a lot
@@WinkysWorkshop It's easy to knock off even with the glue. I also catches a lot of metal dust but it wipes off easily.
@@perdidocamaronero5400 I'd drill a small hole and glue it in.
I did the same thing on my wood lathe that was belt driven and could just have easily figured out the speeds by sheave sizes but the readout is nice. Did put one on my metal lathe as it was variable speed and had no factory speed indication.
Thank requires math! Haha... Actually the flat belts are easy but the pulley on the motor is small and I'm never sure where to calculate the diameter? Inside the belt or outside or half way? Then the back gear ratio is unknown.
Nice find, casually searched once but all I found was low voltage displays and I sure didn't want another low voltage adapter creating a spider's nest of wires.
Also reminds me I need to paint my South Bend someday, they sure look nice with new paint...
Thanks on the south bend and I totally agree... i hate a bunch of wires!
A thin figure 8 lead from an old 12VDC plug pack is not so onerous I think. Better than messing with mains wiring.
@@Bennyboy-dog Messing with the main power was easy and I didn't want more wires and outlets to deal with. 12V would be okay if I had to but the 120v option is better for me.
@@WinkysWorkshop Coming from a 240V environment I guess I view this from a different angle, but yes, fair enough - whatever works.
@@Bennyboy-dog Yeah... I can understand that. I've been shocked by 120v a couple time. I didn't like it but. I'm still here.
You will like it and wonder how you got along with out it-- I put one on my lathe about 10 years ago or longer when I converted to a thread mill motor and got variable speed but my lathe is a Harbor Freight 9X20 and if I remember wright I used JB Weld to glue magnet to spindle and I think the north side of magnet had to point to pick up but I may be wrong
Interesting, maybe I need to flip the magnet. Maybe it will stabilize quicker.
Beautiful job there Winky!! Wowzers, you went to whole lots more trouble on yours with special brackets and stuff than I did. I just made a wooden box for the display and power supply, and JB Weld glued the magnet to a gear hub on the spindle in my little Craftsman 12" lathe. It works perfectly so far, but I really like the fabrication you did on yours, and it looks lots better than my installation!
Thanks! There wasn't any good spot to put my magnet.
Magnet mount could be on the inside of the ring bore for security. Drill through from the opposite side, pocket it into the receiving side. Might need to drill a hole in the pocket floor for the right magnetics for the Hall effect sensor.
That would have been the best approach!
The tachometer description recommends using non-ferrous material to hold the magnet. Also, since the sensor works up to 10 mm away, wrap the magnet with electrical tape or if you want to be quick and dirty, zip tie it in place.
Yeah... mine did not come with instructions but I found out about the non-ferrous metal looking the Amazon page. It seems to work... I missed the 10mm spec, Thanks!
I tried this on my LMS 7350 lathe, and when I turned up the speed the magnet that comes with it flew off the spindle. I tried a stronger magnet I got out of a computer hard drive and it worked great. I didn't need to add or modify anything to the spindle other than the magnet. The magnet is strong enough to stay put. Now I just need to come up with a way to permanently attach the sensor and the display and wire it up.
Cool! I found out later that the Amazon page has some instructions on it. Apparently the magnet is supposed to be mounted in a non-magnetic surface. I mounted mine in steel and it worked.
Nice addition to your lathe! I was thinking that another option for retaining the magnet might have been to bore a slightly smaller hole through both sides of the spindle extension the n drilling almost through with a full diameter bit. You would need to grind the bit flat to finish the hole bottom. It might have been "fiddly" to get that to work just right. Loctite would give a little extra retention as well but it looks like it is going to work just fine like it is!
Great idea! I like that!
As you mentioned near the end I think I would have wired it direct or at least have a separate switch to shut if off when you leave the shop. Since you need to turn the lathe off to change speeds there is that lag (pretty short) to stabilize. But at least you have more than a guess on the speed.
Going on and off doesn't seem to bother the display but you could be right.
I finished installing the tachometer on my Jet lathe today and mounted it on the back of the headstock. Power is from a 110V socket behind the lathe but it’s still slow ramping up and turning off. Not bad for 20 bucks, thanks to Winky.
I agree... for 20 bucks I can wait 4 seconds
@@WinkysWorkshop Check out Mr. Pete’s Saturday video that I helped him produce by surface grinding two small angle plates to inspection grade. The title is “Precision Grinding Angle Plate’s”. Collaboration with Ellie Price.
@@ellieprice363 I just watched it, Very nice video! Isn't Mr. Pete a great guy? I met him at the Florida Flywheeler event last year. Thanks for letting me know about this video!
@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, Mr. Pete is a super nice guy and a wonderful teacher. I've never met him in person but enjoy sending him ideas to use on his channel. My primary purpose is to help him reach 300K subscribers which may be possible if he continues to publish his great videos. BTW, you're doing great. I see you've received over 13K views on your latest.
@@ellieprice3396 Yeah... this one is 34K which is great.
This is fantastic, thank you for posting! I'll order one for both my lathe and mill. Currently no clue what rpm they actually run. Can't wait to find out!
Very cool! Thanks
I installed a similar one I purchased off Amazon on my Clausing 5904 lathe and it works great. I however needed to replace the magnet with a stronger one. I epoxied mine onto the spindle and mounted the sensor under the side cover.
Thanks for sharing
You can get a small handheld tacho which using for the speeding of model plane prop which is handy oslo
I forgot about those things... that would be handy to have
I called some local (past) used equipment dealers I used to deal with here in FL to see what they had and they said that decent used stuff had become impossible find and what they do find is badly worn out. They gave up trading in it and now just sell the new stuff now like Grizzley, Jet and some cheaper copies.
I much prefer the older stuff. With that being said, most often these machines have wear, sometimes significant. My South Bend is worn fairly bad. If I was running a machine shop I'd look for new or newer machines but for hobby use I can take the time to work around the wear. I usually buy from individuals but have bought from dealers as well. My Hardinge lathe and Avey drill press came from a dealer. The Great Lakes area is a hot bed of used machines. I'm in KY so I sometimes end up driving a long distance. I mill was over 300 miles away.
Always look forward to seeing your post!
Thanks!
Nice installation. I just ordered three of them. Thanks for sharing.
Right on! They work well.
I like it. For $ 18 is well worth it. Gonna order several for my drill press, vertical mill, and lathe. 👍👍
For sure cheap and they seem to work well!
I put the same tach on my old Boice-Crane wood lathe. I like it.
Me too! Thanks
I have some of these as well. I put one on a drill press with a VFD and it works great. I need to put the others on the lathe and mill when I get some time.
I'd like to do that with my mill also. Both the VFD and indicator!
Really nice...I also love the calculator mount...that's a great idea
Yeah... I got tired of losing the calculator! ha
I put one similar to that one on my old craftsman lathe,, it works fine too although I don't know what speed to run the lathe for every different job anyway.. lol but it looks purty.
If you know the RPM and the diameter you can calculate the surface speed (SFPM=Surface Feet Per Minute Dia is in inches that's why things get divided by 12 π= 3.14145927=Pi). You use this formula SFPM = (π x Dia x RPM) / 12 And if you want to know what RPM to go for a particular diameter to get a certain surface speed then you use this formula RPM = SFPM / (π x (Dia / 12)) HSS cutting mild steel you want to keep it under 100 SFPM. I have a chart hanging up so I'm not using those formulas all the time.
This is handy. www.machiningdoctor.com/charts/sfm-to-rpm/
@@WinkysWorkshop I'm not sure if the SFPM to metric is particularly handy. 😜
@@1pcfred Maybe for some... my brain is programmed for Inches and Feet. Admittedly an inferiors system.
@@WinkysWorkshop I do not find standard to be inferior to metric for what I use it for. I am not a scientist. I only build their laboratories for them.
Velice pěkná práce. Fortel vám nechybí. Díky za tato videa. Hodně mě inspirují.👍 Very nice work. Great. Thank you.👍
Your welcome, thanks for watching. AND thanks for the translation too!
I see a few uses for such a tach. And it makes it a lot easier to repeat a setting on variable speed power tools. Set speeds via belts or gears, once noted, will always be the same speeds there after (hopefully). But variable speed equipment makes it easier to set certain speeds... Thumbs Up!
I totally agree. Thanks
Always nice to have a speed display-takes the guess work out.
I installed the same one on my Clausing 15" variable speed drill press. Magnet wasn't a problem: i put a piece of double sided tape on the fixed side of the vari-drive pully with the magnet on top. Magnetic force and the sticky-ness of the tape have held it in place for 2 years now. The prox mounting bracket was a little tricky but with creative bending and tapped holes conveniently provided by Clausing it was fairly easy. I used an off the shelf electrical enclosure for the display unit and have it continuously powered on as long as the drill press is plugged in.
That's what I plan to do, add this to my old DP.
Yeah, always on is probable a good way to go.
why ?the machine must have a speed chart so what with the RPM s
@@danhayward9186 Agree... for a variable speed drive its a huge advantage. My lathe doesn't have a speed chart. It was originally intended for overhead drives although it had options for motor brackets. Nevertheless, I made the drive and at least the motor pulley is not original (even if I had a speed chart). Yeah... I did some math but I wasn't sure where to measure the diameter of the drive pulley for the V-belt. It's about 1/2" thick. Do you use the small diameter or the outside of the belt..... maybe halfway between? Either way... the speed indicator was almost as easy as the math. :o)
what a great little build,,,,,,gong to have to make on for my SB also......cheers, Paul and best wishes.....
Thanks Paul, its an easy thing to do and its nice to know the speeds... cheap too!
Nicely done project, Mark. I just choose the speed visually for what I'm doing. Just seem to have a knack for that.
Same here really. Still nice to know the speed however
Hi Winky, if it's not a daft question, what have you actually achieved by fitting this to your fixed speed lathe ? Once you know what the 6 spindle speeds are, it is totally useless. I can understand having it if your motor was a VFD, but your motor is fixed at about 1425 or 1700. Once you know the pulley diameters it is a simple calculation to get the speeds, and even if you got it wrong by a few RPM, does it really matter as you can not alter what it is. I wonder how long it will last with it keep going on and off every time you start and stop the motor ? All you needed if you are unable to remember what the spindle speed are, is either a small chart or a Dymo label. Regards from Australia.
Let me look up daft.... uh, yeah... maybe daft :o)
Honestly, I'm not sure on the back gear ratio and wasn't sure what diameter to use for the motor pulley. Maybe you know. It's about 3" on the OD of the belt and just over 2" on the ID.
It's always good to verify what's going on.
I have that same device on my mini lathe. It works great!
Yes it does! Thanks
You should add bolts to your spindle extension to make it into a Lathe Spider as well as holding your magnet. If you move the magnet towards the lathe it seems like there would be space.
Dang... NOW THAT is a GREAT idea!
Since you sunk the magnet down in the hole a little bit, a couple light Center Punch Dimples on either side of it would "Stake" It in place so it can't fly out.
A good idea I'm sure. So far I've been lucky.... it's still in place and held by magnetism. Also, after installing the magnet I found instructions on the Amazon page. It said to mount the magnet in a non-magnetic material. I mounted in steel but it works.
I didn't think of the Non-magnetic mount till you mentioned it @@WinkysWorkshop but eventually it may lose its magnetism and/or spread the magnetic field around the circumference affecting the accuracy of your tach.
A piece of PVC Tubing might have been a better choice of material. . .
@@oldSawyer I was thinking aluminum but PVC would work as well.
am assuming on the prox switch the black lead is ground but not shure of the pos lead color and does the leads wire togather with the meter leads ?
I cant remember and mine had no instructions. Later I found them on the amazon page for this product. Also, i mounted my magnet in steel. It works but the instructions say to use plastic or aluminum.
@@WinkysWorkshop ok, thank you
Hello, I know that this is a bit old, but I am setting up my mill with a new 3 phase motor and a VFD. I was wondering if you ever switched it to be powered all the time, and if it made a difference in the time that it takes to give a steady reading? Thanks
I just turned the lathe on with slack in the belt and then tightened it. It seems to take about the same time to stabilize. I suspect it might be due to the fact that my magnet is mounted in steel. After installing the speed indicator I found the instructions on line. It said i was supposed to mount the magnet in something non-magnetic like aluminum. I suspect this would help a lot.
Winky I just received mine in the mail. I think I have this figured out but want your advice before doing it. The pigtail with the red blue and brown goes to the sensor and then plugs into the back of the display and then you need to make up a drop cord and hook it up to the blue plug on the back of the display unit and then plug it into a wall socket correct. Wiring is not my strong point and just need a little help. Thanks.
Sorry black brow and blue on the sensor
You got it. If your lathe is 120V just hook into the main power at your switch and have two smaller wires go to the display. I'd say you could do it before the switch and just leave it on all the time. I was worried it might shorten the life of the display but who knows if this is true. If you don't feel comfortable doing the wiring get some help. I'd hate to hear about one of my viewers getting electrocuted!!!!
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you my only thoughts was how small the ports were for the AC Current and seeing it had no instructions with it I did not want to hook it up wrong and shorten out the unit. I'm having a problem finding a place to put the magnet on my South Ben the motor is down in the cabinet and my side door that covers the change gears has to be opened every day to oil my reverse gear and with something in the end of the spindle the side door will not open.
@@anthonycash4609 I'm not sure what to tell you on the magnet location but it needs to be on the spindle or bull gear. Yes the power wires going to the display need to be small gauge.
@@WinkysWorkshop finished my lathe speed meter today winky. Slow 471 medium 798 fast 1375 forgot to check back gear. I ended up putting the magnet on the end of the spindle like you did. Works good thanks for your help.
really great installation. you do nice work
Thank you!
Neat little gadget and a clever installation, too!!
Thanks!
I got a set of sheep castrators for stretching shrink tube over places it would not normally fit. Cool lathe BTW.
Haha... now that is creative!
I have one on the old Craftsman Lathe . They work pretty good for the $ ! ENJOYED the vid ..
Thanks, yes I agree. Cheap!
something I can't understand, once you know the speed of the chuck at all belt settings, and back gears, what purpose does the RPM indicator serve? Seems just a small chart on the wall would suffice and then the indicator could be better used on a mill, drill press or any other tool with a VFD or variable pulley that has no set speed. Just my 2cents
Of course you are right and I knew about what they were. The math was easy although I didn't know where to measure the V-belt pulley on the motor. On the outside of the belt or inside. This makes a big difference.... and the indicator was easy.
@@WinkysWorkshop I must have implied that the rev counter was of no value...sorry. What I should have said that just chucking the magnet is some temporary holder, noting the rpm for all possible belt combinations and making a chart would relieve the rev counter for some other application that is more variable.
@@Uts9000 No need to explain. You make a good point. I will say however, it's convenient to see. It's hard to find a place to post a speed chart in my shop. I'm now thinking about an easy access flip chart with tabs. I have stuff plastered everywhere.
I can't help but think the readout would be a function of the diameter on the sleeve that holds the magnet. Do they provide any adjustment for this? Nice job thanks for the video.
A larger diameter would have greater surface speed but exactly the same RPM. No adjustment needed. Kind of like a clock. You can use the same clock works in any size dial you want.
@@WinkysWorkshop That was explained very well. Thanks.
@@MrModify Thanks.
Ratios only come into play when there's one thing spinning another thing. Like say two pulleys or gears. But if you spin a cone it's all spinning at the same RPM.
@@1pcfred you are right my brain must have been out of gear when I asked about it.
Wouldn't it have been easier to drill a hole in the side of the spindle gear for the maginet?
On the outboard side I'd have to drill a hole in the guard for the sensor and I'm not willing to do that on this old lathe. The bull gear has the pin that you disengage for back gear that would obstruct the sensor.
Thank you for this. I'm going to use this for a shopsmith.
You're welcome, I made a mistake, the piece you mount the magnet in needs to be aluminum. I used steel and it worked but it would likely work better if I had used plastic or aluminum. Good luck
Great video as usual. Keep them coming👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Someone just gave away a lathe just like this that was pretty crusty. But I didnt get to it fast enough. Seeing this one all cleaned up makes it hurt.
Oooh... no kidding. Mine looked bad when I got it.
Really sexy on off switch. You probably stole it from a wall in your house.
I always have trouble with these rpm monitors. The light comes on but rpm doesn’t show. Yes, I know about the polarity of the magnet. Always have to fuss with them.
Love your videos. Wish you were my neighbor. 😬
Paul
Ha, thanks. On this indicator I found out later the magnet holder this be aluminum on non-magnetic. It works with steel but maybe better with non-magnetic.
Well done. Now you can see the turns.
I have a question. Say the calculator on top is battery powered or did you make a separate power supply.
Its battery and solar I'm not sure I have ever seen one of these go dead.
Thank you. Understood.
I'd wire it differnetly: let indicate when the lathe is not running.
That might be best although it seems to work like it is (at least for now)
I would have drill through both sides with a smaller bit and enlarge the hole drill with an exact size of the magnet stop short from going through the opposite side leaving a small lip to hold the magnet from centrifugal force. No glue required. But this is hind sight. Great idea and skill.
I agree... in hindsight.. Ha, I may modify. Thanks!
So it’s been a year of using that tachometer… how’s it holding up?
I have a South Bend lathe I would like to use this on
Still going strong!
Could you not have just gotten an optical tachometer and just written down the Chuck speed with all six combinations and post ot on your lathe someplace?
I guess I don’t understand the need to have the speed displayed all the time.
You make a very good point although the cheapest tach I found was $36 and this was $18 and not hard to install
I got like number 200! How cool is that?!
Always enjoy your videos!
Thanks Dan!
Thanks for another informative video Winkey
Any time! Thanks for watching.
Winky. Do you use gas in your MIG welding or flux core? I’m using flux core and my welds look like crap. Splatter everywhere but where I want it. I want to be able to weld but it never works out well.
I have a stick welder. Do you think I would have better luck with that? I plan on getting gas for the MiG but haven’t yet.
Just wanted your opinion on the difference between gas MiG and flux core MiG.
Paul
I gave up on MIG. TIG is much easier. I did a review on a Vevor TIG but they no longer make the one I reviewed. If I was doing production welding I would probably use MIG but my TIG welds look MUCH better than my MIG. If you just want to weld steel I recommend getting the cheapest 220V TIG. Inverter technology has progressed and I suspect most TIGs are good welder.
great Stuff Mr Winky, cheers from Central Florida, Paul
Glad you enjoyed it
Instead of heat shrink you can use a plastic soda bottle, when you heat them they shrink tight.
Cool idea!
Thanks, just ordered one for my Atlas 12.
Cool, let me know how it works out.
Very nice. I've been looking for a way to get a rpm readout. Thank you!
Your welcome. It's certainly simple.
Just got it in today. I'm still working through my lathe restore. Is there no ground for the it? You just feed power to one of the terminals right?
Thank you. I just ordered one for my Grizzly lathe. 😁👍
Cool
Glad it works for you. I would have made the sleeve out of aluminium so you have no magnetism on the sleeve instead of the magnet itself.
I think you are right although it seems to work fine. Maybe I got lucky.
About attaching rare earth magnets: resist the urge to use JB Weld. I mean unless you want to amuse the grand kids.
Why would this amuse the grandkids?
@@WinkysWorkshop If you put JB Weld on rare earth magnets the epoxy migrates over the entire surface and forms geometrically precise patterns of spikes. I found it amusing and was once a grandkid.
@@markkoons7488 Ah... now that I think about it that makes sense. Thanks
What a beautiful lathe, it looks like the lathe i recently bought. I like the counter as well. I was watching a movie while watching this video so i dont know if i missed it but was there a DRO on it or is it possible for one to be fitted on the compound?.
No DRO which is why I need the calculator :o)
@@WinkysWorkshop ok thanks
Nice work again, simple solution.
Yes, thanks
As usual, great job. Is that sleeve aluminum or steel?
Paul
Like I said in the other comment, it is steel but it should be aluminum
I was thinking you could take a center punch and peen over the metal two places on the o.d. to be sure the magnet won't fly out (while removed from the spindle, of course). Nice video Winky.
Thats a vert good idea, I may do that. Thanks!
Excellent work
Thank you! Cheers!
Can anyone help I bought on of these and the terminal layout on the display is in Chinese
Many thanks Elliot
Hello Elliot, look on the Amazon page where you ordered, there is a picture with a diagram. Also, it says to mount the magnet to something none magnetic (aluminum). I mounted mine to steel and it works but aluminum is probably better.
@@WinkysWorkshop thank you very much silly me
@@elliotneck8395 No problem! I overlooked this also. Thanks why I used steel to mount the magnet.
Wink, what happened to the Logan lathe?
I sold it... miss that lathe but I didn't have the space for it.
good idea and clean work
Thank you very much
Awesome! Also I’ve been meaning to ask you what brand that awesome dovetail style vice is you’re always using in your vids? I want one, really really want one lol
I got that at a garage sale 30 years ago. It is an excellent vice but has one big negative. The back jaw moves instead of the front. This makes it impossible to hold stock vertically below the vice. I'm not sure on the brand but it's make in Poland.
@@WinkysWorkshop interesting I didn’t even notice that. Very cool, thank you.
@@WinkysWorkshop interesting I didn’t even notice that. Very cool, thank you.
@@electropancake1554 No problem
I just checked out this on Amazon. Pretty Slick!
Cool... and cheap.
Thanks, Wink....
Just placed the order on Amazon.....
Cool.. I think its a great deal
I see a possible new project, a powered brake for bending heavy gauge sheet metal. 🙂
CA glue would probably work and if you had to remove it just soak the piece in some Acetone.
Nice, I've already ordered one for my shop.
Maybe but i have a space problem to deal with... I need a bigger shop!
Cool. With fixed speed combinations like yours and mine it has limited usefulness because you already know the speed of each combo, unless you can get variable speed on your machine. I'd like to see something that reads the SFM for the diameter being turned.
Surface speed would be nice!
Speed matters. Good job
Yes it does, thanks!