Just the input I needed, Andy. I discovered your channel yesterday and I've been discovering a lot about chainsaw chains from you. God bless you and thank you kindly.
Hi Andy, it's funny you're saying that. I've not used 1 myself but ALOT of people reckon they're the best think since sliced bread. So many people have recommended them to me.
Informative video as always , I have never used the "new" style sharpener , I understand with new candidates it could pose an issue , but if its in good hands and powerful enough then it's fine,on my last refresher I piggy backed onto a newbie course, one lad fell over twice cross cutting with the saw running, which I suppose what your leaning towards, I personally love a saw to grab hold and pull itself in to a cut , it's 100% about being firm with the saw .. confident and perhaps most importantly don't go near the " kick back " zone ... I'm a full chisel type of a guy 👊👊👊👊... looking forward to the next one ...cheers
I like a saw that cuts well and pulls with no effort, but this is not for the recently trained, experienced operators only, but they don't need it, cheers
I've experienced the same overly aggressive chain with the 2 in 1 sharpener. The chain grabbing / chattering instead of cutting smoothly. Todd said pushing down too hard instead of into the cutter. I tend to file pretty aggressively so his suggestion might be the difference? I'm gonna give it a try because I really like the speed attained sharpening my MS 250 with the 2 in 1 compared to the old 2 step process, which I've done for 43 years.
Hi, the pushing down too hard will have little effect with the 2 in 1 as it does not flex with guides running on the top plates and depth gauges. I set my gauges manually at 0.8mm (30 thou) and that gives a good balance, cheers
I have the 2in 1 for both my ,325. And 3/8. I agree regards grabby. But I still do like and rate it , I'd say use it second or third Time , I use the standard Stihl file holder thingy as standard.
I use one of these a lot a really like it but I suppose you could remove the flat file and make it a 1 in 1 sharpener. Just use the flat file with a normal depth gauge file jig every few sharpens.
Kickback is because people do not watch the end of their bar or they are cutting at less than WFO. My eyes are always on the tip of the bar to insure it does not contact anything and in a cut I am always running the saw wide open, except at the very bottom of the cut and I am trying to cut through the log without getting my bar in the dirt. Then, I kind of milk the throttle until the cut is finished and the kerf seperated.
John, thanks for the comment, even with avoidance of the lick back zone, a chain with lower depth gauges will give a harsh cut and make the operator work to keep control. It's a fine balance between a smooth pulling cat and harsh vibration and aggressive cutting. Cheers
@@TheInfoworks I always sharpen every new chain and check the rakers on them. I got several new Oregon chains in the past couple of years whose rakers varied in height between the left and right side cutters. Talk about crooked cutting chains. I like the little Baileys File o plates but I do not have one for 3/8 full chisel chain. I have one for 3/8 LP but not full house, full chisel. I just do them by eye and this method has served me well. Anytime you are cutting you better keep both eyes on the chain at all times, just like you do on the axe head when cutting with an axe. Saws are dangerous pieces of equipment and anytime you get lackadaisical with them you are just asking for trouble. I respect them and they respect me and I like it that way.
Strange. I'm seeing the exact opposite. I'm reading a raker depth of only .019" under the tops of two adjacent teeth, and the center square file of my Stihl 2-in-1 still isn't touching them! I'm working on a "WoodlandPro 33RP" 3/8" .063ga non-skip Carlton A3 chain. It's a ripping chain so the teeth are ground at 10 degrees rather than the typical 30. I clamp an angle guide to my bar and visually line up the 2-in-1 tool to it. But that shouldn't affect the depths built in to the 2-in-1 tool. I'm also noticing that the round files hit really high up on the tooth. The file is around 60% below and 40% above the top of the tooth. The result is that the 'face' of the tooth is quite vertical, rather than that deep 'C' shape you normally get from manually filing with a round file.
Hi Andy, I tried the 2 in one set a few years ago and gave it away to a friend. I can sharpen a chain many times faster with just a file and a file handle. I then scan down the cutters looking at the rakers. If I see a raker taller than the cutter I give it a few licks with my raker file. I won’t saw my chains are not a bit hungry, they are, but they cut and pull the chain into the cut. I just thought they were to slow for my tastes. I can easily sharpen a 3/8, .050, 72 chain in less than 15 minutes. I think the 2 & 1 is designed for people that don’t know crap about sharpening chains, which does not fit me.
Andy - It's a shame that tool doesn't have some adjustment for the flat file in steps - I know this would make it more expensive and possibly less reliable without careful design and a lot of testing - but how much better it could be ! I have never sharpened to anything like 0.9, but I can imagine how fierce it is. unpleasant, professional or not..Cheers, Dave
Not fear. "Overly" aggressive chain chatters and jumps and binds having to continually pull back and re engage cutting. Not good for the saw engine, overstresses the chain, takes longer to make the cut, breaks chain teeth sooner, etc.
Have noticed exactly the same for the similar Pfraud sharpening tools which I use. My workaround is to use the tool every third or fourth sharpen. It's OK for the captive saw on the processor but far too grabby for safe everyday use imo👍
I have gone full circle on sharpening. File guide to roller to 2 in 1 and back to roller guide. The 2 in 1 is a gimic that sort of works OK ish but as stated it is a bit grabby. It will never beat a properly hand sharpened chain tho.
I’ve wondered what they would be like and shied away. Partly do to cost, (I buy my flat & round files by the box); partly due to the added bulk and partly due to either having to withdraw the flat file or carry another flat file, just to chamfer the rakers.
Just the input I needed, Andy. I discovered your channel yesterday and I've been discovering a lot about chainsaw chains from you. God bless you and thank you kindly.
Charlie, there's more to them than meets eye, cheers
Hi Andy, it's funny you're saying that.
I've not used 1 myself but ALOT of people reckon they're the best think since sliced bread. So many people have recommended them to me.
Just reporting what I find, only problem is it makes things difficult for trainees, cheers
Informative video as always , I have never used the "new" style sharpener , I understand with new candidates it could pose an issue , but if its in good hands and powerful enough then it's fine,on my last refresher I piggy backed onto a newbie course, one lad fell over twice cross cutting with the saw running, which I suppose what your leaning towards, I personally love a saw to grab hold and pull itself in to a cut , it's 100% about being firm with the saw .. confident and perhaps most importantly don't go near the " kick back " zone ... I'm a full chisel type of a guy 👊👊👊👊... looking forward to the next one ...cheers
I like a saw that cuts well and pulls with no effort, but this is not for the recently trained, experienced operators only, but they don't need it, cheers
Thanks Andy helpful information simply explained. Good quality clear pictures well lit today.
Martin, thanks for the comment, better video conditions in the workshop, cheers
I've experienced the same overly aggressive chain with the 2 in 1 sharpener. The chain grabbing / chattering instead of cutting smoothly. Todd said pushing down too hard instead of into the cutter. I tend to file pretty aggressively so his suggestion might be the difference? I'm gonna give it a try because I really like the speed attained sharpening my MS 250 with the 2 in 1 compared to the old 2 step process, which I've done for 43 years.
Hi, the pushing down too hard will have little effect with the 2 in 1 as it does not flex with guides running on the top plates and depth gauges. I set my gauges manually at 0.8mm (30 thou) and that gives a good balance, cheers
I have the 2in 1 for both my ,325. And 3/8. I agree regards grabby. But I still do like and rate it , I'd say use it second or third Time , I use the standard Stihl file holder thingy as standard.
Tom, as you say "grabby" and I think not for the novice, cheers
I use one of these a lot a really like it but I suppose you could remove the flat file and make it a 1 in 1 sharpener. Just use the flat file with a normal depth gauge file jig every few sharpens.
That's what I tell students to prevent uncontrollable cutting, fine for cross cutting but for boring cuts it's impossible, cheers
Kickback is because people do not watch the end of their bar or they are cutting at less than WFO. My eyes are always on the tip of the bar to insure it does not contact anything and in a cut I am always running the saw wide open, except at the very bottom of the cut and I am trying to cut through the log without getting my bar in the dirt. Then, I kind of milk the throttle until the cut is finished and the kerf seperated.
John, thanks for the comment, even with avoidance of the lick back zone, a chain with lower depth gauges will give a harsh cut and make the operator work to keep control. It's a fine balance between a smooth pulling cat and harsh vibration and aggressive cutting. Cheers
@@TheInfoworks I always sharpen every new chain and check the rakers on them. I got several new Oregon chains in the past couple of years whose rakers varied in height between the left and right side cutters. Talk about crooked cutting chains. I like the little Baileys File o plates but I do not have one for 3/8 full chisel chain. I have one for 3/8 LP but not full house, full chisel. I just do them by eye and this method has served me well. Anytime you are cutting you better keep both eyes on the chain at all times, just like you do on the axe head when cutting with an axe. Saws are dangerous pieces of equipment and anytime you get lackadaisical with them you are just asking for trouble. I respect them and they respect me and I like it that way.
see, i jus got one an yeah thats a issue im glad u pointed out
Yes I advise students to remove the square file and use a separate depth gauge tool and file, cheers
Strange. I'm seeing the exact opposite. I'm reading a raker depth of only .019" under the tops of two adjacent teeth, and the center square file of my Stihl 2-in-1 still isn't touching them!
I'm working on a "WoodlandPro 33RP" 3/8" .063ga non-skip Carlton A3 chain. It's a ripping chain so the teeth are ground at 10 degrees rather than the typical 30. I clamp an angle guide to my bar and visually line up the 2-in-1 tool to it. But that shouldn't affect the depths built in to the 2-in-1 tool.
I'm also noticing that the round files hit really high up on the tooth. The file is around 60% below and 40% above the top of the tooth. The result is that the 'face' of the tooth is quite vertical, rather than that deep 'C' shape you normally get from manually filing with a round file.
Colin, there's something not right you should be getting a .025 depth gauge setting and .030 would be better, cheers
There is a vast chasm between a tradesman and a master craftsman.
I think is starts with fascination and the need to know, cheers
@@TheInfoworks An enquiring mind and a drive to be the best.
Hi Andy, I tried the 2 in one set a few years ago and gave it away to a friend. I can sharpen a chain many times faster with just a file and a file handle. I then scan down the cutters looking at the rakers. If I see a raker taller than the cutter I give it a few licks with my raker file. I won’t saw my chains are not a bit hungry, they are, but they cut and pull the chain into the cut. I just thought they were to slow for my tastes. I can easily sharpen a 3/8, .050, 72 chain in less than 15 minutes. I think the 2 & 1 is designed for people that don’t know crap about sharpening chains, which does not fit me.
Andy - It's a shame that tool doesn't have some adjustment for the flat file in steps - I know this would make it more expensive and possibly less reliable without careful design and a lot of testing - but how much better it could be ! I have never sharpened to anything like 0.9, but I can imagine how fierce it is. unpleasant, professional or not..Cheers, Dave
Dave, odd isn't it how convenience takes precedence over skill, cheers
I like aggressive chains. I'm not scared and these things work just fine. Buy a low kick if you are a chicken.
Not fear. "Overly" aggressive chain chatters and jumps and binds having to continually pull back and re engage cutting. Not good for the saw engine, overstresses the chain, takes longer to make the cut, breaks chain teeth sooner, etc.
Excellent video Andy, can you do a video of how sharpen yours without the sthil guide. Interesting to watch you do it. Cheers pat
Pat , maybe but there will always be someone who knows much better, let me think about it, cheers
Have noticed exactly the same for the similar Pfraud sharpening tools which I use.
My workaround is to use the tool every third or fourth sharpen. It's OK for the captive saw on the processor but far too grabby for safe everyday use imo👍
Jim, thanks for your confirmation of the effects and I agree it's a safety issue for all except the professionals, cheers
I have gone full circle on sharpening. File guide to roller to 2 in 1 and back to roller guide. The 2 in 1 is a gimic that sort of works OK ish but as stated it is a bit grabby. It will never beat a properly hand sharpened chain tho.
Ben, fully agree with you there, cheers
It's because you are pushing down instead of into the top plate
You know more than stihl with all there years and money invested in producks tell them they might give you a job
I’ve wondered what they would be like and shied away. Partly do to cost, (I buy my flat & round files by the box); partly due to the added bulk and partly due to either having to withdraw the flat file or carry another flat file, just to chamfer the rakers.
Old school methods are much more reliable and give greater control, cheers