Very good video, and what a design, I be dedicated for a few years now on this tape players, you are doing very well yourself! good thing you don’t forget the counter ! You’re one of the best I saw, thank you
Very nice work and video! Thanks1 Just a question.... I have an Akai GX-M10 that Im having problems closing the door... have to press hard and looks like it only closes the left side (there is a small hook inside)... Once it stays closed works well. but looking from the top you can see that the right side isn't really flash with the deck as it should be! Looks like something is jamming it (?)... THANKS for any help or hints!
Hello, thank you. As I recall, the cassette door is not built on the front panel in the gx10 deck. The front panel must be removed, then the cassette frame built on the mechanism must be dismantled together with the door. By removing it, you can check what is preventing the cassette door from moving. If it's OK, check that you put it back on the mechanics. It is likely that the door damper or springs were previously repaired and not properly assembled.
Thanks a lot for your reply… really appreciated. Actually I ended up opening the deck and discover what is the cause. I just don’t know the name of the part or neither I can see it in the manual. It’s a little still plate/lever located top center half inside … I think it’s broken…I would post a pic but not possible here! Thanks again… I have to try and know the name of that plate(small) and its function!
Thanks for posting this video! I’ve got an Akai GX-M10 that needs new belts. I’m guessing the process will be very similar to your deck (the service manual for the M10 is pretty sparse on that).
Hi My Friend! That Philips deck is a good device. Unfortunately, I don't have one. But not even in my environment. But once it happens, I'll make a video about it.
Question: your clear plastic VU meter covers cleaned up great. What product did you use to polish them? I need to do the same to mine (light scratches), but I don’t know what sort of polish is safe for this vintage clear plastic.
ruclips.net/video/WuncZ6-pw6I/видео.html In this video you can see how I repair plastic. But only transparent plastic can be polished in this way at a very slow speed. You can use any car polish. I hope the link works. If you don't look for it, Akai Csf11 is among my videos.
I have one that is struggling, wont forward but will reverse, eats tape, when it does play tape it sounds like it is not being played at a constant speed... is this thing worth trying to fix? is it probably just new belts and a cleaning? and one of the two takeup/supply reels, appears to have spring wrapped around it, or maybe it is actually unwrapped...
This doesn't seem like a terrible problem. Replace the pressure roller. And also the Drive belts. In the video, you can see how I took it out, and also take out the spindles and clean them so that they rotate well on the shaft. I don't think there is a problem with the motor or other control electronics.
@@retrodeck1956 thank you I appreciate your response... what about the spring that seems unwound on the right side either the take up or supply reel? on one you can see it is very tightly wound like it is supposed to be, and on the other it looks like it has unraveled....
If you mean what you see in the video at 12.40, there are two springs on the shaft, repair or replace them if they don't work well, because they prevent smooth rotation.
I am trying to adjust the azimuth on this deck, I chose the screw according to the service manual and it's doing nothing. Did you need to adjust your azimuth by any chance on this deck?
Although I did not adjust the head on this device, I did look at the service manual. Since this head is similar to reel to reel machines it will be a bit more difficult to adjust. A mirror cassette is required first. With this, you can set the bases according to the service manual. Then it is worth stating azimuth.
@@retrodeck1956 Thanks. If you ever do set the azimuth, it appears it's screw "d" you adjust, and not "e" as it states. You'll just spin a nut and adjust nothing at all.
Replaced all belts but rewind is very sluggish at best,i believe I'll try to locate a large tire for the rew.hub. Also the auto stop doesn't nor has it ever worked. Any idea on that would be appreciated at your leisure. Thanks Randy
Hi. You can see the drive in this video, you can only solve it by repairing the idlers and belts. However, the automatic shutdown can be due to many things. Check the plunger. This disconnects the mechanism. Check the voltages on the power supply board. The plunger works with 32 volts. On this panel you will find several diodes, check them as well. Here you will find a fuse resistor marked FR1. Replace this, it is most likely the fault.
@@retrodeck1956 Thank you kind sir for replying so quickly. My dumbass put the wrong rew/ff belt on as in putting the old one back on,I got them mixed up with a Pioneer ct-f1000's belt kit I'm working on that just happened to be too close. Anyway enough of my brain degenerative moments. I had no clue Fr1 was a fuse,so after I just read your post I checked it and got 90ohms darn the luck. The solenoid and plunger function well when temporarily as in split second shorting the ground terminal to the solenoid body or chassis gnd. D8 ,c13,c22 tr7 and 4 test good out of circuit. Thinking about looking at tr8 and tr6 tomorrow, as for now old butt is about to hit the bed after working on lawnmower then mowing and it is after midnight in my sleepy little town. Again thanks so much for taking the time to respond to your viewers! Kind Regards Randy Brown
@@RandyWBrown If the transistors are fine and the voltages are good, then only the solenoid switch can be checked. If I looked correctly, the signal is sw902. I hope the device was repaired. I have also been mowing the lawn for two days. But now it will be rest. Good luck to you. T Zoli
@@retrodeck1956 Hi Mr.Zoli and hope you're resting well on this fine Sunday afternoon. One quick question and I'll stop bothering you, I'm getting correct voltage everywhere on the ps board which as you mentioned earlier to check along with the reed switch. I get 34v on the collector of tr8 that goes directly to the reed switch when unit is not playing, just on. When play or ff/rew is pressed and counter is rotating, the voltage is all over the place from 0 to 32v and everywhere in between for milli seconds, shouldn't that be a stable voltage and if so I guess a new reed switch is in order. Thanks and enjoy the rest of your day. Kind Regards Randy
@@audioholmes My experience is that you rarely need to adjust the motor speed for these devices. But if you set it up, you would need an oscilloscope and a signal generator. Most of the problems are caused by belt or pinch roller faults.
Very good video, and what a design, I be dedicated for a few years now on this tape players, you are doing very well yourself! good thing you don’t forget the counter ! You’re one of the best I saw, thank you
Thank you for appreciating my work.
OMG. So much circuitry for a cassette deck!
I know, it is a 3 head deck, but still!
Very nice work and video! Thanks1 Just a question.... I have an Akai GX-M10 that Im having problems closing the door... have to press hard and looks like it only closes the left side (there is a small hook inside)... Once it stays closed works well. but looking from the top you can see that the right side isn't really flash with the deck as it should be! Looks like something is jamming it (?)... THANKS for any help or hints!
Hello, thank you. As I recall, the cassette door is not built on the front panel in the gx10 deck. The front panel must be removed, then the cassette frame built on the mechanism must be dismantled together with the door. By removing it, you can check what is preventing the cassette door from moving. If it's OK, check that you put it back on the mechanics. It is likely that the door damper or springs were previously repaired and not properly assembled.
Thanks a lot for your reply… really appreciated. Actually I ended up opening the deck and discover what is the cause. I just don’t know the name of the part or neither I can see it in the manual. It’s a little still plate/lever located top center half inside … I think it’s broken…I would post a pic but not possible here! Thanks again… I have to try and know the name of that plate(small) and its function!
Thanks for posting this video! I’ve got an Akai GX-M10 that needs new belts. I’m guessing the process will be very similar to your deck (the service manual for the M10 is pretty sparse on that).
Hello. Yes, the mechanics look a little different, but you can change the belt in the same way.
O meu amigo....bom dia....eu tenho um Deck Philips pra trocar engrenagens e correias, vc faz essa manutenção? O modelo dele é AW 721
Hi My Friend! That Philips deck is a good device. Unfortunately, I don't have one. But not even in my environment. But once it happens, I'll make a video about it.
Question: your clear plastic VU meter covers cleaned up great. What product did you use to polish them? I need to do the same to mine (light scratches), but I don’t know what sort of polish is safe for this vintage clear plastic.
ruclips.net/video/WuncZ6-pw6I/видео.html In this video you can see how I repair plastic. But only transparent plastic can be polished in this way at a very slow speed. You can use any car polish. I hope the link works. If you don't look for it, Akai Csf11 is among my videos.
I have one that is struggling, wont forward but will reverse, eats tape, when it does play tape it sounds like it is not being played at a constant speed... is this thing worth trying to fix? is it probably just new belts and a cleaning?
and one of the two takeup/supply reels, appears to have spring wrapped around it, or maybe it is actually unwrapped...
This doesn't seem like a terrible problem. Replace the pressure roller. And also the Drive belts. In the video, you can see how I took it out, and also take out the spindles and clean them so that they rotate well on the shaft. I don't think there is a problem with the motor or other control electronics.
@@retrodeck1956 thank you I appreciate your response... what about the spring that seems unwound on the right side either the take up or supply reel? on one you can see it is very tightly wound like it is supposed to be, and on the other it looks like it has unraveled....
If you mean what you see in the video at 12.40, there are two springs on the shaft, repair or replace them if they don't work well, because they prevent smooth rotation.
@@retrodeck1956 yep the one near the tip, the end that goes into the cassette reel
I am trying to adjust the azimuth on this deck, I chose the screw according to the service manual and it's doing nothing. Did you need to adjust your azimuth by any chance on this deck?
Although I did not adjust the head on this device, I did look at the service manual. Since this head is similar to reel to reel machines it will be a bit more difficult to adjust. A mirror cassette is required first. With this, you can set the bases according to the service manual. Then it is worth stating azimuth.
@@retrodeck1956 Thanks. If you ever do set the azimuth, it appears it's screw "d" you adjust, and not "e" as it states. You'll just spin a nut and adjust nothing at all.
Replaced all belts but rewind is very sluggish at best,i believe I'll try to locate a large tire for the rew.hub. Also the auto stop doesn't nor has it ever worked. Any idea on that would be appreciated at your leisure.
Thanks Randy
Hi. You can see the drive in this video, you can only solve it by repairing the idlers and belts. However, the automatic shutdown can be due to many things. Check the plunger. This disconnects the mechanism. Check the voltages on the power supply board. The plunger works with 32 volts. On this panel you will find several diodes, check them as well. Here you will find a fuse resistor marked FR1. Replace this, it is most likely the fault.
@@retrodeck1956 Thank you kind sir for replying so quickly. My dumbass put the wrong rew/ff belt on as in putting the old one back on,I got them mixed up with a Pioneer ct-f1000's belt kit I'm working on that just happened to be too close. Anyway enough of my brain degenerative moments. I had no clue Fr1 was a fuse,so after I just read your post I checked it and got 90ohms darn the luck. The solenoid and plunger function well when temporarily as in split second shorting the ground terminal to the solenoid body or chassis gnd. D8 ,c13,c22 tr7 and 4 test good out of circuit. Thinking about looking at tr8 and tr6 tomorrow, as for now old butt is about to hit the bed after working on lawnmower then mowing and it is after midnight in my sleepy little town. Again thanks so much for taking the time to respond to your viewers!
Kind Regards Randy Brown
@@RandyWBrown If the transistors are fine and the voltages are good, then only the solenoid switch can be checked. If I looked correctly, the signal is sw902. I hope the device was repaired. I have also been mowing the lawn for two days. But now it will be rest. Good luck to you. T Zoli
@@retrodeck1956 Hi Mr.Zoli and hope you're resting well on this fine Sunday afternoon. One quick question and I'll stop bothering you, I'm getting correct voltage everywhere on the ps board which as you mentioned earlier to check along with the reed switch. I get 34v on the collector of tr8 that goes directly to the reed switch when unit is not playing, just on. When play or ff/rew is pressed and counter is rotating, the voltage is all over the place from 0 to 32v and everywhere in between for milli seconds, shouldn't that be a stable voltage and if so I guess a new reed switch is in order.
Thanks and enjoy the rest of your day.
Kind Regards Randy
do you have a place that you order parts from?
What do you think? Unfortunately, there are not many spare parts for these devices, you can order a maximum of belts on ebay or aliexpess.
Thank you For video. Like it.
Where corecting speed motor this deck?
Hello. There is a small hole at the back of the motor, you can adjust the speed there with a small screwdriver.
@@retrodeck1956 thank you, I thought so..
I noticed that it tightens a little when recording, maybe the small belt no good.
@@audioholmes My experience is that you rarely need to adjust the motor speed for these devices. But if you set it up, you would need an oscilloscope and a signal generator. Most of the problems are caused by belt or pinch roller faults.
Hola qe precio tiene una akai asi
Typically, eBay prices are between $150 and $300.