Ham Radio - Repair of a Kenwood TS 440sat
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2016
- I was gifted this 440s that had the "Dreaded Dots" problem. It took almost 10 hours of work, but it's now running perfectly and has taken the spot as my main rig in the shack. I ramble a bit and it's a long vid, but I try to cover what needed to be done for this repair.
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Thanks very much for this. Other videos I've seen had you taking all the VCO components off the board first. I think I'll try this first before doing that deep dive. 73' de W1MM
Kevin, thank you very much for your time producing this informational video! And now comment to Kenwood, the use of Sonygoop, years ago the long term effects possibly could be excused, BUT only marginally, now there is just NO excuse for the poor wave soldering resulting in way too MANY faults. Kenwood, shame on you!
I will say one thing, the circuit design is top notch. Great receiver, excellent TX performance and audio too.
I was feeling very nostalgic for my 440sat that I gave away in 2005. After seeing all the issues you had I'm over it :)
I am so impressed. I am new to ham radio after a close friend, an active ham, passed away and left me his gear. The transceiver is a Kenwood 440. The only issue I *think* I have is the S meter just doesn’t move in response to received signals. Haven’t seen any dots, all the bands seem stable (as though I know what I’m talking about). It does have a little of the button-push issue I’ve heard about. I haven’t transmitted on it (hoping to test for the license next week; damn COVID) so I can’t speak to any possible problems there. I built a 20-meter dipole and have thoroughly enjoyed listening! Really enjoyed the video, as well as the one on the CW filter addition. Just wish I knew what you’re talking about!! Excellent and much appreciated.
Parallel lives Kevin. Grew up north side Indianapolis, licensed at 14, lapsed, back in with Extra class. SKCC, TS-440SAT, exact same antique key, but NO DOTS! You can banished them for both of us. Love this radio. Hope to see you on 40m, 73s and thanks for the video. WB0WHD
That's one radio I keep getting, it gets lost in the shuffle so I sell it then find a good deal on another one, run it and remember how much I like it and say I'll never get rid of it that time. I'm on my third or fourth one now and this one I will truly not let go of.
Hi Keven. Great video. my old 440 suffered with dry joints on the microprocessor boards at the front end.
Old video... just now saw it. My old TS440sat finally bit the dust a couple days ago after many-a-year of service. Output dropped to maybe 5-watts, except that sometimes it has full output on AM. Oddly, the SWR meter function always shows full scale regardless of which antenna/dummy load is present, and sometimes the auto-tuner just rattles on forever without ever finding resonance. Don't know whether to attempt to fix her, or just keep it hooked up to a wire as the best general coverage shortwave receiver I've ever had. Good job on fixing yours - I'd heard about the glue terror before.
I'd go through it and make sure all the screws that hold the PC boards down are tight. Each of those points is an electrical ground connection. Sometimes they loosen up the grounds get intermittent, and things behave oddly.
Nice job, Kevin! The TS440 is quite a workhorse of a radio and does very well with digital modes and CAT control.
Looking forward to getting back on HF again. Great video keep up the good work.
I had the fun of working on one of these radios myself. I spent the better part of a week cleaning the gunk out of it and resoldering boards. Never was I so glad to get a project off my bench!
FYI: 90% IPA softens the Sonybond goop a fair bit, making it slightly easier to remove.
The 440 is a fine radio. I purchased one new back when they were new and did eventually need to send it to Kenwood where they "removed some goop" from some of the components. I guess that means they did what you did (?). I still have the radio. It is in my daughter's closet up in WA along with a power supply. I use it when I visit her from time to time. I replaced the 440 as my main rig with a used 570, and I greatly enjoy the improved computer interface with the digital modes and computerized logging. On the other hand, I miss the narrow filter and the ability to "move it around" the waterfall when using sound card generated rtty. Cannot seem to duplicate that behavior with the 570. But the 570 is better on CW. All of life is a trade-off! I understand that many of the replacement parts for the 570 are made from unobtanium, so I will have to face that problem some day in the future.
Congratulations on your 440. It should serve you well, now that you have taken care of the glue problem. 73 de NT5A
The chips for the computer interface on the 440 are still available, and the best part is they interface directly with a modern 5v tolerant USB/RS232 adaptor. The only issue with installing them is getting to the circuit board behind the front faceplate. IIRC, you have to remove the IF board entirely to be able to get the front off.
Yep, I just had to make the same repair. Took about 10 hours to remove a few parts at a time and scrape the glue out of the PLL board and RF board, then resolder all of the bad joints. I added the IC10 kit while I had it open. I used dental picks which helped a lot. Now I need to add 800 ohms to R27 on the Final board to get the fan to come on at a decent temperature for higher duty-cycle digital modes.
I just scored a near mint 2001 unit with all original packaging (incl the outer shipping box) and original owner's receipt. Can't wait to set it up.
I used one of these in 86. It's a nice radio.
You answered my question re the IC-745. I owned both of these radios (inherited the 440SAT from my dad's estate when he passed away in '92) and loved them both. Not a big AM fan, so liked the 745 better.
Your video is a big help for those who come across these rigs on eBay or a swap meet. From your narrative, it would seem that the "free to a good home" aspect of the radio was offset by the effort to remove the glue.
Not disparaging anything, just saying paying about $400 and THEN spending 40 hours or so digging out glue might be a deal breaker.
Key up the great work.
72/73
de Bill, k6whp
dit dit
When these work, they are fabulous little transceivers, and if it has the autotuner, and all the optional filters they are super nice, for their age. Merry Christmas, & 73s, KI7AQJ
I WISH it had the optional filters. I love my 300Hz CW filter in my FT-817. The antenna tuner works perfectly though.
Enjoyed the video. My Kenwood is a TS 680 still going strong, including 6 meter. I also have an IC 745 with the Pi exx static memory board installed. Except for some drifting until she warms up, she purrs along. It's built like a tank. I might never part with it. N7TYE
I enjoy the education. Good audio, clear video. For close up shots, take a digital camera, pop off the lens, turn the lens backwards onto the lens mount. Move the entire camera up and down until you see it focus. An inexpensive close up lens.
Lee Fuller How do you turn a lens backwards? What lens mount? At this point your comment seems like random stream of consciouness advice that is so unclear it's absolutely unhelpful.
I have cleaned the glue out of both locations but I’m getting a transmit/receive issue. Sometimes it will tx and not rx. Sometimes it will rx and not tx.
Throughout the radio, the PC boards are held in place with screws. Usually those are also ground points for the PC boards. You could have a loose screw somewhere and thus an intermittent ground. It might be worth taking the time to go through the whole radio and make sure that every screw is good and snug.
I enjoyed the video. congrats on the repair job and 'new' rig! 73 wb2smk
I've had the same problem with the same radio a couple of times where I had the dots on all bands. Each time it happened, it wasn't very warm outside but very humid. So I had the windows open and was enjoying not sending buttloads of $$ to the electric company. But when the humidity in the shack hit 60%, I got the dots problem. It was only 74 degrees in the shack, so I closed the windows, cranked up the the AC and set it to 72 to get it to kick on and when the humidity dropped down below 60%, the radio worked properly. The second time it happened, it was during a contest (HORRORS). So not only did I work on getting the humidity back down, but I also ran a hair dryer through the vents to help dry it out quicker and the radio responded favorably. I had the radio for only a couple of months, so I mentioned it to the Elmer I bought it from. So he took a look at it (no charge) and found that there was no current coming through the glue (a low humidity/good hair day), but found a couple of the PLO's were out of adjustment. He explained the length of time it would take to get the glue out. Since this is currently my only HF rig, I elected to let it ride and watch the humidity level in the shack.
In the mean time, I'm keeping my eyes open for another radio with the dots problem and hopefully pick it up at a fairly good price. I'll then piddle around with the glue removal on it on bad propagation days and use my current radio on good propagation days. Hopefully I can score one with the YK 88S already installed. I know, I don't ask for much, do I?
Probably nobody will read this but I had 2 Amana Radar ranges (microwave ovens) out at the cabin which is high humidity all winter. It would take several days after spring power up for the displays to start working. Don't know if they had Sony glue. Here in dry AB I have a '440 which is slowly dotting out. Glue pickers unite!
Curious, could you take braided desoldering cable, heat it, press it into the glue, pull cable away, snip to new section and rinse and repeat???
I had a 440sat years (decade+) ago. It was a good radio.
Still is! :-)
I have one of these radios. It does have front buttons that don't work. Yikes!! Well I also wonder if the glue and broken solders are also an issue. I really need to go thru this radio and see what might be going on. cleaning and a justing it.
Nice, I have a 450 SAT as well. I know what to look for now if I experience this failure.
Hi Kev, the 440 was a sort of pinnacle for Kenwood and I got mine in 85, repaired the vco glue in 89 and now it has a few different quirks. AGC is only fast and others report distorted tx audio.
I had found the wave soldering on mine to be very thin and many of the solder pads had small cracks around the component pins, needing re-flowing. Also, by this age, the electrolytic caps are getting quite old and many may be starting to develop a high ESR which could harm the audio quality in places. They can be testing in-circuit with an ESR meter. It might need re-capping.
Mine had weak audio. Sony Bond problems!?!?!? NO, not yet. Mine had some bad caps in the audio chain out. It's a fabulous radio now, and it will tune 80 meters with my 40 meter antenna, which is really nice. Sony Bond is hydroscopic, but so far I am not having any Sony Bond problems, yet. I just got a 690, and a 450AT. No HF transmit with the 690, and none on HF or 50 meters, so I doubt BOTH sets of finals would go south. Someone was probably trying to do RTTY or PSK through the mic jack, with a PC using FL Digi or Digipan and cooked the mic preamp chip. ($10) My TS440 was not quite a gift. Paying $200 is not a gift. I get 100-102 watts out, and the audio is back, and it works. I inherited a 1999 Blazer ZR4 custom LT from my father. Lots of stuff stopped working, like the traction control, transfer case control, computerized climate control, engine control, emissions control modules, and windshield wiper control modules. I reflowed all the solder joints and everything worked again, except the windshield wiper board. I have clean some red epoxy goo off of it, because the Dorman replacement board is an absolute piece of garbage. I may grab some boards from junk yard Blazers. Bad solder joints were all over that truck's electronics, and they just find their way into everything.The Dorman aftermarket stuff is so horrible it's worth reflowing everything and trying that, because it usually works.
Using eucalyptus oil will soften the glue and make it easier to clean out. Be sure to use 100% eucalyptus oil.
brilliant,,,,,,,thanks
I have that one, and it is sick. I am not a repair person but asking at the local club meeting, maybe someone can do it. We will talk about it another day.
My 440S was a Jahnke Electronics refurb, so all that Sonybond gunk was removed. Recently, it had been having issues with the "dots" on all bands even with that refurb. I adjusted that L20 to 5 volts and so far the dots haven't returned....
Well the dots/blank display returned-I removed IC 52 from it's socket and cleaned the IC's pins as well as the socket (I know the real fix is to de-solder the socket and put the IC in directly to the board) So far so good.....
I have frequency readout when i turn the VFO, after i stop turning o get dots on the display after a second or two. i guess it's time to start picking glue !
Yep, that's exactly the symptom. Make sure to go through the VCO adjustments in the service manual after the glue is removed. And I think I recall that they list 14.999 MHz for the adjustment on 20 meters, but it really needs to be 14.499 Mhz.
Really enjoyed the video Kelvin, I also have ts-440, does your internal SWR can show the actual SWR? My ts 440 after auto tuning always show the value of Swr 1: 1, but when I check using external SWR is still at 1: 3, dou you have this problem?
The radio is long gone. But as I recall, it was accurate.
My radio the good was cleaned out before but after few years having it it started sounding warbly on SSB 160,75,40m with lil warbling onhigherbands takesabout 10 minutes to warm up.I also caught the dots and vfo tunning Ithas lost occssilation but once warmed up works good.
You need to go through and adjust the VCO's. They're probably way off.
Kevin Loughin:
Radio was alinged and glue cleaned out around vco and two caps but may be starting to re conduct again it has been set up in a basement cement floor old time stone foundation last 3 months this is below ground. And I run a dehumidifier and fan every night down there to but I'll check the vco's alingment then.
I have a Op manual, service manual should be online . thanks
If I remember, the 20 meter VCO tuning should be done at 14.499 instead of 14.999, or something like that. Search around, there were a couple of blog articles about that error in the service manual.
Is there a place that shows test points for rf module? Cleaned up goop and resoldered, now it has other issues. Maybe leaky diodes or caps.
One day I want to fix my 440, it was my first HF radio. Great video thanks!
As I recall, the service manual had illustrations that showed the test points on all the boards.
It's out there somewhere. I think I found it with a google search for TS-440 service manual.
Hard to believe but that radio is selling for right at $500, and you got yours FREE........man...
Hello. Saludos desde Argentina atte anibal muy buen video
Excellent video, thank you! I have two TS-440SATs one with DOTS and other OK so far. Love this rig! I've put off repairing long enough, not looking forward to digging out the glue. I heard there was some kind of solvent that softens the glue and it crumbles out easier. I believe you just started to excavate the VCOs, right? Is there a place that repairs this issue, figuring someone has to have (by now) figured out an easier method and we can send? KA3QPO
Hi Kevin and awesome job on all of your videos! I am about to test for my general upgrade and recently acquired a 440S. The AM selector button does not light up green when depressed and no output is heard from the internal speaker. All other modes work as expected. Any ideas on where to start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks! Brandon KG5LQM
The micro-controller is going to have lines coming out of it to control the switching for each mode. Dig into the schematic and find that signal for the AM mode and start following it. I bet thee's a driver transistor of some type that takes that signal and drives a bunch of other transistors to switch things around. At least start with the micro and see if the signal is there.
I'll be sure to let you know the results. Thank you for the help!
Hey colleague, need your help with ts-430 - my radio's frequency is drifting on the reception. Any advice?
I have the same radio and have recently noticed the dots issue. Whenever I go to check it and if it is the glue issue, what was the heat source/setting you used to remove the bonding material. I would also like to ask you if something like hot glue would be a suitable replacement of it I will just be removing that in a couple of years time. Thanks for the great video!
Heat didn't work and I couldn't find any known good solvent. I used a dental pick, a big magnifying lens and a LOT of patience. I just picked it out a bit at a time. It was most tedious between the legs of the small components.
I didn't replace it. It's original intent was to prevent microphonics in high vibration environments like using the radio mobile. If it's just going to sit on a desk, you don't have to put anything in there.
Thank you for following up!
Hello...when you gona working on a torque from the big knop from the vfo? Beause my vfo knop turning in a square and no more in a circle .there is nowbody who have recorder a video from that problem ...thx and sorry for my englisch . by the way - i have a kenwood ts 440s ....thanks and greets
I have the same problem with a ts 690s de garth zs5gmw
I have the 440SAT version and have an issue where I have to adjust the IF shift down in LSB to make the audio sound the same as when I'm in USB. Any thoughts?
I've always hear a little bit of a difference in the sound between USB and LSB on every radio I've owned. LSB seems to have a bit more emphasis on bass. But it's not a big difference.
If you're having to move the IF shift more than a few degrees, there may be an adjustment somewhere in the detector circuitry that makes a difference. I'd have to study the schematic to be sure.
Can you tell me which resistor to connect to on the pll board for volt test
It's been awhile. The service manual shows which resistor, I think I remember it being at the edge of the board.
Kevin, what method did you use to heat the glue, I have the same radio and problem, not sure of using a heat gun in amongst those little parts, great video very educational, Thankyou.
VE7URL Julian.
Hello Julian. I gave up on heat. It just didn't soften the glue enough and I was also worried about the components. I made a really small hooked tool and just took the time to pick away at the glue until I had it removed. A dental pick might also work.
Thanks Kevin, I see mine has been done before, years ago, but not too well, will persevere with a couple of dental picks, cheaper than buying a new radio, though a KW 590SG may be in the future, thanks for the reply 73
Hello everyone is there anyone knows the cause of ALC and SWR on TS 440 does not work
Kevin I have a question on your Arduino for digital modes. I have built the circuit and when I pulled your code into my editor it is saying there are errors. Do you happen to have another source of the Arduino coding I could get my hands on. I, like you don't want to spend the money on a commercial product and really the building circuits and antennas is my favorite part of the hobby. I just suck at programming but am trying to learn. LoL any help would be hugely appreciated my friend. I am W9BLU by the way. Thanks in advance for any help with the dunno box project.
What are the errors? It's probably a simple syntax issue, an extra character at the top or bottom when you copied the code off the blog page.
You're pasting into the arduino IDE, right?
I bought a 440 from a ham in Ontario a few months ago. I have audio but the display does not come on at all. I don’t even get the dots! Could the brown glue cause a “no display” situation as well?
Probably not. It's most likely the display itself, or the power supply that powers it. I think it has a high voltage supply. I don't have the radio anymore so I can't tell. Just guessing.
@@loughkb I was fortunate enough to get it fixed a few days ago. I took the lid off, it was super clean inside. I disconnected all of the connectors & cleaned them with Deoxit. I determined that a slightly corroded connector close to the display was the culprit. Thankfully everything is good now 👍
I dont understand how some 440s have a tuning knob with no hole in it and some do..is there a reason for this..and how is the desert treating you.
I don't think Kenwood shipped any with a hole. Some people might have replaced the knob. I 3D printed a fitting for mine with the hole.
I like the desert. If I'd come out here earlier in life, I'd probably have stayed.
hello sorry I wanted to ask you I have a ts 440s which when I press the Enter Up and Down keys emits an annoying beep of considerable intensity. I ask you it will be possible to remove it? I had another 440 and made no beeps. Thanks and sorry again.
Check the service manual. There's a series of diodes on one of the boards that selects options. One of them is a button beep, I think. You just cut that diode to eliminate the beep. (If my memory is correct.)
hi kevin i also have a ts440s i am getting a problem after a while of using the radio i am losing power when i key up the needle hardly moves but when i try and turn up the power with the CAR knob my power supply is buzzing like crazy as its trying to draw 35 amps when usually on 100 watts it draws around 20 amps max,when i turn it off for 10 mins or so it starts working fine again.Any idea what the problem could be? cheers
+Craig Connell hi Craig, pull the filter board and check for cold solder joints, especially on the relays. Does it do it only on a few bands? I had that and it was one of the switching relays.
+Craig Connell vcos unlocking.
think its fixed put new solder on the dry joints on the relay board and no more losing power thanks for the info kevin
Would you work on another ts-440/s ?
Nope. I can't do that kind of work any more.
There is one for sale in a pawn shop. $250. What would it cost to have all the work done if it needed it. It didn't have a mic with it. Is it worth it.
I know I’m a little late but to pay someone to do it it seems to cost around $450
Enjoyed the video, Kevin. In the shack I have the receiver version of this rig, the R5000, which I picked up cheaply from a hamfest last year. The rig was beaten about a fair bit, so I have been slowly fiddling around getting it cleaned up. Also put a new INRAD filer in it, too. I have a few YT videos on it. The "Dots" come along occasionally. So if it becomes a big problem, I might very well go and do some digging of the goop in the future. I've bookmarked this video for future reference. Also subscribed to your channel. Cheers mate! Rob VK3BVW medxr.blogspot.com.au
Thanks for the information I purchase this rig new when it was 1st introduced I never experience a problem with it over the years, I just purchased my 1st Power Amplifier to use and when I connect the transceiver remote jack thru the MFJ-AM704 buffer I lost transmit/receive, and the 7 dots will show on the display I thought it was the glue issue, Thinking it over this happened when I added the Ameritron-811,I discovered I had not grounded the ground lug on the transceiver, I am not a 2way radio repair tech,but I made my living in the electronic industry so I am thinking the Linear Amp without a return common ground was causing some overload in the transceiver I am glad I decided to invest in the AM-704 or It could have been some serious damaged. The transceiver has been working ok for two days.
Sony bond, sold by Sony but never actually used by them : D
The Japanese are known for thinking long term. Could have been a plot to reduce the reliability of their competitors... Maybe.
Hey Kevin, can I send you my 440s for repair. It has the same dot issue from 28.300 through 28.499. All other frequencies are good. I'm going to checkout the glue issue.
I have stopped working on other peoples gear. My health is in decline and I don't trust my hands enough now. You can remove the glue, it just take a lot of time and patience. I used a dental pick and thin needle nose pliers. I couldn't find anything that would soften the glue. You really need a magnifying lens and patience to pick the glue out from between the component leads without damaging anything.
@@loughkb thanks for the reply. I am going to give it a try.
Don't go this way.
Thanks for info just got a 440 giving me places to look 73 ke8zwv