Great video, Dylan. Some solid tips/tricks there. I always love hearing/seeing how other people do things. There are always a million ways to do something and everyone’s mileage may vary but it’s great to see what’s worked for you. I always use the “you can do it however you want, but this is what I found to work best for me” mentality. I couldn’t agree more on the stock fender liner and brake stuff. Some people really over complicate simple things like that. Big thing is securing whatever it is you decide to use. I personally use weld nuts for everything and you won’t find a plastic clip or through bolt on my cars. I haven’t seen the need to spend a few hours and $100 in material to make my own fender liners when the Chinese re pops for $8 each have worked thus far. I enjoy watching these videos and glad you take the time to do it because I can’t seem to find the motivation lol.
Great video. I'd be interested in a closer look at the fabrication of specific solutions. Eg "the scraper mounts on this bit of OEM suspension", "I've added these extra under-body mounting points in this manner" etc.
@@yowie0889 that's a good idea. I am in the middle of making new rear wheel scrapers and will be posting a video when done. I have an older video showing my first scraper designs that are certainly serviceable as well
Opinion on doing an offset steel rubber coated plate around the bottom/side of aluminum calipers? Or just in general to reduce amount of debree that contacts the caliper.
Once again, really good practical tips, Dylan. Well done! Re the underbody protection: I used HDPE plastic and glued it to sections of aluminium which I attached to the underside using rivnuts through the floor. It adds more weight but it keeps the plastic flat and you can bend the leading edge up to protect the front foot wells. I also allowed the plastic to protrude out the sides a few inches to protect the sills (you call them rocker covers?).
Any thoughts on using lock nuts for exhaust bolts? Not nylock of course, but there are other solutions out there that are metal only. I assume safety wire would be too much of a pain for removals
@KevanB I use lock washers and that seems to be most effective. Serrated face nuts come off almost immediately. Even lock washers with regular nuts will come loose unpredictably with the extreme flex/conditions. Rocks and such erode and smash bolt heads, threads, etc so I skip safety wire in this case and simply replace or retighten the hardware on a regular cadence at rallies and during reprep
Great video, Dylan. Some solid tips/tricks there. I always love hearing/seeing how other people do things. There are always a million ways to do something and everyone’s mileage may vary but it’s great to see what’s worked for you. I always use the “you can do it however you want, but this is what I found to work best for me” mentality.
I couldn’t agree more on the stock fender liner and brake stuff. Some people really over complicate simple things like that. Big thing is securing whatever it is you decide to use. I personally use weld nuts for everything and you won’t find a plastic clip or through bolt on my cars. I haven’t seen the need to spend a few hours and $100 in material to make my own fender liners when the Chinese re pops for $8 each have worked thus far. I enjoy watching these videos and glad you take the time to do it because I can’t seem to find the motivation lol.
Another great video. Much appreciated 😊
Thanks for this! I’m likely picking up a GC8 rally build in a couple of weeks, so this is invaluable stuff. Cheers
Should have @ Benson for the hangers everywhere. Meanwhile I only run the rear ones haha.
Great video. I'd be interested in a closer look at the fabrication of specific solutions. Eg "the scraper mounts on this bit of OEM suspension", "I've added these extra under-body mounting points in this manner" etc.
@@yowie0889 that's a good idea. I am in the middle of making new rear wheel scrapers and will be posting a video when done. I have an older video showing my first scraper designs that are certainly serviceable as well
Really helpful thanks!!
Opinion on doing an offset steel rubber coated plate around the bottom/side of aluminum calipers? Or just in general to reduce amount of debree that contacts the caliper.
Once again, really good practical tips, Dylan. Well done!
Re the underbody protection: I used HDPE plastic and glued it to sections of aluminium which I attached to the underside using rivnuts through the floor. It adds more weight but it keeps the plastic flat and you can bend the leading edge up to protect the front foot wells. I also allowed the plastic to protrude out the sides a few inches to protect the sills (you call them rocker covers?).
Neat idea Bob! How do you glue it? Do you find that it separates over time?
@@DylanGondyke I can't remember the glue I used, maybe a 3M spray on product, but it hasn't separated in over five years of abuse.
Any thoughts on using lock nuts for exhaust bolts? Not nylock of course, but there are other solutions out there that are metal only. I assume safety wire would be too much of a pain for removals
@KevanB I use lock washers and that seems to be most effective. Serrated face nuts come off almost immediately. Even lock washers with regular nuts will come loose unpredictably with the extreme flex/conditions. Rocks and such erode and smash bolt heads, threads, etc so I skip safety wire in this case and simply replace or retighten the hardware on a regular cadence at rallies and during reprep
What exhaust system is that? I have a 97 Outback that's an rebuilt ej25D. I love the factory lifted items and that it accepts my wrx parts.
This is a Tsudo header and j pipe, with everything behind the J pipe a custom job utilizing the factory mounts