Electrical Inspector here...because power originates in your solar shed, that is your service panel. The one in the barn is a sub panel. Neutral and grounding bars need to be bonded in the solar shed, and that panel needs a grounding conductor and service grounding rod or plate. The sub panel in the barn requires separation of Neutral and ground buss bars. Because they are separate buildings a grounding conductor and rod or plate are required at the barn as well. Good video and explanation. Cheers
I appreciate it. I have installed a few of these system and am a part of numerous solar install forums including close consultation with a local solar company. All of them suggest and recommend exactly the opposite of your recommendation when it comes to this particular type of off-grid setup or separately derived systems. They specifically warn against multiple ground rod applications. Can you explain further your point of view and refer me to the code sections on this? This system has been up for a while and works flawlessly. Can you also explain any issues with doing it the way I did? Thanks.
I believe you should have a wire from the negative of the battery bank to that ground bus bar in your subpanel, this would serve as your DC system bonding jumper. That battery bank is more than 50 Volts, if the positive conductor from the bank touches the case of one of the inverter, you need to have an effective path to clear the fault. This would be from case, to the ground bus bar (through the ac out ground wire), back to the battery.
Thx a lot for all your efforts and tips. However one company and one company only made the solar powerful, affordable and so easy to install, a 15 yo can do it. It's none other than Signature solar. I don't know why I'll get any other system than the EG4 18K-PV plus 2 Powerpro WallMount and sleep peacefully knowing I got one of the best in the market. These are also close enough (Solark 15K & Schneider XW pro) with EG4 18K-PV I don't need a charge controller, no combiner box, no disconnect. (I'll get a solar isolator and might get a T-class fuse) that's it folks.
I love how you explain all your different solar installs. Still trying to decide for whole house 200 amp panel do I want the EG 18k or SolArk. Leaning EG because the new chargeverter levels the playing field for me. As always, GREAT JOB!
Thx a lot for all your efforts. With hybrid systems like Solark 15K or EG4 18K-PV, no one will be buying charge controllers. They eliminated many devices, components and wiring. Sorry, for victron and the likes.
Not true. There are many different types of systems for different applications. Having separate charge controllers is critical for certain types of systems. I explained that all in the first video in this series. Victron is one of the top selling systems in the world.
Looking good. Couple of questions/observations. Don't understand why you included the additional bus bars between the batteries and the Lynx distributor when the Lynx is basically a fused bus bar? And I believe it's best practice to turn on the AC side of the Multiplus 2 before the DC as that pre-charges the caps for you. Also I think the Victron manual mentions using ferrules on the AC connection side. Good work leaving the looped conductor on the AC side - definitely necessary and often overlooked.
It appears that you are, at least for the moment, sold on Victron. I've just completed an Epever to Victron upgrade on our solar powered shed, but initial performance results, and ease of use increases doesn't appear, so far, worth the additional cost. We're now moving on to a 3.6kw install solely to charge our Ford Lightning, and run the garage mini-split, and we're hyper focused on ROI, and breakeven point with 10kw of lifepo4 batteries. I had considered a split phase with Victron, but at the moment, from a cost conscious standpoint, I think we'll be going with a hybrid inverter from MPP. Idle usage could play into that ultimate choice, as most of the hybrids run over 100 watts idle consumption.
7 months later and I'm sure you already made the right decision for you, but to me the idle consumption issue is huge. It really adds up to a significant factor for ROI, but I'm sure you crunched the numbers and took it all into account. The other thing I'd say about Victron is I'd venture you'd get higher reliability and better support and service from them if you do run into issues.
What gauge are the DC wires going to the inverter? The instructions for the Multiplus II say to use a 400A fuse, and 2x AWG 1/0 between 0 and 5m or 2x AWG 2/0 between 5 and 10m. I don't understand .... why 2x cables per terminal? I also see some folks using 4/0, which, isn't rated for 400A. Confused, can someone clarify?
Sorry, I questioned it before watching the entire video. I just set up my eg4. Running cable now. I did set up some 100watt panels on top of the chicken coup but only charge each battery at 3 amps. Solar is producing 200 volts. Too much shade. Going to set up my 455 watt panels now in full sun. Fingers crossed
I believe that the only case grounds that need to be made are for the mppt and sub panel. The inverters are grounded through the AC out ground conductor. This is only for a stand alone off grid application though. If you are in an RV/boat it would be different from my understanding.
@@CountryLivingExperience the Victron schematic diagram shows all chassis from the inverter to the MPPT cases are tied together. Also, I connected the battery rack to the case ground. It is all for safety of course, and I’m still struggling to determine which way to go..
Happy thanksgiving, I’m completely off grid and would love to know your solution for not using the AC input. I’ve got the 230 48v 10,000w multiplus ii. Can’t even get it to turn on to connect to computer to turn on “ignore AC input”
Thank you for this video! When connecting ferrules, I followed your advice and sliced the plastic shroudand made sure the wire makes contact with the ferrule metal tip.im still not getting the Victron to function though. Any thoughts? TIA!
@@CountryLivingExperience correct, if the wire strands dont fit in the Victron terminals, and ive crimped the ferrules to where they make contact on the wires and act as an extension to fit in the terminal holes, it should work that way?
Our PV lines come into our separate SmartSolar MPPT charge controller, not the Multiplus inverter. Since I cannot physically see what you are trying to connect, it is hard for me to give advice.
@@CountryLivingExperience I was able to get it connected! I manipulated the ferrule on the wires to fit into the Victron controller. Thanks for your video and replies I appreciate it :)
At 7mn05s ..you mention that you need a fuse to connect the positive bus bar the negative... i'm pretty sure you meant something else. connecting the pos and the neg would be a short circuit...
are those 3000kva better choice than one 5000 ? because in maths 2x 48 3000 cost as much as a GX 5000 70/50 !! did you test their surge capability ? if i remember it says 5500 for several seconds.. if yes then they are quite good!!!!
I love Victron equipment but don’t like the messy wiring that comes with the installation. I would have to figure out a way to run all that in cable run boxes.
I got a bit confused around the 7 minute mark when you said the fuse connects "our positive to our negative" and "that's what bridges between the two bus bars". The fuse is inline on the positive line. If it connected positive and negative, that would be a short circuit, surely?
One thing that I don't understand is why would the batteries rush the current to the new inverters if using a Victron DC disconnect between them at off position, turning the inverter on to charger mode, and then when in bulk mode, turn on the DC disconnect(connecting the battery bank). The inverter has a bigger potential on the DC side than at the battery side. Why would it rush into the inverter's capacitors if they have already been charged by the inverter's internal charger to a higher voltage. No-one has been able to explain this to me yet. I am about to connect my own soon. I do have a external 60V charger as well but I just don't understand why this would be an issue with the Multiplus II.
Just wondering why you had to use two multi plus? I’ve got a growwatt 3000 off grid for my cabin and don’t really like it. It shuts my batteries down all the time and then I have to drive three hours to reset them. I’ve been looking at getting a Victron system but man they cost a lot lol 😂 just curious. I got the system from SS but not the 5 48v batteries. SS tried to help but everything they’ve told me to do just makes it worse. Not really their fault but I’m frustrated
I have 240 volt loads in my barn and the Multiplus is only single phase 120v. I need two to make 240v split phase. You can get one EG4 6000xp and that will solve your issues. They are nowhere near as expensive as Victron.
I have 6 panels. The voltage open circuit on each is 49.31 so 295.86 total for warm weather if wired in series. Mine are wired in series parallel so I have two strings combined to one keeping the voltage down.
@@michalknapek5697 when you wire in series voltage adds up between the panels but their amps stay the same. When in parallel, the voltage stays the same and the amps are added. Making different combinations, will result in different volts and amps and can be configured to anything you need. Mine are wired in two series strings of 3 panels each and then paralleled together.
Just a FYI, I don't believe that is the right procedure to use the EG4 battery resistors. The manual says to power then on, hit the reset button, then hook up the inverter.
Maybe you can help me I'm looking for someone that can help me install my small solar power system that I have on my box van I need someone in Washington that's familiar with a viltron energy solar charge controller and distributors going into a 48 volt inverter it has 5 solar panels on the roof each are 370 watt for as total of 1850 watts all together. So do you know anyone in Washington state that can accurately hookup this system???
@@CountryLivingExperience I would not because I already know those answers. Prowse will make a video on any product that works out of the box if he can put an affiliate link in the description. You just seem to be a little more real so I was curious why the continuous change to the systems? Did the previous systems not meet your needs or were there issues with the systems that made you want to make the switch. I have seen others switch equipment for various reasons, I was just curious what yours were. I did not mean to offend.
No worries, no offense taken. This system is for my barn, well pump, shop, jet pump, and chicken coop. Those were on a separate transformer away from the house. I may upgrade my house systems some day when I can afford to. That does not mean that I dislike my EG4 or Growatt systems.
I do think Will has a lot to offer. He is "real" to me. Watching his videos helped me with knowledge to build my systems. He tests a lot of stuff and always tells people if it is junk or not. I have no problem with him making a living doing that.
@@CountryLivingExperience I have seen many people build some pretty unsafe systems or come in with expectations that are so far off and 9 out of 10 times when asked comment that they got their understanding from him. I see a big difference between someone using a product to live and someone who has a garage space that allows them to play with the latest solar generator or inverter/battery combination to be able to run a heat gun or space heater on the workbench for an hour. What is more realistic, that or someone that has been able to take a grid tied building from 60kWh daily usage to 3kWh daily usage with no permits required.
![Lethal Company Music Video 🎵 "Follow The Orders" [VERSION A]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QeooZB4Z7RA/mqdefault.jpg)
Electrical Inspector here...because power originates in your solar shed, that is your service panel. The one in the barn is a sub panel. Neutral and grounding bars need to be bonded in the solar shed, and that panel needs a grounding conductor and service grounding rod or plate. The sub panel in the barn requires separation of Neutral and ground buss bars. Because they are separate buildings a grounding conductor and rod or plate are required at the barn as well.
Good video and explanation. Cheers
I appreciate it. I have installed a few of these system and am a part of numerous solar install forums including close consultation with a local solar company. All of them suggest and recommend exactly the opposite of your recommendation when it comes to this particular type of off-grid setup or separately derived systems. They specifically warn against multiple ground rod applications. Can you explain further your point of view and refer me to the code sections on this? This system has been up for a while and works flawlessly. Can you also explain any issues with doing it the way I did?
Thanks.
You are fantastic at explaining and keeping it simple
Thank you. I appreciate that.
Install is looking great! Great job!
Thanks Adam
I believe you should have a wire from the negative of the battery bank to that ground bus bar in your subpanel, this would serve as your DC system bonding jumper. That battery bank is more than 50 Volts, if the positive conductor from the bank touches the case of one of the inverter, you need to have an effective path to clear the fault. This would be from case, to the ground bus bar (through the ac out ground wire), back to the battery.
Thx a lot for all your efforts and tips. However one company and one company only made the solar powerful, affordable and so easy to install, a 15 yo can do it. It's none other than Signature solar. I don't know why I'll get any other system than the EG4 18K-PV plus 2 Powerpro WallMount and sleep peacefully knowing I got one of the best in the market. These are also close enough (Solark 15K & Schneider XW pro) with EG4 18K-PV I don't need a charge controller, no combiner box, no disconnect. (I'll get a solar isolator and might get a T-class fuse) that's it folks.
Sig Solar is great and so is EG4. I do business with them. I got this Victron equipment from them. Victron is in a different category than EG4.
I love how you explain all your different solar installs. Still trying to decide for whole house 200 amp panel do I want the EG 18k or SolArk. Leaning EG because the new chargeverter levels the playing field for me. As always, GREAT JOB!
Thank you! Let me know what you go with. I have heard great things about both.
Thx a lot for all your efforts. With hybrid systems like Solark 15K or EG4 18K-PV, no one will be buying charge controllers. They eliminated many devices, components and wiring. Sorry, for victron and the likes.
Not true. There are many different types of systems for different applications. Having separate charge controllers is critical for certain types of systems. I explained that all in the first video in this series. Victron is one of the top selling systems in the world.
Good morning
Morning
Looking good. Couple of questions/observations. Don't understand why you included the additional bus bars between the batteries and the Lynx distributor when the Lynx is basically a fused bus bar? And I believe it's best practice to turn on the AC side of the Multiplus 2 before the DC as that pre-charges the caps for you. Also I think the Victron manual mentions using ferrules on the AC connection side. Good work leaving the looped conductor on the AC side - definitely necessary and often overlooked.
It appears that you are, at least for the moment, sold on Victron. I've just completed an Epever to Victron upgrade on our solar powered shed, but initial performance results, and ease of use increases doesn't appear, so far, worth the additional cost. We're now moving on to a 3.6kw install solely to charge our Ford Lightning, and run the garage mini-split, and we're hyper focused on ROI, and breakeven point with 10kw of lifepo4 batteries. I had considered a split phase with Victron, but at the moment, from a cost conscious standpoint, I think we'll be going with a hybrid inverter from MPP. Idle usage could play into that ultimate choice, as most of the hybrids run over 100 watts idle consumption.
We will see how it works out for me. I have heard nothing but the best about Victron.
7 months later and I'm sure you already made the right decision for you, but to me the idle consumption issue is huge. It really adds up to a significant factor for ROI, but I'm sure you crunched the numbers and took it all into account. The other thing I'd say about Victron is I'd venture you'd get higher reliability and better support and service from them if you do run into issues.
You should also be able to program the inverters remotelly without the Mk3 cable, via the VRM portal. Anyway good job.
Thanks
Awesome info!
Blessings ❤❤❤
Great video sir!
Thanks Peyton
What gauge are the DC wires going to the inverter? The instructions for the Multiplus II say to use a 400A fuse, and 2x AWG 1/0 between 0 and 5m or 2x AWG 2/0 between 5 and 10m. I don't understand .... why 2x cables per terminal? I also see some folks using 4/0, which, isn't rated for 400A. Confused, can someone clarify?
👍👍👍👍👍
Maybe some gloves and safety glasses? Adding jumpers to hot PV wires bare handed?
They aren’t hot.
what size wire and flex conduit size are you using? Is that seal tight? What connector coupling?? It looks great. Thanks
1/2" flex conduit with 4awg wire.
Did you change over from EG4 to victron?
No. The EG4 are powering house. These are for my barn and well pumps.
Sorry, I questioned it before watching the entire video. I just set up my eg4. Running cable now. I did set up some 100watt panels on top of the chicken coup but only charge each battery at 3 amps. Solar is producing 200 volts. Too much shade. Going to set up my 455 watt panels now in full sun. Fingers crossed
@@timcastle6996 No worries Tim.
Glad you are moving forward with your system. Let me know if you have any questions.
Hope to see explain how to bond the cases of all the equipment properly. I’ve had discussions and would like to know your opinion..
I believe that the only case grounds that need to be made are for the mppt and sub panel. The inverters are grounded through the AC out ground conductor. This is only for a stand alone off grid application though. If you are in an RV/boat it would be different from my understanding.
@@CountryLivingExperience the Victron schematic diagram shows all chassis from the inverter to the MPPT cases are tied together. Also, I connected the battery rack to the case ground. It is all for safety of course, and I’m still struggling to determine which way to go..
Like I said, I believe Victron instructions default to RV/Boat applications. For off-grid building use, you do not want to end up with a ground loop.
Happy thanksgiving, I’m completely off grid and would love to know your solution for not using the AC input. I’ve got the 230 48v 10,000w multiplus ii. Can’t even get it to turn on to connect to computer to turn on “ignore AC input”
Not sure how your system is setup so it is hard for me to give any advice. Mine is powered off the batteries and panels.
Thank you for this video! When connecting ferrules, I followed your advice and sliced the plastic shroudand made sure the wire makes contact with the ferrule metal tip.im still not getting the Victron to function though. Any thoughts? TIA!
How is it not functioning? Not getting DC voltage from the panels?
@@CountryLivingExperience correct, if the wire strands dont fit in the Victron terminals, and ive crimped the ferrules to where they make contact on the wires and act as an extension to fit in the terminal holes, it should work that way?
Our PV lines come into our separate SmartSolar MPPT charge controller, not the Multiplus inverter.
Since I cannot physically see what you are trying to connect, it is hard for me to give advice.
@@CountryLivingExperience I was able to get it connected! I manipulated the ferrule on the wires to fit into the Victron controller. Thanks for your video and replies I appreciate it :)
At 7mn05s ..you mention that you need a fuse to connect the positive bus bar the negative... i'm pretty sure you meant something else. connecting the pos and the neg would be a short circuit...
I misspoke.
are those 3000kva better choice than one 5000 ? because in maths 2x 48 3000 cost as much as a GX 5000 70/50 !! did you test their surge capability ? if i remember it says 5500 for several seconds.. if yes then they are quite good!!!!
I love Victron equipment but don’t like the messy wiring that comes with the installation. I would have to figure out a way to run all that in cable run boxes.
It’s good equipment. Only the comms wire mess bothers me.
I got a bit confused around the 7 minute mark when you said the fuse connects "our positive to our negative" and "that's what bridges between the two bus bars". The fuse is inline on the positive line. If it connected positive and negative, that would be a short circuit, surely?
yes, sorry. I misspoke in the video. It is positive to positive.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thank you for responding. I'm learning and so your clarification is very helpful. All the best.
I thought the Growatt inverters were supposed to be reused in the shed.
I had the opportunity to test these Victron inverters. I still have the Growatts too.
One thing that I don't understand is why would the batteries rush the current to the new inverters if using a Victron DC disconnect between them at off position, turning the inverter on to charger mode, and then when in bulk mode, turn on the DC disconnect(connecting the battery bank). The inverter has a bigger potential on the DC side than at the battery side. Why would it rush into the inverter's capacitors if they have already been charged by the inverter's internal charger to a higher voltage. No-one has been able to explain this to me yet. I am about to connect my own soon. I do have a external 60V charger as well but I just don't understand why this would be an issue with the Multiplus II.
Just wondering why you had to use two multi plus? I’ve got a growwatt 3000 off grid for my cabin and don’t really like it. It shuts my batteries down all the time and then I have to drive three hours to reset them. I’ve been looking at getting a Victron system but man they cost a lot lol 😂 just curious. I got the system from SS but not the 5 48v batteries. SS tried to help but everything they’ve told me to do just makes it worse. Not really their fault but I’m frustrated
I have 240 volt loads in my barn and the Multiplus is only single phase 120v. I need two to make 240v split phase.
You can get one EG4 6000xp and that will solve your issues. They are nowhere near as expensive as Victron.
@@CountryLivingExperience I ended up going with the eg4. So far so good. I can turn everything on in my cabin and it doesn’t miss a beat
@@brokenarrowoutdoors2467 I have EG4 in my house.
what is link for Battery breaker box?
Thank for your detailed video and parts list
You're welcome. I think this is the one you are looking for: Distribution protection box: amzn.to/3P2t7Bq
How much Wp panels you have for this 250 Voc MPPT? I guess no more than 5 panel of 400 watts with 48 V. Otherwise VoC would be around 370 V or?
I have 6 panels. The voltage open circuit on each is 49.31 so 295.86 total for warm weather if wired in series. Mine are wired in series parallel so I have two strings combined to one keeping the voltage down.
@@CountryLivingExperience Ah! It make sense then! Sooo if they are in parallel it means that 48x2 because of two strings, right?
@@michalknapek5697 when you wire in series voltage adds up between the panels but their amps stay the same. When in parallel, the voltage stays the same and the amps are added. Making different combinations, will result in different volts and amps and can be configured to anything you need. Mine are wired in two series strings of 3 panels each and then paralleled together.
I have the same ghost gate opener screw driver..
Nice. Handy little tool for sure.
Just a FYI, I don't believe that is the right procedure to use the EG4 battery resistors. The manual says to power then on, hit the reset button, then hook up the inverter.
Maybe you can help me I'm looking for someone that can help me install my small solar power system that I have on my box van I need someone in Washington that's familiar with a viltron energy solar charge controller and distributors going into a 48 volt inverter it has 5 solar panels on the roof each are 370 watt for as total of 1850 watts all together. So do you know anyone in Washington state that can accurately hookup this system???
CHARGE CONTROLLER
Victron always supports mission impossible 😅
Lol
So, this is the third system in just over a year. Is this just marketing or are you still trying to find a system to fit your needs?
Thank you for the interesting question. I am curious if you would ask Will Prowse or David Poz or any of the other solar channels the same question?
@@CountryLivingExperience I would not because I already know those answers. Prowse will make a video on any product that works out of the box if he can put an affiliate link in the description. You just seem to be a little more real so I was curious why the continuous change to the systems? Did the previous systems not meet your needs or were there issues with the systems that made you want to make the switch. I have seen others switch equipment for various reasons, I was just curious what yours were. I did not mean to offend.
No worries, no offense taken.
This system is for my barn, well pump, shop, jet pump, and chicken coop. Those were on a separate transformer away from the house. I may upgrade my house systems some day when I can afford to. That does not mean that I dislike my EG4 or Growatt systems.
I do think Will has a lot to offer. He is "real" to me. Watching his videos helped me with knowledge to build my systems. He tests a lot of stuff and always tells people if it is junk or not. I have no problem with him making a living doing that.
@@CountryLivingExperience I have seen many people build some pretty unsafe systems or come in with expectations that are so far off and 9 out of 10 times when asked comment that they got their understanding from him. I see a big difference between someone using a product to live and someone who has a garage space that allows them to play with the latest solar generator or inverter/battery combination to be able to run a heat gun or space heater on the workbench for an hour. What is more realistic, that or someone that has been able to take a grid tied building from 60kWh daily usage to 3kWh daily usage with no permits required.
OMG, wires running everywhere, many not in conduit. No offense but my OCD would be making me twitch.
With all do respect
Wouldn't it be easier to call it a charge controller ? Instead of MPPT