Он говорит на английском потому за англоязычнуя аудиторию RUclips платит 20 раз если не больще дороже ему за просмотры. Так что мужик зарабатывает достаточно за счет английского
@@keycimag3316 Я тоже работаю, но это требует времени. Спасибо что признали что ваш английский тоже не совершенен. А то из-за комментариев я думал что все русские имеют идеальное произношение :)
@@Skyentific На самом деле очень отталкивает это произношение. Индусов и русских. Опять же мой английским никакой, но категорически не могу смотреть видео с плохим английским. Чувствую, что у меня становится такми же.
@@Skyentific да, акцент железный, но Вы не смущайтесь от комментов, Вы говорите за то правильнее, чем многие "нэйтив спикеры". Контент очень интересный! (подписался) @Keyci Mag, не поддержу, мне даже как-то прикольно слушать. Но как говорится, на вкус и на цвет...
Skyentific Большой молодец что не стесняетесь! Для работы это не имеет никакого значения, тем более для инженерной, во всяком случае в Силиконовой Долине - здесь половина говорит с акцентом. А акцента будет со временем все меньше и меньше :) Русско-говорящим ещё не так тяжело - азиатам вообще мука сплошная. Спасибо за видео!!
Can use the slewing bearing assemble for a small solar panel tracker on a parked electric vehicle. Of course with more gear reduction and more electronics.
I'm a big fan of 3-D printing but the parts that are going into this project completely outclass the plastic. For me it would have to be an aluminum body and steel helical gears to justify the other parts.
Hi, I love your projects, you inspired me to study robotics engineering in university. I hope you will publish all the info to make this project for people like me who love your content. Thanks for sharing the video Nicolas from Italy
Thank you Nicolas from Italy. I plan to publish all the files as soon as I will be happy with the design. I only have one joint, I still need to design 6 other joints :) I think robotics engineering is the best choice in university.
I considered using brushless motor for robotic arm application before. But it seems to me that position control is hard to achieve with these types of motor as their rpm quickly ramps up with increased voltage. These kind of motor’s temperature also rises quickly after running for a while. Really curious how you would address these problems. Keep up the great work!
I have more experience with brushed motors. However, I know brushless motors have a Kv constant, which means the angular velocity is proportional to the input voltage. Because of this, given enough reduction and a high resolution encoder, it should be sufficient to use a simple PID controller for position control.
You need hall effect sensors to do precise positioning. I'm working on a custom firmware for standard ESC's to do servo-style control. Currently writing about it in this thread (post #44) www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3221699-Attempt%28s%29-at-a-servo-flap-ornithopter/page3
Beautiful design! One question though: Are you sure that that motor can produce 1 Nm of torque? Is that peak or continuous, or perhaps stall? At what current? Having worked on things like this before, you need much larger motors to consistently produce that level of torque. Looking forward to seeing future videos!
And by larger I mean with a larger r gap, such as the robodrive ILM and other large r gap motor designs that you mention in your other videos. You seem to be pretty aware of the low ratio high rgap field of work in robotics, but there are certainly challenges to maxing out the torque on these motors consistently. Looking forward to seeing what you do! Just curious, what are the specifications of the robot you want to build? Your other videos where you’ve shared things like that are wonderful, as there is little content on how to build machines that have and meet actual requirements. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for such great videos and the ability to download the cad files with pattern membership. May I suggest you include affiliate links to the components in the description so as to help your viewers and earn a little money for your channel as well.
I have several 3D printers. But recently I mainly use Prusa i3 MK3. And PETG filament from Prusament. My goal is to concentrate on the Robotics, thus I decided to take a very reliable printer with a reliable filament. And so far it works perfectly.
Great application for those bearings. they're not suitable for higher RPMs in rapid movement applications, but allow for very compact, robust assembly. neat stuff!
Nice engineering, printed parts and video. It really shows how you can take an idea and make it using a computers and 3d printing or whatever form of manufacturing at home.
Hi, why brushless motors and not cheap servos in stepper sizes? I just bought 3 JMC iHSV57-30-18-36 180W integrated servos(with driver) for my CNC mill. I paid 240€ including shipping. They also have 100W and a 150W version. The come in Nema 23 size with the driver hocked up tot he chassis. You can easily control them just like real steppers. But they have massive torque and you won't lose and steps as they have an encoder as well.
Hi. I never used them. But for this particular application they are too big and too heavy. I plan to use this joint for Robot Arm, so the weight should be as low as possible.
Thank you for your comment. First to save the space, and to make the actuator more compact. Second, only the elasticity of the big belt will influence on the encoder readings. But finally, the tests will show if this was a good idea or a bad idea :)
@@Skyentific Thanks for responding, I'm really looking forward to seeing you power up the actuator. The encoder should still work well for motor control, but it is rare to see an encoder used for FOC placed somewhere other than the motor shaft so I was curious about your choice. As long as the first belt does not skip I think it will prove to be a good idea!
R J It is beneficial to place the encoder closer to the output as any backlash in the transmission will result in an inaccurate encoder reading. Putting the encoder near the output reduces error due to backlash. This does cause you to lose effective resolution though. In most cases, reducing backlash is more important imo.
@@BluBird1598 In this case (with the ODrive) the encoder is being used to measure rotor position and power the stator accordingly (FOC control). Placing the rotor encoder on the output of the gearbox can give a better reading of joint angle but it could be at the cost of having an inaccurate rotor angle reading, leading to inefficient or ineffective control of the motor. In this case the joint has low elasticity/backlash, and the belt linking the encoder to the motor should not introduce any problems. I believe it is common to have more than one encoder in actuators with inconsistency between rotor and joint angle. For example in a series elastic actuator two encoders are required: one for motor control, and one for the output. In systems that use DC motors the motor encoder is not necessary and you should only need an output encoder.
Thank you for not hesitating! :) Most of my belts and pulleys I buy at sdp-si.com. It is a little bit expensive, and it takes some time for delivery, but they have a lot of different belts to choose. Some my belts I bought from 3Dware.ch, they are fast (at least for delivery in Switzerland) but they have very limited choice. If you know a good place where to buy belts and pulleys, please tell me, I will appreciate a lot.
Hi @skyentific I love you videos and your builds, what I'm missing for this joint is a detailed list of the parts you are using and the STL's to print one, are these available on your Patreon ?
Thank you! Yes, on my Patreon for 10USD, you can find the STL for all my builds, and the list of the essential components (bearings, motors, belts). I did not put the bolts and nuts in this list. Usually you can easily understand which bolt and nut to use from drawing. I use metric bolts.
@@jeffhan1239 yes but a Stepper is limited by steps even micro steps, always steps, what if you want a location in between step? With this setup and the gear reduction he can make the brushless motor spin 1000 times and only move the other part 0.01 mm, that is insane resolution because he is dividing 0.01mm into 1000 parts .!!!! Definitely not achievable with a stepper even in micro steps. Obviously that is not what he did in the video but im saying its possible with this set up... is it practical? maybe, maybe not, im not sure where that level of precision would be needed, but cool none the less
@@EdwinFairchild Stepper motors can also have reduction gears. And, I think, when a very high reduction ratio is used, backlash between gears will be another problem to be solved.
Thanks for these video series, they are really inspiring. Every printed part looks quite clean and accurate, may I ask you which 3D printer are you using for them and which filament type should be used?
А если без ремней сделать зубья на внутренней поверхности внутреннего кольца и "подключить" мотор с мелкой шестеренкой уже к ним? Тогда моторный узел уйдет в центр конструкции и она станет "соосней" что-ли... Может конечно это не выгодно из-за потери в передаточном отношении.
Я хочу оставить отверстия как можно большее в центре, мне это потом понадобиться. Плюс, если делать на шестеренках тогда будет люфт, именно поэтому я использовал ремни (это специальные безлюфтовые ремни).
The encoder will give relative motion, sure. imagine this as a robot axis. When the robot turns on, how does it know where it is, or find where it is? I don't see a limit switch... BTW love the videos, great quality and beautiful prints.
I notice that in your previous arm you also did not home it. I would like very much to see you add homing as I feel it is essential for repeatable robots and a valuable lesson for newcomers to robotics. Thank you!
This is mostly to keep the overall size reasonably compact. If it''ll be only two pulley system with this ratio one of two will hold right: 1. Small pulley should be smaller - that'll cause high stress on it and bell slippage. 2. Big pulley should be bigger - and make overall size huge and clunky. Two pulley system here looks like a good compromise.
Подписался) очень интересные ролики. Я, как и многие другие были бы очень рады переводу ваших роликов хотя бы субтитрами, а то автоматический перевод просто смех наводит. Благодарю за интересные ролики, пусть и больше половины не понимаю от незнания языка
Will the brushless motors allow your arm to move with greater speed than the stepper motor based one? If you had to hypothesize, how long do you think it would take this joint in a full arm to rotate 90 degrees at full speed?
Awesome video, keep up the great work! I am working on a mechanism of similar design. Originally I used the same mxl belts that you showed in this video but I was having a lot of trouble getting the tension right with a simple idler, especially in the interface with a 3d printed pulley under high torque. I suggest you make the switch to XL belts (teeth 1/5" apart, the same size as the timing belt in most automotive coolant pumps iirc) if you end up running into the same issue, the difference was night and day for me. Also you may want to try using some type of lead screw mechanism so that you can really put some force on that idler since its probably going to be difficult to get enough tension by hand and in your current configuration will likely creep in its slot causing a loss of tension over time. I am using automotive tapered roller bearings for my joints (probably overkill) and I found that they need a significant preload in order to function properly so I have a dedicated flange mechanism that pulls the two sides of the bearing together which works but adds unnecessary weight. Like others have said I am interested to see where you got that bearing, it looks to be a good solution.
great video. how do you ensure your 3d printed parts will be accurate? when i 3d print, i often have to make many iterations to get a proper fit. your parts seem to fit the first time. :)
@@Skyentific thank you. Nice looking prints. Can i ask what printer you use? Do you use acetone or any other post post-processing to get them so smooth?
Anything is only as strong as it's weakest part. I realize this is a prototype, so I hope you plan to assemble the real thing with splined or keyed shafts. Anything else would be too weak to take the torque. After that, assuming you can hold a decent sized arm with that motor, the belts will be the limiting factor for how much 'strength' it has, and I have my doubts about those belts. Have you considered a screw-type drive gear instead?
Is that 3d printed parts enough to endure that? I recommend you to use carbon based filament. Now i am using ONYX and fiber reinforced filament made by Markforged.
U building some incredible ., awsum and so so cool robots .. can u plz make a video on how u started with robotics , becz I would love to know how u got into this field.
Great explanation. I`m new to the robotics field. I`m designing a 6-axis robot with harmonic drives. I`m planning to implement the robot as a hand guiding for position teaching. Since harmonic drives has high torque, is this possible to do with stepper motors? If someone has an idea about these things, please leave a comment.
Please, do not hesitate to leave your comments!
what 3d printer do you use ?
Do you reply to emails?
Please add links to the products you used (like the bearings).
I would love if you could release your files too!
Вери стронг рашн аксент. Бат зе видео из грэйт. Кип дуинг!
@@deadlydragon72 www.aliexpress.com/item/CRB7013UUT1-CRBC7013UUT1-Crossed-Roller-Bearings-70x100x13mm-IKO-High-precision-Multi-directional-load-Robotic-Bearings/32337740952.html
Thanks!
Putting this video in my sources for my Engineering presentation project at school. Tysm!
Congrats, you should to make a hubless wheel with a brushless motor and gears, i hope you make it.
good work!! warning with the temperature, motor can be hot in less than a minute and plastic melt down!
Very good point!
Добрый день ваш акцент застовляет меня предположить что вы с России:))
Ваша грамотность не оставляет сомнений, что вы из россии! :(
@@mykhailoshulika2280
Скорее всего с Украины или Белоруссии
ага, какая то пародия на английский. Ору с него))
Он говорит на английском потому за англоязычнуя аудиторию RUclips платит 20 раз если не больще дороже ему за просмотры. Так что мужик зарабатывает достаточно за счет английского
@@vicitacal11 мне тоже доставляет.
This is a fascinating and brilliant concept for a robot arm!
Этот чарующий английский)))) Не со зла, просто забавно))). А за видео лайк жЫрный.
май инглиш тоже не бест, но я работаю абов ит.
@@keycimag3316 Я тоже работаю, но это требует времени. Спасибо что признали что ваш английский тоже не совершенен. А то из-за комментариев я думал что все русские имеют идеальное произношение :)
@@Skyentific
На самом деле очень отталкивает это произношение. Индусов и русских.
Опять же мой английским никакой, но категорически не могу смотреть видео с плохим английским.
Чувствую, что у меня становится такми же.
@@Skyentific да, акцент железный, но Вы не смущайтесь от комментов, Вы говорите за то правильнее, чем многие "нэйтив спикеры". Контент очень интересный! (подписался)
@Keyci Mag, не поддержу, мне даже как-то прикольно слушать. Но как говорится, на вкус и на цвет...
Skyentific Большой молодец что не стесняетесь! Для работы это не имеет никакого значения, тем более для инженерной, во всяком случае в Силиконовой Долине - здесь половина говорит с акцентом. А акцента будет со временем все меньше и меньше :) Русско-говорящим ещё не так тяжело - азиатам вообще мука сплошная. Спасибо за видео!!
Can use the slewing bearing assemble for a small solar panel tracker on a parked electric vehicle. Of course with more gear reduction and more electronics.
OMG!!! That is awesome!! I learnt some new things.
Thank you so much for making this video in English! :D
Great video!! Looking forward to this series.
One question:
Will you be making this project open source?
I think yes. For the moment I have only one joint out of seven :).
@@Skyentific Great work here, can't wait for the full series and open source!
Awesome !! This is really interesting ! Please continue (hurry up!) with the build of the complete arm !
Thank you! I will try. :)
FANTASTIC.....AND BEAUTIFUL...KEEP UP........
Thank you!
I would love too see this scaled down for smaller robots
I'm a big fan of 3-D printing but the parts that are going into this project completely outclass the plastic. For me it would have to be an aluminum body and steel helical gears to justify the other parts.
Hi, I love your projects, you inspired me to study robotics engineering in university. I hope you will publish all the info to make this project for people like me who love your content.
Thanks for sharing the video
Nicolas from Italy
Thank you Nicolas from Italy. I plan to publish all the files as soon as I will be happy with the design. I only have one joint, I still need to design 6 other joints :) I think robotics engineering is the best choice in university.
It would be nice to have a list of the parts and also a link to a supplier.
great video, how about some links to build list and any downloadable file links for the print? that be very helpful
О, вы из Англии!
Из Швейцарии.
That looks pretty cool!
I considered using brushless motor for robotic arm application before. But it seems to me that position control is hard to achieve with these types of motor as their rpm quickly ramps up with increased voltage. These kind of motor’s temperature also rises quickly after running for a while. Really curious how you would address these problems. Keep up the great work!
I have more experience with brushed motors. However, I know brushless motors have a Kv constant, which means the angular velocity is proportional to the input voltage. Because of this, given enough reduction and a high resolution encoder, it should be sufficient to use a simple PID controller for position control.
You need hall effect sensors to do precise positioning. I'm working on a custom firmware for standard ESC's to do servo-style control. Currently writing about it in this thread (post #44)
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3221699-Attempt%28s%29-at-a-servo-flap-ornithopter/page3
Beautiful design! One question though: Are you sure that that motor can produce 1 Nm of torque? Is that peak or continuous, or perhaps stall? At what current? Having worked on things like this before, you need much larger motors to consistently produce that level of torque. Looking forward to seeing future videos!
And by larger I mean with a larger r gap, such as the robodrive ILM and other large r gap motor designs that you mention in your other videos. You seem to be pretty aware of the low ratio high rgap field of work in robotics, but there are certainly challenges to maxing out the torque on these motors consistently. Looking forward to seeing what you do! Just curious, what are the specifications of the robot you want to build? Your other videos where you’ve shared things like that are wonderful, as there is little content on how to build machines that have and meet actual requirements. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for such great videos and the ability to download the cad files with pattern membership. May I suggest you include affiliate links to the components in the description so as to help your viewers and earn a little money for your channel as well.
Great modular design. Using the O drive on the second shaft is an excellent idea and use of space!
Looking forward to seeing this project develop!
Great design
looks awesome. I like that you left room for a bigger pully on the first reduction stage for more uses.
Can you make a video what kind of 3d printer you use, and the plastic you use to create the printed material?
I have several 3D printers. But recently I mainly use Prusa i3 MK3. And PETG filament from Prusament. My goal is to concentrate on the Robotics, thus I decided to take a very reliable printer with a reliable filament. And so far it works perfectly.
@@Skyentific thank you for the answering
Great work! Could I know what encoder you use?
Where did you get the bearing from? What's its specs etc?
Also curious.
Same here.
Same question here!
Search for "cross roller bearing". Widely available.
www.aliexpress.com/item/CRB7013UUT1-CRBC7013UUT1-Crossed-Roller-Bearings-70x100x13mm-IKO-High-precision-Multi-directional-load-Robotic-Bearings/32337740952.html
Very nice design
It would be interesting if you provide links to te compones you are using in your builds
Вхэри ис фаилэ фор 3 дэ принтер. Олсоу Ай вонт ту ноу, вхэри а ю ту бай сач бэлтс? тсенк ю фор ёр видео. Сия лэйтер гудбай!
I can't help but think that motor would tear the plastic apart if running at full load.
Try cutting the frame out of 7075 or 2024 aluminum instead!
Excellent work man! Thank you for share your knowledge!
Thank you for your comment!
@@Skyentific grat channel! i think my chines replica needs a lot of fine tune till i goth similar part quality
Great application for those bearings. they're not suitable for higher RPMs in rapid movement applications, but allow for very compact, robust assembly. neat stuff!
Thank you!
STL files would be nice, also where to get the non printable hardware
Just donated a small amount for the good content you post. Good luck in getting more subscribers!
Thank you very much for your comment and for your donation!
Where can I get this construction set or a model of it for 3D printer?
О, наши люди. Это радует.
Please tell me the specifications of the BLDC motor used in this project :>
Nice engineering, printed parts and video. It really shows how you can take an idea and make it using a computers and 3d printing or whatever form of manufacturing at home.
good video. id like to see a powerful roboarm
Hi, why brushless motors and not cheap servos in stepper sizes? I just bought 3 JMC iHSV57-30-18-36 180W integrated servos(with driver) for my CNC mill. I paid 240€ including shipping. They also have 100W and a 150W version. The come in Nema 23 size with the driver hocked up tot he chassis. You can easily control them just like real steppers. But they have massive torque and you won't lose and steps as they have an encoder as well.
Hi. I never used them. But for this particular application they are too big and too heavy. I plan to use this joint for Robot Arm, so the weight should be as low as possible.
wow
nice
Thank you!
brilliant video thanks
what do you think of harmonic gearing ?
why an idler on one belt and not the other ?
99guspuppet good question
Hi,
Very nice build! Why did you place the encoder on the intermediate shaft instead of on the motor shaft?
Thanks.
Thank you for your comment. First to save the space, and to make the actuator more compact. Second, only the elasticity of the big belt will influence on the encoder readings. But finally, the tests will show if this was a good idea or a bad idea :)
@@Skyentific Thanks for responding, I'm really looking forward to seeing you power up the actuator. The encoder should still work well for motor control, but it is rare to see an encoder used for FOC placed somewhere other than the motor shaft so I was curious about your choice. As long as the first belt does not skip I think it will prove to be a good idea!
R J It is beneficial to place the encoder closer to the output as any backlash in the transmission will result in an inaccurate encoder reading. Putting the encoder near the output reduces error due to backlash. This does cause you to lose effective resolution though. In most cases, reducing backlash is more important imo.
@@BluBird1598 In this case (with the ODrive) the encoder is being used to measure rotor position and power the stator accordingly (FOC control). Placing the rotor encoder on the output of the gearbox can give a better reading of joint angle but it could be at the cost of having an inaccurate rotor angle reading, leading to inefficient or ineffective control of the motor. In this case the joint has low elasticity/backlash, and the belt linking the encoder to the motor should not introduce any problems.
I believe it is common to have more than one encoder in actuators with inconsistency between rotor and joint angle. For example in a series elastic actuator two encoders are required: one for motor control, and one for the output.
In systems that use DC motors the motor encoder is not necessary and you should only need an output encoder.
I’m excited to see how you hand the PWM and encoder, also how did you decide on what gear ratio to use? Love your work!
now you need the planetary gear set
dtec30 , I have a planetary gearbox suitable for such project. I would try it in one of my next video.
Nice video!
Really nice design. Would love to see a cad walkthough
Great Video...................
I did not hesitate. Also, where do you get your belts and pulleys?
Thank you for not hesitating! :) Most of my belts and pulleys I buy at sdp-si.com. It is a little bit expensive, and it takes some time for delivery, but they have a lot of different belts to choose.
Some my belts I bought from 3Dware.ch, they are fast (at least for delivery in Switzerland) but they have very limited choice.
If you know a good place where to buy belts and pulleys, please tell me, I will appreciate a lot.
Hi @skyentific I love you videos and your builds, what I'm missing for this joint is a detailed list of the parts you are using and the STL's to print one, are these available on your Patreon ?
Thank you! Yes, on my Patreon for 10USD, you can find the STL for all my builds, and the list of the essential components (bearings, motors, belts). I did not put the bolts and nuts in this list. Usually you can easily understand which bolt and nut to use from drawing. I use metric bolts.
@@Skyentific Thank you !
Can't wait for metal 3d printing stuff like this would be amazing
what would the resolution of this be, I assume it has more precise movement than a stepper motor?
I think stepper motors also can be precise with using encoders
@@jeffhan1239 yes but a Stepper is limited by steps even micro steps, always steps, what if you want a location in between step? With this setup and the gear reduction he can make the brushless motor spin 1000 times and only move the other part 0.01 mm, that is insane resolution because he is dividing 0.01mm into 1000 parts .!!!! Definitely not achievable with a stepper even in micro steps. Obviously that is not what he did in the video but im saying its possible with this set up... is it practical? maybe, maybe not, im not sure where that level of precision would be needed, but cool none the less
@@EdwinFairchild Stepper motors can also have reduction gears. And, I think, when a very high reduction ratio is used, backlash between gears will be another problem to be solved.
@@jeffhan1239 yeah thats is true about backlash , win some lose some I suppose. Lol
Thanks for these video series, they are really inspiring. Every printed part looks quite clean and accurate, may I ask you which 3D printer are you using for them and which filament type should be used?
А если без ремней сделать зубья на внутренней поверхности внутреннего кольца и "подключить" мотор с мелкой шестеренкой уже к ним? Тогда моторный узел уйдет в центр конструкции и она станет "соосней" что-ли... Может конечно это не выгодно из-за потери в передаточном отношении.
Я хочу оставить отверстия как можно большее в центре, мне это потом понадобиться. Плюс, если делать на шестеренках тогда будет люфт, именно поэтому я использовал ремни (это специальные безлюфтовые ремни).
Very awesome ! Thanks for sharing this build !
Can you please show a list of bought parts and where to buy them?^^
May I ask you how could you drive the actuator? By ESC or some custom driver?
Если бы ты разговаривал на русском то тебя даже англоязычная аудитория понимала бы. The bearing))) А так like.
По статистике ютюба у меня 90% англоязычных...
I see how you measure relative motion. How do you home the joint?
I don't home it. I don't need to home it as I have encoder with the index.
The encoder will give relative motion, sure. imagine this as a robot axis. When the robot turns on, how does it know where it is, or find where it is? I don't see a limit switch... BTW love the videos, great quality and beautiful prints.
I notice that in your previous arm you also did not home it. I would like very much to see you add homing as I feel it is essential for repeatable robots and a valuable lesson for newcomers to robotics. Thank you!
please, do tell more about the motors!
Awesome work! How much torque can this provide compare to harmonic drive.
@6:17 are you saying encoder? and what is the model number for the encoder?
would you please tell which encoder you were using?
are the parts made form abs? becuse PLA is bad when it comes to heat.
Hi. Regards from México. Which model is the bearing?
Brilliant!
Thank you!
Why did you choose to use two belts instead of one belt directly from motor to joint?
This is mostly to keep the overall size reasonably compact.
If it''ll be only two pulley system with this ratio one of two will hold right:
1. Small pulley should be smaller - that'll cause high stress on it and bell slippage.
2. Big pulley should be bigger - and make overall size huge and clunky.
Two pulley system here looks like a good compromise.
Видео супер очень нравиться, особенно цветок , вам бы комент к скейчам оставлять и скетчи . У вас есть чему поучиться. Желаю побольше подписчиков.
Спасибо большое за комментарий!
What materials did you use for your 3D Prints and what printer did you use to get the prints so nicely done? Superb Job by the way, EXTRA!!!
Thank you. I use Prusa i3 MK3. And PETG for the filament material.
отлично)
Подписался) очень интересные ролики. Я, как и многие другие были бы очень рады переводу ваших роликов хотя бы субтитрами, а то автоматический перевод просто смех наводит. Благодарю за интересные ролики, пусть и больше половины не понимаю от незнания языка
Very elegant. Thank you! Perhaps someday you might consider making a video on creating 3D printed gears in CAD (teeth, ratios, etc).
@Skyentific Why don't you make a video of 3d designing of the model you used in the video. It will be great.
Isnt the gear ratiotooo less?? Will it have enough torque with that low rpm?
I am developing another Actuator, it will have the same motor and higher gear ratio. I hope it will have higher torque.
Will the brushless motors allow your arm to move with greater speed than the stepper motor based one? If you had to hypothesize, how long do you think it would take this joint in a full arm to rotate 90 degrees at full speed?
Very interesting.
Thank you!
Adam usual well done !
Very nice! Cannot wait to see it in action.
Awesome video, keep up the great work! I am working on a mechanism of similar design. Originally I used the same mxl belts that you showed in this video but I was having a lot of trouble getting the tension right with a simple idler, especially in the interface with a 3d printed pulley under high torque. I suggest you make the switch to XL belts (teeth 1/5" apart, the same size as the timing belt in most automotive coolant pumps iirc) if you end up running into the same issue, the difference was night and day for me. Also you may want to try using some type of lead screw mechanism so that you can really put some force on that idler since its probably going to be difficult to get enough tension by hand and in your current configuration will likely creep in its slot causing a loss of tension over time. I am using automotive tapered roller bearings for my joints (probably overkill) and I found that they need a significant preload in order to function properly so I have a dedicated flange mechanism that pulls the two sides of the bearing together which works but adds unnecessary weight. Like others have said I am interested to see where you got that bearing, it looks to be a good solution.
I had no idea BLDCs are so much more efficient than steppers. You would need a huge nema 23 to get to 1 Nm.
Great work ! keep going pls,
блестящий дизайн !
Nice video! Great inspiration! Thank You!
great video. how do you ensure your 3d printed parts will be accurate? when i 3d print, i often have to make many iterations to get a proper fit. your parts seem to fit the first time. :)
I also do several iterations :)
@@Skyentific thank you. Nice looking prints. Can i ask what printer you use? Do you use acetone or any other post post-processing to get them so smooth?
bay-ding is bearing for the new folks
wonderfull idea!! I hope it works :) ... can you tell me please where you got the encoder from?
At 3:28 in the video, it appears to be www.cui.com/product/motion/rotary-encoders/incremental/modular/amt10-series
Exactly! :)
Thank you! It is AMT 102. I bought it at DigiKey.
why not using magnitec encoder from ams brand ?
very nice prints. What machine are you using?
Great question. I use Prusa i3 MK3. It works very well!
Nice! can't wait to see that thing going.
Wow man , thank you
Anything is only as strong as it's weakest part. I realize this is a prototype, so I hope you plan to assemble the real thing with splined or keyed shafts. Anything else would be too weak to take the torque. After that, assuming you can hold a decent sized arm with that motor, the belts will be the limiting factor for how much 'strength' it has, and I have my doubts about those belts. Have you considered a screw-type drive gear instead?
Is that 3d printed parts enough to endure that?
I recommend you to use carbon based filament.
Now i am using ONYX and fiber reinforced filament made by Markforged.
The carbon based filament would be great for this. But for the moment I don't have the budget for this.
It also shreds your nozzel
@Skyentific у Вас столько наработок, а есть видос по самым оптимальным решениям?
U building some incredible ., awsum and so so cool robots .. can u plz make a video on how u started with robotics , becz I would love to know how u got into this field.
Good job man ! Its so good. Can you share technical drawing?
www.patreon.com/Skyentific
Very nice! Please, wich encoder do you use in this video?
Great explanation. I`m new to the robotics field.
I`m designing a 6-axis robot with harmonic drives.
I`m planning to implement the robot as a hand guiding for position teaching.
Since harmonic drives has high torque, is this possible to do with stepper motors? If someone has an idea about these things, please leave a comment.
Can you name all things that you have used to build this actuator?
Impressive work and very clearly explained . Thank you.