My 4 month old daughter loves your videos. I was watching one night when I thought she was asleep, but turns out she was just really focused on the video. Since then any time I put your videos on she quiets down and watches. Hopefully she will keep interested and she can move up to helping me at the bench when she gets older. Your videos are great. showing the troubleshooting process and sharing your experience is more valuable than most the education I got from school. Thank you from me and my daughter and please keep releasing these great videos.
Great episode, very handy techniques and approach. Many years ago I did my C&G 224 Pt 2 (and 3), while also studying my ONC and HNC in electronics. As you can guess from formal education, we never did much in the way of fault finding without a circuit diagram - which I now appreciate *can* make it easy. Your approach is methodical, experience-based and highly successful. No diagrams required. Thanks for sharing.
I love what you are doing please keep it up. I have recently picked up this as a hobby and your method of explaining your train of thought as you approach each project is nice and very informative.
One tool I find very helpful is a spade type soldering tip. I have a few Hako dual head units that have different tips, one is 30mm wide another is 12mm wide etc, they are pricey unfortunately but they are time savers too. You can heat 2 pins or 12 pins all at the same time (I hate heat heat guns) and the component will just drop out of the board (hopefully), this works well for in-line bridge rectifiers, which I replace a lot of. I've been doing this stuff for 20+years and am always learning something from your videos. You are a good instructor.
That's how to make it look easy. You inspired me to invest in a component dca75. This work offers moves like a chess game. Test and gather data, analyze and make a move. Then try to understand why. This is far from boring. Thanks for all you valuable insight and procedures. I'm investigating in equipment because I want this to be my new hobby and I will never give up on it, regardless of all it's challenges. Being an auto mechanic with all it's challenges didn't deter me and now I have the hobby I have been looking for. Many thanks for your inspiring work.
Very nice!! Just a quick tip, if I may: low melt solder to remove those SMD components works like a treat! You don't even need the hot air after using it. Cheers! :)
@@LearnElectronicsRepair 15:17 Image is quite blurry, its not easy to see traces and what you are doing... Any possibility to change camera or something to get clear focused image? You are nearing 100K subs, I suggest you to do it :) 17:25 - There is a unsoldering tool with this blue plastic that you have, it has like a hook, you hook it then heat from another side and pull. Really good for those diodes. You bought only this one screwdriver type tool or?
Hi Richard, another good tutorial. One very good method to protect any easily meltable parts is using sel-adhesive aluminium foil (tape). Works much better than Kapton tape and is easily removable afterwards. Regards, Jerry.
Love your content been binge-watching all of your episodes I wish I was watching them in order I have just started getting into electronics repair I have been doing industrial maintenance for over 15 years I want to broaden my knowledge of the equipment I use
Hi I’m starting again as an electronics repair guy (got motivated by you super interesting video’s) and looking for a good electronic microscope. Is the one you’re using still the exact same as the one mentioned in your list? It seems yours is positioned way higher than the included arm would allow. Looking forward to your feedback. BR Sam
H-bridge (full bridge) motor driver. Usually the motor is connected between the 2 outputs which gives easy control of motor direction w/o clonky relays.
Agreed, usually, but if you look at the connector marked 'motor' on this PCB one terminal seems to go to 24V and the other terminal (marked motor negative) goes to pin 1. Hence the flyback diode between Vcc (24V?) and pin 1 of the motor driver it seems.
9:00 If I remember correctly..... Usually things I see in that package and with that green color are inductors. I run across them quite often... But I know there are also resistors and other things in that package such as glass diodes etc....
Nice one, I'm just wondering if injecting voltage on that diode would have helped identify the driver immediately in this case without having to remove all the mosfets.
Often with this sort of repair work it's like following the branches of a tree. No matter how experienced you are, with an unknown pcb/problem sometimes you go along the wrong branch and have to double back, so it takes longer to get to the correct conclusion. As long as you identify all the possible branches you will get there eventually, and yes with hindsight it usually could have been easier. That's just how it is and I always show the whole diagnostic process in my videos, warts and all 🙂
It's the same desoldering station, I just bought a replacement gun. It turns out I had damaged the other one by forcing the cleaning rod through it with a pair of pliers, which caused the metal tube in the center of the heating element to push out into the glass tube. This is why the solder was solidifying at the end of the metal tube (as it was no longer inside the element) and clogging it up. Now I have it working properly again I'll order a new heating element assembly for the original handle (about €15) and keep it as a good spare one
One way to fix chips, is to heat it up lightly. To test it, electric clocks not ticking, when heated up at the ic, it starts ticking. This method doesn’t always works, but you don’t have to replace expensive ic chips.
Good work ! must admit I was screaming test the device !!! just after you cut pin 1 I would have gone to pin 2 straight away ! especially as I know what a pig those that package can be to remove. Looking forward to part 2, will you take the board to the site as part of your repair and install it ?...cheers.
@Mr Guru They can be, and they can also be a bitch depending on ground/power planes. Cutting the legs will always do the job but sometimes you may not know 100% it is faulty. Having the right equipment also helps a lot.
Hi. Thanks for the video. It helps me a lot because I'm doing repair job too and I consider myself in the intermediate level in electronics repair. May I ask if you don't mind, how much do you charge in this repair? Is it based on percentage of new unit price which I do normally?
To be honest this can be a 'charge what you think it is worth' sort of job. So this PCB controls a turnstile (or turnstiles) at a theme park. If it is preventing the business from operating normally it can be a big headache and very costly for them. Literally they could be losing hundreds or thousands or dollars/euros/pounds whatever in lost trade. Per hour, even! To get a replacement can be costly and time consuming, and depending on the use, if this board has custom programmed firmware for the specific application, then in extreme cases it could involve an engineer flying half way across the world to plug in a new one and configure it. Or maybe the OEM no longer exists. Or they do exist but this board /turnstile is obsolete, or they don't want to replace it 😉, in which case it may be '-sharp intake of breath through the teeth- sorry but you need to replace the whole system'. Now we are in to the tens of thousands. So it does depend on the cost an availability of a replacement, which can be hard to judge, and how many other companies/engineers could fix it (locally) but I would suggest for this sort of repair, say $100-$1000. Yeah I know that's a very wide range but maybe $500 would not be too far out of the way, if you can get it done fast. Depending also on your geographic location, most likely.
Adding 60:40 lead solder to the lead free solder does pretty much the same thing as using special low melt solder as you can see. And it is also a lot cheaper 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair you should test the mechanic xw6 low melt solder which is 50% bismuth and 42% tin vs leaded solder. You can get that for like $12 for 40-50g. I'd love to see how much of a difference there is
Don’t the white plastic sockets you de-soldered the pins from the board just pull off? No need to remove the pins then and no melting with the hot air. Love the videos by the way bud.
I dont think the optics are to detect the door movement. Instead I think the optical sensor detects an plastic flag, screw or piece of metal, that is affixed to the wall, and the second optical detector might be connected to the cover of the device, at the hinge side, so a plasic pin will leave the sensor as the cover is opened. The idea is, if somebody would jimmy the whole device off the wall with a crowbar, the flag, screw or metal piece would no longer be there (as its affixed to the wall through a hole in the device box), thus the device can call home and report the tampering over rs485. Same if plastic piece on cover door leaves optical sensor, which means cover on device was removed. Thats confirmed by the reader block having a SIO connection. SIO is a alarm standard for connecting burgular alarms. The rs485 have 3 pins because the middle is shield. Its indicated by the drawing, showing the end of a antenna cable with its outer shell connected to ground.
Hi Rich , is the capacitor which was previously replaced connected to the faulty chip ? I still can’t think why they replaced it .I keep thinking that this provides a clue . Having said that , I have never seen a component treated so poorly..it looks like they took it out with a mole grip!
Hi Richard, i have a question to you :). Do PSU have influence on a GPU coil whine? Understandable if it was low quality PSU with unstable voltages etc. but i read on forums that people had corsair rm850x and after change on straight power 11 coil whine was ended... How to explain that?
I will appreciate if you can help me with resource material and guide to start my career in electronics. I am having a hard time understanding it cause lots of the resource material out in the open look abstract. Thank you
Wait until part two. Usually a PCB like this will be several hundred to several thousand euro/dollar/whatever to replace. And that is if the company who made it (I think this one is 20 years old or so) are still in existence and still produce it.
Part Two is published
ruclips.net/video/3PY8q8kwZsY/видео.html
My 4 month old daughter loves your videos. I was watching one night when I thought she was asleep, but turns out she was just really focused on the video. Since then any time I put your videos on she quiets down and watches. Hopefully she will keep interested and she can move up to helping me at the bench when she gets older.
Your videos are great. showing the troubleshooting process and sharing your experience is more valuable than most the education I got from school.
Thank you from me and my daughter and please keep releasing these great videos.
Great episode, very handy techniques and approach. Many years ago I did my C&G 224 Pt 2 (and 3), while also studying my ONC and HNC in electronics. As you can guess from formal education, we never did much in the way of fault finding without a circuit diagram - which I now appreciate *can* make it easy. Your approach is methodical, experience-based and highly successful. No diagrams required.
Thanks for sharing.
I love what you are doing please keep it up. I have recently picked up this as a hobby and your method of explaining your train of thought as you approach each project is nice and very informative.
One tool I find very helpful is a spade type soldering tip. I have a few Hako dual head units that have different tips, one is 30mm wide another is 12mm wide etc, they are pricey unfortunately but they are time savers too. You can heat 2 pins or 12 pins all at the same time (I hate heat heat guns) and the component will just drop out of the board (hopefully), this works well for in-line bridge rectifiers, which I replace a lot of. I've been doing this stuff for 20+years and am always learning something from your videos. You are a good instructor.
That's how to make it look easy. You inspired me to invest in a component dca75. This work offers moves like a chess game. Test and gather data, analyze and make a move. Then try to understand why. This is far from boring. Thanks for all you valuable insight and procedures. I'm investigating in equipment because I want this to be my new hobby and I will never give up on it, regardless of all it's challenges. Being an auto mechanic with all it's challenges didn't deter me and now I have the hobby I have been looking for. Many thanks for your inspiring work.
I've designed a similar motor controller before and your drawing of the circuit at the end seems about right.
Good analyses. Glad that electrolytic went, the bottom end, although partially-sleeved, was overhanging the out 2 pin on the H-bridge.
Very nice!! Just a quick tip, if I may: low melt solder to remove those SMD components works like a treat! You don't even need the hot air after using it. Cheers! :)
Trying to get to do more of this on the bench. Do this every day with the whole machine still attached. Cheers!
The fun starts when you don't have the whole machine or even know exactly what it is 😀
@@LearnElectronicsRepair 15:17 Image is quite blurry, its not easy to see traces and what you are doing... Any possibility to change camera or something to get clear focused image?
You are nearing 100K subs, I suggest you to do it :)
17:25 - There is a unsoldering tool with this blue plastic that you have, it has like a hook, you hook it then heat from another side and pull. Really good for those diodes. You bought only this one screwdriver type tool or?
[Looking forward to Pt2!]
Hi Richard, another good tutorial. One very good method to protect any easily meltable parts is using sel-adhesive aluminium foil (tape). Works much better than Kapton tape and is easily removable afterwards. Regards, Jerry.
Just use cooking aluminum foil. Its cheap and you got a lot of square area.
love it. great teacher. Looking forward to part 2. See you tomorrow night.
Love your content been binge-watching all of your episodes I wish I was watching them in order I have just started getting into electronics repair I have been doing industrial maintenance for over 15 years I want to broaden my knowledge of the equipment I use
Nice job finding the short Richard. Might be a waste of time replacing that part if the motor is dodgy though, as you said.
Hi
I’m starting again as an electronics repair guy (got motivated by you super interesting video’s) and looking for a good electronic microscope.
Is the one you’re using still the exact same as the one mentioned in your list?
It seems yours is positioned way higher than the included arm would allow.
Looking forward to your feedback.
BR
Sam
Thank you that was thoroughly appreciated short finding is not my strong point but enjoyed your methodical approach
H-bridge (full bridge) motor driver.
Usually the motor is connected between the 2 outputs which gives easy control of motor direction w/o clonky relays.
Agreed, usually, but if you look at the connector marked 'motor' on this PCB one terminal seems to go to 24V and the other terminal (marked motor negative) goes to pin 1. Hence the flyback diode between Vcc (24V?) and pin 1 of the motor driver it seems.
9:00
If I remember correctly.....
Usually things I see in that package and with that green color are inductors. I run across them quite often... But I know there are also resistors and other things in that package such as glass diodes etc....
Nice one, I'm just wondering if injecting voltage on that diode would have helped identify the driver immediately in this case without having to remove all the mosfets.
Often with this sort of repair work it's like following the branches of a tree. No matter how experienced you are, with an unknown pcb/problem sometimes you go along the wrong branch and have to double back, so it takes longer to get to the correct conclusion. As long as you identify all the possible branches you will get there eventually, and yes with hindsight it usually could have been easier. That's just how it is and I always show the whole diagnostic process in my videos, warts and all 🙂
I like your new desoldering tool. It seems to work a lot better than your old one.
It's the same desoldering station, I just bought a replacement gun. It turns out I had damaged the other one by forcing the cleaning rod through it with a pair of pliers, which caused the metal tube in the center of the heating element to push out into the glass tube. This is why the solder was solidifying at the end of the metal tube (as it was no longer inside the element) and clogging it up. Now I have it working properly again I'll order a new heating element assembly for the original handle (about €15) and keep it as a good spare one
One way to fix chips, is to heat it up lightly. To test it, electric clocks not ticking, when heated up at the ic, it starts ticking. This method doesn’t always works, but you don’t have to replace expensive ic chips.
Great work 👌👍
Good work ! must admit I was screaming test the device !!! just after you cut pin 1 I would have gone to pin 2 straight away ! especially as I know what a pig those that package can be to remove. Looking forward to part 2, will you take the board to the site as part of your repair and install it ?...cheers.
Well on a YT channel you also need a bit of dramatic effect 😅
@Mr Guru They can be, and they can also be a bitch depending on ground/power planes. Cutting the legs will always do the job but sometimes you may not know 100% it is faulty. Having the right equipment also helps a lot.
Hi Mr Squeak
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Nicely put.
@Mr Guru Yawn ! we all no that Mr Twat.
Hi. Thanks for the video. It helps me a lot because I'm doing repair job too and I consider myself in the intermediate level in electronics repair. May I ask if you don't mind, how much do you charge in this repair? Is it based on percentage of new unit price which I do normally?
To be honest this can be a 'charge what you think it is worth' sort of job. So this PCB controls a turnstile (or turnstiles) at a theme park. If it is preventing the business from operating normally it can be a big headache and very costly for them. Literally they could be losing hundreds or thousands or dollars/euros/pounds whatever in lost trade. Per hour, even!
To get a replacement can be costly and time consuming, and depending on the use, if this board has custom programmed firmware for the specific application, then in extreme cases it could involve an engineer flying half way across the world to plug in a new one and configure it. Or maybe the OEM no longer exists. Or they do exist but this board /turnstile is obsolete, or they don't want to replace it 😉, in which case it may be '-sharp intake of breath through the teeth- sorry but you need to replace the whole system'. Now we are in to the tens of thousands. So it does depend on the cost an availability of a replacement, which can be hard to judge, and how many other companies/engineers could fix it (locally) but I would suggest for this sort of repair, say $100-$1000. Yeah I know that's a very wide range but maybe $500 would not be too far out of the way, if you can get it done fast. Depending also on your geographic location, most likely.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair A VERY BEAUTIFUL AND EXTREMELY COURAGEOUS RESPONSE. YOU ARE INDEED A GREAT BOSS.... MORE POWER TO YOUR ELBOW.
Heya lol this is part 1 and part 2 I already saw now it's a lot momre clear what you were talking about in part 2 lol
is it just me or do I keep hearing a High frequency pulse during the video ? Great video by the way.
You could probably use low melt solder to desolder those.
Adding 60:40 lead solder to the lead free solder does pretty much the same thing as using special low melt solder as you can see. And it is also a lot cheaper 🙂
@@LearnElectronicsRepair you should test the mechanic xw6 low melt solder which is 50% bismuth and 42% tin vs leaded solder. You can get that for like $12 for 40-50g. I'd love to see how much of a difference there is
Don’t the white plastic sockets you de-soldered the pins from the board just pull off? No need to remove the pins then and no melting with the hot air. Love the videos by the way bud.
I dont think the optics are to detect the door movement. Instead I think the optical sensor detects an plastic flag, screw or piece of metal, that is affixed to the wall, and the second optical detector might be connected to the cover of the device, at the hinge side, so a plasic pin will leave the sensor as the cover is opened.
The idea is, if somebody would jimmy the whole device off the wall with a crowbar, the flag, screw or metal piece would no longer be there (as its affixed to the wall through a hole in the device box), thus the device can call home and report the tampering over rs485. Same if plastic piece on cover door leaves optical sensor, which means cover on device was removed.
Thats confirmed by the reader block having a SIO connection. SIO is a alarm standard for connecting burgular alarms.
The rs485 have 3 pins because the middle is shield. Its indicated by the drawing, showing the end of a antenna cable with its outer shell connected to ground.
Hi Rich , is the capacitor which was previously replaced connected to the faulty chip ? I still can’t think why they replaced it .I keep thinking that this provides a clue .
Having said that , I have never seen a component treated so poorly..it looks like they took it out with a mole grip!
Yeah, I showed in the video it goes directly to one of the shorted pins on the IC, but not to the other one
Hi Richard, i have a question to you :). Do PSU have influence on a GPU coil whine? Understandable if it was low quality PSU with unstable voltages etc. but i read on forums that people had corsair rm850x and after change on straight power 11 coil whine was ended... How to explain that?
Salam hello sir please I want the links for finding datasheet equipment, electronic
I will appreciate if you can help me with resource material and guide to start my career in electronics. I am having a hard time understanding it cause lots of the resource material out in the open look abstract. Thank you
Your understanding of electronics is superb and i will like to understand it the way u do. Help me if u can thanks
Is there a reason why you can't use voltage injections to find where the short is on the board?
Watch part 2
@@LearnElectronicsRepair thanks
Anyone know the type of green connectors?
sounds like a stepper motor controller chip
Good 👍 #shoaibelectronicstech
How much did you end up charging your customer? How come your customer couldn't get a similar board? Surely would have been cheaper.
Wait until part two. Usually a PCB like this will be several hundred to several thousand euro/dollar/whatever to replace. And that is if the company who made it (I think this one is 20 years old or so) are still in existence and still produce it.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair looking forward to Part 2. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Escape connector...lol
Fault: "Chunky looking thing..."
so many MELF resistors
Turnstile card skidata sd420/06
Yep. hard to find a replacement even if they still make it, and how long to ship to the canary Islands?
@@LearnElectronicsRepair Your the right man for the job. 😍
Another ripper tutorial. Legend.
Cant wait for part 2. Enjoy your beer Rich
!!