Valentín Giró - K2 Magic Line Expedition (English version)
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2013
- In June 2004 a small team of five climbers - Óscar Cadiach, Manel de la Matta, Jordi Tosas, Jordi Corominas and Valentín Giró - travelled to Pakistan with a challenging dream in their minds: to climb K2, the "Mountain of Mountains" by the Magic Line route. With an altitude of 8.611 meters, K2 it's not only the second highest peak on Earth. It's shape and vertical drop make K2 the only eight-thousander where somebody who is placed at its Base Camp (5.100 m) can reach visually a climber on the summit! Climbers say about K2 that its a mountain that really begins when many other eight-thousanders end. With this film and also through my Blog (www.valentingiro.com/) I want to share now this story that has marked my life forever, not only for what I experienced and learned there with my team mates but particularly for what we lost in this mountain. The film of the K2 Magic Line EXpedition shows how five passioned climbers worked hard and feel good to make real an ambitious dream. This film is also in Spanish and Catalan version:
• Valentín Giró - Expedi... (ESP)
• Valentín Giró - Expedi... (CAT)
Take a minute to consider Jordi Corominas’ summit day. Leaving Camp 4 at 4am, climbing largely alone through waist high snow on a route not climbed for 20yrs, at an elevation of over 8000m WITHOUT supplemental oxygen, summiting in the middle of the night, and descending through the Bottleneck with the overhanging serac on an unfamiliar route. Truly phenomenal.
Amazing .... and how the hell he found the bottleneck on a route he didn`t know is quite extraordinary.
Many lost themself while the descent... how he found the way in the night it's beyond me
@@T0n189 he's super humble, professional mountain guide and he never enjoyed being famous. That's possibly greatest climb in history of man kind. He's outliar of death zone as not only entered there 4am also climbing day before afternoon at 8100-8280m and sleeping overnight at 8100m before 20hour summit push then descending with headlamp via Bottleneck, meeting Japanese team after 5am at C4 of Cesen-Abruzzi 8000m. That's over 36hours timeline.
amazing, :0
@@19Kamau79 Nahhhh not quite ..... Ueli Steck climbing Annapurna by the South Face solo in 25 hours is just beyond imagination.
Jordi Corominas’ was a truly great climb too ..... no disrespect from me.
“If climbers who reach the summit of Mt. Everest touch the sky, those who reach K2’s summit, touch the sky. And win it.” Hell yeah.
Hell Yea :)
@@TheMaddi001 Heaven yeah too.
R.I.P. Manel. One of the most beautiful, pure ascents I have ever seen. Their attitude, their thoughts, their positivity and appreciation for the beauty of the mountains, their humility, their warm fraternity with each other and with the porters, and their courage in the face of death, are to me what mountaineering should be about. I think in some ways climbing mountains is really a way to explore the human spirit and find out who we are. This was not just a technical accomplishment, but a beautiful adventure. Well done Jordi Corominas, Manel de la Matta, Óscar Cadiach, Valentín Giró, and Jordi Tosas.
One of the best climbing docs I've seen, and I've seen a lot. They shot all the footage themselves, and it's the great MAGIC LINE! K2 was still pretty much a true alpine climb at this time. No bunch of local "slaves" carrying coffee makers, Os, or dragging climbers. These guys laid the lines and broke trail themselves! 20 days of straight climbing WITHOUT SUPPLEMENTAL OXYGEN. In a time when Everest has been little more than an expensive climbing Club Med, this doc is completely refreshing. They tour us on all the famous surrounding peaks and many great views down the majestic glaciers, with good attention to the routes. Routes and mtns I have traced on Google Earth and climbing sites dozens of times (armchair climber, so as close as I'll get!). The resolution is better than many Nat Geo YT transfers. I cried when they opened their tent at their 7,300m bivouac and captured the stunning view. The immediacy of the "home' movies really gave everything a great reality. Even an avalanche was endured from the climber's POV. RIP Manel, and cheers to the rest for their achievement and this great doc.
why dont you marry it then
@@MKxpl She never said it was Everest. Read it again. She was comparing K2 to the "Club Med" Everest of today.
That is an amazingly cutting post from someone who has no experience or right to criticise in such a demeaning manner. Unless you do a lot of jogging and push ups on that couch of yours, you would never make the trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp let alone climb that or any other mountain.
You are right, Everest is a peanut compared to Mighty K2, lazy laidback people have no idea what K2 is, the magic line even makes it more difficult on the top of it if you consider it from North Side "North Ridge" that is almost impossible. They say "summiting K2 once is more difficult than winning 10 Olympics Gold medals.
How dare you @rudelady to call the locals as slaves.
The view out of the tent at camp 3 is amazing and terrifying at the same time.
Tears came to my eyes. That was so beautiful and so crazy. One of the best shots of mountaineering docs, ever.
Walking without being tied in at 7,500m 30:12 & 31:53
Amazing I am Pakistani and I would never dare to climb K2 big hats off to these people of steel, lots of respect ✊
That Magic Line is like an ultra marathon! It takes a certain kinda rare person to even want to face something that tough.
“If you don’t leave home, you’ll never climb the K2” ~ Jordi Corominas best quote ever!
Agreed buddy
That's why I don't leave home. If I wake up one morning to find myself on the Magic Line and it's summit day I'm just gonna quietly grab one of those ropes and hang myself. Fun to watch though, that's for certain. Close as I plan on getting.
Best quote hu?! Weirdo
respect, true
Yes it’s true but only hero’s claim k2 ❤️ timo
Climb on, Manel, climb on!
We are coming behind you.
Your goodness has touched us all.
RIP Manel... great adventure and splendid scenery, there's no other place on earth that can compare to the beauty of the Karakoram range in Pakistan, but also its fraught with danger... its raw nature at its best, Salam!
+N1CY thanks buddy
I loved the positive attitudes of all the climbers here more than anything else. But the footage was unparalleled as far as K2 videos goes. Thanks.
Yes its a totally different view from the Magic Line where you get to see peaks you rarely see on Abruzzi Spur.
Just getting to the base of K2 would be a great a great adventure!
one of the best climbing documentaries I've ever seen
Wich ons is the best
This is by far the most impressive expedition I have ever seen! A team of 4 men from base camp to summit, doing EVERYTHING by themselves.
Building their own routes, safety lines, camps.
They went up & down the mountain a dozen times in order to bring up enough equipment to camps.
None of them used oxygen. Corominas summitted by himself & descended down the other side of the mountain! He was there for the 1st time, alone, at night, without existing safety lines and no oxygen! How did he make it?!
All other expeditions I have seen on video pale in comparison to this!!!
I fall asleep to K2 documentaries on a nightly basis. The dreams I have consist of me climbing K2 and they're freaking awesome :-)!! K2 is a mountain of mountains and I applaud anybody that has been a part of climbing that mountain!!
Have you tried climbing mountains?
Really Incredible story ! imagine to climb the hardest route on the hardest mountain in the world, reach the summit at night alone! and then descend the other route alone in night through the most dangerous part on K2- bottleneck ! absolutely amazing, bravo Jordi Corominas !
Would you like adventure of k2?
Seems almost fictional
Did he have on a GPS tracker to verify this? Insane feat if he did🙏
I'd say the hardest route is the east side in winter. In that no one's tried the former, and no one has succeeded at the latter.
@@choubala He went down the Abruzzi line, meeting with the Japanese camp at 8000m. There's only one way he could have gotten there from the Magic Line, and that's via the summit of K2...
@@jolly_roger2 Amazing, thanks for that insight!!! This must be one of the greatest all time feats on K2. Right along with the recent winter summit by Sherpa group
This proves that K2 is scary as hell. Those men got up to camp 4, spent the night and said Helll no! With all that experience up to that point to turn away had to be frightening.
with no oxygen!!!
They were just shattered.
2:44, RIP Manel, still the 16 seconds of euphony that accompanied the obituary was very, very touching. Sad yet elegant.
Rest in peace, Manel de la Matta. You and your teammates have been immortalized by your accomplishments documented in this film, so that you will not be forgotten.
Thanks for sharing english version!
Real and touching story about K2...
i hve been to base camp of k2 and believe me what i saw around was unbelievable i couldn't believe it there was always a smile on face wish i could go to top of k2
Masha Allah
I am from Baltistan.my home town is 3 hours far to k2 mountain.. Very lovely place.. It is a great blessing of Allah to the peoples of Baltistan
When will someone climb masherbrum again such an incredible and difficult mountain
11:50 respect to this guy.
In relation to what Bonington said, I guess for most people, it doesn't really matter if the route is 100% unclimbed. Unless you have actually done it before, to you, the experience is new and fresh. Even the feeling that comes with climbing and accomplishing a new route, the majority of the joy is transitory.
The best documentary of mounatineering i had ever seen..RIP to Manel..wht a sheer team work..jordi manel, antonio, pakistani porters nd others in d team hs truly showed wht tht team spirit is..may God bless u all..
Manel's words in the end is just so poetic and wise...
love uu 03165366757 i m local k2 climber contect me
salute to the whole team
The king of mountain the bride of mountaineers always waiting for brave hearts unexpected where weathers can be worse any second always respect heroes like these just speechless voice from Pakistan
Thank you so much for the English version w/ subtitles. I've this about fifty times, but today was the best viewing yet!
watched so many climbing videos Jordi's climb and summit really is one of the worlds most outstanding climbs ive seen
One of the best mountaineering docos I've seen. So authentic. It's rare to have great narration too (both content and delivery). Thank you.
Very nicely documented.... Salute to Manel .. He is resting in piece on his dream for forever ❤
such a beautiful documentary. really moved me
ellin dear i love you
one of the hardest climbs in the world no doubt .. salute sir ...
+David F The East and North Faces of K2 are unclimbed. Oh not forgetting east face of Kanch. Enough said.
Agreed David there are a hell of a lot of unclimbed routes all around. It was Messner who said the Polish line on K2 was suicidal and Jerzy did it and it's never been tried again.
@@shaundevlin4902where does masherbrum NE face rank?
That is a good question. After spending a couple of days looking at internet pictures of it WOW! Well I guess it is up there with
K2's unclimbed East Face. @@JL-nk1pc
Indeed a great documentary. I wished there was one on Jerzy Kukuczka's ascent on the Polish Line. Due to it being the most dangerous route, it will never be repeated nor will anyone try to achieve this for a very long time.
Surely someone will attempt it or is this spirit of alpinism dead?
These men and women who attempt such a challenge as climbing K2, they inspire me with my smaller challenges. As we all live going "from tragedy to tragedy" in an optimistic climb of the steep slope of life. Always toward the summit.
Great video. It takes great courage to climb such mountains.
Absolutely amazing documentary i can’t imagine jordi corominas’ feeling on his summit day. This route seems to have a perfect name.
R.I.P. Manel
What is amazing, is that nowadays everyone has better technical gear and equipment and would still struggle to do this..... but these guys did this in 2004 with inferior gear and sheer determination, skill and ability. It was really neat seeing the equipment they were using versus modern mountaineers.
Which begs the question where are the talented hungry climbers attempting new routes? Alpinism has become more about business than explorations.
I believe the polish like (Kukuczka - Piotrowski) is the most difficult road on K2. It was never repeated for a reason. The Poles did great things on K2, but the price was too high.
he died on Lhotse
@@gtr5860 I know, but other polish climbers I meant died on K2. Piotrowski, Wróż, Mrówka.
The polish were crazy in those days 😮 are there any young polish climbers or is that spirit of alpinism finished in Poland?
RIP Manel. Jordi is a legend of mountaineering.
Bless all who have lost their lives on mountains and bless those who gave lost loved ones on the mountains,great documentary, bless manel ur sadly missed
Amazing video ... I was upset to hear Manel died on the way down. I was worrying for the guy who went over the top alone at night! Sad!
One of the best documentaries.
Fantastic film and a great achievment. Thanks for posting this English version. So much more impressive than Everest, even the walk in to base-camp is hardcore! On Everest if you're at BC you can always take a half hour walk to Gorak-shep and buy a beer (I know I did when I was climbing Pumori and we were on a rest day!). And you don't get the "Ice-fall doctors" on K2 to help you over the dangerous part.
Good to hear this from a climber who has been there. I am only an avid armchair climber and I was blown away by this film, one of the best climbing docs I've seen, including IMAX and all the fancy camera docs and dramas of poor over-used Everest. Amazing how so few docs bother to show all the routes, or point out the other Ks!
a story worth telling of very tough men but men who care RIP Manel
145 people summited K2 in one day last month. Absolute madness.
Can't believe anyone would feel the need to make k2 MORE difficult.
Good point!
Steart Fires kukuczka line
Poles have found the way to make k2 the MOST difficult: they climb in the winter.
They did not
It is explained very well in the film. If people only do climbed routes, there is no future in mountaineering and alpine adventure dies. Look at what Everest has sadly become, and some other Himalayan peaks. And K2 is now getting crowded. But she will keep her secrets better than Everest! No one will enjoy espresso on the Magic Line. Hopefully.
One of the best Himalaya documentaries ever made. I have many on DVD and this one truly captures what climbing there is all about.
A great video...great photography which makes you feel you are on K2....For all the wankers with the negative comments...get a life !
Amazing video... thanks for sharing this
Thank you so much for the English subtitles. There's so many great mountain climbing videos that I can't watch because I don't understand the language! Thanks for taking me with you on your great adventures!
Excellent video with stunning views of majestic mountains and the toughest and best trekking in the world.
one the the rawest, purest forms of documentaries I have seen. Just goes to show that it takes a team for even one man to summit K2.
This is an absolute treasure for alpine mountaineers & laymen alike! Thank you for sharing🙏🏼
I am from Gilgit, good to see this old yet fascinating video. In 2004 we used to play football and cricket in our fields while legends played K2 K2.
The death of Manel really made me sad. RIP.
Shaun D You’re a charmer
As one climber put it ...Everest is for wine and cheese party's. .K2 is for real climbers☺☺
I see the fun banter.. but.. Everest is still deadly and difficult.. and one does not have the right to disrespect those that attempt it and those that lose their lives in doing so.. including Ueli Steck.
Only pussies die on everest
@@lovefist208 have you ever climbed Everest? Or any mountain?
@@mohamedAli-kj6fb omfg! Do you even sarcasm
@@lovefist208 my bad, put in some emoji so we know how you feel 👍
Another very rare great video which is not drowned with stupid music but the roar facts of the journey. Bitersweet with achievment and loss but that seems to be the equation with great endeavours. Those that lived to tell the tale, but include with great humbleness those who did not. (English commentary greatly appreciated)
Incredible bravery and strength ..huge respect Jordi 👏
"A very easy name for the very hardest mountain.
K2"
RIP fellow climber ! Great effort by the whole team .. brilliantly captured.
Great video and thanks for posting. Always been fascinated with some of these lesser climbed routes and its great to get a documentary on one. Appalling some of the comments on here but thats the internet i guess. RIP Manel
I wonder if having oxygen would have helped manel survive. What a trully sad ending for such a great success. RIP dude
Kudos to these Mountaineers who have the drive and courage to climb these Mountains more power to them.
Great video. A great adventure, a harrowing story. Thank you very much for sharing such an amazing experience!
2:00 in 1986 two Poles and one Slovak(!) passed Magic Line;
Filmmakers also forgot to mention even more difficult way, between Magic Line and Abruzzi, known as Polish Line, demarcated in 1986 by Poles too (Kukuczka & Piotrowski) and NEVER repeated. I am the representative of the most awesome nation climbing the Himalayas! :)
#K2ForPoles #K2DlaPolaków
That's great...
Is it the same Cessen route?
Too bad k2 isn’t in the Himalayas!
@@TheRiijk No problem for the Poles - they showed their class also in Karakoram.
@@TheRiijk Karakoram is one part of Himalayas and not separate
@@khalidyzai9476 No. The Polish Line is west of the Cessan Route. It's also known as The South Face. It'a a truly insane route that nobody else has ever attempted!
Deep respect for these heroes. Rest In Peace Manel
Beautiful, pure ascent. This was world class
How I enjoy the narrator's voice
And the video
Great documentary nice work....RIP Manel
Most incredible achievement!
wow beautiful documentary rip manel
Great job. As a climber myself this is amazing. If only I had the time and money to get to that part of the world for some real alpine climbing.
Awesome, awesome views, a must watch!👍
RIP to those heroes who lost their life at K2.
Are you meaning the sherpas? Because the rest are payed idiots that rely on sherpas only
@@maoritane9337 Wrong mountain-you're thinking of Everest.
Thankful I found this gem, brilliantly told
Very well done. Thank you
Great film, thank you..! Here you can see we are not more then ants on our planet...
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Those who even go through Abruzzi are crazy enough
But going to magic line is insane should consult a psychiatrist
Lol it's all about the quest. Once it's in you you cant let it go untill the mission is complete. I totally understand the psychology and drive of mountaineers.
A tale of immense courage and perseverance
Manel will always be above the mountains watching out for his friends as they do what they all love until they all meet again. R.I.P
Amazing video, brilliant. Enjoyed every minute
Božik, Piasecki, Wróż...
The "Polish Line" of Kukuczka & Piotrowski is similary great. And never repeated!!!
good film...i love real life adventure stories
Fantastic documentary
I Love Icefalls and crevases....they are like a wonder world where the time seams to be loocked in that Ice.
Pure magic .
I never treck....but i start to love this shit....im in love
I've never climbed but these mountaineering adventures really fascinate me. What would worry me If I were a cimber, even if I'd possessed a very high degree of climbing skills is the fact that there is so much that can go wrong.
One error, one avalanche, one rock fall, one turn for the worse of weather. So to accomplish such feats takes an enormous amount of courage and determination. Sorry walking up the miners track of Snowdon is about my limit!
He climbed OVER K2 at night, alone. Crazy bastard!
It's Catholic Strength. He was stepping to the death zone day before afternoon started his climb 4am from last camp and pushed 20 hours to the summit then descending and meeting Japanese team around 6am at 7900m on the Abruzzi route. He spent around 40 hours above 8000m and pushing himself thru the most difficult terrain without use of supplemental oxygen. He wasn't alone he was dealing with the God.
19Kamau79 Keep religion out of this you freak. It was definitely not Catholicism that carried him through the mountains, it was hard training. You can say God, but not Catholicism, might as well say Islamism/Buddhism/Christianity
@@19Kamau79 fuck off with your pathetic god.
@@19Kamau79 If young boys lived on top of high mountains I'm sure catholic priests would be the best mountaineers =D
Lol I'm not Catholic just climber himself is and it's source of all his strength. If any Muslim repeats his feat then will be Allah on his side.
Superb, thank you
Truly amazing Journey
Great movie, touching story...
Amazing documentary great background music too thanks
on K2 at night on my own and than u have to find the way back l mean new way back how crazy u have to get ?????
K2 for Dedicated Professionals .
Mount everest for mountain lovers.
Traverse Magic Line to Abruzzi -- A Hero's Journey
How do the climbers get the ropes up there in the first place? How is that even possible I don’t understand because it’s so steep and just a sheet of ice. Do they dig their ice axes in and pull themselves up?
"150 years later, just one of those numbers is left" *Sad K6 Noises*
The best! ♥
Great Achievement, Congratulations