Your review is great but missing one thing that was important to us. We have 2011 leaf which is fully loaded with all luxurious things since August 2010. Almost 14 years!! Fourteen years!!. Great car, the most reliable car we have ever owned. It is at 285,000km. 3 months ago, we decided to to move on to never model, 2020-2022. we did test drive number of times, we were so close to buy until we got kids in it. It turned out second gen leaf is smaller. Kids head was hitting the headliner of the car. We immediately turn the deal down. Then we purchased 2017 Leaf since our 2011' battery was quite bit degraded. 2017 was made in USA , our 2011 was made in Japan. Huge difference !! workmanship, quality have a day and night difference. One thing was better on 2017 SL that is the battery. Anyways, we could not stand with the poor craftsmanship, and sold 2017 Leaf after two months. Anyways, We were able to find 62KW donor battery and put it on 2011 leaf with few modifications. Now, it has his second life. i can say that this car was not belong to his era at all. Great car. if you can find cheap, battery degraded 2011-2012 model, just buy it and replace the battery. you will not regret. Regards to you all.
Great story about your 2011 Leaf getting a second life. How did you find a donor battery, how much did it cost, and how much was installation. I live in the Dallas area and wanted to do the same with my 2014 Leaf but it would have cost about $11k.
@@bagofnothing Hi, we all know how ridiculous today's car prices are. My neighbour just bought an Ionic 5 ns for $90,000. I don't believe in spending that much money on a car. I like to live in debt-free and invest the money where it generates income. Swapping the battery for the 2014 Leaf should be much easier. 2011 is the first gen, and I had to purchase many additional equipment /parts to get it to work. Dallas is not a good area to source a battery. You want to look at where the climate is good for the leaf battery. I found my donor battery from Seattle for $4500 (CAD) , paid customs and customs broker and shipped an additional $1,700 CAD, the Cam bridge $1,200, and Suspension modifications and spring change cost $2,000, CAD. So, basically, I invested around $10,000 Canadian dollars on a 14-year-old car, but it runs great, and I am very satisfied. The range is 465km on a single charge. Hope this helps.
I am in the market for a used Nissan Leaf for commuting. I have 22 Solar panels on my roof & this time of year I am making more power than I use & selling that extra power to Duke Energy. I may as well use the extra power to charge an electric car.
Today We bought a used 2016 Nissan Leaf S from a local Ford dealer. We ended up with a deal of $7,000.00 out the door. This ford dealer was familiar with the Federal Tax Credit & gave that to us up front. That dropped the out the door price to $4,900.00, how can you beat that? & this car still has 11 Bars of the 12 original bars.
4:15 can we all just agree that ‘Bucket’ is such an ace name 😂 also, great concise and informative content, liked, commented and subscribed. Hopefully being in Kenya right now, it should work that algorithm a bit more 😉
I was asking the same question to myself a few weeks ago. So I went I bought a Hyundai Ioniq Electric with way better range, space, and spec then these. and with CCS Type 2 (not a rare CHAdeMO), Anroid Auto, Adaptive Cruise Control as standard.
Great video. I'm seriously considering either. There's a old model here for £ 3,000 30kwh. A newer model for £7,000 40kwh. UK . Do both models have V2H or V2G. thats a money maker here in the UK. Great vid thanks for the comparison. Also enjoyed the '3 things to check' video. previously Andy UK
I test drove a 2018 Leaf last weekend, I much prefer the external styling of the older model, but all the new bells and whistle are nice. I disliked the placement of the speedometer, on my Mazda 3 it's front and center so a quick glance is all I need, being offset to the right is annoying. I suppose I'd get used to it, but I don't want to have to. The ChaDeMo charger killed the deal for me, if they'd updated to a CCS then it'd still be a great choice for me.
About the older Leaf hands free driving feature , I was curious about how it works. Is it for city streets, potential obstacles in front of you, lane adjusting? Does it show cars in blind spots? Or is it for highways and on-ramps? I don’t know at all about the phone features. Is that for a planned route? Tx
the RADAR at the front carries out the emergency stop, the camera checks out the road signs the tyre pressures will only show when driving, otherwise the batteries in the wheels would go flat in your garage, the batteries are not replaceable, you have to buy complete valve units + get them reprogrammed by a dealer. perhaps it would be wise to read the owner's handbook before making a video
I may be late to the party, but the vehicle will only show tire pressures when the vehicle is on and moving. Secondly, you may have figured it out by now but are you using an appropriate iPhone cable that does power and data? If you're using a cheap charging cable it might not carry data and thus will not work with carplay. Get a wireless adapter for it though. So much better.
10:02 My car (not a Leaf) is the same - the sensors don't report until you drive a bit and get some rotation into the wheels. Not sure if it's some kind of battery saving thing or whatever, but that's my guess.
??? Does anyone know when your buying used and not the original owner how a purchase of a 2016 Nissan Leaf SL would work under the ''battery degradation protection program ''' ? Another RUclipsr who was the original owner for his 2016 Leaf said the dealership gave him a free software upgrade that took his battery state of health from 8 bars back to 11 bars, presumably all for free,
For the first 4 years I mainly charged to 80%, now it’s set to 100%, but I rarely charge it all the way up. In the new one, we charge it to 100% once or twice a week.
KG's 2013 is an S trim level which does not have a heat pump. It gets complicated - the SV has a heat pimp but only if it has the cold weather package, while the SL always has a heat pump. Incidentally, KG at 1:35 mentioned virtually no degradation, but the picture of the dash display shows 2 bars have gone which suggests something like 25% degradation. That is fairly typical for a 2013 (depending on climate, usage, luck of the draw, etc.). A 2011 or 2012 at 60K miles would show higher degradation.
With a Tesla you have to go to a Tesla approved body shop a regular shop can't get parts $$, Where I live there is only 2 in a city of 1.6 million. Another problem is Elon Musk last month he fired the entire Super Team (That was the number 1 reason to buy a Tesla) He does crazy shit, Plus his big pay out it works to $10k for every car Tesla has ever sold. Another problem is they move there sale price up and down like the gas price roller costar some owners have been pissed off because of this experience, Can you imagine buying a Tesla for $70k on week and the next week the price has changed to $60k.
Your review is great but missing one thing that was important to us. We have 2011 leaf which is fully loaded with all luxurious things since August 2010. Almost 14 years!! Fourteen years!!. Great car, the most reliable car we have ever owned. It is at 285,000km. 3 months ago, we decided to to move on to never model, 2020-2022. we did test drive number of times, we were so close to buy until we got kids in it. It turned out second gen leaf is smaller. Kids head was hitting the headliner of the car. We immediately turn the deal down. Then we purchased 2017 Leaf since our 2011' battery was quite bit degraded. 2017 was made in USA , our 2011 was made in Japan. Huge difference !! workmanship, quality have a day and night difference. One thing was better on 2017 SL that is the battery. Anyways, we could not stand with the poor craftsmanship, and sold 2017 Leaf after two months. Anyways, We were able to find 62KW donor battery and put it on 2011 leaf with few modifications. Now, it has his second life. i can say that this car was not belong to his era at all. Great car. if you can find cheap, battery degraded 2011-2012 model, just buy it and replace the battery. you will not regret. Regards to you all.
Great story about your 2011 Leaf getting a second life. How did you find a donor battery, how much did it cost, and how much was installation. I live in the Dallas area and wanted to do the same with my 2014 Leaf but it would have cost about $11k.
@@bagofnothing Hi, we all know how ridiculous today's car prices are. My neighbour just bought an Ionic 5 ns for $90,000. I don't believe in spending that much money on a car. I like to live in debt-free and invest the money where it generates income. Swapping the battery for the 2014 Leaf should be much easier. 2011 is the first gen, and I had to purchase many additional equipment /parts to get it to work. Dallas is not a good area to source a battery. You want to look at where the climate is good for the leaf battery. I found my donor battery from Seattle for $4500 (CAD) , paid customs and customs broker and shipped an additional $1,700 CAD, the Cam bridge $1,200, and Suspension modifications and spring change cost $2,000, CAD. So, basically, I invested around $10,000 Canadian dollars on a 14-year-old car, but it runs great, and I am very satisfied. The range is 465km on a single charge. Hope this helps.
I am in the market for a used Nissan Leaf for commuting. I have 22 Solar panels on my roof & this time of year I am making more power than I use & selling that extra power to Duke Energy. I may as well use the extra power to charge an electric car.
Today We bought a used 2016 Nissan Leaf S from a local Ford dealer. We ended up with a deal of $7,000.00 out the door. This ford dealer was familiar with the Federal Tax Credit & gave that to us up front. That dropped the out the door price to $4,900.00, how can you beat that? & this car still has 11 Bars of the 12 original bars.
4:15 can we all just agree that ‘Bucket’ is such an ace name 😂 also, great concise and informative content, liked, commented and subscribed. Hopefully being in Kenya right now, it should work that algorithm a bit more 😉
Man thanks much....very helpful video!
💯
Thanks! Very useful information.
Very helpful!
Thanks, pal! Great video!
No problem!
Nice information
Great video
We have one of each too.
I vote Bucket for star of this video
I was asking the same question to myself a few weeks ago. So I went I bought a Hyundai Ioniq Electric with way better range, space, and spec then these. and with CCS Type 2 (not a rare CHAdeMO), Anroid Auto, Adaptive Cruise Control as standard.
Great video.
I'm seriously considering either. There's a old model here for £ 3,000 30kwh. A newer model for £7,000 40kwh. UK . Do both models have V2H or V2G. thats a money maker here in the UK. Great vid thanks for the comparison. Also enjoyed the '3 things to check' video. previously
Andy UK
I test drove a 2018 Leaf last weekend, I much prefer the external styling of the older model, but all the new bells and whistle are nice. I disliked the placement of the speedometer, on my Mazda 3 it's front and center so a quick glance is all I need, being offset to the right is annoying. I suppose I'd get used to it, but I don't want to have to.
The ChaDeMo charger killed the deal for me, if they'd updated to a CCS then it'd still be a great choice for me.
About the older Leaf hands free driving feature , I was curious about how it works. Is it for city streets, potential obstacles in front of you, lane adjusting? Does it show cars in blind spots? Or is it for highways and on-ramps?
I don’t know at all about the phone features. Is that for a planned route? Tx
the RADAR at the front carries out the emergency stop, the camera checks out the road signs
the tyre pressures will only show when driving, otherwise the batteries in the wheels would go flat in your garage, the batteries are not replaceable, you have to buy complete valve units + get them reprogrammed by a dealer. perhaps it would be wise to read the owner's handbook before making a video
Thanks Paul for the information.
Good vid. How’s the 911 conversion coming along?
Thanks! Slow on the 911, but I worked some yesterday and plan to tomorrow too. I plan to post an update video tomorrow if all goes well!
Awesome - look forward t more it
I may be late to the party, but the vehicle will only show tire pressures when the vehicle is on and moving. Secondly, you may have figured it out by now but are you using an appropriate iPhone cable that does power and data? If you're using a cheap charging cable it might not carry data and thus will not work with carplay. Get a wireless adapter for it though. So much better.
10:02 My car (not a Leaf) is the same - the sensors don't report until you drive a bit and get some rotation into the wheels. Not sure if it's some kind of battery saving thing or whatever, but that's my guess.
??? Does anyone know when your buying used and not the original owner how a purchase of a 2016 Nissan Leaf SL would work under the
''battery degradation protection program ''' ? Another RUclipsr who was the original owner for his 2016 Leaf said the dealership gave him a free software upgrade that took his
battery state of health from 8 bars back to 11 bars, presumably all for free,
Anything warranty related would apply to any owner of the vehicle
How do you keep your Leafs to have minimum to no battery degradation ?
charge 80%, try to not fully going to near 0%
VSP (Vehicle sound for pedestrians) is that sound able to be switched off?
Do you charge to 80% or 100%?
For the first 4 years I mainly charged to 80%, now it’s set to 100%, but I rarely charge it all the way up. In the new one, we charge it to 100% once or twice a week.
Does it have a heat pump
KG's 2013 is an S trim level which does not have a heat pump. It gets complicated - the SV has a heat pimp but only if it has the cold weather package, while the SL always has a heat pump. Incidentally, KG at 1:35 mentioned virtually no degradation, but the picture of the dash display shows 2 bars have gone which suggests something like 25% degradation. That is fairly typical for a 2013 (depending on climate, usage, luck of the draw, etc.). A 2011 or 2012 at 60K miles would show higher degradation.
None of them has active battery temp control, so I guess YOU should buy NEITHER ?
TPMS only works when the car is moving.
Decided to go with a Tesla…
okay
With a Tesla you have to go to a Tesla approved body shop a regular shop can't get parts $$, Where I live there is only 2 in a city of 1.6 million. Another problem is Elon Musk last month he fired the entire Super Team (That was the number 1 reason to buy a Tesla) He does crazy shit, Plus his big pay out it works to $10k for every car Tesla has ever sold. Another problem is they move there sale price up and down like the gas price roller costar some owners have been pissed off because of this experience, Can you imagine buying a Tesla for $70k on week and the next week the price has changed to $60k.
Nah. the original Leaf is ugly AF! We've just got a 2022 Tekna model (SL as you describe)