Beautiful job! I did this by hand! For my 1990 Yamaha fj1200. Looked great but not as easy as you made it look. This looks so much easier lol. Makes all the difference if you want to restore a vintage bike back to life again.
Actually Mathew I give a thumbs up; great job and video. Due to personal incidents wearing gloves and rotating machinery (drills, rotary wire brush ) and several RUclips pros warning against wearing gloves; I decided to take their advice. I keep a bucket of water at the floor and dip the alloy piece which saps the heat immediately; then back to polishing , happy days .
with practice on alloy you don't need to go above 400... (with pink rouge used afterwards on a 6 to 8inch or above wheel) I polish for a living and what you have shown here is pretty much what we do. Great seeing how other people do things...! great video
Scotch brite wheels of different grits will give you the same finish properly used, until final polishing that will require a polish such as simichrome or autosol. Also to protect your finish from re-tarnishing from the elements , i would use a crystal clear coat spray from Eastwood products, which will not peel or yellow & is specifically used for non ferrous metals.
I always try to go high as I can with sand paper and it will cut down buffing time. Wet 2000 grit does wonders on aluminum. Nice video. Ignore all of the negative comments. I can tell you got skills bro.
This is by far the best explanation I've seen and the best method. I've used this method for 16 years myself to yield professional results every time. I cringe when I see people start at 120 or 180 and hand sand all the way to 2500!! Awesome video!!
i use a dremel tool with polishing bits for hard to reach areas like the bolt holes, engraved letterings, i use it to polish carbs. i'm on a budget so i do wet sanding with 400/800/1000/2000 grit, 320 grit for heavily oxidized parts, then straight to autosol polishing compound.
Cool video, a word of caution, I would use rubber gloves when sanding aluminum and also use a respirator. I developed a sensitivity to aluminum when I was polishing bicycle parts. Scary to say the least.
I needed to polish some aluminum parts and watched your video. It was very informative and now I know what I need to do to achieve a remarkable end product. So this video is just what the doctor ordered. What is very surprising is in reading the commits I am blown away with what appears to be some of the viewers who seem to be jealous and resentful that you may have received a generous offering from Eastwood. Who cares how you acquired your equipment, provided you didn't steal it. When one becomes envious and resentful over someone else and what others have, that is a condition as bad as cancer or some other disease
There will always be haters. I see I wrote "commits" instead of "comment". Oh well. I already had some inexpensive things from Harbor Freight, so my equipment wasn't professional grade but the result was a lot better than I was expecting.
I dont understand the stupid comments . I am working doing the same work on my bike, actually the same part and a bunch of others. Great instructional video. Thanks for a video well done.
Great video 👍👍. I just bought this setup for my shop. I do restorations on cars and motorcycles. This is going to save me money to pay my polishing guy every time I need something done. Thank you for sharing your way of polishing parts.
Instead of using sandbags or bolting your stand to the floor, try bolting it to a rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood. Leave an 18" - 24" "tongue" in front of the stand. Then just stand on the plywood while you are buffing, your weight will hold the buffer in place. This way you can take the buffer outside of your garage and avoid flinging compound all over your walls/floors/ceilings.
I,ve done some metal polishing at a place I use to work at. once the chrome and nickel been strip . I looked for scratches and nicks from the rust and how deep. then I look at the thickness off the metal I,m going to polish for rechroming. I agree with you on explaining the surface. when I explain it to the the person who own the car bumper. it went over his head.but he was happy it was in the right hands .before I started polishing years before. a polisher explain on how its done. but I also taught myself. like how many stages I,m going to do. just like you explain it. I,m a short guy which I polish a massive 68 impala bumper here in new zealand. it came out like factory. but better. pitty the chrome platers never had a cooper bath.[ 3 stage plating ]. stainless steal is the hardess metal to polish . great vid mate .awesome on explaining stages
Sanding grit = Start at the finest grit you think you will use, then go progressively coarser until you arrive at the grit you need to remove the defects in the part. Stay gold.
Got myself a pile of metal sandpaper and tubes of alloy cleaner and now i need some pain killers for my arthritis and all ready to clean all the Bultaco engines.Been a year now and kept putting it off hoping to find a old 1980 buffer wheel they last forever
Good video for those who have never done it. WOW 50% have valid comments and constructive critisisum and the other 50% think with their little head! Always amazes me when someone such as yourself takes the time to do a video, regardless of what it is and "Little Heads" trash it to bits. If they are such experts, then they should get off their Gluteus maximus and make a video. Then and only then will they truly understand the complexity of filming, editing and answering follow-up comments.
I was going to ask the same; I have polished aluminum parts in the past and they've oxidized back to a matt finish in a matter of weeks. I'm assuming some sort of clear coat (2K for preference) would be needed.
Ignore all the dislikes and haters, you're making great videos man. Loved the intro hahaha, you forgot to add the link for that special elbow grease you used.
I need to do this on my BSA motorcycle I’m restoring, going to take allot of time and money. Allot of components, rocker covers, timing cover and primary cover etc. Would rather do it myself though and wouldn’t trust anyone else to do it. Thanks for the video!
I I have no idea how to do this and thanks to your video I’ve got a good head start. I could not find 2 inch sanding pads for my DA sander like you have and Eastwood have these supplies as well as all the buffing materials so I’m using your video as a primer to polishing practically the same parts seen in your video. Big thanks...i subscribed. I am looking for a buffer, found one on northern tool....staying away from HF junk. Thanks again for the great instruction!
I have mixed feelings about Scotch Brite pads with aluminum parts. Yes, they quickly take the part from, say a vapor-blasted finish to a first-level polishing but it will be uneven and even the extra fine pads chew into aluminum and you end up using sandpaper anyway to remove that damage. And they are expensive. Plan on at least one pad ($5) per engine case. Now, I go from vapor (or sand) basting to 600 grit sandpaper (wet) (400 for sandblasting) followed by 1200. Sanding is the only way to get a defect-free finish that is ready for buffing and a high-quality finish.
@@mikehunt783 probably not enough. I have a hard enough time doing my parts, I cant imagine doing other peoples. Though, triple trees are many mostly flat surfaces so not as bad as primary covers or other parts with many edges of various sizes. Those I think i would just blast them and then paint. I polished/repaired fogged headlights (plastic ones) and that was ~30 minutes per light with 8 grits and only made $22.50 per car. NOT ENOUGH to do that crap in the cold or heat of the outdoors. Sure as heck wouldnt do metal which can take all dang day for one silly part. Who want to pay $200 in labor for1 complex engine part or 2 covers? @ Jeff, dude, your a better man than me. No way. I would rather go weld stuff...
not sure if it has been mentioned in the comments, but you should pre-break your sand paper, it will conform to the curves much easier when you use the backer.
Hi, I know this was about polishing the aluminum part and advertising Eastwood products but otherwise it would of been better yo use your vapor blaster first?, Great show!
at 8,18 I see a lot of flaking clear coat and the dark spiderwebbing where the gaps in the clear coat have been oxidizing deep down into the metal. get the clear coat off first with aircraft aluminum paint remover, still available at NAPA. If you don't it will foul your scotch bright pads and or sandpaper. Wetsanding is better than dry. Aluminum you dry polish becomes a breathable dust. Wetsanding means less of it fouling up the sandpaper. put some rubber gloves on. Keep aluminum out of your body. I'm a believer too in ending with really fine sandpaper. 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 grit, and I even have some 3000 grit sandpaper. When maintenance polishing bare aluminum parts you can quickly get stuff off with 3000 grit and then go to the mothers and or buffers. It's a pain to keep up bare aluminum but I can not find an over the counter clear coat that doesn't have a little yellowish tint to aluminum parts. must be nice to have them give you so much stuff.
Very much enjoyed learning along with you. I've gotten pretty clean parts by wet sanding and polishing with drill, but you showed you need the buffer wheel to do a professional job. Question, does the compound get all overt your mask, clothes, walls, ceiling, etc. etc.?
Hi Matthew. I'm all for wearing safety equipment. But you may want to do a little research on the dangers of wearing gloves when using large spinning machinery, (like your new buffing machine). Gloves are more likely to get gripped by the machine than your fingers.
I see your point. You read both gloves and no gloves on the internet. I will say that the parts do get hot, and oil from your hands can ruin finish. Gloves prevent both of these issues.
When gloves get sucked into the machine, the gloves drag your whole hand and possibly arm with them. With no gloves, you nick your flesh and and pull away at the pain and sensation. World of difference. Have done enough training and work in industry to know : No gloves.
Greg Thornton there is not one guy working in a polishing plant, doing it 8 hours per day that doesn’t wear heavy gauntlet style gloves, a heavy apron, and a heavy long sleeve shirt. These aren’t wire wheels, they are cotton. Go to a chrome or polishing shop and check it out. I have and it’s true. Holding metal with sharp edges while it gets hot from the polishing isn’t done without gloves and would be dangerous. Check OSHA regs on it. Sorry....
MatthewMCRepair you are correct about wearing gloves, it is a must. The metal it sharp, hot and slippery. The gloves protect and give a much better grip. Any pro polisher wears gloves and other protective clothing.
SixSixSix there is no machine to get sucked into here guys, this is not a thresher or wood chipper. This is an open wheel, soft cotton, closed edge with no surrounding metal or cabinet. If this was a wire wheel completely different, but it’s not. Also the polishing wheel spins much much slower then a wire wheel or grinding wheel. The motors are a lot less powerful and spin at a much slow speed. Many of them can be stopped by leaning the part heavily against them. Have any of you guy ever worked with one of these machines?? It sounds like you haven’t.
that piece still has somewhat of a "haze" to it. Do you think you might have eliminated that by taking up to a higher grit when sanding to like 1000 or 1500 before you started using on the buffer? just asking
You draw real purty! Do you think they would send me all that stuff at little to no charge? If not then this can't help most of us. We will just have to get Harbor Freight buffing wheels on the grinder. Thanks for the good ideas.
Thanks for the video. However, the bikes never came out of the factory with that mirror finish, so my aim is to take a dirty old engine and get it back the 'clean matt' finish like it comes from the factory, rather than to create a mirror on wheels. Do you have any advice to get it back to the factory look? Or is it as simple as skipping the last few polishing steps? Many thanks
Looks awesome! Just a heads up Honda clear coats the covers when they make them you can use paint stripper to remove it like the guy in the video about restoring aluminum wheels. The clear coat is why they look so nasty after sitting outside in the sun for many years.
Nice video. I have the same Eastwood setup and am trying to learn how to use it properly. Is there anything you can use to coat the aluminum after it is polished to prevent it from oxidizing again?
Cerakote Ceramic Clears air-cure is an option. Understood to be superior to traditional clear but I have not used it myself or seen the results over time.Initial results are impressive however.
Does anybody know how to seal it after, with a clear coat or something? I just finished doing all the covers on my Honda and don't want them to go bad again. Thanks!
uhh, use a clear coat... not to sound like a jerk, but you already had the answer. go to an autobody shop and ask them what they use on aluminum parts and purchase some. Could also hit up a chrome shop, they might not have some on hand but will give you tons of advice on what to use on your parts based on what conditions they will be exposed to. I don't want to give you a LONGGGGGG answer as to the whys with background info as there are too many az-hats who cant read more than 4 words without complaining. BUT, for spokes and rims and cool covers, I use a standard metal clear-coat with several THIN coats left to cure after each spray.(follow manu's instructions.) For the hot parts, or parts that will flex from pressure, I will ALWAYS consult the experts doing that work for a profession as they always know the best product for that condition at that time. What I used 3 years ago is already outdated today as there are several more newer products. Since this video will be up for a long time, i wouldn't take a recommendation from here. Hit up the shops... OR ... just wash and wax on a regular basis. that works too.
Hey Matthew - ignore the trolls! I have a couple of questions, as a complete novice: (1) do you need a 1HP motor, or would a 1/2 HP motor be sufficiently powerful? I can get a 1/2HP kit for a good price, which is why I ask, but a professional polisher I've used in the past once told me you do need plenty of power - what d'you reckon about 370 Watts / 1/2HP? The other question is simply, what is a DA? Maybe it's an American term, like hood instead of bonnet or gas instead of petrol, so could you please explain what it is? Cheers, John (I don;t see any reason for anyone to complain about the video, by the way - it was helpful to me!)
You should have braised aluminum into those scratches you wouldn't have had to sand so much also you should have shot it with gloss black paint first we're all of the wording and indents werethat way you have a nice black background or whatever color
@@HTMR Stuff works great! Especially with a buffing wheel. I polished the internals of a Cz SP-01 with it and a dremel with a felt wheel. Worked great, didnt take long at all.
good job. go up the sanding ladder a little higher and try not to sand too much in the area of the logo. i find rouge good enough unless you're entering a show, mainly due to the fact that it most likely be dusty and dirty 10 min into your first ride.
Why are people saying how expensive machines like this cost? I picked up 2 preowned bench grinders for £20 and just bought the polishing mops and compounds. Just don't go to Eastwood, they are too pricey unless you get given the products.
Wish had a few of them to help clean the Bultaco engines as have 3 to do but no way could afford price so will just rub with chrome cleaner or try making some or could i have yours if you have finished with them as have a stone bench and will fit mine i think
Try vapour blasting (water) or dry ice blasting and then polish. Mush faster. Pricier investment but you can clean up those covers/case covers in 2-3 minutes and then move on to polish.
![BENEY - Ride With Me | [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4LUsPhqxvmU/mqdefault.jpg)
Here are all the Eastwood products used in this video:
Eastwood 1HP Dual Speed Buffer
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/1hpbuffmotor
Eastwood Buffer Stand
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/bufferstand
Eastwood Abrasive Buffing Wheel
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/scotchbritewheel
Eastwood 6” Foam Interference Sander Pad
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/interfacepad
Eastwood Small Job Buffing Kit
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/smallbuffingkit
Eastwood 2” Right Angle Orbital Sander
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/smallorbitalsander
Eastwood 10” Buff Wheel Set
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/10inbuffwheelkit
Eastwood Buffing Compound Set
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/buffingcompound
Eastwood Buff Rake
www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/buffingrake
MatthewMCRepair how much did this kit run you?
Beautiful job! I did this by hand! For my 1990 Yamaha fj1200. Looked great but not as easy as you made it look. This looks so much easier lol. Makes all the difference if you want to restore a vintage bike back to life again.
Oh man, I can't imagine doing all by hand. I was even getting sick of sanding.
Actually Mathew I give a thumbs up; great job and video. Due to personal incidents wearing gloves and rotating machinery (drills, rotary wire brush ) and several RUclips pros warning against wearing gloves; I decided to take their advice. I keep a bucket of water at the floor and dip the alloy piece which saps the heat immediately; then back to polishing , happy days .
I will try that, thanks.
with practice on alloy you don't need to go above 400... (with pink rouge used afterwards on a 6 to 8inch or above wheel) I polish for a living and what you have shown here is pretty much what we do. Great seeing how other people do things...! great video
Scotch brite wheels of different grits will give you the same finish properly used, until final polishing that will require a polish such as simichrome or autosol. Also to protect your finish from re-tarnishing from the elements , i would use a crystal clear coat spray from Eastwood products, which will not peel or yellow & is specifically used for non ferrous metals.
I always try to go high as I can with sand paper and it will cut down buffing time. Wet 2000 grit does wonders on aluminum. Nice video. Ignore all of the negative comments. I can tell you got skills bro.
Thank you!
This is by far the best explanation I've seen and the best method. I've used this method for 16 years myself to yield professional results every time. I cringe when I see people start at 120 or 180 and hand sand all the way to 2500!! Awesome video!!
i use a dremel tool with polishing bits for hard to reach areas like the bolt holes, engraved letterings, i use it to polish carbs. i'm on a budget so i do wet sanding with 400/800/1000/2000 grit, 320 grit for heavily oxidized parts, then straight to autosol polishing compound.
I need to get a dremel
Cool video, a word of caution, I would use rubber gloves when sanding aluminum and also use a respirator. I developed a sensitivity to aluminum when I was polishing bicycle parts.
Scary to say the least.
I needed to polish some aluminum parts and watched your video. It was very informative and now I know what I need to do to achieve a remarkable end product. So this video is just what the doctor ordered. What is very surprising is in reading the commits I am blown away with what appears to be some of the viewers who seem to be jealous and resentful that you may have received a generous offering from Eastwood. Who cares how you acquired your equipment, provided you didn't steal it. When one becomes envious and resentful over someone else and what others have, that is a condition as bad as cancer or some other disease
Well said, thank you. I can't please everyone I guess.
There will always be haters. I see I wrote "commits" instead of "comment". Oh well. I already had some inexpensive things from Harbor Freight, so my equipment wasn't professional grade but the result was a lot better than I was expecting.
I dont understand the stupid comments . I am working doing the same work on my bike, actually the same part and a bunch of others. Great instructional video. Thanks for a video well done.
Great video 👍👍. I just bought this setup for my shop. I do restorations on cars and motorcycles. This is going to save me money to pay my polishing guy every time I need something done. Thank you for sharing your way of polishing parts.
Ya have to go to the elbow grease specialty store to get the best elbow grease, rite next to the blinker fluid store
Instead of using sandbags or bolting your stand to the floor, try bolting it to a rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood. Leave an 18" - 24" "tongue" in front of the stand. Then just stand on the plywood while you are buffing, your weight will hold the buffer in place. This way you can take the buffer outside of your garage and avoid flinging compound all over your walls/floors/ceilings.
Good tip, I'll try that.
Sweet gift pack. I have skipped right to buffing. No sanding. I found I was causing scratches sanding. If the piece isn’t, trashed, it works nicely.
I,ve done some metal polishing at a place I use to work at. once the chrome and nickel been strip . I looked for scratches and nicks from the rust and how deep. then I look at the thickness off the metal I,m going to polish for rechroming. I agree with you on explaining the surface. when I explain it to the the person who own the car bumper. it went over his head.but he was happy it was in the right hands .before I started polishing years before. a polisher explain on how its done. but I also taught myself. like how many stages I,m going to do. just like you explain it. I,m a short guy which I polish a massive 68 impala bumper here in new zealand. it came out like factory. but better. pitty the chrome platers never had a cooper bath.[ 3 stage plating ]. stainless steal is the hardess metal to polish . great vid mate .awesome on explaining stages
Sanding grit = Start at the finest grit you think you will use, then go progressively coarser until you arrive at the grit you need to remove the defects in the part.
Stay gold.
Got myself a pile of metal sandpaper and tubes of alloy cleaner and now i need some pain killers for my arthritis and all ready to clean all the Bultaco engines.Been a year now and kept putting it off hoping to find a old 1980 buffer wheel they last forever
I usualy wear a tie while doing this .....
jcreswick A bow tie, I presume?
What's the difference between Polish aluminium and aluminium from any other country?
Hahahaha that´s a good one!
Da dum chhh
Good ;)
CloneDaddy the Polish aluminum is a lot less bright!!
@@XXX-qk2cq; I just found it kind of cheap; in a quirky kind of way.
Good video for those who have never done it. WOW 50% have valid comments and constructive critisisum and the other 50% think with their little head! Always amazes me when someone such as yourself takes the time to do a video, regardless of what it is and "Little Heads" trash it to bits. If they are such experts, then they should get off their Gluteus maximus and make a video. Then and only then will they truly understand the complexity of filming, editing and answering follow-up comments.
True that!
Great video, very informative, but… I find one thing missing and that’s the final step. What do you use to protect the polished aluminum?
I was going to ask the same; I have polished aluminum parts in the past and they've oxidized back to a matt finish in a matter of weeks. I'm assuming some sort of clear coat (2K for preference) would be needed.
Ignore all the dislikes and haters, you're making great videos man. Loved the intro hahaha, you forgot to add the link for that special elbow grease you used.
Thanks. For the elbow grease, just go to any hardware store and ask for it :)
I need to do this on my BSA motorcycle I’m restoring, going to take allot of time and money. Allot of components, rocker covers, timing cover and primary cover etc. Would rather do it myself though and wouldn’t trust anyone else to do it. Thanks for the video!
The polish look is nice but I really like the way the scotch bright wheel finish looks
Yes, I agree.
I I have no idea how to do this and thanks to your video I’ve got a good head start. I could not find 2 inch sanding pads for my DA sander like you have and Eastwood have these supplies as well as all the buffing materials so I’m using your video as a primer to polishing practically the same parts seen in your video. Big thanks...i subscribed. I am looking for a buffer, found one on northern tool....staying away from HF junk. Thanks again for the great instruction!
I cut the 2" discs from 5/6" discs with scissors.
Very nice. Restoring a 74 H1 and will use your instructions and suggestions. Thanks
Good info on the polishing buddy. Try Steelo soap pads after the sand paper stages and before polishing.
I have mixed feelings about Scotch Brite pads with aluminum parts. Yes, they quickly take the part from, say a vapor-blasted finish to a first-level polishing but it will be uneven and even the extra fine pads chew into aluminum and you end up using sandpaper anyway to remove that damage. And they are expensive. Plan on at least one pad ($5) per engine case. Now, I go from vapor (or sand) basting to 600 grit sandpaper (wet) (400 for sandblasting) followed by 1200. Sanding is the only way to get a defect-free finish that is ready for buffing and a high-quality finish.
love the elbow grease part haha
I do polishing I sand 180,320,600 buff with the brown bar first then I go green bar after I go white bar for show finish
Man this some quality lecture. You just earn one sub..
I did this for a living once a few years ago. Its a hard, time consuming job. I did 500 motorcycle triple trees in one month.
How much did you make doing it?
@@mikehunt783 probably not enough. I have a hard enough time doing my parts, I cant imagine doing other peoples. Though, triple trees are many mostly flat surfaces so not as bad as primary covers or other parts with many edges of various sizes. Those I think i would just blast them and then paint. I polished/repaired fogged headlights (plastic ones) and that was ~30 minutes per light with 8 grits and only made $22.50 per car. NOT ENOUGH to do that crap in the cold or heat of the outdoors. Sure as heck wouldnt do metal which can take all dang day for one silly part. Who want to pay $200 in labor for1 complex engine part or 2 covers? @ Jeff, dude, your a better man than me. No way. I would rather go weld stuff...
hold up, awesome that you did that. No has ever parodied the joke. Eastwood..... make a tv show, compete in events. Something gwad damn...!
not sure if it has been mentioned in the comments, but you should pre-break your sand paper, it will conform to the curves much easier when you use the backer.
Pre break your sand paper....??
Bravo, super precious work , good video, respect from old BG!
Outstanding tutorial... outstanding
Wow! my bike brother is another scale !!! I expected polishing with Dremel .... Thumb !
Is the elbow grease near the blinker fluid at AutoZone?
Do you seal the part with a laquer or something similar for the shine to last ?
Fantastic. I live on a Greek island. Any manual tips?
Love the 'elbow grease'. Pretty funny.
Absolutely excellent training video!
Nice video dude, although long, but hey it gave a good description of what I have to do with some of my covers on my kz1300😎🏍👍
Hey man great video. Do you think it's possible to polish a Honda Accord engine while in the car? As in getting polished what would be seen?.
Possibly, however it would not be a quality job. Also, you are going to sling compound everywhere.
hi!could you please tell us how much was price for all(machine and pads)?
Bravo..From India
Thank you for showing us how to do this. The video was very helpful.
Your welcome!
Hi, I know this was about polishing the aluminum part and advertising Eastwood products but otherwise it would of been better yo use your vapor blaster first?, Great show!
How long lasting is this please? tell me
Great video. Lots of time and labor,but well worth it.
at 8,18 I see a lot of flaking clear coat and the dark spiderwebbing where the gaps in the clear coat have been oxidizing deep down into the metal. get the clear coat off first with aircraft aluminum paint remover, still available at NAPA. If you don't it will foul your scotch bright pads and or sandpaper. Wetsanding is better than dry. Aluminum you dry polish becomes a breathable dust. Wetsanding means less of it fouling up the sandpaper. put some rubber gloves on. Keep aluminum out of your body. I'm a believer too in ending with really fine sandpaper. 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 grit, and I even have some 3000 grit sandpaper. When maintenance polishing bare aluminum parts you can quickly get stuff off with 3000 grit and then go to the mothers and or buffers. It's a pain to keep up bare aluminum but I can not find an over the counter clear coat that doesn't have a little yellowish tint to aluminum parts.
must be nice to have them give you so much stuff.
The best way to avoid scratches is to spray paint it between sanding grits this shows you where you have not sanded and thus you get the hole job
Or guide coat. Good tip.
How you like the way those new buffing wheels from Eastwood chunk and throw fibers EVERYWHERE!
Pretty much how any buffing goes.
Very much enjoyed learning along with you. I've gotten pretty clean parts by wet sanding and polishing with drill, but you showed you need the buffer wheel to do a professional job. Question, does the compound get all overt your mask, clothes, walls, ceiling, etc. etc.?
Yes, it gets all over the place. Best to do it outside.
wear a mask.use an apron.
Very informative as usual Matt, thank you and keep em coming they’re very helpful
with your vapor blaster how much time would that save you? What steps would you be able to bypass?
Haven't tried it however it would save a ton of time.
@@HTMR might a future video to revisit this topic with the use of a vapor blaster
Hi Matthew. I'm all for wearing safety equipment. But you may want to do a little research on the dangers of wearing gloves when using large spinning machinery, (like your new buffing machine). Gloves are more likely to get gripped by the machine than your fingers.
I see your point. You read both gloves and no gloves on the internet. I will say that the parts do get hot, and oil from your hands can ruin finish. Gloves prevent both of these issues.
When gloves get sucked into the machine, the gloves drag your whole hand and possibly arm with them.
With no gloves, you nick your flesh and and pull away at the pain and sensation.
World of difference.
Have done enough training and work in industry to know :
No gloves.
Greg Thornton there is not one guy working in a polishing plant, doing it 8 hours per day that doesn’t wear heavy gauntlet style gloves, a heavy apron, and a heavy long sleeve shirt. These aren’t wire wheels, they are cotton. Go to a chrome or polishing shop and check it out. I have and it’s true. Holding metal with sharp edges while it gets hot from the polishing isn’t done without gloves and would be dangerous. Check OSHA regs on it. Sorry....
MatthewMCRepair you are correct about wearing gloves, it is a must. The metal it sharp, hot and slippery. The gloves protect and give a much better grip. Any pro polisher wears gloves and other protective clothing.
SixSixSix there is no machine to get sucked into here guys, this is not a thresher or wood chipper. This is an open wheel, soft cotton, closed edge with no surrounding metal or cabinet. If this was a wire wheel completely different, but it’s not. Also the polishing wheel spins much much slower then a wire wheel or grinding wheel. The motors are a lot less powerful and spin at a much slow speed. Many of them can be stopped by leaning the part heavily against them. Have any of you guy ever worked with one of these machines?? It sounds like you haven’t.
Would vapor honing first have made a difference?
Absolutely. This video was before I built my DIY vapor blaster: howtomotorcyclerepair.com/diyvaporblasterbuildplans/
that piece still has somewhat of a "haze" to it. Do you think you might have eliminated that by taking up to a higher grit when sanding to like 1000 or 1500 before you started using on the buffer? just asking
Yes. Or it could have compound left on.
How did you deal with the recessed areas around HONDA and the circular trench around the cover...thanks
Push part into wheel, it was able to reach it.
I have a Honda z50 headlight won’t work can you help
Great Video, just had a look at some of your other video's and Subscribed.... Impressive
Thanks!
You draw real purty! Do you think they would send me all that stuff at little to no charge? If not then this can't help most of us. We will just have to get Harbor Freight buffing wheels on the grinder. Thanks for the good ideas.
Nicely done. You’ve inspired me to step up my game!!
Enjoyed the video - keep up the good work!
Great stuff! That small orbital sander in particular looks like a huge timesaver for a really low price.
Bert, yes used it quite a bit on the other 2 covers I had to polish.
Thanks for the video. However, the bikes never came out of the factory with that mirror finish, so my aim is to take a dirty old engine and get it back the 'clean matt' finish like it comes from the factory, rather than to create a mirror on wheels. Do you have any advice to get it back to the factory look? Or is it as simple as skipping the last few polishing steps? Many thanks
Check this video out, build your own vapor blaster: ruclips.net/video/pJiNfUYFAXw/видео.html
orbital sander with cotton cover and gumption house hold cleaner not to much elbow grease..
Looks awesome! Just a heads up Honda clear coats the covers when they make them you can use paint stripper to remove it like the guy in the video about restoring aluminum wheels. The clear coat is why they look so nasty after sitting outside in the sun for many years.
There might have been some clear on the covers, but most of it was long gone.
MatthewMCRepair true but the stripper also helps remove some of the oxidation.
I'll try that for the next engine LOL.
Nice video. I have the same Eastwood setup and am trying to learn how to use it properly. Is there anything you can use to coat the aluminum after it is polished to prevent it from oxidizing again?
Good video
Also. How do you preserve the shine?
Is there something you can
do to prevent oxidation.
Simichrome polish or acf-50
Cerakote Ceramic Clears air-cure is an option. Understood to be superior to traditional clear but I have not used it myself or seen the results over time.Initial results are impressive however.
Aluminum specific product btw
Does anybody know how to seal it after, with a clear coat or something? I just finished doing all the covers on my Honda and don't want them to go bad again. Thanks!
uhh, use a clear coat... not to sound like a jerk, but you already had the answer. go to an autobody shop and ask them what they use on aluminum parts and purchase some. Could also hit up a chrome shop, they might not have some on hand but will give you tons of advice on what to use on your parts based on what conditions they will be exposed to. I don't want to give you a LONGGGGGG answer as to the whys with background info as there are too many az-hats who cant read more than 4 words without complaining. BUT, for spokes and rims and cool covers, I use a standard metal clear-coat with several THIN coats left to cure after each spray.(follow manu's instructions.) For the hot parts, or parts that will flex from pressure, I will ALWAYS consult the experts doing that work for a profession as they always know the best product for that condition at that time. What I used 3 years ago is already outdated today as there are several more newer products. Since this video will be up for a long time, i wouldn't take a recommendation from here. Hit up the shops... OR ... just wash and wax on a regular basis. that works too.
Wow that's an impressive final product. I almost doubt it was that shiny delivered from Honda 40 years ago.
Definitely don't come polished from the factory. Vapor blast matte finish is more of a factory finish. I'll go over that in the next video.
Hey Matthew - ignore the trolls! I have a couple of questions, as a complete novice: (1) do you need a 1HP motor, or would a 1/2 HP motor be sufficiently powerful? I can get a 1/2HP kit for a good price, which is why I ask, but a professional polisher I've used in the past once told me you do need plenty of power - what d'you reckon about 370 Watts / 1/2HP?
The other question is simply, what is a DA? Maybe it's an American term, like hood instead of bonnet or gas instead of petrol, so could you please explain what it is? Cheers, John (I don;t see any reason for anyone to complain about the video, by the way - it was helpful to me!)
1/2 should work. Problem is that it will take longer (less power) and also reach/access will be less (smaller wheels and shorter shaft).
DA = Dual Action
NICE JOB
Maybe the circular, finer grit sandpaper discs would work much better on the sander instead of using by hand.
You should have braised aluminum into those scratches you wouldn't have had to sand so much also you should have shot it with gloss black paint first we're all of the wording and indents werethat way you have a nice black background or whatever color
Another great video.
Elbow grease is that in the same section as blinker fluid
Dont forget the 'Jet wash and wooden welding rods'
Mothers aluminum mag polish works amazing and all you really need is a paper towel....
Maybe to maintain what I have.
@@HTMR Stuff works great! Especially with a buffing wheel. I polished the internals of a Cz SP-01 with it and a dremel with a felt wheel. Worked great, didnt take long at all.
😂 yoooooo that intro 😂 😝 i was gonna turn it off jeez 😂
Clean... Eastwood products !
good job. go up the sanding ladder a little higher and try not to sand too much in the area of the logo. i find rouge good enough unless you're entering a show, mainly due to the fact that it most likely be dusty and dirty 10 min into your first ride.
Yeah I should have gone finer on sandpaper. Just handling the parts make them dirty haha. Good enough for this bike.
I did my Yamaha side covers by hand they looked great.
I wouldn't wear gloves or long sleeves while running that buffer... tear your arm right off
Gloves and tight clothing are recommended. The part gets hot, and I wore a tshirt and compound was all over my arm.
Can afford the elbow grease but not those expensive tools,buffer and eastwood products. Dull grey will have to do.
Would love very to watch till the end but OMG all the adds!!
Pretty easy to polish aluminum, just buy $10K worth of tools. I’ll add, nice video and those are some beautiful tools, I’m now on their website haha
THATS LIKE $1000 WORTH OF PARTS
Why are people saying how expensive machines like this cost? I picked up 2 preowned bench grinders for £20 and just bought the polishing mops and compounds. Just don't go to Eastwood, they are too pricey unless you get given the products.
Wish had a few of them to help clean the Bultaco engines as have 3 to do but no way could afford price so will just rub with chrome cleaner or try making some or could i have yours if you have finished with them as have a stone bench and will fit mine i think
Unfortunately Eastwood Website does not operate properly.... try to order chasis black satin spray paint.... you'll see what I mean.
looks very nice
Can you do a vid on polishing aluminium?
Why don't you just fast forward a little bit.
Try vapour blasting (water) or dry ice blasting and then polish. Mush faster. Pricier investment but you can clean up those covers/case covers in 2-3 minutes and then move on to polish.
Cases and some other components came back from vapor blasting. Posting vid soon.
Can't wait to watch! Saves you alot of time in my experience. Allows you to focus on other things then spending an hour hand sanding case covers.
I'm starting to learn that lol.
I like your style!
Cool you’re getting some free stuff for once!! Fuck the haters man
So now you need to coat it with clear, correct?
I will add a coat of simichrome polish for protection.
so the real question, is now how do you keep like this without buffing it every day you get a drop of rain! :)
Ten inch wheels,We only run small tire here! thats real drag racing!