I’ve been searching for a overhead view of the distributor cap, with the plugs in. You gave me that, and with the spark plugs labeled!!! Thanks man, made my life a whole lot easier.
I use a rubber hose to start the spark plugs during the install. It prevents cross threads and it is easier to install compared to starting it with the socket and extension. It isn't a new tip but I didn't see it in the comment section so I felt that it was worth the mention. Good stuff Brian! :)
No. That “bang” between R&D is normal. I just had mine rebuilt, and it does the same thing. Twister confirmed it. If you pay attention during the scene where Jo runs to save Dorothy, you can hear the “clunks” as Bill switches from R to P.
Same firing order as the older Chevrolets from the 60's -70's like 350 -454 CI... I have a 96 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2 so same engine minus the cubes-- Yeah that cap is down there with not much room, I have a correct length extension and phillips bit, just did mine last week, plugs, PCV, air filter, cap and rotor and yes the always neglected gas filter. Just installed the 4 hole Bosch injectors that I got on ebay, 70.00 for all 8- took me under 2 hours, removed both fuel rails with that transfer hose in the rear connected, just needed to be careful when 1st reinstalling the fuel rails to get them started easy, need to coat the O rings with grease, a worthwhile upgrade
I did this in my 1998 5.9 Ram last year. One of the things that surprised me was the insistence in the dealers manual about exact wire routing. To my surprise, they explained that the central wire should run medial to the rocker cover, which is opposite to the way mine was running (and yours, too). So I changed mine so that the wire runs according to the manual. I don't know if that makes any difference but I suspect they may have had some issues with wires running too close together, lateral to the rockers.
I wasn't aware of this. I looked into it. There was probably an engine fire or danger of one. If the valve cover is leaking and the wire sags and the oil compromises the wire- a fire could ensue. It's not likely, but it could be a really bad thing. The same applies to the Cyl. 5 & 7 situation on the drivers side.
"Spark knock" sounds much better than fire hazard. I would consider using that term too. Legally as a car manufacturer there's less liability with "spark knock" because once they say "fire hazard" that acknowledges they knew about the problem and are then liable to do something about it or face the legal consequences. Back in when the TSB was issued Daimler Chrysler was in the red financially and couldn't do anything about a fire hazard recall. Good move! Now, WHY would you route the wire over the center of the valve cover (THE farthest distance from the oil leak probable area) to avoid spark knock? The top of the cover isn't cooler or less likely to make contact. Gravity pulls straight down doesn't it? The engine vibrates and torque rolls side to side as you think about chaffing doesn't it? Why would that routing be better to prevent spark knock? Oil is the missing element. There are recalls and there are WAY MORE TSB's for fire hazard with adamant strong warnings and language for fire hazard due to insane manufacture liability than there are for a simple/annoying ignition misfire. Just a thought. When the argument is about what a publication says, be thinking about who wrote it, why they wrote it that way, and who benefits from the language that was used. Thanks for sharing the info. I'm just irked about something else and went off. Once I did, I thought it might prove educational or whatever. Critical thinking never hurt (outside of a headache... ; ) You're awesome!
***** Yes, that's the one I had, thanks for posting it here. Notice in figure #1 the central coil wire runs medial to the passenger side rocker cover, in contrast to what I think was the normal routing out of the factory. I assumed it was because when wires run close together they can pick up inductive signals from each other (from the magnetic field induced by changing current in one wire). Since the central wire is the one with current at every ignition, that one would logically be placed away from the others. I didn't think about fire, though recently I replaced my rocker cover gaskets because of an oil leak, as Brian points out.
Is there any special procedure. I know about disconnecting neg battery. But what about rotor aling ment won't rotor move as u remove distributor cap. Thanks great vid.
loren parks on magnum V8s the rotor has a key it slides onto. Also, ignition distribution and timing is computer controlled, so there’s really no futzing with that unless you COMPLETELY remove the whole distributor as an assembly, which at that point you’re not really messing with timing as you are ensuring cyl 1 at TDC with cyl 1 terminal is pointing to cyl 1.
my dad came up with a saying about the older chrysler small block and big block engines. . chrysler put the small block distributor in WRONG place in the back but the shaft turns the Right way clockwise. and in the BIG block they put the distributor in the RIGHT place in the FRONT but the shaft turns the WRONG way COUNTER CLOCKWISE. and on both number 5 is allways before no 7. cap and block. this saying helps you get the wiring right
Hey buddy is because you got water inside of those spark plugs you happen to me and my touch Dakota 98 I went off-roading appreciate clean the engine didn't want to start up
I've been wanting to change my distributor cap but it's so far in the back I just said hell with it same thing with the oil pressure sensor I could not find that thing I know it's back there somewhere my gauge will always drop down to zero but I know it's not really losing oil pressure or else my truck would have blown up a long time ago it has to be the sensor my point is I hate how Dodge did that the rest of the truck is great to work on you can basically sit right down in there as long as you don't have to get in the back somewhere
I did all this last month 3 plugs were not turnable with a regular socket I had to go to my actual mechanic and use his GROUND DOWN spark plug socket. The heat shields were corroded with rust inside. Also, I had to have him remove the last plug because I absolutely could not get it. He broke it off in the engine and had to easy-out it. Removing the plugs on the Rams with the heat shields is not as easy as bam bam. ground down socket and a bit for drilling holes might come in handy. I read in a forum you can yank the shields out, but yeah right, we tried that and nothing happened but messing up the shield.
Great video, Have you thought about shooting any video of the topside creeper? It looks like a great tool to use instead of lying on top of the engine.
I did a whole review video of it. I would post a link here, but my "video manager" got taken away by interns at Google. Let me take 10 minutes and search it out and get distracted by other stuff.... here it is.→ Topside Creeper Tool Review- Traxion Foldable There's also a link and best price I found in the description.
I have a 99 dodge ram 5.9 usually when it comes to it throwing codes like that its time to switch to acdelco cap, wires and plugs. that will solve all issues with that. got mine with 80k miles I'm at 335,465 miles and still strong as shit
Hey Bro when you open a hood and you see ignition wire's that are obviously that elderly it's time to just break down and buy NEW quality wire's NOT auto-zone BS wire's either . The Hands Down Best plug wire's you can buy Bar none are Granitelli Racing Zero Ohm spark plug wire's They are a NO Spark loss plug wire that will deliver exactly what your coil produces ..Yes they are a bit pricy but you get what you pay for ... I'm telling you they are insane .. I Ohm ed out and compared they with Accel 300 race wire MSD TAYLOR and the only one's that come close are the Jacobs Race wires ...And Bro with a truck with that many mile's I'm going to suggest you check the U joint 's for excessive wear the Carrier bearing if so equipped because with 4 wheel drive you do have a few of them joints to check but replacement U joints are often equipped with a grease fitting so if you don't see any I'm pretty sure your looking at Factory Joints In fact I'm sure if your saying it's behind on it's Maintenance it's most likely an understatement ... Good luck ...remember when trucks get up in the miles like your's they do give you back in performance exactly what you gave them ... NO Maintenance NO performance .. See ya ..And remember to buy Dielectric grease and use it liberally in both ends of the plug wires boots the grease keeps out moister and is a great conductor ..
Dont see the point of having fuel inyection and a ignition driven by a distrib. Is that common ?. I though that computer module did both inyection and ignition.
If they do decide to spend a penny on the truck you probably will want to do those battery terminals as well, they look pretty crusty...... You probably will find the transmission fluid is pretty burnt as well, and the suspension is loose along with the drivetrain and cracking engine and suspension rubbers.
I have a 5.2 in a 96 GC and have ran both Champion and Autolite- I just installed the Bosch 4 hole injectors and it does run smoother, did that same time as complete tune, 147,000 miles and runs like new
I have a bad plenum. the dreaded. done everything possibly to this old thing. due to the plenum intake being shot I was getting a impossible to find the misfire mainly cylinder 1. cylinder 8 started much later. due to the gasket being screwed... caused the truck to run SUPER rich. Also, when starting cold lately its do this weird gasping for breath kinda thing. run super rich you it hardcore. and trys to choke out and die. sometimes it will. NOT THE IAC lol
Are you sure it's the plenum gasket? In my experience the biggest symptom had been severe pinging under load, spark knock at idle, and oil usage. Maybe yours is much more severe than mine was.
I think its the plenum. I had spark knock but I added oil and that went away. Compression is 130 across the block. Fuel pressure is 60psi steady. Vacuum guage points to intake gasket according the haynes manuel for my 99 ram. Ive replaced both o2 sensors, cat. Exhaust manifold gaskets lol. Oil pressure is fine. Trans rebuilt. New suspension. Ive dont it all. It makes sense to me that its intake. Unstable vacuum. Cold start its trys to choke out and runs super rich. Sounds like an asthma attack. Not iac. Computer is fine. No circuit problems. Took to mechanic shop. (Not fond of shops...) took them all day to figure it out. They said plenum gasket. Does this sound like something different? I get about maybe 8mpg.
Its low on power. I have to build up to speed off the light. Very much like a low vacuum situation. (Im no mechanic ) incase I sounds like I know everything lol. The engine will rev harder them it moved lol. Im about ready to part the pos out
Richard Cowtails Sounds like the most severely blown plenum I've ever seen honestly. Zero manifold vacuum is going to have that problem. Mine still got 14 mpg with a blown gasket, it just ran like shit and would "kick" from random misfires with the converter locked. Just install a Hughes plenum kit, if you've done all of that you have the ability to install it, too.
Thank god lol. Misfires too forgot. Mainly cyl 1 but started on 8 too recently. Intake vacuum was like 14 - 17 steady needle but back and fourth. Everything the needle moved the truck was acting up shaking. If the vacuum jumps around has to vacuum related lol. The plenum is the only thing I can think of. Bad Intake can cause lower compression, shake, misfires, poor mpg, feeling of you hate your damn truck lol
Hey Brian, have a problem here. I have a 98 Dodge Ram 5.9L Gas and its running rough at idle and has loss of power. No codes popping up. Replace the plenum gasket and pre-cat 02 sensor with a denso. Cat isn't plugged, ran without 02 sensor, same problem. Cap and rotor are good. Any ideas on what this could be?
Alexander Bonnevie my 5.2 ram was doing the same thing to the point of it dieing after startup and when shifting from park. Today i replaced the idle air valve and it straightened it up. Its runnin just fine now. It was less than 50 bucks
Whoa whoa... I would never say it's worth it to buy new plugs and wires BEFORE doing a compression test on a truck with 240,000 miles. If they've not bothered to get new plugs or wires in way too long then I'd say it's almost 100% likely they've never changed any fluids (steering, brake, transmission, differentials), who knows how long it's been since it's seen fresh oil and a filter, air filter etc. I would highly recommend doing a compression test on at least an easy to find cylinder just to see if it was decent, and if not then tell them hey there might be some more serious things going on, do you even want to bother doing regular maintenance at this point. I unfortunately had to change a head gasket only to find that the reason there was a compression leak in two of the cylinders wasn't JUST from a blown head gasket from severe lack of maintenance (oil changed every 15,000 miles or so, water was seeping into the oil), but the pistons had scored the cylinders so bad that even with a new gasket only two cylinders had any compression anyways. It's always easiest in my mind to run a few tests before digging in too deep.
My 1999 Durango which I'm trading for a 95 Ranger has a Bang Between R, P, and OD (in between any of those) too... Never though anything of it as it works fine otherwise... no shudders or anything.
Brian I love your videos man. Really great learning about engines. I have a question about my car (Mazda 3 2008 2.3l). I have no check engine light, but on coldstarts it "sometimes" loses all RPM and stalls. I have to keep the throttle open just to get it going. Again no check engine light, but maybe you have seen this before on this car model? Thanks!
Great example of poor, I mean, no maintenance. I have never seen a cap, rotor, and plugs that bad on a vehicle that actually got driven in to a repair shop. Looks like they were there from day one.
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I’ve been searching for a overhead view of the distributor cap, with the plugs in. You gave me that, and with the spark plugs labeled!!! Thanks man, made my life a whole lot easier.
I use a rubber hose to start the spark plugs during the install. It prevents cross threads and it is easier to install compared to starting it with the socket and extension. It isn't a new tip but I didn't see it in the comment section so I felt that it was worth the mention. Good stuff Brian! :)
How do you use a rubber hose?
No. That “bang” between R&D is normal. I just had mine rebuilt, and it does the same thing. Twister confirmed it. If you pay attention during the scene where Jo runs to save Dorothy, you can hear the “clunks” as Bill switches from R to P.
the wires on magnum motors have to be routed according to the book. or youll get crossfire between them. my 5.9 did this with brand new wires.
"96 you pretty much have to have something fall off the truck for the light to come on" lol
Nice 👍 just what I need it ,jut got a 1997 Dodge Ram 5.9 L 309000 on the board lol 😂 and running strong 💪
Just got one too haha but i was lucky to find one with just 168
fantastic video, doing this tomorrow to my dads truck that doesn't like starting in the damp weather, such as damp snow. thanks Canada.
Same firing order as the older Chevrolets from the 60's -70's like 350 -454 CI... I have a 96 Grand Cherokee with the 5.2 so same engine minus the cubes-- Yeah that cap is down there with not much room, I have a correct length extension and phillips bit, just did mine last week, plugs, PCV, air filter, cap and rotor and yes the always neglected gas filter.
Just installed the 4 hole Bosch injectors that I got on ebay, 70.00 for all 8- took me under 2 hours, removed both fuel rails with that transfer hose in the rear connected, just needed to be careful when 1st reinstalling the fuel rails to get them started easy, need to coat the O rings with grease, a worthwhile upgrade
topside creeper....cool
"Shoulds aren't worth shit"
Love it XD
I did this in my 1998 5.9 Ram last year. One of the things that surprised me was the insistence in the dealers manual about exact wire routing. To my surprise, they explained that the central wire should run medial to the rocker cover, which is opposite to the way mine was running (and yours, too). So I changed mine so that the wire runs according to the manual. I don't know if that makes any difference but I suspect they may have had some issues with wires running too close together, lateral to the rockers.
I wasn't aware of this. I looked into it. There was probably an engine fire or danger of one. If the valve cover is leaking and the wire sags and the oil compromises the wire- a fire could ensue. It's not likely, but it could be a really bad thing. The same applies to the Cyl. 5 & 7 situation on the drivers side.
"Spark knock" sounds much better than fire hazard. I would consider using that term too. Legally as a car manufacturer there's less liability with "spark knock" because once they say "fire hazard" that acknowledges they knew about the problem and are then liable to do something about it or face the legal consequences. Back in when the TSB was issued Daimler Chrysler was in the red financially and couldn't do anything about a fire hazard recall. Good move! Now, WHY would you route the wire over the center of the valve cover (THE farthest distance from the oil leak probable area) to avoid spark knock? The top of the cover isn't cooler or less likely to make contact. Gravity pulls straight down doesn't it? The engine vibrates and torque rolls side to side as you think about chaffing doesn't it? Why would that routing be better to prevent spark knock? Oil is the missing element. There are recalls and there are WAY MORE TSB's for fire hazard with adamant strong warnings and language for fire hazard due to insane manufacture liability than there are for a simple/annoying ignition misfire. Just a thought. When the argument is about what a publication says, be thinking about who wrote it, why they wrote it that way, and who benefits from the language that was used. Thanks for sharing the info. I'm just irked about something else and went off. Once I did, I thought it might prove educational or whatever. Critical thinking never hurt (outside of a headache... ; ) You're awesome!
***** Yes, that's the one I had, thanks for posting it here. Notice in figure #1 the central coil wire runs medial to the passenger side rocker cover, in contrast to what I think was the normal routing out of the factory. I assumed it was because when wires run close together they can pick up inductive signals from each other (from the magnetic field induced by changing current in one wire). Since the central wire is the one with current at every ignition, that one would logically be placed away from the others. I didn't think about fire, though recently I replaced my rocker cover gaskets because of an oil leak, as Brian points out.
*****
Thanks again for sharing that here. That's awesome!
Results Brian!! Wanna see how it runs after.
I'm use to a slant 6 in my 1968 Plymouth belvedere 2dr club coupe....sooooo much easier to work on then my 98 dodge 5.9 v8 in the b2500 van!!!!
Lol dang. Haven't seen a distributor cap like that before lol. Thanks for the advice, gotta do an ignition tune up on my 97 5.9
Is there any special procedure. I know about disconnecting neg battery. But what about rotor aling ment won't rotor move as u remove distributor cap. Thanks great vid.
loren parks on magnum V8s the rotor has a key it slides onto. Also, ignition distribution and timing is computer controlled, so there’s really no futzing with that unless you COMPLETELY remove the whole distributor as an assembly, which at that point you’re not really messing with timing as you are ensuring cyl 1 at TDC with cyl 1 terminal is pointing to cyl 1.
my dad came up with a saying about the older chrysler small block and big block engines. . chrysler put the small block distributor in WRONG place in the back but the shaft turns the Right way clockwise. and in the BIG block they put the distributor in the RIGHT place in the FRONT but the shaft turns the WRONG way COUNTER CLOCKWISE. and on both number 5 is allways before no 7. cap and block. this saying helps you get the wiring right
Moe Shouse à
You just convinced me to take it to the shop and let them handle it.
Poor truck. Finally got the love it needed :)
Hey buddy is because you got water inside of those spark plugs you happen to me and my touch Dakota 98 I went off-roading appreciate clean the engine didn't want to start up
Mis fire may be the intake manifold gasket.
Over time it breaks and sucks oil into the cylinder
I've been wanting to change my distributor cap but it's so far in the back I just said hell with it same thing with the oil pressure sensor I could not find that thing I know it's back there somewhere my gauge will always drop down to zero but I know it's not really losing oil pressure or else my truck would have blown up a long time ago it has to be the sensor my point is I hate how Dodge did that the rest of the truck is great to work on you can basically sit right down in there as long as you don't have to get in the back somewhere
Check the vss on the trans, and replace crankshaft sensor. The will have you chasing ghost otherwise
Great explanations & diagrams
Excellent info again Brian, thanks.
How did you take your spark plug heat shield out or did that socket fit right in?
Also replace the distributor pickup under the rotor!!!
I did all this last month 3 plugs were not turnable with a regular socket I had to go to my actual mechanic and use his GROUND DOWN spark plug socket. The heat shields were corroded with rust inside. Also, I had to have him remove the last plug because I absolutely could not get it. He broke it off in the engine and had to easy-out it. Removing the plugs on the Rams with the heat shields is not as easy as bam bam. ground down socket and a bit for drilling holes might come in handy. I read in a forum you can yank the shields out, but yeah right, we tried that and nothing happened but messing up the shield.
Good video , Very informative easy troubleshooting good job
Great video, Have you thought about shooting any video of the topside creeper?
It looks like a great tool to use instead of lying on top of the engine.
I did a whole review video of it. I would post a link here, but my "video manager" got taken away by interns at Google. Let me take 10 minutes and search it out and get distracted by other stuff.... here it is.→ Topside Creeper Tool Review- Traxion Foldable There's also a link and best price I found in the description.
Thanks for sharing the review. I must have missed it somehow. Thanks for sharing these great quality videos.
I find it easiest to cap and rotor but impossible to install with wires on. cause i have to feel the screws in the rotor. then wires.
Wow,I don't know if I've ever seen plugs that bad before. The terminals in the cap were hosed. (Aside from all the burn marks/carbon tracks)
and the shimmy at 45mph could be death wobble. front end parts for this truck are cheap. easy to work on with a big book value.
Not those f&#@$! Riveted ball joints!
Should's aren't worth shit well double check the checker is what I say. Good informative video for the off road mudding folks
I have a 99 dodge ram 5.9 usually when it comes to it throwing codes like that its time to switch to acdelco cap, wires and plugs. that will solve all issues with that. got mine with 80k miles I'm at 335,465 miles and still strong as shit
Sweet
Hey Bro when you open a hood and you see ignition wire's that are obviously that elderly it's time to just break down and buy NEW quality wire's NOT auto-zone BS wire's either . The Hands Down Best plug wire's you can buy Bar none are Granitelli Racing Zero Ohm spark plug wire's They are a NO Spark loss plug wire that will deliver exactly what your coil produces ..Yes they are a bit pricy but you get what you pay for ... I'm telling you they are insane .. I Ohm ed out and compared they with Accel 300 race wire MSD TAYLOR and the only one's that come close are the Jacobs Race wires ...And Bro with a truck with that many mile's I'm going to suggest you check the U joint 's for excessive wear the Carrier bearing if so equipped because with 4 wheel drive you do have a few of them joints to check but replacement U joints are often equipped with a grease fitting so if you don't see any I'm pretty sure your looking at Factory Joints In fact I'm sure if your saying it's behind on it's Maintenance it's most likely an understatement ... Good luck ...remember when trucks get up in the miles like your's they do give you back in performance exactly what you gave them ... NO Maintenance NO performance .. See ya ..And remember to buy Dielectric grease and use it liberally in both ends of the plug wires boots the grease keeps out moister and is a great conductor ..
Dont see the point of having fuel inyection and a ignition driven by a distrib. Is that common ?. I though that computer module did both inyection and ignition.
not back in the day and this sort of motor was originally carbureted.
Great video!
If they do decide to spend a penny on the truck you probably will want to do those battery terminals as well, they look pretty crusty...... You probably will find the transmission fluid is pretty burnt as well, and the suspension is loose along with the drivetrain and cracking engine and suspension rubbers.
That might be the worst cap and rotor I have ever seen.
Yeah, I was thinking the same. This guy is doing zero maintenance.
Do the 5.9s like autolites or champions better? What about ngk's?
I have a 5.2 in a 96 GC and have ran both Champion and Autolite- I just installed the Bosch 4 hole injectors and it does run smoother, did that same time as complete tune, 147,000 miles and runs like new
shudder in reverse is the rear axle pinion....they are known to only bang in reverse and get play
I have a bad plenum. the dreaded. done everything possibly to this old thing. due to the plenum intake being shot I was getting a impossible to find the misfire mainly cylinder 1. cylinder 8 started much later. due to the gasket being screwed... caused the truck to run SUPER rich. Also, when starting cold lately its do this weird gasping for breath kinda thing. run super rich you it hardcore. and trys to choke out and die. sometimes it will. NOT THE IAC lol
Are you sure it's the plenum gasket? In my experience the biggest symptom had been severe pinging under load, spark knock at idle, and oil usage. Maybe yours is much more severe than mine was.
I think its the plenum. I had spark knock but I added oil and that went away. Compression is 130 across the block. Fuel pressure is 60psi steady. Vacuum guage points to intake gasket according the haynes manuel for my 99 ram. Ive replaced both o2 sensors, cat. Exhaust manifold gaskets lol. Oil pressure is fine. Trans rebuilt. New suspension. Ive dont it all. It makes sense to me that its intake. Unstable vacuum. Cold start its trys to choke out and runs super rich. Sounds like an asthma attack. Not iac. Computer is fine. No circuit problems. Took to mechanic shop. (Not fond of shops...) took them all day to figure it out. They said plenum gasket. Does this sound like something different? I get about maybe 8mpg.
Its low on power. I have to build up to speed off the light. Very much like a low vacuum situation. (Im no mechanic ) incase I sounds like I know everything lol. The engine will rev harder them it moved lol. Im about ready to part the pos out
Richard Cowtails Sounds like the most severely blown plenum I've ever seen honestly. Zero manifold vacuum is going to have that problem. Mine still got 14 mpg with a blown gasket, it just ran like shit and would "kick" from random misfires with the converter locked. Just install a Hughes plenum kit, if you've done all of that you have the ability to install it, too.
Thank god lol. Misfires too forgot. Mainly cyl 1 but started on 8 too recently. Intake vacuum was like 14 - 17 steady needle but back and fourth. Everything the needle moved the truck was acting up shaking. If the vacuum jumps around has to vacuum related lol. The plenum is the only thing I can think of. Bad Intake can cause lower compression, shake, misfires, poor mpg, feeling of you hate your damn truck lol
Hey Brian, have a problem here. I have a 98 Dodge Ram 5.9L Gas and its running rough at idle and has loss of power. No codes popping up. Replace the plenum gasket and pre-cat 02 sensor with a denso. Cat isn't plugged, ran without 02 sensor, same problem. Cap and rotor are good. Any ideas on what this could be?
Alexander Bonnevie my 5.2 ram was doing the same thing to the point of it dieing after startup and when shifting from park. Today i replaced the idle air valve and it straightened it up. Its runnin just fine now. It was less than 50 bucks
Great video.
Whoa whoa... I would never say it's worth it to buy new plugs and wires BEFORE doing a compression test on a truck with 240,000 miles. If they've not bothered to get new plugs or wires in way too long then I'd say it's almost 100% likely they've never changed any fluids (steering, brake, transmission, differentials), who knows how long it's been since it's seen fresh oil and a filter, air filter etc. I would highly recommend doing a compression test on at least an easy to find cylinder just to see if it was decent, and if not then tell them hey there might be some more serious things going on, do you even want to bother doing regular maintenance at this point.
I unfortunately had to change a head gasket only to find that the reason there was a compression leak in two of the cylinders wasn't JUST from a blown head gasket from severe lack of maintenance (oil changed every 15,000 miles or so, water was seeping into the oil), but the pistons had scored the cylinders so bad that even with a new gasket only two cylinders had any compression anyways. It's always easiest in my mind to run a few tests before digging in too deep.
This is exactly whats going on with mine
Well? Did the tune up solve the issues?
Yes. Of course.
- Wow your thumbnail pic looks similar to mine even though the vehicles are radically different.
Great video
My 1999 Durango which I'm trading for a 95 Ranger has a Bang Between R, P, and OD (in between any of those) too... Never though anything of it as it works fine otherwise... no shudders or anything.
It's usually a U-joint or a carrier bearing. I found out later that this truck had the trans rebuilt and a heavy duty torque converter installed.
I just do 1 wire at a time 😂
Dodge did the firing order a little screwy, lol .Its exactly the same as a small block Chevy
Brian I love your videos man. Really great learning about engines. I have a question about my car (Mazda 3 2008 2.3l). I have no check engine light, but on coldstarts it "sometimes" loses all RPM and stalls. I have to keep the throttle open just to get it going. Again no check engine light, but maybe you have seen this before on this car model? Thanks!
I used to work at the Mazda dealership in 2008. It was usually a dirty MAF that caused stalling when cold at idle.
briansmobile1 I swear I thought of everything humanly possible except that. Haha thanks so much I'll look into it!
Shoulds arent worth shit. I am taking that one :)
Same as a chevy. ....lol
Water and spark don't mix
Great example of poor, I mean, no maintenance. I have never seen a cap, rotor, and plugs that bad on a vehicle that actually got driven in to a repair shop. Looks like they were there from day one.
Bet you don’t have that dash still
true that!
Go diesel.. no spark plugs.. If it's old enough a diesel will run even without power on your battery...
. and I know Brian's Ram is running on the good juice.😊
Did the kid get in trouble for causing this? Seems like it was coming anyways.
I thought deisals don't have spark plugs
This is the 318 v8, still a gasser lol
Next video get to the point sooner you blab to long