I have exactly the same model and would actually say that it IS very sharp and clear. Certainly not up to professional standards, but surprisingly good. Way more than enough for most uses. Thanks for reminding me that there is a battery compartment! I have been using it plugged into a 5V powerbank, but an 18650 would probably come in quite hand in many situations. The only problem I have had with it was trying to get the ring at the base of the vertical loosened up so I could rotate the whole unit and horizontal support around the vertical support. Had to go to the garage and use some pretty big pliers and a vise to do that. I definitely do recommend it for any home use and think it would serve quite well in a lot of school or business situations as well as long as it is front lit will do.
@@recommendedforyou157 Just 2 pounds 10 ounces, or 1.2 Kg. Ooops, sorry I missed the 'duty'. But that weight may tell you something. If you treat it with a reasonable amount of respect it will last a long time. If you pound nails with it, it won't. As I said, it could be used in schools or labs with no trouble as long as the user is not ham fisted. Much like a normal microscope.
The ladybug shot was really cool! The claimed 260X zoom is clearly an exaggeration. On the provided (1280 X 800) monitor, it looks to be perhaps 50 or 60X max. On a 24” HD (1080) screen, you might get around 100X before losing detail. I wish these companies would list magnification accurately. As you pointed out, the magnification of this model is far more than adequate for almost any soldering work, so long as the board or other work will fit on the stage. But if you want to observe, say, microscopic life, 260X might get you close. But this and many other scopes now on the market mislead shoppers. The claimed 260X would be enough for many, say, student needs, but the actual performance would be unacceptable for those purposes. Like lumens for flashlights, you can’t trust the claims for too many of these products. There are some reputable companies that, as yet, don’t seem to lie (AmScope, Leica, and a few others for microscopes, for example) but it’s very difficult for people to know what they can trust. Great, helpful review.
To get a broader viewing area, mount the scope on the end ring below the focus ring, I run mine like that all the time. I’ve reviewed a couple of different Andonstar microscopes and I have been happy with them both.
The exact model is also sold cheaper as Tomlov DM10 , Elikliv EDM10 etc.. The only difference is the sticker and $40 less in price. * I didn't know that until after I got the AD208. Even the brown box is the same.
What are you talking about? Tomlov DM10 isn't available at the official store. It costs 150 euros at some sketchy aliexpress store, while Andonstar AD208 is 100 euros.
@@alejandroperez5368 that was a year ago. the AD208 is still $150US . It doesn't matter They're all the exact same unit with different branding stickers.
For electronic rework/soldering, you only need 10x-40x magnification... are there any USB based microscopes, true 4k/optical-zoom that you'd recommend? For example, one that can output video 1) wirelessly to a android/monitor receiver (Miracast/Wireless-HDMI) 2) Wired USB to latptop/tablet device 3) Wired HDMI Dual-lens for seeing depth.. and a large Field-of-View would also be nice. Unfortunately, the ones I've seen are very expensive, presumably because they have way too much zoom (130x-180x lens), or come with their own 10" display, or gimic features like remote-control, etc.
I have the MOYSUWE version (exactly the same, except with a crappy wireless remote which has a bad habit of skipping items in the menus - lots of trial and error to select the right line...). One thing that bugs me is the battery icon at the bottom right of the screen that constantly flashes. Anyone know why? Does it ever stop blinking? Also, anyone know what the third LED on the back (the one right next to the SD card slot) is for? (The first, red, is to indicate when the device is plugged in; the second, blue, is to indicate when the device is turned on.) Thank you!
Incase it's not obvious, you must supply your own USB charger plug. It's not included with the 'scope. I just ordered one this weekend. Can't wait for it to arrive. I've got some 0405 components to solder.
is this actually good for soldering I was considering getting one for soldering but then I saw another review that says the lack of depth perception makes it harder than a binocular scope , not sure how much an entry level binocular scope for soldering would cost or if is worth it to go the binocular route looking to do console repair and modifications as well as some arduino stuff
@@andreamitchell4758 it works for me. Stereo vision is always going to be better, and cost more. I think the only challenge I experience is the small stand space. For console repairs you'd probably struggle to position the board under the camera well enough to view areas more than 3-4 inches in from the edge of the board, unless you made your own stand, which negates the price advantage of buying this type of scope.
If you're in for the long haul and can justify the spend, a binocular scope would be a way better choice in that you can typically add polarising filters, better lighting and have more functional mounting, without having to pay twice. The age old wisdom of spend well, spend once. If you're just getting started and need to be sure you will do this a lot, then this might be an option for "testing the waters".
Not sure what you are working with with a pitch that tight but I have managed to hand solder with an iron a DS3502 which has a 10uMAX case. 3mm case, 10 pin, 0.5mm pitch. Had a 70x optical zoom digital output though.
@@srmofoable Looking at it now, I was just wrong. The STM32 and MSOP-10 chips that give me fits have 0.25mm width pins, with the same spacing ... so yes, 0.5mm pitch. All I have is an optical loupe and magnifier glasses. Your DS3502 looks like an MSOP-10. I have little 0.1" PCB adapter plates for that kind of thing.
No he's not. 40x microscopes are used in schools for observing cells. If this was 280x or whatever they claim he could see the bacteria on the PCB. Instead the camera can't even fill the screen with a resistor. No way that's more than 20x
@@alejandroperez5368 Have you ever used a real microscope? Here are is video showing some microscope videos from 30x to 1000x, it might educate you. ruclips.net/video/qaElp0M3NZw/видео.html
@@westsenkovec I just put a scale under mine (in photo mode, not video mode). It was as far down as it can go and still focus. About 1.9 millimeters on that scale fills the screen horizontally. That screen is about 190mm wide so that is about 100X. Don't know where the 260X comes from.
Hi and thank you. I'm looking at this camera to be examining metal surface with holes of 0.4 mm .will this microscope have enough power to evaluate this tiny hole machining quality ?
I'm thinking of buying this scope but keep reading reviews online that it is not suited for anything but small pcb's. We work with Android Head Unit pcb's a lot and it seems that the distance between the rod and the camera is way to narrow. What is your experience? PCB's are generally 120x 60 mm or 120x120 mm
Did yours come with the battery? Mine came without and after putting the battery in, nothing happens. Did you have to do anything to make it work with the battery?
Do you know of any reliable 18650 charger schematics using basic components that can easily be found? I’ve already got a schematic for one that uses LM358N, not entirely sure or trusting of it though, I’ve tested it using a simulator site but I’m not entirely sure if it will really work :/
does it have a stand or is it one of those handheld jobs? if it is handheld I wonder if you could rig up a stand or find some stl files to 3d print one I was looking for something like this that has better optics but lets you use your won android device as a screen or is at least cheaper , but not the handheld units with no screen or stand
Nice review! So you decided to replace the 18650 cells inside your Makita battery and found out that it also needs a new PCB to be accepted by the original charger again ? Makita bastards trying to outsmart the caveman.... GGGRRRRRR..... Please be aware, those boards are great to trick the charger to accept the battery again but the board doesn't balance the cells. I made a small 5pin JST connector on the 4S Makita (14.4V) battery to balance them using a Turnigy Lion charger, that way I keep the cells in good shape. Thanks for the video !!
Funny how everyone missis the point of low magnification, i find just a little mag is what i will be usinging 98% of the time, so what does everyone talk about. max mag. sorry but this review is a thumbs down.
I have exactly the same model and would actually say that it IS very sharp and clear. Certainly not up to professional standards, but surprisingly good. Way more than enough for most uses. Thanks for reminding me that there is a battery compartment! I have been using it plugged into a 5V powerbank, but an 18650 would probably come in quite hand in many situations. The only problem I have had with it was trying to get the ring at the base of the vertical loosened up so I could rotate the whole unit and horizontal support around the vertical support. Had to go to the garage and use some pretty big pliers and a vise to do that. I definitely do recommend it for any home use and think it would serve quite well in a lot of school or business situations as well as long as it is front lit will do.
hi, is it heavy duty?
@@recommendedforyou157 Just 2 pounds 10 ounces, or 1.2 Kg.
Ooops, sorry I missed the 'duty'. But that weight may tell you something. If you treat it with a reasonable amount of respect it will last a long time. If you pound nails with it, it won't. As I said, it could be used in schools or labs with no trouble as long as the user is not ham fisted. Much like a normal microscope.
@@gkseifert thank you sir
Is there enough room between base and camera to get circuit board, soldering iron etc ?
The ladybug shot was really cool!
The claimed 260X zoom is clearly an exaggeration. On the provided (1280 X 800) monitor, it looks to be perhaps 50 or 60X max. On a 24” HD (1080) screen, you might get around 100X before losing detail. I wish these companies would list magnification accurately. As you pointed out, the magnification of this model is far more than adequate for almost any soldering work, so long as the board or other work will fit on the stage. But if you want to observe, say, microscopic life, 260X might get you close. But this and many other scopes now on the market mislead shoppers. The claimed 260X would be enough for many, say, student needs, but the actual performance would be unacceptable for those purposes. Like lumens for flashlights, you can’t trust the claims for too many of these products. There are some reputable companies that, as yet, don’t seem to lie (AmScope, Leica, and a few others for microscopes, for example) but it’s very difficult for people to know what they can trust.
Great, helpful review.
To get a broader viewing area, mount the scope on the end ring below the focus ring, I run mine like that all the time.
I’ve reviewed a couple of different Andonstar microscopes and I have been happy with them both.
Yeah I've done the same, thanks for the tip Scott :)
I did it. Great tip. Thanks mate.
Were you given this device, or did you pay for it with your own money?
The exact model is also sold cheaper as Tomlov DM10 , Elikliv EDM10 etc.. The only difference is the sticker and $40 less in price.
* I didn't know that until after I got the AD208. Even the brown box is the same.
Also MOYSUWE MDM10.
What are you talking about? Tomlov DM10 isn't available at the official store. It costs 150 euros at some sketchy aliexpress store, while Andonstar AD208 is 100 euros.
@@alejandroperez5368 that was a year ago. the AD208 is still $150US . It doesn't matter They're all the exact same unit with different branding stickers.
For electronic rework/soldering, you only need 10x-40x magnification... are there any USB based microscopes, true 4k/optical-zoom that you'd recommend?
For example, one that can output video
1) wirelessly to a android/monitor receiver (Miracast/Wireless-HDMI)
2) Wired USB to latptop/tablet device
3) Wired HDMI
Dual-lens for seeing depth.. and a large Field-of-View would also be nice. Unfortunately, the ones I've seen are very expensive, presumably because they have way too much zoom (130x-180x lens), or come with their own 10" display, or gimic features like remote-control, etc.
I have the MOYSUWE version (exactly the same, except with a crappy wireless remote which has a bad habit of skipping items in the menus - lots of trial and error to select the right line...). One thing that bugs me is the battery icon at the bottom right of the screen that constantly flashes. Anyone know why? Does it ever stop blinking? Also, anyone know what the third LED on the back (the one right next to the SD card slot) is for? (The first, red, is to indicate when the device is plugged in; the second, blue, is to indicate when the device is turned on.) Thank you!
Incase it's not obvious, you must supply your own USB charger plug. It's not included with the 'scope.
I just ordered one this weekend. Can't wait for it to arrive. I've got some 0405 components to solder.
is this actually good for soldering
I was considering getting one for soldering but then I saw another review that says the lack of depth perception makes it harder than a binocular scope , not sure how much an entry level binocular scope for soldering would cost or if is worth it to go the binocular route
looking to do console repair and modifications as well as some arduino stuff
@@andreamitchell4758 it works for me. Stereo vision is always going to be better, and cost more.
I think the only challenge I experience is the small stand space. For console repairs you'd probably struggle to position the board under the camera well enough to view areas more than 3-4 inches in from the edge of the board, unless you made your own stand, which negates the price advantage of buying this type of scope.
If you're in for the long haul and can justify the spend, a binocular scope would be a way better choice in that you can typically add polarising filters, better lighting and have more functional mounting, without having to pay twice. The age old wisdom of spend well, spend once.
If you're just getting started and need to be sure you will do this a lot, then this might be an option for "testing the waters".
Hello! What item can you recommend to buy Andonstar AD207 or AD208? What is better? Why is AD208 cheaper than AD207? Thank you very much!
Your ads are funny, nice job!
I have a similar scope but it doesn't have the toothed rail up the leg which gives better stability. I need that.
Can see how one of these could be useful mounting those nightmarish 0.1mm pitch ICs.
Not sure what you are working with with a pitch that tight but I have managed to hand solder with an iron a DS3502 which has a 10uMAX case. 3mm case, 10 pin, 0.5mm pitch. Had a 70x optical zoom digital output though.
@@srmofoable Looking at it now, I was just wrong. The STM32 and MSOP-10 chips that give me fits have 0.25mm width pins, with the same spacing ... so yes, 0.5mm pitch. All I have is an optical loupe and magnifier glasses. Your DS3502 looks like an MSOP-10. I have little 0.1" PCB adapter plates for that kind of thing.
Ha, never noticed the 18650 slot... thanks! :)
Thank you very much for your review. It may me decide what model fits best for me. I choose this one. Thank you.
Would you recommend this for bending back pins on motherboard?
Just bought one with your link cheers mate
Thanks for the review.
Your add was funny. Thanks for that and thank you for the video. :)
This was great! Thanks for creating and sharing. :)
Great review. Very informative
Is it still a good deal in mid-2023?
Is there scale bar option in software for captured images ? Calibration scale
Thanks, what is the picture delay on the screen with your experience?
There is a slight delay however I didn't find it a problem. I only noticed it when making quick movement
Does Andonstar have a longer optional raise
& lower rod? That looks like a great 'scope! Do you have a review on the AD249? Thank you 🤓
Looks nice for electronics work but the magnification is at tops 10x, which is also all what you need for electronics work.
No, 10x magnification is nothing, it's what some beauty mirrors have...you're definitely wrong.
No he's not. 40x microscopes are used in schools for observing cells. If this was 280x or whatever they claim he could see the bacteria on the PCB. Instead the camera can't even fill the screen with a resistor. No way that's more than 20x
@@westsenkovec you're wrong too.
@@alejandroperez5368 Have you ever used a real microscope? Here are is video showing some microscope videos from 30x to 1000x, it might educate you.
ruclips.net/video/qaElp0M3NZw/видео.html
@@westsenkovec I just put a scale under mine (in photo mode, not video mode). It was as far down as it can go and still focus. About 1.9 millimeters on that scale fills the screen horizontally. That screen is about 190mm wide so that is about 100X. Don't know where the 260X comes from.
Hi and thank you. I'm looking at this camera to be examining metal surface with holes of 0.4 mm .will this microscope have enough power to evaluate this tiny hole machining quality ?
Excellent video !!! 🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄😎😎
What is the size of the lens circumference for choosing the purchase of protective glass?
On your older video of the electromagnet . . . .Was your power supply at 12v 8.8 amps a Switching or Linear? Thanks
Awesome video, thanks
You said to give this scope a pass if you are looking for high quality images, what would you recommend?
I'm thinking of buying this scope but keep reading reviews online that it is not suited for anything but small pcb's. We work with Android Head Unit pcb's a lot and it seems that the distance between the rod and the camera is way to narrow. What is your experience? PCB's are generally 120x 60 mm or 120x120 mm
Did yours come with the battery? Mine came without and after putting the battery in, nothing happens. Did you have to do anything to make it work with the battery?
Great Show
Do you know of any reliable 18650 charger schematics using basic components that can easily be found? I’ve already got a schematic for one that uses LM358N, not entirely sure or trusting of it though, I’ve tested it using a simulator site but I’m not entirely sure if it will really work :/
I use a simular scope. its without a screen. so I use it with my tablet. works great :)
does it have a stand or is it one of those handheld jobs?
if it is handheld I wonder if you could rig up a stand or find some stl files to 3d print one
I was looking for something like this that has better optics but lets you use your won android device as a screen or is at least cheaper , but not the handheld units with no screen or stand
what is the difference with the "S" after the model name?
S model has a remote control
Nice review. Thanks. Did you threaten to eat the ladybug?
Super device......I've got one.. many thanks ...
Nice review!
So you decided to replace the 18650 cells inside your Makita battery and found out that it also needs a new PCB to be accepted by the original charger again ?
Makita bastards trying to outsmart the caveman.... GGGRRRRRR.....
Please be aware, those boards are great to trick the charger to accept the battery again but the board doesn't balance the cells.
I made a small 5pin JST connector on the 4S Makita (14.4V) battery to balance them using a Turnigy Lion charger, that way I keep the cells in good shape.
Thanks for the video !!
thank you!
I like the video except the caveman in AD
Thank you
شكرا
😳🌹💞
Funny how everyone missis the point of low magnification, i find just a little mag is what i will be usinging 98% of the time, so what does everyone talk about. max mag. sorry but this review is a thumbs down.